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WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve The WH13X10029 is a genuine GE OEM water inlet valve for GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers. This is a 2-inlet, 3-outlet valve assembly built around three internal solenoids: two work together during the wash portion of the cycle, opening in different combinations depending on the wash temperature you select, while the third solenoid handles the dedicated cold-only rinse. Because three separate solenoids share one valve body, a failure in any single one of them can affect only part of your washer's fill behavior while the rest continues working normally. Rated 120V, 60Hz, and measuring approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H, this valve ships as a complete 3-solenoid assembly with its mounting bracket included. Common failure symptoms include the washer continuing to fill after it should have stopped, slow filling, or a complete failure to fill on one specific water temperature setting while others work fine. It directly replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392. As a genuine OEM part, the WH13X10029 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve fixes GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers that won't shut off after filling, fill slowly, or won't fill on a specific temperature setting (such as cold-only rinse) while other settings work fine. 2-inlet, 3-outlet, 3-solenoid valve assembly with mounting bracket, 120V, 60Hz, 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H. Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, PS1482392. Genuine OEM — manufactured by GE to factory specifications for guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer keeps filling and won't shut off, even after reaching the correct level Washer fills much more slowly than it used to Washer won't fill at all on one specific temperature setting while other settings work normally Cold-only rinse cycle failing to fill while wash-cycle fills work fine (or vice versa) Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Water leaking or dripping near the valve connections Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a fill-related fault Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH13X10029, 33090039, PD00001515, EAP1482392, AGE26067, AH1482392, EA1482392, AP4303282, PS1482392. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water valve is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers, including model families such as GFA, GFW, GMA, and WBV, and specific models such as GFWS1600H, GFWS1605H, GFWS1700H, and GFWS1705H. Note: This valve is specific to GE's front-load washer platform. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration Complete 3-solenoid water valve assembly — 2 inlets (hot and cold), 3 outlets Two solenoids manage the wash-cycle fill combinations by temperature selection; a third handles cold-only rinse Resolves "won't shut off," "fills slowly," and "won't fill on a specific temperature setting" symptoms caused by valve failure Includes the mounting bracket — no need to transfer hardware from the old valve Rated 120V, 60Hz Approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number WH13X10029 Condition Genuine OEM Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve (2-In / 3-Out, 3-Solenoid) Brand GE Application Front-Load Washers Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Inlets 2 (hot and cold) Outlets 3 Solenoids 3 (one double, one single, one dedicated cold-rinse) Dimensions 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H Kit Contents Valve assembly + mounting bracket Quantity 1 valve assembly Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Stackable Units May Need A Second Person Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. If your washer is part of a stacked laundry center, the dryer sitting on top will need to be removed first to access the top of the washer — this is much easier with a second person helping to lift and support the dryer safely. Remove the screws securing the top panel of the washer, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve, keeping a towel handy for residual water. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything, since this valve has multiple solenoids and outlet hoses that must be reconnected in the correct positions. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the three outlet hoses from the old valve, then remove its mounting screws and pull it free along with its bracket. Install the new WH13X10029 assembly in the same position, reconnect all three outlet hoses to their original positions, reconnect the electrical connectors, and secure the mounting screws. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses, tightening securely. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings, including a cold-only rinse if your washer has one, to confirm each solenoid is filling and shutting off correctly. If this is a stackable unit, carefully reposition the dryer back on top once testing is complete. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves, and a helper for stackable units. Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't shut off and keeps filling. Is that this valve? Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing valve on this platform. A worn internal seal on one of the three solenoids can fail to close fully, letting water continue flowing even after the correct fill level is reached. Since this could lead to overflow, it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if you notice this happening rather than waiting to address it. Only my cold-only rinse doesn't fill, but regular wash cycles work fine. Do I need the whole valve? Yes. This valve houses three separate solenoids in one assembly — two that combine for wash-cycle fills at different temperatures, and one dedicated specifically to the cold-only rinse. If just one of those three has failed, the others can continue working normally, which is exactly why a single-cycle fill problem can appear alongside otherwise normal operation. The three solenoids aren't sold or serviced individually, so replacing the complete assembly is the correct repair even if only one function is affected. Do I really need to remove the dryer if this is a stacked unit? On most stacked laundry centers, yes — the top panel of the washer sits underneath the dryer, so the dryer needs to come off first to get access. This is a heavier, more awkward step than the rest of the repair, so it's worth having a second person help lift and support the dryer safely rather than attempting it alone. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same 3-solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration as the water valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve The XPARTCO W10599356 is an aftermarket replacement water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for hot and cold supply connections Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 OEM Part Number W10599356 (formerly W10509710) Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration of the original W10599356 / W10509710 valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WR57X30890 Refrigerator Genuine Water Valve Water inlet valve assembly with Wire Harness Replaces Part Numbers: WR57X30890, WR57X26569, WR57X30891, AP6891693, PS12727426. Description: This water inlet valve is a Genuine OEM part for select GE Refrigerator models, responsible for controlling the flow of water into the refrigerator's ice maker and water dispenser. It is typically located at the back of the appliance, near the water supply line. The water inlet valve features quick-connect fittings for easy installation and ensures a reliable and steady supply of water for ice production and dispensing.  

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XPARTCO 5221ER1003S Washer Water Valve The XPARTCO 5221ER1003S is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve for LG and select Kenmore front-load washers. This valve sits underneath the top panel, at the point where the cold water supply hose connects, and it's the gatekeeper for cold water entering the tub. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes the valve's solenoid to open, admitting water; once the correct level is reached, it closes again. This part controls the cold water side specifically — hot fills on these washers are governed by a separate valve. Rated 12V and terminated with small male spade connectors, this valve measures approximately 4.75"H x 3.25"W x 2.25"L, with a gray plastic and metal housing. Over time, rust and mineral buildup inside the valve body — a documented failure point on this platform — can prevent it from sealing fully, which lets water continue flowing even after the valve is told to close. A washer that keeps filling even while draining, or that leaks steadily at the cold connection, is a strong sign of exactly this kind of stuck-open valve failure. Other failure modes include a burned-out solenoid coil and general wear from age. It directly replaces 4869496, AP6798394, PS12587936, and EAP12587936, and is also cross-referenced to the related 5221ER1003A part number. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 5221ER1003S Washer Water Valve fixes LG and select Kenmore front-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, keeps filling continuously (even while draining), or leaks at the water connection. 12V cold water inlet valve, small male spade terminals, 4.75"H x 3.25"W x 2.25"L. Replaces 4869496, AP6798394, PS12587936, EAP12587936. Rust and mineral buildup inside the valve body is a documented cause of it sticking open — check for rust at the connection before you order. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with cold water at the start of the cycle Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer keeps filling continuously, even while water is simultaneously draining out Water leaking steadily at the cold water connection point Visible rust or mineral buildup around the valve body or connection Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply line Cold wash or cold rinse cycles specifically affected while other cycles run fine Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 5221ER1003S, 5221ER1003A, 4869496, AP6798394, PS12587936, ALG51905, PD00057211, EAP12587936 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select LG front-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore front-load washers built on the LG platform, including model numbers such as: LG WM4000HBA, WM4000HWA, WM3400CW, WM3470CW LG W3600HVA Kenmore WKE100HVA (select LG-built models) Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve. Some LG front-load washers use a separate hot water valve for the hot supply connection — if hot water fills normally but cold does not, this valve is the correct part; if the issue affects both hot and cold fills, the problem may lie elsewhere in the fill circuit. This valve is specific to LG's front-load platform and is not intended for top-load washers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve for LG and select Kenmore front-load washers Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "keeps filling continuously," and "leaking at the connection" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 12V with small male spade terminal connections for a secure electrical fit Gray plastic and metal housing, approximately 4.75"H x 3.25"W x 2.25"L Direct drop-in replacement — mounts underneath the top panel at the original connection point Replaces 4869496, AP6798394, PS12587936, and EAP12587936 Compatible with LG and select Kenmore front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair using basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 5221ER1003S OEM Part Number 5221ER1003S (also 5221ER1003A) Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold Condition Aftermarket Replacement Brand LG Application Front-Load Washers Voltage 12V Electrical Connection Small male spade terminals Color Gray Material Plastic and metal Height 4.75 in. Width 3.25 in. Length 2.25 in. Location Underneath the top panel, dispenser and control panel assembly Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands LG, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer and shut off the cold water supply valve before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the washer away from the wall for access. Unthread the cold water supply line from the back of the valve first — have a towel ready, since residual water will spill out. Unthread the two screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly underneath. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the spade terminal wire connectors from the old valve, remove its mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free. While it's out, inspect the area for rust or mineral scale, and clean the connection point if needed before installing the new valve. Install the new 5221ER1003S in the same position, reconnect the spade terminals, and secure the mounting hardware. Rethread the cold water supply line onto the new valve, tightening securely. Reinstall the top panel and its two screws. Restore the water supply and power, then run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: channellock pliers, flathead screwdriver, pliers, drill/driver with a Phillips bit, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer keeps filling even while it's draining. Is that this valve? Yes, this is a well-documented failure mode on this platform. Rust and mineral buildup inside the valve body can prevent it from sealing fully closed, so water keeps trickling or flowing into the tub even after the fill portion of the cycle has ended — sometimes enough to keep pace with draining, making it look like the washer is filling and draining simultaneously. If you open up the top panel and see rust around the valve, that strongly confirms this diagnosis. Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — this valve controls cold water specifically, and some LG front-load washers use a separate valve for the hot supply. If cold-specific cycles are failing while hot water fills normally, this cold valve is the correct part to replace. I see rust on my old valve but it isn't leaking yet. Should I still replace it? It's worth strongly considering. Rust and mineral buildup on this valve is a known precursor to it sticking partially open, which can lead to continuous filling, water waste, and potential water damage if it isn't caught. If you're already inspecting the area and see corrosion forming, replacing the valve proactively is often cheaper and easier than dealing with an active leak later. What's the difference between 5221ER1003S and 5221ER1003A? These are cross-referenced as the same valve — 5221ER1003A appears on some parts diagrams and listings as an alternate or prior designation for the identical part. If your washer's diagram shows either number, this listing is the correct replacement. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured to match the 12V solenoid design, spade terminal connections, and dimensions of the original 5221ER1003S cold water valve used in compatible LG and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10212596 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve Description: This Whirlpool valve is an OEM replacement part responsible for regulating and controlling the flow of cold water into the washing machine. This part is located at the rear of the washing machine and is connected to the cold water supply line. It opens and closes to allow the cold water to enter the washer when needed, such as during the initial filling of the machine or when rinsing clothes with cold water. Replaces Part Numbers:WPW10212596, W10212596, 1551647, AP6017174, PS11750469, WPW10212596VP.     California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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ERP 316011200 Range Top Burner Spark Igniter Electrode The 316011200 is an aftermarket replacement gas range surface burner spark igniter electrode compatible with select Frigidaire, Tappan, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore, and Danby gas ranges and cooktops. The spark igniter electrode is the ceramic-and-metal tip mounted next to each surface burner that generates the electrical spark needed to ignite the gas when a burner knob is turned. When the electrode cracks, corrodes, or its internal wiring degrades, it will produce a weak or absent spark — causing the burner to not light, to require a long hold of the ignition button, or to click repeatedly without igniting. Made from porcelain and metal, each electrode measures 3/4"L x 1/2"W x 1-3/8"H and is sold individually. One electrode is used per surface burner — most gas ranges have 4 or 6 surface burners, each with its own electrode. It directly replaces AP2123862, 5303311262, 464, AH436633, EA436633, EAP436633, PS436633, LP11343, and PD00000522. Installs in 15–30 minutes depending on model disassembly required. Note: While this part is involved in a gas appliance, the electrode itself is not a gas component — it carries only a low-voltage electrical signal from the ignition module. Always unplug the range and shut off the gas before beginning any repair. Quick Answer The 316011200 Range Top Burner Spark Igniter Electrode fixes Frigidaire-platform gas ranges where a surface burner won't light, requires a long hold to ignite, sparks continuously without lighting, or produces a weak clicking sound. Porcelain/metal, 3/4"L x 1/2"W x 1-3/8"H. Sold individually — one per burner. Compatible with Frigidaire, Tappan, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore, and Danby gas ranges. Replaces AP2123862, 5303311262, 464, EA436633, PS436633, LP11343. Common Problems This Part Fixes Surface burner will not light — electrode not producing a spark Burner requires holding the ignition knob for an extended time before the gas lights Burner sparks repeatedly (rapid clicking) without ever lighting the gas One burner does not spark while all others work normally — that burner's electrode has failed Weak or intermittent spark at a specific burner Electrode visibly cracked, chipped, or tip broken off Corrosion or moisture damage to the electrode tip or wiring from a cooking spill Replaces Part Numbers This spark igniter electrode directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 316011200, 5303311262, AFR16248, AH436633, AP2123862, EA436633, EAP436633, LP11343, PD00000522, PS436633. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This spark igniter electrode is compatible with select gas ranges and cooktops from the following brands: Frigidaire gas ranges and cooktops Tappan gas ranges and cooktops Electrolux gas ranges (select models) Gibson gas ranges Kelvinator gas ranges White-Westinghouse gas ranges Kenmore / Sears gas ranges (Frigidaire/Electrolux-built models) Danby gas ranges (select models) Note: This electrode is sold individually — one electrode per burner. Most gas ranges have 4 or 6 surface burners, each with its own electrode. If multiple burners are not lighting, you may need to order multiple electrodes. Always verify your model number before ordering to confirm this electrode fits the specific burner assembly on your range. Key Features Generates the electrical spark that ignites the gas at each surface burner when the ignition knob is turned Porcelain insulator body with metal electrode tip — designed to withstand continuous thermal cycling near the burner flame Dimensions: 3/4"L x 1/2"W x 1-3/8"H — matches original electrode dimensions for compatible Frigidaire-platform models Sold individually — one electrode per surface burner; order one per failed burner Replaces AP2123862, 5303311262, 464, EA436633, PS436633, LP11343, and EAP436633 Compatible with Frigidaire, Tappan, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore, and Danby gas ranges Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 316011200 Part Type Gas Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter Electrode Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Gas Ranges and Cooktops Material Porcelain / Metal Color White / Gray Dimensions 3/4"L x 1/2"W x 1-3/8"H Sold As Single electrode (one per burner) Compatible Brands Frigidaire, Tappan, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore, Danby Installation Notes ⚠️ Gas Appliance Safety — Unplug and Shut Off Gas Before Starting This part is installed on a gas range. Always unplug the range from the power outlet and shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve before beginning any repair. If you smell gas at any point during or after installation, leave the area immediately and contact your gas utility provider. Do not restore gas or power until the repair is complete and you have confirmed there are no gas connections disturbed during the repair. ⚠️ Range Top Access May Require Lifting the Cooktop On most Frigidaire-platform gas ranges, the spark igniter electrodes are mounted beneath the cooktop surface and accessed by lifting the top panel — this requires removing all grates and burner caps, then lifting the top from the front. The electrode is secured by a single screw and connected to the ignition module by an insulated wire. Disconnect the wire, unscrew the mounting screw, and remove the old electrode. Install the new 316011200 electrode in the same position, tighten the mounting screw, and reconnect the wire. Important: inspect the insulated wire carefully for damage — if the wire is cracked or bare in any section, it may arc to the stove body and should be repaired with heat-resistant tape or replaced before installing the new electrode. Restore gas and power and test the burner. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, possibly a nut driver for some models. Frequently Asked Questions What does the spark igniter electrode do? The spark igniter electrode is the small ceramic-and-metal tip mounted next to each surface burner on a gas range. When you turn a burner knob to the "light" or "ignite" position, the ignition module sends a high-voltage electrical pulse through the wire to the electrode tip. This creates a visible electrical spark that jumps between the electrode tip and the metal burner cap, igniting the gas. The electrode itself carries only a brief electrical pulse — it does not directly handle gas — but it must be in good condition with an intact porcelain body and clean metal tip to produce a reliable, consistent spark. One burner won't light but all the others work — is it the electrode? Almost certainly yes. When all other burners spark normally but one does not, the fault is almost always isolated to that burner's electrode or its connecting wire — not the ignition module (which powers all burners) or the gas supply (which feeds all burners). Inspect the electrode on the non-lighting burner: look for cracks, chips, or a broken tip on the porcelain body. Also check the connecting wire for corrosion at the connection point or damage to the insulation. Replacing the 316011200 electrode on that burner will restore normal ignition in most cases. My burner clicks continuously even when not trying to ignite — what causes this? Continuous clicking when no burner is being lit is typically caused by moisture or food residue on the electrode tip or in the burner cap area creating an unintended electrical path — the ignition module detects a spark condition and keeps firing. Clean the electrode tip, burner cap, and burner head thoroughly with a dry cloth or soft toothbrush, and allow them to dry completely. If cleaning stops the clicking, a cracked or degraded electrode that is allowing moisture to reach the internal wiring is the likely underlying cause — replace the electrode to prevent recurrence. If the clicking persists after the burner area is completely clean and dry, the ignition module may be faulty. How many electrodes does my gas range need? Each surface burner on a gas range has its own dedicated spark igniter electrode — one electrode per burner. A standard 4-burner gas range uses 4 electrodes; a 5- or 6-burner range uses 5 or 6. This listing is for a single electrode. If multiple burners are not lighting, order one electrode for each affected burner. When replacing one electrode, it is a good opportunity to inspect all other electrodes for cracks or corrosion and replace any that show visible wear at the same time. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Frigidaire OEM part, but is manufactured from porcelain and metal to match the dimensions and performance of the original 316011200 surface burner spark igniter electrode. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO PB04001 Oven Bake Igniter for Viking Replaces 065650-000 The XPARTCO PB04001 is an aftermarket replacement oven bake igniter compatible with select Viking gas ranges with hot surface ignition systems, including the CVDSC, EVGIC, EVGRT, VDSC, VGIC, VGRT, VGSC, VGSS, and VGGT series. The oven bake igniter is a flat glow bar hot surface igniter — it draws electrical current through the oven's gas safety valve to open it, then heats to ignition temperature to light the gas burner. When the igniter weakens or fails, the oven will not heat, will take too long to reach temperature, or the igniter will glow but the burner will never light. This is a silicon carbide flat-style igniter with a 2.25-inch white ceramic body and 4.5-inch overall length. Wire leads extend approximately 12.5 inches from the igniter body with female insulated terminals for plug-in installation. Ceramic wire nuts for spliced installation are included. Rated 3.2–3.6 amps at 120V AC — the correct amperage range to open the Viking oven gas safety valve. It directly replaces 065650-000, PB040001, 792263, AP5315579, AP7180264, SGR4001, SGR40001, GR40001, RP712, and AR402. Sold individually. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO PB04001 Oven Bake Igniter fixes Viking gas ranges where the oven won't heat, takes too long to preheat, or the igniter glows but the burner never lights. Flat silicon carbide glow bar, 3.2–3.6A, 120V AC. Ceramic body 2.25", overall 4.5", leads 12.5" with female terminals. Ceramic wire nuts included. Sold individually. Compatible with Viking CVDSC, EVGIC, EVGRT, VDSC, VGIC, VGRT, VGSC, VGSS, VGGT series. Replaces 065650-000, PB040001, 792263, AP5315579, AP7180264, SGR4001. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating at all — igniter has failed or burned out Oven takes much longer than normal to preheat Igniter glows orange but the gas burner never lights Gas smell when oven is turned on but burner does not light Oven heats on first use but fails to relight during subsequent heat cycles Igniter visibly cracked, broken, or dark/charred at the ends Oven baking inconsistently or shutting off heat mid-cycle Replaces Part Numbers This oven igniter directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 065650-000, AP7180264, PB040001, PB04001, 792263, SGR40001, GR40001, RP712, AR402 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This oven igniter is compatible with select Viking gas ranges with hot surface ignition (glow bar) systems, including the following series: Viking CVDSC series — CVDSC365-4G, CVDSC485-6G and related models Viking EVGIC series — EVGIC305, EVGIC365, EVGIC485 and related models Viking EVGRT series — EVGRT360, EVGRT480, EVGRT600 and related models Viking VDSC series — VDSC365, VDSC367, VDSC485, VDSC487 and related models Viking VGIC series — VGIC245, VGIC245G, VGIC245K, VGIC245Q, VGIC305, VGIC367 and related models Viking VGSC series — VGSC300, VGSC305 and related models Viking VGSS series — VGSS300, VGSS480 and related models Viking VGRT and VGGT series — VGRT360, VGGT240 and related models Note: This igniter is for Viking ranges with hot surface (glow bar) ignition systems only. Not all Viking ranges use this style of igniter — verify your model number before ordering. Always verify compatibility before purchasing. Key Features Flat glow bar hot surface igniter — draws current through the oven gas safety valve to open it, then heats to ignition temperature to light the oven burner Silicon carbide construction — superior heat resistance, reaches 1,800°F–3,100°F operating temperature in approximately 60 seconds Draws 3.2–3.6 amps at 120V AC — correct amperage range to open the Viking oven gas safety valve Ceramic body: 2.25 inches; overall length: 4.5 inches; wire leads: approximately 12.5 inches with female insulated terminals Plug-in installation with female terminals; ceramic wire nuts included for spliced installation if needed Sold individually — one igniter per order Replaces 065650-000, PB040001, 792263, AP5315579, AP7180264, SGR4001, and more Fragile silicon carbide element — handle only by the bracket and wires; never touch the ceramic body with bare hands Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number PB04001 Also Known As PB040001 Part Type Gas Oven Bake Igniter (Flat Glow Bar Hot Surface Igniter) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Viking Gas Ranges with Hot Surface Ignition Igniter Style Flat glow bar, silicon carbide Amperage Draw 3.2 – 3.6 Amps Voltage 120V AC Operating Temperature 1,800°F – 3,100°F (approximately 60-second heat-up) Ceramic Body Length 2.25 inches Overall Length 4.5 inches Lead Length Approximately 12.5 inches (female insulated terminals) Includes Igniter and ceramic wire nuts Sold As Single igniter Compatible Brands Viking Installation Notes ⚠️ Gas Appliance Safety Warning This part is used in gas ranges. Always shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve and unplug the range from the electrical outlet before beginning any repair. If you smell gas at any point during or after installation, leave the area immediately and contact your gas utility provider. If you are not confident working on gas appliances, have this part installed by a qualified appliance technician. ⚠️ Handle With Extreme Care — Fragile Silicon Carbide Element The silicon carbide igniter element is extremely fragile and will crack or break with minimal force. Never touch the ceramic bar with bare hands — oils from skin will damage the element and cause premature failure. Handle only by the bracket, wires, and ceramic wire nut connectors. To install: unplug the range and shut off gas. Remove the oven racks and oven bottom panel. Disconnect the old igniter's wire connector (or cut wires if splicing). Unscrew the mounting bracket from the burner assembly and remove the old igniter. Position the new PB04001 igniter on the burner bracket and secure with the mounting screws. If the female terminals plug directly into the existing wiring, connect them. If wires need to be spliced, use the included ceramic wire nuts — never use standard plastic wire nuts near the oven burner. Reinstall the oven bottom panel and racks. Restore gas and power, then run a test cycle to confirm the igniter heats and the burner lights within 60 seconds. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How does a hot surface igniter work on a Viking gas oven? The hot surface igniter is wired in series with the oven's gas safety valve. When the oven is turned on, electrical current flows through the igniter, heating the silicon carbide element until it reaches ignition temperature — typically glowing bright orange. As the element heats, its electrical resistance changes and the current draw increases to 3.2–3.6 amps. At that amperage level, the gas safety valve opens and gas flows to the burner, where the glowing igniter ignites it. If the igniter weakens and can no longer draw enough current to open the safety valve, the oven will glow but the burner will never fire — this is the most common cause of a Viking oven not heating. What is the difference between PB04001 and PB040001? PB04001 and PB040001 are the same oven igniter — PB04001 is the shortened version of the PB040001 part number. Both refer to the same flat silicon carbide glow bar igniter used on compatible Viking gas ranges. This listing covers both designations and the part functions identically regardless of which number is referenced. How do I know if my oven igniter has failed? The most common sign is an oven that glows orange but the burner never lights. A healthy igniter glows bright orange and ignites the burner within about 60 seconds. If it glows dimly, stays on indefinitely without the burner lighting, or does not glow at all when the oven is turned on, the igniter has failed. You can also test with a multimeter — with the oven cold and unplugged, a working igniter shows resistance of approximately 40–90 ohms; an open circuit confirms failure. Visually inspect the element for cracks, dark spots, or a broken ceramic bar. Why must I use ceramic wire nuts instead of standard plastic ones? Standard plastic wire nuts are not rated for the temperatures inside an oven cavity — they will melt or degrade near the burner, exposing bare wires and creating a safety hazard. Ceramic wire nuts (included with this igniter) are heat-rated for oven burner temperatures and provide a safe, permanent connection when splicing is required. Always use only ceramic wire nuts for any wiring connections near the oven burner. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Viking OEM part, but is manufactured from silicon carbide and high-temperature materials to match the electrical specifications and dimensions of the original 065650-000 oven bake igniter. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with Samsung & Kenmore Washers Product Description Restore proper water flow and dependable washer operation with the DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved inlet valve precisely controls water entering the washer during fill cycles. A defective valve may cause no-fill issues, slow filling, water leaks, or error codes. Installing this Genuine OEM water valve ensures exact fit, correct water pressure, and long-lasting performance as designed by the manufacturer. Replaces Part Numbers DC62-00311F, PD00043649, EAP11719654, AP5966624, 3992244, PS11719654. Compatibility This Genuine OEM washer water inlet valve fits select Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-manufactured) washers. Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Samsung WF203ANS, WF206ANS, WF209ANSKenmore 592.49003, 592.49005 Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure. ✅ Key Features 🧩 Genuine OEM Replacement – Factory-certified for exact fit and performance 💧 Accurate Water Control – Ensures proper fill levels during wash cycles 🔧 Durable Solenoid Construction – Designed for reliable long-term use 🛠️ Direct-Fit Installation – No modifications required 🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves no-fill, slow fill, leaking, or error codes 📐 Product Specification Part Number: DC62-00311F Component Type: Washer Water Inlet Valve Voltage: 120V AC Water Connections: Hot & Cold Material: OEM-grade reinforced plastic with metal solenoids Mounting: Rear cabinet direct-fit Compliance: Genuine OEM certified 🛠️ Installation Notes Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan ⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before servicing. Steps: Disconnect power and turn off water supply. Remove the rear access panel. Disconnect inlet hoses and wiring harness from the old valve. Remove mounting screws and take out the old valve. Install the new DC62-00311F water valve and secure it. Reconnect hoses and wiring, restore water and power, and test for leaks. ⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes 📦 Shop With Confidence 🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders ⚙️ Genuine OEM Replacement Part 🔄 30-Day Return Policy Restore proper washer filling with confidence — Add to Cart Now for a factory-quality repair!

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W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve The W11168743 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool top-load washers. This is a single-solenoid valve dedicated specifically to hot water, with a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. When the wash cycle calls for hot water, the valve's solenoid opens to admit it from your home's hot water supply line; once the correct fill level is reached, it closes again. Rated 120V, 60Hz. Common causes of failure include wear and tear over time, clogging from mineral deposits or sediment in the water supply, and electrical faults that prevent the valve from opening or closing properly. A failing hot water valve typically shows up as the washer not filling properly or not filling at all, slow or irregular water flow even when the inlet screens are clear of obstruction, no hot water reaching the tub, or water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. It directly replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068. Quick Answer The W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool top-load washers (and select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore washers) that won't fill, fill slowly, have no hot water reaching the tub, or leak water inside the drum when not running. 1-solenoid, 1-inlet, 1-outlet hot water valve. 120V, 60Hz. Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, 33390068. This is the hot valve — the matching cold valve for the same platform is a separate part, W11168740. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling properly, or not filling at all Water flow slow or irregular even when inlet screens are clear No hot water reaching the tub during the wash cycle Water dripping or leaking inside the tub when the washer isn't running Washer not washing properly due to insufficient hot water Washer that won't start because it's stuck waiting for water Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11168743, 1873019, 33390068, 4585634, W10240948, W10921515, WPW10240948, AP6017592, AP6327638, EAP11750891, EAP12348074, PS11750891, AWP43142, OEM18982923, PD00040928, PS12348074. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, and Ikea washers built on the Whirlpool platform. Note — hot valve, not cold: This is the hot water valve. The matching cold water valve for the same Whirlpool top-load platform is a separate part, W11168740 (blue body, 2-solenoid). The two are not interchangeable, so replace the correct one for the symptom you're seeing — or both if you're unsure which is causing the issue. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration Dedicated hot water valve — standard hose fitting inlet, single water outlet Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "no hot water," and "leaking inside the tub" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 120V, 60Hz Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore top-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number W11168743 Part Type Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Top-Load Washers Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Solenoids 1 Inlets 1 (standard hose fitting) Outlets 1 Companion Part W11168740 (cold water valve, 2-solenoid, sold separately) Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the hot water supply valve before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically from the rear of the washer: remove the screws securing the top or rear panel to reach the valve. Have a towel handy for residual water when you disconnect the supply hose. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the hot water supply hose, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place, then pull it free. Install the new W11168743 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. While you're in there, it's also worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a loose or damaged hose at that connection can produce similar fill or leak symptoms. Restore the water supply and check for leaks before restoring power. Run a test cycle to confirm the washer fills normally with hot water. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if it's the hot valve or the cold valve that's failed? Pay attention to which water temperature is affected. If the washer isn't getting hot water but cold-water fills work fine, this hot valve (W11168743) is the likely cause. If the opposite is true, the cold valve (W11168740) is more likely the issue. If both hot and cold fills are affected, or you're not sure, it's worth checking both valves before ordering. I have water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. Is this the valve? Yes, likely one of the two inlet valves. A worn internal seal can let water seep through even when the valve should be fully closed, causing exactly this symptom. Since there are two valves (hot and cold) on this platform, you may need to inspect both to determine which one is leaking, or replace both if you're unable to isolate it. The valve and hoses look fine but water flow is still irregular. What else should I check? If the inlet screens are clear of obstruction and water flow is still weak or inconsistent, it's worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a kink, clog, or loose connection there can produce similar symptoms to a failing valve. Household water pressure and any inline filter screens are also worth ruling out. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and hose connection configuration of the hot water inlet valve originally installed in your washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve The W11434044 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher water inlet valve assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher and connects to the household cold water supply line. When the control board calls for water during the fill cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely when the correct water level is reached. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't get water into the tub — meaning it can't wash, rinse, or complete a cycle. Rated 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximate dimensions: 2.9" H x 2.3" W with a 0.9" threaded orifice for the water supply connection. The package includes the water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and two hose clamps — everything needed for the connection between the valve and the dishwasher's water divider. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11434044 directly replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908. Important: the water inlet connection uses plastic threads, which are easily damaged by over-tightening or cross-threading — hand-tighten the water line carefully during installation. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, aren't washing properly, drain immediately after filling, or leak at the valve. 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximately 2.9"H x 2.3"W. Genuine OEM. Includes inlet valve, water outlet pipe, and 2 hose clamps. Replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, PS16217908. Compatible with WDT750SAKZ, KDTM404KPS, MDB4949SKZ, WDTA50SAKZ, KDTE204KPS, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024, WDT740SAL, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK series and related models. Plastic-thread inlet connection — hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher not filling with water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded Dishwasher filling too slowly — valve partially clogged with sediment or weak solenoid Dishes not being washed properly due to insufficient water fill Dishwasher fills but doesn't reach normal water level Water leaking from the valve body or its connections Dishwasher continuously running water even when the cycle should be complete — valve stuck open Dishwasher won't advance past the fill phase due to insufficient water detection Excessive cycle times as the dishwasher tries to fill from a partially clogged valve Multimeter test on the valve solenoid shows no continuity Replaces Part Numbers This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11434044, W11025970, W11025972, W11187724, AP6987233, AWP44732, EAP16217908, PD00064823, PS16217908. W11434044 is the current OEM production part superseding W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands: Whirlpool dishwashers — WDPA70SAMZ0, WDPA70SAMZ2, WDPA70SAMZ3, WDPS7024RV0, WDPS7024RZ0 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT740SALB2, WDT740SALB3, WDT740SALW2, WDT740SALW3, WDT740SALZ3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT750SAKB0/B2/B3, WDT750SAKV0/V2/V3, WDT750SAKW0/W2/W3, WDT750SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT751SAPZ0, WDT751SAPZ1 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT970SAKV2, WDT970SAKV3, WDT970SAKZ2, WDT970SAKZ3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDTA50SAKB0/B2/B3, WDTA50SAKT0/T2/T3, WDTA50SAKV0/V2/V3, WDTA50SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series KitchenAid dishwashers — KDTM404KPS, KDTE204KPS and related models Maytag dishwashers — MDB4949SKZ and related models JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric — select Whirlpool-built dishwashers Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-platform dishwashers Dimensions: approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W · 0.9" threaded orifice diameter Includes water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and 2 hose clamps for a complete connection set Current OEM production part — supersedes W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970 Also replaces AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908 Compatible with Whirlpool WDT740SAL, WDT750SAK, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK, WDTA50SAK, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024 series and select KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W11434044 Supersedes W11187724, W11025972, W11025970 Part Type Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 120V AC Frequency 50/60 Hz Wattage 6/5W Dimensions Approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W Threaded Orifice Diameter 0.9" Inlet Thread Material Plastic (hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping) Body Material ABS Plastic / Stainless Steel Includes 1x Inlet Valve, 1x Water Outlet Pipe, 2x Hose Clamps Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN PLASTIC THREADS Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply line and will spill when disconnected. Critical: the W11434044's water supply connection uses plastic threads. Multiple installers have reported stripping the plastic threads by over-tightening or cross-threading the water line during installation — always hand-tighten the fitting carefully and align the threads squarely before tightening. If your dishwasher is installed under a counter, working through the lower access panel is possible but tight — many installers find it easier to pull the dishwasher partially out from the cabinet, or lay it on its side, to reach the inlet connection cleanly (this also lets you use a 90-degree hose fitting without cross-threading). Remove the lower access panel (typically 2 screws) at the front bottom of the dishwasher. Locate the water inlet valve. Photograph the wire harness and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve. Squeeze the hose clamps with pliers and slide them back to release the outlet hose from the valve, then disconnect the wire harness plug. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place. Install the new W11434044 valve, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the outlet hose and hose clamps. Push the electrical connector's fixing plate firmly into place before connecting the wire harness plug — this prevents the connector from falling out during operation. Reconnect the household water supply — hand-tighten the fitting carefully to avoid stripping the plastic threads. Restore water and power. Run a test cycle and check for leaks at all connections. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench (used lightly on plastic threads only!), channel-lock pliers, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions My dishwasher isn't filling with water — is the inlet valve the problem? Very likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed dishwasher water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the household water supply to the dishwasher is turned on at the shutoff valve; 2) check the household water pressure at a nearby fixture (a nearby faucet) to make sure your home has normal pressure; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean but the dishwasher still won't fill, the W11434044 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue. You can also test the solenoid with a multimeter — no continuity means the solenoid has burned out. What is the difference between W11434044 and W11025970/W11025972/W11187724? These are the same water inlet valve across production revisions. W11025970 was the original OEM part number, W11025972 and W11187724 were mid-generation revisions, and W11434044 is the current OEM production version. All are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram or the part on your appliance shows any of these numbers, the W11434044 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers all of them. Why is over-tightening the water line connection such a common issue? The water supply inlet on the W11434044 has plastic threads to reduce cost and simplify manufacturing — but plastic threads are much less forgiving than brass or metal fittings. Cross-threading (starting the fitting at an angle instead of straight-in) or applying too much torque with a wrench will strip the plastic threads or split the fitting. Always align the water line fitting carefully by hand first, get several turns of engagement before applying any tool, and use only enough torque to snug the connection (typically hand-tight plus a very light quarter-turn with a wrench). If the threads are already stripped, the valve or a replacement plastic fitting will need to be ordered — the connection can't be repaired. Should I lay the dishwasher on its side for this repair? If you're finding it difficult to reach the water inlet connection cleanly through the lower access panel — which is a common complaint from installers — laying the dishwasher on its side (or pulling it partially out from the cabinet) makes the connection much easier to work with. This is especially helpful if your water supply line uses a 90-degree hose fitting that needs a straight approach for correct thread engagement. Before laying the dishwasher down, disconnect all connections and drain any residual water from the tub to avoid spills. Note that if the door has been damaged or bent, laying the unit on its side can worsen the damage — inspect first. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10238100 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Water Valve Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10238100, W10238100, W10498992, AP6017532, PS11750831. Description: This Genuine OEM Part is a single water inlet valve designed for use in select Whirlpool refrigerator models. Its key function is to supply water to the refrigerator's ice maker and water dispenser. When energized, this valve releases water from the supply line into the ice mold. If the water valve develops a crack, it will need replacement. The valve accommodates two different sizes of tubing: the smaller inlet measures 1/4", and the larger inlet measures 5/16".

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WH13X26534 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with GE and Hotpoint Washers Product Description Maintain proper water flow with the WH13X26534 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved Water Inlet Valve Assembly is a Genuine OEM part for specific GE washing machine models. It is responsible for regulating the flow of water into the washing machine during designated cycles. The water inlet valve opens and closes to allow water to enter the tub at the correct times and pressures. It works in coordination with other components to fill and drain the tub as needed. Replaces Part Numbers WH13X26534, WH13X25296, WH13X25297, PD00051646, AP6891106, PS12726768. Compatibility This water valve is compatible with select GE and Hotpoint washers. Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): GE GTW465ASN1WW, GTW720BSN0WS, and Hotpoint HTW240ASK6WS. Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. ✅ Key Features 🔄 OEM Replacement – Genuine GE water valve for select washers 💧 Reliable Water Control – Accurately manages hot and cold water fill 💰 Cost-Effective Genuine Part – Factory-tested for long-lasting performance 🛠️ DIY Friendly – Simple installation with basic tools 🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves leaks, slow fill, or washer not filling at all 📐 Product Specification Part Number: WH13X26534 Component Type: Washer Water Valve Assembly Material: Reinforced plastic housing with metal solenoids Mounting: Direct-fit replacement Operating Conditions: Residential washer environments Compliance: Genuine OEM certified 🛠️ Installation Notes Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench, pliers ⚠️ Safety First: Always unplug washer and shut off water supply before starting repairs. Steps: Disconnect power and water supply from the washer. Remove the top or rear access panel to locate the water valve. Detach water hoses and wiring harness from the old valve. Unscrew and remove the defective valve. Install the new WH13X26534 valve and reconnect hoses and wiring. Reassemble the washer panel, restore power, and run a test cycle. ⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes 📦 Shop With Confidence 🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders 🛠️ Trusted Appliance Parts Supplier 🔄 30-Day Return Policy Solve washer filling problems quickly — Add to Cart Now for a reliable, factory-approved fix!

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