W10341320 (OE) Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve
The W10341320 (OE) is an Original Equipment (OE) replacement dual secondary water inlet valve compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators. This dual-solenoid valve controls water flow to two destinations — the refrigerator's water dispenser and the ice maker. Each solenoid opens independently when the control board calls for water at that destination, and closes the moment the call is dropped. When one or both solenoids fail, you lose water at the dispenser, ice production stops or slows, or the valve begins leaking at its connections.
Rated 110/120V, 50/60Hz. Dual solenoid: W1 = 20W, W2 = 35W. Important: this is the SECONDARY valve, not the primary water inlet valve — many Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators use both, and if your primary valve is working fine but you're still losing water or ice, the secondary valve is the likely culprit. It directly replaces WPW10341320, AP6019939, PS11753250, EAP11753250, 1937969, and K-78032. Common repair for leaks at the valve connections. Installs in about 30 minutes with basic hand tools and novice repair experience.
Quick Answer
The W10341320 (OE) Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators with no water through the door, an ice maker that won't make ice or makes too little ice, or leaking at the valve connections. Dual secondary valve — dual solenoid (W1=20W, W2=35W), 110/120V, 50/60Hz. Original Equipment (OE) — same design and performance as the factory part, without the OEM label. Replaces WPW10341320, AP6019939, PS11753250, EAP11753250, 1937969, K-78032. This is the SECONDARY valve — not the primary water inlet valve (W10238100).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
- No water dispensing through the door — dispenser solenoid failed
- Ice maker not making ice — ice maker solenoid failed
- Ice maker dispensing too little ice — solenoid partially failed or restricted
- Water leaking from the valve or its connections
- Water dispenser works but ice maker doesn't (or vice versa) — one of the two solenoids has failed
- Weak or slow water flow at the dispenser
- Ice cubes coming out hollow, small, or misshapen from insufficient water fill
- Valve buzzing or humming without opening
- Primary valve tests fine but the refrigerator still won't dispense water or make ice
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dual secondary water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10341320, WPW10341320, AP6019939, AWP49977, PD00004978, PS11753250, EAP11753250, 1937969, K-78032
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Note: the primary water inlet valve on many of these refrigerators is a different part (W10238100 / WPW10238100) — see the FAQ below on primary vs secondary valves.
Compatibility
This dual secondary water inlet valve is compatible with select side-by-side refrigerators from the following brands:
- Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators — select models (verify with parts diagram)
- Maytag side-by-side refrigerators — MSB26C6MDE00/DE02, MSB26C6MDH00/DH02, MSB26C6MDM00/DM02, MSB27C2XAB00, MSB27C2XAM00, MSB27C2XAW00, MSC21C6MDM00/DM02, MSC21C6MEZ00, MSC21C6MFZ00, MSS26C6MEZ00, MSS26C6MFB00/FB01, MSS26C6MFW00 and related models
- Jenn-Air side-by-side refrigerators — JSC23C9EEM00, JSC24C8EAM00/AM01/AM02 and related models
- KitchenAid side-by-side refrigerators — select models
- Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper side-by-side refrigerators — select Whirlpool-built models
- Kenmore / Sears side-by-side refrigerators — select Whirlpool-built models
Important — This Is the SECONDARY Valve, Not the Primary: Many Whirlpool-platform side-by-side refrigerators use TWO water inlet valves: a primary valve (typically W10238100 / WPW10238100) where the household water line enters the refrigerator, and this dual secondary valve (W10341320) that splits flow between the dispenser and the ice maker. If your primary valve is functioning correctly but you're still not getting water or ice, the secondary valve is the likely culprit. Before ordering, confirm which valve your refrigerator's parts diagram calls for at the position you're replacing. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
- Original Equipment (OE) replacement — produced to the same design and performance standards as the factory part but not sold under the appliance brand's OEM label; provides the same fit and function at a more affordable price
- Dual secondary water inlet valve — supplies water to both the refrigerator's water dispenser and the ice maker
- Dual-solenoid design: each solenoid opens independently when the control board calls for water at that destination
- Electrical specs: 110/120V, 50/60Hz · W1 = 20W, W2 = 35W
- Resolves "no water through door," "ice maker doesn't make ice," "too little ice," and "leaking at connections" symptoms
- Common fix for leaks at the valve's water line connections
- Replaces WPW10341320, AP6019939, PS11753250, EAP11753250, 1937969, and K-78032
- Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators
- Note: this is the SECONDARY valve — the primary water inlet valve is a different part (W10238100)
- DIY repair — installs in about 30 minutes with basic hand tools and novice repair experience
Product Specifications
| Part Number |
W10341320-OE |
| Designation |
OE (Original Equipment) |
| OEM Part Number |
WPW10341320 |
| Part Type |
Refrigerator Dual Secondary Water Inlet Valve |
| Condition |
OE Replacement |
| Application |
Side-by-Side Refrigerators (Whirlpool platform) |
| Valve Position |
SECONDARY (not the primary inlet valve) |
| Solenoids |
Dual — W1 = 20W, W2 = 35W |
| Voltage |
110/120V |
| Frequency |
50/60 Hz |
| Supplies Water To |
Water dispenser + Ice maker |
| Related Part |
Primary Water Inlet Valve (W10238100 / WPW10238100, sold separately) |
| Compatible Brands |
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore |
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator (or shut off the house circuit breaker for the appliance) and turn off the refrigerator's water supply at the shutoff valve before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Safely store any food that could spoil during the repair. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the lines and will spill when disconnected. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear. The secondary water inlet valve is typically mounted at the back of the refrigerator, downstream of the primary valve where the household water line enters. Photograph the water line and wire harness connections before disconnecting anything — with two solenoids and multiple water lines, correct reconnection matters. Disconnect the water lines from the valve (use a 1/2" wrench where needed) and catch any residual water with a towel. Disconnect the electrical connectors from both solenoids. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve bracket in place and lift out the old valve. Install the new W10341320 (OE) valve in the same position and orientation, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the water lines — tighten fittings snugly without over-torquing. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the correct solenoids, matching your photos. Turn the water supply back on and check every connection for leaks BEFORE pushing the refrigerator back into place. Restore power. Run water through the dispenser for a few minutes to purge air from the lines, and discard the first few batches of ice. Tools needed: Multi-screwdriver, 1/2" wrench, nut driver, towels, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "OE" mean and how is it different from Genuine OEM?
OE (Original Equipment) parts are produced to the same design and performance standards as the original factory part, but they are not sold under the appliance brand's OEM label. They provide the same fit and function as the OEM part at a more affordable price. The W10341320 (OE) water inlet valve matches the electrical specifications (110/120V, 50/60Hz, dual solenoid W1=20W / W2=35W), dual-secondary valve design, connections, and physical fit of the original Whirlpool OEM part, and installs identically. The main difference from a Genuine OEM Whirlpool part is the branding and warranty — the OE version delivers equivalent performance without the OEM price premium.
What's the difference between the primary and secondary water inlet valve?
Many Whirlpool-platform side-by-side refrigerators use two water inlet valves working in series. The primary valve (typically W10238100 / WPW10238100) is where the household water supply line first enters the refrigerator — it's the main gatekeeper for water entering the appliance. The secondary valve (this W10341320) sits downstream and splits that flow between the water dispenser and the ice maker via its two independent solenoids. Both can fail independently. The key diagnostic: if the primary valve is working correctly (water is reaching the refrigerator) but you're still not getting water at the dispenser or ice from the ice maker, the secondary valve is the likely culprit. Check your model's parts diagram to confirm which valve you need.
My water dispenser works but the ice maker doesn't — can this still be the valve?
Yes, absolutely. This is a dual-solenoid valve — one solenoid feeds the water dispenser, the other feeds the ice maker. They fail independently. If your dispenser works fine but the ice maker isn't getting water (no ice, or hollow/small cubes), the ice maker solenoid on this valve may have failed while the dispenser solenoid still works. The reverse is also true. Before replacing the valve, also verify the ice maker itself is turned on (check the wire signal arm position) and that the water line to the ice maker isn't frozen or kinked — those produce similar symptoms.
Is this a common fix for leaks?
Yes — leaks at the water inlet valve's connections are one of the most common reasons this part gets replaced. Over time, the valve body or its fittings can develop cracks or the internal seals can degrade, producing a slow drip that pools behind or under the refrigerator. If you've found water behind your fridge and traced it to the valve area, replacing the valve typically resolves it. When installing the new valve, tighten the water line fittings snugly but don't over-torque them — over-tightening can crack the fitting and create a new leak. Always check all connections for leaks before pushing the refrigerator back against the wall.
Should I flush the water lines after installing the new valve?
Yes. After the new valve is installed and the water supply is restored, run water through the dispenser for several minutes to purge trapped air from the lines — air pockets cause sputtering and inconsistent flow. Also discard the first two or three batches of ice the ice maker produces, since they may contain air, debris, or residual manufacturing material from the new valve. After that, water and ice should return to normal quality and flow.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ OE (Original Equipment) Quality ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
