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WPW10435242 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve Description: The Water inlet valve assembly is an OEM part for specific Whirlpool washing machine models. This valve assembly controls the flow of water entering the washing machine. It regulates water levels during different wash cycles like filling, rinsing, and draining. Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10435242, W10435242, W10435236, AP6021375, PS11754698.   California Residents only WARNING: California’s Proposition 65

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W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) The W11688995 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers. Whirlpool's newer front-load platforms use two separate single-function valves instead of one combined hot/cold valve body — this cold-side valve handles only the cold water supply, while a matching hot-side valve (sold separately as W11688994) handles the hot side. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes this valve's solenoid coils to open the water path; when the correct level is reached, the valve closes again. If this valve fails to open, the washer won't take on cold water; if it fails to seal fully closed, water can trickle into the drum even when the washer isn't running. Because this is a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here shows up in a very specific way: cold-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while hot-only fills (governed by the separate W11688994 valve) continue working normally. Whirlpool's own service guidance links this valve to F8 E1 and LO FL fill-related error codes. Common failure modes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn internal diaphragm. It directly replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730. As a genuine OEM part, the W11688995 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or throws an F8 E1 or LO FL error code. 120V, 50/60Hz, two-coil cold-only valve, 1/2" NPT threaded connections. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, EAP17216730. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11688994. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum on the cold side when the washer is off F8 E1 or LO FL error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Cold-wash or cold-rinse cycles specifically affected while warm/hot cycles run fine Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730. W11486361 and W11316256 were earlier Whirlpool numbers for this same valve, with W11036930 preceding those. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW and MFW series (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana front-load washers (select models) Inglis front-load washers — IFW series (select models) Select Kenmore front-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Verified model numbers include: 8TWFC6810LW0 (laundry center), IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4, MFW7020RF0, MFW7020RU0, MFW7020RW0, MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HC1, MHW5630HC2, MHW5630HC3, MHW5630HW0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630HW2, MHW5630MBK0, MHW6630HC0 through MHW6630HC3, MHW6630HW0 through MHW6630HW3, MHW6630MBK0, MHW8630HC0 through MHW8630HC3, MHW8630HW0 through MHW8630HW3, WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW5620HW0 through WFW5620HW3, WFW6620HC0 through WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1, WFW8620HC0 through WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0 through WFW8620HW4, WFW862CHC0, and WFW862CHC1. Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11688994. The two are not interchangeable — each is a dedicated single-function valve, and installing this cold valve in place of the hot valve (or vice versa) will not correctly control water temperature. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Dedicated cold-only water inlet valve — two internal coils control flow to the cold supply Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and LO FL error codes 1/2" NPT threaded connections for standard supply line hookups Direct drop-in replacement for W11036930, W11316256, and W11486361 Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, and select Kenmore front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number W11688995 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Voltage 120V Frequency 50/60 Hz Coils 2 (dedicated cold water function) Connection 1/2 in. NPT threaded Companion Part W11688994 (hot water valve, sold separately) Supersedes W11036930, W11316256, W11486361 Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply line from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit side by side and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old cold valve, remove its mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the hot valve (W11688994) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11688995 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the cold water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle set to a cold wash and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Because your washer uses two separate single-function valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve (W11688994) keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing, this cold valve is the correct part to replace. Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time? Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11688995 valve alone is sufficient. If both hot and cold fills are having problems, or if the valves are original and quite old, some people choose to replace both at once since they're already accessing the same area — but it's not required. My washer shows an F8 E1 or LO FL error. Does that mean this valve is bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. These codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm the cold supply valve at the wall is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris, and make sure the cold fill hose isn't kinked. If those check out and cold water still won't fill properly, this valve is the likely cause. Can I use this valve on the hot water side instead? No. This is a dedicated cold-water valve, and the hot-water side uses a separate part number, W11688994. The two are built and calibrated for their specific supply line and are not interchangeable — installing the cold valve on the hot side (or vice versa) will not properly control water temperature during the cycle. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same two-coil solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the cold water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The 285805 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold supply hoses connect, and it controls every drop of water entering the tub — energizing to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together when the control calls for a fill, and closing again once the correct level is reached. It's one of the longest-running, most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, the same platform that our 8318084 lid switch listing also serves. This is a complete kit: it ships with the mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions, and it accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 threaded NHT ports. Depending on production run, the valve body may arrive blue or green — both are correct and function identically. Over years of use, mineral and sediment buildup (especially calcium deposits from hard water) can restrict or block the valve, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber seals can simply wear out with age. A blocked or failing valve commonly shows up as slow filling, no fill on one side, continuous filling that won't stop, or leaking after the cycle ends. It directly replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517. Quick Answer The 285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers that won't fill, fill slowly, won't stop filling, leak after the cycle, or have no hot or no cold water. Complete kit with mounting bracket, screws, and instructions. Dual-port valve for a 1/2" ID hose, two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections, approximately 5.7" tall. Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, W10110517. The included bracket may be shaped differently than your original integrated bracket — you may need to test a couple of orientations to get the hose connections positioned correctly. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer won't stop filling — overfilling past the normal level Water leaking or dripping from the washer after the cycle has ended No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub Washer not washing properly due to insufficient or incorrect-temperature water Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Hot water inlet blocked by calcium or mineral deposits after years of hard-water use Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 285805, 285805VP, AP3094541, 21026, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, W10110517, AH334646, EA334646, AWP39626, PD00002373, PS334646. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washers and washer/dryer laundry centers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers and laundry centers Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana top-load washers (select models) Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, and Estate top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric top-load washers (select models) Select Kenmore and Ikea top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's direct-drive top-load platform, including stackable washer/dryer laundry centers — the same general platform used by our 8318084 lid switch listing. It is not intended for front-load washers, which use a different valve design. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Complete kit — includes mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions Dual-port design accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "won't stop filling," and "leaking after cycle" symptoms caused by valve failure One of the most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive top-load platform Approximately 5.7" tall, metal and plastic construction Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, and related direct-drive top-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number 285805 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Kit Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washers / Laundry Centers Kit Contents Water inlet valve, mounting bracket, screws, instructions Ports 2 (hot and cold) Hose Compatibility 1/2" ID Thread Specification Two 3/4"-11 x 1/2" NHT hose threads Height Approx. 5.7 in. Material Metal and plastic Color Blue or green (both correct — varies by production run) Quantity 1 valve kit Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Bracket Orientation May Take Trial And Error Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the washer away from the wall for access, then disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve — have a towel ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the screws securing the rear or top cabinet panel (on some stackable laundry centers, the entire top enclosure lifts off as one piece, which also disconnects the lid switch wiring harness at the rear — note this connector's location before pulling the panel free). Photograph the wiring and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Unplug the wiring harness from the old valve, remove its mounting screws, and pull it free along with its bracket. Some original valves used an integrated bracket, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to fit different configurations — you may need to test a couple of orientations before the hose connections line up correctly with your existing hoses. Mount the new 285805 to the bracket, secure it in the cabinet in the same general position as the old valve, and reconnect the wiring harness. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the cabinet panel, reconnecting the lid switch harness if applicable, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My valve is blue but the old one was green (or vice versa). Did I get the wrong part? No — this is normal. The 285805 has shipped with either a blue or a green valve body depending on the production run, and both are the correct, fully functional part. The color has no effect on fit or performance. The new valve's bracket doesn't match my old one. What do I do? This is a known and expected difference. Many original valves used a bracket integrated directly into the valve body, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to accommodate different washer configurations. It may take a little trial and error to find the orientation that positions the valve correctly for your existing hose connections — this is a bracket design difference, not a sign that the wrong part was sent. Only hot water won't fill, but cold works fine. Is that this valve? Yes, likely — and often it's specifically mineral or calcium buildup rather than outright failure. Hot water tends to accelerate scale buildup inside the valve port compared to cold, so after many years of hard water use, the hot side can become restricted or fully blocked while the cold side continues working normally. Replacing the valve resolves this since the internal ports aren't designed to be cleaned out once heavily scaled. My washer won't stop filling. Is that dangerous, and is it this valve? It can lead to overflow and water damage if left unaddressed, so it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if this happens rather than waiting. A valve that won't stop filling usually means a worn internal seal or diaphragm is no longer sealing shut when the solenoid de-energizes, letting water continue flowing. This valve is the correct replacement for that symptom. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same dual-port solenoid design, thread specifications, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your direct-drive top-load washer or laundry center. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WD26X25103 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Variable Wash Pump Kit The WD26X25103 is a genuine GE OEM variable wash pump kit for premium GE, Café, GE Profile, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier dishwashers. The wash pump is the heart of the cleaning system — it draws filtered water from the sump and drives it under pressure through the lower spray arm, the middle spray arm, and the upper wash manifold. What makes this a variable pump is its variable-speed motor: instead of running at one fixed speed, the control board modulates pump speed throughout the cycle, ramping pressure up for heavy soil and down for delicate loads, and shifting flow between spray zones. That is why a failing variable pump often produces uneven results — the bottom rack comes out clean while the top rack is barely wet. This is a complete kit, supplied with the circulation pump assembly and its integrated wiring harness, so you are not transferring connectors from the old unit. Typical failure modes include worn motor bearings that produce a loud humming or grinding during the wash portion of the cycle, a seized or debris-jammed impeller, a shaft seal that begins weeping water into the base pan and trips the flood switch, and electrical failure of the variable-speed motor windings. It directly replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, and EAP12730515. This is a moderate DIY repair — most people budget 1–2 hours. Quick Answer The WD26X25103 Genuine OEM GE Variable Wash Pump Kit fixes GE, Café, GE Profile, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier dishwashers with dishes that come out dirty or gritty, a top rack that isn't getting wet, weak or no spray arm rotation, loud humming or grinding during the wash cycle, or water pooling in the base pan from a leaking pump seal. Variable-speed motor; kit includes pump assembly plus integrated wiring harness. Replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, EAP12730515. Fits premium CDT865/CDT866, PDT845/PDT846/PDT855, and ZDT915/ZDT975 platforms — not the same pump as WD26X23258. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishes not getting clean — food soil, grit, or film left behind after a full cycle Top rack not getting wet or not getting cleaned while the bottom rack washes normally Spray arms turning slowly or not turning at all — insufficient water pressure Loud humming, whining, or grinding noise during the wash portion of the cycle Dishwasher runs a full cycle quietly with no audible water circulation Water pooling in the base pan under the dishwasher from a leaking pump shaft seal Flood switch or leak sensor tripping and shutting the dishwasher down mid-cycle Cleaning performance that has gradually declined over months as bearings wear Pump motor humming but the impeller not turning — seized shaft or jammed impeller Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dishwasher variable wash pump kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WD26X25103, WD26X22789, AGE25305, AP6973120, PD00054224, PS12730515, EAP12730515. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This variable wash pump kit is compatible with select premium built-in dishwashers from the following brands: GE and GE Profile dishwashers (PDT845, PDT846, and PDT855 series) Café dishwashers (CDT865 and CDT866 series) Monogram dishwashers (ZDT915 and ZDT975 series) Hotpoint dishwashers (select GE-built models) Haier dishwashers (select GE-platform models) Verified model numbers include: CDT865SSJ0SS, CDT865SSJ2SS, CDT865SMJ0DS, CDT865SMJ2DS, CDT866P2M4S1, CDT866P3M4D1, CDT866P4M4W2, PDT845SSJ0SS, PDT845SSJ2SS, PDT845SMJ0ES, PDT845SMJ2ES, PDT845SBL2TS, PDT845SBL3TS, PDT845SFL3DS, PDT846SSJ0SS, PDT846SSJ2SS, PDT846SMJ0ES, PDT846SMJ2ES, PDT855SSJ0SS, PDT855SSJ2SS, PDT855SMJ0ES, PDT855SMJ2ES, PDT855SIJ0II, PDT855SIJ2II, PDT855SBL2TS, PDT855SBL3TS, PDT855SFL3DS, ZDT915SSJ0SS, ZDT915SSJ2SS, ZDT915SIJ0II, ZDT915SIJ2II, ZDT915SPJ0SS, ZDT915SPJ2SS, ZDT975SSJ0SS, ZDT975SSJ2SS, ZDT975SIJ0II, ZDT975SIJ2II, ZDT975SPJ0SS, and ZDT975SPJ2SS. Note: GE uses several different circulation pumps across its dishwasher lineup, and they are NOT interchangeable. The WD26X25103 is the variable-speed pump used on premium CDT/PDT/ZDT platforms. It is not the same part as the WD26X23258 circulation pump (GDT695/PDT825 platforms) or the WD26X22518 pump (PDF820/GDT535/ADT521 platforms). Fitting the wrong pump can result in a physical mismatch at the sump or a harness that will not mate with your control board. Always verify your full model number — including the suffix — before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified flow rate, impeller geometry, and motor control profile Variable-speed motor allows the control board to modulate wash pressure by cycle and soil level rather than running at one fixed speed Complete kit — includes the circulation pump assembly and integrated wiring harness, so no connectors need to be transferred from the old pump Drives water through the lower spray arm, middle spray arm, and upper wash manifold Resolves "dishes not clean," "top rack not getting wet," "spray arms not turning," "loud humming or grinding," and "water in the base pan" symptoms caused by pump failure Sealed shaft design protects the motor from sump water intrusion Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded WD26X22789 — no modifications required Serves GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier premium dishwasher platforms Replaces WD26X22789, AP6973120, PS12730515, and EAP12730515 Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number WD26X25103 Part Type Dishwasher Variable Wash Pump Kit (Circulation Pump) Condition Genuine OEM Brand GE Appliances Motor Type Variable speed Voltage 120V / 60 Hz Function Circulates water under pressure to the spray arms and upper wash manifold Kit Contents Wash pump assembly + integrated wiring harness Location Underneath the tub, mounted to the sump housing Connections 2 hose clamps + 2 electrical connections Supersedes WD26X22789 Repair Difficulty Moderate — 1 to 2 hours Quantity 1 pump kit Compatible Brands GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, Haier Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect Power And Shut Off Water Before Starting Turn off the dishwasher's circuit breaker and close the hot water supply valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves — the tub edges and undercarriage brackets are sharp. Before condemning the pump, run a quick check: remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly, clear any glass chips, seeds, or labels from the sump, and confirm the spray arm ports are not blocked. A clogged filter screen produces the same "dishes not clean" complaint as a failing pump and costs nothing to rule out. To replace the pump, first remove the two screws securing the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop (or to the adjacent cabinets), disconnect the water line and drain hose, and slide the unit out. Most technicians then lay the dishwasher on its front or on its back to reach the pump — put a towel down to protect the door and finish. Photograph the hose routing and wiring before disconnecting anything. Release the two hose clamps and separate the two electrical connections, then unlock the pump from the sump housing — it typically twists to release from a bayonet-style mount — and lift it out. Inspect the sump gasket and seat while the pump is off; replace the gasket if it is hardened, flattened, or nicked. Install the new WD26X25103 in the same orientation, twist to lock, reattach both hoses with their clamps, and reconnect the harness. Reinstall the dishwasher, restore water and power, then run a full cycle and check underneath for leaks before pushing the unit all the way back and reattaching the mounting screws. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, pliers or hose clamp pliers, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My top rack isn't getting clean but the bottom rack is fine. Is that the wash pump? It's the signature symptom of a weakening wash pump, yes — but check two cheaper things first. The upper wash manifold and the middle spray arm are fed last and at the lowest pressure, so they are the first zones to suffer when pump output drops. However, a clogged filter screen or a spray arm with blocked ports will starve the upper rack the same way. Pull the lower spray arm and filter, rinse them under hot water, poke a toothpick through any blocked spray ports, and run a cycle. If the top rack is still dry or dirty after that, the variable pump is losing pressure and should be replaced. What does "variable" mean on this pump, and does it matter? It matters a great deal. A variable-speed pump lets the control board change pump speed during the cycle — higher pressure for heavy soil, lower for delicate loads, and different speeds when directing flow to different spray zones. A fixed-speed pump cannot do that. This is why you cannot substitute a standard circulation pump from another GE platform even if it physically resembles this one: the control board expects a variable-speed motor and will not drive a fixed-speed unit correctly. The dishwasher is making a loud grinding noise. Do I need the whole pump? Not always — check for foreign objects first. Glass chips, fruit pits, bones, and hard plastic bits routinely get past the filter and rattle inside the pump housing or wedge against the impeller. Remove the filter assembly and inspect the sump thoroughly with a flashlight. If the sump is clean and the noise is a steady hum or grind that rises with the wash cycle, the pump's motor bearings are worn and the complete kit is the correct repair. Bearing noise does not improve on its own and usually precedes a shaft seal leak. I found water in the pan underneath the dishwasher. Could the pump cause that? Yes. When the pump's shaft seal wears out, it weeps water down onto the base pan during every wash cycle. GE dishwashers have a flood switch in that pan, so the machine will eventually detect the water and shut itself down mid-cycle or refuse to start. Before ordering, confirm the water is coming from the pump and not from a loose hose clamp, a cracked sump, or the door gasket — dry the pan completely, run a short cycle, and watch where the first drops appear. Does this kit include everything, or do I need to reuse parts from the old pump? The kit ships with the wash pump assembly and its integrated wiring harness, so you will not need to cut, splice, or transfer the electrical connector from your old pump. You will reuse your existing hoses and clamps. Inspect the sump gasket while the pump is out and replace it if it looks hardened, flattened, or nicked — a tired gasket is a common cause of a "new pump that still leaks." What's the difference between WD26X25103 and WD26X22789? They are the same pump across production revisions. WD26X22789 was the earlier number and WD26X25103 is the current GE part number that supersedes it. If your dishwasher's parts diagram shows WD26X22789, this listing is the correct replacement — order it with confidence. The additional cross-references (AP6973120, PS12730515, EAP12730515) are catalog identifiers used by various parts distributors for the same kit. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original variable-speed motor profile, impeller geometry, flow rate, sump mounting interface, and harness connector of the pump originally installed in your dishwasher, which is important on this platform because the control board is calibrated to drive a variable-speed pump. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11414076 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Circulation Pump Motor Assembly The W11414076 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement circulation pump and motor assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, and Ikea dishwashers. The circulation pump is the heart of the wash system — it pressurizes and delivers water to the spray arms, driving the jets that blast food and residue off your dishes throughout the wash and rinse cycles. When the circulation pump fails, cleaning performance collapses: dishes come out dirty or unrinsed, water pressure at the spray arms drops, and the machine may make loud droning or grinding noises. This is a complete circulation pump and motor assembly. Common causes of failure include worn motor bearings (which produce a continuous drone that gets louder over time), deteriorated impellers, and seal breakdowns. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11414076 is the current production part that supersedes W11122133. It also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, and OEM20940317. Note: this assembly does not include the drain pump — your existing drain pump transfers over to the new assembly during installation. Installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools (the dishwasher must be pulled out and laid on its back to access the pump). Quick Answer The W11414076 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Circulation Pump Motor Assembly fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, and Amana dishwashers where dishes come out dirty or unrinsed, water pressure at the spray arms is weak, water pools in the tub, or the motor makes a loud droning/grinding noise. Complete circulation pump + motor assembly. Genuine OEM. Current part superseding W11122133; also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, OEM20940317. Before ordering: if the motor runs but water is weak, try cleaning the impeller filter screen first — see the FAQ. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishes coming out dirty or unrinsed — circulation pump not delivering water to the spray arms Weak water pressure at the spray arms — impeller worn or motor failing Loud droning noise that gets louder over time — worn motor bearings Grinding or unusual noise during operation Water retention/pooling in the bottom of the tub Leaks from the pump housing — seal breakdown Motor humming but spray arms barely turning Reduced cleaning performance overall Motor not running at all — failed pump motor windings Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This circulation pump motor assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11414076, W11122133, AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, OEM20940321, AWP45352, PD00070783 W11414076 is the current OEM production part superseding W11122133. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This circulation pump motor assembly is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands: Whirlpool dishwashers — select models (verify with your parts diagram) KitchenAid dishwashers — select models Maytag dishwashers — select models Jenn-Air dishwashers — select models Amana dishwashers — select models Magic Chef dishwashers — select models Admiral dishwashers — select models Norge dishwashers — select models Roper dishwashers — select models Kenmore / Sears dishwashers — select Whirlpool-built models Ikea dishwashers — select Whirlpool-built models This assembly may comprise several parts — refer to your specific parts diagram to verify included items. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Circulation pump and motor assembly — pressurizes and delivers water to the spray arms for effective cleaning and rinsing Resolves "dirty dishes," "weak water pressure," "loud droning motor," "grinding noise," and "water pooling" symptoms when caused by pump failure Addresses the common failure modes: worn motor bearings, deteriorated impellers, and seal breakdowns Current OEM production part — directly supersedes W11122133 Also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, and OEM20940317 Motor separates from the pump case with 3 Torx screws — some customers replace only the motor if the pump case is fine Drain pump is not included — your existing drain pump transfers to the new assembly Compatible with Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, and Ikea dishwashers DIY repair — installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W11414076 Supersedes W11122133 Part Type Dishwasher Circulation Pump & Motor Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform) Function Delivers water to the spray arms for washing and rinsing Motor Attachment Separates from pump case with 3 Torx screws Drain Pump Not included — transfer your existing drain pump Location Bottom of dishwasher (access by laying unit on its back) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — Major Access Required Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. This is a more involved repair because the circulation pump is on the bottom of the dishwasher. Throw the circuit breaker, remove the lower access panel, and open the electrical box to completely disconnect the electrical from the dishwasher. Disconnect the water supply line and the drain line. Remove the anchor screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, then pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet. Have a large towel ready — rotate the dishwasher and lay it on its back to access the pump on the bottom. Photograph everything before disconnecting. Disconnect all connections to the main circulation pump: the drain pump, the electrical connections, the leak-detection plate and circuit, and the water lines. Undo all clamps to the circulation pump. Remove the old circulation pump assembly. Transfer your existing drain pump to the new W11414076 assembly — it is not included. (If you're only replacing a noisy motor and the pump case is good, the motor separates from the case with 3 Torx screws and can be swapped on its own.) Install the new assembly, reconnect the drain pump, electrical connections, leak-detection plate, water lines, and all clamps, matching your photos. Stand the dishwasher back up, slide it into the cabinet, reconnect water/drain/electrical, and secure the anchor screws. Run a short test cycle and check for leaks. Note: use your dishwasher's onboard diagnostic function to confirm the pump was the issue — light/error codes vary by model, so check the quick guide that came with your specific dishwasher rather than relying on codes listed online for other models. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, Torx driver (T-set), nut driver, pliers, large towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions The motor runs but water barely reaches the spray arms — do I definitely need a new pump? Maybe not — try this first, because it could save you the entire repair. On many KitchenAid/Whirlpool-platform dishwashers, there's a fine filter screen INSIDE the circulation pump on the impeller. This screen can clog with microplastics and fine food particles over time (sometimes after a surprisingly small number of wash cycles), which chokes off water flow even though the motor is running perfectly. The screen can look clean but still be blocked — a real-world test is to hold water in the mesh cup: if it holds water like a cup instead of draining freely, it's clogged. Cleaning it with a toothbrush restores full flow. To access it you do have to pull the pump (the same disassembly as replacing it, then 2 Torx screws to open the pump), so if you're already this far in, disassemble and inspect the screen BEFORE installing a new pump — you may find the old pump is perfectly good. Running a dishwasher-safe cleaning product through the machine first is also worth a try. My dishwasher motor is loud and getting louder — is that the pump? Yes, that's a classic sign of worn circulation pump motor bearings. The motor bearings wear out over time, and as they degrade they produce a continuous drone that steadily gets louder. Once the bearings have failed, the noise won't go away on its own and the motor should be replaced. On this assembly, the motor separates from the pump case with 3 Torx screws — some customers who only have a bearing/noise problem (and an otherwise good pump case) simply swap the motor and reuse the case. If you order the full assembly, you get both, and you can decide during the repair whether to swap just the motor or the whole thing. Does this come with the drain pump? No — the W11414076 is the circulation pump and motor assembly, and it does not include the drain pump. During installation, you'll transfer your existing drain pump from the old assembly to the new one (it detaches and reattaches). This is normal for this repair. If your drain pump is also failing (separate symptoms: won't drain, water left standing after the cycle), that's a different part you'd order separately. The circulation pump handles washing/spray pressure; the drain pump handles emptying the tub. What's the difference between W11414076 and W11122133? These are the same circulation pump assembly across production revisions. W11122133 was the earlier OEM part number, and W11414076 is the current production version that Whirlpool issued as its direct replacement. Both are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram shows W11122133, the W11414076 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers both. The cross-references AP6980104, PS12745416, and 4958907 are additional catalog identifiers for the same part. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same circulation pump and motor assembly installed in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W10721967 Washer Drive Clutch Kit The XPARTCO W10721967 is an aftermarket replacement drive clutch kit — often called a "splutch" kit — for Whirlpool-built top-load washers. This assembly sits at the base of the transmission and works together with the mode shift actuator to control how power reaches the washer: during agitation, the clutch engages to drive the washplate back and forth, and during spin, it locks up to spin the inner wash basket at full speed. The name "splutch" comes from what it actually is — part spring, part clutch — and that spring-loaded design is what lets the same assembly smoothly transition between the gentle agitate motion and the much more forceful spin cycle. This is a complete 6-piece kit: spring, clutch housing, cam ring, basket drive gear, drive pulley, and mounting nut, so you're replacing the entire wear-prone assembly at once rather than chasing individual worn components. Over time the clutch's friction surfaces glaze over and wear down, the cam ring's engagement points round off, and the spring loses tension — all of which produce the same telltale complaint: a loud grinding, clicking, or clunking noise during agitation or spin, sometimes alongside a washer that spins weakly, agitates but won't spin, or runs hot and starts to smell from the friction of a slipping clutch. It directly replaces AP5951296, W10006352, W10006353, W10006354, W10006356, W10006382, W10239973, W10315818, W10326374, W10536113, W10721967VP, W10818965, W11396423, 3319979, and PS10057144. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10721967 Washer Drive Clutch Kit fixes Whirlpool-built top-load washers with loud grinding, clicking, or clunking noise during agitation or spin, a washer that agitates but won't spin, weak or no spin, an overheating smell, or a drum that doesn't spin the pump properly. Complete 6-piece "splutch" kit — spring, housing, cam ring, basket drive gear, pulley, and nut. Replaces AP5951296, W10006352, W10006353, W10006354, W10006356, W10006382, W10239973, W10315818, W10326374, W10536113, W10721967VP, W10818965, W11396423, 3319979, PS10057144. Often replaced together with the drive belt, since both wear on a similar schedule and share the same teardown. Common Problems This Part Fixes Loud grinding, clicking, or clunking noise during agitation or spin Washer agitates normally but won't spin, or spins very weakly Drive pump doesn't rotate properly, leading to slow or incomplete draining Washer stops agitating partway through a cycle Washer running unusually hot, sometimes with a burning or odd odor Loud noise specifically when transitioning between agitate and spin Clothes coming out excessively wet because the spin cycle isn't reaching full speed Rattling or looseness felt at the drive pulley when the basket is turned by hand Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer drive clutch kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10721967, W10721967VP, AP5951296, W10006352, W10006353, W10006354, W10006356, W10006382, W10239973, W10315818, W10326374, W10536113, W10818965, W11396423, 3319979, PS10057144, EAP10057144, AWP40988, PD00005593. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This drive clutch kit is compatible with select Whirlpool-built top-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers — WTW series Maytag top-load washers — MVWC series (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore top-load washers — KATW and NTW series (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (select models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Roper top-load washers (select models) Inglis top-load washers (select models) Verified model numbers include: 1CWTW4705GW0, 1CWTW4705GW1, 1CWTW4705GW2, 1CWTW4815EW0, 1CWTW4815EW1, 1CWTW4815EW2, 1CWTW4815EW3, 1CWTW4840YW2, 1CWTW4845EW0, 1CWTW4845EW1, 1CWTW4845EW2, 1CWTW4845EW3, 2DWTW4740YQ1, 4GWTW1805LW0, 4GWTW1805LW1, 4GWTW1955LW0, 4GWTW1955LW1, 4GWTW3000FW0, 4GWTW3000FW1, 4GWTW4740YQ3, 4GWTW4800YQ3, 4KATW5215FW0, 4KATW5415FW0, 4KMVWC215FW0, 4KMVWC315FW0, 4KMVWC410JW0, 4KMVWC415FW0, 4KMVWC420JW0, 4KMVWC425FW0, 4KMVWC430JW0, 4KMVWC440JW0, 4KNTW3100JW0, 4KNTW3200JW0, 4KNTW3300JW0, 7MWGT4027HW1, WTW5000DW1, and MVWX655DW1. Note: This kit fits Whirlpool's belt-drive top-load washer platform specifically. It is not intended for direct-drive designs that don't use a separate clutch and belt system. Because this drive clutch kit fits an extremely broad range of model years and revisions, always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Complete 6-piece "splutch" kit — spring, clutch housing, cam ring, basket drive gear, drive pulley, and mounting nut Works together with the mode shift actuator to engage agitation and lock up for full-speed spin Resolves "grinding or clicking noise," "won't spin," "agitates but won't spin," and "overheating smell" symptoms caused by clutch wear Replaces the entire wear-prone assembly at once rather than individual components Direct drop-in replacement for the washer transmission's drive pulley and clutch assembly Replaces AP5951296, W10006352, W10006353, W10006354, W10006356, W10006382, W10239973, W10315818, W10326374, W10536113, W10721967VP, W10818965, W11396423, 3319979, and PS10057144 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, and Inglis top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number W10721967 OEM Part Number W10721967 / AP5951296 Part Type Washer Drive Clutch Kit ("Splutch") Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Whirlpool-Built Belt-Drive Top-Load Washers Kit Contents Spring, clutch housing, cam ring, basket drive gear, drive pulley, mounting nut Function Engages agitation and locks up for full-speed spin Repair Difficulty Moderate — 30-45 minutes Quantity 1 clutch kit (6 pieces) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Inglis Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Before Starting — Tip Onto Its Back Or Front With Care Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and close the water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is from underneath the washer: remove the inner wash basket first (this typically requires a large basket-hub or spanner tool and applying steady upward pressure to break the basket free from the drive hub), then carefully tip the washer onto its back or front, protecting the top and any control panel with a blanket or padding as you lay it down. Photograph the belt and pulley arrangement before disconnecting anything. Remove the drive belt from the motor pulley, then remove the mounting nut and pull the old clutch/pulley assembly off the transmission shaft — a puller tool can help if it's seized. Install the new W10721967 assembly onto the shaft in the same orientation, torque the mounting nut to the manufacturer's specification, and reinstall the drive belt, checking that it seats correctly in the pulley grooves. Carefully stand the washer back upright, reinstall the wash basket, and reconnect it to the drive hub. Restore water and power, then run a full test cycle through agitate and spin, listening for the grinding or clicking noise that prompted the repair. Tools needed: basket-hub removal tool or spanner wrench, socket set, 13mm socket, 5/16" nut driver, pliers, work gloves, and a helper to assist with tipping the washer. Frequently Asked Questions What does "splutch" mean, and why is it sold as one kit instead of individual parts? "Splutch" is shorthand for spring-clutch — the assembly combines a spring-loaded clutch mechanism with the drive pulley and gear that together control agitation and spin. Whirlpool sells this as a single kit because the individual components wear together and interact closely; replacing just the pulley while leaving a worn cam ring or a fatigued spring in place often means the noise or slipping symptom returns quickly. Replacing the complete kit resolves the failure at its actual source. My washer agitates fine but won't spin. Is this the clutch? It's one of the most common causes of exactly that symptom. The clutch has to lock up firmly to transfer full power into spinning the basket; if its friction surfaces have worn down or glazed over, it can still engage well enough for the lighter agitation motion but slip under the higher torque demand of spin. If you hear grinding or clicking specifically as the washer transitions into spin, that reinforces the clutch as the likely cause. Should I replace the drive belt at the same time? It's worth strongly considering. The belt and clutch wear on a similar schedule and share the same teardown — you're already tipping the washer over and removing the belt to access the clutch, so replacing a belt that's showing wear at the same time saves you from repeating the whole disassembly again in the near future. Inspect the belt for glazing, cracking, or fraying while it's off and replace it if it shows any of those signs. The washer smells hot or burnt. Is that dangerous, and does it point to this part? A worn clutch that's slipping generates friction heat, which can produce a warm, slightly burnt smell — this is a real symptom of clutch wear and not something to ignore, since continued operation in that state accelerates wear on the clutch and can stress the drive motor. If you notice this smell along with weak or absent spin, stop using the washer and address the clutch before running further loads. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the spring tension, cam ring engagement geometry, pulley dimensions, and mounting configuration of the original W10721967 clutch kit used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, and Inglis top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W11165546 Washer Water Inlet Valve The XPARTCO W11165546 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve assembly compatible with Maytag Bravos XL, Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore 700-series, and related Whirlpool-platform HE top-load washers. This 4-solenoid assembly controls the flow of hot and cold water from the household supply lines into the washer tub and dispenser compartments. It includes an integrated thermistor on the center outlet that monitors incoming water temperature and communicates it to the control board so the washer can achieve the correct wash temperature. When the valve fails — or when a single solenoid coil burns out — the washer may not fill, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong temperature, overfill, or display error codes F8E1, LF, or LO FL. Rated 120V, 60Hz, with 2 inlet ports and 3 outlet ports, this assembly measures 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H. The valve body may be blue or green in color depending on production run — both are functionally identical. It is compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses. It directly replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, W11165546VP, WV5546, 33090105, 4545980, AP6284346, EAP12348013, PD00037668, and PS12348013. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11165546 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Maytag Bravos XL and Whirlpool Cabrio/WTW HE top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, overfill, or display error codes F8E1, LF, or LO FL. 4-solenoid valve with thermistor. 120V/60Hz. 2 inlet / 3 outlet ports. 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H. Compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses. Replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, W11165546VP, 33090105, 4545980, AP6284346, PS12348013. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling with water — error code F8E1, LF, or LO FL displayed Washer filling very slowly — taking much longer than normal to reach water level Washer filling with only cold water on a warm or hot cycle — hot solenoid failed Washer filling with only hot water on a cold cycle — cold solenoid failed Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open Water temperature incorrect despite correct cycle selection — thermistor failed Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve not closing completely Water leaking from the back of the washer near the valve Replaces Part Numbers This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10839828, 33090105, 4545980, W10599423, W10758828, W11096267, W11165546VP, AP6284346, AWP43457, EAP12348013, PD00037668, PS12348013. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select HE top-load washers from the following brands and series: Maytag top-load washers — Bravos XL series (MVWB765FW0, MVWB765FW1, MVWB765FW2, MVWB765FW3, MVWB765FC1, MVWB765FC2, MVWB766FW0, MVWB766FW1, MVWB835DW1, MVWB835DW2, MVWB835DW3, MVWB835DW4, MVWB855DC2, MVWB855DC3, MVWB865GC0, MVWB865GW0, MVW6230HW2, MVW7230HW0, MVW7232HW0 and related models) Whirlpool top-load washers — Cabrio / WTW series (WTW7500GC0, WTW7500GW0, WTW8500DC2, WTW8500DC4, WTW8500DC5, WTW8500DR4, WTW8500DR5, WTW8500DW4, WTW8500DW5, WTW8700EC1, 7MWTW8500EC2 and related models) Kenmore / Sears top-load washers — 700 series (11028132410, 11028132411, 11028132412, 11028132413, 11028133410, 11028133411, 11029132411, 11029133410 and related models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Note: The valve body color may be blue or green depending on production run — both are functionally identical. This valve is for HE top-load washers only. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features 4-solenoid valve assembly — controls hot water, cold water, and additional dispenser/recirculation ports to fill the tub with the correct temperature water for each cycle Integrated thermistor on center outlet — monitors incoming water temperature and communicates with the control board to achieve the correct wash temperature Resolves F8E1, LF, and LO FL error codes on compatible Maytag and Whirlpool HE top-load washers Rated 120V, 60Hz — correct electrical specifications for compatible models Dimensions: 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H 2 inlet ports, 3 outlet ports — compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses Valve body color (blue or green) varies by production run — functionally identical Replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, and W11165546VP Compatible with Maytag Bravos XL MVWB series, Whirlpool WTW7xxx/WTW8xxx, Kenmore 700 series, and Crosley top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W11165546 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (4-Solenoid with Thermistor) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application HE Top-Load Washers — Bravos XL, Cabrio, WTW series Solenoids 4-coil (hot, cold, and additional ports) Thermistor Integrated on center outlet — monitors water temperature Voltage 120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Dimensions 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H Inlet Ports 2 (hot and cold) Outlet Ports 3 Supply Hose ID 1/2 inch Color White / Blue or Green (production run dependent — functionally identical) Error Codes Resolved F8E1, LF, LO FL Compatible Brands Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Crosley Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve is mounted on the upper rear of the washer. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose routing before disconnecting. Disconnect the two external supply hoses from the valve inlet ports using pliers to loosen any stuck connections. Disconnect the internal outlet hoses by squeezing the retaining clips and pulling free. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from all solenoid coils and the thermistor. Unscrew the mounting hardware and remove the old valve. Install the new W11165546 valve in the same position, reconnect all internal hoses, wire harnesses, and external supply hoses in the same positions as documented. Restore water supply and power, then run a fill cycle to verify normal filling and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, channel-lock pliers for stubborn hose connections. Frequently Asked Questions What do error codes F8E1, LF, and LO FL mean on Maytag and Whirlpool washers? F8E1 (also displayed as LF or LO FL on some models) indicates a long fill fault — the washer was unable to fill to the required water level within the expected time. The most common causes are a failed water inlet valve (solenoid coil burned out or valve seat clogged), low household water pressure, or kinked supply hoses. Before replacing the valve, confirm both supply valves are fully open, the supply hoses are not kinked, and household water pressure is adequate. If all supply conditions are good and the error persists, the water inlet valve is the most likely cause. What is the difference between W11165546 and W11096267? These are the same water inlet valve assembly. W11096267 was an earlier version, and W11165546 is the current updated part number. The W10599423 and W10758828 are also cross-references to earlier versions of this same valve. The W11165546VP is the Whirlpool factory-packaged version. All of these are covered by this aftermarket replacement. Why does this valve have 4 solenoids? Modern HE top-load washers like the Maytag Bravos XL and Whirlpool Cabrio use multiple water paths for different wash functions — hot water inlet, cold water inlet, a bleach dispenser port, and a fabric softener/recirculation port. Each path is controlled by its own independent solenoid coil on the same valve assembly. This allows the control board to independently open any combination of ports needed for a given cycle phase. When any single solenoid coil fails, only the function controlled by that coil is affected — which is why the washer might fill normally with cold water but not hot, or fail to activate only one dispenser. Does the valve color (blue vs green) matter? No — the blue and green valve body colors are simply the result of different production runs at the factory. Both colors are the same part number (W11165546) with identical electrical specifications, port configuration, thermistor, and dimensions. Either color will function correctly in your washer. There is no functional difference between the two. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured with 4 solenoid coils and an integrated thermistor to match the electrical specifications and port configuration of the original W11165546 water inlet valve assembly. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 131763256 Washer Door Lock Assembly Replaces WH10X27534 The XPARTCO 131763256 is an aftermarket replacement door lock and switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, White-Westinghouse, Tappan, Kenmore, Crosley, and Gibson front-load washers. The door lock latch and switch assembly is mounted on the front panel of the washer just inside the door opening — when the door closes, the door strike enters the lock and engages the latching mechanism, locking the door for the duration of the cycle and signaling the control board that it's safe to fill, agitate, and spin. Without a functioning door lock, the washer will not start, will not lock the door, may stop mid-cycle, or may display fault codes like E47. This is a universal-fit aftermarket assembly that spans both the Frigidaire platform (131763xxx-series part numbers) and the GE platform (WH10X-series part numbers) — one physical part covers both manufacturers' cross-referenced door lock positions on compatible front-load washers. Rated 120VAC, 50/60Hz, with 8 terminals. Dimensions: 4-1/2"L x 3-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H. Gray and red matte finish, plastic and metal construction. It directly replaces 131763256, 131763202, 131763255, 131763200, 131763245, 1317632, 1312694, 131269400, 137523400, 1531974, 3626240, 4547033, 4547432, 5301317632, 08003223, K001317632, K1317630-K938, K1317632, LP3202, PA66-GF25, WH10X27534, WH10X10003, WH10X10007, WH10X27194, AH2367737, AH3418879, AP4455026, AP4694680, AP6285657, AP6327625, EA3418879, EAP2367737, PD00038657, PD00070219, PS2367737, PS3418879, PS12343346, and PS12364048. Often replaced together with the matching door strike (131763310, sold separately). Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 131763256 Washer Door Lock Assembly fixes Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Tappan, and Gibson front-load washers that won't start, won't lock the door, won't spin, won't drain, won't fill, stop mid-cycle, or display E47 error codes. Universal-fit assembly — spans both Frigidaire (131763xxx) and GE (WH10X) platforms. 120VAC, 50/60Hz, 8 terminals. 4-1/2"L x 3-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H. Gray/red matte. Replaces 131763202, 131763255, 131763200, 131763245, 1317632, 131269400, 4547033, WH10X27534, WH10X10003, WH10X10007, WH10X27194, AP6285657, AP4455026, PS2367737, and 20+ more cross-references. Often paired with the door strike (131763310, sold separately). Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't start — control board not detecting a locked door Door won't lock at the start of the cycle Washer stops mid-cycle due to a door lock fault E47 error code displayed on the control panel Washer pumps but won't spin — spin cycle blocked by unlocked-door detection Washer won't drain — drain cycle blocked by door-lock signal loss Washer won't fill with water — fill cycle blocked by door-lock signal Door lock assembly visibly broken, cracked, or missing latch teeth Door won't unlock at the end of the cycle — stuck lock mechanism Unusual noise from the door lock area during cycle transitions Replaces Part Numbers This universal-fit door lock assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers across multiple brands: 131763256, 131763255, 131763202, 1312694, 131269400, 131763200, 131763245, 3626240, 4547033, PA66-GF25, LP3202, AFR14205, AP6285657, EAP2367737, PD00038657, PS12364048, WH10X27534, WH10X10003, 08003223, 4547432, 5301317632, K001317632, K1317630-K938, K1317632, WH10X10007, WH10X27194, AP6327625, AGE754798, PS12343346, PD00070219, PD00070219. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This universal-fit door lock assembly is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands: Frigidaire front-load washers — Affinity series, FAFS/FAFW/FFFS/FFFW/FRFW/FTF/FTR/FWFB/FWT/GLTF/GLEH series and many related models Electrolux front-load washers — select models with the matching door lock configuration GE front-load washers — WCCH404, WPXH214, WSSH300, WSXH208 series and related models (WH10X27534 cross-reference) White-Westinghouse front-load washers — select models Tappan front-load washers — select models Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Frigidaire-built and GE-built models Crosley front-load washers — BTF1240ES0, BTF1240ES1, BTF1240FS0 and related models Gibson front-load washers — select models Note: The door lock assembly (131763256) and the door strike (131763310) are two separate components that work together — if both are worn, replacing them together as a matched set ensures reliable door locking and prevents premature wear on the new lock. The strike is what physically enters the lock when the door closes. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features Universal-fit door lock and switch assembly — replaces both Frigidaire (131763xxx-series) and GE (WH10X-series) OEM door locks in a single aftermarket part Locks the washer door during the wash and spin cycles and signals the control board that the door is safely closed Resolves E47 error codes on compatible Frigidaire and Electrolux washers Rated 120VAC, 50/60Hz — correct electrical specifications for compatible washers 8 terminal connections for the wire harness Dimensions: 4-1/2"L x 3-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H Gray and red matte finish, plastic and metal construction Replaces 35+ OEM and cross-reference part numbers spanning Frigidaire, GE, Electrolux, and universal aftermarket catalogs Often replaced together with the matching door strike (131763310, sold separately) as a paired repair Compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, White-Westinghouse, Tappan, Kenmore, Crosley, and Gibson front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 131763256 Also Replaces (GE-side) WH10X27534 Part Type Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly (Universal Fit) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (Frigidaire and GE platforms) Voltage 120V AC Frequency 50/60 Hz Terminals 8 Dimensions 4-1/2"L x 3-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H Color Gray / Red Finish Matte Material Plastic / Metal Error Codes Resolved E47 (door lock error) Often Paired With Door Strike (131763310, sold separately) Compatible Brands Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, White-Westinghouse, Tappan, Kenmore, Crosley, Gibson Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The door lock assembly is mounted on the front panel of the washer just inside the door opening. Open the washer door (if the door is stuck locked, use a putty knife to release the manual override latch through the bottom service opening, then open the door). Peel back the rubber door boot from the front panel edge to expose the mounting screws for the lock assembly — on some models this requires removing the spring-loaded wire clamp securing the boot with needle-nose pliers. Photograph the wire harness connections before disconnecting anything — this assembly has 8 terminals, so getting the wire mapping correct on reinstallation is important. Remove the 2 mounting screws holding the lock assembly to the front panel. Reach in and pull the assembly out through the door opening. Disconnect the wire harness plug from the old assembly. Snap the new 131763256 assembly onto the wire harness plug (should click firmly into place), position it in the front panel opening, and secure with the 2 mounting screws. Press the rubber door boot back into the groove at the front panel and reinstall the spring-loaded wire clamp if applicable — this is the trickiest part of the install. Restore power and test by closing the door and starting a cycle to confirm the door locks and the washer runs normally. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, putty knife (for stuck doors), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Does this really fit both Frigidaire AND GE washers? Yes — this is one of those cases in front-load washer parts where an aftermarket door lock assembly has been designed to serve as a direct replacement for both the Frigidaire 131763xxx-series and the GE WH10X-series door locks. The two OEM assemblies share the same physical dimensions, 8-terminal wire harness configuration, and mounting geometry, allowing a single aftermarket part to function correctly in both platforms. Compatible models span Frigidaire's Affinity series, GE's WCCH/WPXH/WSSH/WSXH series, and select Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Tappan, and Gibson front-load washers. Always verify your specific model number before ordering. What does error code E47 mean on my Frigidaire washer? E47 on Frigidaire and Electrolux front-load washers indicates a door lock circuit fault — the control board is not receiving the expected signal from the door lock assembly to confirm the door is closed and locked. This is typically caused by a failed door lock assembly, but can also be caused by a broken door strike (which physically enters the lock), a damaged wire harness, or a control board issue. Replacing the 131763256 door lock resolves E47 when the lock is the cause; if the code returns after replacement, check the strike and the wire harness next. My washer won't drain and won't spin — is the door lock the problem? Possibly, yes. Front-load washers block drain and spin operations whenever the control board can't confirm the door is locked — this is a safety measure to prevent water release and drum spinning while the door might be open. If your washer fills but won't advance to drain and spin, and there are no obvious pump or motor problems, a failed door lock is a common cause even though the symptom doesn't directly say "door." The failure can also manifest as "won't fill" or "unusual noise" during cycle transitions. Testing the door lock with a multimeter (or replacing it as a diagnostic step given the low cost) is a good first move for these symptoms. My washer door is stuck closed — how do I get it open to install this? If the door is stuck in the locked position because of a failed door lock, you can use a putty knife or thin flat tool to manually release the lock through the bottom service opening at the front of the washer. Reach in through the access panel at the lower front and locate the manual release lever or latch on the back of the door lock assembly — gently push or pry it to release the mechanism. The door should then open. Once open, you can proceed with the installation. Always disconnect power from the washer first. Do I need to replace the door strike (131763310) too? Not always, but often. The door strike is the matching component mounted on the washer door itself — it's the part that the lock's latching mechanism grips when the door closes. If the strike is worn, cracked, or its plastic teeth are broken, the new lock won't engage reliably even if it's working perfectly. Inspect the strike on the door for visible damage before ordering just the lock. Many repair scenarios call for replacing both at the same time since both wear together and the parts complement each other. The matching strike is part number 131763310 (sold separately). Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Frigidaire, GE, or Electrolux OEM part, but is manufactured from plastic and metal to match the dimensions (4-1/2"L x 3-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H), electrical specifications (120V AC, 50/60Hz), 8-terminal wire harness configuration, and lock engagement function of the original door lock assemblies it replaces across multiple manufacturers' catalogs. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) The XPARTCO W11688995 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached. When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately). Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill Replaces Part Numbers This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number XPW11688995 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform) Water Type Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994) Inlet Thread 1/2" NPT Dimensions Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L Color Blue / White Material Plastic / Metal Error Codes Resolved F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault) Often Paired With Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers? Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes. My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve? Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue. Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time? Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit. My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve? Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688995 cold water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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8269144A Dishwasher Genuine Drain Hose Extension Replaces Part Number: 8269144A, 1489097, 8269144, AH2358130, EA2358130, AP4399659, PS2358130. Description: This Drain Hose is a Genuine OEM part for select Whirlpool dishwasher models. This flexible hose is designed to carry waste water from the dishwasher to the kitchen drain system or garbage disposal, ensuring that the dishwasher drains properly after each wash cycle. Common causes of damage to the Drain Hose often involve regular wear and tear, bending or kinking of the hose during installation or maintenance activities, or deterioration over time due to exposure to hot water and detergents. 

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W11210463 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve Cross Reference Information: W11210463, W11038696, 4591539, W10701461, W10869803, W10883458, W11101906, AP6329219, PS12349269. Description: This Washer Water inlet valve is an OEM replacement part for specific Whirlpool brand washer models. The water inlet valve controls the flow of water into the washer. It opens and closes the valve to allow water to enter the washer during the wash cycle. Then it shuts off the flow of water once the cycle is complete.  If a water inlet valve goes bad, it can cause a number of issues. One of the most common symptoms is a lack of water entering the washing machine. Additionally, a faulty water inlet valve can cause the washer to overflow or leak.

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