XPARTCO 3949238 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP3949238
The XPARTCO 3949238 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly for Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore models. This switch confirms the lid is closed before the washer will spin — a pin on the underside of the lid pushes against the switch's lever, telling the machine it's safe to proceed with the cycle.
Includes a 3-wire lead and a metal shield for added durability. Over time, the switch's internal contacts can wear out or fail electrically. If your washer will agitate but won't spin, this switch is a strong candidate for the cause. Symptoms of a failing lid switch include the washer not spinning, not draining, not starting, not agitating, the cycle failing to advance, or the lid not closing properly. It directly replaces WP3949238, 3949238, WP3949238VP, 10800-61, AP6008880, AWP47911, EAP11742021, OEM18026649, PD00002488, PS11742021.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 3949238 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool and Kenmore top-load washers that won't spin, won't drain, won't start, won't agitate, won't advance through the cycle, or have a lid that won't close properly. Includes 3-wire lead, metal shield. Replaces WP3949238, 3949238, WP3949238VP, 10800-61, AP6008880, AWP47911, EAP11742021, OEM18026649, PD00002488, PS11742021. If your washer agitates fine but won't spin, that's the classic symptom pointing to this switch.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not spinning
Washer not draining
Washer not starting
Washer not agitating
Cycle not advancing
Lid or door won't close properly
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP3949238, 3949238, WP3949238VP, 10800-61, AP6008880, AWP47911, EAP11742021, OEM18026649, PD00002488, PS11742021
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore washers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as 11015732400, 11015842400, 11015852400, 11020692000, 11020602992, 11020612990, 11020612991, 11020622990, 11020622991, 11020632990, 11020632991, 11020642990, 11020642991, 11021894000, 11022292100, 11022294100, 11022422100, 11022432100, 11022442100, 11022622100, 11022632100, 11022642100, 11022652100, 11022662100, 11022692100, 11022692101, 11022702100, 11022702101, 11022712100, 11022722100, and 11022722101.
Note — not the same as 3949247: A similarly-numbered switch, 3949247, is a separate part used on different models. Whirlpool also uses several other distinct lid switch designs, including the direct-drive style (8318084) and the thin-twin style (3355806), which are not interchangeable with this switch. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch your washer needs.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly — confirms the lid is closed before allowing the washer to spin
Resolves "won't spin," "won't drain," "won't start," "won't agitate," "cycle not advancing," and "lid won't close" symptoms
3-wire lead with metal shield for added durability
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original mounting and connection
Replaces WP3949238, 3949238, WP3949238VP, 10800-61, AP6008880, AWP47911, EAP11742021, OEM18026649, PD00002488, PS11742021
Compatible with Whirlpool and Kenmore top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Requires basic hand tools, some disassembly, novice repair experience
Product Specifications
Part Number
3949238
OEM Part Number
WP3949238
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Wiring
3-wire lead
Shield
Metal
Function
Confirms lid is closed before allowing the washer to spin
Repair Difficulty
Easy — basic hand tools, novice repair experience
Quantity
1 lid switch assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Unplug your washer and turn off the water supply before you begin — make sure both the hot and cold water supplies are shut off. Remove the screws located on the back of the washer cabinet, usually located at the top of the access panel. Lift or tilt the top of the washer to access the lid switch, typically mounted near the lid opening. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire connectors from the old switch and remove the mounting screws securing it in place. Install the new 3949238 in the same position, reconnect the wire connectors fully, and secure the mounting screws. Reassemble the washer cabinet and secure its screws. Restore power and water, then run a test cycle with the lid closed to confirm the washer spins normally. Tools needed: multi screwdriver.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer agitates but won't spin. Is this the part I need?
Yes, this is the classic and most reliable symptom of a failed lid switch. This switch confirms to the washer's control system that the lid is closed before allowing the spin cycle to run — a failed switch commonly still allows agitation while preventing spin, since spin specifically requires the lid-closed signal.
Is this the same as the 3949247 switch I've seen listed nearby?
No, these are separate lid switch part numbers, despite the similar numbering. 3949247 is used on different models. Always confirm your exact part number from your washer's parts diagram or the sticker on your old switch before ordering.
Is this a difficult repair?
No, this is a straightforward repair requiring basic hand tools and some cabinet disassembly, suitable for a novice DIYer. A multi screwdriver is typically all that's needed.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the wiring, mounting, and switching function of the original WP3949238 lid switch assembly used in compatible Whirlpool and Kenmore top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO EXP497 Microwave Door Switch (Normally Open)
The XPARTCO EXP497 is an aftermarket replacement Normally Open (NO) microwave door interlock switch compatible with a wide range of GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Panasonic, and Sharp microwaves. The door interlock switch is one of several safety switches in the microwave door system. It allows the microwave to operate only when the door is fully closed — when the door closes, the switch is mechanically activated, completing the circuit and signaling the control board that it's safe for the magnetron to fire. When the door is open, the switch is released and the circuit is broken, preventing the microwave from generating microwave radiation.
This switch is rated for 16A at 125/250V AC, giving it the heavy-load capacity required for microwave door safety circuits. It directly replaces an extensive list of cross-reference part numbers from multiple manufacturers, including 3B73362F, SZM-V16-FA-63, WB24X816, WB24X829, WB24X10180, 6600W1K003C, WP56001036, 5304408938, AP4437957, PS3522738, and dozens more. Important: confirm your original switch is a Normally Open (NO) type before ordering — this part will not replace Normally Closed (NC) or COM-style switches. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO EXP497 Microwave Door Switch (Normally Open) fixes microwaves that won't start, won't heat, stop mid-cycle, or won't shut off when the door opens. Universal-fit Normally Open (NO) interlock switch, 16A at 125/250V AC. Replaces 3B73362F, SZM-V16-FA-63, WB24X816, WB24X829, WB24X10180, 6600W1K003C, WP56001036, 5304408938, AP4437957, PS3522738 (and many more). Compatible with GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Panasonic, and Sharp microwaves. Important: confirm your original switch is "Normally Open" before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Microwave won't start when the door is closed and the start button is pressed
Microwave runs but produces no heat — turntable spins, light works, but food doesn't warm
Microwave starts and then immediately stops mid-cycle
Microwave continues running with the door open (unsafe failure mode — replace immediately)
Intermittent start failure — works sometimes, doesn't work other times
Door switch button visibly stuck, broken, or fails to click when pressed
Multimeter continuity test on the switch shows it doesn't change state when actuated
Replaces Part Numbers
This Normally Open microwave door switch directly replaces an extensive list of OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
3B73362F, 3B73362E, 6600W1K003D, 6600W1K004C, 6600W1K004F, AH3522738, EA3522738, AP4437957, PS3522738, WB24X816, WB24X0816, AP2024324, QSWMA085WRE0, QSWMA168WRZZ, WB24X10180, AH2370055, EA2370055, AP4484237, PS2370055, 00606693, 00415824, 1386418, 35-00-780, 415824, 606693, AH3477005, EA3477005, PS3477005, AP4070531, PS8726630, 00633795, 00415825, 35-00-781, 415825, 4162223, AP5952985, PS10060855, WB23X10019, 1810578, AH3486591, EA3486591, AP4980343, PS3486591, WB24X10204, WB24X10148, WB24X28940, 251201600929, 3025958, AP5790848, PS8754454, 5304408938, 5304430284, 639405, AH471434, EA471434, AP2151217, PS471434, WB24X10047, WB24X10029, WB24X0815, WB24X10072, WB24X10113, WB24X815, AH237015, EA237015, AP2622452, PS237015, 5304408938, 5304430284, 639405, AH471434, EA471434, AP2151217, PS471434, 5304423463, 892734, AH472733, EA472733, AP2151744, PS472733, 5304493153, 5304440026, 3018427, 5303319558, 5304467694, 75304440026, 75304467694, AP5804011, PS8769124, WB24X10139 1086028, AH953555, EA953555, PS953555, AP3792702, WB24X10140 AH953556, EA953556, AP3792654, PS953556, WB24X829, WB24X10038, WB24X368, WB24X384, WB24X414, WB24X426, WB24X439, WB24X441, WB24X445, WB24X796, WB24X5228, WB24X796, AP2024337, AH237421, EA237421, PS237421, WP56001036, 56001036, 0053464, R0654097, AP6009674, PS11742843, 3405-001034, 3405-000178, 111698, 2028597, AP4044834, PS4131192, WB24X823, WB24X0820, WB24X0823, WB24X820, AH237415, EA237415, AP2024331, PS237415, 5304509460, 5304520020, 5304464099, 4583656, AP6230615, PS12071303, WB24X28941, AH1019163, EA1019163, MW-7100-33, AP3866977, PS1019163, 5304493153, 5304440026, 3018427, 5303319558, 5304467694, 75304440026, 75304467694, AP5804011, PS8769124, D3V-16G-3C25, SZM-V16-FA63.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This Normally Open door switch is compatible with select microwaves from a wide range of brands:
GE microwaves (countertop, over-the-range, and built-in models)
Whirlpool microwaves
Samsung microwaves
LG microwaves — MV, LMV, LMH, MQ, MS, LMA, LMVM series (MV1560M, MV1310W, MV1560T, LMV1625B, LMA2112WT, MS1443ASV, LMH1017CVST and many more)
Frigidaire microwaves
Kenmore / Sears microwaves (multi-brand built models)
Panasonic microwaves
Sharp microwaves
Bosch microwaves (select models — cross-references 00606693, 00633795)
Important — Confirm Switch Type Before Ordering: This is a Normally Open (NO) switch. Microwaves typically use 2–3 door switches: one Normally Open and one or two Normally Closed/COM. They are not interchangeable. Inspect your original switch's markings or test it with a multimeter before ordering — if your failed switch is Normally Closed, you need the EXP499 instead. If you're unsure, contact our support team with your microwave model number.
Key Features
Normally Open (NO) microwave door interlock switch — closes the circuit when the door is closed, allowing the microwave to operate
Rated 16A at 125/250V AC — heavy-duty capacity for microwave door safety circuits
Universal fit — replaces door switches from GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Panasonic, Sharp, and Bosch
Replaces 50+ OEM and aftermarket cross-reference part numbers across multiple appliance brands
Common alternate part numbers include 3B73362F, SZM-V16-FA-63, D3V-16G-3C25, AP4437957, and PS3522738
Important: verify your switch is Normally Open before ordering — NOT a replacement for Normally Closed (use EXP499) or COM-style switches
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
EXP497
Part Type
Microwave Door Interlock Switch (Normally Open)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Microwaves (cross-brand)
Switch Type
Normally Open (NO)
Max Current
16A
Voltage Rating
125/250V AC
Common OEM Equivalents
3B73362F, SZM-V16-FA-63, D3V-16G-3C25
Compatible Brands
GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Panasonic, Sharp, Bosch
Installation Notes
⚠️ High-Voltage Safety Warning — Microwave Capacitor Microwaves contain a high-voltage capacitor that can hold a lethal electrical charge even after the appliance is unplugged. Before opening the microwave cabinet to access the door switches, always unplug the unit and discharge the high-voltage capacitor using proper safety procedure (with an insulated screwdriver across the capacitor terminals while wearing insulated gloves). If you are not familiar with safely discharging a microwave capacitor, have this repair done by a qualified technician.
⚠️ Wear Work Gloves — Identify Switch Position Before Removing Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. After safely discharging the high-voltage capacitor, remove the microwave's outer cabinet or control panel as needed to access the door interlock switch assembly — typically located behind the right side of the door frame on most microwaves. Take a photo of all switch positions and wire connections before disconnecting anything. Microwaves usually have 2–3 switches in the door interlock assembly: confirm which one is the Normally Open switch (the EXP497 fits this position only). Disconnect the wires from the old switch — make a note of which wire goes where. Release the switch from its mounting tabs and pull it free. Install the new EXP497 in the same position with the same wire connections. Reassemble the cabinet, restore power, and test the microwave by closing the door and confirming it starts and heats normally, then opening the door and confirming it shuts off immediately. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves, insulated tools (for capacitor discharge).
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between a Normally Open and Normally Closed microwave door switch?
Microwave door interlock systems use both types together to provide redundant safety. A Normally Open (NO) switch — like the EXP497 — has open contacts at rest; when the door closes and pushes the switch button, the contacts close to complete a circuit, signaling "door closed." A Normally Closed (NC) switch is the opposite — contacts are closed at rest and open when the door pushes the button. Most microwaves use one or more of each type wired together so the control system can confirm the door is genuinely closed from multiple inputs. They are not interchangeable — you must replace each switch with the same type. If your switch is NC, order the EXP499 instead.
How do I know if I need the Normally Open or Normally Closed switch?
The easiest way is to read the part number printed on the side of the failed switch and compare it to the cross-reference lists for the EXP497 (Normally Open) versus the EXP499 (Normally Closed). If the markings are unreadable, you can also test the switch with a multimeter set to continuity mode: with the switch at rest (button released), a Normally Open switch reads open (no continuity) and a Normally Closed switch reads closed (continuity). Replacing each switch with the same type is essential — installing the wrong type can prevent the microwave from starting or create unsafe conditions.
My microwave runs but doesn't heat — could this be the door switch?
Yes — this is one of the most recognizable symptoms of a failed door switch in a multi-switch interlock system. A microwave that turns on (light, fan, turntable) but does not heat often has a failed door switch in one of the door positions while the others continue to work. The control system may allow the auxiliary components to run but blocks the magnetron from firing without confirmation from all switches. Check all door switches systematically — one Amazon review noted a customer needed three identical switches to fully repair their microwave because the third switch (at the top of the door) was the actual cause of the no-heat condition. Replacing all door switches together is a common approach.
My microwave keeps running with the door open — what should I do?
This is a serious safety concern. Disconnect power to the microwave immediately and do not use it until the door switch is replaced. A microwave that continues to run with the door open exposes you to microwave radiation, which can cause serious injury. This usually indicates one or more door switches are stuck in the "door closed" position. Replace the failed switches with matching NO or NC type (EXP497 for NO, EXP499 for NC) before using the microwave again.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a manufacturer-branded OEM switch from any single brand, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, contact configuration, and 16A/125-250V AC rating of the dozens of OEM door switches it cross-references across multiple appliance brands.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO W10810403 Washer Lid Switch Assembly
The XPARTCO W10810403 is an aftermarket replacement lid lock assembly for Whirlpool Cabrio and Maytag Bravos XL top-load washers. Positioned on the underside of the washer lid, this assembly detects whether the lid is open or closed and locks it shut during the wash cycle, preventing the washer from spinning or agitating — and preventing the lid from being opened — while the cycle is running. This is a safety mechanism as much as a functional one, keeping users from contacting moving parts or being splashed by water or detergent mid-cycle.
This assembly includes the lid lock mechanism and its wiring harness, and ships with a white bezel. Many of these lid locks also contain an internal fuse as part of the switch circuit — if that fuse blows, the symptom isn't limited to lid-related errors; it can prevent the entire control board from powering up at all, since the switch sits in the same circuit path. A failing lid lock typically shows up as the lid not closing or locking properly, the washer failing to start, the cycle stopping mid-way, or in more severe cases, a completely unresponsive control panel with no lights at all. It directly replaces AP5984435, PS11722981, W10648012, W10787878, W10697793, W10787880, AP5999414, and PS11731620.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10810403 Washer Lid Switch Assembly fixes Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravos XL, and select Kenmore 600/700 Series top-load washers where the lid won't lock, the washer won't start, the cycle stops mid-way, or the control panel is completely unresponsive with no lights. White bezel. Replaces AP5984435, PS11722981, W10648012, W10787878, W10697793, W10787880, AP5999414, PS11731620. If your original lock has a grey bezel, you need part number W10861642 instead — same mechanism, different bezel color, so match the color of your existing lock before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Lid won't lock or lock reliably during the cycle
Lid won't open after a cycle finishes
Washer won't start
Washer won't agitate or spin because the lid isn't sensed as locked
Cycle stops partway through
Washer pumps but won't spin
Control panel completely unresponsive with no lights, potentially from an internal fuse in the switch circuit
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10810403, 4283179, W10632841, W10637463, W10648012, W10787836, W10787878, AP5984435, AWP41491, EAP11722981, PD00028176, PS11722981
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select Whirlpool Cabrio and Maytag Bravos XL top-load washers, and also fits select Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Jenn-Air, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Amana, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Caloric, and Ikea washers built on the same platform, including model numbers such as MVWB855DW1, MVWB865GW1, MVWB835DW3, and MVWB765FW4.
Note — bezel color and lid lock platform both matter: This assembly has a white bezel. If your original lock has a grey bezel, order W10861642 instead — same lock mechanism, different bezel color. Separately, Whirlpool has used several distinct lid lock designs across its Cabrio-era washer lineup, including a different 3-wire electronic lock (our W11670519 listing) used on other Cabrio/MVW models. These are not the same part despite both serving Cabrio-platform washers. Always verify your full model number and match your original lock's exact part number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement lid lock assembly — includes the lock mechanism and wiring harness
Resolves "lid won't lock," "washer won't start," "cycle stops mid-way," and "unresponsive control panel" symptoms
White bezel finish
Safety mechanism that prevents lid opening and drum movement from occurring at the same time
Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the original position on the underside of the lid
Replaces W10810403, 4283179, W10632841, W10637463, W10648012, W10787836, W10787878, AP5984435, AWP41491, EAP11722981, PD00028176, PS11722981
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Jenn-Air, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Amana, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Caloric, and Ikea top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW10810403
OEM Part Number
W10810403
Part Type
Washer Lid Lock/Switch Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Whirlpool Cabrio / Maytag Bravos XL Top-Load Washers
Bezel Color
White (grey bezel = W10861642)
Included Components
Lid lock mechanism + wiring harness
Location
Underside of the washer lid
Repair Difficulty
Easy — basic hand tools
Quantity
1 lid switch assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Jenn-Air, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Amana, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Caloric, Ikea
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Open the washer lid and locate the lid lock assembly mounted on its underside, typically secured with a couple of screws. Photograph the wiring harness connection before disconnecting anything. Remove the mounting screws, disconnect the wiring harness connector from the old assembly, and pull it free. Install the new W10810403 in the same position, reconnect the wiring harness connector fully, and secure the mounting screws. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm the lid locks securely, the washer starts and completes a full cycle, and the lid unlocks normally once finished. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My control panel has no lights at all. Could the lid lock really cause that?
Yes, and this is a less obvious but documented cause. Some of these lid lock assemblies include an internal fuse as part of the switch circuit. If that fuse blows, it can prevent the control board from powering up entirely, producing a completely dark, unresponsive panel rather than a symptom that's obviously tied to the lid. If your washer has no lights and no response at all, this lock assembly is worth checking alongside the more obvious suspects.
My old lock has a grey bezel. Can I still use this part?
This specific listing has a white bezel. If your original lock is grey, order part number W10861642 instead — it's the same lock mechanism, just finished with a grey bezel to match certain washer trim colors. Using the wrong bezel color won't affect function, but it will look mismatched against your washer's lid.
Is this the same lock used on all Cabrio washers?
No — Whirlpool has used more than one lid lock design across its Cabrio-era lineup. This W10810403 is a distinct assembly from other Cabrio/MVW-platform locks, such as our W11670519 listing, which uses a different 3-wire electronic locking design. Always match your exact original part number rather than assuming any "Cabrio lock" will fit, since the mounting and electrical interface can differ between designs.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the locking mechanism, wiring harness, and bezel design of the original W10810403 lid lock assembly used in compatible Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravos XL, and related top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
The W11434044 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher water inlet valve assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher and connects to the household cold water supply line. When the control board calls for water during the fill cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely when the correct water level is reached. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't get water into the tub — meaning it can't wash, rinse, or complete a cycle.
Rated 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximate dimensions: 2.9" H x 2.3" W with a 0.9" threaded orifice for the water supply connection. The package includes the water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and two hose clamps — everything needed for the connection between the valve and the dishwasher's water divider. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11434044 directly replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908. Important: the water inlet connection uses plastic threads, which are easily damaged by over-tightening or cross-threading — hand-tighten the water line carefully during installation. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, aren't washing properly, drain immediately after filling, or leak at the valve. 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximately 2.9"H x 2.3"W. Genuine OEM. Includes inlet valve, water outlet pipe, and 2 hose clamps. Replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, PS16217908. Compatible with WDT750SAKZ, KDTM404KPS, MDB4949SKZ, WDTA50SAKZ, KDTE204KPS, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024, WDT740SAL, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK series and related models. Plastic-thread inlet connection — hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Dishwasher filling too slowly — valve partially clogged with sediment or weak solenoid
Dishes not being washed properly due to insufficient water fill
Dishwasher fills but doesn't reach normal water level
Water leaking from the valve body or its connections
Dishwasher continuously running water even when the cycle should be complete — valve stuck open
Dishwasher won't advance past the fill phase due to insufficient water detection
Excessive cycle times as the dishwasher tries to fill from a partially clogged valve
Multimeter test on the valve solenoid shows no continuity
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11434044, W11025970, W11025972, W11187724, AP6987233, AWP44732, EAP16217908, PD00064823, PS16217908.
W11434044 is the current OEM production part superseding W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDPA70SAMZ0, WDPA70SAMZ2, WDPA70SAMZ3, WDPS7024RV0, WDPS7024RZ0 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT740SALB2, WDT740SALB3, WDT740SALW2, WDT740SALW3, WDT740SALZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT750SAKB0/B2/B3, WDT750SAKV0/V2/V3, WDT750SAKW0/W2/W3, WDT750SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT751SAPZ0, WDT751SAPZ1 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT970SAKV2, WDT970SAKV3, WDT970SAKZ2, WDT970SAKZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDTA50SAKB0/B2/B3, WDTA50SAKT0/T2/T3, WDTA50SAKV0/V2/V3, WDTA50SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
KitchenAid dishwashers — KDTM404KPS, KDTE204KPS and related models
Maytag dishwashers — MDB4949SKZ and related models
JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric — select Whirlpool-built dishwashers
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped
120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-platform dishwashers
Dimensions: approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W · 0.9" threaded orifice diameter
Includes water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and 2 hose clamps for a complete connection set
Current OEM production part — supersedes W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970
Also replaces AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908
Compatible with Whirlpool WDT740SAL, WDT750SAK, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK, WDTA50SAK, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024 series and select KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers
DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11434044
Supersedes
W11187724, W11025972, W11025970
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform)
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Wattage
6/5W
Dimensions
Approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W
Threaded Orifice Diameter
0.9"
Inlet Thread Material
Plastic (hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping)
Body Material
ABS Plastic / Stainless Steel
Includes
1x Inlet Valve, 1x Water Outlet Pipe, 2x Hose Clamps
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN PLASTIC THREADS Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply line and will spill when disconnected. Critical: the W11434044's water supply connection uses plastic threads. Multiple installers have reported stripping the plastic threads by over-tightening or cross-threading the water line during installation — always hand-tighten the fitting carefully and align the threads squarely before tightening. If your dishwasher is installed under a counter, working through the lower access panel is possible but tight — many installers find it easier to pull the dishwasher partially out from the cabinet, or lay it on its side, to reach the inlet connection cleanly (this also lets you use a 90-degree hose fitting without cross-threading). Remove the lower access panel (typically 2 screws) at the front bottom of the dishwasher. Locate the water inlet valve. Photograph the wire harness and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve. Squeeze the hose clamps with pliers and slide them back to release the outlet hose from the valve, then disconnect the wire harness plug. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place. Install the new W11434044 valve, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the outlet hose and hose clamps. Push the electrical connector's fixing plate firmly into place before connecting the wire harness plug — this prevents the connector from falling out during operation. Reconnect the household water supply — hand-tighten the fitting carefully to avoid stripping the plastic threads. Restore water and power. Run a test cycle and check for leaks at all connections. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench (used lightly on plastic threads only!), channel-lock pliers, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water — is the inlet valve the problem?
Very likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed dishwasher water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the household water supply to the dishwasher is turned on at the shutoff valve; 2) check the household water pressure at a nearby fixture (a nearby faucet) to make sure your home has normal pressure; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean but the dishwasher still won't fill, the W11434044 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue. You can also test the solenoid with a multimeter — no continuity means the solenoid has burned out.
What is the difference between W11434044 and W11025970/W11025972/W11187724?
These are the same water inlet valve across production revisions. W11025970 was the original OEM part number, W11025972 and W11187724 were mid-generation revisions, and W11434044 is the current OEM production version. All are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram or the part on your appliance shows any of these numbers, the W11434044 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers all of them.
Why is over-tightening the water line connection such a common issue?
The water supply inlet on the W11434044 has plastic threads to reduce cost and simplify manufacturing — but plastic threads are much less forgiving than brass or metal fittings. Cross-threading (starting the fitting at an angle instead of straight-in) or applying too much torque with a wrench will strip the plastic threads or split the fitting. Always align the water line fitting carefully by hand first, get several turns of engagement before applying any tool, and use only enough torque to snug the connection (typically hand-tight plus a very light quarter-turn with a wrench). If the threads are already stripped, the valve or a replacement plastic fitting will need to be ordered — the connection can't be repaired.
Should I lay the dishwasher on its side for this repair?
If you're finding it difficult to reach the water inlet connection cleanly through the lower access panel — which is a common complaint from installers — laying the dishwasher on its side (or pulling it partially out from the cabinet) makes the connection much easier to work with. This is especially helpful if your water supply line uses a 90-degree hose fitting that needs a straight approach for correct thread engagement. Before laying the dishwasher down, disconnect all connections and drain any residual water from the tub to avoid spills. Note that if the door has been damaged or bent, laying the unit on its side can worsen the damage — inspect first.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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Genuine OEM WPW10446920 Dryer Push-To-Start Switch
The Genuine OEM WPW10446920 is a factory-original push-to-start switch manufactured by Whirlpool for use in Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, Inglis, and other Whirlpool-built dryers that use a momentary push-button start control rather than a pull/rotary start knob. Pressing and releasing the button sends a signal to the timer or control board that begins the drying cycle; the switch itself does not stay latched, so the control electronics — not the switch — keep the dryer running after you let go.
When this switch fails, the dryer typically has power (the display and drum lights, if equipped, still work) but pressing Start does nothing, or the button feels mushy and requires several presses to register. As the genuine Whirlpool part, it ships with the exact factory-specified contacts, housing, and three-terminal wiring connector used on original production, so there's no fit or function guesswork. It directly replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WPW10446920 Dryer Push-To-Start Switch fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Inglis dryers that won't start when the Start button is pressed, even though the dryer otherwise has power. This is the factory-original Whirlpool switch — not an aftermarket equivalent — with a 3-terminal wiring connector. Replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857. Classic symptom: display and lights work, but pressing Start produces no response at all.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer won't start when the Start button is pressed
Start button feels loose, mushy, or requires multiple presses to register
Dryer has power (lights/display work) but the motor never engages
Intermittent starting — sometimes works, sometimes doesn't
Audible click from the button with no response from the dryer
Start switch visibly cracked, stuck, or not returning after being pressed
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This push-to-start switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10446920, W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This push-to-start switch is compatible with select Whirlpool-built dryers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dryers (including 7MWED1650EQ0, 7MWGD1750EQ0, 7MWGD1850EI0 and related models)
Maytag dryers (select Whirlpool-built models, including MED4005SW0, MGD4005SW0)
Amana dryers (select models, including NED4700YQ0, NGD4700YQ1)
Kenmore dryers (select Whirlpool-built models, including 11062332511, 11072332510)
Inglis, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Admiral dryers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Note: This switch is specific to dryers with a push-to-start button. It is not used on models with a rotary or pull-to-start knob — those use a different start switch design. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM push-to-start switch — factory-original fit, form, and function
Resolves "won't start," "mushy button," and "intermittent start" symptoms caused by switch failure
Momentary contact design — signals the timer/control board to begin the cycle
3-terminal wiring connector matching original factory harness
Direct-fit mounting to the original control panel opening
Replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Inglis dryers
Genuine OEM part — factory-specified materials and electrical rating
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10446920
OEM Part Number
WPW10446920
Part Type
Dryer Push-To-Start Switch
Condition
Genuine OEM Replacement
Switch Type
Momentary Push Button
Terminals
3-terminal wiring connector
Application
Push-To-Start Dryer Control Panels
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, Inglis
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting Disconnect power before beginning. Access the control panel — on most models this means removing a few screws along the top or rear of the console, or releasing spring clips, and tilting or lifting the panel to expose the back of the start switch. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the 3-terminal wiring connector from the old switch — note the connector orientation. Depress the retaining tabs or remove the mounting screw(s) holding the switch in the control panel and push it out from the back. Install the new WPW10446920 switch into the same opening until it snaps or seats into place. Reconnect the wiring connector, matching your photos. Reassemble the control panel and secure it with its screws or clips. Plug the dryer back in and test by pressing Start — confirm the dryer begins its cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips, if applicable).
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer has power but won't start when I press the button — is this the part?
This is the classic symptom of a failed push-to-start switch. If the display and any lights still work but pressing Start produces no response — not even a click or hum from the motor — the start switch is the most common cause. If you do hear a hum or click but the drum still doesn't turn, also check the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat, since a tripped thermal fuse can sometimes present with similar no-start symptoms.
Will this fit my dryer?
WPW10446920 and its cross-reference numbers fit a range of Whirlpool-built dryers across several brands, but only models with a push-to-start button — not a rotary or pull-to-start knob. Confirm fit using your dryer's exact model number before ordering, since the two start mechanisms are not interchangeable.
Is this a genuine Whirlpool part or an aftermarket equivalent?
This is the genuine, factory-original Whirlpool part — not an aftermarket equivalent. It ships with the same contacts, housing, and 3-terminal connector used in original production, so there's no guesswork on fit, feel, or electrical rating.
Do I need any special tools to install this?
No — just a Phillips screwdriver and, on some models, a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the control panel's spring clips. No soldering or wire splicing is required; the switch connects via its original 3-terminal plug.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO 35001191 Dryer Thermistor – Replaces WP35001191 – Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag & Kenmore Dryers
Product Description
Maintain accurate temperature control and efficient drying with the XPARTCO 35001191 Dryer Thermistor. This Dryer Thermistor is a replacement part for specific Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag dryer models, that is responsible for monitoring and controlling the temperature within the dryer drum. This sensor prevents overheating or under-heating, which can affect drying performance and fabric care. The thermistor communicates temperature readings to the dryer's control board, which then adjusts the heat accordingly to maintain the desired temperature settings.
Replaces Part Numbers
WP35001191, 35001191, 1185513, PD00003059, EAP11741828, AP6008688, PS11741828.
Compatibility
This replacement dryer thermistor fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, and Estate electric dryers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Whirlpool WED4815EW1, Maytag MEDC215EW1, Kenmore 110.65132411.
Always verify your dryer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Matches OEM temperature-sensing accuracy
🌡️ Precise Heat Regulation – Helps control dryer temperature efficiently
🔧 Reliable Sensor Performance – Sends accurate feedback to control board
💰 Cost-Effective Repair – Quality alternative to OEM thermistors
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves overheating, no heat, long dry times, or error codes
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: 35001191
Component Type: Dryer Thermistor / Temperature Sensor
Application: Exhaust temperature monitoring
Material: Heat-resistant sensor body with wire leads
Mounting: Screw-mounted on blower housing
Compliance: Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver
⚠️ Safety First: Always unplug the dryer before servicing to prevent electrical shock.
Steps:
Disconnect dryer power and remove the rear panel.
Locate the thermistor on the blower housing.
Disconnect the wiring harness and remove mounting screws.
Install the new XPARTCO 35001191 thermistor.
Reconnect wiring, reinstall panel, and restore power.
Run a test cycle to confirm proper temperature regulation.
⏱️ Time Required: 10–15 minutes
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XPARTCO DG44-01002A Surface Element Infinite Switch
The XPARTCO DG44-01002A is an aftermarket replacement dual element infinite switch (energy regulator) for Samsung electric ranges. This switch does two jobs at once: it regulates how much electrical current reaches its surface element, which is what lets you dial in a precise heat level rather than just on/off, and it also controls the "hot surface" indicator light associated with that burner, letting you know when the element is still hot after use.
Over time, the internal contacts in this switch can wear, stick, or fail electrically. Because a single switch controls both functions, a failing switch can produce two very different-looking symptoms depending on which function is affected: the burner may stay stuck on high heat regardless of the dial setting, fail to produce any heat at all, or the hot surface indicator light may stay on for hours after the surface has completely cooled, even though the element itself tests fine. It directly replaces 2087510, MDSA-W21-SKM, MDSA-W888-UNM, MDSA-W888-UM, AP4337066, PS4240803, and EAP4240803.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO DG44-01002A Surface Element Infinite Switch fixes Samsung electric ranges where a burner is stuck on high heat regardless of the dial setting, won't produce any heat at all, or the hot surface indicator light stays on for hours after the surface has cooled. Dual element design. Replaces 2087510, MDSA-W21-SKM, MDSA-W888-UNM, MDSA-W888-UM, AP4337066, PS4240803, EAP4240803. This switch controls both the element and its indicator light — if your indicator light won't turn off even though the burner is cool, this switch (not the element) is the cause.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Burner stuck on high heat regardless of the dial setting
Burner won't produce any heat at all
Hot surface indicator light stays on for hours after the burner has completely cooled
Inconsistent heating — burner doesn't hold the selected temperature level
Unresponsive burner controls
Burner that heats erratically rather than at a steady, selected level
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This range surface element infinite switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
DG44-01002A, 2087510, , MDSA-W21-SKM, PS4240803, AP4337066, EAP4240803, ASM37999, PD00006793, 737534552513
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This infinite switch is compatible with select Samsung electric ranges in the FCQ3, FE71, FER3, FTQ3, and NE59 series, including model numbers such as NE59J3420 and NE59J4310.
Note: This is the switch, not the radiant heating element itself — the companion element is a separate part, DG47-00022A. If you're diagnosing a burner problem, it's worth testing both parts, since either one failing can cause similar symptoms. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement dual element infinite switch (energy regulator)
Controls both the surface element's heat output and its hot surface indicator light
Resolves "stuck on high heat," "won't heat at all," and "indicator light stays on" symptoms caused by switch failure
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and wire connections
Replaces 2087510, MDSA-W21-SKM, MDSA-W888-UNM, MDSA-W888-UM, AP4337066, PS4240803, and EAP4240803
Compatible with Samsung electric ranges in the FCQ3, FE71, FER3, FTQ3, and NE59 series
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Straightforward DIY repair, typically 10 to 15 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPDG44-01002A
OEM Part Number
DG44-01002A
Part Type
Range Surface Element Infinite Switch (Energy Regulator)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Brand
Samsung
Design
Dual element
Function
Regulates surface element heat output; controls hot surface indicator light
Related Part
DG47-00022A radiant element (sold separately)
Repair Difficulty
Easy — 10 to 15 minutes
Quantity
1 infinite switch
Compatible Brand
Samsung
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Range Before Starting — Photograph Wiring Before Disconnecting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically from the rear of the control panel or the underside of the cooktop, depending on your model. Photograph the wiring connections on the old switch before disconnecting anything, since correct wire placement is essential for the switch to control the right burner and indicator light. Remove the screws securing the old switch, gently pry it out, and mark or note each wire's position for reference. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and remove it fully. Install the new DG44-01002A in the same position, reconnect each wire to its original terminal exactly as photographed, and secure the mounting screws. Restore power and test the burner across its full range of settings, confirming both the heat output and the indicator light behave correctly. Tools needed: screwdriver, pliers, pen or pencil for marking wires, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My hot surface light stays on for hours even though the burner has cooled down. Is this the switch?
Yes. This is a documented symptom specific to this switch, since it controls both the surface element and its indicator light together. If the light isn't going out even though the surface itself is cool to the touch, the switch — not the element — is the correct part to replace.
My burner is stuck on high heat no matter what setting I choose. Is that the switch or the element?
It could be either, so it's worth testing both with a multimeter before replacing. Test the radiant element first — it should read between 0 and 120 ohms if it's working correctly. Then test the infinite switch itself: remove it, connect a multimeter probe to each prong, and turn the switch to an on position. No continuity indicates the switch is the issue. Several customers have confirmed this exact symptom by swapping switches between two burners and watching the problem follow the switch, which is also a reliable way to isolate the cause if you have two dual-element burners.
Should I replace the element (DG47-00022A) at the same time?
Not necessarily, but it's worth testing both parts if you're not sure which one has failed, since a bad element and a bad switch can produce overlapping symptoms. If your multimeter tests confirm only the switch has failed, replacing just this part is sufficient.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Samsung OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dual-element switching function, wire terminal configuration, and mounting design of the original DG44-01002A infinite switch used in compatible Samsung electric ranges.
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(8 Pack) 3977394 Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit – Replaces 3977394 – Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and KitchenAid Dryers
Product Description
Protect your dryer from overheating with the 3977394 Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit. This high-quality aftermarket replacement shuts off the heating element if the dryer temperature rises above safe operating limits. A failed cut-off can cause no-heat issues or overheating during drying cycles. Installing this reliable 3977394 kit restores safe temperature control and helps prevent damage to internal components.
Replaces Part Numbers
XPTC352, 3977394, 352F
Compatibility
This replacement thermal cut-off kit fits select Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Roper, Estate, Crosley, and KitchenAid dryers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): Whirlpool WED4815EW1, Kenmore 110.86573110, and Maytag MEDC215EW1.
Always verify your dryer’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Matches OEM safety and temperature performance
🔥 Overheat Protection – Automatically shuts off power to the heating element if the dryer overheats
💰 Cost-Effective Fix – Affordable alternative to OEM thermal cut-off kits
🛠️ Easy Installation – Direct-fit design with included thermostats and connectors
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Solves dryer not heating, overheating, or shutting off prematurely
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: 3977394
Component Type: Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Includes: Thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, mounting hardware, and wire connectors
Temperature Rating: Cut-off opens at ~352°F.
Material: Metal thermostat housing and heat-resistant components
Compliance: Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Nut driver, Phillips screwdriver
⚠️ Safety First: Always unplug the dryer before performing any repairs to prevent electrical shock.
Steps:
Disconnect power and remove the rear dryer panel.
Locate the heating element housing and identify the cut-off and thermostat.
Disconnect wires and remove the old components.
Install the new 3977394 cut-off and thermostat in the same locations.
Reconnect wires, reassemble the back panel, and restore power.
Run a short test cycle to verify proper heating.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–25 minutes
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W10518394 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element
The W10518394 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher heating element compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and Kenmore Whirlpool-built dishwashers — including the WDF, WDT, ADB, and related series. The heating element is mounted at the bottom of the dishwasher tub and serves two purposes: it heats the wash water to the temperature required by the selected cycle (improving cleaning performance and helping detergent dissolve and work effectively), and it provides drying heat at the end of the cycle to evaporate moisture from dishes during the heated dry phase. When the element fails, dishes come out wet, glassware is spotted or cloudy, and wash performance noticeably degrades.
This is an oval-shape element rated 1200W, approximately 15"L x 3"W x 3"H. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W10518394 directly replaces W10518394VP, W10134009, W10441445, 8194250, 8563007, 8563464, 8572861, 2977737, 1381534, 8268559, A3-06, AP4325066, AP5690151, EAP9605070, PD00012075, PS1960583, and PS9605070. The element mounts to the bottom of the tub with large nuts on the underside — the rubber washer (Whirlpool 717273) and heater nut (Whirlpool 8268548) are sold separately if they need replacement. Important: after installation on most Whirlpool dishwashers, you must run the diagnostic mode to reset the control board to recognize the new element. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The W10518394 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and Kenmore dishwashers where dishes come out wet, glassware is spotted, wash water isn't getting hot, or the heated dry phase isn't working. Oval shape, 1200W, ~15"L x 3"W x 3"H. Genuine OEM. Replaces W10518394VP, W10134009, W10441445, 8194250, 8563007, 8563464, 8572861, 2977737, AP4325066, AP5690151, PS1960583, PS9605070. Diagnostic reset required on most Whirlpool dishwashers after installation. Rubber washer (717273) and heater nut (8268548) sold separately if needed.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishes coming out wet at the end of the cycle — element not providing heat for the drying phase
Wash water not getting hot enough — poor cleaning performance even with proper detergent
Glassware coming out cloudy or spotted — water not reaching temperature for proper detergent activation
Heated dry cycle not working — no warm air at the end of the cycle
Element visibly burned through, broken, or showing arcing damage
Multimeter continuity test on the element shows an open circuit (no continuity)
Heating element showing the wrong region glowing red (only a 6" segment heating rather than the whole element)
Detergent not fully dissolving — water too cool to activate the formulation
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher heating element directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10518394, 2977737, 8194250, 8563007, 8572861, W10134009, W10441445, W10518394VP, AWP40983, PD00004893, EAP8260087, AP5690151, PS8260087.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Always confirm the shape and dimensions of your old element match this oval ~15" element before ordering — some Whirlpool dishwashers use a different horseshoe-style element instead.
Compatibility
This dishwasher heating element is compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and Kenmore dishwashers, including:
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDF330PAHS, WDF520PADM, WDT720PADM, WDT730PAHZ series and related models
Whirlpool dishwashers — additional WDF and WDT series models (verify with parts diagram)
Maytag dishwashers — select models (verify with parts diagram)
KitchenAid dishwashers — select models
Amana dishwashers — ADB1400AGW and related models
Kenmore / Sears dishwashers — select Whirlpool-built models
Important — Confirm Element Shape Before Ordering: The W10518394 is an oval-shape heating element approximately 15" in length. Some Whirlpool-platform dishwashers use a different horseshoe-style heating element instead, which is NOT interchangeable with this one. Before ordering, visually compare your old element's shape and length to this part, or check your dishwasher's parts diagram to confirm W10518394 is the correct element for your specific model. If your element is horseshoe-shaped, you need a different part number — contact our support team with your model number.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Heats wash water for optimal cleaning performance and provides drying heat during the heated dry phase
Rated 1200W for efficient heating and reliable temperature control
Oval-shape element approximately 15" L x 3" W x 3" H
Mounts in the bottom of the dishwasher tub, secured underneath with large nuts
Note: rubber washer (Whirlpool 717273) and heater nut (Whirlpool 8268548) sold separately if yours need replacement
Diagnostic reset required on most Whirlpool dishwashers after installation (typically pressing any 3 buttons in sequence 3 times)
Replaces 18+ OEM and cross-reference part numbers including W10518394VP, W10134009, W10441445, 8194250, 8563007, 8563464, 8572861, AP4325066, AP5690151, PS1960583, PS9605070
Compatible with Whirlpool WDF and WDT series, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana ADB1400AGW, and Kenmore Whirlpool-built dishwashers
DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10518394
Part Type
Dishwasher Heating Element
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform)
Shape
Oval (NOT interchangeable with horseshoe-style elements)
Wattage
1200W
Dimensions
Approximately 15" L x 3" W x 3" H
Mounting Location
Bottom of dishwasher tub
Related Parts (Sold Separately)
Rubber Washer (717273), Heater Nut (8268548)
Post-Install Step
Diagnostic reset required on most Whirlpool dishwashers
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Don't Touch Element with Bare Hands Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the water supply at the valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Handle the new heating element only by the metal end terminals or its support brackets — do NOT touch the heating coil itself with bare fingers; skin oils can cause hot spots that shorten element life. From inside the dishwasher tub, the element is visible at the bottom — it's the looped metal coil running along the floor of the tub. Remove the bottom rack and any debris to clear access. To access the wire connections and mounting nuts, you'll need to either reach underneath the dishwasher from the front access panel or, on some installations, pull the dishwasher out partially. From underneath: disconnect the two wires from the bottom of the element terminals (photograph the wire connections first to ensure correct reinstallation). Remove the plastic nuts holding the element terminals in place. From inside the tub, lift the old element straight up and out. Inspect the rubber washers — if they're cracked, hardened, or torn, replace them now with new 717273 washers. Install the new W10518394 element through the same mounting holes, replace the rubber washers if needed, and secure with the plastic nuts (or new 8268548 nuts) from underneath. Reconnect the two wires to the terminals matching your original orientation. Important: after restoring power, run the Whirlpool diagnostic mode to reset the control board — on most models this is done by pressing any three buttons in sequence three times and closing the door, which initiates a ~30-minute diagnostic cycle. The new element will not be recognized by the control until this is done. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 5/8" wrench, 5/16" nut driver, 3/4" wrench, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my dishes coming out wet — is the heating element the cause?
Most likely, yes — wet dishes are the classic signature of a failed dishwasher heating element. The element provides heat for the dry phase, evaporating moisture from dish surfaces. When it fails, dishes simply air-dry, which leaves them wet (especially plastics and the interior of inverted glassware). To confirm: with the dishwasher unplugged, disconnect the wires from the element and check continuity with a multimeter. A working element shows continuity; a failed element shows an open circuit (infinite resistance). Also check that you have the heated dry option enabled in your cycle settings — some users mistakenly turn off heated dry and then assume the element has failed.
After installing the new element, the dishwasher still isn't heating — why?
On most Whirlpool dishwashers, you must run the diagnostic mode after replacing the heating element so the control board recognizes the new part. To enter diagnostic mode on most Whirlpool models, press any three buttons in sequence three times rapidly, then close the door — this starts a roughly 30-minute diagnostic cycle that resets the heater logic. If you've installed the new element correctly and it still isn't heating after the diagnostic cycle, also check the high-limit thermostat (a safety component that can stop power to the element if it has failed open). Confirm your wire connections are tight on the element terminals as well.
How is the W10518394 different from horseshoe-shape heating elements?
The W10518394 is an oval-shape element about 15" in length. Some Whirlpool-platform dishwashers — even similar-looking models — use a horseshoe-shape element instead, which has a different mounting hole pattern and shape that won't fit positions designed for the oval element. The two are NOT interchangeable. Before ordering, compare your old element to a photo of the W10518394, or check your dishwasher's parts diagram. If your old element is horseshoe-shaped, contact our support team with your model number and we'll help identify the correct horseshoe-style element for your dishwasher.
Do I need to replace the rubber washers and nuts when installing this?
Not always — they're reusable as long as they're in good condition. Inspect the rubber washers (Whirlpool 717273) for cracks, hardening, or tears. If they're brittle or torn, replace them now while you have the element out — they prevent water leaks from the tub at the element mounting points. The plastic heater nuts (Whirlpool 8268548) are usually reusable unless visibly damaged. Both parts are sold separately if you need replacements. Reusing torn rubber washers is the most common cause of leaks after this repair, so don't skip the inspection.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same heating element installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and Kenmore Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
W10404050 Genuine OEM Washer Lid Switch Assembly
The W10404050 is a Genuine OEM replacement lid switch and latch assembly compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef, and Norge top-load washers. The lid switch is a critical safety component that detects when the washer lid is opened or closed. It sends a signal to the control board to allow the washer to fill, agitate, and spin when the lid is closed — and to immediately stop the spin cycle when the lid is opened, preventing contact with a moving drum.
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It features a 4-wire plug connection and includes two bezels (one white and one gray) to match different model color schemes. It directly replaces W10238287, W10744659, W10404050VP, AP5263307, and several additional cross-reference numbers. The companion lid strike (W10240513) is sold separately — inspect the strike on your lid for wear or damage and replace if needed. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The W10404050 Genuine OEM Washer Lid Switch Assembly fixes top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, have a blinking lid lock light, or continue spinning with the lid open. 4-wire plug connection. Includes white and gray bezels. Replaces W10238287, W10744659, AP5263307, and more. Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef, and Norge washers. Lid strike W10240513 sold separately.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer will not start — lid lock light blinks without locking
Washer fills but will not agitate or spin
Washer lid lock light continuously blinks and clicks without engaging
Washer continues to spin with the lid open — safety mechanism not working
Lid appears locked but washer will not proceed past sensing or fill cycle
Washer stops mid-cycle and will not restart without opening and re-closing the lid
Lid lock assembly visibly broken or latch no longer springs back after pressing
Replaces Part Numbers
This lid switch assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10404050, 1938607, W10238287, W10404050VP, W10744659, EAP3497627, AWP41256, PD00003596, AH3497627, AP5263307, EA3497627, PS3497627.
Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select top-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool top-load washers — Cabrio and WTW series (electronic top-load models)
Maytag top-load washers — Centennial, Bravos X, and MVWC/MVWX series
Kenmore / Sears top-load washers — 110 series and select others (Whirlpool-built)
Amana top-load washers — NTW and ATW series
KitchenAid top-load washers
Roper top-load washers
Admiral top-load washers — ATW series
Crosley top-load washers
Inglis top-load washers
Magic Chef top-load washers
Norge top-load washers
Note: The W10404050 is for electronic top-load washers with a 4-wire lid lock (Cabrio, Centennial, Bravos, and similar platforms). Older mechanical top-load washers use a different lid switch style. Verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Critical safety component — stops the spin cycle when the lid is opened to prevent contact with a moving drum
Signals the control board to allow filling, agitating, and spinning when the lid is properly closed and locked
4-wire plug connection — direct plug-in replacement on compatible models
Includes two bezels (white and gray) to match different model color schemes
Replaces W10238287, W10744659, W10404050VP, AP5263307, and more
Compatible with Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Centennial, Maytag Bravos X, Kenmore 110 series, and many more
Lid strike W10240513 sold separately — inspect and replace if worn
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10404050
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch and Latch Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Electronic Top-Load Washers (4-wire lid lock)
Connector
4-wire plug
Color
White (includes both white and gray bezels)
Includes
Lid switch assembly, white bezel, gray bezel
Companion Part
W10240513 Lid Strike (sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef, Norge
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power before beginning any repair. The lid switch assembly is mounted under the washer's top panel near the lid opening. To access it, insert a putty knife about 2 inches from each front corner of the top panel to release the spring clips and lift the top panel. Disconnect the 4-wire harness from the old lid switch assembly. Remove the mounting screws securing the assembly and lift it out. Install the new W10404050 assembly, secure with the mounting screws, and reconnect the 4-wire harness. Choose the appropriate bezel (white or gray) for your model and snap it into place. Lower the top panel until the clips engage. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm the lid locks, the washer starts, and the spin cycle stops when the lid is opened. Tip: While the top panel is raised, inspect the lid strike (W10240513) on the lid for cracks or wear — if worn, replace it at the same time. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat pry tool.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the washer lid switch do?
The lid switch assembly serves two functions. First, it is a safety device — when the lid is opened during the spin cycle, the switch immediately cuts power to the spin motor to prevent contact with the moving drum. Second, it signals the control board that the lid is securely closed and locked, allowing the washer to proceed through the fill, agitate, and spin cycles. If the switch fails, the washer either won't start at all, or will fail to proceed past a specific cycle stage because the board cannot confirm the lid is closed.
My lid lock light is blinking — does that mean the lid switch needs to be replaced?
A blinking lid lock light is one of the most common symptoms of a failed W10404050 lid switch assembly. It typically means the lid lock mechanism is attempting to engage but failing — either because the switch is internally faulty or because the lid strike (W10240513) on the lid is broken and not triggering the switch properly. Inspect the lid strike first — if it is cracked or missing, replace it. If the strike looks intact and the lid lock still blinks without engaging, replace the W10404050 switch assembly.
Should I also replace the lid strike (W10240513) at the same time?
It depends on the condition of the strike. Open the lid and inspect the two plastic prongs on the underside of the lid that engage the W10404050 latch — this is the W10240513 lid strike. If the prongs are cracked, broken, or noticeably worn down, replace the strike at the same time as the switch assembly. Since the top panel is already lifted for the switch replacement, it is a good opportunity to inspect and replace the strike if needed, using only a Phillips screwdriver.
What washers is the W10404050 compatible with?
The W10404050 is used on Whirlpool Cabrio and WTW series electronic top-load washers, Maytag Centennial and Bravos X top-load washers, and Kenmore 110 series top-load washers, among others. It is specifically for electronic top-load models with a 4-wire lid lock — not for older mechanical top-load washers that use a simpler 2- or 3-wire lid switch. Verify your model number before ordering.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same lid switch and latch assembly installed in compatible washers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WP389140 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Drive Block
The WP389140 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM drive block for large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive top-load washers. This is a purely mechanical coupling component: it connects the inner spin basket to the transmission's drive shaft, so that when the transmission turns, the basket turns with it. Without a properly seated drive block, the connection between the motor's rotational power and the basket is lost or unreliable, even though every electrical component in the washer may be working perfectly.
Measuring approximately 2-5/16" high, this drive block is a wear component subject to gradual mechanical stress every time the washer agitates or spins. A worn or failed drive block produces a distinctive set of symptoms: the basket may spin freely without properly engaging, the washer may spin slowly and leave clothes excessively wet, or you may hear a loud knocking or banging noise during operation as the connection between the basket and drive shaft becomes loose or worn. It directly replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, and 2858.
Quick Answer
The WP389140 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Drive Block fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis top-load washers with a basket that spins freely without engaging, slow spinning that leaves clothes excessively wet, or loud knocking/banging noise during operation. Approximately 2-5/16" high. For large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive washers. Replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, 2858. This repair typically requires a spanner wrench to remove a large securing nut — budget for the right tool before starting.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer basket spins freely without properly engaging during the wash or spin cycle
Washer spins slowly, leaving clothes excessively wet at the end of a cycle
Loud knocking or banging noise during operation
Washer shakes or moves noticeably during spin
Basket continues spinning after the cycle should have stopped
Inefficient wash and spin cycles overall due to poor basket engagement
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer drive block directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP389140, 389140, 357782, 97360, PD00002363, EAP11741977, WP389140VP, AP6008836, AWP47839, J27-936, PS11741977.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drive block is compatible with select Whirlpool large-capacity top-load washers (belt-drive and direct-drive), and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis washers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as:
NTW4516FW, NTW4516FW3, NTW4516FW4
WTW4816FW2, WTW4816FW3
RTW4516FW, NTW4605EW, WTW4800BQ
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since Whirlpool uses different drive block designs across its washer lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified fit for a secure basket-to-transmission connection
Connects the inner spin basket to the transmission's drive shaft
Resolves "basket spins freely," "slow spin, clothes too wet," and "loud knocking noise" symptoms caused by drive block wear
Approximately 2-5/16" high
Designed for large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive washer platforms
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original fit onto the spin tube notches
Replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, and 2858
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WP389140
Part Type
Washer Drive Block
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Large-Capacity Belt-Drive and Direct-Drive Top-Load Washers
Height
Approx. 2-5/16 in.
Function
Connects the inner spin basket to the transmission drive shaft
Related Component
Drive cam (commonly inspected/replaced during the same repair)
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — spanner wrench and washer disassembly required
Quantity
1 drive block
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Spanner Wrench Required Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the washer's top and control console per your model's service instructions to access the inner tub assembly. Remove the agitator and any hardware securing the basket, which typically includes a large center nut — a spanner wrench is required to remove this nut, along with a socket and long extension for other fasteners; expect to remove a fair number of components to fully access the drive block. Lift the wash basket out to expose the drive block, which sits on the spin tube near the center of the transmission. Photograph the orientation of the old drive block and any surrounding hardware before removing it. Lift the old drive block free, and while it's accessible, inspect the drive cam nearby for wear as well, since it's commonly replaced at the same time. Slide the new WP389140 drive block into position, making sure it seats fully onto the spin tube notches, and reassemble the basket, hardware, agitator, console, and top panel in reverse order. Restore water and power, then run a test cycle through both wash and spin to confirm the basket engages properly with no unusual noise. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, spanner wrench, socket set with long extension, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer basket spins freely and doesn't seem connected to anything. Is this the drive block?
Yes, this is the classic symptom of a failed drive block. Since this component is the mechanical link between the transmission's drive shaft and the inner spin basket, once it wears out or fails, the basket can spin independently without properly engaging, even though the motor and transmission are working normally.
Do I really need a spanner wrench for this repair?
Yes, on most models. Accessing the drive block requires removing a large nut that secures the basket assembly, and this nut is specifically designed to be removed with a spanner wrench rather than a standard socket. Trying to remove it without the correct tool risks damaging the nut or the surrounding components, so it's worth having one on hand before you start.
Should I replace the drive cam at the same time?
It's worth inspecting while you have the assembly open, since the drive cam sits in the same area and is commonly replaced alongside the drive block when a technician is already this far into the repair. If it shows visible wear, replacing both at once saves you from repeating this same teardown again soon after.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original dimensions and fit of the drive block originally installed in your washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
W11670519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly
The W11670519 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM lid lock latch assembly for Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform. Unlike a simple mechanical lid switch, this is a true electronic lid lock: a 3-wire connector feeds the assembly, which both senses whether the lid is closed and physically locks it shut once a cycle with spin is underway. The control won't allow the washer to spin — and on many cycles won't even let it start — until this assembly confirms the lid is closed and locked, which is why a failing latch produces such a wide range of symptoms: a washer that won't start, a lid that won't lock or won't release, cycles that stall or interrupt partway through, or a washer that fills and agitates but refuses to spin.
Built from high-strength, wear-resistant ABS and PP plastic with a precision locking mechanism, this assembly is designed to prevent the lid from popping open mid-spin, which protects against water leakage and the safety hazard of an open lid on a spinning basket. Common failure modes include a locking mechanism that has worn out and can no longer engage or release reliably, a broken internal switch that stops signaling lid status to the control board, and simple wear from years of daily cycling. It directly replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, and EAP17215992. As a genuine OEM part, the W11670519 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W11670519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly fixes Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform where the washer won't start, the lid won't lock or won't release, the washer fills and agitates but won't spin, the cycle stalls or interrupts, or the lid clicks repeatedly without locking. 3-wire electronic lid lock, ABS/PP construction. Replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, EAP17215992. This is a locking latch assembly, not a simple lid switch — it's a different design from the direct-drive and GE-platform lid switches elsewhere in our catalog.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't start even though the lid is closed
Lid won't lock, or locks but won't release when the cycle ends
Washer fills and agitates normally but won't spin
Persistent clicking sound from the lid area without the lid actually locking
Cycle stalling or interrupting partway through
Lid feels loose or doesn't seat and lock the way it used to
Error code related to the lid lock displayed on the control panel
Water leakage risk from a lid that isn't sealing and locking properly during spin
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid lock latch assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11670519, W11368616, AP7214714, AWP46151, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, EAP17215992
W11368616 was an earlier number for this same assembly. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid lock latch assembly is compatible with select Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform, including model numbers such as:
MVW4505MW0, MVW4505MW1, MVW4505MW2
MVW5035MW1, MVW5035MW2
MVW5430MW1, MVW5430MW2, MVW5430PBK0, MVW5430PBK1
MVW5435PBK0, MVW5435PBK1, MVW5435PW0, MVW5435PW1
Note: This is an electronic locking latch assembly for the Maytag Cabrio-style MVW platform, and it is a different design from the simpler lid switches used on other Whirlpool platforms — including our 8318084 (direct-drive top-load), 3355806 (Whirlpool thin-twin), WH12X955 (GE combo/spacemaker), and WH01X29528 (GE front-load door lock) listings. None of those are interchangeable with this assembly. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which lid lock or switch your washer needs.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified locking mechanism and switch design
Electronic lid lock — both senses lid position and physically locks the lid during spin cycles
Resolves "won't start," "lid won't lock or release," "fills but won't spin," and "cycle interruptions" symptoms caused by latch failure
3-wire connector for a direct plug-and-play electrical connection
Constructed from high-strength ABS and PP plastic for wear and aging resistance
Precision-designed locking mechanism helps prevent accidental lid opening during spin
Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required
Replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, and EAP17215992
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11670519
Part Type
Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool / Maytag
Application
Maytag Cabrio-Style Top-Load Washers (MVW Platform)
Electrical Connection
3-wire connector
Material
High-strength ABS and PP plastic
Function
Senses lid closure and physically locks the lid during spin
Supersedes
W11368616
Quantity
1 lid lock assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — If The Lid Is Locked Shut, Release It Manually First Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. If the old latch has failed in the locked position and you can't open the lid, insert a small flathead screwdriver into the latch opening where the lock mechanism engages through the lid, and gently slide the mechanism back to release it — then prop the lid open so it can't re-close and re-lock while you work. Remove the two screws holding the top section (control panel, lid, and wash basket opening) and slide the top of the unit forward and up to remove it, then prop it securely (a sturdy support between the cabinet frame and the top panel works well) rather than relying on your hands to hold it up. With the top propped open, remove the plastic cowl that the lid latch sits inside, which also retains the lock mechanism. Unclip the wiring harness from the retaining clips running around the inside of the lid and let the assembly hang free. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting the 3-wire connector from the old assembly. At the back of the lid, two metal spring clips retain the mechanism — squeeze these with your fingers or a set of pliers to release the old assembly, then pop the new W11670519 into place the same way. Reconnect the 3-wire connector, reclip the wiring harness into its retaining clips, and reinstall the plastic cowl. Lower the top panel back into position, reinstall its retaining screws, and confirm the lid closes, latches, and locks correctly through a full test cycle including spin. Tools needed: small flathead screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a sturdy prop for the top panel, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer fills and agitates but won't spin. Is this the lid lock?
Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing lid lock latch on this platform. The control requires confirmation that the lid is closed and locked before it will allow the higher-speed, higher-torque spin cycle to run, even if it's willing to run the gentler fill and agitate steps without full confirmation. If your washer gets partway through a cycle and simply refuses to spin, this assembly is a strong suspect.
The lid keeps clicking but never actually locks. What does that mean?
A repeated clicking sound without the lid actually locking usually points to a worn or failing internal locking mechanism inside this assembly — it's attempting to engage but can't complete the lock reliably. This is a textbook symptom that this part has worn out and needs replacement.
My washer's lid is locked shut and won't open. How do I even get it open to do this repair?
With the washer unplugged, you can usually manually release the lock: insert a small flathead screwdriver into the latch opening where the mechanism engages through the lid, and gently slide it back to disengage the lock. Once the lid is open, prop it so it can't fall shut and re-lock while you continue the repair.
Is this the same part as the lid switches used on other Whirlpool washers?
No. This is an electronic locking latch assembly specific to the Maytag Cabrio-style MVW platform, and it works differently from the simpler mechanical lid switches used on other Whirlpool-family platforms, including the direct-drive top-load switch, the Whirlpool thin-twin switch, and various GE-platform switches we also carry. These parts are not interchangeable with each other — always match the assembly to your specific washer platform.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same 3-wire electrical connection, locking mechanism, and ABS/PP construction as the lid lock latch assembly originally installed in your Maytag Cabrio-style washer.
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