279827 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor
The 279827 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dryer drive motor with pre-attached pulley, compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers. The drive motor is the component that powers everything that moves in your dryer — it turns the drum belt (which rotates the drum to tumble clothes) and simultaneously drives the blower wheel (which pushes heated air through the drum and out the exhaust vent). When the motor fails, the dryer either won't start, won't tumble, stops mid-cycle, or makes loud humming, buzzing, or grinding noises.
This is a dual-shaft motor: the drive shaft (1-3/4" long) connects to the drum belt via the pre-attached pulley, and the blower shaft (1-3/4" long) drives the blower wheel. The pulley is pre-attached and is not available separately — if your old motor's pulley is worn, this replacement includes a new one. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the 279827 is one of the most widely used dryer motors across the Whirlpool platform, replacing over 70 legacy part numbers spanning decades of production. Key cross-references include W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, 3391888, 3395652, AP3094245, PS334304, and EAP334304. Includes the motor assembly, two 1/8" insulated female terminals, and instructions. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse (electric dryers) and door switch first — a blown fuse or failed switch produces identical no-start symptoms and is a far cheaper fix. Installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The 279827 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers that won't start, won't tumble, stop mid-cycle, or make loud humming/buzzing/grinding noises. Dual-shaft drive motor with pre-attached pulley. Shaft lengths: blower 1-3/4", drive 1-3/4". Includes motor assembly + 2 insulated female terminals + instructions. Genuine OEM. Key cross-refs: W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, AP3094245, PS334304. Before replacing the motor: check the thermal fuse and door switch first — they're far cheaper fixes for no-start symptoms.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer won't start — motor has failed or seized
Dryer won't tumble — motor not powering the drum belt
Dryer stops mid-cycle — motor overheating or intermittently failing
Loud humming or buzzing when the start button is pressed — motor trying to start but can't
Grinding or squealing noise during operation — worn motor bearings
Motor runs but drum doesn't turn — pulley worn or belt slipping on a worn motor shaft
Dryer runs intermittently — motor cutting out from thermal overload
Burning smell from the motor area — overheating windings or seized bearings
Motor locked up or seized — bearings failed completely
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dryer drive motor directly replaces a large number of OEM and cross-reference part numbers spanning decades of Whirlpool-platform dryer production. Key replacements include:
279827, 3388235, 2019, 2584, 26000299992, 26000695925, 337099, 337100, 3388209, 3388234, 339088, 3391886, 3391887, 3392857, 339627, 339635, 339662, 339672, 340907, 343029, 345437, 348804, 349587, 349808, 3980069, 660199, 660617, 661654, 687499, 687988, 690094, 690870, 694051, 695089, 695925, 697075, 786067, 786090, 8066206, 8066207, 8115, 8528319, 8538262, 8539555, S87-531, W10194250, W10366770, W10396029, W10396032, W10448892, AH334304, AM211, EA334304, K35-099, OEM9282744, AP3094245, AWP39205, EAP334304, PD00002349, PS334304.
This is one of the most extensively cross-referenced parts in the Whirlpool catalog. If your old motor shows a part number not listed here, contact our support team with your dryer model number and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drive motor is compatible with select dryers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dryers — electric and gas models across many generations (WED, WGD, LER, LGR, LEQ, LGQ series and many more)
Maytag dryers — select Whirlpool-built models (MED, MGD, MEDC, MEDX series)
KitchenAid dryers (select models)
Jenn-Air dryers (select models)
Amana dryers — select models (NED, NGD series)
Magic Chef dryers (select models)
Admiral dryers (select models)
Norge dryers (select models)
Roper dryers (select models)
Estate dryers (select models)
Kenmore / Sears dryers — select Whirlpool-built models (110-series)
Important — Before Replacing the Motor: A dryer that won't start can be caused by several components that are far cheaper and easier to replace than the motor. Before ordering, check the thermal fuse (electric dryers — test for continuity with a multimeter), the door switch (test for continuity when pressed), and the start switch. All three produce identical no-start symptoms. Only replace the motor after ruling out these common causes — a motor replacement is a significant repair, and it's far cheaper to replace a $10 thermal fuse than a $150+ motor. Always verify your dryer model number before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Dryer drive motor — powers the drum (via belt and pulley) and the blower wheel simultaneously
Dual-shaft design: drive shaft 1-3/4" and blower shaft 1-3/4"
Pre-attached pulley (pulley is not available separately — included with the motor)
Resolves "won't start," "won't tumble," "stops mid-cycle," "humming/buzzing," "grinding," and "burning smell" symptoms when caused by motor failure
Includes motor assembly, two 1/8" insulated female terminals, and instructions
One of the most widely used dryer motors across the Whirlpool platform — replaces 60+ legacy part numbers
Key cross-references: W10448892, W10396029, W10194250, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, 3391888, AP3094245, PS334304, EAP334304
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers
Designed for heavy daily use with minimal noise
DIY repair — installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
279827
Part Type
Dryer Drive Motor with Pulley
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dryers — Electric & Gas (Whirlpool platform)
Drive Shaft Length
1-3/4"
Blower Shaft Length
1-3/4"
Pulley
Pre-attached (not sold separately)
Function
Powers drum rotation (via belt/pulley) and blower wheel
Kit Includes
Motor assembly, 2x 1/8" insulated female terminals, instructions
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Starting — 240V Circuit (Electric) or Gas Line (Gas) — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the breaker before beginning — electric dryers operate on a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock. For gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Pull the dryer away from the wall. Remove the lint screen and the screws beneath it. For most Whirlpool-platform dryers, remove the top panel by releasing the spring clips at the front, then detach the front panel by removing the screws at the top corners. Disconnect the door switch wires and set the front panel aside. Support the drum and slide it forward to access the motor at the bottom rear. Remove the drum belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley. Photograph the motor's wiring connections before disconnecting. Disconnect the electrical connections from the motor. Remove the blower wheel from the old motor's blower shaft — this typically requires a clamp or clip removal (the blower wheel threads off counterclockwise on many models). Remove the motor mounting clip/bracket and lift out the old motor. Install the new 279827 motor in the same position. Transfer the blower wheel onto the new motor's blower shaft and secure it. Reinstall the motor mounting clip/bracket. Reconnect the electrical connections using the included insulated female terminals if needed (match your photos). Re-route the drum belt around the drum, through the idler pulley, and onto the motor pulley. Reassemble the front panel, top panel, and lint screen. Restore power (and gas for gas dryers) and run a test cycle — confirm the drum spins smoothly and heated air flows through the drum. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, socket/ratchet set, putty knife (for spring clips), needle-nose pliers, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer won't start — is the motor definitely the problem?
Not necessarily — and this is important because a motor replacement is a significant repair. A dryer that won't start can be caused by several components that are far cheaper and easier to replace. Before ordering the motor, check these first: 1) Thermal fuse (electric dryers) — a blown thermal fuse is the single most common cause of a no-start condition. Test for continuity with a multimeter; if it reads open, replace the fuse (~$10). 2) Door switch — test for continuity when pressed; if it's failed, the dryer won't start as a safety measure. 3) Start switch — if pressing the start button produces no response at all, the start switch itself may have failed. Only replace the motor after ruling these out. Signs that point specifically to the motor: a loud humming or buzzing when you press start (motor trying but can't turn), grinding or squealing from the motor area, or a motor that runs intermittently and cuts out.
Why does the motor hum but the drum doesn't turn?
A humming motor that won't turn is a classic sign of a seized or failing motor — the windings are energized (hence the hum) but the shaft can't rotate because the bearings have failed or the motor is mechanically stuck. This can also be caused by the blower wheel being jammed with lint or debris, preventing the shaft from turning — so before condemning the motor, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If the blower wheel spins freely and the motor still hums without turning, the motor has failed and needs replacement. Note: a humming motor that won't start will eventually trip the thermal fuse as a safety measure, so you may need to replace both the motor and the thermal fuse.
Why are there so many cross-reference part numbers for this motor?
The 279827 is one of the most extensively cross-referenced parts in the Whirlpool catalog because it's been the standard dryer drive motor across the Whirlpool platform for decades — spanning Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, Kenmore, and many other brands that Whirlpool manufactures for. Over the years, the motor has been assigned different part numbers by different brands, distributors, and catalog systems (W10448892, W10396029, 8066206, 3395654, 3398046, etc.), but they all point to the same motor. If your old motor shows ANY of those numbers, the 279827 is the correct replacement.
Does this motor come with the pulley?
Yes — the pulley is pre-attached to the motor and is not available separately. The pulley is what the drum belt rides on, transferring the motor's rotation to the drum. If your old motor's pulley was worn or grooved (a common cause of belt slipping and squealing), the new 279827 includes a fresh pulley. You will need to transfer the blower wheel from your old motor to the new one — the blower wheel is not included.
Should I replace the belt and idler pulley while changing the motor?
It's strongly recommended. When you replace the motor, the dryer is already apart and both the drum belt and idler pulley are right there in your hands. All three components wear from the same friction and heat cycles, and installing a new motor with a worn belt or a seized idler pulley puts unnecessary stress on the new motor from day one. Many technicians replace the belt, idler pulley, and drum support rollers as standard maintenance whenever the dryer is opened for a motor replacement — the combined cost of these parts is modest compared to the labor of disassembling the dryer again later.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same drive motor with pulley installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Estate, and Kenmore dryers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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XPARTCO W11612326 Dishwasher Circulation Pump (OE)
OE-style dishwasher circulation pump designed to move water through the spray arms and restore proper dishwasher wash performance.
✓ Dishwasher Repair Part ✓ Replaces W11612326 ✓ Compatibility Support
Product Description
The XPARTCO W11612326 Dishwasher Circulation Pump moves water through the dishwasher spray arms during the wash cycle. A faulty circulation pump can cause poor cleaning, weak water pressure, unusual pump noise, or incomplete wash performance.
Replacing a failed dishwasher circulation pump can help restore proper water circulation and improve dishwashing results.
What is OE ?: “OE” (Original Equipment) parts are built to the same specifications, materials, and performance standards as the original factory parts. They offer identical fit and function to OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) components but are typically sold under independent brands like XPARTCO for better affordability.
Quick Answer
If your dishwasher is not cleaning properly, has weak spray arm pressure, or makes unusual pump noise, the W11612326 circulation pump may need replacement.
⚠️ Always verify your dishwasher’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not cleaning dishes properly
Weak spray arm water pressure
Water not circulating during wash cycle
Unusual circulation pump noise
Poor dishwasher wash performance
Replaces part Number
W11612326, W10879262, W10805386, W11521435, AP7193729, PS16744934, 4460096, AP6027386, AWP45622, AP16744934, PD00080710, PS11759751.
Compatibility
This part fits select Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, and compatible dishwasher models using part number W11612326.
Always verify your dishwasher’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
Key Features
Dishwasher circulation pump replacement
Helps restore proper water circulation
Supports spray arm water pressure
Designed for compatible dishwasher models
“OE” (Original Equipment) parts are built to the same specifications, materials, and performance standards as the original factory parts.
Product Specifications
Brand
XPARTCO
Part Type
Dishwasher Circulation Pump
Primary Part Number
W11612326-OE
Compatible Appliance Type
Dishwasher
Condition
New
Installation
Disconnect power and water supply before installation. Inspect hoses, seals, and wiring connections after installation.
Troubleshooting Guide
⚠️ Disconnect power and water supply before servicing the dishwasher.
Check spray arms and filters for blockage before replacing the pump.
Inspect the circulation pump area for leaks or unusual noise.
Verify wiring connections are secure.
Replace the circulation pump if water circulation problems continue.
When Should You Replace This Part?
Replace the dishwasher circulation pump if the dishwasher has poor cleaning performance, weak spray pressure, unusual pump noise, or water is not circulating during the wash cycle.
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We are a U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in high-quality replacement parts. We stock parts for major appliance brands and ship quickly from our U.S. warehouse.
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WPW10448896 Dryer Genuine OEM Drive Motor
Replaces Part Number: WPW10448896, W10448896, 2312076, 8547170, 8571882, W10007310, W10136931, W10136932, W10396036, W10460374, AP6021554, PS11754878.
Description: This Dryer Drive Motor is a Genuine OEM part for specific Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag dryer models. This motor is responsible for turning the drum and the blower wheel, which allows for effective drying and air circulation within the dryer. Over time, the drive motor can wear out or fail due to mechanical stress, electrical issues, or general wear from regular use. Causes of a bad drive motor include motor burnout, worn bearings, or issues with the electrical connections.
DC62-30314V Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with Samsung & Kenmore Washers
Product Description
Restore proper water filling and dependable washer performance with the DC62-30314V Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved inlet valve precisely controls hot and cold water flow into the washer during fill cycles. A failing water valve can cause no-fill issues, slow filling, error codes, or poor wash results. Installing this Genuine OEM valve ensures exact fit, correct water pressure, and long-lasting reliability.
Replaces Part Numbers
DC62-30314V, PD00054103, EAP11719664, AP5966634, 3992464, PS11719664.
Compatibility
This Genuine OEM washer water inlet valve fits select Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-manufactured) washers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Samsung WF45R6100AW, WF42H5000AWKenmore 592.49045, 592.49303
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🧩 Genuine OEM Replacement – Factory-certified for exact fit and performance
💧 Accurate Water Flow Control – Ensures proper filling during wash cycles
🔧 Durable Solenoid Design – Built for consistent operation and long service life
🛠️ Direct-Fit Installation – No modifications required
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves no-fill, slow fill, error codes, or weak water flow
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DC62-30314V
Component Type: Washer Water Inlet Valve
Voltage: 120V AC
Water Connections: Hot & Cold
Material: OEM-grade reinforced plastic with metal solenoids
Mounting: Rear cabinet direct-fit
Compliance: Genuine OEM certified
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before servicing.
Steps:
Disconnect power and turn off water supply.
Remove the rear access panel.
Disconnect inlet hoses and wiring harness.
Remove mounting screws and take out the old valve.
Install the new DC62-30314V valve and secure it.
Reconnect hoses and wiring, restore water and power, and test for leaks.
⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes
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🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders
⚙️ Genuine OEM Replacement Part
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore proper washer filling and reliable performance — Add to Cart Now for a factory-quality repair!
W10775188 Washer Genuine OEM Washplate
Replaces Part Numbers: W10775188, 4282681, W10698538, W10834891, AP5959417, PS11699797.
W10775188 Washer Washplate – Genuine OEM Part
Restore optimal cleaning power with the W10775188 Washer Washplate. This Genuine OEM part replaces a worn or damaged washplate to ensure efficient agitation and even cleaning performance.
Key Features:
✅ Genuine OEM Part – built to factory specs
🔁 Replaces: 4282681, W10698538, W10834891, AP5959417, PS11699797
🌀 Provides powerful agitation for deep cleaning
🛠️ Fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana top-load washers
🧰 Easy to install – includes center bolt
⚠️ Always unplug your washer before servicing. Need help with compatibility? Contact us!
📦 Part Number: W10775188
WP389140 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Drive Block
The WP389140 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM drive block for large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive top-load washers. This is a purely mechanical coupling component: it connects the inner spin basket to the transmission's drive shaft, so that when the transmission turns, the basket turns with it. Without a properly seated drive block, the connection between the motor's rotational power and the basket is lost or unreliable, even though every electrical component in the washer may be working perfectly.
Measuring approximately 2-5/16" high, this drive block is a wear component subject to gradual mechanical stress every time the washer agitates or spins. A worn or failed drive block produces a distinctive set of symptoms: the basket may spin freely without properly engaging, the washer may spin slowly and leave clothes excessively wet, or you may hear a loud knocking or banging noise during operation as the connection between the basket and drive shaft becomes loose or worn. It directly replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, and 2858.
Quick Answer
The WP389140 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Drive Block fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis top-load washers with a basket that spins freely without engaging, slow spinning that leaves clothes excessively wet, or loud knocking/banging noise during operation. Approximately 2-5/16" high. For large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive washers. Replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, 2858. This repair typically requires a spanner wrench to remove a large securing nut — budget for the right tool before starting.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer basket spins freely without properly engaging during the wash or spin cycle
Washer spins slowly, leaving clothes excessively wet at the end of a cycle
Loud knocking or banging noise during operation
Washer shakes or moves noticeably during spin
Basket continues spinning after the cycle should have stopped
Inefficient wash and spin cycles overall due to poor basket engagement
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer drive block directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP389140, 389140, 357782, 97360, PD00002363, EAP11741977, WP389140VP, AP6008836, AWP47839, J27-936, PS11741977.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drive block is compatible with select Whirlpool large-capacity top-load washers (belt-drive and direct-drive), and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis washers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as:
NTW4516FW, NTW4516FW3, NTW4516FW4
WTW4816FW2, WTW4816FW3
RTW4516FW, NTW4605EW, WTW4800BQ
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since Whirlpool uses different drive block designs across its washer lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified fit for a secure basket-to-transmission connection
Connects the inner spin basket to the transmission's drive shaft
Resolves "basket spins freely," "slow spin, clothes too wet," and "loud knocking noise" symptoms caused by drive block wear
Approximately 2-5/16" high
Designed for large-capacity belt-drive and direct-drive washer platforms
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original fit onto the spin tube notches
Replaces 389140, AP6008836, 357782, 97360, J27-936, PS11741977, PS349903, AP2905773, WH40X180, WP389140VP, LP16171, and 2858
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, and Inglis washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WP389140
Part Type
Washer Drive Block
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Large-Capacity Belt-Drive and Direct-Drive Top-Load Washers
Height
Approx. 2-5/16 in.
Function
Connects the inner spin basket to the transmission drive shaft
Related Component
Drive cam (commonly inspected/replaced during the same repair)
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — spanner wrench and washer disassembly required
Quantity
1 drive block
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Estate, Inglis
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Spanner Wrench Required Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the washer's top and control console per your model's service instructions to access the inner tub assembly. Remove the agitator and any hardware securing the basket, which typically includes a large center nut — a spanner wrench is required to remove this nut, along with a socket and long extension for other fasteners; expect to remove a fair number of components to fully access the drive block. Lift the wash basket out to expose the drive block, which sits on the spin tube near the center of the transmission. Photograph the orientation of the old drive block and any surrounding hardware before removing it. Lift the old drive block free, and while it's accessible, inspect the drive cam nearby for wear as well, since it's commonly replaced at the same time. Slide the new WP389140 drive block into position, making sure it seats fully onto the spin tube notches, and reassemble the basket, hardware, agitator, console, and top panel in reverse order. Restore water and power, then run a test cycle through both wash and spin to confirm the basket engages properly with no unusual noise. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, spanner wrench, socket set with long extension, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer basket spins freely and doesn't seem connected to anything. Is this the drive block?
Yes, this is the classic symptom of a failed drive block. Since this component is the mechanical link between the transmission's drive shaft and the inner spin basket, once it wears out or fails, the basket can spin independently without properly engaging, even though the motor and transmission are working normally.
Do I really need a spanner wrench for this repair?
Yes, on most models. Accessing the drive block requires removing a large nut that secures the basket assembly, and this nut is specifically designed to be removed with a spanner wrench rather than a standard socket. Trying to remove it without the correct tool risks damaging the nut or the surrounding components, so it's worth having one on hand before you start.
Should I replace the drive cam at the same time?
It's worth inspecting while you have the assembly open, since the drive cam sits in the same area and is commonly replaced alongside the drive block when a technician is already this far into the repair. If it shows visible wear, replacing both at once saves you from repeating this same teardown again soon after.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original dimensions and fit of the drive block originally installed in your washer.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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471823492CM Blue Tip Diaphragm for Wascomat Water Valve
Diaphragm with guide.
Fits Wascomat water valves.
Also replaces 823492.
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
WH22X37840 Genuine OEM GE Washer Main Control Board
The WH22X37840 is a genuine GE OEM main control board for GE and Profile UltraFresh front-load washers. This board is the washer's central processor — it reads every button press and cycle selection, drives the motor and inverter, opens and closes the water valves, runs the drain pump, and continuously monitors water level through an integrated water pressure switch built into the board itself. Because so many functions route through this single board, a failing control board can produce almost any symptom: a washer that won't power on, won't start a cycle, stalls partway through, fails to fill or drain, or runs a cycle that doesn't match what was selected on the display.
This board revises and supersedes WH22X36637, and also replaces WH22X29532, WH22X30898, WH22X32057, WH22X32457, WH22X34659, WH22X35517, WH22X36857, and WH22X37839. As a genuine OEM part, the WH22X37840 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Important: this board is not universal across GE's front-load lineup. It must be matched to your specific model and, after installation, programmed with the correct "personality" code for your washer before it will operate properly.
Quick Answer
The WH22X37840 Genuine OEM GE Washer Main Control Board fixes GE and Profile UltraFresh front-load washers that won't power on, won't start, stall mid-cycle, fail to fill or drain, run the wrong cycle, or have an unresponsive control panel. Genuine OEM, includes an integrated water pressure switch. Revises WH22X36637; also replaces WH22X29532, WH22X30898, WH22X32057, WH22X32457, WH22X34659, WH22X35517, WH22X36857, WH22X37839. Fits GFW650S, GFW850S, PFW870S, and PFW950S platforms. Requires programming a model-specific "personality" code after install, and the drain pump must be confirmed good before installing — a failed pump can damage a new board.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't power on or the display stays completely dark
Washer won't start a cycle even though buttons respond and lights come on
Cycle stalls or stops partway through with no error explanation
Washer won't fill with water, or fills but never advances to wash
Washer won't drain or won't spin at the end of a cycle
Control panel unresponsive — button presses do nothing, or the wrong cycle runs
Display shows scrambled characters, flashing LEDs, or a persistent error code
Washer runs erratically — random starts, stops, or cycle changes on its own
Board that failed after repeated cycles where the drain pump was struggling
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer main control board directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH22X37840, WH22X36637, WH22X35517, WH22X34659, WH22X30898, WH22X29532, WH22X32057, WH22X32457, WH22X36857, WH22X37839, AP7245609, AGE26864, PD00089582, PS17874601.
WH22X36637 was the immediately preceding number that GE revised to WH22X37840. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This main control board is compatible with select GE and Profile UltraFresh front-load washers, including:
GE front-load washers — GFW650S series
GE front-load washers — GFW850S series
GE Profile front-load washers — PFW870S series
GE Profile front-load washers — PFW950S series
Verified model numbers include: GFW650SPN0SN, GFW650SPN1SN, GFW650SPN3SN, GFW650SPN4SN, GFW650SSN4WW, and PFW955SPW0DS.
Note: This board only works for the specific GE and Profile models listed above and must be programmed with the correct personality code for your washer after installation. It is NOT a universal front-load control board. If your model number is not listed above, ordering this board is likely to result in a board that installs but never runs correctly. Always verify your full model number before ordering, and contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified firmware, relay switching, and sensor interface
Functions as the washer's central processor, coordinating the motor, inverter, water valves, and drain pump
Includes an integrated water pressure switch — not available or serviceable as a separate part
Resolves "won't power on," "won't start," "stalls mid-cycle," "won't fill or drain," and "unresponsive control panel" symptoms caused by control board failure
Revises and directly replaces WH22X36637 and 7 additional legacy board numbers
Direct drop-in replacement for the original board mounting and harness connectors
Fits GFW650S, GFW850S, PFW870S, and PFW950S GE and Profile UltraFresh platforms
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH22X37840
Part Type
Washer Main Control Board (Electronic Control Module)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE / GE Profile
Application
GE and Profile UltraFresh Front-Load Washers
Integrated Components
Water pressure switch (built into board, not separately serviceable)
Programming Required
Yes — model-specific personality code must be set after installation
Supersedes
WH22X36637
Repair Difficulty
Medium — top panel removal and electrical connections required
Quantity
1 control board
Compatible Models
GFW650S, GFW850S, PFW870S, PFW950S series
Installation Notes
⚠️ 240V Circuit — Unplug Washer Before Starting. Verify Drain Pump First. Board Requires Programming. Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning; front-load washers on this platform run on a 120V/240V circuit and internal components can retain a charge briefly after power is removed. Before replacing the board, confirm the drain pump is working correctly. A drain pump that has been struggling, clogged, or intermittently failing can send the control board erratic electrical feedback that damages a brand-new board the same way it damaged the old one — replacing the board alone, without checking the pump, is one of the most common reasons a "new" board fails again within days. Access is typically through the top panel: remove the rear top screws and slide the panel back, then locate the control board housing (commonly behind the top-front console or in a housing near the top of the cabinet, depending on model). Photograph all harness connections before disconnecting anything — this board has numerous connectors and getting even one out of place will cause a no-start or miswired symptom. Ground yourself before handling the board to avoid static damage to its electronics. Remove the mounting screws, disconnect each harness connector, and lift the old board free. Install the new WH22X37840 in the same orientation, reconnect every harness connector exactly as photographed, and secure the mounting screws. Before closing the washer back up, you must program the board with the personality code specific to your model. This is done through a button sequence on the control panel — press and release Start repeatedly until the display shows the personality ID number for your model, then confirm to save it; the control will return to an idle state once accepted. GE's official instructions (publication 99-3000289) detail the exact sequence and a Field Service Mode test if the LEDs don't flash correctly after programming — follow those instructions rather than guessing at the code, since an incorrect personality setting will cause the washer to behave unpredictably. Once programmed, reassemble the top panel, restore power, and run a full test cycle to confirm normal fill, wash, drain, and spin behavior. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, anti-static wrist strap (recommended), and access to GE's personality programming instructions for your model.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I really need to program the board after installing it?
Yes — this is not optional. The WH22X37840 is shared across several GE and Profile washer models, and it needs to be told which specific model it's installed in through a "personality" code before it will run correctly. Skipping this step, or entering the wrong code, will leave the washer behaving unpredictably even though the board itself is functioning normally. GE provides official programming instructions (publication 99-3000289) with the button sequence for your model — follow those closely rather than guessing.
Why does the listing say to check the drain pump before installing this board?
Because on this platform, a failing or clogged drain pump can feed electrical strain back into the control board that damages it over time — the same failure that likely killed your original board. If you install a new board without addressing a bad drain pump, there's a real risk of burning out the replacement as well. Before installing, run the pump through a diagnostic or physically inspect it for clogs, a seized impeller, or electrical failure, and address any issues found there first.
My washer won't power on at all. Is this the right part?
It's a strong candidate, but rule out the obvious first: confirm the outlet has power, check that the washer's power cord and connection are intact, and check the home's circuit breaker or a blown fuse. If those are all fine and the washer still shows zero signs of life — no lights, no display, no response to any button — the main control board has very likely failed and this board is the correct replacement.
What's the difference between WH22X37840 and WH22X36637?
They are the same board across production revisions. WH22X36637 was the prior GE part number and WH22X37840 is the current number that supersedes it. If your washer's parts diagram shows WH22X36637 or any of the older numbers (WH22X29532, WH22X30898, WH22X32057, WH22X32457, WH22X34659, WH22X35517), this listing is the correct replacement — it installs and programs the same way.
Does this board include the water pressure switch?
Yes. The water pressure switch that monitors fill level is integrated directly into this control board and is not available as a separate part per GE. If your washer's issue turns out to be water-level detection specifically — overfilling, underfilling, or an error related to water level — this board is the correct and only OEM fix, since the pressure switch cannot be replaced on its own.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It carries the same firmware, relay switching, integrated water pressure switch, and harness layout as the control board originally installed in your washer, and it is the officially supported replacement for your model once the correct personality code is programmed.
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280146 Washer Motor Rotor
Product Condition:
Genuine OEM
New / Old Stock
Replaces Part Numbers: 280146, 1175771, 8565177, AH993018, EA993018, AP3882831, PS993018.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
XPARTCO AJU75152601 Washer Water Inlet Valve Replaces 5221EA1008F, AJU73213301
The XPARTCO AJU75152601 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve assembly compatible with select LG and Kenmore top-load washers in the WT1, WT4, WT5, WT6, and WT7 series. This is a multi-port valve assembly that controls water flow from the household supply lines into the washer tub and dispenser compartments. The assembly contains multiple solenoid-operated valve ports: hot water inlet, cold water inlet, bleach dispenser valve, fabric softener dispenser valve, and jet spray valve — all integrated into a single assembly that connects to the washer's control board via wiring harnesses.
When the water inlet valve fails — or when one individual port fails — the washer may not fill at all, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong temperature, overfill, fail to dispense bleach or fabric softener, or leak from the valve body. The valve solenoids operate at 12V DC. This kit includes the complete valve assembly and two AGM73269501 inlet screens. It directly replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AGF76283896, AP6308239, TAW35618287, AH3527446, AJU75152603, EA3527446, PS3527446, and PS12374721. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO AJU75152601 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes LG and Kenmore top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, won't dispense bleach or fabric softener, overfill, or leak from the valve. Multi-port assembly with hot, cold, bleach, fabric softener, and jet spray valves. 12V DC solenoids. Includes 2 AGM73269501 inlet screens. Compatible with LG WT1xxx–WT7xxx and Kenmore 796-series. Replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AP6308239, TAW35618287, PS12374721.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water at all when a cycle is started
Washer filling very slowly — one or more valve ports partially blocked or failing
Washer filling with only hot or only cold water — one temperature solenoid has failed
Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open
Bleach dispenser not dispensing during the wash cycle
Fabric softener not dispensing at the correct rinse cycle point
Jet spray not activating during fill
Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve port not closing completely
Water leaking from the valve body or connection points at the back of the washer
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
5221EA1008F, AJU73213301, AJU75152601, AH3527446, AJU75152603, EA3527446, PS3527446, ALG53778, AP6308239, PD00042814, PS12374721, TAW35618287.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select LG and Kenmore top-load washers from the following series:
LG top-load washers — WT1 series (WT1101CW, WT1201CW, WT1201CV, WT1301CW, WT1501CW, WT1701CW, WT1701CV, WT1801HVA, WT1801HWA and related models)
LG top-load washers — WT4 series (WT4801CW, WT4870CW, WT4970CW and related models)
LG top-load washers — WT5 series (WT5001CW, WT5070CW, WT5101HV, WT5101HW, WT5170HV, WT5270CW, WT5480CW, WT5680HVA, WT5680HWA and related models)
LG top-load washers — WT6 series (select models)
LG top-load washers — WT7 series (WT7200CW, WT7200CV, WT7500CW, WT7600HKA and related models)
Kenmore / Sears top-load washers — 796-series (79631512210, 79631512211, 79631522211, 79631502210, 79631502211 and related models)
Note: Always verify your exact model number before ordering. Newer LG WT7100/WT7150/WT7400/WT7405 series models use the AJU75152602 valve instead. Contact our support team with your model number to confirm the correct valve for your washer.
Key Features
Multi-port valve assembly — controls hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser, and jet spray from a single replaceable assembly
12V DC solenoid operation — responds to signals from the washer's control board to deliver the correct water to each compartment
Resolves fill, dispenser, overfill, and drip-when-off symptoms in a single replacement
Kit includes complete valve assembly and 2x AGM73269501 replacement inlet screens
ABS plastic and stainless steel construction — durable and resistant to mineral buildup
Replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AP6308239, TAW35618287, and over 10 additional cross-reference numbers
Compatible with LG WT1xxx through WT7xxx and Kenmore 796-series top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
AJU75152601
Also Replaces
AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F (current supersession)
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (Multi-Port)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
LG and Kenmore Top-Load Washers
Valve Ports
Hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser, jet spray
Solenoid Voltage
12V DC
Material
ABS plastic / Stainless steel
Kit Includes
Valve assembly + 2x AGM73269501 inlet screens
Compatible Series
LG WT1xxx, WT4xxx, WT5xxx, WT6xxx, WT7xxx; Kenmore 796-series
Compatible Brands
LG, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve assembly is mounted on the upper rear of the washer — the external supply hoses connect to the hot and cold inlet ports. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Before installing, install the new inlet screens (AGM73269501) included in the kit into the hot and cold inlet ports of the new valve. Disconnect the old valve's external supply hoses, internal hoses, and wire harness connectors. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the old valve. Install the new AJU75152601 valve, reconnect all hoses and wire harnesses in the same positions as documented in your photos, and secure the mounting screws. Reconnect the external supply hoses, restore water supply and power, and run a fill cycle to verify proper filling, confirm all dispenser ports activate at the correct cycle points, and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between AJU75152601, AJU73213301, and 5221EA1008F?
These are all part numbers for the same LG washer water inlet valve assembly used across different production runs. 5221EA1008F was the original part number, AJU73213301 was an updated version, and AJU75152601 is the current part number. All three are interchangeable. If your washer's documentation, parts diagram, or old valve label shows any of these numbers, this replacement is the correct current part to order.
My washer won't dispense fabric softener — is this the right part?
Yes — the fabric softener dispenser solenoid is one of the ports integrated into the AJU75152601 valve assembly. When the fabric softener dispenser fails to activate at the right point in the rinse cycle, it is almost always because the solenoid valve controlling that port has failed. Since it is part of the same multi-port valve assembly, replacing the AJU75152601 resolves fabric softener, bleach, and jet spray dispenser issues in the same repair. Individual ports cannot be replaced — the complete assembly must be replaced when any one port fails.
What are the AGM73269501 inlet screens included in the kit?
The AGM73269501 screens are small mesh filters that install inside the hot and cold water inlet ports of the valve. They trap mineral deposits and debris from the household water supply before they can reach the valve seats and solenoid mechanisms. The kit includes two screens — one for the hot inlet and one for the cold inlet. Installing these fresh screens with the new valve helps extend valve life, especially in areas with hard water. If the old valve failed due to mineral clogging rather than solenoid failure, cleaning the supply hoses before installation is also recommended.
How do I know if the water inlet valve has failed vs. the control board?
You can test the valve solenoids with a multimeter. Disconnect the harness from a solenoid coil and probe both terminals — a working solenoid coil shows a resistance reading (typically 200–500 ohms); an open circuit confirms the solenoid has failed. If all solenoid coils test good but the valve still does not operate, the control board may not be sending the correct 12V DC signal to the solenoids — this requires checking voltage at the solenoid connectors with the washer powered and in a fill cycle, which is a more advanced diagnostic step.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from ABS plastic and stainless steel to match the port configuration, solenoid specifications, and dimensions of the original AJU75152601 water inlet valve assembly.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO W11688995 (OE) Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The XPARTCO W11688995 (OE — Original Equipment specification) is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve built to OEM specifications, designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688995 (OE) Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Aftermarket Original Equipment (OE) — built to OEM specs. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault
LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow
Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill
Replaces Part Numbers
This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket Original Equipment (OE) replacement — built to OEM specifications for direct fit and performance
Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped
Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11688995
Designation
OE (Original Equipment specification)
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Blue / White
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault)
Often Paired With
Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers?
Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes.
My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve?
Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve.
What does "OE" mean and how is this different from an OEM Whirlpool part?
"OE" stands for Original Equipment — meaning this is an aftermarket replacement part manufactured to original equipment specifications. It is engineered as a direct-fit substitute matching the dimensions, electrical specifications, and function of the original Whirlpool W11688995. It is not a genuine Whirlpool-branded OEM part, but is built to the same quality standards and performs identically when installed in compatible washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
