XPARTCO W11688994 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot)
The XPARTCO W11688994 is an aftermarket replacement hot water inlet valve compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The hot water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the hot water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for hot water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting hot water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with hot water at all, fill very slowly with hot water, fail to deliver hot or warm wash temperatures (even when selected), continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display fill-related error codes. Construction is red and white plastic with a metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688994, W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, and AP7218602. Often replaced as a pair with the cold water inlet valve (W11688995, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688994 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers that aren't filling with hot water, fill slowly with hot water, can't reach hot or warm wash temperatures, or have continuous water dripping into the tub when off. Red/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, AP7218602. Often paired with the cold water valve (W11688995, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
- Washer not filling with hot water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
- Washer filling slowly with hot water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
- No hot or warm water in selected wash temperatures — only cold water flowing in
- Hot wash cycle running cool — hot valve not delivering normal flow
- Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — hot valve stuck open or not fully closing
- Water leaks at the hot valve body — internal seal failure
- Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow hot fill
- Fill-related error codes when hot fill is required by the selected cycle
Replaces Part Numbers
This hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688994, W11316255, W11036928, W11486360, 4983330, AP7218602, AWP46795, EAP17216729, FIX17216729, OEM21655815, PD00085626, PS17216729.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
- Whirlpool front-load washers — 7MWFC9822HC1, 8TWFC6810LW0, WFC682CLW0, WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
- Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
- Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0-HC3, MHW5630HW0-HW3, MHW6630HC0-HC3, MHW6630HW0-HW3, MHW8630HC0-HC4, MHW8630HW0-HW4 series
- Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1, NFW5800HW2, NFW5800HW3, NFW5800HW4 and related models
- Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4 and related models
- KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
- Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the hot water inlet valve (typically red). The matching cold water inlet valve is part number W11688995 (typically blue). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
- Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
- Controls the flow of hot water into the washer during fill cycles
- Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for hot water and closes the moment the call is dropped
- 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
- Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
- Red and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — heat-resistant construction designed for hot water cycle pressure and temperature
- Replaces W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, AP7218602, and PD00085626
- Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
- Often replaced together with the cold water inlet valve (W11688995, sold separately) as a paired repair
- Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
| Part Number |
XPW11688994 |
| Part Type |
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot) |
| Condition |
Aftermarket Replacement |
| Application |
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform) |
| Water Type |
Hot (paired cold valve is W11688995) |
| Inlet Thread |
1/2" NPT |
| Dimensions |
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L |
| Color |
Red / White |
| Material |
Plastic / Metal (heat-resistant) |
| Often Paired With |
Cold Water Inlet Valve (W11688995, sold separately) |
| Compatible Brands |
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore |
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Important: if the washer has just been running a hot cycle, allow the hot supply hose and valve to cool before handling — hot water can scald. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the hot valve is typically red. Disconnect the hot water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688994 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the hot supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle on a hot or warm setting to confirm normal hot water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the cold water valve (W11688995) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer isn't filling with hot water — is the hot valve the problem?
Likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed hot water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the hot water supply at the wall is turned on and your home actually has hot water at that connection (test the faucet nearby); 2) check the supply hose for kinks or pinches; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the back of the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean, but the washer still won't get hot water, the W11688994 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue.
My washer fills but my hot wash isn't actually hot — could it still be this valve?
Yes — when the hot inlet valve is partially failed (opening but not fully, or opening only briefly), the washer may complete its fill cycle by drawing extra cold water to compensate, but the resulting mix is much cooler than the selected wash temperature should be. If you've confirmed your home's hot water is hot, the supply hose is good, and you're still ending up with lukewarm "hot" washes, the hot valve is a likely cause. Replacing it restores proper hot water delivery and accurate wash temperatures.
Should I replace the cold water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The hot and cold inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching cold water valve is part number W11688995 (blue, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — could the hot valve be the cause?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the cold water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the cold valve is at fault; if it continues, this hot valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688994 will resolve a leaking hot valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688994 hot water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers.
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