WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat
The WP4449751 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails.
Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the WP4449751 directly replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician.
Quick Answer
The WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Genuine OEM. Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open
Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode)
Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food
Oven fails to start when powered on
Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes
Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity
Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature
F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel
Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature
Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands:
Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series)
Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS)
Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series
KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05)
Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series)
Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models)
Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02)
KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00)
Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series
Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models)
Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models)
Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire
Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range
Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response
One-year Whirlpool warranty on Genuine OEM parts
Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549
Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens
Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units
Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat
For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit
Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WP4449751
Part Type
Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform)
Trip Temperature
335°F (170°C)
Type
Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range)
Warranty
One-Year Whirlpool Warranty (Genuine OEM)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new WP4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place?
A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open.
What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat?
These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement.
Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping?
The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement.
Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat?
This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem.
Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician?
Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same high limit thermostat installed in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Backed by Whirlpool's one-year warranty on Genuine OEM parts.
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Genuine OEM WP3387134 Dryer Cycling Thermostat
The Genuine OEM Whirlpool WP3387134 is a dryer cycling thermostat, the operating thermostat that controls drying temperature. It switches the heating element off when the dryer reaches its set temperature and back on after it cools, keeping the inside of the dryer at a steady temperature throughout the cycle. This one is rated L155-25: it cuts out at approximately 155°F and cycles back on once the temperature drops about 25°F.
When a cycling thermostat fails, the dryer may stop heating, run too hot, or keep heating after the drum has stopped. This is the original Whirlpool part, and it fits a wide range of Whirlpool-built dryers sold under the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Estate, Amana, and other brand names.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WP3387134 Cycling Thermostat fixes a Whirlpool-built dryer that isn't heating, runs too hot, or has inconsistent drying temperatures. Rated L155-25, it cycles the heating element off at about 155°F and back on after a 25°F drop. Classic symptom: clothes come out damp or the dryer runs excessively hot, with no sign of a clogged vent.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer not heating
Dryer running too hot
Inconsistent drying temperatures
Heat staying on after the drum has stopped
Dryer won't start or the timer doesn't advance, if the thermostat has failed
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This cycling thermostat directly replaces the following part numbers:
WP3387134, 3387134, 2011, 2893, 3-6910, 306910, 3387135, 3387139, ET187, EAP11741405, WP3387134VP, AP6008270, AWP47432, EAP11741405, PD00002313, PS11741405, L155-25F
These numbers span several generations of Whirlpool's own part numbering for this thermostat as model lines were updated. All are the correct replacement regardless of which number appears on your dryer's parts diagram.
Compatibility
This thermostat fits a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Estate, Amana and related dryers, including these examples:
Kenmore 11060012000, 11060012001, 11060022010, 11060172000, 11060232000, 11060602990
Numerous additional Whirlpool-built dryer models
Note: This is the cycling (operating) thermostat, not the high limit thermostat or the thermal fuse, which are separate safety parts. The models above are a sample, not a full list. Confirm your model number against your dryer's parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM Whirlpool cycling thermostat
Rated L155-25: cuts out at about 155°F and cycles back on after a 25°F drop
Keeps dryer temperature steady by cycling the heating element on and off
Resolves no-heat, overheating, and inconsistent-temperature symptoms
Fits Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, and other Whirlpool-built dryers
Medium-difficulty repair with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WP3387134
OEM Part Number
WP3387134
Part Type
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
Condition
Genuine OEM
Temperature Rating
L155-25 (Cuts Out ~155°F, 25°F Differential)
Application
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid & Related Dryers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the dryer or switch off its circuit breaker before beginning, and shut off the gas supply first on gas models. Wear work gloves, as the cabinet edges are sharp. Remove the panel that gives access to the heater housing per your model's service guide, note the wire terminal positions, and disconnect them from the old thermostat. Remove the thermostat, install the new one in the same position, and reconnect the wires. A screwdriver and needle-nose pliers are typically all you need. Before closing the dryer, clean the lint trap and check the exhaust vent for restrictions, since poor airflow is a common cause of overheating.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer isn't heating or runs too hot. Is this the part I need?
A failed cycling thermostat can cause either symptom. It may stay open and prevent heat, or stay closed and let the dryer overheat. Check for a clogged vent and test the thermostat for continuity before replacing it.
What's the difference between the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat?
The cycling thermostat controls normal drying temperature by switching the heating element on and off. The high limit thermostat and thermal fuse are separate safety devices that cut power if the dryer overheats. This listing is for the cycling thermostat only.
How do I test this thermostat?
With the dryer unplugged and the wires removed, check for continuity across the terminals with a multimeter at room temperature. A properly working cycling thermostat should show continuity when cool. No continuity means it has failed.
Will this fit my dryer?
It fits many Whirlpool-built dryers, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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Genuine OEM WH08X37938 Washer Lid Switch Assembly
The WH08X37938 is a genuine OEM lid switch (lid lock) assembly from GE for GE and Hotpoint top-load washers, also used on select Kenmore models. The assembly locks the lid while the washer is running and releases it when the cycle ends, and it tells the control board the lid is closed and it's safe to run. When it wears out, cracks, or fails electrically, the washer may refuse to start, stop in the middle of a cycle, show a lid or door lock error, or fail to lock the lid at all.
This assembly replaces the original lock and switch as a unit, so you do not have to diagnose which internal contact has failed. As a genuine OEM part, not an aftermarket equivalent, it matches the original factory fit and specification. It mounts on the washer cabinet with an electrical connector and is a straightforward repair, usually done in under an hour.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WH08X37938 Lid Switch Assembly fixes a GE or Hotpoint top-load washer that won't start, stops mid-cycle, won't lock the lid, or shows a lid or door lock error because the lid lock is worn or has failed. Complete replacement lock and switch assembly, genuine OEM. Classic symptom: you close the lid and nothing happens, or the washer starts then stops and signals a lid or lock fault.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't start when the lid is closed
Washer stops partway through the wash, rinse, or spin
Lid will not lock, or stays locked after the cycle ends
Lid or door lock error codes
Loose, cracked, or visibly damaged lid lock
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This lid switch assembly replaces the following part numbers:
WH08X37938, WH08X32697, WH02X24399, WH08X32657, WH01X26694, WH01X24112, WH01X24114, WH01X26114, WH01X27954, WH08X31577, WH08X31222, 290D1580P001, 290D1580P002, 290D1580P003, 290D1580P004, 290D3070P001, EG-380843 M, AGE26076, AP7225583, EAP17626546, OEM21676758, PD00087323, PS17626546
These are earlier GE numbers for the lid lock, as the part was updated over time. If your old lock or parts diagram shows any of them, match against this list.
Compatibility
This assembly is listed for select top-load washers from:
GE and Hotpoint, including GTUN275EM0WW, GTUN275GM0WW, GTUP240EM0WW, and GTUP240EM2WW
Kenmore, including 363.71542211, 363.71542310, and 363.71542410
Note: The model list above is only a sample, and lid locks differ between GE washer generations. Confirm fit by matching the number on your old lock or your parts diagram against the Replaces list, or contact our support team with your model number and we'll verify before you order. This part is for top-load washers.
Key Features
Genuine OEM GE lid switch (lid lock) assembly, not an aftermarket equivalent
Replaces the lock and switch as a unit, with no need to find the failed contact
Restores starting, locking, and unlocking at the end of the cycle
Cross-references to WH08X32697, WH08X31577, and other earlier GE numbers
Fits select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore top-load washers
Mounts on the cabinet with a plug-in electrical connector
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH08X37938
OEM Part Number
WH08X37938
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch (Lid Lock) Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Select GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore Top-Load Washers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power and Shut Off Water Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before starting. Work gloves are recommended. Open the lid and, following your model's service guide, remove the top panel or cabinet section to reach the lid lock mounted on the cabinet. Note the position of the old assembly, disconnect its wiring connector, and remove the screws holding it in place. Fit the new assembly in the same position, secure it, and reconnect the connector. Reassemble the washer, restore power and water, and run a short cycle to confirm the lid locks, the washer starts, and the lid releases at the end.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't start with the lid closed. Is this the part I need?
A failed lid lock is a common cause. The control board won't start a cycle unless it sees the lid is closed and locked. Check that the lid closes fully and that nothing is blocking it. If it still won't start, the lid lock is a likely cause.
Is a lid switch the same as a lid lock?
On these washers, the lid switch and lock are combined in one assembly, which this part replaces.
My old part is marked WH08X32697 or WH08X31577. Will this work?
Those numbers are on the Replaces list. Compare the connector and mounting against your old part, or contact our support team with your model number and we'll confirm.
Will this fit my front-load washer?
No. This is for top-load washers.
Is this an OEM part?
Yes. This is a genuine OEM GE part, not an aftermarket equivalent, so it matches the original factory fit and specification.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WB24T10029 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Control Switch
The WB24T10029 is a genuine GE OEM surface burner control switch — also called an infinite switch — for the 6-inch surface element on GE, Hotpoint, and select Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops. This switch is what the burner knob actually turns: it doesn't have fixed positions like a light switch, but instead cycles the element's power on and off at varying ratios as you rotate the knob, which is why it's called an "infinite" switch — it lets you dial in a continuous range of heat levels rather than a handful of fixed steps. Turn the knob to a low setting and the switch feeds the element power only briefly out of every few seconds; turn it toward high and the element stays powered for most of that same window.
This switch is rated for 1,500 watts and controls a 6-inch surface element, drawing 4.4–7.4A at 240V. Over years of use the internal contacts wear, pit, or weld from repeated on/off cycling, and moisture from boilovers or spills can corrode the switch body and cause it to short internally. A worn switch produces predictable symptoms: the burner won't turn on or off at all, it sticks at one heat level no matter where the knob is turned, or it works only intermittently. It directly replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, and PS236754. As a genuine OEM part, the WB24T10029 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The WB24T10029 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Control Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges where a surface burner won't turn on or off, stays at one heat level regardless of the knob setting, or works intermittently. This is the 6-inch element switch — 1,500W, 4.4–7.4A at 240V. Replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, PS236754. Not the same switch as the WB24T10025 used on the 8-inch element — check which burner is affected before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Surface burner won't turn on at all when the knob is turned
Burner won't turn off — stays hot even with the knob at the off position
Burner stuck at one heat level regardless of where the knob is set
No ability to adjust temperature — always full blast or always low
Intermittent burner operation — works sometimes, not others
Burner cycles unpredictably, on and off faster or slower than the knob setting suggests
Knob feels loose, gritty, or doesn't click through its normal range of motion
Burner failure that followed a boilover or liquid spill on the control panel
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This range surface burner control switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WB24T10029, 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, EAP236754, AGE22522, PD00008555, PS236754
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This surface burner control switch is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops using a 6-inch surface element, across a very wide range of model families, including:
GE JB, JBP, JCBP, and JBS series electric ranges
GE RB and RA series electric ranges
Hotpoint RB series electric ranges (select GE-built models)
Select Kenmore electric ranges built on the GE platform
This switch fits several thousand model variants across GE's electric range lineup, including common families such as JB250, JB350, JB500, JB600 through JB870, JBP10 through JBP99, JCBP35 through JCBP85, JBS07, JBS27, JBS55, JBS60, JBS86, RA724, RB536, RB540, RB560, RB585, RB720, RB740, RB757, RB758, RB787, RB790, RB798, and RB800 — each spanning many color and revision suffixes. Because the model list is extremely long, always verify your full model number against your range's data label, located inside the storage drawer or along the back panel, before ordering.
Note — 6-inch element switch only: GE ranges typically pair a smaller 6-inch element with a larger 8-inch element, and each uses its own dedicated infinite switch. The WB24T10029 is the switch for the 6-inch element. The larger 8-inch element on the same range uses the separate WB24T10025 switch (replaces 769692, AP2024072, AH236750, EA236750, PS236750) instead. The two switches look nearly identical and are easy to mix up when ordering — before you buy, confirm which specific burner has failed and measure or check the element size. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch you need.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified contact design and heat-cycling calibration
Infinite switch design allows continuous heat adjustment rather than a handful of fixed positions
Rated for the 6-inch surface element — 1,500 watts, 4.4–7.4A at 240V
Resolves "burner won't turn on," "burner won't turn off," "stuck at one heat level," and "intermittent operation" symptoms caused by worn or corroded switch contacts
Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the same control panel bracket and wiring harness
Replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, and PS236754
Compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric range models
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WB24T10029
Part Type
Range Surface Burner Control Switch (Infinite Switch)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE
Element Size Controlled
6 in.
Wattage Rating
1,500 W
Amperage
4.4–7.4 A
Voltage
240V
Function
Cycles element power to allow continuous (infinite) heat adjustment
Mounting
Control panel bracket, knob shaft, and wiring harness terminals
Quantity
1 switch
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, select Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ 240V Circuit — Unplug Range Or Shut Off Breaker Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning — this switch operates on a 240V circuit, and working on it while powered presents a serious shock hazard. Wear work gloves. Access is from the front of the control panel: remove the burner knob (it typically pulls straight off, though some models use a small retaining clip or screw), then remove the screws securing the control panel or backsplash to reach the switch from behind. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting anything — this switch has multiple terminals and getting one out of order will affect either the wrong burner or its heat-cycling behavior. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old switch, noting or labeling each one, then remove the mounting screws or clips holding the switch to the panel and pull it free. Install the new WB24T10029 in the same orientation, reconnect each wire terminal exactly as labeled, and secure the mounting hardware. Reinstall the control panel or backsplash, press the knob back onto the shaft, restore power, and test the burner through its full range from low to high to confirm smooth, continuous heat adjustment. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, wire terminal pliers (helpful but optional), work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need the WB24T10029 or the WB24T10025?
It depends entirely on which burner has failed. Most GE ranges pair a smaller 6-inch element with a larger 8-inch element, and each has its own dedicated infinite switch. The WB24T10029 is for the 6-inch element; the WB24T10025 is for the 8-inch element. Look at your range and identify which specific burner is misbehaving, then measure that element's diameter if you're not sure — the two switches are not interchangeable even though they look nearly identical side by side.
What does "infinite switch" mean, and why does mine only work at one setting?
An infinite switch lets you dial in a continuous range of heat rather than a few fixed positions, by rapidly cycling the element's power on and off at a ratio set by the knob — low settings get short power pulses, high settings get long ones. When the internal contacts wear or weld together from years of cycling, the switch can get stuck feeding constant power (burner always hot) or stop switching at all (burner always off), regardless of where the knob is turned. That "stuck at one heat level" complaint is the classic symptom of a failing infinite switch.
A spill got into the control panel and now the burner won't turn off. Is that the switch?
Very likely, yes. Liquid boilovers and spills are one of the most common causes of infinite switch failure — moisture gets into the switch body, corrodes or bridges the internal contacts, and the switch can end up stuck feeding power continuously even with the knob turned to off. If you suspect this, shut off power to the range immediately at the breaker rather than relying on the knob, since a shorted switch may not respond to it at all.
My burner works but only at high heat no matter where I turn the knob. Could it be something else?
The infinite switch is the most common cause, but it's worth a quick visual check first. Make sure the knob itself is properly seated on its shaft — a knob that's been pushed on at the wrong angle, or whose shaft has worn round, can make it feel like the switch isn't responding even though it is. If the knob is properly seated and turns smoothly through its full range but the heat output doesn't change, the switch's internal contacts have failed and replacement is the correct fix.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original 1,500W, 4.4–7.4A, 240V electrical rating and the heat-cycling behavior of the infinite switch originally installed for the 6-inch element in your GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore range.
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Genuine Whirlpool W10727360 Microwave Door Switch - Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Kenmore
Product Description
Ensure safe microwave operation with the Genuine Whirlpool W10727360 Microwave Door Switch. This OEM three-terminal switch is designed for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, and Kenmore microwaves, preventing operation when the door is open to protect users from radiation exposure. Crafted for precise fit and reliable performance, it restores functionality, addressing issues like the microwave not starting or running with the door open.
Note: Includes one three-terminal door switch. Disconnect power before installation. Professional installation is recommended due to microwave shielding requirements.
Replaces part numbers: W10727360, W10269457, 3379124, PD00026511, EAP10057151, AP5950105, PS10057151, W10727360VP.
Compatibility:
Compatible with models including but not limited to:
Whirlpool: WMH31017FB0, WMH31017HB0, WMH31017FS0, WMH31017FW0, WMH75021HZ0
Maytag: MMV4205FZ0, MMV6190FZ0
Amana: AMV2307PFS0
KitchenAid: KMHS120ESS0
Jenn-Air: JMV8208CS0
Kenmore: (select models, verify compatibility)
Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance.
Key Features:
✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, and Kenmore microwaves.
🔐 Specifications: OEM three-terminal door switch, approximately 1.5 inches with metal terminals, for precise safety control.
💪 Reliable Performance: Authentic Whirlpool part ensures long-lasting durability and safe operation.
🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires screwdriver and typically installed in 15–30 minutes by a professional.
🛡️ Effective Fixes: Resolves microwave not starting, intermittent stopping, running with door open, or unusual door noises.
Product Specification
Part Number: Genuine Whirlpool W10727360
Component Type: Microwave door switch (three-terminal)
Material: Plastic housing with metal terminals
Electrical: Compatible with 120V microwave circuits
Mounting: Screw-mounted with spring mechanism, typically located behind the control panel
Operating Conditions: Suitable for household microwave environments
Compliance: Prop 65 warning for California
Installation Notes:
Safety First: Disconnect the microwave from the power source before installation.
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WD26X25103 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Variable Wash Pump Kit
The WD26X25103 is a genuine GE OEM variable wash pump kit for premium GE, Café, GE Profile, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier dishwashers. The wash pump is the heart of the cleaning system — it draws filtered water from the sump and drives it under pressure through the lower spray arm, the middle spray arm, and the upper wash manifold. What makes this a variable pump is its variable-speed motor: instead of running at one fixed speed, the control board modulates pump speed throughout the cycle, ramping pressure up for heavy soil and down for delicate loads, and shifting flow between spray zones. That is why a failing variable pump often produces uneven results — the bottom rack comes out clean while the top rack is barely wet.
This is a complete kit, supplied with the circulation pump assembly and its integrated wiring harness, so you are not transferring connectors from the old unit. Typical failure modes include worn motor bearings that produce a loud humming or grinding during the wash portion of the cycle, a seized or debris-jammed impeller, a shaft seal that begins weeping water into the base pan and trips the flood switch, and electrical failure of the variable-speed motor windings. It directly replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, and EAP12730515. This is a moderate DIY repair — most people budget 1–2 hours.
Quick Answer
The WD26X25103 Genuine OEM GE Variable Wash Pump Kit fixes GE, Café, GE Profile, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier dishwashers with dishes that come out dirty or gritty, a top rack that isn't getting wet, weak or no spray arm rotation, loud humming or grinding during the wash cycle, or water pooling in the base pan from a leaking pump seal. Variable-speed motor; kit includes pump assembly plus integrated wiring harness. Replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, EAP12730515. Fits premium CDT865/CDT866, PDT845/PDT846/PDT855, and ZDT915/ZDT975 platforms — not the same pump as WD26X23258.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishes not getting clean — food soil, grit, or film left behind after a full cycle
Top rack not getting wet or not getting cleaned while the bottom rack washes normally
Spray arms turning slowly or not turning at all — insufficient water pressure
Loud humming, whining, or grinding noise during the wash portion of the cycle
Dishwasher runs a full cycle quietly with no audible water circulation
Water pooling in the base pan under the dishwasher from a leaking pump shaft seal
Flood switch or leak sensor tripping and shutting the dishwasher down mid-cycle
Cleaning performance that has gradually declined over months as bearings wear
Pump motor humming but the impeller not turning — seized shaft or jammed impeller
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher variable wash pump kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WD26X25103, WD26X22789, AGE25305, AP6973120, PD00054224, PS12730515, EAP12730515.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This variable wash pump kit is compatible with select premium built-in dishwashers from the following brands:
GE and GE Profile dishwashers (PDT845, PDT846, and PDT855 series)
Café dishwashers (CDT865 and CDT866 series)
Monogram dishwashers (ZDT915 and ZDT975 series)
Hotpoint dishwashers (select GE-built models)
Haier dishwashers (select GE-platform models)
Verified model numbers include: CDT865SSJ0SS, CDT865SSJ2SS, CDT865SMJ0DS, CDT865SMJ2DS, CDT866P2M4S1, CDT866P3M4D1, CDT866P4M4W2, PDT845SSJ0SS, PDT845SSJ2SS, PDT845SMJ0ES, PDT845SMJ2ES, PDT845SBL2TS, PDT845SBL3TS, PDT845SFL3DS, PDT846SSJ0SS, PDT846SSJ2SS, PDT846SMJ0ES, PDT846SMJ2ES, PDT855SSJ0SS, PDT855SSJ2SS, PDT855SMJ0ES, PDT855SMJ2ES, PDT855SIJ0II, PDT855SIJ2II, PDT855SBL2TS, PDT855SBL3TS, PDT855SFL3DS, ZDT915SSJ0SS, ZDT915SSJ2SS, ZDT915SIJ0II, ZDT915SIJ2II, ZDT915SPJ0SS, ZDT915SPJ2SS, ZDT975SSJ0SS, ZDT975SSJ2SS, ZDT975SIJ0II, ZDT975SIJ2II, ZDT975SPJ0SS, and ZDT975SPJ2SS.
Note: GE uses several different circulation pumps across its dishwasher lineup, and they are NOT interchangeable. The WD26X25103 is the variable-speed pump used on premium CDT/PDT/ZDT platforms. It is not the same part as the WD26X23258 circulation pump (GDT695/PDT825 platforms) or the WD26X22518 pump (PDF820/GDT535/ADT521 platforms). Fitting the wrong pump can result in a physical mismatch at the sump or a harness that will not mate with your control board. Always verify your full model number — including the suffix — before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified flow rate, impeller geometry, and motor control profile
Variable-speed motor allows the control board to modulate wash pressure by cycle and soil level rather than running at one fixed speed
Complete kit — includes the circulation pump assembly and integrated wiring harness, so no connectors need to be transferred from the old pump
Drives water through the lower spray arm, middle spray arm, and upper wash manifold
Resolves "dishes not clean," "top rack not getting wet," "spray arms not turning," "loud humming or grinding," and "water in the base pan" symptoms caused by pump failure
Sealed shaft design protects the motor from sump water intrusion
Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded WD26X22789 — no modifications required
Serves GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier premium dishwasher platforms
Replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, and EAP12730515
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WD26X25103
Part Type
Dishwasher Variable Wash Pump Kit (Circulation Pump)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE Appliances
Motor Type
Variable speed
Voltage
120V / 60 Hz
Function
Circulates water under pressure to the spray arms and upper wash manifold
Kit Contents
Wash pump assembly + integrated wiring harness
Location
Underneath the tub, mounted to the sump housing
Connections
2 hose clamps + 2 electrical connections
Supersedes
WD26X22789
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — 1 to 2 hours
Quantity
1 pump kit
Compatible Brands
GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, Haier
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power And Shut Off Water Before Starting Turn off the dishwasher's circuit breaker and close the hot water supply valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves — the tub edges and undercarriage brackets are sharp. Before condemning the pump, run a quick check: remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly, clear any glass chips, seeds, or labels from the sump, and confirm the spray arm ports are not blocked. A clogged filter screen produces the same "dishes not clean" complaint as a failing pump and costs nothing to rule out. To replace the pump, first remove the two screws securing the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop (or to the adjacent cabinets), disconnect the water line and drain hose, and slide the unit out. Most technicians then lay the dishwasher on its front or on its back to reach the pump — put a towel down to protect the door and finish. Photograph the hose routing and wiring before disconnecting anything. Release the two hose clamps and separate the two electrical connections, then unlock the pump from the sump housing — it typically twists to release from a bayonet-style mount — and lift it out. Inspect the sump gasket and seat while the pump is off; replace the gasket if it is hardened, flattened, or nicked. Install the new WD26X25103 in the same orientation, twist to lock, reattach both hoses with their clamps, and reconnect the harness. Reinstall the dishwasher, restore water and power, then run a full cycle and check underneath for leaks before pushing the unit all the way back and reattaching the mounting screws. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, pliers or hose clamp pliers, towel, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My top rack isn't getting clean but the bottom rack is fine. Is that the wash pump?
It's the signature symptom of a weakening wash pump, yes — but check two cheaper things first. The upper wash manifold and the middle spray arm are fed last and at the lowest pressure, so they are the first zones to suffer when pump output drops. However, a clogged filter screen or a spray arm with blocked ports will starve the upper rack the same way. Pull the lower spray arm and filter, rinse them under hot water, poke a toothpick through any blocked spray ports, and run a cycle. If the top rack is still dry or dirty after that, the variable pump is losing pressure and should be replaced.
What does "variable" mean on this pump, and does it matter?
It matters a great deal. A variable-speed pump lets the control board change pump speed during the cycle — higher pressure for heavy soil, lower for delicate loads, and different speeds when directing flow to different spray zones. A fixed-speed pump cannot do that. This is why you cannot substitute a standard circulation pump from another GE platform even if it physically resembles this one: the control board expects a variable-speed motor and will not drive a fixed-speed unit correctly.
The dishwasher is making a loud grinding noise. Do I need the whole pump?
Not always — check for foreign objects first. Glass chips, fruit pits, bones, and hard plastic bits routinely get past the filter and rattle inside the pump housing or wedge against the impeller. Remove the filter assembly and inspect the sump thoroughly with a flashlight. If the sump is clean and the noise is a steady hum or grind that rises with the wash cycle, the pump's motor bearings are worn and the complete kit is the correct repair. Bearing noise does not improve on its own and usually precedes a shaft seal leak.
I found water in the pan underneath the dishwasher. Could the pump cause that?
Yes. When the pump's shaft seal wears out, it weeps water down onto the base pan during every wash cycle. GE dishwashers have a flood switch in that pan, so the machine will eventually detect the water and shut itself down mid-cycle or refuse to start. Before ordering, confirm the water is coming from the pump and not from a loose hose clamp, a cracked sump, or the door gasket — dry the pan completely, run a short cycle, and watch where the first drops appear.
Does this kit include everything, or do I need to reuse parts from the old pump?
The kit ships with the wash pump assembly and its integrated wiring harness, so you will not need to cut, splice, or transfer the electrical connector from your old pump. You will reuse your existing hoses and clamps. Inspect the sump gasket while the pump is out and replace it if it looks hardened, flattened, or nicked — a tired gasket is a common cause of a "new pump that still leaks."
What's the difference between WD26X25103 and WD26X22789?
They are the same pump across production revisions. WD26X22789 was the earlier number and WD26X25103 is the current GE part number that supersedes it. If your dishwasher's parts diagram shows WD26X22789, this listing is the correct replacement — order it with confidence. The additional cross-references (AP6973120, PS12730515, EAP12730515) are catalog identifiers used by various parts distributors for the same kit.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original variable-speed motor profile, impeller geometry, flow rate, sump mounting interface, and harness connector of the pump originally installed in your dishwasher, which is important on this platform because the control board is calibrated to drive a variable-speed pump.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO W11366438 Range Surface Burner Knob
Product Overview
The XPARTCO W11366438 Range Surface Burner Knob is designed to control the heat level of your stove burners with precision. This high-quality replacement knob restores smooth operation and enhances the appearance of your cooktop.
Quick Answer
If your stove knob is cracked, loose, missing, or difficult to turn, the W11366438 burner knob is likely worn out. Replacing it restores proper burner control and usability.
Replaces Part Numbers
Replaces OEM part number: W11366438, W11084623, 4929319, W11359382, W11505414, EAP12723935, AWP44385, PD00054489, AP6888134, PS12723935.
Compatibility
This surface burner knob is compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, and other compatible ranges.
Whirlpool Ranges
Maytag Ranges
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Broken or cracked knob
Knob slipping or not engaging
Missing control knob
Difficulty adjusting burner heat
Key Features
Restores precise burner control
Easy push-on installation
High-quality aftermarket replacement
Durable construction for daily use
Product Specifications
Part Number: XPW11366438
Part Type: Range Surface Burner Knob
Brand: XPARTCO
Condition: New
OEM / Aftermarket: Aftermarket
Application: Range Burner Control
Troubleshooting Guide
Knob spins freely → Worn insert
Cannot adjust flame → Damaged knob
Knob falls off → Cracked fitting
When Should You Replace This Knob?
Replace this knob if it is cracked, loose, missing, or not functioning properly.
Installation Notes
⚠️ Ensure the appliance is off. Pull the old knob straight off and push the new knob firmly onto the control shaft.
Related Parts
Surface Burner Valve
Igniter Switch
Control Panel Overlay
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this knob fit my range?This knob fits many Whirlpool and compatible models. Always verify your model number.
Is installation difficult?No, this knob is typically push-on and easy to install.
What are signs of a bad knob?Cracks, slipping, or inability to control heat settings.
Is this OEM or aftermarket?This is a high-quality aftermarket replacement part.
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XPARTCO W10820036 Washer / Dryer Door Switch
The XPARTCO W10820036 is an aftermarket replacement door switch used on select Whirlpool-built combination washer/dryer units. This switch is a safety interlock: it detects whether the door is fully closed and latched, and it signals the control board that it is safe to run the motor, heater, and water valves. On a combo unit, this single interlock typically governs both the wash and dry portions of the cycle, since both functions share the same drum and door. If the switch fails to detect a closed door — or fails electrically even when the door is closed properly — the control will refuse to start the cycle, or will stop mid-cycle if the switch drops out while running.
Typical failure modes for a part like this include a cracked or worn switch lever that no longer depresses fully when the door closes, internal contacts that have pitted or burned out from years of cycling, and a housing that has come loose from its mounting bracket so the plunger no longer lines up with the door strike. A functioning door switch should click firmly when the door closes and should show continuity across its terminals only when the lever is pressed.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10820036 Washer/Dryer Door Switch is a door safety interlock switch for select Whirlpool-built combination washer/dryer units. It fixes units that won't start with the door closed, stop mid-cycle, or fail to register the door as closed even when it's latched properly. Note: this listing was built from general parts knowledge because current supplier and cross-reference data was not available at build time — see the note below before publishing.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer/dryer combo won't start even though the door is fully closed
Cycle stops partway through, as if the door had been opened
Door doesn't feel like it's "clicking" or latching the way it used to
Console shows a door-related error or won't advance past the door-closed step
Intermittent operation — sometimes starts, sometimes doesn't, depending on how the door is closed
Visibly cracked, loose, or broken switch housing or lever
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This door switch directly replaces the following OEM part number:
W10820036, 279347, 2-2770, 2-50062, 2-5415, 2020, 202770, 233480, 235462, 237194, 238775, 238980, 239868, 24198, 247207, 26000279347, 279290, 287219, 287220, 291679, 291697, 292212, 296141, 296144, 3347287, 338883, 3392266, 3397503, 3399991, 347207, 350526, 359230, 359484, 364090, 364091, 367034, 388322, 389105, 4273196, 4319330, 660308, 687429, 75958, 8224, 83333, 84144, 86628, 89556, 99788, 99838, LP210, AP5985146, AWP41434, EAP334185, PD00023982, PS11723153.
No additional cross-reference numbers have been confirmed for this part yet. If you have a superseded or alternate number for your appliance, contact our support team and we will verify compatibility before you order.
Compatibility
This door switch is intended for select Whirlpool-built washer/dryer combination units, where a single door and drum serve both the wash and dry functions.
Model list not yet confirmed: A specific compatible model list for W10820036 was not available at the time this page was built. Please verify your exact model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number and we will confirm fitment before you purchase.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement door safety switch for Whirlpool-built washer/dryer combo units
Detects whether the door is closed and latched before allowing the wash or dry cycle to run
Resolves "won't start with door closed," "stops mid-cycle," and "door not detected" symptoms
Direct drop-in replacement for the original W10820036 switch — no modification required
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW10820036
OEM Part Number
W10820036
Part Type
Washer/Dryer Combo Door Safety Switch
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Whirlpool-Built Washer/Dryer Combination Units
Function
Door-closed safety interlock for wash and dry cycles
Quantity
1 switch
Compatible Brand
Whirlpool (combo platform)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug The Unit Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access to the door switch on combo units is typically through the front or top control panel — photograph the wiring harness before disconnecting it so you can match it exactly on reassembly. Confirm the new switch's lever aligns with the door strike before securing the mounting screws, and test for a firm, positive click when the door closes before restoring power and running a cycle. If your unit's service manual is available, follow its specific access and mounting steps rather than relying solely on general guidance.
Frequently Asked Questions
My combo unit won't start. Is this definitely the door switch?
It's one of the most common causes when a unit refuses to start with the door visibly closed. Before replacing the switch, confirm the door is latching fully and that nothing (a stray sock, a bent strike bracket) is preventing it from closing all the way. If the door latches firmly but the unit still won't start, or a multimeter shows no continuity across the switch terminals when the lever is pressed, the switch itself is the likely culprit.
Does this switch control both the washer and dryer functions?
On combination washer/dryer units, yes — a single door and drum typically serve both functions, so one door switch acts as the safety interlock for both the wash and dry portions of the cycle.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the mounting, switching function, and door-interlock behavior of the original W10820036 switch used in compatible combination washer/dryer units.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat Replaces WP4449751
The XPARTCO 4449751 is an aftermarket replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails.
Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. It directly replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open
Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode)
Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food
Oven fails to start when powered on
Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes
Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity
Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature
F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel
Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature
Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands:
Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series)
Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS)
Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series
KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05)
Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series)
Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models)
Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02)
KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00)
Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series
Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models)
Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models)
Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire
Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range
Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response
Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549
Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens
Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units
Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat
For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit
Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
4449751
OEM Part Number
WP4449751
Part Type
Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform)
Trip Temperature
335°F (170°C)
Type
Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new 4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place?
A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open.
What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat?
These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement.
Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping?
The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement.
Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat?
This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem.
Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician?
Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the trip temperature (335°F / 170°C), auto-reset function, terminal configuration, and fit of the original WP4449751 high limit thermostat used in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens.
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XPARTCO W10913953 Washer Shift Actuator
The XPARTCO W10913953 is an aftermarket replacement washer shift actuator assembly compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper top-load washers with VM (variable motor) transmissions — including Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Centennial, and Maytag Bravos series. The shift actuator is a small synchronous gearmotor assembly located beneath the washer tub that controls how the transmission shifts between agitation mode and spin mode during the wash cycle. It moves the arm on the cam ring assembly to engage the basket (for spinning) or disengage it and engage only the agitator or wash plate (for agitation). The shift actuator also contains an internal tachometer that continuously reports the basket's rotational speed to the control board.
When the shift actuator fails — most commonly due to a stripped or broken gear inside the gearmotor — the washer may not agitate, not spin, get stuck in one phase of the cycle, display error codes F7E1 or F7E5, or produce a loud grinding or clicking noise as the gears fail. This 6-pin plug assembly is rated 120V, 60Hz, 4W with a synchronous motor running at 3 RPM clockwise rotation. It measures 4-1/4"L x 2-3/4"W x 1-7/8"H and directly replaces W10815026, W10597177, WPW10597177, 4455082, 49TYZ-E120A1, 50SM21-1-221B, AP6037270, and PS11769864. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10913953 Washer Shift Actuator fixes Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Centennial, and Maytag Bravos top-load washers that won't agitate, won't spin, display error codes F7E1 or F7E5, or make grinding/clicking noises when trying to shift cycles. 6-pin plug, 120V/60Hz/4W synchronous motor, 3 RPM CW, 4-1/4"L x 2-3/4"W x 1-7/8"H. Replaces W10815026, W10597177, WPW10597177, 4455082, 49TYZ-E120A1, AP6037270, PS11769864. Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper VM-transmission top-load washers.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not agitating — basket fills with water but agitator or wash plate does not move
Washer not spinning — cycle advances to spin but basket does not rotate
Washer getting stuck in one phase — completing wash or fill but not advancing to spin
Clothes soaking wet after a full cycle — washer is not reaching high-speed spin
Error codes F7E1 or F7E5 displayed — motor shift or basket speed sensing fault
Loud grinding, clicking, or buzzing noise during cycle transitions between agitate and spin
Washer pumping normally but basket not spinning after draining
Replaces Part Numbers
This shift actuator directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10913953, W10815026, 4455082, 49TYZ-E120A1, 50SM21-1-221B, KT-155867_rev011, EAP11769864, AP6037270, AWP42172, PD00032232, PS11769864.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This shift actuator is compatible with select top-load washers with VM transmissions from the following brands and series:
Whirlpool top-load washers — Cabrio series (WTW5000, WTW4816, WTW4850, WTW4915, WTW4950, WTW4955 and related models)
Maytag top-load washers — Centennial series (MVWC215, MVWC415, MVWC416, MVWC465, MVWC555, MVWC565 and related models)
Maytag top-load washers — Bravos series (MVWX655 and related models)
Kenmore / Sears top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Amana top-load washers — NTW series (NTW4516, NTW4655 and related models)
Crosley top-load washers (select models)
Inglis top-load washers (select models)
Roper top-load washers (select models)
Note: The W10913953 is for VM (variable motor) transmission top-load washers. It is not compatible with older Whirlpool top-load washers using a different transmission type. Always verify your model number before ordering. The shift actuator works in conjunction with the pulley clutch kit (W10721967 / W10006384) — if the actuator is good but the issue persists, the clutch kit should also be inspected.
Key Features
Controls transmission shifting between agitation mode and spin mode during the wash cycle
Moves the cam ring arm to engage the basket for spinning, or disengage it to allow only the agitator/wash plate to move
Integrated tachometer — continuously reports basket rotational speed to the control board for cycle management
Synchronous gearmotor — 120V, 60Hz, 4W, 3 RPM clockwise rotation
6-pin plug connector — direct plug-in installation on compatible models
Dimensions: 4-1/4"L x 2-3/4"W x 1-7/8"H
Resolves F7E1 and F7E5 error codes on compatible Whirlpool and Maytag top-load washers
Replaces W10815026, W10597177, WPW10597177, 4455082, 49TYZ-E120A1, and AP6037270
Compatible with Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Centennial, Maytag Bravos, Amana NTW, and Kenmore VM-transmission top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10913953
Also Replaces
W10815026, W10597177 (prior versions)
Part Type
Washer Shift Actuator Assembly (Mode Shift Actuator)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Top-Load Washers with VM Transmission (Cabrio, Centennial, Bravos)
Motor Type
Synchronous gearmotor
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
60 Hz
Wattage
4W
Speed
3 RPM, clockwise rotation
Connector
6-pin plug
Dimensions
4-1/4"L x 2-3/4"W x 1-7/8"H
Includes
Integrated tachometer for basket speed sensing
Error Codes Resolved
F7E1, F7E5
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Roper
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning. The shift actuator is located beneath the washer tub on the drive shaft assembly. To access it, remove the washer cabinet by unscrewing the top panel and releasing the front panel, or lay the washer on its back if your model requires it. The shift actuator is mounted to the bottom of the drive shaft assembly with mounting screws and connects to the washer's control harness via a 6-pin plug. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Remove the mounting screws, disconnect the 6-pin harness, and slide the old actuator off the shaft. Install the new W10913953 actuator in the same position and orientation, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the 6-pin harness. Reassemble the cabinet, restore power and water, and run a test cycle through both agitation and spin to confirm normal operation. Note: if grinding noise continues after replacing the actuator, inspect the pulley clutch kit (W10721967 / W10006384) for wear. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, Torx screwdriver (T20 on some models).
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the shift actuator do in a top-load washer?
The shift actuator is a small synchronous gearmotor that controls the transmission shifting in Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Centennial, and Bravos-style VM-transmission top-load washers. During a wash cycle, the control board signals the actuator to move the cam ring arm — this engages or disengages the drive connection between the motor and the basket. When the cam moves one way, only the agitator or wash plate moves (agitation mode). When it moves the other way, the basket engages and spins at high speed (spin mode). The actuator also contains a tachometer that tells the control board how fast the basket is rotating, which the board uses to manage spin speed and detect imbalance.
What are error codes F7E1 and F7E5?
On compatible Whirlpool Cabrio and Maytag Centennial/Bravos top-load washers, F7E1 indicates a motor shift error — the actuator failed to complete the shift between agitate and spin mode within the expected time. F7E5 indicates a basket speed sensing fault — the tachometer inside the actuator is not providing a valid speed signal to the control board. Both codes are commonly caused by a failed shift actuator, though a failed drive motor, clutch assembly, or control board can also produce these codes. Replacing the shift actuator resolves both error codes in most cases.
Should I also check the pulley clutch kit?
Yes — if the shift actuator is replaced but the grinding noise persists, or if the washer still does not agitate or spin properly after the new actuator is installed, inspect the pulley clutch kit (W10721967 / W10006384). The clutch kit is a separate assembly that works in conjunction with the shift actuator to engage the drum. A worn or stripped clutch can produce the same symptoms as a failed actuator and is a common companion failure. Since the washer is already disassembled to replace the actuator, it is a good opportunity to inspect the clutch for wear.
What is the difference between W10913953 and W10815026?
The W10815026 was an earlier version of this shift actuator, and the W10913953 is the updated current replacement. Both are the same functional component — Whirlpool updated the part number during a production revision. The W10597177 and WPW10597177 are also cross-references for this same actuator. If your washer's parts diagram shows any of these older numbers, the W10913953 is the correct current replacement to order.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured with a synchronous gearmotor and ABS housing to match the electrical specifications and dimensions of the original W10913953 shift actuator.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
3204267 Dryer Genuine High-Limit Thermostat
Replaces Part Numbers: 3204267, 145160, 508516, 73204267, AH446428, EA446428, OEM8525910, AP2131477, PS446428, WE4X757, WE04X0757, WE04X10002, WE4X10002, AH268202, EA268202, OEM8171210, AP2042802, PS268202.
Description: This High Limit Thermostat is a Genuine part for specific Frigidaire, GE dryer models. It serves as a critical safety device, designed to cut off the power to the heating element if the dryer overheats. This thermostat helps prevent potential fire hazards by maintaining a safe operating temperature within the dryer.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
