Search results for "Contactor"

V-156-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Contact Type: SPDT 1NO 1NC Actuator Type: 1.1" Long Hinge Roller Lever Rating: 15A 125 250VAC Lever Length: 1.1" Long Hinge Roller Lever Rating: 15A,1/2HP, 125 250VAC; 0.6A,125VDC; 0.3A, 250VDC   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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XPARTCO W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor The XPARTCO W10613606 is an aftermarket replacement compressor start relay and capacitor assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Admiral, Crosley, Dacor, Hardwick, Inglis, Litton, and Magic Chef refrigerators. The start relay is a small but critical electrical component that plugs directly onto the compressor terminals and provides the initial power surge needed to start the compressor motor. Once the compressor reaches operating speed, the relay drops out — leaving the compressor to run on its own. The capacitor (rated 15µF ±5%, 250VAC) works alongside the relay to store and release the burst of electrical energy needed on startup. When the start relay fails, the compressor cannot start — causing the refrigerator to stop cooling entirely. A failed relay typically produces a clicking sound every few minutes as the compressor tries and fails to start, followed by a short rest, then another attempt. This kit includes both the start relay and the CBB61 capacitor. It directly replaces W10416065, 8208290, 8208368, C8931605, 67003186, 67005560, 67005561, 67005562, 67003764, 8171210, and several additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in under 15 minutes — no tools required in most cases. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor fixes refrigerators that are not cooling, are too warm, or are making a repeated clicking sound every few minutes as the compressor tries to start. Plugs directly onto the compressor terminals. Kit includes start relay and 15µF 250VAC CBB61 capacitor. Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and more. Replaces W10416065, 8208290, C8931605, 67005560, and more. No tools required — installs in under 15 minutes. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator not cooling — compressor not running Freezer section too warm or not freezing Both refrigerator and freezer compartments gradually warming up Repeated clicking sound every 2–5 minutes from behind or underneath the refrigerator Compressor hums briefly then shuts off without reaching operating temperature Refrigerator runs but cannot maintain set temperature Shaking the start relay reveals a rattling sound inside — confirms internal failure Replaces Part Numbers This start relay and capacitor kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10613606, 67005560, 3023300, 67003186, 67003764, 67005561, 67005562, W10416065, 8171210, 8208290, 8208368, W10244032, 302TFBYY, SSP14R302TFR,  AWP41206, C8931605, PD00004905, EAP8746522, AP5787784, PS8746522. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This start relay and capacitor is compatible with select refrigerators from the following brands: Whirlpool refrigerators (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer) Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models) Maytag refrigerators KitchenAid refrigerators Amana refrigerators Jenn-Air refrigerators Admiral refrigerators Crosley refrigerators Dacor refrigerators Hardwick refrigerators Inglis refrigerators Litton refrigerators Magic Chef refrigerators Important: Always verify your refrigerator's model number and compare the old relay's shape and terminal configuration to the new part before installing. Some models may require trimming the wire connector tabs for a proper fit. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Key Features Provides the initial electrical surge needed to start the compressor motor — without it, the compressor cannot run and the refrigerator cannot cool Kit includes both the start relay and the CBB61 run capacitor (15µF ±5%, 250VAC) — everything needed in one package Plugs directly onto the compressor terminals — no wiring or soldering required in most cases Quick rattle test — shake the old relay; if it rattles, the internal contacts have failed and it needs replacement Replaces W10416065, 8208290, C8931605, and over a dozen additional cross-reference part numbers Compatible with 13 major appliance brands on the Whirlpool platform Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Fast DIY repair — installs in under 15 minutes, no tools required in most cases Product Specifications Part Number W10613606 Part Type Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor Kit Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Refrigerator Compressor (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer) Capacitor Type CBB61 Run Capacitor Capacitor Rating 15µF ±5%, 250VAC Kit Includes 1x Start relay, 1x CBB61 capacitor Installation Plug-in — no tools required in most cases Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Admiral, Crosley, Dacor, Hardwick, Inglis, Litton, Magic Chef Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator from the power outlet before beginning. Move the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear or lower back panel. Remove the rear access panel by unscrewing the retaining screws to expose the compressor. The compressor is a large black dome-shaped component — the start relay and capacitor assembly plugs onto the side terminals. Grip the old relay firmly and pull it straight off the compressor pins. Shake it — if it rattles, the internal contacts have failed and replacement is confirmed. Compare the old relay to the new W10613606 to confirm the terminal layout matches. Align the new relay with the compressor pins and press it firmly on. Reinstall the access panel, restore power, and listen for the compressor to start and run normally within a few minutes. Note: Some models may require trimming the wire connector tabs or reversing the connector orientation for a proper fit — do not force the connection. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver (for panel access only). Frequently Asked Questions What does the compressor start relay do? The start relay plugs onto the compressor terminals and provides the brief but powerful surge of electrical current needed to start the compressor motor from a standstill. Once the compressor reaches operating speed — usually within a second or two — the relay drops out and the compressor runs on its own. Without a working start relay, the compressor cannot start at all, and the refrigerator stops cooling. The capacitor works alongside the relay to store and deliver the extra energy needed on startup. How do I know if my start relay has failed? The most reliable quick test is the rattle test: unplug the refrigerator, pull the start relay off the compressor, and shake it near your ear. A working relay is silent. A failed relay will rattle — the internal contacts have broken free and are loose inside the casing. Another sign is a repeated clicking sound every 2–5 minutes from the back of the refrigerator, where the compressor attempts to start, fails, trips the overload protector, rests, and tries again. If the fridge is warm and you hear clicking, check the relay first. What is the difference between the start relay and the capacitor? The start relay is the switching device that connects and disconnects the start winding of the compressor motor during startup. The capacitor stores a charge and releases it during startup to give the motor the additional torque it needs to get moving under load. Together they work as a startup system for the compressor. This kit includes both — replacing both at the same time ensures the complete startup circuit is fresh and reliable. My fridge is still not cooling after replacing the start relay — what else could it be? If replacing the start relay does not restore cooling, other possible causes include a failed compressor (the compressor runs but no longer builds pressure), a refrigerant leak in the sealed system, a failed start capacitor (if not replaced along with the relay), a bad overload protector, or a faulty main control board. Listen carefully after installing the new relay — if the compressor now starts and runs but the fridge still doesn't cool after several hours, a sealed system issue or refrigerant problem is likely and will require a certified technician. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and terminal configuration of the original W10613606 start relay and capacitor assembly. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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V-153-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Contact Type: SPDT 1NO 1NC Actuator Type: Long Straight 2" Hinge Lever Rating: 15A 125 250VAC Lever Length: 2" Rating: 15A,1/2HP, 125 250VAC; 0.6A,125VDC; 0.3A, 250VDC   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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XPARTCO HVAC Capacitor Contractor Pack — 18-Piece Assortment Kit (Dual + Single Run) The XPARTCO HVAC Capacitor Contractor Pack bundles the seven most commonly needed dual run capacitor ratings, plus two single run capacitor ratings, into a single 18-piece kit, so a technician can carry one box instead of restocking capacitors between jobs. Each dual run capacitor combines two capacitors into one round, three-terminal can — one rated for the compressor, one for the condenser fan motor — the standard design used across the vast majority of residential and light commercial split systems, window units, and heat pumps. The single run capacitors are 2-terminal units sized for one motor circuit, commonly used on standalone condenser fan motors, pool pumps, and other single-phase motor equipment. The mix in this kit is weighted toward the ratings that fail most often in the field: 35/5, 40/5, and 45/5 MFD capacitors cover the majority of residential 1.5–3.5 ton systems and are included in higher quantities, while 50/5, 60/5, 70/5, and 80/5 MFD round out coverage for larger residential and light commercial compressors. All fourteen capacitors are rated 450VAC, so each one is a safe upgrade replacement regardless of whether the original equipment was speced at 370V, 440V, or 450V. Quick Answer The XPARTCO HVAC Capacitor Contractor Pack is an 18-piece assortment covering the seven dual run capacitor ratings most commonly replaced on residential and light commercial AC systems and heat pumps, plus two single run capacitor ratings for fan motors and similar equipment: 35/5 (×2), 40/5 (×4), 45/5 (×4), 50/5 (×1), 60/5 (×1), 70/5 (×1), 80/5 (×1), single-run 5 (×2), and single-run 7.5 (×2) MFD, all rated 450VAC, round. Built for technicians who want to stock a truck once instead of reordering capacitors mid-week. Capacitors store a dangerous electrical charge even after power is disconnected — always discharge before handling. What's In The Kit Capacitor Rating Qty Typical Application 35/5 MFD, 450V, Round 2 Smaller residential split systems, window/PTAC units 40/5 MFD, 450V, Round 4 Common residential 2–2.5 ton systems — high-frequency replacement size 45/5 MFD, 450V, Round 4 Common residential 2.5–3 ton systems — high-frequency replacement size 50/5 MFD, 450V, Round 1 Mid-size residential systems, 3–3.5 ton 60/5 MFD, 450V, Round 1 Larger residential systems, 3.5–4 ton 70/5 MFD, 450V, Round 1 Larger residential/light commercial systems, 4–5 ton 80/5 MFD, 450V, Round 1 Larger compressors and light commercial equipment 5 MFD, 450V, Round (Single Run) 2 Standalone condenser fan motors, pool pumps, small single-phase motors 7.5 MFD, 450V, Round (Single Run) 2 Standalone condenser fan motors, pool pumps, small single-phase motors Common Problems This Kit Solves Outdoor AC unit hums but the compressor won't start Condenser fan won't spin, or spins slowly and needs a manual push to get going System trips the breaker shortly after starting AC blows warm air because the compressor isn't running Repeated clicking sound from the contactor as it tries and fails to start the motor Capacitor can visibly bulging, domed on top, or leaking oily residue Needing a specific capacitor rating on the spot without a return trip to the supply house Compatibility This kit's capacitors are universal replacements compatible with central air conditioners, heat pumps, and condensing units across all major HVAC brands, wherever the original capacitor's MFD rating matches one included in this kit and its voltage rating is 450V or lower (370V and 440V equipment included, since a higher voltage rating is always a safe upgrade). Note: The MFD (microfarad) rating must match the original capacitor exactly on both the compressor and fan sides — do not substitute a different MFD value. If a job calls for a rating not included in this kit (such as a 25/5, 30/5, or 55/5), each individual dual run capacitor rating is also available separately in our HVAC capacitor line. Contact our support team if you'd like help confirming which rating a specific job needs. Key Features 18-piece assortment covering the 7 most commonly replaced dual run ratings plus 2 single run ratings Quantities weighted toward the highest-frequency replacement sizes (35/5, 40/5, 45/5) All capacitors rated 450VAC — a safe upgrade for equipment originally speced at 370V or 440V Round can construction — 3-terminal (C, Herm, Fan) dual run capacitors and 2-terminal single run capacitors Polypropylene film construction; safety approved CQC, VDE, TÜV, CL; built to GB/T 3667 and EN 60252 standards Operating temperature range -40°C to 70°C (-40°F to +158°F) Eliminates truck-stock gaps — one kit replaces reordering single capacitors between jobs Each rating also available individually for restocking a single value Kit Specifications Kit Contents 18 capacitors — 14 dual run across 7 ratings + 4 single run across 2 ratings (see table above) Capacitor Types Dual Run (Compressor + Fan) and Single Run Condition New — Universal Replacement Parts Voltage Rating (all pieces) 450VAC Shape Round Terminals 3 per dual run capacitor / 2 per single run capacitor (1/4" quick-connect) Frequency 50/60 Hz Tolerance ±5% Construction Type Polypropylene film capacitor Operating Temperature Range -40°C to 70°C (-40°F to +158°F) Safety Approvals CQC, VDE, TÜV, CL Approval Standard GB/T 3667, EN 60252 Application Central Air Conditioners, Heat Pumps, Condensing Units Compatible Brands Universal — all major HVAC brands Installation Notes ⚠️ Danger — Capacitors Store A Dangerous Electrical Charge Shut off power to the outdoor unit at the disconnect box and at the breaker before beginning any capacitor replacement. A capacitor stores an electrical charge even after power has been disconnected, and that charge can deliver a serious or fatal shock. Before touching any terminal, discharge the capacitor fully: on a dual run capacitor, short each pair of terminals together (C-to-Fan, C-to-Herm, and Fan-to-Herm); on a single run capacitor, short the two terminals together. Use an insulated-handle screwdriver, or a proper capacitor discharge tool with a resistor. Never short the terminals with a bare metal tool held with your bare hand. ⚠️ Match The Rating Before Installing — Photograph Wiring First Confirm the failed capacitor's MFD rating on both the compressor and fan sides, and select the matching piece from this kit — the rating printed on the old capacitor's can is the reference, not the equipment's tonnage. Photograph the wiring on the old capacitor's terminals before disconnecting anything; terminals are typically labeled C (Common), Herm or Comp (compressor), and Fan. Remove the mounting strap holding the old capacitor, disconnect each wire, and install the replacement from this kit in the same mounting position, reconnecting each wire to the matching terminal. Restore power and confirm the compressor and fan both start promptly and run smoothly. Tools needed: insulated-handle screwdriver or capacitor discharge tool, nut driver, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Why are 35/5, 40/5, and 45/5 included in higher quantities than the others? These three ratings cover the size range used on the largest share of residential split systems in the field, so they're the ratings most likely to come up repeatedly across a week of service calls. The larger ratings (50/5 through 80/5) still come up regularly but less often, which is why the kit includes one of each rather than duplicates. What if a job needs a rating that isn't in this kit, like 25/5 or 55/5? Every rating in this kit — both dual run and single run — is also sold individually, so you can pick up less common values as needed without buying another full kit. Contact our support team if you want help identifying which individual rating a specific job calls for. Can I use a 450V capacitor from this kit to replace an original 370V or 440V capacitor? Yes. Voltage rating is a ceiling, not an exact match requirement — a capacitor rated for a higher voltage than the original works safely and often lasts longer under the same electrical stress. What you can't do is go the other direction, so every capacitor in this kit being 450V means it's a safe fit anywhere the original was rated 370V, 440V, or 450V. Does the MFD rating need to match exactly, or is there some tolerance? Match the rating on both the compressor and fan side as closely as possible to the original — these capacitors carry a ±5% manufacturing tolerance, but that's not the same as intentionally substituting a different rated value. Always select the kit piece whose printed MFD rating matches what was on the failed capacitor. Is this a genuine OEM kit? This is a universal replacement kit rather than a brand-specific OEM product. Because dual run capacitors are a standardized component defined by their electrical specifications rather than their manufacturer, each capacitor in this kit is a correct replacement for any unit's original capacitor sharing the same rating — regardless of which HVAC brand originally installed it. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Replacement Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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V-154-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Contact Type: SPDT 1NO 1NC Actuator Type: 1-1/8" Curved Tip Lever Rating: 15A 125 250VAC Lever Length: 1-1/8" Curved Tip Lever Rating: 15A,1/2HP, 125 250VAC; 0.6A,125VDC; 0.3A, 250VDC   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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12002782 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Overload Relay Kit Replaces Part Numbers: 12002782, 1194680, 61005518, AH2004057, EA2004057, OEM12028982, AP4009659, PS2004057. Description: This is a Genuine OEM compressor overload and relay kit for Specific Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore Refrigerator models. Kit was recently redesigned by manufacturer.   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084 The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle. Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands: Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more) Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series) KitchenAid top-load washers (select models) Roper top-load washers (select models) Estate top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef top-load washers (select models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Admiral top-load washers (select models) Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61 Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 8318084 OEM Part Number WP8318084 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 125–250V Frequency 50–60 Hz Motor Rating 1/2 HP Dimensions 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H Terminals 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire Color Gray / White Material Plastic housing Location Under the control panel, top rear left corner Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem? Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated. Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell? This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician. What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084? These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch. Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer? No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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V-152-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Contact Type: SPDT 1NO 1NC Actuator Type: Long Straight 1" Hinge Lever Rating: 15A 125 250VAC Lever Length: 1" Rating: 15A,1/2HP, 125 250VAC; 0.6A,125VDC; 0.3A, 250VDC   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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XP61005518 Refrigerator Relay Fits Specific refrigerator Models Replaces Part Numbers: 12002782, 1194680, 61005518, AH2004057, EA2004057, OEM12028982, AP4009659, PS2004057. Description: This is a Replacement compressor overload and relay kit for Specific Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore Refrigerator models. Kit was recently redesigned by manufacturer.   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part. California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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V-151-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Contact Type: SPDT 1NO 1NC Actuator Type: Short Hinge Lever Rating: 15A 125 250VAC Lever Length: 15mm / 0.6" Rating: 15A,1/2HP, 125 250VAC; 0.6A,125VDC; 0.3A, 250VDC   IMPORTANT! You should call ahead to confirm availability of an item before going to the store. store's actual inventory can change from minute to minute. Calling the store will allow you to confirm that the item is still available. Some items may not be immediately available for pickup at your local store. Prices and availability may differ from web prices at local pickup location.

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WB24X25013 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch Replaces WB24X47186. The WB24X25013 is a genuine GE OEM infinite control switch for a dual (bridge) surface element on GE, Hotpoint, and select Kenmore electric ranges — the kind of burner with an inner coil and an outer coil that can be run together for a large pot or as the inner coil alone for a small pan. Because it's governing two coil zones instead of one, this switch uses six terminal connections rather than the three or four found on a standard single-element infinite switch, and it mounts to the control panel with a distinctive figure-8 style shaft and two female mounting holes. Like any infinite switch, it doesn't have fixed heat positions — instead it rapidly cycles power to the element(s) on and off at a ratio set by the knob, giving continuous heat adjustment from warm to high rather than a handful of steps. Rated for 240VAC at 15 amps. Over years of cycling, the internal contacts on a switch like this wear, pit, or weld together, and boilovers or spills can corrode the switch body and cause it to fail. A worn switch on a dual-element burner can produce an unusually wide symptom set: the whole burner may fail, or just the outer ring may stop responding while the inner coil still works, or the burner may stay on continuously regardless of the knob position. It directly replaces WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, and 4464832. As a genuine OEM part, the WB24X25013 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The WB24X25013 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges with a dual (bridge) element burner where the burner won't turn on or off, only the outer ring fails to work while the inner coil still heats, the burner stays on continuously, or heat can't be adjusted. Six-terminal switch, figure-8 shaft, 240VAC / 15A. Replaces WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, 4464832. Not the same switch as a standard single-element infinite switch — this one is specific to dual/bridge burners with an inner and outer coil. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dual-element burner won't turn on at all when the knob is turned Outer ring of a dual/bridge element won't activate while the inner coil still works Burner won't turn off — stays hot even with the knob at the off position Burner stuck at one heat level regardless of where the knob is set No ability to adjust temperature — always full blast or always low Intermittent burner operation — works sometimes, not others Knob feels loose, gritty, or doesn't turn smoothly through its range Burner failure that followed a boilover or liquid spill on the control panel Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This range surface burner infinite switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WB24X25013, WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AGE1543754, AP7216136, PS11729102, PS17872685, EAP11729102, 4464832, 191D4774P005, MDSA-W767-GEM If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This dual-element infinite switch is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges equipped with a dual (bridge) surface element, including model families such as: GE JB6, JB7, and JB8 series electric ranges (including JB630, JB640, JB645, and JB655) GE JBS series electric ranges GE JS6 and JS7 series electric ranges (including the JS760 series) GE GRS and GRF series electric ranges Hotpoint electric ranges (select GE-built models) Select Kenmore electric ranges built on the GE platform Verified model numbers include: JB645RK6SS, JS760EP6ES, JS760DP6WW, JS760SP7SS, JS760DP7WW, JS760SP6SS, JS760FP7DS, JS760FP6DS, JS760EP7ES, JB860EJAES, JB860FJADS, and GRS500PV1SS. Note: This is a six-terminal switch built specifically for a dual (bridge) element with a figure-8 style shaft and two female mounting holes — it is NOT interchangeable with a standard single-element infinite switch such as the WB24T10029 or WB24T10025, which use fewer terminals and a different shaft profile. Fitting a standard single-element switch to a dual-element burner circuit will not correctly control both coil zones. Always verify your full model number and confirm the affected burner is a dual/bridge element before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified contact design for dual-element switching Six-terminal design controls both the inner coil and outer ring of a dual (bridge) surface element Figure-8 style shaft with two female mounting holes matched to the original control panel bracket Infinite switch design allows continuous heat adjustment rather than a handful of fixed positions Rated 240VAC at 15 amps Resolves "burner won't turn on," "outer ring not working," "won't turn off," and "stuck at one heat level" symptoms caused by worn or corroded switch contacts Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the same control panel bracket and wiring harness Replaces 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, and 4464832 Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number WB24X25013 Part Type Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch (Dual/Bridge Element) Condition Genuine OEM Brand GE Element Type Controlled Dual (bridge) surface element — inner coil + outer ring Terminal Connections 6 Shaft Style Figure-8 Mounting Two female mounting holes Voltage 240VAC Amperage 15A Function Cycles element power to allow continuous (infinite) heat adjustment across both coil zones Quantity 1 switch Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ 240V Circuit — Unplug Range Or Shut Off Breaker Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning — this switch operates on a 240V circuit, and working on it while powered presents a serious shock hazard. Wear work gloves. Remove the burner knob (it typically pulls straight off, though some models use a small retaining clip) then remove the screws securing the control panel or backsplash to reach the switch from behind. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting anything — this is a six-terminal switch, and getting even one wire out of place can miswire the inner coil, the outer ring, or both. Label each wire as you remove it. Disconnect all six terminal connections from the old switch, then remove the mounting screws from the two mounting holes and pull the switch free from its figure-8 shaft opening. Install the new WB24X25013 in the same orientation, reconnect each of the six wires exactly as labeled, and secure the mounting hardware. Reinstall the control panel or backsplash, press the knob back onto the shaft, restore power, and test the burner at every knob position — confirm the inner coil and outer ring both activate correctly (together and, if your model supports it, with the outer ring switched off independently) before considering the repair complete. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, wire terminal pliers (helpful but optional), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if my burner uses a dual-element switch like this one? Look at the burner element itself: a dual (bridge) element has two distinct coil rings — a smaller inner coil and a larger outer ring — usually with a separate control or a knob position that lets you activate just the inner coil for a small pan or both rings together for a large pot. A standard single-ring element has only one coil and uses a simpler switch with fewer terminals. If your range has this two-ring burner design, the WB24X25013 (or the exact switch behind it) is the correct type — but always confirm your model number, since dual-element switches vary by range generation. Only the outer ring of my dual burner doesn't work. Is it the switch or the element? It could be either, and it's worth narrowing down before ordering. If the inner coil heats normally but the outer ring never activates at any knob position, check the outer ring element itself first — a broken element coil is a common and cheaper fix than a switch. If the outer ring element tests fine but the switch's six-terminal wiring specific to the outer coil circuit has failed or corroded, the infinite switch is the correct replacement. Can I use a standard single-element infinite switch instead if this one is out of stock? No. A standard single-element switch has fewer terminals and cannot correctly control the two separate coil zones of a dual (bridge) burner. Wiring a single-element switch into a dual-element circuit will leave one coil zone permanently uncontrolled or non-functional. Always order the six-terminal dual-element switch specified for your model. What does "infinite switch" mean? An infinite switch lets you dial in a continuous range of heat rather than a few fixed positions, by rapidly cycling the element's power on and off at a ratio set by the knob — low settings get short power pulses, high settings get long ones. When the internal contacts wear or weld together from years of cycling, the switch can get stuck feeding constant power (burner always hot) or stop switching at all (burner always off), regardless of where the knob is turned. A spill got into the control panel and now the burner won't turn off. Is that the switch? Very likely, yes. Liquid boilovers and spills are one of the most common causes of infinite switch failure — moisture gets into the switch body, corrodes or bridges the internal contacts, and the switch can end up stuck feeding power continuously even with the knob turned to off. If you suspect this, shut off power to the range immediately at the breaker rather than relying on the knob, since a shorted switch may not respond to it at all. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original six-terminal wiring, figure-8 shaft, 240VAC/15A electrical rating, and dual-coil switching behavior of the infinite switch originally installed for the dual (bridge) element in your GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore range. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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