DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with Samsung & Kenmore Washers
Product Description
Restore proper water flow and dependable washer operation with the DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved inlet valve precisely controls water entering the washer during fill cycles. A defective valve may cause no-fill issues, slow filling, water leaks, or error codes. Installing this Genuine OEM water valve ensures exact fit, correct water pressure, and long-lasting performance as designed by the manufacturer.
Replaces Part Numbers
DC62-00311F, PD00043649, EAP11719654, AP5966624, 3992244, PS11719654.
Compatibility
This Genuine OEM washer water inlet valve fits select Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-manufactured) washers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Samsung WF203ANS, WF206ANS, WF209ANSKenmore 592.49003, 592.49005
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🧩 Genuine OEM Replacement – Factory-certified for exact fit and performance
💧 Accurate Water Control – Ensures proper fill levels during wash cycles
🔧 Durable Solenoid Construction – Designed for reliable long-term use
🛠️ Direct-Fit Installation – No modifications required
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves no-fill, slow fill, leaking, or error codes
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DC62-00311F
Component Type: Washer Water Inlet Valve
Voltage: 120V AC
Water Connections: Hot & Cold
Material: OEM-grade reinforced plastic with metal solenoids
Mounting: Rear cabinet direct-fit
Compliance: Genuine OEM certified
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before servicing.
Steps:
Disconnect power and turn off water supply.
Remove the rear access panel.
Disconnect inlet hoses and wiring harness from the old valve.
Remove mounting screws and take out the old valve.
Install the new DC62-00311F water valve and secure it.
Reconnect hoses and wiring, restore water and power, and test for leaks.
⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes
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🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders
⚙️ Genuine OEM Replacement Part
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore proper washer filling with confidence — Add to Cart Now for a factory-quality repair!
DC62-30314V Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with Samsung & Kenmore Washers
Product Description
Restore proper water filling and dependable washer performance with the DC62-30314V Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved inlet valve precisely controls hot and cold water flow into the washer during fill cycles. A failing water valve can cause no-fill issues, slow filling, error codes, or poor wash results. Installing this Genuine OEM valve ensures exact fit, correct water pressure, and long-lasting reliability.
Replaces Part Numbers
DC62-30314V, PD00054103, EAP11719664, AP5966634, 3992464, PS11719664.
Compatibility
This Genuine OEM washer water inlet valve fits select Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-manufactured) washers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Samsung WF45R6100AW, WF42H5000AWKenmore 592.49045, 592.49303
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🧩 Genuine OEM Replacement – Factory-certified for exact fit and performance
💧 Accurate Water Flow Control – Ensures proper filling during wash cycles
🔧 Durable Solenoid Design – Built for consistent operation and long service life
🛠️ Direct-Fit Installation – No modifications required
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves no-fill, slow fill, error codes, or weak water flow
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DC62-30314V
Component Type: Washer Water Inlet Valve
Voltage: 120V AC
Water Connections: Hot & Cold
Material: OEM-grade reinforced plastic with metal solenoids
Mounting: Rear cabinet direct-fit
Compliance: Genuine OEM certified
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before servicing.
Steps:
Disconnect power and turn off water supply.
Remove the rear access panel.
Disconnect inlet hoses and wiring harness.
Remove mounting screws and take out the old valve.
Install the new DC62-30314V valve and secure it.
Reconnect hoses and wiring, restore water and power, and test for leaks.
⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes
📦 Shop With Confidence
🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders
⚙️ Genuine OEM Replacement Part
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore proper washer filling and reliable performance — Add to Cart Now for a factory-quality repair!
🚰 DD82-01588A Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve – Genuine OEM Samsung Part
🔁 Replaces These Part Numbers
DD82-01588A (primary OEM)
Also Replaces PS12593084, AP6807545, DD81-02265A, AP6244375, PS12085633.
Description: This Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly is essential for regulating the water flow into dishwasher, ensuring optimal cleaning performance. This replacement Genuine OEM part is engineered to provide precise water control, preventing leaks and maintaining efficient operation.
✅ Key Features
Genuine Samsung OEM part – DD82-01588A
Precision-engineered to match factory standards
Controls cold water intake with accurate timing and pressure
Easy to install using standard tools
Tested for leak-free performance
🔧 Fixes Common Symptoms
Dishwasher won’t fill or fills slowly
Error codes related to water inlet
No water intake at cycle start
Valve leaks or hums without water flow
🚚 Why Buy from Parts‑O‑Matic?
✅ Genuine OEM quality — not a knock‑off
✅ Always Fast and Free U.S. shipping
✅ Expert customer support for part fitment
✅ Trusted by DIYers and appliance professionals
🛒 Restore proper water fill and cycle reliability — order your DD82-01588A OEM water inlet valve today from Parts‑O‑Matic and enjoy speedy, free delivery.
DC62-00266G Washer Water Inlet Valve
Cold Side Water Valve
Fits specific Samsung washer models.
Description: This Water Inlet Valve is a replacement part for specific Samsung washing machine models. It controls the flow of water into the washer during the fill cycles, ensuring the proper amount of water is delivered for each wash load. This valve opens and closes to allow water to enter the tub from the household water supply, making it a critical component for the washing machine's operation.
Replaces Part Numbers:DC62-00266G, AP5966622, PS11719652
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
W11175771 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve
The W11175771 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers, located behind the lower kick plate panel in either the right or left corner. This valve controls the flow of water into the appliance during the wash cycle — an electrical solenoid plunger opens and closes the valve to admit exactly the right amount of water at the appropriate stages of the dishwasher's cycle.
Measuring approximately 3.37" in height, this is a superseding part, replacing the earlier W10872255 and W11130744 valve numbers so older models can be updated with the current version. Over time, a screen inside the valve can become clogged with sediment — this screen isn't designed to be cleaned or serviced, so a clog means the whole valve needs to be replaced. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the dishwasher not filling with enough water or not filling at all, leaking into the dishwasher while not in use, or overfilling with too much water. It directly replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, and W11130743.
Quick Answer
The W11175771 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers that aren't filling with water, are leaking, or are overfilling. Located behind the lower kick plate panel. Replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, W11130743. While the dishwasher is disassembled for this repair, consider also checking or replacing the water supply adapter, since it's in the same area and easy to inspect at the same time.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with enough water, or not filling at all
Water leaking into the dishwasher while it's not in use
Dishwasher overfilling with too much water
High-pitched whining sound while the dishwasher is filling
Poor washing results or an error code related to water fill
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11175771, 3015468, 328C151-T, 4451572, 4843711, AP5804368, AP6024301, AP6339872, EAP11738107, EAP12578165, EAP3406951, AWP43823, PD00052484, PS11738107, PS12578165
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool dishwashers, and also fits select Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WDF130PAHB1, WDF130PAHB2, WDF130PAHS1, WDF130PAHS2, WDF130PAHW2, WDF330PAHB3, WDF330PAHW4, WDF331PAHB1, WDF520PADB9, WDF520PADM, WDT730PAHZ, WDT720PADM, WDF330PAHS, ADB1400AGW, KDTE104ESS1, and Kenmore 66513222N410 through N414.
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since similar-looking dishwasher water valves can vary between models. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate
Regulates water flow into the dishwasher via an electrical solenoid plunger
Resolves "won't fill," "leaking," "overfilling," and "whining noise" symptoms caused by valve failure
Superseding part — current replacement for the earlier W10872255 and W11130744 valves
Approximately 3.37" in height
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces AP6339872, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, W10327249, W10316814, and W11130743
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, and Inglis dishwashers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11175771
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Behind the lower kick plate panel, right or left corner
Height
3.37"
Supersedes
W10872255, W11130744
Screen Serviceable
No — replace valve if clogged
Repair Difficulty
Easy to Moderate — approx. 15 to 30 minutes
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Crosley, Magic Chef, Inglis
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the bottom front kick plate to access the interior, where the valve is located behind the panel in either the right or left corner depending on your model. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the water line, the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws securing the old valve, then pull it free. Install the new W11175771 in the same position, securely reconnect the water line and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screws. While you're in this area, it's worth inspecting the water supply adapter for wear, since it's a related part in the same location that's easy to check while everything is already accessible. Reinstall the kick plate, restore the water supply and power, then run a test cycle to confirm the dishwasher fills correctly with no leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water at all. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the most direct symptom of a failed water inlet valve. Since this valve is what admits water from your household supply into the dishwasher, a solenoid failure or internal blockage can prevent any water from entering at all, stopping the wash cycle from proceeding.
Can I just clean the valve's screen instead of replacing the whole thing?
No — the screen inside this valve isn't designed to be cleaned or serviced. If it becomes clogged with sediment from your household water supply, the entire valve should be replaced rather than attempting to clean or repair the screen itself.
My dishwasher makes a high-pitched whining sound while filling. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is a documented symptom of a failing water inlet valve. One customer specifically traced an "obnoxious high-pitched whining sound when filling with water" to this exact valve and resolved it with a straightforward replacement in about 15 minutes.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the water inlet valve originally installed in your dishwasher.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WPW10327249 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve
The WPW10327249 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers, mounted on the right-hand side of the dishwasher's interior behind the front kick plate. This valve regulates the flow of water into the appliance during each cycle, opening to admit water from the household supply and closing once the correct amount has entered, which is essential to proper filling and efficient operation.
Over time, mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve body, or general electrical wear in the solenoid, can cause the valve to fail. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the dishwasher not filling with water at all, water filling inconsistently or too slowly, leaking, or overfilling. It directly replaces AP6019618, W10316814, W10327249, W11130743, WPW10327249VP, 3015511, PS11752927, and W11669945.
Quick Answer
The WPW10327249 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers that won't fill with water, fill inconsistently, leak, or overfill. Located on the right-hand side of the dishwasher interior. Replaces W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927. While the dishwasher is disassembled for this repair, consider also checking or replacing the water supply adapter (W10685193), since it's in the same area and easy to inspect at the same time.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with water at all
Water filling inconsistently or too slowly
Dishwasher leaking near the valve area
Dishwasher overfilling
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10327249, W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select Whirlpool dishwashers, and also fits select Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WDT750SAHZ, WDTA50SAHZ, WDT710PAYM, MDB4949SDM, and MDB4949SHZ.
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since similar-looking dishwasher water valves can vary in size or shape between models. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate
Regulates water flow into the dishwasher during each fill cycle
Resolves "won't fill," "fills inconsistently," "leaking," and "overfilling" symptoms caused by valve failure
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Novice-friendly repair with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10327249
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Right-hand side of the dishwasher interior, behind the front kick plate
Color
Blue
Water Line Connections
Two 3/8" lines
Repair Difficulty
Medium — basic appliance repair skills
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the water supply at the shutoff valve located behind the dishwasher before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the bottom front kick plate by pulling outward on the two clips located at either side of the bottom panel. Locate the water inlet valve on the right-hand side of the dishwasher interior. Disconnect the two 3/8" water lines from the old valve. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the valve in place, and carefully pull the old valve away from the dishwasher. Insert the new WPW10327249 into the dishwasher, making sure it's securely positioned, and secure it with the mounting screws. Reconnect both water lines to the new valve. While you're in this area, it's worth inspecting the water supply adapter for wear, since it's a related part in the same location that's easy to check while everything is already accessible. Turn the water supply back on and plug the dishwasher back into the power source. Run a test cycle to confirm the dishwasher fills correctly with no leaks. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, standard pliers, adjustable wrench, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water at all. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the most direct symptom of a failed water inlet valve. Since this valve is what admits water from your household supply into the dishwasher, a solenoid failure or internal blockage can prevent any water from entering at all, stopping the wash cycle from proceeding.
Should I check or replace the water supply adapter while I have the dishwasher open?
It's a reasonable idea, since the water supply adapter is a related component located in the same general area and is easy to inspect while you already have access. It doesn't need to be replaced automatically, but checking its condition at the same time can save you from needing to open the dishwasher back up again soon after if it's also showing wear.
My dishwasher is leaking near the valve. Could hard water be a factor?
Yes, mineral and sediment buildup from hard water is a common contributor to valve failure over time, since it interferes with the valve's ability to seal and shut off properly. Using a dishwasher cleaner periodically to help reduce limescale buildup can support the longevity of the new valve, though it isn't a substitute for replacing a valve that has already failed.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the water inlet valve originally installed in your dishwasher.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve
The W11168743 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool top-load washers. This is a single-solenoid valve dedicated specifically to hot water, with a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. When the wash cycle calls for hot water, the valve's solenoid opens to admit it from your home's hot water supply line; once the correct fill level is reached, it closes again.
Rated 120V, 60Hz. Common causes of failure include wear and tear over time, clogging from mineral deposits or sediment in the water supply, and electrical faults that prevent the valve from opening or closing properly. A failing hot water valve typically shows up as the washer not filling properly or not filling at all, slow or irregular water flow even when the inlet screens are clear of obstruction, no hot water reaching the tub, or water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. It directly replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068.
Quick Answer
The W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool top-load washers (and select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore washers) that won't fill, fill slowly, have no hot water reaching the tub, or leak water inside the drum when not running. 1-solenoid, 1-inlet, 1-outlet hot water valve. 120V, 60Hz. Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, 33390068. This is the hot valve — the matching cold valve for the same platform is a separate part, W11168740.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling properly, or not filling at all
Water flow slow or irregular even when inlet screens are clear
No hot water reaching the tub during the wash cycle
Water dripping or leaking inside the tub when the washer isn't running
Washer not washing properly due to insufficient hot water
Washer that won't start because it's stuck waiting for water
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11168743, 1873019, 33390068, 4585634, W10240948, W10921515, WPW10240948, AP6017592, AP6327638, EAP11750891, EAP12348074, PS11750891, AWP43142, OEM18982923, PD00040928, PS12348074.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, and Ikea washers built on the Whirlpool platform.
Note — hot valve, not cold: This is the hot water valve. The matching cold water valve for the same Whirlpool top-load platform is a separate part, W11168740 (blue body, 2-solenoid). The two are not interchangeable, so replace the correct one for the symptom you're seeing — or both if you're unsure which is causing the issue. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration
Dedicated hot water valve — standard hose fitting inlet, single water outlet
Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "no hot water," and "leaking inside the tub" symptoms caused by valve failure
Rated 120V, 60Hz
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore top-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11168743
Part Type
Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Top-Load Washers
Voltage
120V
Frequency
60 Hz
Solenoids
1
Inlets
1 (standard hose fitting)
Outlets
1
Companion Part
W11168740 (cold water valve, 2-solenoid, sold separately)
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the hot water supply valve before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically from the rear of the washer: remove the screws securing the top or rear panel to reach the valve. Have a towel handy for residual water when you disconnect the supply hose. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the hot water supply hose, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place, then pull it free. Install the new W11168743 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. While you're in there, it's also worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a loose or damaged hose at that connection can produce similar fill or leak symptoms. Restore the water supply and check for leaks before restoring power. Run a test cycle to confirm the washer fills normally with hot water. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if it's the hot valve or the cold valve that's failed?
Pay attention to which water temperature is affected. If the washer isn't getting hot water but cold-water fills work fine, this hot valve (W11168743) is the likely cause. If the opposite is true, the cold valve (W11168740) is more likely the issue. If both hot and cold fills are affected, or you're not sure, it's worth checking both valves before ordering.
I have water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. Is this the valve?
Yes, likely one of the two inlet valves. A worn internal seal can let water seep through even when the valve should be fully closed, causing exactly this symptom. Since there are two valves (hot and cold) on this platform, you may need to inspect both to determine which one is leaking, or replace both if you're unable to isolate it.
The valve and hoses look fine but water flow is still irregular. What else should I check?
If the inlet screens are clear of obstruction and water flow is still weak or inconsistent, it's worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a kink, clog, or loose connection there can produce similar symptoms to a failing valve. Household water pressure and any inline filter screens are also worth ruling out.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and hose connection configuration of the hot water inlet valve originally installed in your washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO BPV-31 Refrigerator Refrigerant Piercing Valve / Line Tap Valve Kit
The XPARTCO BPV-31 is a universal bullet piercing tap valve (line tap valve) used to quickly access a sealed refrigerant line on refrigerators, freezers, window air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and other HVAC systems — without soldering or brazing. The valve clamps around a copper refrigerant line and, when the valve stem is tightened with the included hex key, a hardened piercing needle punctures the tubing to create an access port. This lets a technician connect a charging hose or gauge to check pressure, pull a vacuum, or add refrigerant to a system that has no factory service port. It's a staple tool for appliance service and DIY refrigerator/freezer repair.
Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes with the included adapters. The access port connection is a 1/4" male flare fitting. Rated to 500 PSI maximum, with a patented permanent gasket providing over 180 inch-lbs of sealing force — around 50 times the sealing area of a standard O-ring type valve — pressure tested at 250°F. Corrosion-resistant metal (zinc alloy) construction with a piercing needle engineered for concentricity and hardness to seat perfectly every time. Non-positional mounting requires no separate adapter valve and only 2" of clearance for installation. Each kit includes the piercing valve, a hex key wrench, and 2 adapters. It replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO BPV-31 Refrigerant Piercing Valve Kit taps into a sealed copper refrigerant line to add refrigerant, check pressure, or pull a vacuum — no soldering required. Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" OD pipes. 1/4" male flare port connection. 500 PSI max, patented gasket (50x the sealing area of an O-ring). Zinc alloy metal. Includes piercing valve, hex key, and 2 adapters; only needs 2" clearance. Replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, MPV31. Not suitable for R410a systems.
Common Uses This Kit Serves
Adding refrigerant to a refrigerator or freezer that has no factory service port
Checking system pressure on a sealed refrigerant line for diagnostics
Pulling a vacuum on a system during service
Recharging window air conditioners and dehumidifiers
Confirming whether a sealed system has lost its refrigerant charge (leak diagnosis)
Providing temporary or service access to copper refrigerant tubing without brazing
Reviving a garage/shop refrigerator or freezer that has slowly lost its charge
Accessing R-12, R-22, R-134a, and other compatible refrigerant systems (NOT R410a)
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This bullet piercing tap valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
BPV-31, BPV31, BPV31D, AP4502525, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, MPV31
The BPV-31 is a universal valve that covers the GPV-series (GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56) and MPV31 across the pipe sizes they individually served. Contact our support team if you need help confirming the correct valve for your line size.
Compatibility
This bullet piercing valve is a universal tool compatible with sealed refrigerant systems using copper tubing, including:
Refrigerators and freezers — all major brands with 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" OD copper refrigerant lines
Window air conditioners — for recharging and pressure checks
Dehumidifiers — sealed refrigerant systems
Other HVAC systems with compatible copper line sizes
Refrigerant compatibility — works with R-12, R-22, R-134a and other common refrigerants
Important — NOT for R410a Systems: This BPV-31 piercing valve is NOT rated for R410a refrigerant systems, which operate at significantly higher pressures than the valve's design allows. Using it on an R410a system is unsafe. Before use, confirm your line's outside diameter (1/4", 5/16", or 3/8") and select the correct included adapter. Verify the pipe size before installation.
Key Features
Bullet piercing tap valve — taps a sealed copper refrigerant line to create an access port without soldering or brazing
Fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes (with included adapters)
1/4" male flare access port connection for charging hoses and gauges
500 PSI maximum pressure rating
Patented permanent gasket — over 180 inch-lbs of sealing force, ~50 times the sealing area of a standard O-ring type valve; pressure tested at 250°F
Piercing needle engineered for concentricity and hardness to seat perfectly every time
Corrosion-resistant zinc alloy metal construction — won't rust or wear out over time
Non-positional mounting — no separate adapter valve required, installs in any orientation
Compact design needs only 2" of clearance for installation and use
Each kit includes: 1 piercing valve, 1 hex key wrench, 2 adapters
Replaces AP4502525, BPV31, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31
NOT suitable for R410a refrigerant systems
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPBPV-31
Part Type
Bullet Piercing Tap Valve (Line Tap Valve Kit)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerators, Freezers, Window AC, Dehumidifiers, HVAC (sealed copper lines)
Compatible Pipe Sizes
1/4", 5/16", 3/8" outside diameter
Port Connection
1/4" Male Flare
Maximum Pressure
500 PSI
Sealing Force
180+ inch-lbs (patented gasket, ~50x O-ring sealing area)
Pressure Tested
250°F
Material
Corrosion-resistant zinc alloy metal
Mounting
Non-positional, 2" clearance required
Kit Includes
1x Piercing Valve, 1x Hex Key, 2x Adapters
Not Compatible With
R410a refrigerant systems
Installation Notes
⚠️ Refrigerant Safety Warning Working with sealed refrigerant systems can expose you to pressurized refrigerant, which can cause frostbite, eye injury, and other harm. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves before piercing any line. Refrigerant handling may be regulated in your area — certain refrigerants require EPA certification (in the US) to purchase and handle. Never vent refrigerant to the atmosphere. This valve is NOT rated for R410a systems (too high pressure). If you're not experienced with refrigerant systems, have this work done by a qualified HVAC or appliance technician.
⚠️ Installation Steps — Clean the Line First Put on safety glasses and protective gloves. Identify the copper line you want to tap and confirm its outside diameter (1/4", 5/16", or 3/8") so you can select the correct included adapter. Clean the section of pipe where the valve will mount to prevent debris from entering the refrigerant line. Ensure the composite seal "O" ring/gasket is properly in place inside the valve. Place the two halves of the valve saddle around the pipe using the appropriate adapter insert for your pipe size. Install and evenly tighten the socket-head screws to clamp the valve body firmly around the pipe. To pierce the line, turn the valve stem clockwise with the included hex key until the needle punctures the tubing, then back the stem out (counterclockwise) to open the port and allow flow. To connect a gauge or charging hose: remove the cap, attach your hose to the 1/4" flare port, and open the valve by turning the stem counterclockwise. When finished, close the valve (turn the stem clockwise) BEFORE disconnecting the hose, then reinstall the protective cap. Note: the compact valve needs only 2" of clearance around the pipe. Tools needed: Included hex key wrench, safety glasses, protective gloves. (Note: to attach a gauge directly to the BPV, a retrofit valve adapter may be required — not included.)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a bullet piercing valve used for?
A bullet piercing valve (line tap valve) lets you tap into a sealed copper refrigerant line to create an access port — without cutting, soldering, or brazing the line. Most household refrigerators and freezers are sealed systems with no factory service port, so if you need to check the refrigerant pressure, pull a vacuum, or add refrigerant, a piercing valve gives you that access quickly. It clamps around the pipe, and a needle pierces the tubing when you tighten the valve stem. It's commonly used in appliance repair and HVAC service, and by DIYers reviving a garage refrigerator or freezer that has lost its charge.
Which pipe sizes does this fit?
The BPV-31 fits 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" outside diameter copper pipes using the included adapters. Before installing, measure or confirm your refrigerant line's outside diameter and select the matching adapter insert. Getting the size right is essential for a proper seal — an incorrectly sized adapter won't clamp tightly and can leak. If you're not sure of your line size, measure the outside diameter of the copper tubing with calipers or a pipe gauge.
Can I use this on an R410a system?
No — the BPV-31 is NOT rated for R410a refrigerant systems. R410a operates at significantly higher pressures than older refrigerants like R-12, R-22, and R-134a, and exceeds the safe working pressure of this valve (500 PSI max). Using it on an R410a system is unsafe and could result in valve failure or refrigerant release. This valve is appropriate for lower-pressure systems using R-12, R-22, R-134a, and similar refrigerants. For R410a systems, use service equipment specifically rated for R410a pressures.
Is a piercing valve a permanent solution?
Piercing valves are best thought of as a service-access tool rather than a permanent fixture. They work reliably for tapping into a line to diagnose, vacuum, or charge a system, and the BPV-31's patented gasket provides a much stronger seal than basic O-ring valves. However, for a long-term permanent service port, many technicians prefer to cut the line and braze in a proper Schrader service port. Some technicians have concerns about the very long-term sealing of any piercing valve left permanently on a line. If you leave the valve installed, make sure the stem is closed and the cap is in place, and check periodically for leaks.
Do I need EPA certification to add refrigerant?
In the United States, handling many refrigerants (and purchasing them) requires EPA Section 608 certification, and it is illegal to intentionally vent refrigerant to the atmosphere. Regulations vary by refrigerant type and jurisdiction. The piercing valve itself is a tool that anyone can install, but the refrigerant handling that follows may be regulated. If you're a DIYer, research the rules that apply to your specific refrigerant and location, or have the refrigerant work done by a certified technician. Always recover refrigerant properly rather than venting it.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket universal service tool built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. The BPV-31 is a universal industry-standard bullet piercing valve design (also sold as Supco BPV31 and equivalent), manufactured from corrosion-resistant zinc alloy to match the fit, 1/4"/5/16"/3/8" pipe compatibility, 1/4" flare port, 500 PSI rating, and patented-style sealing gasket of the standard BPV-31 line tap valve. It replaces AP4502525, BPV31D, GPV14, GPV31, GPV38, GPV56, and MPV31.
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XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The XPARTCO W11688995 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault
LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow
Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill
Replaces Part Numbers
This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped
Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW11688995
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Blue / White
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault)
Often Paired With
Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers?
Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes.
My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve?
Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688995 cold water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve
The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it.
Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle
Washer fills much more slowly than normal
Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for
Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles
F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum
Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091
W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models)
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models)
Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models)
Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0.
Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure
Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes
Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve
Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710
Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10599356
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Actuation
Solenoid-operated
Connections
Hot and cold water supply inlets
Supersedes
W10509710
Repair Difficulty
Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad?
It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause.
Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve?
Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting.
Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve?
Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair.
Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there?
It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
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W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The W11688995 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers. Whirlpool's newer front-load platforms use two separate single-function valves instead of one combined hot/cold valve body — this cold-side valve handles only the cold water supply, while a matching hot-side valve (sold separately as W11688994) handles the hot side. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes this valve's solenoid coils to open the water path; when the correct level is reached, the valve closes again. If this valve fails to open, the washer won't take on cold water; if it fails to seal fully closed, water can trickle into the drum even when the washer isn't running.
Because this is a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here shows up in a very specific way: cold-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while hot-only fills (governed by the separate W11688994 valve) continue working normally. Whirlpool's own service guidance links this valve to F8 E1 and LO FL fill-related error codes. Common failure modes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn internal diaphragm. It directly replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730. As a genuine OEM part, the W11688995 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or throws an F8 E1 or LO FL error code. 120V, 50/60Hz, two-coil cold-only valve, 1/2" NPT threaded connections. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, EAP17216730. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11688994.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally
Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to
Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for
Water trickling or leaking into the drum on the cold side when the washer is off
F8 E1 or LO FL error code displayed on the control panel
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cold-wash or cold-rinse cycles specifically affected while warm/hot cycles run fine
Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
W11486361 and W11316256 were earlier Whirlpool numbers for this same valve, with W11036930 preceding those. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW and MFW series (select Whirlpool-built models)
Amana front-load washers (select models)
Inglis front-load washers — IFW series (select models)
Select Kenmore front-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform
Verified model numbers include: 8TWFC6810LW0 (laundry center), IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4, MFW7020RF0, MFW7020RU0, MFW7020RW0, MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HC1, MHW5630HC2, MHW5630HC3, MHW5630HW0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630HW2, MHW5630MBK0, MHW6630HC0 through MHW6630HC3, MHW6630HW0 through MHW6630HW3, MHW6630MBK0, MHW8630HC0 through MHW8630HC3, MHW8630HW0 through MHW8630HW3, WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW5620HW0 through WFW5620HW3, WFW6620HC0 through WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1, WFW8620HC0 through WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0 through WFW8620HW4, WFW862CHC0, and WFW862CHC1.
Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11688994. The two are not interchangeable — each is a dedicated single-function valve, and installing this cold valve in place of the hot valve (or vice versa) will not correctly control water temperature. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
Dedicated cold-only water inlet valve — two internal coils control flow to the cold supply
Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure
Commonly resolves F8 E1 and LO FL error codes
1/2" NPT threaded connections for standard supply line hookups
Direct drop-in replacement for W11036930, W11316256, and W11486361
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, and select Kenmore front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11688995
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Voltage
120V
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Coils
2 (dedicated cold water function)
Connection
1/2 in. NPT threaded
Companion Part
W11688994 (hot water valve, sold separately)
Supersedes
W11036930, W11316256, W11486361
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, select Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply line from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit side by side and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old cold valve, remove its mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the hot valve (W11688994) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11688995 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the cold water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle set to a cold wash and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part?
Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Because your washer uses two separate single-function valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve (W11688994) keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing, this cold valve is the correct part to replace.
Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time?
Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11688995 valve alone is sufficient. If both hot and cold fills are having problems, or if the valves are original and quite old, some people choose to replace both at once since they're already accessing the same area — but it's not required.
My washer shows an F8 E1 or LO FL error. Does that mean this valve is bad?
It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. These codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm the cold supply valve at the wall is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris, and make sure the cold fill hose isn't kinked. If those check out and cold water still won't fill properly, this valve is the likely cause.
Can I use this valve on the hot water side instead?
No. This is a dedicated cold-water valve, and the hot-water side uses a separate part number, W11688994. The two are built and calibrated for their specific supply line and are not interchangeable — installing the cold valve on the hot side (or vice versa) will not properly control water temperature during the cycle.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same two-coil solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the cold water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve
The 285805 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold supply hoses connect, and it controls every drop of water entering the tub — energizing to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together when the control calls for a fill, and closing again once the correct level is reached. It's one of the longest-running, most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, the same platform that our 8318084 lid switch listing also serves.
This is a complete kit: it ships with the mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions, and it accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 threaded NHT ports. Depending on production run, the valve body may arrive blue or green — both are correct and function identically. Over years of use, mineral and sediment buildup (especially calcium deposits from hard water) can restrict or block the valve, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber seals can simply wear out with age. A blocked or failing valve commonly shows up as slow filling, no fill on one side, continuous filling that won't stop, or leaking after the cycle ends. It directly replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517.
Quick Answer
The 285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers that won't fill, fill slowly, won't stop filling, leak after the cycle, or have no hot or no cold water. Complete kit with mounting bracket, screws, and instructions. Dual-port valve for a 1/2" ID hose, two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections, approximately 5.7" tall. Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, W10110517. The included bracket may be shaped differently than your original integrated bracket — you may need to test a couple of orientations to get the hose connections positioned correctly.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle
Washer fills much more slowly than normal
Washer won't stop filling — overfilling past the normal level
Water leaking or dripping from the washer after the cycle has ended
No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub
Washer not washing properly due to insufficient or incorrect-temperature water
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Hot water inlet blocked by calcium or mineral deposits after years of hard-water use
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
285805, 285805VP, AP3094541, 21026, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, W10110517, AH334646, EA334646, AWP39626, PD00002373, PS334646.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washers and washer/dryer laundry centers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool top-load washers and laundry centers
Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana top-load washers (select models)
Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, and Estate top-load washers (select models)
Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric top-load washers (select models)
Select Kenmore and Ikea top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform
Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's direct-drive top-load platform, including stackable washer/dryer laundry centers — the same general platform used by our 8318084 lid switch listing. It is not intended for front-load washers, which use a different valve design. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
Complete kit — includes mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions
Dual-port design accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections
Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "won't stop filling," and "leaking after cycle" symptoms caused by valve failure
One of the most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive top-load platform
Approximately 5.7" tall, metal and plastic construction
Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, and related direct-drive top-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
285805
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve Kit
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Direct-Drive Top-Load Washers / Laundry Centers
Kit Contents
Water inlet valve, mounting bracket, screws, instructions
Ports
2 (hot and cold)
Hose Compatibility
1/2" ID
Thread Specification
Two 3/4"-11 x 1/2" NHT hose threads
Height
Approx. 5.7 in.
Material
Metal and plastic
Color
Blue or green (both correct — varies by production run)
Quantity
1 valve kit
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Bracket Orientation May Take Trial And Error Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the washer away from the wall for access, then disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve — have a towel ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the screws securing the rear or top cabinet panel (on some stackable laundry centers, the entire top enclosure lifts off as one piece, which also disconnects the lid switch wiring harness at the rear — note this connector's location before pulling the panel free). Photograph the wiring and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Unplug the wiring harness from the old valve, remove its mounting screws, and pull it free along with its bracket. Some original valves used an integrated bracket, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to fit different configurations — you may need to test a couple of orientations before the hose connections line up correctly with your existing hoses. Mount the new 285805 to the bracket, secure it in the cabinet in the same general position as the old valve, and reconnect the wiring harness. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the cabinet panel, reconnecting the lid switch harness if applicable, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My valve is blue but the old one was green (or vice versa). Did I get the wrong part?
No — this is normal. The 285805 has shipped with either a blue or a green valve body depending on the production run, and both are the correct, fully functional part. The color has no effect on fit or performance.
The new valve's bracket doesn't match my old one. What do I do?
This is a known and expected difference. Many original valves used a bracket integrated directly into the valve body, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to accommodate different washer configurations. It may take a little trial and error to find the orientation that positions the valve correctly for your existing hose connections — this is a bracket design difference, not a sign that the wrong part was sent.
Only hot water won't fill, but cold works fine. Is that this valve?
Yes, likely — and often it's specifically mineral or calcium buildup rather than outright failure. Hot water tends to accelerate scale buildup inside the valve port compared to cold, so after many years of hard water use, the hot side can become restricted or fully blocked while the cold side continues working normally. Replacing the valve resolves this since the internal ports aren't designed to be cleaned out once heavily scaled.
My washer won't stop filling. Is that dangerous, and is it this valve?
It can lead to overflow and water damage if left unaddressed, so it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if this happens rather than waiting. A valve that won't stop filling usually means a worn internal seal or diaphragm is no longer sealing shut when the solenoid de-energizes, letting water continue flowing. This valve is the correct replacement for that symptom.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same dual-port solenoid design, thread specifications, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your direct-drive top-load washer or laundry center.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout