MJX41869202 Refrigerator Genuine LG Water Inlet Valve
Genuine LG refrigerator water inlet valve designed to control water flow to the ice maker and water dispenser.
✓ Genuine LG Part ✓ Replaces MJX41869202 ✓ Compatibility Support
Product Description
The MJX41869202 Refrigerator Genuine LG Water Inlet Valve controls the flow of water into compatible LG refrigerators. This valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser when called by the appliance.
Replacing a faulty refrigerator water valve can help fix water supply issues, leaking, no ice production, or dispenser flow problems.
Quick Answer
If your refrigerator is not making ice, the water dispenser is not working, or water is leaking near the valve area, the MJX41869202 water inlet valve may need replacement.
⚠️ Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator not making ice
Water dispenser not working
Slow or no water flow
Water leaking from valve area
Faulty refrigerator water inlet valve
Replaces part Number
MJX41869202, 2646397, 5221JB2010J, 5221JB2010L, 5221JB2010Q, MJX41869209, EAP6448332, ALG1106453, AP5666281, PD00005216, PS6448332.
Compatibility
This genuine LG part fits select LG, Kenmore, and compatible refrigerator models using part number MJX41869202.
Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
Key Features
Genuine LG refrigerator water inlet valve
Controls water flow to dispenser and ice maker
Helps restore proper water supply
Designed for compatible refrigerator models
Reliable OEM replacement component
Product Specifications
Brand
LG
Part Type
Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve
Primary Part Number
MJX41869202
Compatible Appliance Type
Refrigerator
Condition
Genuine New
Installation
Disconnect power and shut off the water supply before installation. Inspect water lines, fittings, and connections for leaks after installation.
Troubleshooting Guide
⚠️ Disconnect power and shut off water supply before servicing the refrigerator.
Check the water supply line for kinks or restrictions.
Inspect the valve area for leaks or damaged fittings.
Verify the refrigerator water filter is not clogged.
Replace the water inlet valve if water flow problems continue.
When Should You Replace This Part?
Replace the refrigerator water inlet valve if the ice maker is not filling, the water dispenser has weak or no flow, or water is leaking from the valve area.
Shop With Confidence
We are a U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock parts for major appliance brands and ship quickly from our U.S. warehouse.
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XPARTCO 3406105 Dryer Door Switch Replaces WP3406105
The XPARTCO 3406105 is an aftermarket replacement dryer door switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool-family dryers including Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Admiral, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Norge. The door switch is a safety component mounted inside the dryer cabinet near the door opening. When the door is closed, the door strike depresses the switch actuator, completing the circuit and allowing the dryer to start and run. When the door is opened, the switch opens the circuit and stops the dryer. On models with a broken belt detection circuit, the door switch also plays a role in belt failure detection. A failed door switch causes the dryer to either not start at all or to run continuously with the door open.
This is a Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) 3-wire switch with stainless steel terminals and a heat-resistant housing. It measures 1-3/4" L x 1-5/8" W x 1-1/4" H with a 7-3/4" wiring harness. Electrical specs are 120-240V, 50-60Hz, 11A, 1/3HP. The kit includes the switch and 3-wire harness assembly. It directly replaces WP3406105, 3406104, 3405104, 3405105, 528947, AP6008560, and several additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 3406105 Dryer Door Switch fixes Whirlpool-family dryers that won't start, won't stop when the door is opened, or require the door to be slammed to start. SPDT 3-wire switch, 120-240V/50-60Hz/11A/1/3HP. Body 1-3/4" L x 1-5/8" W x 1-1/4" H, 7-3/4" harness. Includes switch and harness assembly. Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, and more. Replaces WP3406105, 3406104, 3405104, 528947, AP6008560.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer will not start at all — door switch not completing the circuit when door is closed
Dryer starts only when the door is slammed or held firmly closed
Dryer continues to run after the door is opened — switch not opening the circuit
Drum light not turning on when the door is opened (on models with drum light)
Dryer starts intermittently — door switch contact worn and making unreliable contact
Dryer stops mid-cycle randomly — switch opening the circuit due to vibration or wear
Door switch visibly cracked, broken, or the actuator button no longer springs back
Replaces Part Numbers
This door switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP3406105, 3405104, 3405105, 3406104, 3406105, WP3406105VP, AWP47182, PD00003898, EAP11741700, AP6008560, PS11741700.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This door switch is compatible with select gas and electric dryers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dryers (gas and electric)
Kenmore / Sears dryers (Whirlpool-built models)
Maytag dryers (gas and electric)
KitchenAid dryers
Amana dryers
Roper dryers
Estate dryers
Crosley dryers
Inglis dryers
Admiral dryers
Jenn-Air dryers
Magic Chef dryers
Norge dryers
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Safety switch — prevents dryer from operating when the door is open and stops the dryer immediately when the door is opened mid-cycle
Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) 3-wire switch — provides both normally-open and normally-closed contacts for dryer start circuit and belt failure detection on compatible models
Rated 120-240V, 50-60Hz, 11A, 1/3HP — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-family dryers
Switch body: 1-3/4" L x 1-5/8" W x 1-1/4" H; wiring harness: 7-3/4" L
Stainless steel terminals and heat-resistant housing
Kit includes switch and 3-wire harness assembly — complete plug-in replacement
Replaces WP3406105, 3406104, 3405104, 3405105, 528947, and AP6008560
Compatible with 13 major appliance brands on the Whirlpool platform
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
3406105
OEM Part Number
WP3406105
Part Type
Dryer Door Switch Assembly (SPDT 3-Wire)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Gas and Electric Dryers
Switch Type
Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT)
Wires
3-wire
Voltage
120-240V
Frequency
50-60Hz
Amperage
11A
Horsepower
1/3 HP
Switch Body Dimensions
1-3/4" L x 1-5/8" W x 1-1/4" H
Harness Length
7-3/4 inches
Color
Off-White / Black / Gray
Material
Plastic / Metal (stainless steel terminals)
Includes
Switch and 3-wire harness assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Admiral, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Norge
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting Disconnect power (and shut off gas for gas dryers) before beginning. The door switch is located inside the dryer cabinet near the door opening, typically mounted in the front panel or top panel. Access it by inserting a putty knife under the top panel to release the spring clips and lift the top, then release the front panel. Locate the old door switch — it is a small rectangular component with a spring-loaded actuator button. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting. Disconnect the 3-wire harness from the old switch. Release the switch from its mounting bracket by pressing the retaining tabs and pulling the switch free, or unscrewing the mounting screw. Snap the new 3406105 switch into the mounting bracket and reconnect the 3-wire harness in the same positions. Reassemble the front and top panels, restore power, and run a test cycle to confirm the dryer starts, stops when the door is opened, and runs normally. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the dryer door switch do?
The door switch is a safety component that monitors whether the dryer door is open or closed. When the door is closed, the door strike depresses the switch actuator, completing the electrical circuit and signaling the control board that it is safe to run. When the door is opened, the actuator releases, opening the circuit and stopping the dryer immediately. On many Whirlpool-family dryers, the 3-wire SPDT switch also provides a secondary circuit used for broken belt detection — one of the switch's contacts is part of the motor start circuit, while the other is part of a safety cutoff circuit.
How do I test the door switch with a multimeter?
Unplug the dryer and disconnect the switch from the harness. Set your multimeter to continuity mode. The 3406105 is an SPDT switch with three terminals — typically labeled Common (C), Normally Open (NO), and Normally Closed (NC). With the actuator button not pressed (door open position), you should read continuity between C and NC, and no continuity between C and NO. With the actuator button pressed (door closed position), you should read continuity between C and NO, and no continuity between C and NC. Any deviation from this pattern confirms the switch has failed.
What is the difference between 3406105 and 3406104?
The 3406104 was the original part number, and the 3406105 (later updated to WP3406105) is the current replacement that superseded it. They are the same door switch and are fully interchangeable. The 3405104 and 3405105 are also cross-references for this same switch from earlier production. If your dryer's documentation or old switch label shows any of these numbers, the 3406105 is the correct current replacement.
Why does this switch have 3 wires when my old switch only had 2?
The WP3406105 is an SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) switch with 3 terminals — Common, Normally Open, and Normally Closed. Some older dryer models used a simpler 2-wire switch, but the 3-wire WP3406105 is the updated replacement that works on both older and newer models. On models that originally had a 2-wire switch, only two of the three terminals are used — the third is simply left unconnected. Follow your model's wiring diagram or take a photo of the original switch's wire connections before removing it.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured from durable plastic and metal with stainless steel terminals to match the dimensions and electrical specifications of the original WP3406105 door switch assembly.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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WR55X10025 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator Temperature Sensor
The WR55X10025 is a genuine GE OEM temperature sensor, also called a thermistor, for GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore refrigerators. This sensor measures air temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer compartment and reports it continuously to the main control board, which uses that reading to regulate the cooling cycle. On some models, this same sensor design also serves as the defrost sensor mounted on the evaporator coil, monitoring temperature there to help manage the defrost cycle.
Because the control board relies entirely on this sensor's reading to make cooling decisions, a failing or inaccurate sensor can cause the refrigerator to run too cold, too warm, or run for excessively long periods as it tries to correct a temperature it's misreading. On models where it doubles as a defrost sensor, a failure here can also contribute to frost or ice buildup in the freezer. This is a relatively inexpensive part, and it's commonly the actual cause behind symptoms that get mistakenly blamed on the main control board. It directly replaces AP3185407, 914093, AH304103, EA304103, PS304103, WR50X10027, WR50X10034, WR50X10055, WR50X10067, WR55X10025B, WR55X10026, WR55X10027, WR55X10028, WR55X10030, WR55X10087, WR55X10088, WR55X10089, WR55X10367, WR55X10380, WR55X10661, WR55X10711, WR55X10735, WR55X10736, WR55X10737, WR55X10937, WR55X10938, WR55X10939, WR55X11121, WR55X11141, WR55X11150, WR55X11151, and WR55X11152.
Quick Answer
The WR55X10025 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator Temperature Sensor fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore refrigerators that run too cold, too warm, run for excessively long periods, or (on models where this sensor doubles as a defrost sensor) show frost or ice buildup in the freezer. A healthy sensor reads approximately 5,000 ohms at 77°F. Replaces AP3185407, 914093, AH304103, EA304103, PS304103, and a wide range of WR50X/WR55X-prefix numbers listed below. This is an inexpensive part that's frequently the actual cause behind symptoms mistakenly blamed on the main control board — worth testing or replacing before assuming a costlier board repair is needed.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator running too cold
Refrigerator running too warm
Refrigerator running for excessively long periods
Freezer not defrosting properly (on models where this sensor also serves as the defrost sensor)
Freezer too cold or showing frost buildup
Display temperature reading that doesn't match the actual temperature inside the compartment
Inconsistent or fluctuating cooling performance
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator temperature sensor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR55X10025, 914093, WR50X10027, WR50X10034, WR50X10055, WR50X10067, WR55X10025-50PK, WR55X10025B, WR55X10026, WR55X10027, WR55X10028, WR55X10030, WR55X10087, WR55X10088, WR55X10089, WR55X10367, WR55X10380, WR55X10661, WR55X10711, WR55X10735, WR55X10736, WR55X10737, WR55X10937, WR55X10938, WR55X10939, WR55X11121, WR55X11141, WR55X11151, WR55X11152, AH304103, EA304103, OEM9556230, AP3185407, EAP304103, AGE29661, PD00000992, PS304103
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This temperature sensor is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore refrigerators, and is used broadly across most GE side-by-side and French door refrigerator configurations.
Note: While this sensor is used across a very broad range of GE refrigerator models, always verify your full model number before ordering, since some models use a different sensor design. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified resistance curve for accurate temperature reporting
Measures air temperature and reports it continuously to the main control board
Also used as a defrost sensor on the evaporator coil on select models
Resolves "too cold," "too warm," "runs too long," and "display reading doesn't match actual temperature" symptoms
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and wiring
Replaces a wide range of WR50X and WR55X-prefix part numbers listed above
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore refrigerators
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
DIY-friendly repair, typically completed in under an hour
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR55X10025
Part Type
Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Thermistor)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE
Function
Measures compartment or evaporator temperature and reports it to the control board
Typical Resistance
Approx. 5,000 ohms at 77°F
Repair Difficulty
Easy — typically under 1 hour
Quantity
1 temperature sensor
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Danger — Authorized Service Part Required For Flammable Refrigerant Systems GE's own service guidance carries an explicit warning for this component: it is a manufacturer-authorized service part intended for use in refrigerator models that use a flammable refrigerant, such as R600a. Using an unauthorized or incorrectly rated service part in a unit that uses a flammable refrigerant could lead to a risk of fire or explosion. Before ordering or installing, confirm your refrigerator's refrigerant type and verify this part is correct for your specific model. If you have any doubt about your refrigerant type or the correct part for your unit, contact our support team with your model number before proceeding, or have a qualified appliance technician perform this repair.
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Test With A Multimeter Before Replacing Disconnect power at the outlet before beginning, and move perishable food to a cooler for the duration of the repair. Wear work gloves. Before replacing, it's worth testing the old sensor with a multimeter set to ohms — a healthy sensor reads approximately 5,000 ohms at 77°F; a reading well outside that range, or an open circuit, confirms a failed sensor. Locate the sensor, typically mounted on an interior wall of the compartment or clipped to the evaporator coil depending on your model. Photograph the wiring and mounting position before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the sensor's wire connector, remove any mounting clip or bracket, and pull the old sensor free. When positioning the new WR55X10025, make sure it sits in open air away from direct contact with ice buildup areas, since ice touching the sensor can cause it to read colder than the compartment's actual temperature. Reconnect the wire connector and secure the mounting clip. Restore power and monitor the refrigerator over the next 24 hours, comparing the display temperature to an independent thermometer placed in the compartment to confirm accuracy. Tools needed: multimeter, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test whether this sensor has actually failed?
Use a multimeter set to ohms and test the sensor across its two terminals. A healthy sensor typically reads approximately 5,000 ohms at 77°F room temperature; a reading significantly outside that range, or no reading at all (open circuit), confirms the sensor has failed and should be replaced.
My display shows a temperature that doesn't match how cold the fridge actually feels. Could positioning be the issue, not the sensor itself?
Yes, this is a documented and somewhat subtle failure mode. If the sensor ends up positioned too close to an area where ice or frost accumulates, the ice's surface temperature can pull the sensor's reading colder than the actual compartment air temperature, causing the display to show a colder number than reality — sometimes off by several degrees. One customer traced exactly this issue to ice buildup near the sensor location and resolved it by ensuring the new sensor sat clear of that ice-prone area during installation.
Could my problem actually be the control board instead of this sensor?
It's worth testing this sensor first before assuming a control board issue. This is a relatively inexpensive part, and it's commonly the actual root cause behind symptoms that get misdiagnosed as a control board failure, since the board is only ever as accurate as the temperature data it receives. Testing or simply replacing this sensor is a low-cost step worth taking before pursuing a more expensive board repair.
Why is there a fire/explosion warning on this part?
Some refrigerators use a flammable refrigerant, such as R600a (isobutane), instead of older non-flammable refrigerants. Electrical components near refrigerant lines can be a source of ignition if a leak were ever present, which is why GE requires an authorized, correctly rated service part for these systems rather than a generic substitute. Confirming your model and refrigerant type before ordering is the appropriate precaution.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original resistance curve and mounting configuration of the temperature sensor originally installed in your refrigerator.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
67006390 Refrigerator Hv Control Box
Replaces Part Numbers: WP67006390, 67006390, 12957601, 12957601SP, 4435670, AP6010509, PS11743690.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
W10503278 Refrigerator Control Board
Refrigerator electronic (JAZZ) control board. Be aware the board will need to programmed after installation to work properly
Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10503278, 12784415, W10503278, 12002339, 12002445, 12002449, 12002508, 12002509, 12002567, 12002706, 12784415V, 12868502, 12868510, 12868513, 2684578, 67003867, 67004453, 67004496, 67004907, 67005043, 67005280, 67005281, 67006034, 67006209, 67006214, 67006216, 67006226, 67006712, 67006740, 8208187, AP6022400, PS11755733, W10165748.
Description: This Electronic Control Board is a replacement part for Specific Maytag, Whirlpool refrigerator models. This Electronic (JAZZ) Control Board manages various functions of your refrigerator, ensuring proper temperature control and operation.
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
Genuine OEM WPW10196393 Refrigerator Damper Control Assembly
The Genuine OEM Whirlpool WPW10196393 is the damper control assembly for select Whirlpool-built refrigerators, sold under brands including Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid and Amana. The damper meters cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, and the refrigerator's thermostat controls it. When it fails, the fresh food section can run too warm or too cold, and the refrigerator may be noisy.
This is the original Whirlpool part, not an aftermarket equivalent. It is sold individually. Check your model number before ordering.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WPW10196393 Damper Control Assembly replaces the damper that lets freezer air into the fresh food section when it has failed. Replaces W10196393, 67006116, W10127429 and W10196393N. Classic symptoms: the fresh food section is too warm or too cold, or the refrigerator is unusually noisy.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator section running too warm
Refrigerator section running too cold
Excessive noise
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This damper control assembly replaces or supersedes the following part numbers:
WPW10196393, 1481880, 67006116, W10127429, W10196393, W10196393N, AP6016813, EAP11750106, AWP49242, PD00004826, PS11750106
If your old assembly shows a different number, contact our support team and we'll check whether it matches.
Compatibility
This damper control assembly is listed for refrigerators sold under Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Inglis, Dacor and other Whirlpool-built brands, including these examples:
Kenmore 59665232402, 59665234402, 59665239402, 59665262700, 59665332600, 59665932402, 59665934402
Kenmore 59666032603, 59669969013, 59669983014, 59669984010
KitchenAid KBRS22KWWH4
Maytag MFX2571XEW3, MBL1956KES6, MFI2665XEM4
Amana ABB2224WES0
Note: The models above are a sample, not a full list. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM Whirlpool part, not an aftermarket equivalent
Controls airflow from the freezer into the fresh food section
Works with the refrigerator's thermostat
Sold individually
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10196393
OEM Part Number
WPW10196393
Part Type
Refrigerator Damper Control Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Manufacturer
Whirlpool
Quantity
1 Assembly
Application
Select Whirlpool-Built Refrigerators
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Installing Unplug the refrigerator before you begin. Remove the damper control cover, then the screws and foam protector behind it, and unplug the wire harness. Unclip the old assembly, clip in the new one, reconnect the harness, and reassemble in reverse order. Restore power and watch the damper open and close to confirm it lets air through.
Frequently Asked Questions
My refrigerator section is too warm or too cold. Is this the part I need?
It can be. If the freezer is cold but the fresh food section is not, the damper may not be opening. If the section is too cold or the refrigerator is noisy, the damper may be stuck open or failing. Confirm the damper is the cause before replacing it.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part from Whirlpool, not an aftermarket equivalent.
Does this replace W10196393?
Yes. W10196393 is replaced by WPW10196393, and the assembly is also cross-referenced to 67006116, W10127429 and W10196393N. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
Will this fit my refrigerator?
It is listed for many Whirlpool-built models, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO DA47-00243K Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
The XPARTCO DA47-00243K is an aftermarket replacement defrost bi-metal thermostat compatible with select Samsung French door and bottom freezer refrigerators. This thermostat is a critical component in the automatic defrost system, functioning as a thermal safety device that monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils during the defrost cycle.
When the evaporator reaches the preset maximum temperature of 140°F (60°C), the bi-metal thermostat opens the circuit and cuts power to the defrost heater — preventing overheating and damage to the evaporator. It resets and closes again at 104°F (40°C), allowing the next defrost cycle to begin normally. When the thermostat fails, it can cause excessive frost buildup on the evaporator coils, poor cooling performance, or a heater that won't shut off — all resulting in the refrigerator failing to maintain proper temperatures.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO DA47-00243K Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat fixes refrigerators with excessive frost buildup, a freezer that is too cold while the fridge is too warm, a heater that won't shut off, or a refrigerator that stops cooling. It is compatible with select Samsung French door and bottom freezer refrigerators and opens at 140°F to protect the evaporator from overheating.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Excessive frost or ice buildup on evaporator coils
Freezer too cold while refrigerator section is too warm
Defrost heater not shutting off after defrost cycle
Refrigerator not cooling or maintaining temperature
Food spoiling faster than normal
Unusual humming or running sounds from the back of the fridge
Replaces Part Numbers
This thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
DA47-00243K, 2025696, DA47-00243B, DA47-00243C, DA47-00243J, ASM30257, PD00002154, EAP4140510, AP4403832, PS4140510.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This defrost thermostat is compatible with select refrigerators from the following brands:
Samsung French door refrigerators
Samsung bottom freezer refrigerators
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Bi-metal thermal safety device — opens at 140°F (60°C) to cut power to the defrost heater and prevent evaporator overheating
Resets automatically at 104°F (40°C) — allowing the next defrost cycle to begin normally
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
2-terminal design — direct drop-in replacement, no modification required
Restores proper frost-free operation and refrigerator cooling performance
DIY-friendly repair — installs with basic hand tools in 30–45 minutes
Budget-friendly alternative to OEM at a lower cost without sacrificing performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
DA47-00243K
Part Type
Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerator Defrost System
Open Temperature
140°F (60°C)
Close Temperature
104°F (40°C)
Terminals
2
Compatible Brands
Samsung
Installation Notes
⚠️ Safety First — Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator from the power source before beginning any repair. Safely remove and store any food that could deteriorate while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Access the evaporator coils by removing the rear panel inside the freezer compartment. Disconnect the wiring harness from the old thermostat and clip the new DA47-00243K thermostat onto the evaporator coil in the same position. Reconnect the wiring harness and reassemble the freezer panel. Allow 24 hours for the refrigerator to return to normal operating temperature. Consult your refrigerator's service manual for model-specific instructions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will the DA47-00243K fit my Samsung refrigerator?
This thermostat is compatible with select Samsung French door and bottom freezer refrigerators. Use the model search above to verify your model, or contact our support team before ordering.
What does a defrost thermostat do?
The defrost bi-metal thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils during the defrost cycle. It opens the circuit and cuts power to the defrost heater when the evaporator reaches 140°F (60°C), preventing overheating. It automatically resets and closes again at 104°F (40°C) to allow the next cycle.
What are signs that my defrost thermostat needs replacement?
Common signs include: excessive frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils, the freezer running too cold while the refrigerator section is too warm, the defrost heater failing to shut off, or the refrigerator not maintaining proper temperatures and food spoiling faster than normal.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Samsung OEM part, but is designed to deliver reliable, long-lasting performance at a more affordable price point.
At what temperatures does the DA47-00243K open and close?
The thermostat opens (cuts power to the heater) at 140°F (60°C) and closes (resets) at 104°F (40°C).
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242252603 Refrigerator Ice Maker Water Valve
Description: This Water Valve is a Genuine part for specific Frigidaire refrigerator models. It is crucial for controlling the flow of water to the ice maker and water dispenser. This solenoid-operated valve responds to commands from the refrigerator's electronic control to supply water when needed, ensuring efficient operation and reliable delivery of ice and water.
Replaces Part Numbers: 242252603, PS7784017, AP5671756, 7241803701, 241803703, 7241803701, 7241803701, 241803701, 240519601, 240380301, 5303304971, 5303289068, 218720400, 218475600.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
Genuine Whirlpool OEM
Whirlpool WP2305258 Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Door Chute
Genuine OEM ice chute door for select Whirlpool, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators.
Product Overview
The Whirlpool WP2305258 Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Door Chute is a Genuine OEM dispenser component that opens to allow ice to pass through the chute and closes to help seal the dispenser opening when not in use.
A damaged, warped, or sticking chute door can allow ice to spill, prevent the dispenser from sealing correctly, or cause frost and moisture around the dispenser area.
Quick Answer
WP2305258 is the Genuine Whirlpool OEM ice dispenser chute door. It replaces original part number 2305258 and fits select Whirlpool-built side-by-side refrigerators.
Common Problems This Part May Fix
Ice falls out of the dispenser unexpectedly
Ice chute door will not close fully
Door is cracked, warped, or broken
Warm air enters through the dispenser opening
Frost or moisture forms around the chute
Dispenser flap does not seal after dispensing
Replaces and Cross-References
WP2305258, 1174891, 2305258, AP3854387, AWP885431, AH986856, EAP986856, OEM18021486, PD00004757, PS986856
Cross-reference numbers are supplied for identification. Verify the refrigerator model number before ordering.
Compatibility
Confirmed applications include select Whirlpool-built side-by-side refrigerators sold under Whirlpool, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore brands. Examples include:
GS6NBEXRY02
KSRS25RVMS05
KSRS25RVMK05
KSCS25FVSS03
KSRT25CRSS00
KSRS25RSMS01
KSCS25FTMK02
KSCS23FVMS01
KSRS25RVMK02
106.54782803
106.57794704
106.57792704
Important: This is only a partial fitment list. Verify the complete model number from the refrigerator data label before purchase.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement part
Ice dispenser chute door / flap
Helps direct ice into the dispensing chute
Closes after dispensing to help seal the opening
Direct-fit component for compatible models
Product Specifications
Manufacturer Part Number
WP2305258
Brand
Whirlpool
Part Type
Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Door Chute
OEM Status
Genuine OEM
Appliance Type
Refrigerator
Condition
New
Package Quantity
1 Ice Chute Door
Installation Notes
Disconnect refrigerator power before service.
Remove the dispenser trim or front housing according to the model-specific procedure.
Photograph the original chute-door position and linkage before removal.
Inspect the support bracket, spring, motor/actuator, and seal surfaces for damage.
Install the new chute door in the same orientation and confirm free movement.
Reassemble the dispenser and confirm the door opens during dispensing and closes completely afterward.
Diagnostic tip: If the chute door does not close after replacement, inspect the actuator motor, support bracket, spring, linkage, and dispenser control before replacing additional parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is WP2305258 a Genuine OEM part?
Yes. It is a Genuine Whirlpool OEM refrigerator dispenser ice chute door.
Does WP2305258 replace 2305258?
Yes. WP2305258 is the current replacement for original part number 2305258.
What does the ice chute door do?
It opens when ice is dispensed and closes afterward to help seal the dispenser opening.
Will this fit every Whirlpool refrigerator?
No. It fits specific dispenser designs. Confirm the complete refrigerator model number before ordering.
Shop With Confidence
Verify the refrigerator model before ordering. This listing is for the Genuine Whirlpool OEM WP2305258 ice chute door.
Genuine Whirlpool OEMIce Chute DoorCompatibility SupportFast U.S. Shipping
XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084
The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle.
Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers
Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid
Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement
Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models
Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal
Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage
Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut
Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position
Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands:
Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more)
Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series)
KitchenAid top-load washers (select models)
Roper top-load washers (select models)
Estate top-load washers (select models)
Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Amana top-load washers (select models)
Magic Chef top-load washers (select models)
Crosley top-load washers (select models)
Admiral top-load washers (select models)
Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open
Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure
Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction
Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP
Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H
3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire
Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer
One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models
Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
8318084
OEM Part Number
WP8318084
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform)
Voltage
125–250V
Frequency
50–60 Hz
Motor Rating
1/2 HP
Dimensions
3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H
Terminals
3 flat terminals + green grounding wire
Color
Gray / White
Material
Plastic housing
Location
Under the control panel, top rear left corner
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem?
Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated.
Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell?
This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician.
What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084?
These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch.
Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer?
No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor Replaces WPW10350564
The XPARTCO W10350564 is an aftermarket replacement compressor run capacitor compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers. The run capacitor is a small but critical electrical component mounted near the compressor at the back of the refrigerator — it delivers a phase-shifted power boost that helps the compressor motor start at the beginning of each cooling cycle, and supports smooth, efficient motor operation while the compressor runs. When the capacitor fails — typically from dielectric breakdown, age, heat, or moisture intrusion — the compressor may fail to start, hum without starting, kick on and off repeatedly, or cause inconsistent cooling throughout the refrigerator.
Rated 12 µF (MFD) ±5% capacitance, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. This capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device — the two components are frequently replaced together, since a failed capacitor often stresses the relay and vice versa. It directly replaces WPW10350564, W10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570. This is one of the most cost-effective refrigerator repairs — a failed run capacitor mimics symptoms of a failed compressor (a far more expensive repair), so testing and replacing the capacitor first can save hundreds of dollars. Installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers where the compressor won't start, hums without starting, kicks on and off, or the fridge/freezer is too warm with inconsistent cooling. 12 µF (MFD) ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, 2683570. Often replaced together with the compressor start relay. A 15-minute repair that can save you from misdiagnosing a "failed compressor."
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Compressor won't start — no power boost from the failed capacitor
Compressor hums or clicks but doesn't start running
Compressor kicks on and off repeatedly (short cycling)
Refrigerator and freezer too warm — cooling cycles not completing
Fridge too warm while freezer seems okay — weak compressor operation
Noticeable humming sounds from the back of the refrigerator
Inconsistent cooling and variable temperatures inside the refrigerator
Refrigerator will not start at all
Capacitor visibly bulged, leaking, or burned
Capacitance test reads significantly off from 12 µF
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This run capacitor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10350564, W10350564, PD00030179, EAP11753490, AP6020176, AWP50050, PS11753490.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This run capacitor is compatible with select refrigerators and freezers from the following brands:
Whirlpool refrigerators — French door, side-by-side, and bottom-mount models (including WRX735SDBM00 and related WRX/WRF series)
Maytag refrigerators (select models)
KitchenAid refrigerators (select models)
Jenn-Air refrigerators (select models)
Amana refrigerators (select models)
Magic Chef refrigerators (select models)
Roper refrigerators (select models)
Admiral refrigerators (select models)
Ikea refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models)
Also fits compatible upright and chest freezers on the Whirlpool platform
Note: The run capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events — many repair scenarios call for replacing both at the same time since both are accessible in the same location and the combined parts cost is still far below a service call. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Compressor run capacitor — delivers the phase-shifted power boost that starts the compressor motor and supports smooth operation during cooling cycles
Rated 12 µF (MFD) capacitance with ±5% tolerance — precise match to OEM electrical specifications
180VAC, 50/60Hz rating for compatible refrigerator compressor circuits
Resolves "compressor won't start," "humming but not starting," "short cycling," and "too warm" symptoms when caused by capacitor failure
A cost-effective first repair — failed capacitors commonly mimic the symptoms of a far more expensive failed compressor
Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers
Often replaced together with the compressor start relay/start device as a paired repair
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10350564
OEM Part Number
WPW10350564
Part Type
Refrigerator Compressor Run Capacitor
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerators and Freezers (Whirlpool platform)
Capacitance
12 µF (MFD)
Tolerance
±5%
Voltage
180V AC
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Mounting Location
Near compressor, rear of refrigerator
Often Paired With
Compressor Start Relay / Start Device
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Capacitor Safety Warning — Stored Electrical Charge Capacitors store an electrical charge even after the refrigerator is unplugged. Before handling the old capacitor, discharge it safely: with the refrigerator unplugged, touch the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver across both capacitor terminals simultaneously to short them together (you may see or hear a small spark — that's the stored charge dissipating). Never touch the capacitor terminals with bare hands before discharging. If you're not comfortable with this step, have the repair done by a qualified appliance technician.
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall to access the rear. Safely store any food that could spoil if the repair takes longer than expected. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The run capacitor is located near the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, typically behind a lower rear access panel. Remove the screws holding the access panel and set it aside. Locate the capacitor — a small rectangular or oval component connected to the compressor's start relay/start device by wire terminals. Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting anything. Discharge the old capacitor before touching the terminals (see the safety warning above). Disconnect the wire terminals from the old capacitor — note which wire goes to which terminal. Release the capacitor from its mounting clip or bracket. Install the new W10350564 capacitor in the same position, secure the mounting clip, and reconnect the wires to the same terminals as photographed. While the panel is open, inspect the start relay/start device on the side of the compressor — if it rattles when shaken, shows burn marks, or has corroded terminals, replace it at the same time. Reinstall the rear access panel, push the refrigerator back into place, plug it in, and listen for the compressor to start smoothly within a few minutes. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, insulated-handle flathead screwdriver (for discharging), needle-nose pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the run capacitor has failed and not the compressor?
This is the key question — because a failed $15–30 capacitor produces nearly identical symptoms to a failed $300+ compressor. Signs pointing to the capacitor: the compressor hums or clicks but won't start; the compressor tries to start, runs briefly, then shuts off (short cycling); or the refrigerator gradually stopped cooling with humming from the rear. To test: unplug the refrigerator, discharge the capacitor, disconnect it, and measure it with a multimeter that has a capacitance setting — a healthy capacitor reads close to 12 µF (within ±5%). A reading far off, zero, or infinite confirms the capacitor has failed. Visual signs like bulging, leaking, or burn marks also confirm failure. Given the low cost, replacing the capacitor (and start relay) first is the standard diagnostic approach before condemning the compressor.
Should I replace the start relay at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The run capacitor and the compressor start relay/start device work together in the compressor's starting circuit — the relay switches power to the start winding while the capacitor provides the phase-shifted boost. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events (voltage spikes, overheating, repeated failed start attempts). Both components are inexpensive, mounted in the same location on or near the compressor, and accessible in the same repair session. A quick relay check: with the refrigerator unplugged, remove the relay and shake it — if it rattles, the internal components have failed and it needs replacement.
Why does the capacitor need to be discharged before handling?
Capacitors store electrical energy — that's their job. Even after the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor can hold a charge capable of delivering a painful (and potentially dangerous) shock when you touch both terminals. Before handling, always discharge the capacitor by shorting both terminals together with the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver — touch the metal blade across both terminals at once and hold for a second or two. You may see a small spark as the charge dissipates; that's normal. After discharging, the capacitor is safe to handle. This takes five seconds and eliminates the shock risk entirely.
What's the difference between a run capacitor and a start capacitor?
Both assist the compressor motor but in different phases of operation. A start capacitor delivers a large, brief boost only during the initial moment of motor startup, then is switched out of the circuit. A run capacitor — like the W10350564 — stays in the circuit continuously while the motor runs, providing an ongoing phase shift that improves the motor's running efficiency and torque. Household refrigerators on the Whirlpool platform typically use a run capacitor working alongside the start relay/start device. Match the replacement to your original: the W10350564 is a 12 µF, 180VAC run capacitor, and the capacitance rating must match for correct compressor operation.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (12 µF ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz), terminal configuration, and compressor-support function of the original WPW10350564/W10350564 run capacitor used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
Genuine GE OEM Refrigerator Part
GE WR14X29372 Refrigerator Genuine Fresh Food Door Gasket - White
Genuine OEM fresh-food compartment door gasket for select GE and Hotpoint top-mount refrigerators.
Product Overview
The GE WR14X29372 Refrigerator Fresh Food Door Gasket is a Genuine GE OEM replacement seal for compatible refrigerator fresh-food doors. The gasket creates an airtight seal around the door perimeter to help keep warm room air out and cooled air inside.
This gasket is white and is designed for select GE and Hotpoint top-mount refrigerators.
Quick Answer
WR14X29372 is a Genuine GE OEM white fresh-food refrigerator door gasket. Replace it when the original gasket is torn, cracked, deformed, or no longer sealing properly. Always verify the complete appliance model number before ordering.
Common Problems This Part May Fix
Warm air entering the fresh-food compartment
Condensation or moisture around the refrigerator door
Excess frost or temperature instability
Door gasket is torn, split, cracked, or hardened
Door gasket has pulled away from the liner
Refrigerator runs longer because of air leakage
Replaces and Cross-References
WR14X29372, 4589966, AP6328755, EAP12298193, AGE28136, OEM18986274, PD00056633, PS12298193
Cross-reference numbers are provided for identification. Confirm fit using the complete refrigerator model number.
Compatibility
Fits select GE and Hotpoint top-mount refrigerators. Compatible model examples include:
GTE15CTHLRWW
GTE15CTHLLWW
GTE15CTHMRWW
GTE15NTHMRWW
GTS15CTHLRWW
GTS15CTHMRWW
FBS15RCKLRWW
HPS15BTHMRWW
HPE15BTHLRWW
Important: This is only a partial model list. Verify the complete refrigerator model number before purchase. Similar GE refrigerators may use a different fresh-food or freezer gasket.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM replacement part
Fresh-food compartment door gasket
White color
Helps maintain an airtight door seal
Helps reduce warm-air infiltration and moisture
Designed for select GE and Hotpoint refrigerators
Product Specifications
Manufacturer Part Number
WR14X29372
Brand
GE Appliances
Part Type
Fresh Food Door Gasket
Color
White
Condition
New
Part Quality
Genuine OEM
Application
Refrigerator Fresh-Food Door
Approx. Shipping Weight
3.28 lb
Package Quantity
1 Door Gasket
Installation Notes
Safely store temperature-sensitive food before leaving the refrigerator door open for service.
Compare the new gasket with the original before removing the old seal.
If the replacement gasket arrives folded or creased, allow it to relax at room temperature or gently warm it according to manufacturer guidance before installation.
Remove the old gasket carefully and clean the mounting surface.
Install the new gasket evenly around the door perimeter without stretching it.
Close the door and inspect the entire seal for gaps, twists, or rolled edges.
Fit tip: GE service guidance notes that shipping folds/creases can be smoothed by warming the gasket gently. Do not overheat or deform the gasket.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is WR14X29372 a Genuine GE OEM gasket?
Yes. WR14X29372 is a Genuine GE Appliances refrigerator door gasket.
Is this the fresh-food or freezer gasket?
This part is for the fresh-food refrigerator door. The freezer door on many compatible models uses a different gasket.
What color is this gasket?
White.
Why does the new gasket look folded when it arrives?
Door gaskets are often folded for shipping. Gentle warming and allowing the gasket to relax can help remove temporary creases before installation.
Will this fit every GE refrigerator?
No. Verify the complete model number because GE uses different gaskets across refrigerator platforms.
Shop With Confidence
Verify the complete refrigerator model number before ordering. This is a Genuine GE OEM part made for compatible GE and Hotpoint refrigerators.
Genuine GE OEMFresh Food Door GasketWhiteCompatibility Support
