Appliance Parts

EXP640 Dryer Belt and Idler Pulley Set – Replaces 661570V & 279640 – Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag & Kenmore Dryers Product Description Restore smooth drum rotation and eliminate dryer noise with the EXP640 Dryer Belt and Idler Pulley Set. This high-quality aftermarket repair kit includes one drum belt and one idler pulley, providing a convenient solution for common belt tension and tumbling issues. If your dryer is squealing, not turning, or producing uneven drying results, worn belt and pulley components are often the cause. Replacing both parts together helps restore proper belt tension, reduce noise, and extend the life of your dryer. This kit includes: 1 Drum Belt (Replaces 661570V) 1 Idler Pulley (Replaces 279640) Belt Replaces Part Numbers 661570V, 661570, 3387610, 3389728, 3393999, 339728, 661570VP, PD00023608, FIX382430, AP5983729, PS11722115 Idler Pulley Replaces Part Numbers 279640, 279640VP, 2958, 3388672, 697692, TJ279640, W10468057, AH334244, EA334244, ER279640, PD00002356, EAP334244, AP3094197, PS334244. Compatibility This dryer belt and idler pulley repair kit fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore (Whirlpool-manufactured), Amana, Estate, and Roper dryers. Common compatible models include (but are not limited to): Whirlpool WED4815EW Maytag MEDC215EW Kenmore 110.60612990 Always verify your dryer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure. ✅ Key Features 🔄 Complete Repair Kit – Includes one drum belt and one idler pulley 🌀 Restores Smooth Drum Rotation – Maintains proper belt tension 🔇 Reduces Noise & Vibration – Fixes squealing or slipping belt issues 💪 Durable Construction – Reinforced belt and long-life pulley bearing 💰 Cost-Effective Solution – Replace two common wear parts at once 📐 Product Specification Kit Number: EXP640 Includes: (1) Dryer Drum Belt – Replaces 661570V (1) Dryer Idler Pulley – Replaces 279640 Application: Dryer drum drive system Material: Reinforced rubber belt, metal pulley with bearing Quality Level: Aftermarket replacement kit (not OEM) 🛠️ Installation Notes Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver ⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the dryer before servicing to avoid electrical shock. Basic Steps: Disconnect dryer power. Remove the top and front panels (model dependent). Remove the drum and old belt and pulley. Install the new idler pulley onto the idler arm. Route the new belt around the drum and motor pulley. Reassemble the dryer and test operation. ⏱️ Time Required: 30–45 minutes 📦 Shop With Confidence 🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders ⚙️ Trusted Aftermarket Appliance Parts 🔄 30-Day Return Policy Restore quiet, reliable dryer performance — Add to Cart Now for a complete repair solution!

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PK136277-2 Lower Dishrack Roller and Axle Set Pack of 2 Replaces: WD12X10136,  WD12X10277   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part. California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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ERWR50X122 Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat  L60-32F. 1/4" side push on clip. 11-3/4" leads with stripped wire ends. Replaces Part Numbers: WR50X122, 2387, AH303471, AP2071262, EA303471, PS303471, WR50X0122, WR50X0128, WR50X10014, WR50X128   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.  California Residents Only - Warning: Cancer and Reproductive harm - https://www.p65warnings.ca.gov/

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XPARTCO Y312959 Dryer Drum Belt Replaces WPY312959 The XPARTCO Y312959 is an aftermarket replacement dryer drum drive belt compatible with a wide range of Maytag, Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore dryers — including the long-running vintage Maytag DE and DG halo-of-heat series. The drum belt is a critical component that connects the drive motor to the drum. It wraps all the way around the drum's circumference, passes around a spring-loaded idler (tension) pulley, and connects to the drive motor pulley. When the motor runs, it drives the belt, which rotates the drum to tumble clothes for even drying. Over time, drive belts fail from normal wear, cracking or fraying from age and repeated flexing, exposure to heat and lint buildup, stretching that causes slipping, or sudden breakage. Constructed from durable black rubber. Dimensions: 100" long x 3/8" (5/16") wide, with 5 ribs and 4 grooves. Includes instructions. It directly replaces Y312959, WPY312959, WPY312959VP, 312959, 3-12959, 3-14774, 314774, 1000H5, 8195-959, LB234, P46-150, P46-151, 1246110, 6-3129590, AP6024192, EAP11757542, PD00028571, and PS11757542. Important: install the belt with the grooved side against the motor pulley and the smooth side against the drum. Because the belt is symmetrical, it can be installed with either end facing out. Often replaced together with the idler pulley (WP6-3037050) and drum support roller kit (12001541 / 303373K), sold separately. Installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO Y312959 Dryer Drum Belt fixes Maytag, Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Amana, and Kenmore dryers where the drum won't turn (motor runs but drum stays still), the drum spins slowly, or the dryer makes loud squealing/thumping noises. 100"L x 3/8"W. 5 ribs, 4 grooves. Black rubber. Replaces WPY312959, WPY312959VP, 312959, 3-12959, 3-14774, 314774, 1000H5, 8195-959, LB234, P46-150, P46-151, 1246110, 6-3129590, AP6024192, EAP11757542, PS11757542. Install grooved side against the motor pulley, smooth side against the drum. Often paired with idler pulley WP6-3037050 and drum roller kit 12001541. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer drum doesn't turn — motor runs but drum stays still (belt snapped) Dryer drum rotates slowly or intermittently — belt worn or slipping Loud squealing, squeaking, or thumping noises during operation — belt cracked, glazed, or misaligned Clothes taking much longer than normal to dry — drum not tumbling clothes effectively Visible cracks, fraying, or glazing on the belt surface Belt broken completely — often heard as a loud snap during operation Drum spins freely by hand with no resistance — a clear sign the belt has snapped Belt worn thin or stretched after decades of use on a vintage Maytag dryer Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dryer drum belt directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: Y312959, WPY312959, 1000H5, 1246110, 3-12959, 3-14774, 312959, 314774, 8195-959, P46-150, P46-151, 6 3129590, AP6024192, AWP51437, EAP11757542, PD00028571, PS11757542 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This dryer drum belt is compatible with select dryers from the following brands: Maytag electric dryers — DE106, DE107, DE110, DE180, DE18CA/CM/CS/CT, DE19CA/CD/CS/CT, DE210, DE212, DE21CA/CM/CS/CT, DE22CA/CS/CT, DE23CD, DE24CA/CM/CS/CT, DE25CS, DE26CA/CD/CS/CT, DE27CA/CS/CT, DE303, DE308, DE309, DE312, DE313, DE382, DE4000, DE408-DE9900 series and many more Maytag gas dryers — DG106, DG107, DG110, DG18CA/CM/CS/CT, DG19CA/CD/CS/CT, DG210, DG212, DG21CA/CM/CS/CT, DG22CA/CS and related DG-series models Maytag dryers — LDE and LDG series (LDE7304ACE, LDE8406ACE/ACM/ADE, LDE8410, LDG8424AAE, LDG9304AAM and related) Jenn-Air dryers (select models) Whirlpool dryers (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper dryers (select Whirlpool/Maytag-built models) Kenmore / Sears dryers (select Whirlpool/Maytag-built models) Note: When you replace the drum belt, this is also the ideal time to inspect the idler (tension) pulley (WP6-3037050) and the drum support rollers (kit 12001541 / 303373K) — they wear from the same friction cycles as the belt, and if they're rough, seized, or noisy, the new belt will wear out prematurely. Before replacing the belt due to noise, check the drum support rollers and idler pulley and replace if you see signs of wear. Always verify your dryer model number before ordering. Key Features Dryer drum drive belt — connects the motor pulley to the drum to enable tumbling during drying cycles Resolves "drum won't turn," "loud squealing noise," and "long dry times" symptoms when caused by belt failure Durable black rubber construction — engineered to withstand thousands of hours of high-temperature, high-friction operation Dimensions: 100" long x 3/8" (5/16") wide with 5 ribs and 4 grooves Install with the grooved side against the motor pulley and the smooth side against the drum Symmetrical design — can be installed with either end facing out Includes instructions Replaces WPY312959, WPY312959VP, 312959, 3-12959, 3-14774, 314774, 1000H5, 8195-959, LB234, P46-150, P46-151, 1246110, 6-3129590, AP6024192, EAP11757542, and PS11757542 Compatible with vintage Maytag DE/DG series, LDE/LDG series, plus Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore dryers Often replaced together with the idler pulley (WP6-3037050) and drum support roller kit (12001541 / 303373K), sold separately Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number Y312959 OEM Part Number WPY312959 Part Type Dryer Drum Drive Belt Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Dryers (Maytag / Whirlpool platform) Length 100" Width 3/8" (5/16") Ribs / Grooves 5 ribs / 4 grooves Color Black Material Rubber Installation Orientation Grooved side against motor pulley, smooth side against drum Often Paired With Idler Pulley (WP6-3037050), Drum Roller Kit (12001541 / 303373K) Compatible Brands Maytag, Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — Grooved Side Against Motor Pulley Disconnect power at the breaker or outlet before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges inside the dryer cabinet. Access the drum by removing the appropriate panels — the specific procedure varies by model, but on many vintage Maytag dryers this involves removing the front or top panel. Photograph the belt routing before disassembly if any belt fragments remain. Remove any pieces of the old broken belt from around the drum, motor pulley, and idler pulley, and vacuum out accumulated lint and belt dust. Clean any belt dust off the drum. Route the new Y312959 belt around the drum. Install with the grooved (ribbed) side against the motor pulley and the smooth side against the drum — this is the correct orientation for proper drive engagement. Because the belt is symmetrical, either end can face outward. A helpful tip from experienced installers: use two small pieces of tape to hold the belt against the drum while you lace it onto the idler and motor pulleys. From under or behind the drum, route the belt around the idler (tension) pulley and the drive motor pulley following the belt diagram for your model. Rotate the drum by hand a few full turns to confirm the belt seats correctly and rides smoothly without binding. While you have the machine apart, check that the idler pulley and drum support rollers spin freely — if they're rough or noisy, replace them now to protect the new belt. Reassemble the panels, restore power, and run a test cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, socket/ratchet, vacuum, work gloves, tape (helpful for holding the belt). Frequently Asked Questions My dryer runs but the drum won't turn — is the belt the problem? Almost certainly, yes. When the motor runs (you hear the humming) but the drum stays still, the belt has almost always snapped. To confirm without opening the dryer: reach in and try turning the drum by hand. If it spins freely with no resistance whatsoever, the belt is broken. If it turns but feels notchy or resistant, the belt may still be intact but the drum rollers or bearings could be the issue. Opening the dryer to inspect is the definitive check — a snapped belt will be lying in the bottom of the cabinet. On decades-old Maytag dryers, a belt that finally snapped from age is one of the most common repairs. Which way does the belt go — grooves in or out? Install the belt with the grooved (ribbed) side facing the motor pulley and the smooth side against the drum. The ribs engage the grooved motor pulley for positive drive without slipping, while the smooth side rides against the large drum surface. Note that this is the opposite orientation from some other dryer belts (like certain Frigidaire belts where grooves face the drum) — so don't assume; follow the grooves-against-motor-pulley rule for this Maytag/Whirlpool-platform belt. The belt is symmetrical end-to-end, so either end can face outward; only the grooved-vs-smooth orientation matters. Should I replace the idler pulley and drum rollers at the same time? It's strongly recommended, especially on older dryers. The idler (tension) pulley (WP6-3037050) keeps the belt under proper tension, and the drum support rollers (kit 12001541 / 303373K) carry the drum's weight as it turns. All wear from the same friction and heat cycles as the belt. In fact, a common piece of repair advice is: before you replace the belt due to noise, check the drum support rollers and idler pulley first — worn rollers or a seized idler are frequent noise sources, and if you replace only the belt, the new belt may wear out prematurely against a bad pulley. Since the dryer is already apart, replacing all three together is efficient and saves a repeat repair. What's the difference between Y312959 and WPY312959? These are the same drum belt across production revisions. Y312959 was the earlier Maytag part number and WPY312959 is the Whirlpool-era part number (after Whirlpool acquired Maytag) for the same belt. WPY312959VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your dryer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many other cross-references (3-12959, 314774, LB234, P46-150, etc.) reflect the belt's long production history across decades of Maytag dryers. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Maytag/Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured from durable rubber to match the dimensions (100"L x 3/8"W), rib and groove pattern (5 ribs, 4 grooves), and drive function of the original Y312959/WPY312959 drum belt used in compatible Maytag, Jenn-Air, Whirlpool, Amana, and Kenmore dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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MJX41869202 Refrigerator Genuine LG Water Inlet Valve Genuine LG refrigerator water inlet valve designed to control water flow to the ice maker and water dispenser. ✓ Genuine LG Part ✓ Replaces MJX41869202 ✓ Compatibility Support Product Description The MJX41869202 Refrigerator Genuine LG Water Inlet Valve controls the flow of water into compatible LG refrigerators. This valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser when called by the appliance. Replacing a faulty refrigerator water valve can help fix water supply issues, leaking, no ice production, or dispenser flow problems. Quick Answer If your refrigerator is not making ice, the water dispenser is not working, or water is leaking near the valve area, the MJX41869202 water inlet valve may need replacement. ⚠️ Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator not making ice Water dispenser not working Slow or no water flow Water leaking from valve area Faulty refrigerator water inlet valve Replaces part Number MJX41869202, 2646397, 5221JB2010J, 5221JB2010L, 5221JB2010Q, MJX41869209, EAP6448332, ALG1106453, AP5666281, PD00005216, PS6448332. Compatibility This genuine LG part fits select LG, Kenmore, and compatible refrigerator models using part number MJX41869202. Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. Key Features Genuine LG refrigerator water inlet valve Controls water flow to dispenser and ice maker Helps restore proper water supply Designed for compatible refrigerator models Reliable OEM replacement component Product Specifications Brand LG Part Type Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Primary Part Number MJX41869202 Compatible Appliance Type Refrigerator Condition Genuine New Installation Disconnect power and shut off the water supply before installation. Inspect water lines, fittings, and connections for leaks after installation. Troubleshooting Guide ⚠️ Disconnect power and shut off water supply before servicing the refrigerator. Check the water supply line for kinks or restrictions. Inspect the valve area for leaks or damaged fittings. Verify the refrigerator water filter is not clogged. Replace the water inlet valve if water flow problems continue. When Should You Replace This Part? Replace the refrigerator water inlet valve if the ice maker is not filling, the water dispenser has weak or no flow, or water is leaking from the valve area. Shop With Confidence We are a U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock parts for major appliance brands and ship quickly from our U.S. warehouse. ✓ Fast Shipping ✓ Genuine Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout ```

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6322FR2046CCM Washer Thermistor Assembly Monitors water temperature Fits LG and Kenmore Washer Replaces Part Numbers:6322FR2046C, 6322FR2046B, 1268202, 6322FR2046F, 6322FR2046W, AH3528953, EA3528953, AP4445159, PS3528953. Description: This Thermistor Assembly is a replacement part for select front loading LG washing machine models. It plays an important role in monitoring and regulating temperatures during heated wash cycles. The thermistor detects temperature changes within the wash drum and sends this information to the control board to ensure clothes are washed at the optimal temperature.   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.

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(2 Pack) EXPHV11 Microwave High Voltage Diode (Rectifier) Replaces: GE, LG, AMANA, ELECTROLUX, GE, KENMORE, MAYTAG, WHIRLPOOL, Frigidaire T3512, 3512, T4512, H, CL01-12, HVM12, 512 H, 12Kv, 350mA.   Replaces Part Numbers: 11QBP0236, AP5633254, PS4085133, AP3192533, PS239740 EA239740, WB27X10597, 13091701, AP6005641 PS11738693, WP13091701, 417726, 00188507 AP3382376 PS8712310, 00417726, PS11745270, AP6012063, 8205489, AP4357534, PS2339491, EA2339491, 5304467670, AP4564925, 3518400400, PS11745270, AP6012063, WP8205489, PS3654932, AP5631218, W10245187, W10492278. Description: This Diode Assembly is a replacement part for specific microwave models. It plays a crucial role in converting alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC), which is essential for the microwave’s high-voltage functions, including powering the magnetron to generate microwave energy. Over time, diodes can fail due to electrical surges, excessive heat, or wear and tear. A faulty diode assembly can lead to inefficient or non-functional microwave operation, impacting its ability to heat food properly. Microwave High Voltage Diode – Universal Replacement Restore your microwave’s heating function with this high-quality high voltage diode. Built to handle up to 12,000V / 500mA, it’s a reliable replacement for worn or damaged diodes in many major brands. Features: Direct replacement for most microwave models Durable and rated for high-voltage performance Fixes common issues like no heat or humming Fits brands: GE, Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, Panasonic, Frigidaire, and more. ⚠️ Installation should be done with power disconnected. Not sure if it fits? Contact us to confirm compatibility.

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WD14X10009 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Hinge Arm Link The WD14X10009 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement dishwasher hinge arm link compatible with an exceptionally wide range of GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, and Kenmore GE-built dishwashers — it fits over 2,100 models. The hinge arm link is the small plastic connector that joins the door spring to the door hinge arm at the bottom of the dishwasher door. This tiny part carries a big load: it's what allows the spring to counterbalance the weight of the door — especially when the door is open with a fully loaded lower rack resting on it. Without an intact link, the spring can't do its job, and the door drops open under its own weight instead of lowering in a smooth, controlled motion. The hinge arm link is a small piece of white plastic approximately 1-1/2" long, weighing about 0.01 lbs. It fails from ordinary wear and tear — thousands of open/close cycles gradually stress the plastic until it cracks or snaps. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications, the WD14X10009 directly replaces AP2039321, 270839, AH259336, EA259336, and PS259336. Important: your dishwasher has a door spring and hinge arm link on BOTH the left and right sides. This part is sold individually — if one link has broken from age, the other is the same age and often not far behind, so many customers order two and replace both while the dishwasher is pulled out. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The WD14X10009 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Hinge Arm Link fixes GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, and Kenmore dishwashers where the door falls open instead of lowering gently, the door won't stay shut or won't latch, the door is hard to open or close, or the door slants when open. Small white plastic link ~1-1/2" long — connects the door spring to the door hinge arm. Genuine OEM. Sold individually. Replaces AP2039321, 270839, AH259336, EA259336, PS259336. Fits 2,100+ GE-platform dishwasher models. There's one link on EACH side of the door — consider ordering two. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher door falls open instead of lowering in a smooth, controlled motion — no counterbalance from the spring Door drops down hard when opened — link broken, spring disconnected Door won't stay shut, or opens unexpectedly Door won't latch or lock properly Door is difficult to open or close Door slants or hangs unevenly when open Hinge arm link visibly cracked, bent, broken, or significantly worn Broken plastic link found lying on the floor beneath the dishwasher Door spring disconnected and hanging loose Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dishwasher hinge arm link directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WD14X10009, AGE24269, AP2039321, 270839, AH259336, EA259336, EAP259336, PD00023035, PS259336 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This hinge arm link is compatible with an exceptionally broad range of dishwashers — over 2,100 models across the following brands: GE dishwashers — the vast majority of GE dishwasher models across many generations GE Profile dishwashers (including PDW-series models) Café dishwashers (select models) GE Monogram dishwashers (select models) Hotpoint dishwashers (select models) RCA dishwashers (select GE-built models) Haier dishwashers (select GE-platform models) Kenmore / Sears dishwashers (select GE-built models) Important — There Are TWO Links, One Per Side: Your dishwasher door has a spring and hinge arm link on both the left and right sides. This part is sold individually. Many customers discover the second link only after reinstalling the dishwasher — and since both links are the same age and have seen the same wear, the surviving one often breaks soon after. Consider ordering two and replacing both while the dishwasher is already pulled out. Also inspect the door hinge cable at the same time; if it's frayed, kinked, or bent, replace it too. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Hinge arm link — connects the door spring to the door hinge arm, allowing the spring to counterbalance the door's weight Enables the dishwasher door to open in a smooth, controlled motion rather than dropping open Supports the door's weight even when the lower rack is fully loaded and resting on the open door Prevents strain on the door hinges and door misalignment Small white plastic link, approximately 1-1/2" long, ~0.01 lbs Sold individually — note there is one link on each side of the door Replaces AP2039321, 270839, AH259336, EA259336, and PS259336 Fits over 2,100 dishwasher models across GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, and Kenmore GE-built lines Inexpensive fix for a problem that would otherwise cost a service call — many customers report the entire repair takes about 15 minutes DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WD14X10009 Part Type Dishwasher Hinge Arm Link (Door Spring Link) Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (GE platform) Length Approximately 1-1/2" Weight Approximately 0.01 lbs Color White Material Plastic Function Connects the door spring to the door hinge arm Location Bottom of the dishwasher door hinge, both left and right sides Quantity Sold individually (dishwasher uses TWO — one per side) Model Coverage Over 2,100 models Compatible Brands GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Remove the screws holding the bottom kick plate (a nut driver works well here) and the anchor screws at the top of the dishwasher that secure it to the countertop. Carefully pull the dishwasher out 8–10 inches from the cabinet to expose the door springs and hinge arm links at the bottom on both sides. (Depending on how the dishwasher is plumbed, you may be able to do this without disconnecting the water supply, drain line, or electrical — pull only as far as the connections allow, and disconnect them only if necessary for access.) Look at the hinge assembly at the bottom of the door: you'll see a steel cable with a hooked end, a spring, and the small white plastic link that ties them together. If the link is broken, it may already be lying on the floor. Remove the old link by disconnecting it from the hinge and spring — if it's cracked but still in place, you can break the remaining pieces free. Install the new WD14X10009: place the hinge arm link into the spring, hook the spring onto the clip, and seat the link into the clip on the hinge arm. Note: on some models the crimped hook opening on the steel cable is tight — if the new link won't slide in easily, a small file can carefully open the hook opening enough to accept it. Check the other side of the door while you're in there — there's a second spring and link, and if it's aged or cracked, replace it now. Push the dishwasher back into place, reinstall the anchor screws and kick plate, restore power and water, and test the door: it should now lower smoothly under spring tension rather than falling open. Tools needed: Nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, small file (occasionally), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My dishwasher door falls open instead of lowering gently — is this the part? Almost certainly, yes. The door spring is what counterbalances the door's weight so it lowers in a controlled motion. The hinge arm link is the small plastic piece that connects that spring to the door hinge arm. When the link cracks or snaps, the spring is effectively disconnected — so the door has no counterbalance and drops open under its own weight. This is the classic symptom. To confirm, pull the dishwasher out a few inches and look at the bottom hinge area on each side: if a link is broken, you'll often find the pieces on the floor or the spring hanging loose. If both links are intact, check the door hinge cable for fraying or the spring for damage. Should I order one or two? Order two. Your dishwasher has a door spring and hinge arm link on both sides of the door — and this part is sold individually. Many customers order one, replace the broken link, push the dishwasher back into the cabinet, and only then realize the second link exists (and is the same age, with the same wear). Since the tedious part of the job is pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter, replacing both links while you're already in there is the smart move. At a few dollars each, having a spare on hand is cheap insurance against doing the whole job over in a few months. Why do these little plastic links break? Ordinary wear and tear. The hinge arm link is a small plastic component that carries a surprising amount of load — every time you open the door, it transmits the spring's counterbalancing force to the hinge arm, and that load increases dramatically when the lower rack is fully loaded and resting on the open door. Over thousands of open/close cycles across years of use, the plastic fatigues and eventually cracks or snaps. It's a consumable wear item on GE dishwashers, which is exactly why GE uses the same inexpensive part across 2,100+ models. Do I have to disconnect the water and electrical to pull the dishwasher out? Often not. Many customers find that removing the top anchor screws and the bottom kick plate, then sliding the dishwasher out 8–10 inches, gives enough access to reach the hinge arm links — without disconnecting the water supply, drain hose, or electrical. It depends on how much slack your installer left in those lines. Pull the dishwasher out only as far as the connections allow, and see whether you can reach the hinge area. If the lines are too short and you can't reach, you'll need to disconnect the water supply, drain tube, and electrical (turn off power and water first). Either way, the link replacement itself takes only a few minutes once you can reach it. Should I replace the door hinge cable at the same time? Inspect it, and replace it if it shows any damage. The door hinge cable is the steel cable that connects the door spring assembly to the door hinge — it works alongside the link and spring in the same counterbalance system. If the cable is frayed, kinked, bent, or its crimped hook end is damaged, it will fail soon and you'll be pulling the dishwasher out again. Since you already have access, this is the ideal moment to check it. Also inspect the door spring itself for stretching or breakage. Contact our support team with your model number if you need the correct cable or spring part number. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same hinge arm link installed in compatible GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, and Kenmore GE-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat Replaces WP4449751 The XPARTCO 4449751 is an aftermarket replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails. Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. It directly replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode) Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food Oven fails to start when powered on Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands: Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series) Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS) Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05) Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series) Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models) Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02) KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00) Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549 Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 4449751 OEM Part Number WP4449751 Part Type Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform) Trip Temperature 335°F (170°C) Type Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new 4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place? A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open. What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat? These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement. Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping? The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement. Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat? This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem. Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician? Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the trip temperature (335°F / 170°C), auto-reset function, terminal configuration, and fit of the original WP4449751 high limit thermostat used in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob The XPARTCO WE01X30638 is an aftermarket replacement control knob compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer combination units). The control knob mounts on the timer or cycle selector shaft on the laundry center's control panel — it's what you grip and turn to choose wash cycles, dry cycles, and timer settings on both the washer and dryer sections of the unit. Because a stacked laundry center's knobs get twice the daily use of a standalone appliance (one control panel serving both washer and dryer functions), cracked and stripped knobs are one of the most common repairs on these units. Constructed from durable black ABS plastic with a polished silver edge ring and an internal metal plate insert that grips the D-shaped control shaft — allowing precise detent positioning so you land exactly on your desired cycle setting. Approximately 2" in diameter with thick inner walls to resist the cracking that plagues aging original knobs. Snap-on installation — pulls straight off, pushes back on, no tools required. This is the current production version, directly superseding WE01X24776. It also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089. Installs in under 1 minute — no tools required. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob replaces a cracked, stripped, or missing control knob on GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built stacked laundry centers. Black ABS plastic with polished silver edge, ~2" diameter, internal metal plate for a firm shaft grip. Snap-on — no tools required. Current part superseding WE01X24776; also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, EAP16226089. Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG, GUD27ESPM1DG, GUD27GSPM0DG, GUD27GSPM1DG and related GUD27 series laundry centers. Common Problems This Part Fixes Control knob cracked or split from age and repeated use — the most common failure on GUD27-series laundry centers Knob spinning freely on the shaft — internal grip stripped, no longer changing settings when turned Knob difficult to turn or not responding — worn internal metal plate no longer engaging the shaft Knob missing entirely from the control panel Knob loose and wobbling on the shaft — imprecise cycle selection Hairline cracks visible around the knob's shaft opening — early-stage failure that will soon strip Knob damaged from impact or overtightened grip Replacing multiple aging knobs at once — original knobs from the same production era tend to crack around the same time Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This laundry center control knob directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WE01X30638, WE01X24776, AGE25575, AP6996856, EAP16226089, PD00068517, PS16226089. WE01X30638 is the current production part superseding WE01X24776. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This control knob is compatible with select laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer units) from the following brands: GE laundry centers — GUD27ESPM0DG (electric dryer) and GUD27ESPM1DG series GE laundry centers — GUD27GSPM0DG (gas dryer) and GUD27GSPM1DG series GE laundry centers — related GUD27 series models (verify with parts diagram) Hotpoint laundry centers (select GE-built models) RCA laundry centers (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears laundry centers (select GE-built models) Tip: If one knob on your laundry center has cracked, inspect the others — knobs from the same production era typically develop cracks around the same time. Since the replacement takes seconds and the knobs are identical, many customers order two or more at once and replace them all in a single session, avoiding a repeat order a few months later. This knob is approximately 2" in diameter — confirm your original knob's size matches before ordering. Key Features Control knob for laundry center timer and cycle selection — installs on the control panel shaft Durable black ABS plastic construction with thick inner walls — resists the cracking common on aging original knobs Polished silver edge ring for a clean, modern look that matches GE laundry center styling Internal metal plate insert grips the D-shaped control shaft firmly — precise detent positioning for accurate cycle selection Approximately 2" diameter with smooth mirror-polished surface for a comfortable grip Snap-on installation — pulls straight off the shaft, pushes back on; no tools or hardware required Current production part — directly supersedes WE01X24776 Replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089 Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG/1DG and GUD27GSPM0DG/1DG laundry centers, plus Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built models Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick replacement — installs in under 1 minute Product Specifications Part Number XPWE01X30638 Supersedes WE01X24776 Part Type Laundry Center Control Knob (Timer / Cycle Selector) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Laundry Centers / Stacked Washer-Dryer Units (GE platform) Diameter Approximately 2" Color Black with polished silver edge Material ABS plastic with internal metal plate insert Shaft Type D-shaped shaft receiver Installation Snap-on — no tools required Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Laundry Center Before Starting — Quick Toolless Replacement Disconnect power before beginning as a general safety precaution. Locate the old control knob on the laundry center's control panel. Grip the knob firmly and pull it straight off the control shaft — it should come off with a moderate pull (no tools required). If the knob is cracked and spinning without releasing, wrap a soft cloth around it for extra grip, or gently pry it off with a plastic tool (avoid metal tools that could scratch the control panel). Once the old knob is off, inspect the metal control shaft — note the D-shape (flat side) of the shaft. If the shaft itself is damaged, worn round, or the timer behind it feels loose, the underlying timer or switch may also need attention. Align the new WE01X30638 knob's internal D-shaped receiver with the flat side of the shaft and push it firmly straight on until it seats fully. Rotate the knob through its full range to confirm it clicks into each detent position cleanly and the indicator lines up with the panel markings. Restore power and run a quick test cycle. If replacing multiple knobs, repeat for each position — they're all identical on compatible GUD27-series units. Tools needed: None (soft cloth optional). Frequently Asked Questions Why do the knobs on my GE laundry center keep cracking? The original knobs on GUD27-series laundry centers are subject to constant rotational stress concentrated at the D-shaped shaft opening — and on a stacked laundry center, one control panel serves both the washer and dryer, so the knobs see roughly double the daily turning of a standalone appliance's controls. Over years of use, hairline cracks form at the shaft opening and gradually spread until the knob's grip strips and it spins freely. The replacement knob's thick inner walls and internal metal plate insert are designed to resist this failure pattern. If one of your knobs has cracked, check the others — knobs from the same production era typically crack around the same time, and replacing them together saves a repeat order. What's the difference between WE01X30638 and WE01X24776? These are the same control knob across production revisions. WE01X24776 was the earlier GE part number, and WE01X30638 is the current production version that GE issued as its direct replacement. Both are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your laundry center's parts diagram shows WE01X24776, the WE01X30638 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers both numbers. There may be a very slight color variation between the new knob and your aged originals, but the fit and function are identical. How do I remove the old knob if it's cracked and just spins? When the internal grip has stripped, the knob spins on the shaft instead of pulling off cleanly. Wrap a soft cloth around the knob for extra grip and pull firmly straight out while wiggling slightly. If that doesn't work, gently work a plastic pry tool (a plastic putty knife or old credit card) behind the knob's base and lever it outward evenly around its circumference. Avoid metal tools, which can scratch the control panel. If the knob is badly cracked, you can also carefully break away the remaining plastic to free it from the shaft. Once removed, the new knob pushes straight on. Does this knob work for both the washer and dryer controls on my laundry center? Yes — on compatible GUD27-series laundry centers, the control knobs across the panel are the same part, whether they operate washer cycle selection, dryer timer, or other rotary controls that use the same D-shaped shaft. If you're replacing more than one knob, a single part number covers all matching positions. Just confirm each position's knob is the same ~2" diameter style before ordering multiples — if your unit has a visibly different-sized knob at any position, verify against the parts diagram first. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured from durable ABS plastic with an internal metal plate insert to match the dimensions (~2" diameter), D-shaped shaft receiver, snap-on installation, and appearance of the original WE01X30638/WE01X24776 control knob used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat The WP4449751 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails. Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the WP4449751 directly replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician. Quick Answer The WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Genuine OEM. Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode) Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food Oven fails to start when powered on Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands: Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series) Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS) Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05) Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series) Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models) Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02) KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00) Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response One-year Whirlpool warranty on Genuine OEM parts Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549 Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WP4449751 Part Type Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch) Condition Genuine OEM Application Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform) Trip Temperature 335°F (170°C) Type Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range) Warranty One-Year Whirlpool Warranty (Genuine OEM) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new WP4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place? A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open. What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat? These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement. Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping? The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement. Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat? This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem. Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician? Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same high limit thermostat installed in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Backed by Whirlpool's one-year warranty on Genuine OEM parts. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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