W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve
The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it.
Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
- Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle
- Washer fills much more slowly than normal
- Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for
- Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles
- F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel
- Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
- No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum
- Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091
W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series
- Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models)
- KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models)
- Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models)
- Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0.
Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
- Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
- Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure
- Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes
- Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve
- Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710
- Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers
- Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
- Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes
Product Specifications
| Part Number |
W10599356 |
| Part Type |
Washer Water Inlet Valve |
| Condition |
Genuine OEM |
| Application |
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) |
| Actuation |
Solenoid-operated |
| Connections |
Hot and cold water supply inlets |
| Supersedes |
W10509710 |
| Repair Difficulty |
Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes |
| Quantity |
1 valve |
| Compatible Brands |
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore |
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad?
It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause.
Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve?
Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting.
Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve?
Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair.
Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there?
It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
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