W11175771 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve
The W11175771 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers, located behind the lower kick plate panel in either the right or left corner. This valve controls the flow of water into the appliance during the wash cycle — an electrical solenoid plunger opens and closes the valve to admit exactly the right amount of water at the appropriate stages of the dishwasher's cycle.
Measuring approximately 3.37" in height, this is a superseding part, replacing the earlier W10872255 and W11130744 valve numbers so older models can be updated with the current version. Over time, a screen inside the valve can become clogged with sediment — this screen isn't designed to be cleaned or serviced, so a clog means the whole valve needs to be replaced. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the dishwasher not filling with enough water or not filling at all, leaking into the dishwasher while not in use, or overfilling with too much water. It directly replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, and W11130743.
Quick Answer
The W11175771 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers that aren't filling with water, are leaking, or are overfilling. Located behind the lower kick plate panel. Replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, W11130743. While the dishwasher is disassembled for this repair, consider also checking or replacing the water supply adapter, since it's in the same area and easy to inspect at the same time.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with enough water, or not filling at all
Water leaking into the dishwasher while it's not in use
Dishwasher overfilling with too much water
High-pitched whining sound while the dishwasher is filling
Poor washing results or an error code related to water fill
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11175771, 3015468, 328C151-T, 4451572, 4843711, AP5804368, AP6024301, AP6339872, EAP11738107, EAP12578165, EAP3406951, AWP43823, PD00052484, PS11738107, PS12578165
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool dishwashers, and also fits select Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WDF130PAHB1, WDF130PAHB2, WDF130PAHS1, WDF130PAHS2, WDF130PAHW2, WDF330PAHB3, WDF330PAHW4, WDF331PAHB1, WDF520PADB9, WDF520PADM, WDT730PAHZ, WDT720PADM, WDF330PAHS, ADB1400AGW, KDTE104ESS1, and Kenmore 66513222N410 through N414.
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since similar-looking dishwasher water valves can vary between models. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate
Regulates water flow into the dishwasher via an electrical solenoid plunger
Resolves "won't fill," "leaking," "overfilling," and "whining noise" symptoms caused by valve failure
Superseding part — current replacement for the earlier W10872255 and W11130744 valves
Approximately 3.37" in height
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, and W11130743
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11175771
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Behind the lower kick plate panel, right or left corner
Height
3.37"
Supersedes
W10872255, W11130744
Screen Serviceable
No — replace valve if clogged
Repair Difficulty
Easy to Moderate — approx. 15 to 30 minutes
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, Inglis
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the bottom front kick plate to access the interior, where the valve is located behind the panel in either the right or left corner depending on your model. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the water line, the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws securing the old valve, then pull it free. Install the new W11175771 in the same position, securely reconnect the water line and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screws. While you're in this area, it's worth inspecting the water supply adapter for wear, since it's a related part in the same location that's easy to check while everything is already accessible. Reinstall the kick plate, restore the water supply and power, then run a test cycle to confirm the dishwasher fills correctly with no leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water at all. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the most direct symptom of a failed water inlet valve. Since this valve is what admits water from your household supply into the dishwasher, a solenoid failure or internal blockage can prevent any water from entering at all, stopping the wash cycle from proceeding.
Can I just clean the valve's screen instead of replacing the whole thing?
No — the screen inside this valve isn't designed to be cleaned or serviced. If it becomes clogged with sediment from your household water supply, the entire valve should be replaced rather than attempting to clean or repair the screen itself.
My dishwasher makes a high-pitched whining sound while filling. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is a documented symptom of a failing water inlet valve. One customer specifically traced an "obnoxious high-pitched whining sound when filling with water" to this exact valve and resolved it with a straightforward replacement in about 15 minutes.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the water inlet valve originally installed in your dishwasher.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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W11670519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly
The W11670519 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM lid lock latch assembly for Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform. Unlike a simple mechanical lid switch, this is a true electronic lid lock: a 3-wire connector feeds the assembly, which both senses whether the lid is closed and physically locks it shut once a cycle with spin is underway. The control won't allow the washer to spin — and on many cycles won't even let it start — until this assembly confirms the lid is closed and locked, which is why a failing latch produces such a wide range of symptoms: a washer that won't start, a lid that won't lock or won't release, cycles that stall or interrupt partway through, or a washer that fills and agitates but refuses to spin.
Built from high-strength, wear-resistant ABS and PP plastic with a precision locking mechanism, this assembly is designed to prevent the lid from popping open mid-spin, which protects against water leakage and the safety hazard of an open lid on a spinning basket. Common failure modes include a locking mechanism that has worn out and can no longer engage or release reliably, a broken internal switch that stops signaling lid status to the control board, and simple wear from years of daily cycling. It directly replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, and EAP17215992. As a genuine OEM part, the W11670519 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W11670519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly fixes Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform where the washer won't start, the lid won't lock or won't release, the washer fills and agitates but won't spin, the cycle stalls or interrupts, or the lid clicks repeatedly without locking. 3-wire electronic lid lock, ABS/PP construction. Replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, EAP17215992. This is a locking latch assembly, not a simple lid switch — it's a different design from the direct-drive and GE-platform lid switches elsewhere in our catalog.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't start even though the lid is closed
Lid won't lock, or locks but won't release when the cycle ends
Washer fills and agitates normally but won't spin
Persistent clicking sound from the lid area without the lid actually locking
Cycle stalling or interrupting partway through
Lid feels loose or doesn't seat and lock the way it used to
Error code related to the lid lock displayed on the control panel
Water leakage risk from a lid that isn't sealing and locking properly during spin
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid lock latch assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11670519, W11368616, AP7214714, AWP46151, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, EAP17215992
W11368616 was an earlier number for this same assembly. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid lock latch assembly is compatible with select Maytag top-load washers on the Cabrio-style MVW platform, including model numbers such as:
MVW4505MW0, MVW4505MW1, MVW4505MW2
MVW5035MW1, MVW5035MW2
MVW5430MW1, MVW5430MW2, MVW5430PBK0, MVW5430PBK1
MVW5435PBK0, MVW5435PBK1, MVW5435PW0, MVW5435PW1
Note: This is an electronic locking latch assembly for the Maytag Cabrio-style MVW platform, and it is a different design from the simpler lid switches used on other Whirlpool platforms — including our 8318084 (direct-drive top-load), 3355806 (Whirlpool thin-twin), WH12X955 (GE combo/spacemaker), and WH01X29528 (GE front-load door lock) listings. None of those are interchangeable with this assembly. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which lid lock or switch your washer needs.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified locking mechanism and switch design
Electronic lid lock — both senses lid position and physically locks the lid during spin cycles
Resolves "won't start," "lid won't lock or release," "fills but won't spin," and "cycle interruptions" symptoms caused by latch failure
3-wire connector for a direct plug-and-play electrical connection
Constructed from high-strength ABS and PP plastic for wear and aging resistance
Precision-designed locking mechanism helps prevent accidental lid opening during spin
Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required
Replaces W11368616, AP7214714, PD00085482, 4981394, PS17215992, and EAP17215992
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11670519
Part Type
Washer Lid Lock Latch Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool / Maytag
Application
Maytag Cabrio-Style Top-Load Washers (MVW Platform)
Electrical Connection
3-wire connector
Material
High-strength ABS and PP plastic
Function
Senses lid closure and physically locks the lid during spin
Supersedes
W11368616
Quantity
1 lid lock assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — If The Lid Is Locked Shut, Release It Manually First Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. If the old latch has failed in the locked position and you can't open the lid, insert a small flathead screwdriver into the latch opening where the lock mechanism engages through the lid, and gently slide the mechanism back to release it — then prop the lid open so it can't re-close and re-lock while you work. Remove the two screws holding the top section (control panel, lid, and wash basket opening) and slide the top of the unit forward and up to remove it, then prop it securely (a sturdy support between the cabinet frame and the top panel works well) rather than relying on your hands to hold it up. With the top propped open, remove the plastic cowl that the lid latch sits inside, which also retains the lock mechanism. Unclip the wiring harness from the retaining clips running around the inside of the lid and let the assembly hang free. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting the 3-wire connector from the old assembly. At the back of the lid, two metal spring clips retain the mechanism — squeeze these with your fingers or a set of pliers to release the old assembly, then pop the new W11670519 into place the same way. Reconnect the 3-wire connector, reclip the wiring harness into its retaining clips, and reinstall the plastic cowl. Lower the top panel back into position, reinstall its retaining screws, and confirm the lid closes, latches, and locks correctly through a full test cycle including spin. Tools needed: small flathead screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a sturdy prop for the top panel, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer fills and agitates but won't spin. Is this the lid lock?
Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing lid lock latch on this platform. The control requires confirmation that the lid is closed and locked before it will allow the higher-speed, higher-torque spin cycle to run, even if it's willing to run the gentler fill and agitate steps without full confirmation. If your washer gets partway through a cycle and simply refuses to spin, this assembly is a strong suspect.
The lid keeps clicking but never actually locks. What does that mean?
A repeated clicking sound without the lid actually locking usually points to a worn or failing internal locking mechanism inside this assembly — it's attempting to engage but can't complete the lock reliably. This is a textbook symptom that this part has worn out and needs replacement.
My washer's lid is locked shut and won't open. How do I even get it open to do this repair?
With the washer unplugged, you can usually manually release the lock: insert a small flathead screwdriver into the latch opening where the mechanism engages through the lid, and gently slide it back to disengage the lock. Once the lid is open, prop it so it can't fall shut and re-lock while you continue the repair.
Is this the same part as the lid switches used on other Whirlpool washers?
No. This is an electronic locking latch assembly specific to the Maytag Cabrio-style MVW platform, and it works differently from the simpler mechanical lid switches used on other Whirlpool-family platforms, including the direct-drive top-load switch, the Whirlpool thin-twin switch, and various GE-platform switches we also carry. These parts are not interchangeable with each other — always match the assembly to your specific washer platform.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same 3-wire electrical connection, locking mechanism, and ABS/PP construction as the lid lock latch assembly originally installed in your Maytag Cabrio-style washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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ERP W10167627 Dryer Thermal Cutoff
Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10167627, AP6016109, PS11749393, W10167627.
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
Genuine OEM WE4M137 Dryer High Limit Thermostat
The WE4M137 is a genuine OEM high limit thermostat for GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryers. Mounted on the upper right side of the heater housing, this safety thermostat monitors the temperature of the heating circuit and cuts power to the heating element (and in some conditions the motor) if the dryer runs hotter than it should — typically from restricted airflow, a clogged vent, or a failing cycling thermostat. Unlike a one-time thermal fuse, this is an auto-resetting high limit thermostat (rated L315-65F): it opens at approximately 315°F to stop overheating, then automatically closes again once the unit cools down, without needing to be replaced after each trip.
This is a genuine OEM part manufactured to the original factory temperature rating and mounting — not an aftermarket equivalent — so trip point and reset behavior match what came on the dryer originally. If this component trips repeatedly, it's worth checking the underlying cause of the overheating at the same time — a clogged lint trap or restricted exhaust vent is the most common root cause.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WE4M137 High Limit Thermostat fixes a GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore dryer that shuts off a few minutes into a heat cycle, stops early and won't restart until it cools down, or cycles on and off intermittently. Genuine OEM, factory temperature rating, auto-resetting, rated to open at approximately 315°F. Classic symptom: dryer runs fine for a few minutes then quits on heat, and won't restart again until it's had time to cool.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer shuts off a few minutes into a heat-dry cycle
Dryer stops early and won't restart until it cools down
Intermittent shutdowns during the drying cycle
Clothes coming out damp because the cycle keeps cutting short
Dryer won't start at all if the thermostat has failed in an open position
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This thermostat directly replaces the following part numbers:
WE4M137 replaces WE4M457, 276438, WE04M0137, WE04X25197, 559C131G04, AGE25626, AH267900, AP2042565, EAP267900, EA267900, PD00001228, PS267900
These numbers span several generations of GE's own part numbering for this thermostat as model lines and sub-assemblies were updated — all are the correct genuine replacement for this component regardless of which number appears on your dryer's parts diagram.
Compatibility
This thermostat is compatible with 28+ GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer models, including:
Kenmore 2661532110, GE 2661532210
Numerous additional GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer and washer-dryer combo models DBXR463ED1WW, DBXR463ED2WW, DBXR463EG7WW, DHDVH52EF0WW, DHDVH66EH0BB, DPSR610EG0WT, DPSR610EG1WT, DPSR610EG2WT, DPSR610EG3WT, DPSR610EG4WT, DPSR610EG5WT, DPSR610EG6WT, DPSR610EG7WT, DPSR610EG8WT, GFDN245EL1MS, GFDS350GL0WW, GFDS350GL1WW, GFDS355EL0MV, GLDP280ED0WS, GLDP280GD0WS, GTDN500EM0WS, GTDN500EM1WS, GTDN500EM2WS, GTDX180ED0WW, GTDX180ED1WW, GTDX180ED3WW, GTDX180ED4WW, GTDX180ED5WW, GTDX180ED6WW, GTDP180ED0WW, GTDP180ED1WW, GTDP200EF1WS, GTDP220EF1WW, GTDP301EL1WS, GTDP490ED0WS, HTDP120ED0WW, HTDX100ED0WW, NBXR333EG1WW, NWXR483EG8WW
Note: This thermostat has also been referenced for some Fisher & Paykel dryer applications in sourcing, though we were not able to confirm a specific Fisher & Paykel model list. Confirm your model number against your dryer's parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM high limit thermostat — factory fit and trip-point accuracy, not an aftermarket equivalent
Auto-resetting design — no need to replace after each trip, unlike a one-time thermal fuse
Rated to open at approximately 315°F to prevent overheating damage
Resolves early-shutoff, won't-restart-until-cool, and intermittent cycling symptoms
Fits 28+ GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer and washer-dryer combo models
Straightforward swap — typically 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WE4M137
OEM Part Number
WE4M137
Part Type
Dryer High Limit Thermostat (Auto-Reset)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Temperature Rating
L315-65F (Opens ~315°F, Auto-Resets on Cooling)
Location
Upper Right Side of Heater Housing
Application
GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore Dryers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the dryer or switch off its circuit breaker before beginning. Remove the dryer's rear or front panel per your model's service guide to access the heater housing — the thermostat is mounted on its upper right side. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat, noting their positions, and remove the mounting screw holding it in place. Install the new thermostat in the same position and reconnect the wire terminals. Before closing the dryer back up, clean out the lint trap and check the exhaust vent for restrictions — a clogged vent is the most common cause of this thermostat tripping repeatedly, and clearing it now can prevent a repeat failure.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer shuts off a few minutes into the cycle and won't restart — is this the part I need?
Yes, this is a classic symptom of a failing high limit thermostat. It's designed to cut power when the dryer overheats and automatically reset once things cool down, so if your dryer won't restart until it's had time to sit, this thermostat is a likely cause.
Is this a one-time fuse like the thermal fuse, or does it reset itself?
This is an auto-resetting thermostat, not a one-time thermal fuse. It opens to cut power when the dryer overheats, then closes again automatically once the unit cools — it doesn't need to be replaced every time it trips. If yours has failed and won't reset or close again, that's when replacement is needed.
Why does my dryer keep tripping this thermostat?
Repeated tripping is usually caused by restricted airflow — a clogged lint trap, a crushed or blocked exhaust duct, or a bird's nest or lint buildup in the outside vent hood — or a failed cycling thermostat elsewhere in the heating circuit. Clear the airflow path when you replace this thermostat, or the new one may trip again.
Is this a genuine GE part or an aftermarket copy?
This is a genuine OEM thermostat manufactured to the original factory specification — not an aftermarket equivalent — so trip temperature and reset behavior match what came on the dryer originally.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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74009592CM Burner Control Knob
Black plastic burner knob
Fits Specific Maytag, Jenn Air, Whirlpool ranges
Replaces Part Numbers: WP74009592, 74009592, 1032643, 71003477, AP6011140, PS11744334.
Description: This Top Burner Control Knob is a replacement part for specific Whirlpool ranges and cooktop models. This part allows for precise control over the heat level of the stove's burners, enabling users to adjust the flame size for various cooking needs. Constructed from durable materials, the knob is designed to withstand the rigors of daily use, providing a reliable interface for setting and maintaining the desired cooking temperature.
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
12500039 Range Genuine OEM Radiant Surface Element
Radiant heating element.
6" smoothtop range element with overheat limit switch
For glass cooktops and freestanding ranges.
Replaces Part Numbers:W10823704, 12500039, 74002653, WP74002653, 04100415, 0E00602299, 3189893, 3196428, 4454863, 71001423, 74001011, 74002651, 74005476, 7406P034-60, 7406P053-60, 7406P058-60, 7406P074-60, 8185657, 8203553, AP6030932, PS11764912, W10823736, Y04100415, Y0E00602299.
Description: This Radiant Surface Element is a Genuine OEM part for specific Maytag, Whirlpool ranges models. It provides the heat necessary for cooking by radiating heat through the cooktop surface. This element is designed to fit under the glass surface of your range, delivering consistent and even heat for various cooking tasks. Causes of a bad radiant surface element can include wear and tear from regular use, overheating, or damage due to impact. Electrical issues can also affect the performance of the element, leading to inconsistent heating.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
AHA72973309 Genuine OEM LG Washer Drain & Circulation Pump Assembly
The AHA72973309 is a genuine LG OEM drain and circulation pump assembly for LG and select Kenmore front-load washers. This is a dual-purpose pump — an Askoll M120-2 unit — that handles two separate jobs from one motor and housing. During the drain portion of the cycle, it pumps wastewater out of the tub and out through the drain hose. During the wash and rinse portions, it switches roles and recirculates water from the bottom of the tub back up through the dispenser and spray nozzle, showering it back over the load. That recirculation spray is what lets LG's front-load washers clean effectively with less water than an older top-load design would need.
Because this single assembly performs both functions, a failure here can show up in more than one way: standing water left in the tub after a cycle, a washer that won't complete its drain step, unusual grinding or humming noise, or reduced wash performance if the recirculation spray isn't working even though draining still seems fine. Common causes include debris such as coins, buttons, or lint lodged in the impeller, general wear and tear on the motor bearings, or an electrical failure in the pump motor itself. It directly replaces AP5676608, 2659237, AHA72973304, and PS7788830. As a genuine OEM part, the AHA72973309 is manufactured by LG to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The AHA72973309 Genuine OEM LG Washer Drain & Circulation Pump Assembly fixes LG and select Kenmore front-load washers with standing water left in the tub after a cycle, a washer that won't drain, unusual grinding or humming noise, or reduced wash performance from a weak recirculation spray. Askoll M120-2 dual-purpose pump — handles both draining and mid-cycle water recirculation. Replaces AP5676608, 2659237, AHA72973304, PS7788830. Installation is average difficulty, 30 to 60 minutes — and on many models it's accessible through the front panel without needing to tip the washer over.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Standing water left in the tub after a cycle finishes
Washer won't drain, or drains very slowly
Drainage-related error code displayed on the control panel
Unusual grinding, humming, or rattling noise during the drain or wash portion of the cycle
Reduced wash performance — clothes not getting as clean, possibly from a weak recirculation spray
Washer stalling mid-cycle at the drain step
Water leaking from underneath the washer near the pump housing
Pump that hums but doesn't seem to move water — possible clog or seized impeller
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer drain and circulation pump assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
AHA72973309, AHA72973304, AP5676608, 2659237, ALG53336, PD00024680, PS7788830
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drain and circulation pump assembly is compatible with select LG front-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore and Kenmore Elite front-load washers built on the LG platform.
Note: This is a dual-function drain-and-circulation assembly specific to LG's front-load platform, built around the Askoll M120-2 pump. It is not a drain-only pump, and it is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different pump design. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine LG OEM part — factory-specified motor, impeller, and housing design
Dual-purpose Askoll M120-2 pump — drains the tub and recirculates wash water through the dispenser spray nozzle
Resolves "standing water in the tub," "won't drain," "grinding or humming noise," and "reduced wash performance" symptoms caused by pump failure
Includes all necessary wiring and mounting hardware for a complete replacement
Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required
Replaces AP5676608, 2659237, AHA72973304, and PS7788830
Compatible with LG and select Kenmore/Kenmore Elite front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Average installation difficulty — typically 30 to 60 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
AHA72973309
Part Type
Washer Drain & Circulation Pump Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
LG
Pump Model
Askoll M120-2
Function
Drains tub water and recirculates wash water through the dispenser spray
Kit Contents
Pump assembly with wiring and mounting hardware
Application
Front-Load Washers (LG-Built)
Repair Difficulty
Average — 30 to 60 minutes
Quantity
1 pump assembly
Compatible Brands
LG, select Kenmore, Kenmore Elite
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Before Starting — Drain Residual Water First Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and close the water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Place towels down and have a shallow pan ready, since the pump housing will hold residual water even after a completed cycle — draining this into a pan before disconnecting hoses will save you a mess. On many models, this pump is fully accessible by removing the front lower access panel or kick plate, without needing to tip the washer onto its back — check this first, since it can save significant time and effort compared to some online guides that recommend tipping the unit. Photograph the hose routing and wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the two hose clamps connecting the pump to the tub and drain hose, and unplug the electrical connector from the pump motor. Remove the mounting screws or clips securing the pump assembly and lift it free, checking the impeller area for coins, buttons, or debris while it's out — clearing a clog here may have been the actual cause of the original symptom. Install the new AHA72973309 in the same orientation, reconnect both hoses with their clamps, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reinstall the front access panel, restore water and power, and run a short cycle to confirm normal draining, recirculation spray, and no leaks around the pump housing. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, hose clamp pliers, shallow pan or towels, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I really need to tip the washer over to replace this pump?
Not necessarily — check your model first. While a lot of general online guidance recommends tipping the washer onto its back to access the pump from underneath, many LG and Kenmore Elite front-load models make this pump fully accessible through the front lower access panel or kick plate instead, without any tipping required. It's worth removing that panel first and seeing what you find before committing to the more involved tip-over approach.
Why does this one pump handle both draining and something during the wash cycle?
LG's front-load washers use this same Askoll pump for two different jobs at different points in the cycle: pumping wastewater out during the drain step, and recirculating water from the bottom of the tub back up through the dispenser and spray nozzle during wash and rinse to shower it over the load. That recirculation spray is part of how these washers clean effectively while using less water than an older top-load design. Because one pump does both jobs, a failure can affect draining, wash performance, or both, depending on what's actually gone wrong inside it.
There's water left in the tub after every cycle. Is this definitely the pump?
It's one of the most common causes, but check the easy things first. A clogged drain filter or a kinked drain hose can produce the same "won't drain" symptom and cost nothing to fix. If the filter and hose are clear and water is still standing in the tub, or if the pump hums but doesn't seem to move any water, the pump assembly itself has likely failed.
My washer drains fine but clothes aren't coming out as clean. Could this pump be the cause?
Possibly. Since this same assembly also handles the recirculation spray during wash, a partial failure can leave draining intact while weakening or eliminating that spray function, which reduces how effectively detergent and water reach the load. If drainage is normal but wash performance has noticeably declined, it's worth having this pump checked as one possible cause alongside things like detergent dosing and water hardness.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by LG to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same Askoll M120-2 dual-function pump design, wiring, and mounting configuration as the drain and circulation pump assembly originally installed in your front-load washer.
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DE47-20034A Microwave Genuine High Limit Thermostat
Thermal cutout.
High limit thermostat. Open for continuity at room temperature, closes when it gets hot.
Fits Samsung over counter microwaves.
Replaces Part Numbers:DE47-20034A, AP4219754, PS4226431.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
Genuine OEM Whirlpool 330031 Burner Element Receptacle Kit
The Genuine OEM Whirlpool 330031 is a surface burner receptacle kit, also called a surface element receptacle or terminal block kit, for Whirlpool-built electric ranges and cooktops. The receptacle is the plug-in block that connects the range's wire harness to the surface element. When it burns, loosens, or corrodes, the element can heat poorly, heat intermittently, or stop heating entirely, even though the element itself is good.
This is the original Whirlpool kit, and it replaces many older numbers. If a burner has stopped working, test the element in another burner socket first. If the element works there, the receptacle is the likely cause.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM Whirlpool 330031 Receptacle Kit fixes an electric range or cooktop whose surface element won't heat, heats intermittently, or has a burned or damaged socket. Classic symptom: a known-good element works in another burner socket but not in this one.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Surface element will not heat
Element heats intermittently
Burned, melted, or corroded receptacle block
Loose element that doesn't seat firmly in the socket
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This receptacle kit directly replaces the following part numbers:
330031, AP3075808, W10841094, 14200040, 14200233, 14203070, 14205001, 14205727, 14209631, 14210007, 14254131, 3374, 42147, 42153, 4335480, 5303935058, 550226, 71930, 74-06-132, 74-06-190, 766339, 99989649, 9E28000199, AH340571, EA340571, FSP330031, PS340571, R0157526, R0167091, R300, TS300, W10116799, W10116803, WB17X210, Y0042147, Y0042153, Y0045536, Y0045546, Y0051088, Y0054794, Y0067069, Y0071930, Y0071931, Y0075054, Y0086726, Y0088866, Y0089227, Y0089291, Y0089336, Y0090094, Y0300678, Y0308306, Y89336, YC2711501, YC2716501, YR0181149, 5303935058, 5301167733, 08002879, 08002916, 08002917, 08002918, 08002919, 08008697, 08011962, 08012830, 08012865, 09957075, 12871, 318112500, 318366400, 42822, 53-003, 709T026P01, 709T026S01, 709T026S02, 709T034P01, 709T045P01, 868464, 9175, A1505240, A1505979, G54972, G55667, K001167470, K001315483, K001319226, K1167204, K1167205, K1167470, K1310415, K1311332, K1312169, K1312179, K1312800, K1315200, K1315483, K1319226, K1323982, K5043104, K5043105, K5137801, PS470125, R201A, RR104, RR109, RR110, RR117, S5303310284, AP2591744, WB17X5091, AP2021538, 245919, AH232634, EA232634, PS232634, R117
These are the main numbers that appear across retailer cross-reference lists. Retailers list many more older numbers for this kit. Confirm against your range's parts diagram, or contact our support team, if your range calls out a different number.
Compatibility
This receptacle kit is listed for electric Whirlpool, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore ranges and cooktops, including these Kenmore examples:
Kenmore 101936630, 101936634, 101938630, 101938635
Kenmore 119647811, 119648811, 119900871, 119901871
Note: The models above are a small sample of a longer list, not a full list. Receptacle styles differ between ranges, and some buyers report terminals that differ from their original. Compare this kit to your old receptacle, and contact our support team with your model number to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM Whirlpool surface element receptacle kit
Connects the range's wire harness to the surface element
Kit includes the receptacle block, mounting brackets, high-temperature wire leads, and heat-shrink insulation
Resolves no-heat and intermittent-heat problems caused by a burned receptacle
Typically a 15 to 30 minute repair
Product Specifications
Part Number
330031
OEM Part Number
330031
Part Type
Surface Burner (Element) Receptacle Kit
Condition
Genuine OEM
Quantity
1 kit
Application
Electric Ranges & Cooktops
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the range or switch off its circuit breaker before beginning, and wear work gloves. Remove the surface element and drip pan, lift the range top, and note which wire goes to which terminal before disconnecting them. Unscrew the old receptacle, fit the new one with the bracket that matches your receptacle, and attach the wires to the same terminals. Insulate the connections with the heat-shrink supplied, then reassemble and test.
Frequently Asked Questions
One burner won't heat. Is this the part I need?
Try the element in another burner socket first. If it heats there, the receptacle or its wiring is the likely cause, and this kit is the repair. If it doesn't heat in the other socket, the element is the problem.
The kit comes with two brackets. Which one do I use?
Use only the bracket that matches your receptacle, as shown in the parts diagram or on your old receptacle.
Is this a plug-in part for any electric range?
No. It is listed for Whirlpool, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore ranges and cooktops, and receptacle styles differ between models. We have not confirmed fit for GE, Hotpoint, or other brands. Compare it to your old receptacle, or contact our support team with your model number.
Will this fit my range?
It is listed for many Whirlpool-built ranges and cooktops, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
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2 Pack - XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb 40W Replaces 8206232A, WB25X10030
The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 is an aftermarket replacement 40-watt T8 appliance light bulb compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, ovens, and other kitchen appliances from GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, and more. It uses the standard E17 intermediate screw base found on most over-the-range and built-in microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulb sockets. With a clear T8 glass envelope, warm white 2800K color temperature, and 280-lumen output, it matches the brightness and look of the original OEM bulbs it replaces.
Specifications: 40W, 125V (AC 110-130V/60Hz), E17 intermediate screw base, T8 shape (1" diameter × 2-3/8" length), 280 lumens, warm white (~2800K), dimmable (compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings), 1000-hour rated life, working temperature High Temp Resistance 300℃. It directly replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 261201500480, 3015548, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, and PS8767095. Installs in under 5 minutes — no tools required for the bulb itself.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb (40W) replaces burned-out interior microwave lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulbs across GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, and Hotpoint. T8 shape, 40W, 125V, E17 intermediate screw base. 1" diameter × 2-3/8" length. 280 lumens warm white (~2800K). Dimmable. 1000-hour life. Replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, PS8767095. Make sure your appliance uses an E17 intermediate base — not E26 standard, E12 candelabra, or E14 European.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Microwave interior light not working — bulb burned out
Range hood light bulb burned out — under-cabinet area no longer illuminates when cooking
Over-the-range microwave under-cabinet light not working
Bulb flickering or dimming inconsistently — filament starting to fail
Bulb visibly burned out, broken, or rattling when shaken (broken filament)
Microwave light works only intermittently — bulb on the verge of failure
Replacement after long service life — most appliance bulbs last about 2,000 hours
Replaces Part Numbers
This 40W appliance light bulb directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers from multiple brands:
8206232A, 8206443, 8183993, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, 14209237, 14210453, 14210811, 14218311, 14218312, 14218318, 1890433, 2635-0004, 2635-0005, 2665-0003, 4158344, 4158365, 4158432, 4164062, 4166665, 4174608, 4338831, 4359625, 4393681, 53001372, 53422, 53437, 56001071, 56001089, 57001073, 7-47000, 7-47001, 747000, 747001, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 8205586, 8206232, R0712013, R0712015, R0713503, R9900310, W10321375, W10598935, Y0053422, Y0053437, Y05200136, Y05200137, Y747000, Y747001, AWP39609, PD00003046, AH2376034, EA2376034, AP4512653, PS2376034, WB25X10030, 261201500480, 3015548, AGE22225 PD00034740, AP5809052, PS8767095, 26QBP4093.
If your bulb part number isn't listed above, check that the base is E17 intermediate and the bulb is 40W — most appliance bulbs in this category are interchangeable. Contact our support team if you need confirmation.
Compatibility
This 40W E17 appliance light bulb is compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and ovens using E17 intermediate base sockets, including:
GE over-the-range and countertop microwaves (interior lights)
GE Profile, Café, and Monogram microwaves and range hoods
Whirlpool microwaves and range hoods (over-the-range models)
KitchenAid microwaves (built-in and over-the-range)
Maytag microwaves (select models)
Amana microwaves (select models)
LG over-the-range microwaves
Frigidaire microwaves and range hoods (select models)
Kenmore / Sears microwaves (multi-brand-built models)
Hotpoint microwaves and range hoods
Corningware microwaves (select models)
Also fits select refrigerator interior light sockets, oven lights, and lava lamps using the same E17 base
Important — Check Your Base Type: This bulb uses an E17 intermediate screw base. It will NOT fit appliances designed for E26 (standard household), E12 (candelabra), or E14 (European) bases. The E17 base is the most common base for over-the-range microwaves and range hoods, but check your old bulb or appliance manual to confirm before ordering. Some newer LG microwaves use a 30W bulb instead of 40W — verify your wattage requirement as well.
Key Features
40-watt T8 appliance incandescent bulb — replaces burned-out interior lights in microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and select ovens
Standard E17 intermediate screw base — fits the most common appliance bulb socket
T8 shape: 1" (25mm) diameter × 2-3/8" (62mm) length — matches OEM bulb dimensions for clear cover fit
125V (works on AC 110-130V / 60Hz household power)
400 lumens of warm white light (~2800K) — matches the brightness and color of original incandescent OEM bulbs
Dimmable — compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings without flicker
1000-hour rated lifetime — standard for appliance incandescent bulbs
Working temperature range: High Temp Resistance 300℃. — suitable for microwave and range hood heat environments
Replaces 8206232A, 1890433, AP4512653, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, W10321375, W10598935, 6912W1Z004B, and many additional cross-references
Multi-brand cross-compatibility: GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY replacement — installs in under 5 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPIBE1740
Common OEM Replacements
8206232A, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, 6912W1Z004B
Part Type
Appliance Light Bulb (Incandescent)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Microwave, Range Hood, Refrigerator, Oven, Appliance Lights
Wattage
40W
Voltage
125V (operates AC 110-130V / 60Hz)
Base Type
E17 Intermediate Screw Base
Bulb Shape
T8
Dimensions
1" (25mm) D x 2-3/8" (62mm) L
Brightness
280 lumens
Color Temperature
Warm White (~2800K)
Cover
Clear glass
Dimmable
Yes — compatible with HIGH/LOW microwave settings
Lifetime
over 2,000+
Working Temperature
High Temp Resistance 300℃.
Compatible Brands
GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware
Installation Notes
⚠️ Let the Bulb Cool Completely Before Touching — Unplug Microwave Before replacing the bulb, unplug the microwave (or disconnect power at the breaker for hardwired range hoods) and allow the old bulb to cool completely — incandescent appliance bulbs run very hot, and the glass can stay hot for several minutes after the light is turned off. For an over-the-range microwave's interior light, the bulb is typically accessed through a small panel or by removing a screw-on cover inside the microwave cavity. For under-cabinet/exterior lights, access the bulb by removing the protective cover or vent grille on the bottom of the microwave or range hood. Unscrew the old bulb counterclockwise and dispose of it safely. Screw in the new XPIBE1740 bulb clockwise — hand-tight only, do not over-tighten. Avoid touching the glass envelope of the new bulb with bare fingers; skin oils on the glass can shorten bulb life. If you must touch the glass, wipe it down with a clean cloth before powering the appliance back on. Replace the cover, restore power, and confirm the light works. Tools needed: none for most models, or a small Phillips screwdriver if a panel/cover must be removed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need an E17, E26, or E12 base bulb?
The "E" number refers to the screw base diameter in millimeters. E17 (intermediate) is 17mm — the most common size for over-the-range microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and many appliance lights. E26 (medium/standard) is 26mm — typical household light bulbs (do NOT fit appliance sockets). E12 (candelabra) is 12mm — used for chandelier and decorative bulbs. E14 (European intermediate) is 14mm — common in Europe but rare in U.S. appliances. The XPIBE1740 is an E17 intermediate base. If your old bulb is noticeably smaller or larger than what you're holding, it's the wrong base — confirm by comparing dimensions or checking your appliance manual before ordering.
Can I use an LED bulb instead of this incandescent one?
In many appliances, yes — LED appliance bulbs with E17 intermediate bases are available and use significantly less power for similar brightness. However, LED bulbs sometimes have compatibility issues with the dimming/HIGH-LOW settings on microwaves, can flicker, or may not work with the appliance's lighting control circuit. The XPIBE1740 incandescent bulb is fully dimmable and a guaranteed direct match to the original appliance bulb's behavior. If you prefer LED for energy savings, confirm the LED is rated for appliance use, has an E17 base, and is dimmable for microwave applications before substituting.
My LG microwave's bulb says 30W — does this 40W bulb fit?
Physically, yes — both the 30W and 40W bulbs use the same E17 intermediate base and similar T8 shape. However, some LG microwave models specifically call for a 30W bulb (such as the 6912W1Z004B variant). Using a 40W bulb in a socket rated for 30W may cause the bulb to run hotter than designed, shortening its life or the surrounding socket components' life. Check your LG microwave's manual or the marking on the old bulb — if it specifies 30W, use a 30W bulb. The XPIBE1740 is 40W, suitable for the majority of microwaves that specify 40W bulbs.
Why do appliance bulbs burn out faster than regular household bulbs?
Appliance bulbs operate in harsher environments than typical household bulbs — high temperatures (microwaves and range hoods can hit 480°F nearby), heavy vibration from cooking appliances, repeated rapid on-off cycling, and frequent thermal shock from cooking steam. Even though they're rated for 1,000 hours of operation, real-world life in an appliance is often shorter than the same incandescent bulb in a household lamp. Buying multi-packs and replacing when one burns out is a common approach. Always allow the appliance to cool before swapping the bulb, and don't touch the new glass with bare fingers to maximize service life.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement bulb built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a branded GE, Whirlpool, or LG OEM bulb, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (T8, 1" × 2-3/8"), electrical specifications (40W, 125V, E17 base), brightness (400 lumens, warm white), and dimmable performance of the original appliance bulbs it replaces. Bulb spec compatibility (not brand) is what determines fit, so a properly specified aftermarket bulb performs identically to the OEM.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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318258203 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Range Radiant Bridge Surface Burner Element
The 318258203 is a Genuine OEM Frigidaire replacement radiant bridge surface burner element compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, and Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops. This is a dual surface bridge element — it spans two separate burner zones and bridges them together to create one large, elongated heating surface ideal for griddles, fish pans, and oversized cookware. Rated at 1800W / 2600W, it uses an exposed resistance wire (haliant-style) to generate heat directly on the glass-ceramic cooktop surface.
As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire to factory specifications, the 318258203 is a direct factory-exact replacement. It also replaces the earlier 7318258203 part number. The element uses exposed resistance wire to heat the cooking surface — note that minor surface cracks in the glass covering do not affect heating performance. Before installation, photograph the original element's wire terminal connections so you can reconnect the new element correctly. Always unplug the range before beginning. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The 318258203 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Radiant Bridge Surface Burner Element fixes electric ranges where the bridge burner zone is not heating, heats unevenly, or the element has visibly burned out. Dual bridge element rated 1800W/2600W. Haliant-style exposed resistance wire. Replaces 7318258203. Compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, and Kenmore electric ranges. Genuine OEM — factory-exact fit and performance.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Bridge burner zone not heating at all when activated
Bridge element heating only on one side — uneven heating across the element
Visible burn marks, breaks, or open spots on the resistance wire
Bridge burner zone glowing on one side but not the other
Element cycles on and off erratically instead of maintaining steady heat
Cooktop surface shows discoloration or hot spots directly above the element area
Replaces Part Numbers
This burner element directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
318258203, 1197704, 7318258203, AH1529079, AFR16668, AP3965799, EA1529079, PD00057059, PS1529079.
Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This bridge surface element is compatible with select electric ranges and cooktops from the following brands:
Frigidaire electric ranges and cooktops
Electrolux electric ranges and cooktops
Kenmore / Sears electric ranges (Frigidaire/Electrolux-built models)
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Dual bridge element — spans two burner zones to create one large elongated cooking surface for griddles and oversized cookware
Rated 1800W / 2600W — dual-power design for large-surface cooking flexibility
Haliant-style exposed resistance wire heating — heats the glass-ceramic surface directly and efficiently
Replaces 7318258203 and cross-references AH1529079, AFR16668, AP3965799, EA1529079, PD00057059, PS1529079.
Compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, and Kenmore electric ranges
Note: photograph terminal wiring before removal to ensure correct reconnection
Product Specifications
Part Number
318258203
Also Replaces
7318258203
Part Type
Radiant Bridge Surface Burner Element (Dual / Haliant-style)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Electric Ranges and Cooktops (glass-ceramic surface)
Wattage
1800W / 2600W (dual power)
Element Type
Haliant — exposed resistance wire on element surface
Element Style
Bridge (spans two burner zones)
Compatible Brands
Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Range Before Starting Unplug the range or turn off the circuit breaker before beginning. Allow the cooktop to cool completely before touching the element. Photograph the existing element's terminal wiring connections before disconnecting anything — the terminal block connections must be replicated exactly on the new element. Lift the glass-ceramic cooktop surface by opening the front and removing the retaining screws (typically under the front trim), then prop the top open. Unplug the element's terminal connections from the terminal block. Remove the element bracket screws and lift the old element out. Position the new 318258203 element in the same location, secure the mounting bracket, and reconnect the terminal wires in the same positions as documented in your photo. Lower the cooktop, restore power, and test both bridge element power settings. Note: do not touch the haliant wire surface of the element during installation. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a bridge burner element and what is it used for?
A bridge burner element connects two adjacent burner zones on a glass-ceramic electric cooktop into one elongated heating surface. When activated, the bridge element heats the entire combined area — ideal for using a griddle, roasting pan, fish pan, or any large flat-bottomed cookware that spans more than one standard burner. When the bridge is not in use, each adjacent zone functions as its own independent standard burner. The bridge element activates when the bridge control is selected on the range's control panel.
What is a haliant element and how is it different from a standard radiant element?
A haliant (also called halogent or exposed coil radiant) element uses resistance wire that is partially exposed on the surface of the element body, rather than sheathed inside a smooth glass tube. Both types heat the glass-ceramic surface above them, but haliant elements tend to heat up faster and can reach higher surface temperatures than sheathed radiant elements. Minor surface cracks in the element's glass material do not affect heating performance — the resistance wire is what generates heat, and it functions independently of the outer covering.
How do I test if the bridge element has failed?
The most reliable test is a continuity check with a multimeter. Unplug the range, lift the cooktop, and disconnect the element's terminal wires. Probe the element's terminal connections with a multimeter set to resistance mode. A working element will show a resistance reading (typically between 10–100 ohms for the heating coil). An open circuit (no continuity / infinite resistance) confirms the element has burned out. You can also visually inspect the haliant wire for visible breaks, dark spots, or melted areas — any visible break in the wire confirms failure.
Why is it important to photograph the terminal wiring before removing the old element?
Bridge elements have multiple terminal connections for the dual power settings (1800W and 2600W). The wires must be connected to the correct terminals on the new element to ensure both power levels work correctly. If the wires are connected in the wrong order, the element may not heat at all, heat only on one setting, or may not be protected by the correct thermal limiter. Always take a clear photo of the old element's terminal connections before disconnecting anything, and use that photo as a reference when connecting the new element.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire to factory specifications. It is the exact same bridge surface element installed in compatible Frigidaire and Electrolux ranges from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
316490000 Oven Genuine OEM Temperature Sensor
Product Overview
The 316490000 Oven Genuine OEM Temperature Sensor is designed to accurately monitor oven temperature and ensure proper heating performance. This Oven Sensor Assembly is a Genuine OEM part for select Frigidaire oven models, designed to accurately measure the oven's internal temperature and communicate it to the control board. This ensures that the oven maintains the desired temperature setting during baking or roasting, providing consistent cooking results.
Quick Answer
If your oven is overheating, not heating properly, or showing incorrect temperature readings, the 316490000 temperature sensor may be faulty. Replacing it restores accurate temperature control and consistent cooking results.
Replaces Part Numbers
Replaces OEM part number: 316490000, 316490003, 1197392, 316490002, 612058426864, 7316490000, AH1528542, EAP1528542, AFR16190, PD00000483, OEM15854618, AP3963654, PS1528542.
Compatibility
This oven temperature sensor is compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and other compatible ranges and ovens.
Frigidaire Ranges & Ovens
Electrolux Appliances
Kenmore Ranges
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven overheating or under-heating
Inaccurate temperature readings
Uneven cooking results
Error codes related to temperature sensor
Key Features
Genuine OEM temperature sensor
Accurate temperature monitoring
Reliable and durable construction
Restores proper oven performance
Product Specifications
Part Number: 316490000
Part Type: Oven Temperature Sensor
Brand: OEM
Condition: New
OEM / Aftermarket: Genuine OEM
Application: Ovens & Ranges
Troubleshooting Guide
Oven too hot or too cold → Faulty temperature sensor
Food overcooking or under-cooking → Incorrect temperature readings
Error codes displayed → Sensor failure likely
When Should You Replace This Sensor?
Replace this sensor if your oven temperature is inconsistent, inaccurate, or if error codes indicate a sensor issue.
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect power before installation. Remove mounting screws, disconnect wiring, and install the new sensor securely. Refer to your appliance manual if needed.
Related Parts
Oven Control Board
Heating Element
Thermostat Components
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this sensor fit my oven?This sensor fits many Frigidaire and compatible models. Always verify your model number.
What does an oven temperature sensor do?It monitors oven temperature and sends signals to maintain accurate heat levels.
What are signs of a bad sensor?Inconsistent temperatures, error codes, or improper cooking results.
Is this OEM?Yes, this is a genuine OEM temperature sensor.
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