W10410997 Dryer Genuine OEM Drive Motor
Replaces Part Number: W10410997, 2118675, 33001753, 33001853, 33001854, 33002237, 33002462, 33002478, W10410997VP, WFR181207, AH3500892, EA3500892, OEM21090894, AP5272723, PS3500892.
Description: This Dryer Drive Motor is a Genuine OEM part for specific Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag dryer models. This motor is responsible for turning the drum and the blower wheel, which allows for effective drying and air circulation within the dryer. Over time, the drive motor can wear out or fail due to mechanical stress, electrical issues, or general wear from regular use. Causes of a bad drive motor include motor burnout, worn bearings, or issues with the electrical connections.
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279827 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor
The 279827 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dryer drive motor with pre-attached pulley, compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers. The drive motor is the component that powers everything that moves in your dryer — it turns the drum belt (which rotates the drum to tumble clothes) and simultaneously drives the blower wheel (which pushes heated air through the drum and out the exhaust vent). When the motor fails, the dryer either won't start, won't tumble, stops mid-cycle, or makes loud humming, buzzing, or grinding noises.
This is a dual-shaft motor: the drive shaft (1-3/4" long) connects to the drum belt via the pre-attached pulley, and the blower shaft (1-3/4" long) drives the blower wheel. The pulley is pre-attached and is not available separately — if your old motor's pulley is worn, this replacement includes a new one. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the 279827 is one of the most widely used dryer motors across the Whirlpool platform, replacing over 70 legacy part numbers spanning decades of production. Key cross-references include W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, 3391888, 3395652, AP3094245, PS334304, and EAP334304. Includes the motor assembly, two 1/8" insulated female terminals, and instructions. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse (electric dryers) and door switch first — a blown fuse or failed switch produces identical no-start symptoms and is a far cheaper fix. Installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The 279827 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers that won't start, won't tumble, stop mid-cycle, or make loud humming/buzzing/grinding noises. Dual-shaft drive motor with pre-attached pulley. Shaft lengths: blower 1-3/4", drive 1-3/4". Includes motor assembly + 2 insulated female terminals + instructions. Genuine OEM. Key cross-refs: W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, AP3094245, PS334304. Before replacing the motor: check the thermal fuse and door switch first — they're far cheaper fixes for no-start symptoms.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer won't start — motor has failed or seized
Dryer won't tumble — motor not powering the drum belt
Dryer stops mid-cycle — motor overheating or intermittently failing
Loud humming or buzzing when the start button is pressed — motor trying to start but can't
Grinding or squealing noise during operation — worn motor bearings
Motor runs but drum doesn't turn — pulley worn or belt slipping on a worn motor shaft
Dryer runs intermittently — motor cutting out from thermal overload
Burning smell from the motor area — overheating windings or seized bearings
Motor locked up or seized — bearings failed completely
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dryer drive motor directly replaces a large number of OEM and cross-reference part numbers spanning decades of Whirlpool-platform dryer production. Key replacements include:
279827, 3388235, 2019, 2584, 26000299992, 26000695925, 337099, 337100, 3388209, 3388234, 339088, 3391886, 3391887, 3392857, 339627, 339635, 339662, 339672, 340907, 343029, 345437, 348804, 349587, 349808, 3980069, 660199, 660617, 661654, 687499, 687988, 690094, 690870, 694051, 695089, 695925, 697075, 786067, 786090, 8066206, 8066207, 8115, 8528319, 8538262, 8539555, S87-531, W10194250, W10366770, W10396029, W10396032, W10448892, AH334304, AM211, EA334304, K35-099, OEM9282744, AP3094245, AWP39205, EAP334304, PD00002349, PS334304.
This is one of the most extensively cross-referenced parts in the Whirlpool catalog. If your old motor shows a part number not listed here, contact our support team with your dryer model number and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drive motor is compatible with select dryers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dryers — electric and gas models across many generations (WED, WGD, LER, LGR, LEQ, LGQ series and many more)
Maytag dryers — select Whirlpool-built models (MED, MGD, MEDC, MEDX series)
KitchenAid dryers (select models)
Jenn-Air dryers (select models)
Amana dryers — select models (NED, NGD series)
Magic Chef dryers (select models)
Admiral dryers (select models)
Norge dryers (select models)
Roper dryers (select models)
Estate dryers (select models)
Kenmore / Sears dryers — select Whirlpool-built models (110-series)
Important — Before Replacing the Motor: A dryer that won't start can be caused by several components that are far cheaper and easier to replace than the motor. Before ordering, check the thermal fuse (electric dryers — test for continuity with a multimeter), the door switch (test for continuity when pressed), and the start switch. All three produce identical no-start symptoms. Only replace the motor after ruling out these common causes — a motor replacement is a significant repair, and it's far cheaper to replace a $10 thermal fuse than a $150+ motor. Always verify your dryer model number before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Dryer drive motor — powers the drum (via belt and pulley) and the blower wheel simultaneously
Dual-shaft design: drive shaft 1-3/4" and blower shaft 1-3/4"
Pre-attached pulley (pulley is not available separately — included with the motor)
Resolves "won't start," "won't tumble," "stops mid-cycle," "humming/buzzing," "grinding," and "burning smell" symptoms when caused by motor failure
Includes motor assembly, two 1/8" insulated female terminals, and instructions
One of the most widely used dryer motors across the Whirlpool platform — replaces 60+ legacy part numbers
Key cross-references: W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, 3391888, AP3094245, PS334304, EAP334304
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers
Designed for heavy daily use with minimal noise
DIY repair — installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
279827
Part Type
Dryer Drive Motor with Pulley
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dryers — Electric & Gas (Whirlpool platform)
Drive Shaft Length
1-3/4"
Blower Shaft Length
1-3/4"
Pulley
Pre-attached (not sold separately)
Function
Powers drum rotation (via belt/pulley) and blower wheel
Kit Includes
Motor assembly, 2x 1/8" insulated female terminals, instructions
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Starting — 240V Circuit (Electric) or Gas Line (Gas) — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the breaker before beginning — electric dryers operate on a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock. For gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Pull the dryer away from the wall. Remove the lint screen and the screws beneath it. For most Whirlpool-platform dryers, remove the top panel by releasing the spring clips at the front, then detach the front panel by removing the screws at the top corners. Disconnect the door switch wires and set the front panel aside. Support the drum and slide it forward to access the motor at the bottom rear. Remove the drum belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley. Photograph the motor's wiring connections before disconnecting. Disconnect the electrical connections from the motor. Remove the blower wheel from the old motor's blower shaft — this typically requires a clamp or clip removal (the blower wheel threads off counterclockwise on many models). Remove the motor mounting clip/bracket and lift out the old motor. Install the new 279827 motor in the same position. Transfer the blower wheel onto the new motor's blower shaft and secure it. Reinstall the motor mounting clip/bracket. Reconnect the electrical connections using the included insulated female terminals if needed (match your photos). Re-route the drum belt around the drum, through the idler pulley, and onto the motor pulley. Reassemble the front panel, top panel, and lint screen. Restore power (and gas for gas dryers) and run a test cycle — confirm the drum spins smoothly and heated air flows through the drum. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, socket/ratchet set, putty knife (for spring clips), needle-nose pliers, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer won't start — is the motor definitely the problem?
Not necessarily — and this is important because a motor replacement is a significant repair. A dryer that won't start can be caused by several components that are far cheaper and easier to replace. Before ordering the motor, check these first: 1) Thermal fuse (electric dryers) — a blown thermal fuse is the single most common cause of a no-start condition. Test for continuity with a multimeter; if it reads open, replace the fuse (~$10). 2) Door switch — test for continuity when pressed; if it's failed, the dryer won't start as a safety measure. 3) Start switch — if pressing the start button produces no response at all, the start switch itself may have failed. Only replace the motor after ruling these out. Signs that point specifically to the motor: a loud humming or buzzing when you press start (motor trying but can't turn), grinding or squealing from the motor area, or a motor that runs intermittently and cuts out.
Why does the motor hum but the drum doesn't turn?
A humming motor that won't turn is a classic sign of a seized or failing motor — the windings are energized (hence the hum) but the shaft can't rotate because the bearings have failed or the motor is mechanically stuck. This can also be caused by the blower wheel being jammed with lint or debris, preventing the shaft from turning — so before condemning the motor, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If the blower wheel spins freely and the motor still hums without turning, the motor has failed and needs replacement. Note: a humming motor that won't start will eventually trip the thermal fuse as a safety measure, so you may need to replace both the motor and the thermal fuse.
Why are there so many cross-reference part numbers for this motor?
The 279827 is one of the most extensively cross-referenced parts in the Whirlpool catalog because it's been the standard dryer drive motor across the Whirlpool platform for decades — spanning Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, Kenmore, and many other brands that Whirlpool manufactures for. Over the years, the motor has been assigned different part numbers by different brands, distributors, and catalog systems (W10448892, W10396029, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, etc.), but they all point to the same motor. If your old motor shows ANY of those numbers, the 279827 is the correct replacement.
Does this motor come with the pulley?
Yes — the pulley is pre-attached to the motor and is not available separately. The pulley is what the drum belt rides on, transferring the motor's rotation to the drum. If your old motor's pulley was worn or grooved (a common cause of belt slipping and squealing), the new 279827 includes a fresh pulley. You will need to transfer the blower wheel from your old motor to the new one — the blower wheel is not included.
Should I replace the belt and idler pulley while changing the motor?
It's strongly recommended. When you replace the motor, the dryer is already apart and both the drum belt and idler pulley are right there in your hands. All three components wear from the same friction and heat cycles, and installing a new motor with a worn belt or a seized idler pulley puts unnecessary stress on the new motor from day one. Many technicians replace the belt, idler pulley, and drum support rollers as standard maintenance whenever the dryer is opened for a motor replacement — the combined cost of these parts is modest compared to the labor of disassembling the dryer again later.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same drive motor with pulley installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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XPARTCO WB24X10146 Microwave Door Switch
The XPARTCO WB24X10146 is an aftermarket replacement micro switch (also called a door interlock switch) compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, and Sears over-the-range and countertop microwaves. This is a "stand on" style normally-open (NO) interlock switch, identified by the internal designation KW3A-NO, that mounts near the door latch and only closes its circuit when the door is fully shut and latched. The control board reads this switch as part of a multi-switch safety interlock chain that confirms the door is secure before allowing the magnetron to energize.
When this switch fails, the microwave commonly won't start at all, trips a door-related error code, or in rare cases can allow the unit to run with the door not fully secured — which is a safety-relevant fault, not just a convenience one. It directly replaces WB24X10146, WB24X28941, MW-7100-33, AGE22794, AH1019163, AP3866977, 1166990, EA1019163, EAP1019163, PD00039881, PS1019163. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WB24X10146 Microwave Door Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore/Sears microwaves that won't start, display a door-related error code, or have a door that doesn't reliably confirm as closed. Normally-open (NO) "stand on" interlock switch, rated 250VAC / 16A, with 0.187" (4.7mm) quick-connect terminals. Replaces WB24X10146, WB24X28941, MW-7100-33, AGE22794, AH1019163, AP3866977, 1166990, EA1019163, EAP1019163, PD00039881, PS1019163. Classic symptom: turntable light and display work, but pressing Start does nothing.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Microwave won't start when Start is pressed, even though the display and light work
Door-related error code or fault light on the display
Microwave randomly shuts off mid-cycle
Door feels like it isn't latching or registering as closed
Clicking sound from the door area with no response from the microwave
Intermittent operation that seems tied to how hard the door is closed
⚠ Safety-Relevant Component Door interlock switches are safety components that prevent the magnetron from energizing unless the door is fully closed and latched. Never bypass, jumper, or defeat a microwave door switch to "get it working" — doing so can allow microwave energy to leak while the door is open, which is a genuine radiation safety hazard. Always disconnect power before servicing, and replace all interlock switches in the chain if more than one shows signs of wear.
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This microwave door switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WB24X10146, WB24X28941, MW-7100-33, AGE22794, AH1019163, AP3866977, 1166990, EA1019163, EAP1019163, PD00039881, PS1019163
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This door switch is compatible with a wide range of GE-built microwaves across the following brands:
GE over-the-range and countertop microwaves (JVM, PVM, and CEB series, including JEM3072DH1BB, JEM3072SH1SS, JNM3161DF2BB, and CCWK15C1W1DS/SS)
Hotpoint microwaves (GE-built models)
RCA microwaves (GE-built models)
Kenmore and Sears microwaves (select GE-built models)
Note: Do not confuse this with the similarly styled EXP499/EXP497 microwave door switches, which also use 4.7mm terminals but are not the same switch. WB24X10146 is a "stand on" style switch specific to GE's own interlock design — always match by part number, not terminal size alone. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering.
Key Features
Normally-open (NO) "stand on" door interlock switch, internal designation KW3A-NO
Resolves "won't start," "door error code," and "shuts off mid-cycle" symptoms caused by interlock switch failure
Rated 250VAC / 16A for reliable switching under microwave load
0.187" (4.7mm) quick-connect terminals for a secure wire connection
Direct-fit mounting to match the original interlock bracket
Replaces WB24X10146, WB24X28941, MW-7100-33, AGE22794, AH1019163, AP3866977, 1166990, EA1019163, EAP1019163, PD00039881, PS1019163
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, and Sears microwaves across dozens of models
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality and safety standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPWB24X10146
OEM Part Number
WB24X10146
Part Type
Microwave Door Interlock Switch ("Stand On" / KW3A-NO)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Switch Type
Normally Open (NO)
Voltage Rating
250VAC
Current Rating
16A
Terminal Width
0.187" (4.7mm)
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Sears
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Microwave Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet, and for built-in/over-the-range units also switch off the dedicated circuit breaker — microwaves store high voltage in the capacitor even after unplugging. Remove the outer cabinet or control panel cover to access the door switch assembly near the latch mechanism. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting, since GE microwaves typically use two or three interlock switches wired in sequence and mixing up the connections can leave the unit unsafe to operate. Disconnect the quick-connect terminals from the old switch, noting which wire goes to which terminal. Remove the mounting screw(s) holding the switch to its bracket and remove the old switch. Install the new WB24X10146 in the same position and secure it with the mounting screw(s). Reconnect the terminals exactly as photographed. Reassemble the cabinet or panel, restore power, and test that the door registers correctly and the microwave starts normally. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver (for cabinet screws).
Frequently Asked Questions
My microwave's display and turntable light work, but it won't start — is this the part?
This is a classic symptom of a failed door interlock switch. The control board needs a confirmed "door closed and latched" signal from all switches in the interlock chain before it will energize the magnetron. If that signal is missing from even one switch, most GE microwaves will power up normally but refuse to start a cook cycle. Confirm with a multimeter continuity test on the suspect switch before ordering, since GE microwaves usually use more than one interlock switch.
Is this the same as the EXP499 or EXP497 microwave door switch?
No — while all three use similar 4.7mm terminals, they are different switches used in different microwave platforms and are not interchangeable. WB24X10146 is GE's own "stand on" KW3A-NO design. Always match by part number rather than terminal size or general appearance.
Is it safe to keep using the microwave if I suspect this switch is bad?
We'd recommend not continuing to use it until it's repaired. Door interlock switches exist specifically to prevent microwave energy from leaking out while the door is open or not fully latched. If a switch is failing intermittently, the microwave may seem to work sometimes, but that's not a reason to keep using it — replace the switch before further use, and never attempt to bypass or jumper an interlock switch.
How many interlock switches does my GE microwave have, and do I need to replace them all?
Most GE microwaves use two or three interlock switches wired in sequence (often a primary switch, a secondary/monitor switch, and sometimes a door sensing switch). You typically only need to replace the specific switch that's testing bad, but if one has failed from age or wear, the others are often not far behind — some technicians replace the full set at once to avoid a repeat repair call.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO WB24X10190 Microwave Door Switch – Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, and RCA Microwaves
Product Description
Restore safe and reliable microwave operation with the XPARTCO WB24X10190 Microwave Door Switch. This high-quality replacement detects when the microwave door is closed, allowing power to flow safely to the control board. A faulty door switch can cause the microwave not to start, stop mid-cycle, or run with the door open. Installing this durable replacement ensures proper safety interlock function and restores dependable performance.
Replaces Part Numbers
WB24X10190, 1810589, AH3486598, PD00054718, EAP3486598, EA3486598, AP4980350, PS3486598.
Compatibility
This replacement door switch fits select GE, Hotpoint, and RCA microwave models.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): GE JVM1540LM1CS, GE JVM6175DK1WW, and Hotpoint RVM1535DM1BB.
Always verify your microwave’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Designed to match OEM safety and performance standards
⚡ Restores Safe Operation – Ensures microwave runs only when the door is properly closed
💰 Affordable Solution – High-quality part at a lower price than OEM versions
🛠️ Quick Installation – Direct-fit replacement installs in minutes with basic tools
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves microwaves not starting, stopping mid-cycle, or running with the door open
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: WB24X10190
Component Type: Microwave Door Interlock Switch
Material: Heat-resistant plastic housing with metal terminals
Mounting: Snap-in style for interlock bracket assembly
Operating Conditions: Rated for high-voltage microwave circuits
Compliance: Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the microwave before servicing. Capacitors can retain high voltage even when unplugged — use caution or contact a qualified technician.
Steps:
Unplug the microwave and remove the outer cover.
Locate the door latch assembly and access the switch bracket.
Disconnect the wiring harness and release the old switch from the bracket.
Install the new XPARTCO WB24X10190 switch in the same orientation.
Reconnect wires, reinstall the cover, and test operation.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–20 minutes
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Restore your microwave’s safety and performance — Add to Cart Now for a reliable, budget-friendly repair!
XPARTCO WB02X35488 (2 Pack) Microwave Halogen Light Bulb
Product Overview
The XPARTCO WB02X35488 Microwave Halogen Light Bulb provides bright interior illumination for your microwave, allowing you to clearly monitor cooking progress. Brighten your microwave with the replacement WB02X35488 Microwave Halogen Light Bulb. This high-quality Light bulb, designed for GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore/Sears microwaves, provides clear illumination for the interior or surface below, ensuring easy monitoring of your cooking. Featuring a G8 bi-pin base (120V, 50W, 3000K warm white), this durable halogen bulb offers reliable performance and easy installation.
Quick Answer
If your microwave light is dim, flickering, or not working, the WB02X35488 halogen bulb may be burned out. Replacing it restores clear visibility while cooking.
Replaces Part Numbers
Replaces OEM part number: WB02X35488, WB08X10057, WB08X10051, WB25X25393, WB36X10292, AGE368071, PD00070655, EAP6989401, AP6989401, PS16216934.
Compatibility
This microwave halogen light bulb is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and other GE-manufactured microwaves.
GE: CSA1201RSS01, CSA1201RSS02, CSA1201RSS03, CVM1790SS1SS, CVM1790SS2SS, JVM1790BK01, JVM1790CK01, JVM1790SK01, JVM1790WK01, JNM3163RJ1SS, JNM3163RJ2SS, JNM3163RJ3SS
Hotpoint: Select models requiring WB08X10057 or compatible halogen bulbs
Kenmore/Sears: Select models requiring WB08X10057 or compatible halogen bulbs
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Microwave interior light not working
Dim or flickering light
Reduced visibility while cooking
Key Features
Bright halogen illumination
Restores clear interior visibility
High-quality aftermarket replacement
Easy bulb replacement design
Product Specifications
Part Number: WB02X35488
Part Type: Microwave Halogen Light Bulb, 120V, 50W, G8 bi-pin base, 1.69" x 0.5", 3000K warm white, 2400 lumens, dimmable, 2000-hour average life, copper contacts.
Brand: XPARTCO
Condition: New
OEM / Aftermarket: Aftermarket
Application: Microwave Interior Lighting
Troubleshooting Guide
No interior light → Burned out bulb
Flickering light → Failing bulb
Dim light → Aging or damaged bulb
When Should You Replace This Bulb?
Replace this bulb if your microwave interior light is not functioning properly or has become dim or inconsistent.
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect power before installation. Allow the bulb to cool before handling and replace carefully according to your microwave model.
Related Parts
Microwave Door Switch
Control Panel
Turntable Motor
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this bulb fit my microwave?This bulb fits many GE and compatible models. Always verify your model number.
Is this a halogen bulb?Yes, this is a halogen light bulb designed for microwave use.
What are signs of a bad bulb?No light, dim light, or flickering indicates replacement is needed.
Is installation difficult?Most bulbs are easy to replace, but always follow your appliance manual.
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Genuine OEM WB26X44167 Wall Oven Convection Motor Kit
The Genuine OEM GE WB26X44167 is the convection motor kit for select GE wall ovens. The motor spins the convection fan blade that circulates hot air through the oven cavity for even heating. When it wears out, airflow weakens, the oven gets noisy, and convection performance drops.
This is the original GE part, not an aftermarket equivalent. It is sold as a kit. Check your model number before ordering.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WB26X44167 Convection Motor Kit replaces the convection fan motor on a compatible GE wall oven when it has failed. Replaces WB26T10069, WB26X21763, WB26X23476, WB26X27929 and WB26X31224. Classic symptoms: no convection heat, uneven baking, weak airflow, or a noisy oven fan.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
No convection heat, or the convection fan not working
Uneven baking
Weak airflow or declining convection performance
Increased noise from the oven fan
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This convection motor kit replaces or supersedes the following part numbers:
WB26X44167, WB26X23476, WB26X27929, WB26X31224, WB26T10069, WB26X21763, AGE22636, AP7193683, OEM21581058, EAP16742591, PD00089141, PS16742591
If your old motor shows a different number, contact our support team and we'll check whether it matches.
Compatibility
This convection motor kit is listed for GE, GE Profile and Café wall ovens, including these examples:
GE CT9050EK2DS, CT9050SH1SS, CT9070SH1SS
GE CT9550EK2DS, CT9550SH1SS, CT9570SL1SS
GE CTD70DM2N2S5, CTD70DP2N1S1
GE PT7550DF2BB, PT7550EH1ES, PCT7050DF2BB
Note: The models above are a sample, not a full list. GE sells several convection motor kits with different part numbers. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM GE part, not an aftermarket equivalent
Drives the convection fan that circulates hot air for even heating
Replaces five earlier GE convection motor part numbers
Sold as a kit
Product Specifications
Part Number
WB26X44167
OEM Part Number
WB26X44167
Part Type
Wall Oven Convection Motor Kit
Condition
Genuine OEM
Manufacturer
GE
Quantity
1 Kit
Application
Select GE Wall Ovens
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Installing Shut off the oven's circuit breaker or unplug the oven before you begin, let the oven cool, and wear work gloves. Remove the oven's rear cover per your model's service guide to reach the motor, disconnect the wire connector, and remove the old motor. Install the new motor, reconnect the wiring, refit the cover, restore power, and run a convection cycle to confirm the fan runs quietly.
Frequently Asked Questions
My oven fan is noisy or not turning. Is this the part I need?
It can be. With the oven off and cool, turn the fan blade by hand. If it is hard to turn, the motor bearings may be worn. A multimeter continuity check on the motor can confirm a failed motor.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part from GE, not an aftermarket equivalent.
What is in the kit?
It is sold as a convection motor kit. Retailers do not itemize the contents, so contact our support team if you need to confirm them before ordering.
Will this fit my wall oven?
It is listed for many GE wall oven models, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
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WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor
The WR60X10209 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement DC condenser fan motor compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators in the GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE, and related series. The condenser fan motor is located near the compressor at the rear bottom of the refrigerator. It circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the hot refrigerant before it returns to the evaporator — this is an essential step in the refrigeration cycle. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and condenser coils, causing the refrigerator to run continuously, cool inefficiently, or trip the compressor's thermal overload protection.
This Genuine OEM part is manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is a DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W with a 4-pin plastic connector and four color-coded wires (white, blue, red, and yellow). It directly replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, WR60X10209-24PK, 1195784, AP4265957, AH1483567, EA1483567, and PS1483567. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor fixes GE refrigerators that are not cooling properly, running continuously, making unusual noise from the back, or where the compressor is overheating. 11.3V DC, 2.2W, 4-pin connector (white/blue/red/yellow wires). Genuine OEM. Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, AP4265957, PS1483567. Compatible with GE GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE series and Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator not cooling properly — condenser fan not circulating air across coils
Refrigerator running continuously without reaching set temperature
Compressor overheating — heat not being dissipated from condenser area
Unusual noise or grinding from the back or bottom of the refrigerator
Condenser fan motor visibly not spinning when compressor is running
Refrigerator cycling off frequently on thermal overload protection
Food spoilage — refrigerator unable to maintain safe temperatures
Replaces Part Numbers
This condenser fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR60X10209, 1195784, WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, 045900390950, 197D2407P013, AGE29194, AH1483567, EA1483567, EAP1483567, AP4265957, PD00001176, PS1483567.
Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This condenser fan motor is compatible with a wide range of refrigerators from the following GE product lines:
GE refrigerators — GSS series (GSS22, GSS23, GSS25, GSS26 and related side-by-side models)
GE refrigerators — GSL series (GSL22, GSL25 and related models)
GE refrigerators — GCE series (GCE21, GCE23 and related models)
GE refrigerators — PCE and PSS series (PCE23, PSS25, PSS26 and related Profile models)
GE refrigerators — PSC series (PSC23, PSC25 and related Profile models)
GE Monogram refrigerators — ZIS, ZISB series (select models)
GE Café refrigerators (select models)
Hotpoint refrigerators — HSS series (HSS22, HSS25 and related models)
RCA refrigerators (select GE-built models)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select GE-built models)
Haier refrigerators (select GE-platform models)
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the refrigerant and maintain efficient refrigeration cycle operation
DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W — runs on DC voltage supplied by the refrigerator's control board
4-pin plastic connector with color-coded wires (white, blue, red, yellow) — direct plug-in installation on compatible models
Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, and AP4265957
Compatible with GE GSS/GSL/GCE/PCE/PSS/PSC, Hotpoint HSS, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café, and RCA refrigerators
DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR60X10209
Part Type
Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Refrigerators (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer)
Voltage
11.3V DC
Wattage
2.2W
Connector
4-pin plastic plug
Wire Colors
White, Blue, Red, Yellow
Location
Near compressor at rear bottom of refrigerator
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator before beginning. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear lower back panel. Remove the screws securing the back panel to expose the compressor, condenser coils, and condenser fan assembly. The condenser fan motor is mounted on a bracket near the compressor with the fan blade facing the condenser coil. Take a photo of the wire connector orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the 4-pin wire connector from the motor. Remove the mounting screws securing the motor to the bracket and slide the old motor out. Note the orientation of the fan blade on the motor shaft — the blade must be reinstalled in the same direction on the new motor (or transferred from the old motor if the new motor does not include a blade). Install the new WR60X10209 motor, reconnect the wire connector, reinstall the back panel, restore power, and confirm the condenser fan spins when the compressor starts. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the condenser fan motor do in a refrigerator?
The condenser fan motor drives a fan blade that circulates ambient air across the condenser coils at the rear of the refrigerator. The condenser coils carry hot high-pressure refrigerant that has just been compressed — the fan removes heat from the refrigerant so it can cool, condense, and return to the evaporator to absorb heat from inside the refrigerator. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and coils, causing the refrigerator to lose cooling efficiency, run continuously, or — in severe cases — trip the compressor's thermal overload and shut down entirely.
Why does this motor use DC voltage instead of AC?
Modern GE refrigerators use DC motors for the condenser fan because they are more energy-efficient, quieter, and easier to speed-control by the refrigerator's electronic control board than traditional AC motors. The refrigerator's main control board converts household 120V AC power to 11.3V DC to supply the condenser fan motor. This DC motor runs at a variable speed under board control, which allows GE's refrigerators to optimize fan speed based on cooling demand.
How do I confirm the condenser fan motor has failed?
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug it, and remove the rear lower panel. Spin the condenser fan blade by hand — if it is stiff, wobbles, or seizes, the motor bearing has failed. If the blade spins freely but the motor does not run when the refrigerator is plugged in and the compressor starts, check for DC voltage at the motor connector using a multimeter. If the board is supplying approximately 11–12V DC to the motor but the motor is not running, the motor has failed electrically. If no voltage is present, the control board may not be supplying power — a less common but possible failure mode.
Does this motor come with the fan blade?
The WR60X10209 is the motor only — the fan blade is typically not included and should be transferred from the old motor. When removing the old motor, carefully pull the fan blade off the motor shaft (it presses on — no hardware is typically needed). Press the blade onto the new motor shaft in the same orientation. If the fan blade is cracked or damaged, it should be replaced separately. Installing the blade in the wrong direction will reverse the airflow direction and reduce cooling efficiency.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same DC condenser fan motor installed in compatible GE, Hotpoint, and related brand refrigerators from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WPW10348269 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Motor
The WPW10348269 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM drain pump motor for Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Roper dishwashers. This pump uses an electric motor to create suction, pulling wastewater out of the tub and expelling it through the drain hose at the end of each cycle. This is the dedicated drain pump, distinct from a circulation pump — such as our WPW10605057 listing — which handles spraying water through the spray arms during the wash itself rather than draining it afterward.
Rated 120VAC, 60Hz, 45W, 0.7A, with a run time pattern of 5 minutes on, 30 minutes off. Ships as a complete pump motor with impeller and O-ring. If the impeller becomes damaged or the motor shorts out and stops draining, the pump body itself can crack over time, leading to leakage — replacing the pump before that happens is the more reliable fix. Symptoms of a failing drain pump include water not draining from the tub, unusual noise such as grinding during the drain phase, or visible leaks from underneath the unit. It directly replaces W10348269, W10084573, 661662, 8558995, 8565839, W10158351, WPW10348269VP, AP6020066, AWP49992, PD00004898, PS11753379
Quick Answer
The WPW10348269 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Motor fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Roper dishwashers that aren't draining, are making grinding noise during the drain phase, or are leaking from underneath. 120VAC, 60Hz, 45W, 0.7A. Includes impeller and O-ring. Replaces W10348269, WPW10348269VP, W10084573, W10158351, 661662, 8558995, 8565839, 2813258, AP6020066, EAP11753379, PD00004898, PS11753379. This is the drain pump — a separate part from our WPW10605057 circulation pump listing, which handles spraying water rather than draining it.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not draining — standing water left in the tub after a cycle
Grinding noise coming from the drain pump area
Water leaking from underneath the dishwasher
Cycle stalling or failing to advance past the drain step
Dishes not getting cleaned as a downstream effect of drainage problems
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher drain pump motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10348269, W10348269, W10084573, 661662, 8558995, 8565839, W10158351, WPW10348269VP, AP6020066, AWP49992, PD00004898, PS11753379
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drain pump motor is compatible with select Whirlpool dishwashers, and also fits select KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Roper dishwashers built on the Whirlpool platform.
Note — drain pump, not circulation pump: This is the dedicated drain pump, which removes wastewater from the tub. It is a separate part from our WPW10605057 listing, which is the circulation pump and diverter motor responsible for spraying water through the spray arms during the wash itself. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which pump your dishwasher needs.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified motor and impeller design
Pumps wastewater out of the tub through the drain hose
Resolves "not draining," "grinding noise," and "leaking underneath" symptoms caused by pump failure
Complete assembly — includes pump motor, impeller, and O-ring
Rated 120VAC, 60Hz, 45W, 0.7A
Run time: 5 minutes on, 30 minutes off
Dimensions: approximately 3-1/2"L x 3"W x 3-1/2"H
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces W10348269, W10084573, 661662, 8558995, 8565839, W10158351, WPW10348269VP, AP6020066, AWP49992, PD00004898, PS11753379
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10348269
Part Type
Dishwasher Drain Pump Motor (with Impeller and O-Ring)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Function
Pumps wastewater out of the tub through the drain hose
Voltage
120VAC
Frequency
60 Hz
Wattage
45 W
Amperage
0.7 A
Run Time
5 min ON / 30 min OFF
Dimensions
Approx. 3-1/2"L x 3"W x 3-1/2"H
Color
White / Gray / Black / Yellow
Related Part
WPW10605057 circulation pump & diverter motor (different function, sold separately)
Repair Difficulty
Beginner to Moderate
Quantity
1 drain pump motor
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher Before Starting — Removing The Unit Makes Access Easier Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. This repair can be done without pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter, but many technicians find it considerably easier to access the pump if you do pull the unit out first. Remove the lower rack and any components blocking access to the tub floor, then work from underneath the dishwasher to reach the drain pump. Test the old pump for continuity with a multimeter before removing it — if it shows no continuity, or if it's getting power but still won't run, that confirms the pump has failed. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector and the drain hose connection from the old pump, remove its mounting hardware, and pull it free. Install the new WPW10348269 in the same position, reconnect the drain hose connection securely, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reinstall any components removed for access and the lower rack. Restore power, run a test cycle, and check underneath for leaks while confirming the tub drains completely at the end. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 5/16" nut driver, 5/8" wrench, flathead screwdriver, multimeter, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to pull the dishwasher out from under the counter for this repair?
Not strictly — this pump can be replaced without fully removing the dishwasher. That said, several customers who've done this repair note that pulling the unit out first makes access considerably easier, since you're working from underneath the appliance either way. If you have the space to pull it out, it's worth doing to make the job smoother.
How do I know if the pump has actually failed?
Test the pump motor with a multimeter set to continuity before replacing it. If there's no continuity, or if the pump is receiving power but still won't run, that confirms the motor has failed and the pump should be replaced. This quick check avoids replacing a part that isn't actually the problem.
My old pump was leaking. Why does that happen?
If the impeller becomes damaged or the motor shorts out and stops running, the pump body itself can develop a crack over time, which leads to leakage. Rather than trying to repair a leaking pump, replacing the complete assembly resolves both the drainage failure and the leak at the same time.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original motor, impeller, and hose connection configuration of the drain pump originally installed in your dishwasher.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
4681JB1029D Refrigerator Genuine OEM Condenser Fan Motor
Fits Specific LG, Kenmore Refrigerator Models
Replaces Part Numbers: 4681JB1029D, EAU61644104, 1267566, AH3523330, EA3523330, OEM17751134, AP4437783, PS3523330.
Description: This Condenser Fan Motor is a Genuine part for specific LG, Kenmore refrigerator models. This motor is responsible for powering the fan that cools the condenser coils, which helps dissipate heat from the refrigerator. Proper functioning of the condenser fan motor is crucial for maintaining the efficiency and cooling performance of the refrigerator.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
