Appliance Parts

XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat Replaces WP4449751 The XPARTCO 4449751 is an aftermarket replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails. Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. It directly replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 4449751 Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode) Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food Oven fails to start when powered on Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands: Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series) Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS) Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05) Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series) Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models) Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02) KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00) Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response Replaces WP4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549 Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 4449751 OEM Part Number WP4449751 Part Type Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform) Trip Temperature 335°F (170°C) Type Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new 4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place? A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open. What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat? These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement. Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping? The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement. Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat? This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem. Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician? Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the trip temperature (335°F / 170°C), auto-reset function, terminal configuration, and fit of the original WP4449751 high limit thermostat used in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob The XPARTCO WE01X30638 is an aftermarket replacement control knob compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer combination units). The control knob mounts on the timer or cycle selector shaft on the laundry center's control panel — it's what you grip and turn to choose wash cycles, dry cycles, and timer settings on both the washer and dryer sections of the unit. Because a stacked laundry center's knobs get twice the daily use of a standalone appliance (one control panel serving both washer and dryer functions), cracked and stripped knobs are one of the most common repairs on these units. Constructed from durable black ABS plastic with a polished silver edge ring and an internal metal plate insert that grips the D-shaped control shaft — allowing precise detent positioning so you land exactly on your desired cycle setting. Approximately 2" in diameter with thick inner walls to resist the cracking that plagues aging original knobs. Snap-on installation — pulls straight off, pushes back on, no tools required. This is the current production version, directly superseding WE01X24776. It also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089. Installs in under 1 minute — no tools required. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob replaces a cracked, stripped, or missing control knob on GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built stacked laundry centers. Black ABS plastic with polished silver edge, ~2" diameter, internal metal plate for a firm shaft grip. Snap-on — no tools required. Current part superseding WE01X24776; also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, EAP16226089. Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG, GUD27ESPM1DG, GUD27GSPM0DG, GUD27GSPM1DG and related GUD27 series laundry centers. Common Problems This Part Fixes Control knob cracked or split from age and repeated use — the most common failure on GUD27-series laundry centers Knob spinning freely on the shaft — internal grip stripped, no longer changing settings when turned Knob difficult to turn or not responding — worn internal metal plate no longer engaging the shaft Knob missing entirely from the control panel Knob loose and wobbling on the shaft — imprecise cycle selection Hairline cracks visible around the knob's shaft opening — early-stage failure that will soon strip Knob damaged from impact or overtightened grip Replacing multiple aging knobs at once — original knobs from the same production era tend to crack around the same time Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This laundry center control knob directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WE01X30638, WE01X24776, AGE25575, AP6996856, EAP16226089, PD00068517, PS16226089. WE01X30638 is the current production part superseding WE01X24776. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This control knob is compatible with select laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer units) from the following brands: GE laundry centers — GUD27ESPM0DG (electric dryer) and GUD27ESPM1DG series GE laundry centers — GUD27GSPM0DG (gas dryer) and GUD27GSPM1DG series GE laundry centers — related GUD27 series models (verify with parts diagram) Hotpoint laundry centers (select GE-built models) RCA laundry centers (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears laundry centers (select GE-built models) Tip: If one knob on your laundry center has cracked, inspect the others — knobs from the same production era typically develop cracks around the same time. Since the replacement takes seconds and the knobs are identical, many customers order two or more at once and replace them all in a single session, avoiding a repeat order a few months later. This knob is approximately 2" in diameter — confirm your original knob's size matches before ordering. Key Features Control knob for laundry center timer and cycle selection — installs on the control panel shaft Durable black ABS plastic construction with thick inner walls — resists the cracking common on aging original knobs Polished silver edge ring for a clean, modern look that matches GE laundry center styling Internal metal plate insert grips the D-shaped control shaft firmly — precise detent positioning for accurate cycle selection Approximately 2" diameter with smooth mirror-polished surface for a comfortable grip Snap-on installation — pulls straight off the shaft, pushes back on; no tools or hardware required Current production part — directly supersedes WE01X24776 Replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089 Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG/1DG and GUD27GSPM0DG/1DG laundry centers, plus Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built models Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick replacement — installs in under 1 minute Product Specifications Part Number XPWE01X30638 Supersedes WE01X24776 Part Type Laundry Center Control Knob (Timer / Cycle Selector) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Laundry Centers / Stacked Washer-Dryer Units (GE platform) Diameter Approximately 2" Color Black with polished silver edge Material ABS plastic with internal metal plate insert Shaft Type D-shaped shaft receiver Installation Snap-on — no tools required Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Laundry Center Before Starting — Quick Toolless Replacement Disconnect power before beginning as a general safety precaution. Locate the old control knob on the laundry center's control panel. Grip the knob firmly and pull it straight off the control shaft — it should come off with a moderate pull (no tools required). If the knob is cracked and spinning without releasing, wrap a soft cloth around it for extra grip, or gently pry it off with a plastic tool (avoid metal tools that could scratch the control panel). Once the old knob is off, inspect the metal control shaft — note the D-shape (flat side) of the shaft. If the shaft itself is damaged, worn round, or the timer behind it feels loose, the underlying timer or switch may also need attention. Align the new WE01X30638 knob's internal D-shaped receiver with the flat side of the shaft and push it firmly straight on until it seats fully. Rotate the knob through its full range to confirm it clicks into each detent position cleanly and the indicator lines up with the panel markings. Restore power and run a quick test cycle. If replacing multiple knobs, repeat for each position — they're all identical on compatible GUD27-series units. Tools needed: None (soft cloth optional). Frequently Asked Questions Why do the knobs on my GE laundry center keep cracking? The original knobs on GUD27-series laundry centers are subject to constant rotational stress concentrated at the D-shaped shaft opening — and on a stacked laundry center, one control panel serves both the washer and dryer, so the knobs see roughly double the daily turning of a standalone appliance's controls. Over years of use, hairline cracks form at the shaft opening and gradually spread until the knob's grip strips and it spins freely. The replacement knob's thick inner walls and internal metal plate insert are designed to resist this failure pattern. If one of your knobs has cracked, check the others — knobs from the same production era typically crack around the same time, and replacing them together saves a repeat order. What's the difference between WE01X30638 and WE01X24776? These are the same control knob across production revisions. WE01X24776 was the earlier GE part number, and WE01X30638 is the current production version that GE issued as its direct replacement. Both are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your laundry center's parts diagram shows WE01X24776, the WE01X30638 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers both numbers. There may be a very slight color variation between the new knob and your aged originals, but the fit and function are identical. How do I remove the old knob if it's cracked and just spins? When the internal grip has stripped, the knob spins on the shaft instead of pulling off cleanly. Wrap a soft cloth around the knob for extra grip and pull firmly straight out while wiggling slightly. If that doesn't work, gently work a plastic pry tool (a plastic putty knife or old credit card) behind the knob's base and lever it outward evenly around its circumference. Avoid metal tools, which can scratch the control panel. If the knob is badly cracked, you can also carefully break away the remaining plastic to free it from the shaft. Once removed, the new knob pushes straight on. Does this knob work for both the washer and dryer controls on my laundry center? Yes — on compatible GUD27-series laundry centers, the control knobs across the panel are the same part, whether they operate washer cycle selection, dryer timer, or other rotary controls that use the same D-shaped shaft. If you're replacing more than one knob, a single part number covers all matching positions. Just confirm each position's knob is the same ~2" diameter style before ordering multiples — if your unit has a visibly different-sized knob at any position, verify against the parts diagram first. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured from durable ABS plastic with an internal metal plate insert to match the dimensions (~2" diameter), D-shaped shaft receiver, snap-on installation, and appearance of the original WE01X30638/WE01X24776 control knob used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat The WP4449751 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement oven high limit thermostat compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens, wall ovens, microwave-oven combinations, and ranges. The high limit thermostat is a critical safety device mounted near the oven cavity — it continuously monitors the oven's temperature and cuts off electrical power to the heating element if the oven exceeds its safe operating temperature. When the oven temperature drops back to normal, the thermostat closes and allows normal operation to resume. This backup safety layer protects against fires, damage to the oven, and unsafe cooking conditions when the main temperature control fails. Rated to trip at approximately 335°F (170°C). Common causes for the high limit thermostat to trip include a faulty control board, cooling fan failure, blocked ventilation, poor door sealing, disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the WP4449751 directly replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools by experienced DIYers. This is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit — proceed only if you're comfortable with high-voltage electrical work, or call a qualified appliance technician. Quick Answer The WP4449751 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Oven High Limit Thermostat fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore ovens with symptoms including oven not heating, oven overheating, uneven heating, oven failing to start, and self-clean door won't unlock after cycle. 335°F (170°C) trip temperature — cuts off power to heating element on overheat, then resets when temperature returns to normal. Genuine OEM. Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, AH11742549. Compatible with WOS/WOD wall ovens, KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, and many more. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating at all — high limit thermostat tripped open Oven overheating — thermostat failing to trip when needed (rare failure mode) Inconsistent oven temperatures leading to undercooked or overcooked food Oven fails to start when powered on Oven door won't unlock after a self-cleaning cycle completes Uneven heating — hot spots or cold spots inside the oven cavity Oven cuts off heat mid-cycle without reaching set temperature F-code or thermostat-related error displayed on the control panel Multimeter continuity test on the thermostat shows an open circuit at room temperature Visible damage or discoloration on the thermostat housing from a prior overheat event Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This oven high limit thermostat directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP4449751, 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AWP47600, EAP2375382, PD00025977, PS11742549 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This high limit thermostat is compatible with select ovens, wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combinations from the following brands: Whirlpool wall ovens — WOS series (WOS31ES0JS, WOS51EC0AS, WOS51EC0HS, WOS51EC7HW02, WOS51EC7HW21, WOS72EC0HS/HV, WOS72EC7HS/HV, WOS92EC0/EC7 all revisions, WOS97ES0ES series) Whirlpool double wall ovens — WOD series (WOD51EC0AW03, WOD51EC7HS, WOD93EC7AS) Whirlpool combination wall ovens — WOC54EC0/EC7 series KitchenAid wall ovens — KOSE, KODE, and KOCE series (KOSE500ESS, KODE500ESS, KOCE500ESS, KOCE500EBL00/EBL01/EBL02/EBL04/EBL05) Jenn-Air wall ovens — JJW, JMW, JDRP, and JDR series (JJW2427DB/DS 00/01, JJW2430DS, JJW3430DS, JMW2430DS, JDRP430HL/HM 00/01, JDRP430WP00, JDRP436HL/HM/WP series, JDRP536HL/HM/WP series) Maytag wall ovens and ranges (select models) Amana wall ovens (select models — AWO6313SFB00/02, AWO6313SFS00/02, AWO6313SFW00/02) KitchenAid ranges — KDRS407 series (KDRS407VBK01, KDRS407VBU01, KDRS407VSS00) Whirlpool ranges — IBD350DS00, IBS300DS00, IBS350DS00 series Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore / Sears wall ovens (select Whirlpool-built models) Suitable for single or double electric wall ovens and microwave-oven combination units Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance High limit thermostat (safety switch) — cuts off power to the oven's heating element when temperature exceeds 335°F (170°C) to prevent overheating damage or fire Auto-reset design — closes and restores normal operation when the oven temperature returns to safe range Precision-calibrated to Whirlpool factory specifications for accurate trip temperature and reliable safety response One-year Whirlpool warranty on Genuine OEM parts Replaces 4449751, 1550872, AP6009390, AH2375382, EA2375382, PS2375382, PS11742549, EAP11742549, and AH11742549 Compatible with Whirlpool WOS/WOD/WOC series, KitchenAid KOSE/KODE/KOCE series, Jenn-Air JJW/JMW/JDRP/JDR series, plus Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens Fits single wall ovens, double wall ovens, ranges, and microwave-oven combination units Resolves "oven won't heat," "overheating," "uneven heating," "self-clean door stuck locked," and "won't start" symptoms when caused by a failed high limit thermostat For experienced DIYers or qualified appliance technicians — this is a safety component in a 240V oven circuit Installation typically takes 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WP4449751 Part Type Oven High Limit Thermostat (Safety Switch) Condition Genuine OEM Application Wall Ovens, Ranges, Microwave-Oven Combinations (Whirlpool platform) Trip Temperature 335°F (170°C) Type Auto-Reset (closes when temperature returns to safe range) Warranty One-Year Whirlpool Warranty (Genuine OEM) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Turn Off Power at Breaker Before Starting — This Is a 240V Oven Circuit — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the household breaker before beginning — this is a 240V circuit and there is a serious risk of electrical shock if power is not fully disconnected. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Allow the oven to cool completely before beginning (several hours after any recent cooking). The high limit thermostat is typically mounted on the rear or side of the oven cavity, accessed by removing the back panel of the appliance (for freestanding ranges) or the front trim/service panel (for wall ovens). The exact location varies by model — consult your appliance's service diagram before starting. Photograph all wire connections and mounting details before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat (typically two spade-terminal wires). Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the thermostat to the oven cavity, and lift it out. Install the new WP4449751 in the exact same position and orientation — the thermostat must be in good thermal contact with the oven cavity to function correctly. Secure the mounting hardware and reconnect the wires to their correct terminals. Reinstall the access panels. Restore power at the breaker and test the oven — start with a low-temperature bake cycle to confirm normal heating operation before running a high-temperature or self-clean cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, voltage tester (essential), work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Why did my high limit thermostat trip in the first place? A high limit thermostat trips because the oven exceeded its safe operating temperature — meaning something upstream in the temperature control chain failed to shut off the heating element when it should have. Common causes are: a failed oven control board (relay stuck closed), a failed cooling fan (allowing the oven cavity or electronics to overheat), blocked or restricted ventilation, poor door sealing (letting the cavity overheat), disrupted air circulation, or an abnormal self-cleaning cycle. Before installing the new thermostat, investigate and address the underlying cause — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again in short order. Also inspect the ventilation, oven door gasket, and cooling fan while you have the appliance open. What's the difference between a high limit thermostat and the operating thermostat? These are two different components serving two different roles. The operating thermostat (or the oven control board with its temperature sensor) is the primary component that maintains the oven at your set temperature by cycling the heating element on and off during normal operation — it opens and closes at your selected temperature (e.g., 350°F). The high limit thermostat (WP4449751) is a backup safety device that only trips when the oven temperature far exceeds normal operation (335°F over the cavity's safe threshold), typically because the operating thermostat or control has failed. If the high limit thermostat trips, both need to be checked — the operating thermostat may also need replacement. Does the high limit thermostat reset itself, or does it need to be replaced after tripping? The WP4449751 is an auto-reset thermostat — it closes automatically once the oven cools back to a safe temperature, allowing normal operation to resume. If your oven is heating normally again after cooling, the thermostat is likely still functional (the underlying overheating cause needs investigation). However, if the thermostat has failed permanently open — often the result of repeated overheat events or age — it will need replacement. Test with a multimeter set to continuity: a working thermostat shows continuity at room temperature. If it reads open (infinite resistance) when cold, it has failed and needs replacement. Why does my self-cleaning cycle leave the oven door locked and the oven won't heat? This is a classic symptom of a high limit thermostat that tripped during the self-clean cycle. Self-cleaning cycles run at extreme temperatures (800–1000°F) and stress every component in the oven — if the ventilation, door gasket, or cooling fan can't keep up, the high limit thermostat will trip open. Once tripped, the oven can't heat OR unlock the self-clean door lock mechanism, leaving the door stuck closed. Once the thermostat cools and closes (or is replaced), the door lock releases and normal operation resumes. If self-clean cycles routinely trip the thermostat, investigate whether the ventilation, cooling fan, or door gasket are causing the problem. Can I do this repair myself, or should I hire a technician? Replacing an oven high limit thermostat is a manageable DIY repair for someone comfortable with mechanical work and electrical connections, but this is a 240V circuit and the thermostat is a safety component — any error can create a serious safety risk. If you have experience with appliance repair, follow the safety precautions carefully (breaker off, voltage tester, correct thermostat orientation), and can confirm the wiring connections are secure, this is a feasible DIY. If you've never worked with 240V appliance circuits before, hiring a qualified appliance technician is the safer option. Also identify and address whatever caused the original overheat event — otherwise the new thermostat will trip again. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same high limit thermostat installed in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore ovens from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Backed by Whirlpool's one-year warranty on Genuine OEM parts. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DG62-00104A Range Power Burner Nozzle (LP) Nozzle Size: 106  

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DG62-00097A Gas Range Semi-Rapid Burner Nozzle (LP) Nozzle Size: 083 Special Order Part

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DG62-00098A Gas Range Auxiliary Burner Nozzle (LP) Nozzle Size: 062 Special Order Part  

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240597220 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Temperature Sensor The 240597220 is a Genuine OEM Frigidaire replacement refrigerator temperature sensor compatible with a wide range of Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore (253/106/795 prefix), Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, and Ikea refrigerators and household freezers. This NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor continuously monitors the temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer compartment and sends resistance-based readings to the main control board, which uses this data to cycle the compressor, fans, and defrost heaters to maintain accurate temperatures. As the thermistor heats up or cools down, its electrical resistance changes predictably, allowing the control board to calculate the exact temperature in real time. When this sensor fails or drifts out of range, the refrigerator may run too cold or too warm, cycle excessively, freeze up the evaporator, fail to maintain set temperatures, or display OP error codes. Rated 10K Ohm NTC, with a 5/16" diameter probe, 12" wire, and overall dimensions of 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H (sensor probe itself measures ~1-3/16"L x 5/16" diameter). Compatible with 20-28 cubic foot North American household refrigerators in French door, side-by-side, top-freezer, and bottom-freezer configurations (post-2005 production). 240597220 is the current OEM part number, superseding 240597203, 240597201, and 240597202. It also replaces 7240597203, AP4032998, AP7243155, AH1765215, EA1765215, EAP1765215, EAP17647917, 1258948, 4985585, OEM21729470, PD00000590, PD00088922, PS1765215, and PS17647917. Not compatible with mini fridges, car refrigerators, commercial units, wine coolers, or ice makers. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The 240597220 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Temperature Sensor fixes Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, and Ikea refrigerators that run too cold or warm, cycle excessively, freeze up the evaporator, or display OP error codes. NTC thermistor — 10K Ohm at room temperature. 5/16" probe diameter, 12" wire. Overall 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H. Genuine OEM. Supersedes 240597203, 240597201, 240597202. Also replaces 7240597203, AP4032998, AP7243155, AH1765215, EA1765215, EAP1765215, EAP17647917, 1258948, 4985585, OEM21729470, PD00000590, PD00088922, PS1765215, PS17647917. For 20–28 cu ft household refrigerators built 2005 or later. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator running too cold or too warm — sensor not accurately reporting temperature Inconsistent temperatures — fluctuating cooling that can't maintain set point OP error code displayed on the control panel (open sensor circuit) Excessive frost or ice buildup on evaporator coils from erratic defrost timing Refrigerator running continuously without cycling off Freezer over-freezing food or fresh food compartment freezing groceries Food spoilage from temperature instability Multimeter test shows 0 ohms (shorted), infinite resistance (open), or drifted resistance instead of the expected ~10K Ohms at room temperature Replaces Part Numbers This temperature sensor is the current OEM part number and supersedes the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 240597220, 240597203, 240597201, 240597202, 7240597203, 4985585, AFR15666, AP7243155, EAP17647917, OEM21729474, PD00088922, PS17647917. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This temperature sensor is compatible with select household refrigerators and freezers from the following brands (20–28 cu ft, built 2005 or later): Frigidaire refrigerators — Gallery and Professional series, plus standard Frigidaire models (BFHS2611LM, BGHS2634KE, BGHS2634KP, BGHS2644KF, CRSH237LB, PRFG2383AF, PRFC2383AF, ERFG2393AS2, FRSS2323AS8, FFHB2740PP5A and many related models) Frigidaire upright freezers — FFFH21F7QW, FGU19F6QWB and related models Electrolux refrigerators — EI24RD65KS0, EI24RD65HS0, EI24RD65HS1, E24RD75KPS0 and related models Kenmore / Sears refrigerators — 253-prefix, 106-prefix, and 795-prefix models (select Frigidaire/Electrolux-built units) Crosley refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models) White-Westinghouse refrigerators (select models) Kelvinator refrigerators (select models) Gibson refrigerators (select models) Tappan refrigerators (select models) Viking refrigerators (select Frigidaire-platform models) Ikea refrigerators (select Frigidaire-platform models) Not compatible with: mini fridges, car refrigerators, commercial refrigerators/freezers, wine coolers, or dedicated ice makers. Verify your refrigerator was produced after 2005 and check the original part number on the fridge nameplate matches one of the cross-references listed. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor — resistance changes predictably with temperature, allowing precise temperature monitoring Rated 10K Ohms at room temperature (approximately 25°C / 77°F) Sends real-time temperature data to the main control board to regulate compressor cycling, fan operation, and defrost timing Sensor probe: 5/16" diameter x 1-3/16" length · Overall assembly: 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H · 12" wire lead White plastic/metal construction with glossy finish Resolves OP error codes when caused by an open sensor circuit Compatible with 20–28 cu ft French door, side-by-side, top-freezer, and bottom-freezer refrigerators built 2005 or later Current OEM part number — supersedes 240597203, 240597201, 240597202 and replaces AP4032998, AH1765215, PS1765215, PS17647917 and additional cross-references Compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, Ikea Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 240597220 Supersedes 240597203, 240597201, 240597202 Part Type Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor) Condition Genuine OEM Application Household Refrigerators and Freezers (Frigidaire/Electrolux platform, 20–28 cu ft, 2005+) Sensor Type NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) Resistance 10K Ohms at room temperature Probe Dimensions 5/16" Diameter x 1-3/16" Length Overall Dimensions 3-5/8"L x 5/8"W x 5/16"H Wire Length 12" Color White Finish Glossy Material Plastic / Metal Error Codes Resolved OP (open sensor circuit) Compatible Brands Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Depending on your refrigerator model, the fresh-food temperature sensor is typically located behind the air tower or damper assembly on the rear interior wall of the refrigerator compartment; the freezer temperature sensor is typically located behind the rear freezer access panel near the evaporator coils. Confirm which sensor location matches your symptom and the parts diagram for your specific model before starting. Remove all shelves, drawers, and any items blocking access to the sensor location. Remove the screws holding the air tower/damper cover (fresh food side) or rear freezer access panel to expose the sensor. Photograph the sensor position, wire routing, and connector before removing. Disconnect the wire connector (gently — the connector can be fragile) and release the sensor from its mounting clip. Fully insert the new 240597220 sensor probe into the card slot (no exposure) and secure with the mounting clip. Reconnect the wire connector — plug wiring terminals tightly to avoid poor contact. Use cable ties to secure any loose wire routing as before. Reinstall the cover or panel, replace the shelves and drawers, and plug the refrigerator back in. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, cable ties, multimeter (for testing), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What does OP error code mean on my Frigidaire refrigerator? The OP error code (Open) indicates the control board is detecting an open circuit on a temperature sensor input — meaning the sensor is failing to send a resistance signal, either because the sensor itself has failed open internally, the wire has broken, or the connector isn't seated. Replacing the temperature sensor typically resolves the code when the sensor itself is the cause. If the code persists after replacement, check the wire harness between the sensor and the control board for damage, and confirm the connector is fully seated. If the OP code appears alongside other symptoms like frost buildup and cooling issues that persist after sensor replacement, the defrost temperature sensor (on the Harness-Low Side, a different part number) may also need to be replaced, or the main control board may be at fault. How do I test if the temperature sensor has failed? Unplug the refrigerator, disconnect the sensor's wire connector, and set your multimeter to resistance mode. At room temperature (approximately 25°C / 77°F), a working NTC thermistor should read approximately 10K Ohms. If the sensor reads 0 ohms, it has shorted internally. If it reads infinite resistance (open circuit, often shown as "OL" on the multimeter), the sensor has failed open. If it reads significantly off from 10K (for example 8.4K or 5K at room temp), the sensor has drifted and is no longer providing accurate readings — replacement is recommended. Any of these results confirms the sensor needs replacement. My refrigerator has multiple temperature sensors — which one do I replace? Frigidaire refrigerators typically use multiple temperature sensors: one in the fresh food compartment (behind the air tower/damper), one in the freezer compartment (near the evaporator coils), and often a separate defrost temperature sensor on the Harness-Low Side. The 240597203 is used as the fresh food or freezer compartment temperature sensor. If your symptom is "fresh food too warm" or "freezer over-freezing," the fresh food sensor is the likely candidate. If your symptom is "freezer icing up despite defrost heater working," the defrost temperature sensor may be the culprit — a different part number. Check your refrigerator's parts diagram to confirm the correct sensor location for your specific symptom. Does this sensor fit my Kenmore refrigerator? On many Kenmore refrigerators, yes — Sears sells Kenmore-branded refrigerators that are manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux, Whirlpool, LG, and Samsung. The 240597203 sensor fits Kenmore refrigerators with model numbers beginning with the 253, 106, or 795 prefixes that are Frigidaire/Electrolux-built. Kenmore refrigerators built by other manufacturers (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung) use different sensors. Check the first three digits of your Kenmore model number — if it's 253, 106, or 795 and falls within the compatible model list, this is the correct part. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications. It is the exact same temperature sensor installed in compatible Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Viking, and Ikea refrigerators from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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 TJGC20C-3131-48 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Coated Stainless Steel Gas Connector 1/2" MIP x 1/2" MIP (48" Length)   Description This 1/2 inch OD, 3/8 inch ID, durable, corrosion resistant stainless steel gas connector is configured with 1/2 inch MIP x 1/2 inch MIP adapters and is 48 inches in length. This CSA approved Safety Shield(R) gas connector features a premium antimicrobial coating to inhibit bacteria growth, improve corrosion and UV protection, and enhance flame and smoke resistance. The yellow coating is an industry recognized color for gas lines and provides extra corrosion protection from accidental contact with harmful chemicals that may be found in household products. It is commonly used for the installation of home appliances such as gas dryers and water heaters.   Features Designed and certified by CSA for indoor and outdoor use Premium antimicrobial coating for increased safety, durability, and longevity Limited lifetime warranty 100 Percent factory leak tested 304 Stainless steel Specs – Outlet Type: MIP Material: Stainless Steel Application: Plumbing OD: 1/2" Product Type: Gas Valve ID: 3/8" Size: 1/2" Connection Type: MIP x MIP Length: 48" Length (Inches): 48" Inlet Type: MIP        

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5304524953 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly The 5304524953 is a Genuine OEM Frigidaire/Electrolux replacement defrost heater assembly compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and upright freezers — including the popular Frigidaire Professional 19 cu. ft. single-door models in the FPRU19F8 and FPFU19F8 series. The defrost heater is mounted near the evaporator coils and periodically activates during the dishwasher's defrost cycle to melt frost buildup that accumulates on the coils. Without functioning defrost, frost continues to build up on the evaporator until it blocks airflow — causing the refrigerator or freezer to lose cooling efficiency, run continuously, and ultimately fail to maintain set temperatures. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications, the 5304524953 directly replaces 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, and 4975045. Tip: when replacing the defrost heater, it's a good time to also inspect or replace the paired defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board — these three components form the defrost system and often fail in sequence. Addressing them together saves a future repair. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The 5304524953 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly fixes Frigidaire and related-brand refrigerators and upright freezers with excessive frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils, freezer or fresh food section too warm, refrigerator running continuously, or food spoiling faster than normal. Genuine OEM. Replaces 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, 4975045. Compatible with Frigidaire Professional FPRU19F8WF0/WF2/WF3/WF4/WF5 and FPFU19F8WF2/WF4/WF5 series, plus Crosley, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built models. Often paired with defrost thermostat replacement. Common Problems This Part Fixes Excessive frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils Freezer section too warm — evaporator coils iced over and blocking airflow Refrigerator section too warm — cold air not circulating because coils are frosted Refrigerator/freezer running continuously without reaching set temperature Food spoiling faster than normal due to inadequate cooling Visible ice sheet on the rear interior wall of the freezer compartment Defrost heater visibly burned through, broken, or showing arcing damage Multimeter continuity test on the heater shows an open circuit (no continuity) Replaces Part Numbers This defrost heater assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 5304524953, 5304523833, 140223390018, 4975045, AFR19119, AP6997296, EAP16227227, PD00083605, PS16227227. 5304524953 is the current production part superseding 5304523833. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This defrost heater assembly is compatible with select refrigerators and upright freezers from the following brands: Frigidaire Professional refrigerators — FPRU19F8WF0, FPRU19F8WF2, FPRU19F8WF3, FPRU19F8WF4, FPRU19F8WF5 series (19 cu. ft. single-door) Frigidaire Professional upright freezers — FPFU19F8WF2, FPFU19F8WF4, FPFU19F8WF5 series Frigidaire refrigerators — FPRU19F7WF0 and related FPRU/FPFU series models Electrolux refrigerators and freezers — select Frigidaire-platform models Crosley refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models) Gibson refrigerators (select models) Kelvinator refrigerators (select models) Tappan refrigerators (select models) Westinghouse refrigerators (select models) Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models) White-Westinghouse refrigerators (select models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Defrost heater assembly — periodically melts frost buildup on the evaporator coils to maintain proper airflow and cooling efficiency Direct factory-original replacement — no modifications required Current production part — directly supersedes 5304523833 Replaces AP6997296, PS16227227, and 4975045 (plus 5304523833) Compatible with Frigidaire Professional FPRU19F8 and FPFU19F8 series, plus Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and upright freezers Often replaced together with the defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board as a paired defrost-system repair DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 5304524953 Supersedes 5304523833 Part Type Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Heater Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Refrigerators and Upright Freezers (Frigidaire/Electrolux platform) Location Mounted near the evaporator coils Approximate Weight 1.60 lbs Often Paired With Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Timer/Control Board Compatible Brands Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Don't Touch Heater with Bare Hands Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Handle the new heater only by its mounting brackets or end terminals — do NOT touch the heating element directly with bare fingers; skin oils can cause hot spots and shorten the heater's life. The defrost heater is mounted near the evaporator coils, behind the rear interior access panel of the freezer compartment. Remove all freezer shelves, drawers, and the ice maker (if equipped) to clear access. If there's a heavy ice sheet covering the back wall, allow the freezer to thaw completely or carefully manually defrost the coils before continuing — never break ice off the coils, as this damages the aluminum fins. Once the area is clear, remove the screws securing the rear access panel and lift it away to expose the evaporator coils and the defrost heater. Photograph the wire connections and heater orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the old heater, release the heater from its mounting clips or brackets, and lift it out. Install the new 5304524953 heater in the same position, ensuring it's properly seated in the mounting brackets, and reconnect the wire harness. While the panel is open, inspect the defrost thermostat for damage — if it's brittle, discolored, or shows visible defects, this is the ideal time to replace it as well. Reinstall the rear access panel, shelves, drawers, and ice maker. Plug the refrigerator back in and allow several hours for the unit to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if the defrost heater has failed? The most reliable sign is heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils behind the freezer back panel — when the heater can't melt the frost as designed, ice accumulates until it blocks airflow and cooling efficiency drops. You may also notice the freezer or fresh food section running warm, the compressor running continuously, or food spoiling faster than normal. To confirm with the refrigerator unplugged: remove the rear freezer access panel, disconnect the heater's wire harness, and test the heater's terminals with a multimeter set to continuity mode. A working heater shows continuity (low resistance); a failed heater shows an open circuit (infinite resistance). If you measure no continuity, the heater has burned out and needs replacement. Should I replace the defrost thermostat and timer at the same time? Yes, it's strongly recommended. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and defrost timer/control board work together as a system — the timer (or control board on newer models) initiates the defrost cycle, the thermostat monitors the temperature at the coils and terminates the cycle when the coils are above freezing, and the heater provides the heat that melts the frost. When one component fails, the others have typically experienced similar age and stress, and a near-term failure of another defrost component is common. Since the rear access panel must already be off and the components are right next to each other, replacing all three in a single session prevents a repeat repair down the road. Should I manually defrost my freezer before installing the new heater? If there's significant ice buildup on the evaporator coils or rear wall, yes — you need to clear it before installing the new heater. Leave the freezer empty and unplugged with the door open for 12–24 hours (or longer for heavy ice) to let everything thaw naturally. Place towels at the base to catch melt water. Do NOT chip or pry ice off the evaporator coils with any tool — the aluminum fins damage easily and a damaged coil is a far more expensive repair. Once everything is fully thawed and dried, you can proceed with the heater replacement. My refrigerator/freezer has multiple defrost heater-related part numbers — which one do I need? Frigidaire/Electrolux uses different defrost heater part numbers across different generations and models. The 5304524953 is specifically used in the Frigidaire Professional 19 cu. ft. single-door FPRU19F8 series refrigerators and FPFU19F8 series upright freezers, plus a smaller set of related Frigidaire-platform models. Before ordering, confirm your refrigerator or freezer's model number is in the compatibility list above, or check your appliance's parts diagram to verify that 5304524953 (or one of its cross-references 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, 4975045) is the correct part for your specific model. If your unit is a side-by-side, French door, or other style, you may need a different defrost heater. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications. It is the exact same defrost heater assembly installed in compatible Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and freezers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WH01X24378 Washer / Dryer Cycle Selector Knob The XPARTCO WH01X24378 is an aftermarket replacement cycle selector knob (options knob) compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers and dryers. The selector knob is one of the primary user controls on the appliance's control panel — it's what you grip and turn to choose the wash or dry options and settings for each load. On many GE-platform washers and dryers, this smaller selector knob works alongside a larger main timer/cycle knob to give you fine-grained control over the specific options within your selected cycle. Over time, selector knobs wear out from repeated twisting motions, get cracked or dropped, or lose their grip on the internal shaft — all of which make it difficult or impossible to change the appliance's settings. Constructed from heat-resistant plastic with a clean white and chrome finish. Snap-on installation — no tools required. Pulls straight off the control shaft and pushes back on. This knob directly replaces WH01X24378, AP5986397, 4396548, and PS11726904. Important: this is the smaller cycle selector/options knob. If you need the larger main timer knob for your GE washer, that's a different part number (PS11736611) — check which knob is broken before ordering. Installs in under 1 minute — no tools required. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WH01X24378 Washer Cycle Selector Knob replaces a cracked, loose, stripped, or missing selector knob on GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers and dryers. Heat-resistant plastic, white and chrome finish. Snap-on installation — pulls straight off, pushes back on. Replaces AP5986397, 4396548, PS11726904. This is the smaller cycle/options knob — NOT the larger main timer knob (PS11736611). No tools required. Common Problems This Part Fixes Selector knob cracked, broken, or split from age and repeated use Knob loose and slipping on the control shaft — no longer changes settings when turned Knob has stripped or damaged internal grip and won't stay coupled to the shaft Knob missing entirely from the control panel Knob damaged from impact — dropped or bumped Knob discolored, faded, or worn from years of daily handling Difficulty selecting cycle options — knob no longer clicks into detent positions cleanly Water or detergent damage to the knob material Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This cycle selector knob directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH01X24378, 4396548, AGE26094, AP5986397, EAP11726904, OEM17959200, PD00037085, PS11726904. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This selector knob is compatible with select washers and dryers from the following brands: GE washers — GTW500ASNWS and related top-load models GE dryers — GTX42GASJWW, GTD45GASJ2WS and related models GE Profile and GE Café washers and dryers (select models) GE Monogram washers and dryers (select models) Hotpoint washers and dryers (select models) RCA washers and dryers (select GE-built models) Haier washers and dryers (select models using GE-platform controls) Important — Two Knobs, Two Part Numbers: Many GE washers and dryers have TWO knobs on the control panel: a larger main timer/cycle knob and a smaller cycle selector/options knob. The WH01X24378 is the smaller cycle selector/options knob. If your broken knob is the larger main timer knob, you need a different part number (PS11736611 on many GE models). Before ordering, visually confirm which knob is broken and compare the size and shape to the images. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Cycle selector/options knob — used to choose specific settings within your selected wash or dry cycle Snap-on installation — pulls straight off the control shaft, pushes straight back on; no tools or hardware required Heat-resistant plastic construction — designed for years of daily use without warping or cracking Clean white and chrome finish complements GE appliance styling Ergonomic shape for comfortable grip and precise cycle selection Restores full cycle control when the original knob has cracked, stripped, or gone missing Replaces WH01X24378, AP5986397, 4396548, and PS11726904 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers and dryers Important: this is the smaller cycle selector/options knob — NOT the larger main timer knob (PS11736611, sold separately) Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick replacement — installs in under 1 minute Product Specifications Part Number XPWH01X24378 Part Type Washer/Dryer Cycle Selector Knob (Options Knob) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Washers and Dryers (GE platform) Knob Size Smaller cycle/options knob (NOT the larger main timer knob) Color White / Chrome Material Heat-resistant plastic Installation Snap-on — no tools required Larger Timer Knob Different part — PS11736611 (sold separately) Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, Café Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer/Dryer Before Starting — Quick Toolless Replacement Disconnect power before beginning as a general safety precaution. Wear work gloves if desired. Locate the old cycle selector knob on the control panel of your washer or dryer. Grip the knob firmly and pull it straight off the control shaft — it should come off with a moderate pull (no tools or hardware required). If the knob is stuck or the internal grip has stripped and it's spinning without releasing, use a soft cloth wrapped around it for better grip, or gently pry it off with a plastic tool (avoid metal tools that could damage the control panel finish). Once the old knob is off, inspect the metal or plastic control shaft — if it's damaged, worn round, or spinning freely with no resistance, the underlying switch or shaft may also need replacement. If the shaft is intact, align the new WH01X24378 knob with the flat sides of the shaft (the knob has a matching D-shape or flat receiver inside) and push it firmly into place until it seats fully. Rotate the knob through its full range of positions to confirm it clicks into detents cleanly and turns smoothly. Restore power and run a test cycle. Tools needed: None (soft cloth optional). Frequently Asked Questions Is this the smaller or larger knob on my GE washer? The WH01X24378 is the smaller cycle selector (options) knob. Many GE washers and dryers have two knobs on the control panel: a larger main timer/cycle knob that selects the primary wash program, and a smaller cycle options knob (this one) that selects sub-options like temperature, spin speed, or soil level. Before ordering, look at your control panel and identify which knob has failed — if the smaller knob is broken, this is the correct part. If the larger main timer knob is broken, you need a different part (PS11736611 on many GE models). The two knobs are not interchangeable. How do I remove the old knob if it's cracked or spinning without coming off? If the internal grip on the old knob has stripped and it's spinning freely on the shaft without releasing, wrap a soft cloth around it for extra grip and pull firmly straight up. If that still doesn't work, gently pry it off with a plastic pry tool (a plastic putty knife or credit card can work). Avoid metal tools that could scratch the control panel finish. If the knob is cracked, you can sometimes break away the broken pieces to expose the internal grip on the shaft, then work each piece off. Once the old knob is off, inspect the control shaft — if it's damaged or spinning without resistance, the underlying switch may need replacement too. Do I really not need any tools for this? Correct — the WH01X24378 uses a snap-on installation with no screws or hardware. To install, align the new knob with the flat side (D-shape) of the control shaft and push it straight down until it seats fully. The whole replacement typically takes under a minute. Just make sure the knob is fully seated and rotates through all positions with the correct detent clicks before you plug the appliance back in. The knob installs fine but my washer still doesn't change settings — what next? If the new knob is installed correctly (fully seated and rotates through positions with detent clicks) but changing the knob position doesn't change the cycle behavior, the underlying selector switch or control shaft has likely failed — not the knob. Common causes include the shaft spinning freely without engaging the switch inside (the shaft has stripped or broken), or the electrical selector switch itself has failed. In these cases, replacing just the knob won't fix the problem — the switch assembly behind the panel also needs to be replaced. Contact our support team with your model number for the correct switch part number. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured from heat-resistant plastic to match the dimensions, D-shape shaft receiver, snap-on installation, and cycle selection function of the original WH01X24378 selector knob used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers and dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DA32-00029X Genuine OEM Samsung Refrigerator Temperature Sensor The DA32-00029X is a Genuine OEM Samsung replacement refrigerator temperature sensor compatible with select Samsung side-by-side and French door refrigerators, as well as related Kenmore Samsung-built models. This NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor continuously monitors the temperature inside the refrigerator and sends resistance-based readings to the electronic control board, which uses this data to cycle the compressor, fans, and defrost heaters to maintain accurate, consistent temperatures throughout the appliance. As the thermistor heats up or cools down, its electrical resistance changes predictably, allowing the control board to calculate the exact temperature in real time. When this sensor fails — whether shorted, open, or providing drifted/inaccurate readings — the refrigerator may run too cold or too warm, cycle excessively, fail to maintain set temperatures, run continuously, ice up the evaporator, or display temperature-related fault codes. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Samsung to factory specifications, the DA32-00029X is rated approximately 13.2 kΩ at 20°C (68°F) when functioning correctly. It is one of the variants in the DA32-00029 sensor family — Samsung uses different production-run variants (M, N, Q, U, X) across model generations, all functionally similar but with different wire harness connectors. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The DA32-00029X Genuine OEM Samsung Refrigerator Temperature Sensor fixes Samsung side-by-side and French door refrigerators that run too cold or warm, cycle excessively, freeze up the evaporator, fail to maintain set temperatures, or display temperature-related fault codes. Genuine OEM Samsung NTC thermistor — approximately 13.2 kΩ at 20°C (68°F). One of the DA32-00029 series variants (M, N, Q, U, X) — confirm your specific variant by connector style before ordering. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator running too cold or too warm — sensor not accurately reporting temperature to the control board Inconsistent temperatures — fluctuating cooling that can't maintain set point Excessive or frequent defrost cycles — control board misreading temperature Refrigerator running continuously without cycling off Heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils caused by erratic defrost timing Food spoilage from temperature instability Temperature-related error codes displayed on the control panel Multimeter test shows 0 ohms (shorted) or infinite resistance (open) instead of the expected ~13.2 kΩ at room temperature Replaces Part Numbers This temperature sensor directly replaces the following Samsung part number: DA32-00029X, EAP16732853, FIX16732853, ASM30292, AP7188139, OEM21564426, PD00090960, PS16732853. The DA32-00029X is part of the broader DA32-00029 sensor family — variants M, N, Q, U, and X are functionally similar Samsung temperature sensors used across different model generations, but with different wire harness connector configurations. They are not automatically interchangeable — match the variant suffix (or the connector style) to your refrigerator. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This temperature sensor is compatible with select Samsung side-by-side and French door refrigerators, including: Samsung side-by-side refrigerators (select models in the RS-series with the matching DA32-00029X connector) Samsung 3-door French door refrigerators in 17.5 cu. ft., 19.5 cu. ft., and related capacities (Black Stainless Steel, Black, White, and Stainless Look finishes) Samsung 4-door French door refrigerators (select RF-series models with the matching DA32-00029X connector) Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Samsung-built models) Important — Match the Variant to Your Refrigerator: Samsung uses several variants of the DA32-00029 temperature sensor (M, N, Q, U, X) across different model generations. The sensors are similar in function and resistance value, but the wire harness connectors differ — using the wrong variant means the connector won't fit. Before ordering, verify your refrigerator's parts diagram specifies DA32-00029X (not DA32-00029M, N, Q, or U), or visually confirm the connector on your old sensor matches the new one. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Samsung to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor — resistance changes predictably with temperature, allowing precise temperature monitoring Sends real-time temperature data to the control board to regulate compressor cycling, fan operation, and defrost timing Approximately 13.2 kΩ of resistance at 20°C (68°F) when functioning correctly Wire harness with connector attached for direct plug-in installation (variant-specific connector — see compatibility note) One of the DA32-00029 series variants (M, N, Q, U, X) — match to your refrigerator's variant suffix Compatible with select Samsung side-by-side, 3-door French door, and 4-door French door refrigerators, plus Kenmore Samsung-built models Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number DA32-00029X Part Type Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor) Condition Genuine OEM Application Side-by-Side and French Door Refrigerators (Samsung platform) Sensor Type NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) Resistance at 20°C Approximately 13.2 kΩ (68°F) Variant Family DA32-00029 (M, N, Q, U, X variants) Compatible Brands Samsung, Kenmore (Samsung-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Samsung refrigerators typically have multiple temperature sensors — fresh food compartment, freezer compartment, and evaporator/defrost sensors — confirm which sensor location matches your symptom and parts diagram before starting. The fresh food and freezer sensors are typically clipped to a wall or shelf bracket inside each compartment, while evaporator/defrost sensors are mounted near the evaporator coils behind a rear access panel. Take a photo of the sensor mounting and wire routing before removing. Disconnect the sensor's wire connector (gently — the molex connectors can be fragile) and release the sensor from its mounting clip. Inspect the connector for corrosion or heat discoloration on the wires — discoloration indicates prior overheating in that area. Install the new DA32-00029X sensor in the same position, reseat the connector firmly, and secure the mounting clip. Restore power, allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature, and confirm stable temperature operation before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, multimeter (for testing), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if the temperature sensor has failed? Unplug the refrigerator, disconnect the sensor's connector, and set your multimeter to resistance mode. At room temperature (around 20°C/68°F), a working NTC thermistor should read approximately 13.2 kΩ. If the sensor reads 0 ohms, it has shorted internally. If it reads infinite resistance (open circuit, often shown as "OL" on the multimeter), the sensor has failed open. Either reading confirms the sensor needs replacement. If the sensor reads close to 13.2 kΩ at room temperature but the refrigerator still has temperature problems, the control board or another sensor in the system may be the actual cause. My Samsung refrigerator has multiple temperature sensors — which one do I replace? Samsung refrigerators typically use multiple temperature sensors: one in the fresh food compartment, one in the freezer compartment, and one near the evaporator coils (often called the defrost sensor). The DA32-00029X is used as the fresh food or freezer compartment temperature sensor on select Samsung models. Confirm the exact mounting location for your specific symptom (e.g., fresh food too warm vs. freezer too cold) and your refrigerator's parts diagram before ordering. The evaporator/defrost sensor is typically a different part number, so don't assume the DA32-00029X covers all sensor positions. What is the difference between DA32-00029X and DA32-00029M, N, Q, or U? These are all variants of the same Samsung refrigerator temperature sensor family. They share the same NTC thermistor design and resistance characteristics (approximately 13.2 kΩ at 20°C), but use different wire harness connector configurations to match different refrigerator generations and wiring designs. The X variant is used on select Samsung side-by-side and French door models, while M, N, Q, and U variants appear on other model groups. They are not automatically interchangeable — match the variant to your refrigerator's exact part diagram, or visually compare connector styles before ordering. My Samsung fridge is icing up the back wall — could this be the sensor? Possibly, yes. If the temperature sensor near the evaporator (the defrost sensor) is misreporting temperature, the control board may not trigger the defrost cycle when needed, allowing ice to build up on the evaporator coils. Eventually this ice migrates to the rear interior wall as a frozen sheet. If your symptom is back-wall icing combined with poor cooling, the evaporator sensor is a likely cause — but confirm whether the DA32-00029X is the evaporator sensor on your specific model, or whether your model uses a different part number for that position. Always verify against your model's parts diagram. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Samsung to factory specifications. It is the exact same temperature sensor installed in compatible Samsung side-by-side and French door refrigerators (and Kenmore Samsung-built models) from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 8318314 Dryer Thermal Cutoff Fuse (352°F) The XPARTCO 8318314 is an aftermarket replacement 352°F thermal cutoff fuse compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Inglis, and Estate dryers. The thermal cutoff fuse is a critical safety device mounted near the heating element housing — it acts as a backup safety in case the high-limit thermostat fails to open. When the air temperature inside the heating element area reaches 352°F, the fuse permanently opens and cuts power to the heater circuit, preventing the dryer from continuing to overheat and creating a fire risk. This is a one-time fuse — once it has tripped, it cannot be reset and must be replaced. White and gray metal/ceramic construction. Dimensions: 1-1/4"L x 1-1/4"W x 2-3/16"H, with approximately 1-5/8" between mounting holes (center to center). It directly replaces 8318314. Important: when the thermal cutoff blows, the high-limit thermostat (8557403 — sold separately) is often also stressed and should be tested or replaced at the same time. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 8318314 Dryer Thermal Cutoff Fuse (352°F) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Inglis, and Estate dryers that suddenly stopped heating after an overheat event. One-time fuse — 352°F open, must be replaced once blown. 1-1/4"L x 1-1/4"W x 2-3/16"H, ~1-5/8" between mounting holes. Metal/ceramic. Often replaced alongside the high-limit thermostat (8557403, sold separately). Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer suddenly stopped heating with no warning — thermal cutoff has blown after an overheat event Dryer runs and tumbles normally but produces no heat No-heat fault following a partially blocked exhaust vent or restricted airflow event Multimeter continuity test shows the cutoff has an open circuit (no continuity) Visible damage or discoloration around the thermal cutoff housing from a prior overheat event Repeated no-heat problems where the thermal cutoff has tripped more than once Replaces Part Numbers This thermal cutoff fuse directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 8318314 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This 352°F thermal cutoff fuse is compatible with select dryers from the following brands: Whirlpool dryers (Elite, Cabrio, Duet, and WED series — select models including WED9200, WED7300, WED7400, WED7600 and related) Maytag dryers (Maxima and MED series — select models including MED3500, MED6000XW, MEDE900VW and related) KitchenAid dryers (select models) Kenmore / Sears dryers — Elite 110-series and related Whirlpool-built models Amana dryers — NED and YNED series (select models including NED7500VW1 and related) Crosley dryers (CED series and related models) Roper dryers (select models) Inglis dryers (select models) Estate dryers (select models) Important — Check Vent Before Restarting: A blown thermal cutoff is almost always the result of restricted dryer airflow. Before replacing this fuse and restoring service, thoroughly clean the dryer's exhaust vent line all the way to the exterior wall outlet, the lint screen, and any internal lint buildup. Installing a new thermal cutoff without fixing the underlying airflow problem will cause the new fuse to blow within a short time, repeating the failure. Key Features 352°F one-time safety fuse — permanently opens to cut power to the heater circuit if the dryer overheats Backup safety device — protects against overheating in case the high-limit thermostat fails to open Cannot be reset — must be replaced once blown Dimensions: 1-1/4"L x 1-1/4"W x 2-3/16"H; approximately 1-5/8" between mounting holes (center to center) Metal and ceramic construction in white/gray Often replaced together with the high-limit thermostat (8557403, sold separately) as a paired safety repair Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Inglis, and Estate dryers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 8318314 Part Type Dryer Thermal Cutoff Fuse (Safety Fuse) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Electric and Gas Dryers (Whirlpool platform) Trip Temperature 352°F Fuse Type One-Time (must be replaced once blown — cannot be reset) Dimensions 1-1/4"L x 1-1/4"W x 2-3/16"H Mounting Hole Spacing Approx. 1-5/8" center to center Color White / Gray Material Metal / Ceramic Often Replaced With High-Limit Thermostat (8557403, sold separately) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Inglis, Estate Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — Clean Vent System First Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Before installing the new thermal cutoff, thoroughly clean the dryer's vent line — from the lint screen through the duct to the exterior wall outlet, plus any internal lint buildup around the heater housing. A blown thermal cutoff is virtually always caused by restricted airflow; if you don't fix the underlying cause, the new fuse will trip again soon. Access the thermal cutoff by removing the rear (or front, depending on model) access panel of the dryer to expose the heating element housing. The 8318314 thermal cutoff is mounted on or near the heater housing. Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Disconnect the wires from the old cutoff and remove the mounting screw(s). Install the new 8318314 cutoff in the same position and reconnect the wires. While the panel is open, this is also the ideal time to test or replace the high-limit thermostat (8557403) — overheat events that blow this fuse often damage that component too. Reassemble the panel, restore power, and run a test heat cycle to confirm normal heat operation. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, multimeter, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What's the difference between a thermal cutoff, a thermal fuse, and a high-limit thermostat? All three are safety components in a dryer's heating circuit but they serve different roles. The high-limit thermostat (such as 8557403 or 3391914) is a resettable safety switch — it opens when the air gets too hot, then closes again automatically once it cools. The thermal cutoff (8318314, 352°F) is a one-time fuse on the heating element circuit — it blows permanently if the temperature exceeds 352°F, meaning the high-limit thermostat failed to do its job. The thermal fuse (often 3392519) is a separate one-time fuse mounted on the exhaust duct — it blows if exhaust airflow temperature exceeds its rating. Each protects against a different failure mode and is replaced individually when it blows. Why did my thermal cutoff blow in the first place? A blown thermal cutoff is almost always the result of restricted airflow through the dryer. The most common causes are: a clogged or kinked exhaust vent line, a clogged lint screen, lint buildup inside the dryer cabinet near the heater housing, or a failed blower wheel/motor that's not moving enough air. Less commonly, a failed high-limit thermostat (stuck closed) can let the dryer overheat until the thermal cutoff blows as a last-resort safety. Before replacing this part, identify and fix the underlying airflow issue — otherwise the new fuse will blow within a short time. Should I replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time? Yes, it's highly recommended. The thermal cutoff is the second line of defense against overheating — for it to trip, the high-limit thermostat ahead of it likely failed to open at its normal cycling temperature, was stressed by the overheat event, or was already weakened. Replacing the high-limit thermostat (8557403 on many compatible Whirlpool-platform dryers) at the same time is standard practice and ensures both safety components work correctly together. The 279973 kit even bundles a thermal cutoff with a high-limit thermostat for this reason. Can the thermal cutoff be reset like a circuit breaker? No — the 8318314 is a one-time thermal fuse. Once it opens at 352°F, it permanently breaks the electrical circuit and cannot be reset. Some appliance components (like a high-limit thermostat) can reset automatically as they cool, but a thermal cutoff fuse is a single-use safety device by design. If your dryer suddenly stopped heating and a continuity test on this fuse shows an open circuit, it must be replaced. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured from metal and ceramic with the same 352°F trip temperature, dimensions (1-1/4"L x 1-1/4"W x 2-3/16"H), and mounting hole spacing (1-5/8" center to center) as the original 8318314 thermal cutoff fuse. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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