XPARTCO BPV-31 Refrigerator Refrigerant Piercing Valve / Line Tap Valve Kit
The XPARTCO BPV-31 is a universal bullet piercing tap valve (line tap valve) used to quickly access a sealed refrigerant line on refrigerators, freezers, window air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and other HVAC systems — without soldering or brazing. The valve clamps around a copper refrigerant line and, when the valve stem is tightened with the included hex key, a hardened piercing needle punctures the tubing to create an access port. This lets a technician connect a charging hose or gauge to check pressure, pull a vacuum, or add refrigerant to a system that has no factory service port. It's a staple tool for appliance service and DIY refrigerator/freezer repair.
Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes with the included adapters. The access port connection is a 1/4" male flare fitting. Rated to 500 PSI maximum, with a patented permanent gasket providing over 180 inch-lbs of sealing force — around 50 times the sealing area of a standard O-ring type valve — pressure tested at 250°F. Corrosion-resistant metal (zinc alloy) construction with a piercing needle engineered for concentricity and hardness to seat perfectly every time. Non-positional mounting requires no separate adapter valve and only 2" of clearance for installation. Each kit includes the piercing valve, a hex key wrench, and 2 adapters. It replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO BPV-31 Refrigerant Piercing Valve Kit taps into a sealed copper refrigerant line to add refrigerant, check pressure, or pull a vacuum — no soldering required. Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" OD pipes. 1/4" male flare port connection. 500 PSI max, patented gasket (50x the sealing area of an O-ring). Zinc alloy metal. Includes piercing valve, hex key, and 2 adapters; only needs 2" clearance. Replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, MPV31. Not suitable for R410a systems.
Common Uses This Kit Serves
Adding refrigerant to a refrigerator or freezer that has no factory service port
Checking system pressure on a sealed refrigerant line for diagnostics
Pulling a vacuum on a system during service
Recharging window air conditioners and dehumidifiers
Confirming whether a sealed system has lost its refrigerant charge (leak diagnosis)
Providing temporary or service access to copper refrigerant tubing without brazing
Reviving a garage/shop refrigerator or freezer that has slowly lost its charge
Accessing R-12, R-22, R-134a, and other compatible refrigerant systems (NOT R410a)
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This bullet piercing tap valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
BPV-31, BPV31, BPV31D, AP4502525, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, MPV31
The BPV-31 is a universal valve that covers the GPV-series (GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56) and MPV31 across the pipe sizes they individually served. Contact our support team if you need help confirming the correct valve for your line size.
Compatibility
This bullet piercing valve is a universal tool compatible with sealed refrigerant systems using copper tubing, including:
Refrigerators and freezers — all major brands with 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" OD copper refrigerant lines
Window air conditioners — for recharging and pressure checks
Dehumidifiers — sealed refrigerant systems
Other HVAC systems with compatible copper line sizes
Refrigerant compatibility — works with R-12, R-22, R-134a and other common refrigerants
Important — NOT for R410a Systems: This BPV-31 piercing valve is NOT rated for R410a refrigerant systems, which operate at significantly higher pressures than the valve's design allows. Using it on an R410a system is unsafe. Before use, confirm your line's outside diameter (1/4", 5/16", or 3/8") and select the correct included adapter. Verify the pipe size before installation.
Key Features
Bullet piercing tap valve — taps a sealed copper refrigerant line to create an access port without soldering or brazing
Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes (with included adapters)
1/4" male flare access port connection for charging hoses and gauges
500 PSI maximum pressure rating
Patented permanent gasket — over 180 inch-lbs of sealing force, ~50 times the sealing area of a standard O-ring type valve; pressure tested at 250°F
Piercing needle engineered for concentricity and hardness to seat perfectly every time
Corrosion-resistant zinc alloy metal construction — won't rust or wear out over time
Non-positional mounting — no separate adapter valve required, installs in any orientation
Compact design needs only 2" of clearance for installation and use
Each kit includes: 1 piercing valve, 1 hex key wrench, 2 adapters
Replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31
NOT suitable for R410a refrigerant systems
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPBPV-31
Part Type
Bullet Piercing Tap Valve (Line Tap Valve Kit)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerators, Freezers, Window AC, Dehumidifiers, HVAC (sealed copper lines)
Compatible Pipe Sizes
1/4", 5/16", 3/8" outside diameter
Port Connection
1/4" Male Flare
Maximum Pressure
500 PSI
Sealing Force
180+ inch-lbs (patented gasket, ~50x O-ring sealing area)
Pressure Tested
250°F
Material
Corrosion-resistant zinc alloy metal
Mounting
Non-positional, 2" clearance required
Kit Includes
1x Piercing Valve, 1x Hex Key, 2x Adapters
Not Compatible With
R410a refrigerant systems
Installation Notes
⚠️ Refrigerant Safety Warning Working with sealed refrigerant systems can expose you to pressurized refrigerant, which can cause frostbite, eye injury, and other harm. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves before piercing any line. Refrigerant handling may be regulated in your area — certain refrigerants require EPA certification (in the US) to purchase and handle. Never vent refrigerant to the atmosphere. This valve is NOT rated for R410a systems (too high pressure). If you're not experienced with refrigerant systems, have this work done by a qualified HVAC or appliance technician.
⚠️ Installation Steps — Clean the Line First Put on safety glasses and protective gloves. Identify the copper line you want to tap and confirm its outside diameter (1/4", 5/16", or 3/8") so you can select the correct included adapter. Clean the section of pipe where the valve will mount to prevent debris from entering the refrigerant line. Ensure the composite seal "O" ring/gasket is properly in place inside the valve. Place the two halves of the valve saddle around the pipe using the appropriate adapter insert for your pipe size. Install and evenly tighten the socket-head screws to clamp the valve body firmly around the pipe. To pierce the line, turn the valve stem clockwise with the included hex key until the needle punctures the tubing, then back the stem out (counterclockwise) to open the port and allow flow. To connect a gauge or charging hose: remove the cap, attach your hose to the 1/4" flare port, and open the valve by turning the stem counterclockwise. When finished, close the valve (turn the stem clockwise) BEFORE disconnecting the hose, then reinstall the protective cap. Note: the compact valve needs only 2" of clearance around the pipe. Tools needed: Included hex key wrench, safety glasses, protective gloves. (Note: to attach a gauge directly to the BPV, a retrofit valve adapter may be required — not included.)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a bullet piercing valve used for?
A bullet piercing valve (line tap valve) lets you tap into a sealed copper refrigerant line to create an access port — without cutting, soldering, or brazing the line. Most household refrigerators and freezers are sealed systems with no factory service port, so if you need to check the refrigerant pressure, pull a vacuum, or add refrigerant, a piercing valve gives you that access quickly. It clamps around the pipe, and a needle pierces the tubing when you tighten the valve stem. It's commonly used in appliance repair and HVAC service, and by DIYers reviving a garage refrigerator or freezer that has lost its charge.
Which pipe sizes does this fit?
The BPV-31 fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes using the included adapters. Before installing, measure or confirm your refrigerant line's outside diameter and select the matching adapter insert. Getting the size right is essential for a proper seal — an incorrectly sized adapter won't clamp tightly and can leak. If you're not sure of your line size, measure the outside diameter of the copper tubing with calipers or a pipe gauge.
Can I use this on an R410a system?
No — the BPV-31 is NOT rated for R410a refrigerant systems. R410a operates at significantly higher pressures than older refrigerants like R-12, R-22, and R-134a, and exceeds the safe working pressure of this valve (500 PSI max). Using it on an R410a system is unsafe and could result in valve failure or refrigerant release. This valve is appropriate for lower-pressure systems using R-12, R-22, R-134a, and similar refrigerants. For R410a systems, use service equipment specifically rated for R410a pressures.
Is a piercing valve a permanent solution?
Piercing valves are best thought of as a service-access tool rather than a permanent fixture. They work reliably for tapping into a line to diagnose, vacuum, or charge a system, and the BPV-31's patented gasket provides a much stronger seal than basic O-ring valves. However, for a long-term permanent service port, many technicians prefer to cut the line and braze in a proper Schrader service port. Some technicians have concerns about the very long-term sealing of any piercing valve left permanently on a line. If you leave the valve installed, make sure the stem is closed and the cap is in place, and check periodically for leaks.
Do I need EPA certification to add refrigerant?
In the United States, handling many refrigerants (and purchasing them) requires EPA Section 608 certification, and it is illegal to intentionally vent refrigerant to the atmosphere. Regulations vary by refrigerant type and jurisdiction. The piercing valve itself is a tool that anyone can install, but the refrigerant handling that follows may be regulated. If you're a DIYer, research the rules that apply to your specific refrigerant and location, or have the refrigerant work done by a certified technician. Always recover refrigerant properly rather than venting it.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket universal service tool built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. The BPV-31 is a universal industry-standard bullet piercing valve design (also sold as Supco BPV31 and equivalent), manufactured from corrosion-resistant zinc alloy to match the fit, 1/4"/5/16"/3/8" pipe compatibility, 1/4" flare port, 500 PSI rating, and patented-style sealing gasket of the standard BPV-31 line tap valve. It replaces AP4502525, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor
The WR60X10209 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement DC condenser fan motor compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators in the GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE, and related series. The condenser fan motor is located near the compressor at the rear bottom of the refrigerator. It circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the hot refrigerant before it returns to the evaporator — this is an essential step in the refrigeration cycle. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and condenser coils, causing the refrigerator to run continuously, cool inefficiently, or trip the compressor's thermal overload protection.
This Genuine OEM part is manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is a DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W with a 4-pin plastic connector and four color-coded wires (white, blue, red, and yellow). It directly replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, WR60X10209-24PK, 1195784, AP4265957, AH1483567, EA1483567, and PS1483567. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor fixes GE refrigerators that are not cooling properly, running continuously, making unusual noise from the back, or where the compressor is overheating. 11.3V DC, 2.2W, 4-pin connector (white/blue/red/yellow wires). Genuine OEM. Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, AP4265957, PS1483567. Compatible with GE GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE series and Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator not cooling properly — condenser fan not circulating air across coils
Refrigerator running continuously without reaching set temperature
Compressor overheating — heat not being dissipated from condenser area
Unusual noise or grinding from the back or bottom of the refrigerator
Condenser fan motor visibly not spinning when compressor is running
Refrigerator cycling off frequently on thermal overload protection
Food spoilage — refrigerator unable to maintain safe temperatures
Replaces Part Numbers
This condenser fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR60X10209, 1195784, WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, 045900390950, 197D2407P013, AGE29194, AH1483567, EA1483567, EAP1483567, AP4265957, PD00001176, PS1483567.
Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This condenser fan motor is compatible with a wide range of refrigerators from the following GE product lines:
GE refrigerators — GSS series (GSS22, GSS23, GSS25, GSS26 and related side-by-side models)
GE refrigerators — GSL series (GSL22, GSL25 and related models)
GE refrigerators — GCE series (GCE21, GCE23 and related models)
GE refrigerators — PCE and PSS series (PCE23, PSS25, PSS26 and related Profile models)
GE refrigerators — PSC series (PSC23, PSC25 and related Profile models)
GE Monogram refrigerators — ZIS, ZISB series (select models)
GE Café refrigerators (select models)
Hotpoint refrigerators — HSS series (HSS22, HSS25 and related models)
RCA refrigerators (select GE-built models)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select GE-built models)
Haier refrigerators (select GE-platform models)
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the refrigerant and maintain efficient refrigeration cycle operation
DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W — runs on DC voltage supplied by the refrigerator's control board
4-pin plastic connector with color-coded wires (white, blue, red, yellow) — direct plug-in installation on compatible models
Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, and AP4265957
Compatible with GE GSS/GSL/GCE/PCE/PSS/PSC, Hotpoint HSS, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café, and RCA refrigerators
DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR60X10209
Part Type
Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Refrigerators (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer)
Voltage
11.3V DC
Wattage
2.2W
Connector
4-pin plastic plug
Wire Colors
White, Blue, Red, Yellow
Location
Near compressor at rear bottom of refrigerator
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator before beginning. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear lower back panel. Remove the screws securing the back panel to expose the compressor, condenser coils, and condenser fan assembly. The condenser fan motor is mounted on a bracket near the compressor with the fan blade facing the condenser coil. Take a photo of the wire connector orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the 4-pin wire connector from the motor. Remove the mounting screws securing the motor to the bracket and slide the old motor out. Note the orientation of the fan blade on the motor shaft — the blade must be reinstalled in the same direction on the new motor (or transferred from the old motor if the new motor does not include a blade). Install the new WR60X10209 motor, reconnect the wire connector, reinstall the back panel, restore power, and confirm the condenser fan spins when the compressor starts. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the condenser fan motor do in a refrigerator?
The condenser fan motor drives a fan blade that circulates ambient air across the condenser coils at the rear of the refrigerator. The condenser coils carry hot high-pressure refrigerant that has just been compressed — the fan removes heat from the refrigerant so it can cool, condense, and return to the evaporator to absorb heat from inside the refrigerator. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and coils, causing the refrigerator to lose cooling efficiency, run continuously, or — in severe cases — trip the compressor's thermal overload and shut down entirely.
Why does this motor use DC voltage instead of AC?
Modern GE refrigerators use DC motors for the condenser fan because they are more energy-efficient, quieter, and easier to speed-control by the refrigerator's electronic control board than traditional AC motors. The refrigerator's main control board converts household 120V AC power to 11.3V DC to supply the condenser fan motor. This DC motor runs at a variable speed under board control, which allows GE's refrigerators to optimize fan speed based on cooling demand.
How do I confirm the condenser fan motor has failed?
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug it, and remove the rear lower panel. Spin the condenser fan blade by hand — if it is stiff, wobbles, or seizes, the motor bearing has failed. If the blade spins freely but the motor does not run when the refrigerator is plugged in and the compressor starts, check for DC voltage at the motor connector using a multimeter. If the board is supplying approximately 11–12V DC to the motor but the motor is not running, the motor has failed electrically. If no voltage is present, the control board may not be supplying power — a less common but possible failure mode.
Does this motor come with the fan blade?
The WR60X10209 is the motor only — the fan blade is typically not included and should be transferred from the old motor. When removing the old motor, carefully pull the fan blade off the motor shaft (it presses on — no hardware is typically needed). Press the blade onto the new motor shaft in the same orientation. If the fan blade is cracked or damaged, it should be replaced separately. Installing the blade in the wrong direction will reverse the airflow direction and reduce cooling efficiency.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same DC condenser fan motor installed in compatible GE, Hotpoint, and related brand refrigerators from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W10316760 Refrigerator Thermistor Sensor
The XPARTCO W10316760 is an aftermarket replacement temperature thermistor compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool-built refrigerators sold under the Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef brands. The thermistor sits inside the fresh food or freezer compartment and continuously reports internal temperature back to the electronic control board, which uses that reading to cycle the compressor, evaporator fan, and damper to keep the compartment in range. When the thermistor drifts out of calibration or fails outright, the control board loses an accurate temperature signal and the refrigerator commonly responds with erratic cooling, a warmer-than-normal compartment, food freezing when it shouldn't, or a flashing/blank temperature display.
This XPARTCO version is built with a quick-connect mounting clip, so it plugs in without cutting or splicing wires — unlike the genuine Whirlpool OEM part, which ships as a splice-in kit requiring you to cut the old thermistor's leads and join the new ones with included wire connectors. It directly replaces W10316760, WPW10323459, W10323459, 12791417, 12791417SP, 12791419SP, 1876627, W10280385, W10280386, W10308052, W10316760VP, W10438639, W10438761, W10452402, AH2580944, AP4538142, AWP40532, EA2580944, EAP2580944, PD00006590, PS2580944, and additional cross-reference numbers listed below. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10316760 Refrigerator Thermistor Sensor fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef refrigerators that are running warm, running constantly, freezing food unexpectedly, or showing a flashing/blank temperature display. This version uses a quick-connect clip — no wire cutting or splicing like the genuine Whirlpool splice-kit version requires. Replaces W10316760, WPW10323459, W10323459, 12791417, 12791417SP, 12791419SP, 1876627, W10280385, W10280386, W10308052, W10316760VP, W10438639, W10438761, W10452402, AH2580944, AP4538142, AWP40532, EA2580944, EAP2580944, PD00006590, PS2580944. Classic symptom: fridge or freezer running warmer than the setting, or running nonstop.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator or freezer running noticeably warmer than the temperature setting
Fridge running constantly and never cycling off
Temperature display flashing, showing dashes, or displaying an error code
Food freezing in the fresh food compartment when it shouldn't be
Compressor and fans not cycling normally, or running nonstop
Inconsistent or swinging temperature readings on the display
One compartment (fridge or freezer) running warm while the other stays normal
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator thermistor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10316760, WPW10323459, W10323459, 12791417, 12791417SP, 12791419SP, 1876627, W10280385, W10280386, W10308052, W10316760VP, W10438639, W10438761, W10452402, AH2580944, AP4538142, AWP40532, EA2580944, EAP2580944, PD00006590, PS2580944
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This thermistor is used across a wide range of Whirlpool-built refrigerators from the following brands:
Whirlpool refrigerators (including WRF535SMBM00, WRX735SDBM00, and related French door / side-by-side models)
KitchenAid refrigerators (including KBFS22EWBL1, KBFS22EWMS1, KBFS22EWMS3, KBFS22EWMS5, KBFS22EWMS7, KBFS22EWWH1)
Maytag refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models, including KRFF302ESS)
Jenn-Air refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models, including MFI2269VEM)
Amana refrigerators (select models)
Inglis refrigerators (select models)
Magic Chef refrigerators (select models)
Note: Many of these refrigerators use separate thermistors for the fresh food and freezer compartments, so confirm which sensor location your model uses before ordering — appearance can be similar across positions. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Direct-fit replacement refrigerator temperature thermistor — reports compartment temperature to the electronic control board
Resolves "running warm," "running constantly," "freezing food," and "flashing display" symptoms caused by thermistor failure
Quick-connect mounting clip — no wire cutting or splicing required
Matches OEM electrical resistance curve for accurate temperature sensing
Approximate lead length ~5 inches
Replaces W10316760, WPW10323459, W10323459, 12791417, 12791417SP, 12791419SP, 1876627, W10280385, W10280386, W10308052, W10316760VP, W10438639, W10438761, W10452402, AH2580944, AP4538142, AWP40532, EA2580944, EAP2580944, PD00006590, PS2580944, and additional cross-reference numbers
Compatible with Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef refrigerators
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW10316760
OEM Part Number
W10316760
Part Type
Refrigerator Temperature Thermistor / Sensor
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Whirlpool-Built Refrigerators (Fresh Food / Freezer Compartment)
Mounting
Quick-connect clip (no splicing)
Approx. Lead Length
~5 inches (may vary by model)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, Magic Chef
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator or shut off power at the breaker before accessing internal panels. Locate the thermistor at its mounting position inside the fresh food or freezer compartment (location varies by model — consult your model's parts diagram if unsure). Photograph the wire routing before disconnecting. On this XPARTCO version, simply unplug the old thermistor's connector from the wiring harness — no cutting or splicing needed. Release the old thermistor from its mounting clip or bracket and remove it. Install the new thermistor in the same position, securing it in its mounting clip. Plug the new thermistor's connector into the wiring harness, matching your photos. Reassemble any panels removed for access. Restore power and allow the refrigerator several hours to stabilize before checking temperatures. Tools needed: nut driver or screwdriver (for panel access), needle-nose pliers (for mounting clip).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this the same as the genuine Whirlpool W10316760 thermistor?
It's a direct-fit aftermarket equivalent, not the genuine Whirlpool part. The key functional difference is installation: the genuine OEM version ships as a splice-in kit requiring you to cut the old wires and use included splice connectors, while this XPARTCO version has a quick-connect clip that simply plugs in — no splicing tools needed.
Will this fit my refrigerator?
W10316760 and its cross-reference numbers span a wide range of Whirlpool-built models across several brands. Confirm fit using your refrigerator's exact model number before ordering, since visually similar thermistors are used across different platforms and compartment locations. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
My fridge is warm but the freezer is fine (or vice versa) — could this part be the cause?
Yes. Most of these refrigerators use separate thermistors for the fresh food and freezer compartments, so a single failed sensor can cause one section to run warm while the other stays normal. Confirm which sensor location your model uses before ordering.
Do I need any tools to install this?
Basic hand tools to access the interior panel (typically a nut driver or screwdriver) plus needle-nose pliers to release the old mounting clip. Because this version uses a plug-style connector, no wire strippers, cutters, or splice connectors are needed — unlike the genuine OEM splice-kit version.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical resistance curve, mounting position, and temperature-sensing function of the original W10316760 thermistor used in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef refrigerators.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
Choice 240597203 Refrigerator Temperature Sensor Replaces 240597220
The Choice 240597203 is an aftermarket replacement refrigerator temperature sensor compatible with a wide range of Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore (253/106/795 prefix), Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, and Ikea refrigerators and household freezers. This NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor continuously monitors the temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer compartment and sends resistance-based readings to the main control board, which uses this data to cycle the compressor, fans, and defrost heaters to maintain accurate temperatures. As the thermistor heats up or cools down, its electrical resistance changes predictably, allowing the control board to calculate the exact temperature in real time.
When this sensor fails or drifts out of range, the refrigerator may run too cold or too warm, cycle excessively, freeze up the evaporator, fail to maintain set temperatures, or display OP error codes. Rated 10K Ohm NTC, with a 5/16" diameter probe, 12" wire, and overall dimensions of 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H (sensor probe itself measures ~1-3/16"L x 5/16" diameter). Compatible with 20-28 cubic foot North American household refrigerators in French door, side-by-side, top-freezer, and bottom-freezer configurations (post-2005 production). It directly replaces 240597203, 240597220, 240597201, 240597202, 7240597203, AP4032998, AH1765215, EA1765215, EAP1765215, EAP17647917, 1258948, 4985585, OEM21729470, PD00000590, PD00088922, PS1765215, and PS17647917. Not compatible with mini fridges, car refrigerators, commercial units, wine coolers, or ice makers. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The Choice 240597203 Refrigerator Temperature Sensor fixes Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, and Ikea refrigerators that run too cold or warm, cycle excessively, freeze up the evaporator, or display OP error codes. NTC thermistor — 10K Ohm at room temperature. 5/16" probe diameter, 12" wire. Overall 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H. Replaces 240597220, 240597201, 240597202, 7240597203, AP4032998, AH1765215, EA1765215, EAP1765215, EAP17647917, 1258948, 4985585, OEM21729470, PD00000590, PD00088922, PS1765215, PS17647917. For 20–28 cu ft household refrigerators built 2005 or later.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator running too cold or too warm — sensor not accurately reporting temperature
Inconsistent temperatures — fluctuating cooling that can't maintain set point
OP error code displayed on the control panel (open sensor circuit)
Excessive frost or ice buildup on evaporator coils from erratic defrost timing
Refrigerator running continuously without cycling off
Freezer over-freezing food or fresh food compartment freezing groceries
Food spoilage from temperature instability
Multimeter test shows 0 ohms (shorted), infinite resistance (open), or drifted resistance instead of the expected ~10K Ohms at room temperature
Replaces Part Numbers
This temperature sensor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
240597220, 240597203, 240597201, 240597202, 7240597203, 4985585, AFR15666, AP7243155, EAP17647917, OEM21729474, PD00088922, PS17647917.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This temperature sensor is compatible with select household refrigerators and freezers from the following brands (20–28 cu ft, built 2005 or later):
Frigidaire refrigerators — Gallery and Professional series, plus standard Frigidaire models (BFHS2611LM, BGHS2634KE, BGHS2634KP, BGHS2644KF, CRSH237LB, PRFG2383AF, PRFC2383AF, ERFG2393AS2, FRSS2323AS8, FFHB2740PP5A and many related models)
Frigidaire upright freezers — FFFH21F7QW, FGU19F6QWB and related models
Electrolux refrigerators — EI24RD65KS0, EI24RD65HS0, EI24RD65HS1, E24RD75KPS0 and related models
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators — 253-prefix, 106-prefix, and 795-prefix models (select Frigidaire/Electrolux-built units)
Crosley refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models)
White-Westinghouse refrigerators (select models)
Kelvinator refrigerators (select models)
Gibson refrigerators (select models)
Tappan refrigerators (select models)
Viking refrigerators (select Frigidaire-platform models)
Ikea refrigerators (select Frigidaire-platform models)
Not compatible with: mini fridges, car refrigerators, commercial refrigerators/freezers, wine coolers, or dedicated ice makers. Verify your refrigerator was produced after 2005 and check the original part number on the fridge nameplate matches one of the cross-references listed. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor — resistance changes predictably with temperature, allowing precise temperature monitoring
Rated 10K Ohms at room temperature (approximately 25°C / 77°F)
Sends real-time temperature data to the main control board to regulate compressor cycling, fan operation, and defrost timing
Sensor probe: 5/16" diameter x 1-3/16" length · Overall assembly: 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H · 12" wire lead
White plastic/metal construction with glossy finish
Resolves OP error codes when caused by an open sensor circuit
Compatible with 20–28 cu ft French door, side-by-side, top-freezer, and bottom-freezer refrigerators built 2005 or later
Replaces 18+ OEM and cross-reference part numbers including 240597220, 240597201, 240597202, AP4032998, AH1765215, PS1765215, PS17647917
Compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, Ikea
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
240597203CM
Part Type
Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Household Refrigerators and Freezers (Frigidaire/Electrolux platform, 20–28 cu ft, 2005+)
Sensor Type
NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient)
Resistance
10K Ohms at room temperature
Probe Dimensions
5/16" Diameter x 1-3/16" Length
Overall Dimensions
3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H
Wire Length
12"
Color
White
Finish
Glossy
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
OP (open sensor circuit)
Compatible Brands
Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, Ikea
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Depending on your refrigerator model, the fresh-food temperature sensor is typically located behind the air tower or damper assembly on the rear interior wall of the refrigerator compartment; the freezer temperature sensor is typically located behind the rear freezer access panel near the evaporator coils. Confirm which sensor location matches your symptom and the parts diagram for your specific model before starting. Remove all shelves, drawers, and any items blocking access to the sensor location. Remove the screws holding the air tower/damper cover (fresh food side) or rear freezer access panel to expose the sensor. Photograph the sensor position, wire routing, and connector before removing. Disconnect the wire connector (gently — the connector can be fragile) and release the sensor from its mounting clip. Fully insert the new 240597203 sensor probe into the card slot (no exposure) and secure with the mounting clip. Reconnect the wire connector — plug wiring terminals tightly to avoid poor contact. Use cable ties to secure any loose wire routing as before. Reinstall the cover or panel, replace the shelves and drawers, and plug the refrigerator back in. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, cable ties, multimeter (for testing), work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does OP error code mean on my Frigidaire refrigerator?
The OP error code (Open) indicates the control board is detecting an open circuit on a temperature sensor input — meaning the sensor is failing to send a resistance signal, either because the sensor itself has failed open internally, the wire has broken, or the connector isn't seated. Replacing the temperature sensor typically resolves the code when the sensor itself is the cause. If the code persists after replacement, check the wire harness between the sensor and the control board for damage, and confirm the connector is fully seated. If the OP code appears alongside other symptoms like frost buildup and cooling issues that persist after sensor replacement, the defrost temperature sensor (on the Harness-Low Side, a different part number) may also need to be replaced, or the main control board may be at fault.
How do I test if the temperature sensor has failed?
Unplug the refrigerator, disconnect the sensor's wire connector, and set your multimeter to resistance mode. At room temperature (approximately 25°C / 77°F), a working NTC thermistor should read approximately 10K Ohms. If the sensor reads 0 ohms, it has shorted internally. If it reads infinite resistance (open circuit, often shown as "OL" on the multimeter), the sensor has failed open. If it reads significantly off from 10K (for example 8.4K or 5K at room temp), the sensor has drifted and is no longer providing accurate readings — replacement is recommended. Any of these results confirms the sensor needs replacement.
My refrigerator has multiple temperature sensors — which one do I replace?
Frigidaire refrigerators typically use multiple temperature sensors: one in the fresh food compartment (behind the air tower/damper), one in the freezer compartment (near the evaporator coils), and often a separate defrost temperature sensor on the Harness-Low Side. The 240597203 is used as the fresh food or freezer compartment temperature sensor. If your symptom is "fresh food too warm" or "freezer over-freezing," the fresh food sensor is the likely candidate. If your symptom is "freezer icing up despite defrost heater working," the defrost temperature sensor may be the culprit — a different part number. Check your refrigerator's parts diagram to confirm the correct sensor location for your specific symptom.
Does this sensor fit my Kenmore refrigerator?
On many Kenmore refrigerators, yes — Sears sells Kenmore-branded refrigerators that are manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux, Whirlpool, LG, and Samsung. The 240597203 sensor fits Kenmore refrigerators with model numbers beginning with the 253, 106, or 795 prefixes that are Frigidaire/Electrolux-built. Kenmore refrigerators built by other manufacturers (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung) use different sensors. Check the first three digits of your Kenmore model number — if it's 253, 106, or 795 and falls within the compatible model list, this is the correct part.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Frigidaire/Electrolux OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (10K Ohm NTC), probe dimensions (5/16" diameter x 1-3/16" length), wire length (12"), and connector configuration of the original 240597203 temperature sensor used in compatible refrigerators.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WD21X10224 Genuine GE / Hotpoint Dishwasher Interlock Switch
Replaces Part Numbers:AP3872949, 1168295, AH1021382, EA1021382, PS1021382
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
XPARTCO 6931EL3001F Dryer Hi-Limit Thermostat
The XPARTCO 6931EL3001F is an aftermarket replacement dryer rear hi-limit heater thermostat compatible with select LG and Kenmore electric and gas dryers. The hi-limit thermostat is a safety switch mounted on the heater housing that monitors the temperature at the heating element. If the heater temperature exceeds the safe operating limit, the thermostat opens its contacts to cut power to the heating element, protecting the dryer and its contents from overheating. When cooled, the thermostat resets automatically — but if it fails internally, it may remain open permanently, causing the dryer to produce no heat despite the thermal fuse and other components being intact.
Rated L125-31C, 250V, 25A, this 3-terminal thermostat measures 2"L x 1-3/4"W x 1-1/4"H with approximately 1-5/8" between mounting holes (center to center). It is constructed from metal and plastic in gray/black and mounts directly on the heater housing. It directly replaces 1377779, AP5072172, AH3530482, EA3530482, EAP3530482, PS3530482, and PD00023316. Often replaced together with the 6931EL3003D thermal fuse — both mount on the heater housing and work as a system to protect the dryer from overheating. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 6931EL3001F Dryer Hi-Limit Thermostat fixes LG and Kenmore dryers with no heat where the thermostat has failed open. Rated L125-31C, 250V/25A, 3 terminals. 2"L x 1-3/4"W x 1-1/4"H, ~1-5/8" between mounting holes. Mounts on heater housing. Test with multimeter — should show closed continuity at room temperature. Often replaced together with 6931EL3003D thermal fuse. Replaces 1377779, AP5072172, AH3530482, EA3530482, EAP3530482, PS3530482.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer produces no heat — hi-limit thermostat has failed open and is permanently interrupting the heater circuit
Dryer takes much longer than normal to dry a load
Dryer tumbles normally but generates no heat during the cycle
No heat even after the thermal fuse has already been replaced — thermostat also failed
Dryer overheating intermittently — thermostat not opening at the correct temperature
Multimeter test shows open circuit (no continuity) across the thermostat at room temperature
Replaces Part Numbers
This hi-limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
6931EL3001F, 1377779, AH3530482, ALG51960, EA3530482, EAP3530482, AP5072172, PD00023316, PS3530482
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This hi-limit thermostat is compatible with select LG and Kenmore electric and gas dryers. Compatible models include LG DLE, DLG, DLEX, DLGX, and DLB series dryers, and Kenmore 796-series dryers built on the LG platform.
LG electric dryers — DLE series (DLE2050W, DLE3777W, DLE5955W and related models)
LG electric dryers — DLEX series (select models)
LG gas dryers — DLG series (DLG2051W, DLG3788W and related models)
LG gas dryers — DLGX series (select models)
LG electric and gas dryers — DLB series (select models)
Kenmore / Sears dryers — 796-series (LG-built models)
Tip: When replacing the 6931EL3001F thermostat, also replace the 6931EL3003D thermal fuse at the same time. Both mount on the heater housing and are commonly replaced together — an overheating event that causes one to fail typically stresses both.
Key Features
Hi-limit heater thermostat — safety switch that cuts power to the heating element if heater temperature exceeds safe limits
Auto-resets when cooled — but a failed thermostat that remains open causes permanent no-heat
Rated L125-31C, 250V, 25A — correct specifications for compatible LG and Kenmore dryers
3-terminal design — matches the original wiring configuration on compatible heater housings
Dimensions: 2"L x 1-3/4"W x 1-1/4"H; ~1-5/8" between mounting holes (center to center)
Metal and plastic construction (gray/black) — heat-resistant materials for heater housing application
Mounts directly on the heater housing — accessible from the dryer back panel
Often replaced together with 6931EL3003D thermal fuse for a complete heater housing thermal repair
Test with multimeter before replacing — should show closed continuity at room temperature
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
6931EL3001F
Part Type
Dryer Rear Hi-Limit Heater Thermostat
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
LG and Kenmore Electric and Gas Dryers
Thermostat Rating
L125-31C — auto-resets after cooling
Voltage
250V
Amperage
25A
Terminals
3-terminal
Dimensions
2"L x 1-3/4"W x 1-1/4"H
Mounting Hole Spacing
Approx. 1-5/8" center to center
Color
Gray / Black
Material
Metal / Plastic
Location
Heater housing (rear of dryer)
Normal Behavior
Closed continuity at room temperature
Often Replaced With
6931EL3003D Thermal Fuse
Compatible Brands
LG, Kenmore (LG-built)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dryer and Shut Off Gas Before Starting Disconnect power (and shut off gas for gas dryers) before beginning. Remove the back panel of the dryer by unscrewing the perimeter screws to access the heater housing. The 6931EL3001F thermostat is mounted on the heater housing — it is the 3-terminal component with gray/black housing. Before removing it, test it with a multimeter: disconnect the wires and probe the terminals. At room temperature a working thermostat shows closed continuity. An open reading confirms failure. Photograph the 3-wire connections before disconnecting — reconnecting in the correct positions is important. Remove the 2 mounting screws and lift the old thermostat off. Install the new thermostat in the same position with the 2 mounting screws and reconnect the wires in the same positions. While the heater housing is accessible, also test and replace the 6931EL3003D thermal fuse if needed. Reinstall the back panel, restore power, and run a test heat cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, multimeter.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the 6931EL3001F thermostat and the 6931EL3003D thermal fuse?
Both are mounted on the heater housing and protect the dryer from overheating, but they work differently. The 6931EL3001F is a resettable hi-limit thermostat rated L125-31C — it opens when the heater temperature gets too high and resets automatically when cooled. The 6931EL3003D is a one-time thermal fuse that permanently interrupts the circuit if the temperature exceeds its rated limit — once blown, it cannot reset and must be replaced. Both should show closed continuity at room temperature when working. Because both are on the heater housing and experience the same thermal stress, replacing both at the same time is recommended.
How do I test the 6931EL3001F thermostat with a multimeter?
Unplug the dryer and disconnect all three wires from the thermostat terminals. Set your multimeter to continuity or resistance mode. At room temperature, a working 6931EL3001F thermostat should show closed continuity (near-zero resistance) across its contacts. If your multimeter reads open circuit (no continuity / OL), the thermostat has failed and needs replacement. Since this thermostat auto-resets when cooled, always test at room temperature — testing while the dryer is still warm may give a false open reading if the thermostat has legitimately opened due to heat.
My LG dryer has no heat but the thermal fuse is good — could it be the thermostat?
Yes — when the thermal fuse tests good but there is still no heat, the hi-limit thermostat (6931EL3001F) is the next most common culprit. A thermostat that has failed internally may remain permanently open even at room temperature, cutting power to the heating element exactly as a blown thermal fuse would. Test the thermostat with a multimeter for continuity. Also check the cycling thermostat (6931EL3002M) and the thermistor (6323EL2001B) — all three are part of the LG dryer thermal control system and any one of them can cause a no-heat condition.
What does the "L125-31C" rating mean?
The L125-31C rating describes the thermostat's operating parameters. L125 means the thermostat opens (trips) when the temperature reaches approximately 125°C (257°F). The 31 indicates the reset differential — the thermostat resets when the temperature drops approximately 31°C below the trip point, around 94°C (201°F). This rating ensures the thermostat allows the heater to operate at normal drying temperatures while protecting against dangerous overheating.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from metal and plastic to match the L125-31C rating, dimensions, and 3-terminal configuration of the original 6931EL3001F hi-limit heater thermostat.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
00701751 Refrigerator Genuine Defrost Heater
Replaces Part Numbers: 00701751, 00660332, 2000209, 660332, 701751, AH3484061, EA3484061, PS3484061, OEM18267702, AP4566925, PS8735951.
Description: This Defrost Heater Assembly is a Genuine part for Specific Bosch, Thermador refrigerator models. It plays a crucial role in the refrigerator's defrost cycle, melting away any frost that accumulates on the evaporator coils.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
WR60X10062 Refrigerator Air Damper Assembly
Replaces Part Numbers:WR60X10062, 914163, AH304650, EA304650, AP3184950, PS304650.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
XPARTCO 8573713 Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Replaces WP8573713
The XPARTCO 8573713 is an aftermarket replacement thermal cut-off fuse for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers. This fuse is mounted on top of the burner funnel, directly under the drum, and it's a one-time safety device: as long as the dryer stays within its normal operating temperature, it does nothing at all, but the instant temperatures near the burner climb high enough — almost always from restricted airflow — the fuse permanently opens the circuit and cuts power. That's why a blown fuse produces such a specific symptom: the dryer won't heat, even though the drum may still tumble and the rest of the dryer seems to run normally.
Because this fuse sits on the burner funnel underneath the drum rather than on the more accessible blower housing, replacing it is a more involved repair than a typical thermal fuse swap — the drum has to come out of the cabinet to reach it. Unlike a resettable thermostat, this fuse cannot be reset once it blows; it must be replaced. A blown thermal fuse is almost always a symptom rather than a random failure: restricted exhaust venting is the leading cause, since trapped heat near the burner is exactly what this fuse is designed to react to. It directly replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, and PS11746693.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 8573713 Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers that won't heat, even if the drum still tumbles normally. Mounted on the burner funnel under the drum. Replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, PS11746693. Always inspect and clean the dryer venting when replacing this fuse — a blown fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and installing a new fuse without fixing the vent will likely blow it again.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer runs and tumbles but produces no heat
Dryer that stopped heating suddenly, especially after running unusually hot
Drying times that have gotten noticeably longer or clothes coming out damp
Repeated blown fuses on a dryer with a known venting or airflow restriction
Dryer that recently smelled like burning or overheating before losing heat
Continuity test shows an open circuit across the old fuse
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This gas dryer thermal cut-off fuse directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP8573713, 1180872, 8573713, AP3866211, EAP990558, PS990558, AWP49233, PD00006618
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This thermal cut-off fuse is compatible with select Whirlpool gas dryers, and also fits select Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, and Sears Canada gas dryers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WGD8500SR0, and Kenmore 11070372710 and 11071112020.
Note: This fuse is specific to gas dryers, mounted on the burner funnel. It is not the same fuse used on electric dryer platforms. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement thermal cut-off fuse — one-time safety device that cuts power if the dryer overheats
Mounted on top of the burner funnel, directly under the drum
Resolves "runs but won't heat," "drying takes too long," and "clothes coming out damp" symptoms caused by a blown fuse
Replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, and PS11746693
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, and Sears Canada gas dryers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
8573713
OEM Part Number
WP8573713
Part Type
Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Gas Dryers
Location
Top of the burner funnel, under the drum
Resettable
No — one-time use, must be replaced once blown
Material
Plastic housing
Dimensions
Approx. 1"H x 1"W
Repair Difficulty
Moderate to Hard — drum removal required for access
Quantity
1 thermal cut-off fuse
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, Sears Canada
Installation Notes
⚠️ Gas Safety — Shut Off The Gas Supply Before Starting This fuse sits directly on the burner funnel, close to the gas burner assembly. Before beginning, close the gas shutoff valve behind the dryer in addition to unplugging the dryer or shutting off its circuit breaker. If at any point you smell gas, stop immediately, leave the area, and do not operate any switches — contact your gas utility or a qualified technician. Do not attempt this repair if you are not comfortable working safely around a gas appliance's burner assembly; a qualified technician can complete it instead.
⚠️ Drum Removal Required — Inspect And Clean The Venting Before Reassembling Wear work gloves. This repair requires removing the drum from the dryer cabinet to access the burner funnel, so budget more time and disassembly than a typical thermal fuse swap. Remove the top and front panels according to your model's service diagram, disconnect the drive belt from the idler pulley, and lift the drum out of the cabinet to expose the burner funnel underneath. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the old fuse's connectors. Test the old fuse for continuity with a multimeter to confirm it's actually blown (no continuity) rather than assuming, and test the new fuse to confirm it's good out of the box. This is the most important step: fully inspect and clean the dryer's exhaust vent, from the lint trap housing all the way to the exterior vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed sections, or excessive length. A blown thermal fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and skipping this step means the new fuse is likely to blow again. Install the new 8573713 fuse on the burner funnel in the same mounting position, reconnect the wiring, and reassemble the drum, belt, and panels in reverse order. Restore the gas supply and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal heating and shutoff behavior. Tools needed: Phillips or nut driver (model-dependent), multimeter, vent brush or vacuum attachment for cleaning ductwork, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer tumbles fine but there's no heat. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the classic symptom of a blown gas dryer thermal cut-off fuse. Because this fuse only interrupts the heating circuit and not the drive motor, the drum can continue tumbling completely normally while the dryer produces no heat at all. If you've confirmed the burner isn't igniting and the fuse tests as an open circuit, this is very likely the fix.
Why does this repair require removing the drum? My other dryer's fuse didn't need that.
This particular fuse is mounted on the burner funnel underneath the drum rather than on the blower housing at the back of the cabinet, which is where many thermal fuses on other platforms are located. Reaching the burner funnel requires taking the drum out of the cabinet, which is why this repair involves more disassembly than some other thermal fuse replacements.
I replaced the fuse and it blew again. What's going on?
This is a strong sign that the underlying cause — almost always restricted airflow — was never addressed. Thermal fuses don't fail from age; they blow because the dryer overheated. If a new fuse keeps blowing, thoroughly inspect and clean the entire exhaust path from the lint trap housing to the outside vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed or kinked ductwork, or a vent run that's too long.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and mounting configuration of the original WP8573713 thermal cut-off fuse used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
W10500004 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Bottom Door Hinge & Cam Kit (Right, Gray)
The W10500004 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM bottom door hinge and closing cam kit for the right side fresh food door on Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, and Admiral refrigerators. This kit combines two related components: the bottom hinge, which supports the door's weight and lets it swing open and closed, and the closing cam, a plastic component that gives the door its final "pull" to close firmly on its own once you've pushed it most of the way shut.
Finished in Apollo Gray, this kit measures approximately 4.65" x 4.49" x 2.24" and weighs about 0.34 lbs. The plastic closing cam is the part most prone to wear — after years of use it can flatten out or crack, losing the contoured shape that pulls the door the rest of the way closed. A worn cam or hinge typically shows up as a door that won't close fully on its own unless you push it firmly shut, or a door that feels loose, sags, or doesn't swing smoothly on its hinge. It directly replaces AP5656407, 2684526, PS5573850, W10249949, W10257197, and W10257209.
Quick Answer
The W10500004 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Bottom Door Hinge & Cam Kit (Right, Gray) fixes Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, and Admiral refrigerators where the right-side fresh food door won't close on its own unless pushed firmly shut, or the door feels loose or sags on its hinge. Apollo Gray finish. Replaces AP5656407, 2684526, PS5573850, W10249949, W10257197, W10257209. Mounting the closing cam requires a new screw, sold separately — the kit does not include it.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator door won't close fully on its own — has to be pushed firmly shut
Door that feels loose, sags, or doesn't swing smoothly on its hinge
Worn or flattened closing cam that no longer pulls the door shut
Visible cracks or wear on the plastic closing cam
Door that doesn't seal properly due to incomplete closing
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator bottom door hinge and cam kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
2684526, W10249949, W10257197, W10257209, AP5656407, AWP40907, EAP5573850, PD00024325, PS5573850
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This bottom door hinge and cam kit is compatible with select Whirlpool refrigerators, and also fits select Amana, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, and Admiral refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform, as well as select Kenmore Elite and Ikea refrigerators, including model numbers such as 3WSC19D4AY00, 3WSC19D4XW00, 3WSC19D4XD00, 3WSC19D4XB00, 3WSC20N4XB00, and 3WSC20N4XW00.
Note — right side only: This kit is specific to the right-side fresh food door. A separate kit exists for the left side. This is also the lower door's hinge and cam kit — the upper door's closing cam is a different part sold separately. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which hinge kit your refrigerator needs.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified hinge and cam design
Combined kit — bottom hinge plus closing cam in one part
Resolves "door won't close on its own," "door feels loose," and "worn or cracked cam" symptoms
Apollo Gray finish
Approximately 4.65" x 4.49" x 2.24", 0.34 lbs
Direct drop-in replacement for the right-side lower door hinge and cam
Replaces AP5656407, 2684526, PS5573850, W10249949, W10257197, and W10257209
Compatible with Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, and Admiral refrigerators
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10500004
Part Type
Bottom Door Hinge & Closing Cam Kit
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Door Position
Right side, fresh food door, lower hinge
Color
Apollo Gray
Dimensions
4.65" x 4.49" x 2.24"
Weight
0.34 lbs
Additional Hardware Needed
New cam mounting screw (sold separately)
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — door removal required
Quantity
1 hinge and cam kit
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Kenmore Elite, Ikea
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — A New Cam Mounting Screw Is Required, Sold Separately Disconnect power at the outlet before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the top hinge cover, then remove the top hinge support to free the top of the door. Lift the door up and off the bottom hinge support to remove it completely — this is easier with a second person supporting the door's weight. Remove the old, worn closing cam and hinge from the bottom support. The manufacturer specifies that mounting the new closing cam requires a new screw, which is not included in this kit and must be ordered separately. Install the new W10500004 hinge and cam onto the bottom support, applying a small amount of lubricant such as petroleum jelly to the cam surface to help it move smoothly against the door once reassembled. Set the door back onto the bottom hinge support, making sure it seats correctly on the new cam. Reinstall the top hinge support and top hinge cover. Restore power and test the door by opening it partway and letting go — it should swing the rest of the way closed on its own if the cam is seated and lubricated correctly. Tools needed: 5/16" nut driver or socket, ratchet, small flat-blade screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My door won't close all the way unless I push it. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the classic symptom of a worn closing cam. When the cam is new, its contoured shape gives the door that final "pull" to swing closed on its own once you've pushed it most of the way shut. As the cam wears flat or cracks over years of use, it loses that pulling action, leaving the door to stay open unless you close it firmly by hand.
Do I need to buy anything else along with this kit?
Yes — per Whirlpool's own specifications, mounting the new closing cam requires a new mounting screw, which is sold separately and not included in this kit. Order that screw at the same time to avoid a delay partway through the repair.
Should I lubricate anything during installation?
Yes, it's recommended. Applying a small amount of lubricant, such as petroleum jelly, to the cam surface helps it move smoothly against the door once everything is reassembled, and can extend the life of the new cam by reducing friction wear.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original hinge design, cam shape, and Apollo Gray finish of the bottom door hinge and cam kit originally installed on your refrigerator.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO WR60X10220 Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor
The XPARTCO WR60X10220 is an aftermarket replacement condenser fan motor for GE frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. This motor lives in the compressor/machine compartment at the back or bottom of the refrigerator. Whenever the compressor runs, this fan runs right along with it, circulating air through the refrigerator's grille to cool both the compressor and the condenser coils as they work. It also plays a secondary role in helping evaporate excess water that collects in the drain pan.
Because the condenser fan cools the mechanical side of the refrigeration system rather than circulating cold air to your food, a failing motor tends to affect the whole refrigerator's cooling capacity rather than just one compartment. The harness and plug extend approximately 8" from the motor body. Common failure causes include worn motor bearings, dust and debris buildup around the coils restricting airflow, and general electrical wear over time. Symptoms include a refrigerator that runs warm overall, a hot cabinet area near the back or bottom of the unit, a squealing or grinding noise, or the compressor running constantly as it struggles to shed heat. It directly replaces AP4298602, 1257132, AH1766247, EA1766247, PS1766247, WR60X10133, WR60X10171, WR60X10192, and SM10220.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WR60X10220 Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café frost-free refrigerators with a hot cabinet area, squealing or grinding noise, or a fridge running warm overall. Harness and plug extend approximately 8" from the motor. Replaces AP4298602, 1257132, AH1766247, EA1766247, PS1766247, WR60X10133, WR60X10171, WR60X10192, SM10220. This cools the compressor and condenser coils — a different part and symptom pattern than an evaporator fan, which only affects internal air circulation to the food compartments.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator running warm overall, in both the fresh food and freezer compartments
Hot cabinet area noticeable near the back or bottom of the refrigerator
Squealing, grinding, or buzzing noise coming from the compressor compartment
Refrigerator running constantly as the compressor struggles to shed heat
Water pooling or not evaporating properly in the drain pan
Fan blade that doesn't spin freely, or doesn't spin at all, when checked by hand
Excessive dust or debris buildup visible around the condenser coils and fan
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator condenser fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR60X10220, WR60X10133, WR60X10171, WR60X10192, 197D1871P026, IS-2321GEN, AH1766247, EA1766247, EAP1766247, AP4298602, AGE29216, PD00001198, PS1766247, SM10220
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This condenser fan motor is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and RCA frost-free refrigerators, and also fits select Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators built on the GE platform.
Note — condenser fan, not evaporator fan: This motor cools the compressor and condenser coils in the machine compartment at the back or bottom of the refrigerator. It is a completely different part from an evaporator fan motor (such as our WR60X10185 or WR60X10318 listings), which sits behind the freezer's rear panel and circulates cold air to the food compartments. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which fan motor your refrigerator needs.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement condenser fan motor — draws air across the condenser coils and compressor to remove system heat
Resolves "hot cabinet area," "squealing or grinding noise," "runs warm overall," and "runs constantly" symptoms caused by fan failure
Also helps evaporate excess water collecting in the drain pan
Harness and plug extend approximately 8" from the motor body
Sturdy construction built for long-term reliable performance
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original mounting and blade fitment
Replaces WR60X10133, WR60X10171, WR60X10192, AP4298602, 1257132, AH1766247, EA1766247, PS1766247, and SM10220
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY-friendly repair — typically under 30 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR60X10220
OEM Part Number
WR60X10220
Part Type
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Brand
GE
Location
Compressor/machine compartment (back or bottom of cabinet)
Function
Cools the condenser coils and compressor; aids drain pan evaporation
Dimensions
2-1/2"H x 4"W x 11"D
Harness/Plug Length
Approx. 8" from motor
Repair Difficulty
Easy — under 30 minutes
Quantity
1 fan motor
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Shut off power at the circuit breaker or fuse box, then pull the refrigerator away from the wall and disconnect the power cord from the outlet. Wear work gloves. Remove the condenser fan motor cover, typically held on by two screws, to access the motor. Before condemning the motor, clear away any dust, lint, or debris built up around the condenser coils and fan blade — restricted airflow from a dirty coil produces symptoms similar to a failing motor and costs nothing to rule out. Photograph the wiring and the fan blade's position before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the power wire and the ground wire from the old motor, remove the mounting screws or clips holding the motor bracket in place, and pull the motor and fan blade assembly free. If the old fan blade is seized onto the motor shaft, a firm, sudden strike (rather than steady pressure) will typically break the blade loose from the shaft without damaging the plastic blade, so it can be reused on the new motor. Mount the new WR60X10220 in the same position, reconnect the power and ground wires, and confirm the blade spins freely by hand without contacting the housing before reinstalling the fan cover. Restore power and monitor the refrigerator over the next 24 hours to confirm normal, even cooling has returned and any hot cabinet area or noise has resolved. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My refrigerator has a hot spot on the cabinet and runs warm overall. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is a classic symptom pair for a failing condenser fan motor. Without proper airflow across the condenser coils and compressor, heat builds up in the machine compartment (producing that hot cabinet area) while the whole refrigeration cycle loses efficiency, which shows up as both compartments running warmer than normal rather than just one.
The old fan blade is stuck on the motor shaft. How do I remove it without breaking it?
A gentle, steady pull often won't budge a seized blade, but a firm, sudden strike to the blade (rather than continuous pressure) will typically pop it loose from the metal shaft without damaging the plastic blade itself, so you can reuse it on the new motor if a blade isn't included. Work carefully and support the blade so it doesn't fall and crack once it releases.
Could dirty condenser coils cause the same symptoms as a bad fan motor?
Yes, and it's worth checking before you buy a new motor. A condenser fan pushing air through coils caked in dust, pet hair, or debris will struggle to cool the system properly even if the motor itself is working fine. Clean the coils and the fan blade thoroughly first; if the fan still doesn't spin freely, spins with a wobble, or doesn't run at all afterward, the motor itself has failed and this replacement is the correct fix.
Does this fan also affect my drain pan?
Yes, indirectly. In addition to cooling the compressor and condenser coils, this fan helps evaporate excess water that collects in the drain pan beneath the refrigerator. If the fan has failed, you may notice water pooling or not evaporating as it normally would, in addition to the more obvious cooling and noise symptoms.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the mounting configuration, dimensions, and airflow performance of the original WR60X10220 condenser fan motor used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
