XPMTC-100 Microwave Thermal Cut-Off Fuse 100℃ (212°F) – Normally Closed – Universal Microwave Safety Cutoff
Product Description
Protect your microwave from overheating with the XPMTC-100 Microwave Thermal Cut-Off Fuse 100℃ (212°F), Normally Closed. This high-quality aftermarket safety device is designed to remain closed (conductive) during normal operation and open permanently when temperatures exceed 100℃, cutting power to prevent damage or fire risk. A failed or tripped thermal cut-off can cause the microwave to lose power or stop heating. Replacing it with this correctly rated normally closed fuse restores safe operation and proper protection.
Replaces Part Numbers
XPMTC-100, MTC-100, Microwave Thermal Fuse 100C NC, 212F Normally Closed Thermal Cutoff, KSD-100LC, WB27X11094, 1556167, AH2370184, EA2370184, PD00044040, EAP2370184, AP4484359, PS2370184, WB27X10909, 1262954, AH1481222, EA1481222, PD00075864, EAP1481222, AP3994059, PS1481222, DE47-20196C, 2079793, DE47-20196A, PD00023369, AP4580114, PS4226487, 5304456094, 1198238, AH1532498, PD00083148, EA1532498, AP3960659, PS1532498.
Compatibility
This normally closed microwave thermal cut-off fuse is compatible with many GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Panasonic, Sharp, and Kenmore microwave ovens that require a 100℃ (212°F) NC thermal cutoff.
Commonly used in countertop, over-the-range, and built-in microwave models.
Always verify temperature rating and NC (Normally Closed) configuration before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Built to OEM-equivalent safety specifications
🌡️ 100℃ (212°F) Rating – Trips at unsafe temperature levels
🔁 Normally Closed (NC) – Conducts power during normal operation
🛡️ Critical Safety Component – Prevents overheating and fire hazards
💰 Cost-Effective Repair – Affordable alternative to OEM thermal cut-offs
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: XPMTC-100
Component Type: Microwave Thermal Cut-Off Fuse
Temperature Rating: 100℃ (212°F)
Contact Type: Normally Closed (NC)
Function: One-time safety cutoff
Material: Heat-resistant metal body
Application: Magnetron or microwave cavity temperature protection
Quality Level: Aftermarket replacement (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, insulated pliers
⚠️ Safety First:Unplug the microwave before servicing. Microwaves contain high-voltage components—allow capacitors to discharge before handling internal parts.
Basic Steps:
Disconnect microwave power.
Remove the outer cabinet or access panel.
Locate the thermal cut-off near the magnetron or cavity.
Disconnect wiring and remove the failed fuse.
Install the new XPMTC-100 (NC) thermal cut-off in the same position.
Reassemble the microwave and restore power.
Test operation.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–25 minutes
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🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore microwave safety and dependable operation — Add to Cart Now for a reliable, budget-friendly repair!
WPW10190981 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Ice Maker
The WPW10190981 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM ice maker assembly for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, and Amana French door refrigerators. This assembly receives water from the refrigerator's water inlet, holds it in the ice mold until it freezes, then uses a heating element to loosen the finished ice from the mold and automatically eject it — a rotating arm pushes the ice into the storage bin, and the cycle repeats until the bin is full.
This is a modular-style assembly, and it does not include a new cover, ice level arm, or wire harness — these three components must be reused from your existing ice maker. If the coating on your current ice maker's mold is flaking off, or if internal components are no longer functioning correctly, replacing the assembly resolves both problems together. It directly replaces W10122533 and W10190981.
Quick Answer
The WPW10190981 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Ice Maker fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, and Amana French door refrigerators that have stopped making ice, are producing less ice than usual, or have a mold with flaking coating. Replaces W10122533, W10190981. This assembly does not include the cover, ice level arm, or wire harness — you must transfer these three components from your old ice maker to the new one during installation.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Ice maker has stopped producing ice entirely
Ice maker producing less ice than it used to
Ice mold coating visibly flaking or deteriorating
Ice maker cycling but not ejecting ice into the bin
Internal ice maker components no longer functioning correctly
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator ice maker directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10190981, W10190981, 1471732, W10122533, AP6016630, AWP49581, OEM18049899, PD00007257, PS11749922
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This ice maker is compatible with select Whirlpool French door refrigerators, and also fits select Maytag, Kenmore, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, and Amana refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as:
MFI2269VEM, MFI2269VEW, MFI2269VEB, GI0FSAXVY, KFIS20XVMS
7GI5FSAXVY1, 7GI5FSAXVY2, 7GI5FSAXVY3
7MI2569VEM1, 7MI2569VEM3 (Maytag)
GI5FVAXVQ00, GI0FSAXVA01, GI0FSAXVB01, GI0FSAXVB02, GI0FSAXVQ01, GI0FSAXVY01, GI0FSAXVY03
GI5FSAXVA00, GI5FSAXVA01, GI5FSAXVB00, GI5FSAXVB01, GI5FSAXVB02, GI5FSAXVQ00, GI5FSAXVQ01
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since Whirlpool uses several different ice maker designs across its French door refrigerator lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified mold design and cycling mechanism
Automatically fills, freezes, and ejects ice into the storage bin
Resolves "not making ice," "reduced ice production," and "flaking mold coating" symptoms
Modular-style assembly for straightforward replacement
Direct drop-in replacement for the ice maker body — reuses your existing cover, ice level arm, and wire harness
Replaces W10122533 and W10190981
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, and Amana French door refrigerators
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10190981
Part Type
French Door Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Function
Fills, freezes, and ejects ice via heating element and rotating arm
Includes Cover, Ice Level Arm, Wire Harness
No — reuse from existing ice maker
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — basic hand tools, some disassembly required
Quantity
1 ice maker assembly
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, Amana
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — This Assembly Does Not Include The Cover, Ice Level Arm, Or Wire Harness Disconnect power to the refrigerator, or shut off the house circuit breaker for the appliance, before beginning. Wear work gloves. Move perishable food to a cooler for the duration of the repair. Open the freezer door and remove the ice bucket or drawer to access the ice maker. Photograph the wiring harness connection and the position of the cover and ice level arm before disconnecting anything. Remove the mounting screws securing the old ice maker in place, then disconnect the wire harness connector. Before setting the old ice maker aside, remove its cover, ice level arm, and wire harness — none of these three components are included with this replacement assembly, and you'll need to transfer all of them onto the new WPW10190981. Attach the cover, ice level arm, and wire harness from your old ice maker onto the new assembly, making sure each is seated and connected correctly. Mount the new assembly in the same position, reconnect the wire harness connector, and secure the mounting screws. Reinstall the ice bucket or drawer. Restore power and allow several hours for the first cycle to complete, confirming ice is being produced and ejected normally. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this ice maker come complete and ready to install?
Not entirely — this assembly does not include a new cover, ice level arm, or wire harness. You'll need to remove these three components from your existing ice maker and transfer them onto this new assembly during installation, since only the ice maker body itself is included.
My ice mold's coating is flaking. Should I replace the whole assembly?
Yes. The mold coating isn't a separately serviceable part — if it's flaking off, replacing the complete ice maker assembly is the correct fix, since a damaged coating can affect ice quality and won't improve on its own.
Is this a difficult repair?
It's considered a moderate repair requiring basic hand tools, some disassembly of the refrigerator, and novice repair experience. The extra step of transferring the cover, ice level arm, and wire harness from your old unit adds a bit more care to the process compared to a fully complete replacement assembly, but it's manageable for a confident DIYer.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original mold design, heating element, and cycling mechanism of the ice maker originally installed in your refrigerator.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
W11168740 Washer Genuine OEM Cold Water Inlet Valve
The W11168740 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and related models. Located at the rear of the washer, this valve connects to the cold water supply and solenoid wiring, opening to admit cold water into the tub as the cycle calls for it and closing once the correct fill level is reached.
Blue in color, with two solenoids, a standard hose fitting inlet, and a single water outlet. Common causes of failure include a worn internal seal that no longer closes fully, or general electrical wear in the solenoid. Symptoms of a failing valve include the washer not getting any cold water, filling slowly, not filling at all, or continuing to fill or leak water even after the washer has been unplugged. It directly replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, 33390069, W10921514, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073.
Quick Answer
The W11168740 Washer Genuine OEM Cold Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana top-load washers that aren't getting cold water, are filling slowly, aren't filling at all, or keep leaking or filling even when unplugged. Blue, two solenoids. Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, 33390069, W10921514, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073. If water keeps running even after the washer is unplugged, try shutting off the cold water supply valve — if that stops it, the cold water inlet valve isn't closing properly and needs replacing.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not getting any cold water
Washer filling slowly
Washer not filling at all
Water continuing to fill or leak even after the washer is unplugged
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11168740, WPW10240949, W10240949, 33390069, W10921514, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana washers built on the Whirlpool platform.
Note: This is the cold water valve only — a separate hot water valve is used alongside it on the same washer. If your washer isn't getting hot water rather than cold, you likely need the companion hot water valve instead. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which valve your washer needs.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate
Regulates cold water flow into the washer tub during fill
Resolves "no cold water," "fills slowly," "won't fill," and "leaks or fills when unplugged" symptoms
Blue color with two solenoids
Standard hose fitting inlet, single water outlet
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, 33390069, W10921514, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana top-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
DIY-friendly repair, typically 20 to 30 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11168740
Part Type
Washer Cold Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Rear of the appliance
Color
Blue
Solenoids
2
Inlet
Standard hose fitting
Outlet
1
Repair Difficulty
Easy — 20 to 30 minutes
Quantity
1 valve (sold individually)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is at the rear of the washer, where both the cold and hot water inlet valves are typically mounted together, each secured with just a few screws. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical clamps and the water hose from the old cold water valve, remove the mounting screws, and pull it free. Install the new W11168740 in the same position, reconnect the water hose and electrical clamps fully, and secure the mounting screws. While you're in this area, consider replacing the fill hose at the same time if it shows signs of wear, since it's easy to access during this same repair. Restore the water supply and power, then run a full test cycle to confirm correct fill behavior with no leaking. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Water keeps running even after I unplug my washer. Is this the valve I need?
Yes, this is a documented symptom of a cold water inlet valve that's no longer closing properly. One customer had exactly this experience — after unplugging the washer, water continued to run, and shutting off the cold water supply valve at the wall stopped it. That confirmed the cold water inlet valve itself wasn't sealing shut, even with no power to the washer, and replacing it resolved the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
It's worth considering, especially if both valves are the same age. Several customers have replaced both the hot and cold valves together in a single repair, since they're mounted in the same area and access is already open — one customer described it as "very quick & easy" to do both at once.
Is this a difficult repair?
No, this is a straightforward repair. Multiple customers describe it as easy, typically secured with just a few screws and simple electrical clamp connections — one review specifically noted the whole job took about 20 minutes.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the cold water inlet valve originally installed in your washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The XPARTCO W11688995 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault
LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow
Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill
Replaces Part Numbers
This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped
Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW11688995
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Blue / White
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault)
Often Paired With
Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers?
Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes.
My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve?
Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688995 cold water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W11688995 (OE) Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The XPARTCO W11688995 (OE — Original Equipment specification) is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve built to OEM specifications, designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688995 (OE) Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Aftermarket Original Equipment (OE) — built to OEM specs. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault
LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow
Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill
Replaces Part Numbers
This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket Original Equipment (OE) replacement — built to OEM specifications for direct fit and performance
Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped
Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11688995
Designation
OE (Original Equipment specification)
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Blue / White
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault)
Often Paired With
Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers?
Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes.
My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve?
Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve.
What does "OE" mean and how is this different from an OEM Whirlpool part?
"OE" stands for Original Equipment — meaning this is an aftermarket replacement part manufactured to original equipment specifications. It is engineered as a direct-fit substitute matching the dimensions, electrical specifications, and function of the original Whirlpool W11688995. It is not a genuine Whirlpool-branded OEM part, but is built to the same quality standards and performs identically when installed in compatible washers.
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XPARTCO WE1M654 Dryer Timer Knob – Compatible with GE & Hotpoint Dryers
Product Description
Restore smooth and accurate cycle selection with the XPARTCO WE1M654 Dryer Timer Knob. This high-quality aftermarket replacement fits securely onto the dryer’s timer shaft, allowing easy turning and precise control of drying cycles. A cracked, loose, or missing knob can make it difficult to set cycles or operate the dryer properly. Replacing it with this durable XPARTCO knob restores normal operation and improves everyday usability.
XPARTCO is a trusted aftermarket brand offering appliance replacement parts built to OEM-equivalent specifications at a cost-effective price.
Replaces Part Numbers
WE1M654, 1264290, WE01M0443, WE1M443, WE1M502, WE1M668, AH1482197, EA1482197, PD00001146, EAP1482197, AP3995088, PS1482197.
Compatibility
This replacement dryer timer knob fits select GE and Hotpoint dryers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):
GE GTDP220EF3WW, GTDP300EM1WS
Hotpoint HTDX100EM1WW
Always verify your dryer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Matches OEM fit and appearance
🎛️ Smooth Cycle Control – Restores easy and accurate timer adjustment
🧩 Direct-Fit Design – Push-on fit for secure installation
💪 Durable Plastic Construction – Built for everyday use
💰 Cost-Effective Repair – Affordable alternative to OEM knobs
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: WE1M654
Component Type: Dryer Timer Knob
Material: High-strength molded plastic
Color: White (OEM-style)
Mounting: Push-on / shaft-fit
Quality Level: Aftermarket replacement (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: None
⚠️ Safety First: Ensure the dryer is powered off before installing the knob.
Basic Steps:
Turn the dryer off.
Align the new XPARTCO WE1M654 knob with the timer shaft.
Press firmly until fully seated.
Rotate to confirm smooth operation.
⏱️ Time Required: Under 2 minutes
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🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore smooth dryer control in seconds — Add to Cart Now for a quick, budget-friendly fix!
MWC21095 Microwave High Voltage Capacitor (2100VAC, 0.95µF)
The MWC21095 is a universal high voltage capacitor for microwave ovens, part of the high-voltage power supply circuit that steps up household voltage to the extreme level the magnetron needs to generate cooking power. Working alongside the high-voltage diode and transformer, this capacitor doubles the rectified voltage feeding the magnetron — it's a core piece of why a microwave can produce thousands of volts internally from a standard household outlet.
Rated 2100VAC, 0.95µF, ±3% tolerance, oval aluminum can construction with two male terminals spaced 1/4" (6.35mm) apart. Overall dimensions approximately 3.35"H (body) x 2.75"W x 2.05"D, with the terminal housing adding roughly 1.3" to the total height. Over time, the internal dielectric can break down from repeated high-voltage cycling, causing the capacitor to lose capacitance or fail outright — sometimes shorting internally. Symptoms of a failing capacitor include the microwave running (light on, turntable turning, fan running) but not heating food, a buzzing or humming noise from the high-voltage compartment, arcing or sparking sounds, or the microwave tripping a breaker shortly after starting.
⚠️ Extreme Danger — Lethal Voltage Risk A microwave's high voltage capacitor can retain a lethal electrical charge for a long time after the microwave has been unplugged — this is one of the most dangerous components in any household appliance to work on. Even with the microwave fully unplugged, this capacitor can still deliver a fatal shock if handled incorrectly. Before touching any component in the high-voltage compartment, the capacitor must be safely discharged by shorting both terminals to the chassis ground using an insulated-handle screwdriver, and that discharge should be verified with a multimeter before proceeding. If you are not fully trained and confident in safely discharging a high voltage capacitor, do not attempt this repair — have a qualified appliance technician replace this part instead. This applies every time, regardless of how long the microwave has been unplugged.
Quick Answer
The MWC21095 Microwave High Voltage Capacitor fixes microwave ovens that run (light, turntable, fan all working) but don't heat food, make a buzzing or arcing sound from the high-voltage compartment, or trip the breaker shortly after starting. 2100VAC, 0.95µF, ±3%, oval, 2 male terminals (1/4"/6.35mm spacing). Retains a lethal electrical charge even after unplugging — must be properly discharged before any handling.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Microwave runs (light on, turntable turning, fan running) but doesn't heat food
Buzzing or humming noise from the high-voltage compartment
Arcing or sparking sound during operation
Microwave trips the breaker shortly after starting a cook cycle
Microwave that used to heat inconsistently and has now stopped heating altogether
Visible bulging, leaking, or discoloration on the capacitor can
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
TJ13QBP21095, 13QBP0300, 13QBP21095, AP5633423, RC-QZA234WRE0, RC-QZB011MRE0, RCQZA331WRZZ, 5304513458, PD00065299, EAP12365444, 4584979, AP6301645, PS12365444, 00631397, 631397, PD00044249, EAP10057840, 4161979, AP5950362, PS10057840, WB27X11031, PD00040188, EAP2339855, 1474116, AP4362390, PS2339855, WB27X10073, PD00045875, EAP239187, 769853, AP2025984, PS239187, WB27X11011, PD00087136, EAP2345628, 1474103, AP4368101, PS2345628, 2501-001016, 2028385, AP4033712, PS4130923, 8206562, PD00074258, EAP1486840, 1200936, AP3890709, PS1486840, 5304528930, 5304464253, AP7017693, PS2203382, WB27X10009, 254534, AH239117, EA239117, AP2025928, PS239117, WP815073, AP6011690, PS11744888, 2501-000260, AP4033659, PS4130923
This is a universal component rather than a single-manufacturer part, so the specific OEM number your microwave's label references will vary by brand (GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, and others). This capacitor is a correct replacement for any microwave capacitor matching the 2100VAC, 0.95µF specification. If you have your original part number, contact our support team and we will verify compatibility before you order.
Compatibility
This capacitor is a universal replacement compatible with household microwave ovens across all major brands — GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, and others — wherever the original capacitor is rated:
2100VAC
0.95µF (or a rating within roughly 10–20% higher than your original — see FAQ)
Oval shape with 2 male terminals, 1/4" (6.35mm) spacing
Note: Voltage rating must match your original capacitor exactly — never substitute a lower voltage rating, and don't assume a higher voltage rating is automatically safe on this component the way it is with an HVAC run capacitor, since the high-voltage diode in the circuit must also be rated to match. Capacitance (µF) has more tolerance than voltage: a modest increase over the original rating is generally acceptable, but always try to match as closely as possible. If you're unsure whether this capacitor matches your microwave's original specification, check the rating printed on your existing capacitor's can before ordering, or contact our support team for help confirming compatibility.
Key Features
Universal microwave high voltage capacitor — a core component of the high-voltage power supply circuit
2100VAC, 0.95µF, ±3% tolerance
Oval aluminum can construction for durability
Resolves "runs but doesn't heat," "buzzing or arcing noise," and "trips the breaker" symptoms caused by capacitor failure
2 male terminals, 1/4" (6.35mm) spacing, for a direct plug-on fit to standard microwave wiring
Compatible with GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, and most other major microwave brands
Built to meet or exceed industry-standard specifications for this capacitor class
Product Specifications
Part Number
MWC21095
Part Type
Microwave High Voltage Capacitor
Condition
New — Universal Replacement Part
Voltage Rating
2100VAC
Capacitance
0.95 µF (mfd)
Tolerance
±3%
Shape
Oval
Terminals
2 male, 1/4" (6.35mm) spacing
Overall Height
8.5cm / 3.35 in.
Body Height
7cm / 2.75 in.
Body Width
5.2cm / 2.05 in.
Terminal Housing Height
3.3cm / 1.3 in.
Material
Aluminum can
Application
Household Microwave Ovens
Quantity
1 high voltage capacitor
Compatible Brands
Universal — GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, and most other major brands
Installation Notes
⚠️ Extreme Danger — Discharge Fully Before Any Contact Unplug the microwave and wait, but never assume the capacitor is safe based on time alone. Remove the outer cabinet to access the high-voltage compartment. Before touching anything else, discharge the capacitor by shorting both terminals to the chassis ground using an insulated-handle screwdriver — do this deliberately and do not rush. Verify the capacitor reads no charge with a multimeter before proceeding. Never assume a capacitor is discharged just because time has passed, and never touch the terminals directly, even with the microwave unplugged. If you are not completely confident performing this discharge procedure safely, stop and have a qualified appliance technician complete this repair.
⚠️ Match The Terminal Wiring Exactly Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. After confirming the capacitor is fully discharged, photograph the wiring on both terminals before disconnecting anything. Remove the mounting bracket or strap holding the old capacitor in place, and disconnect each wire from its terminal. Install the new MWC21095 in the same mounting position, and reconnect each wire to its matching terminal exactly as photographed — the two terminals are not interchangeable in some circuit configurations, so accuracy here matters. Secure the mounting bracket or strap. Reinstall the outer cabinet before restoring power. Plug the microwave back in and test with a cup of water to confirm normal heating without unusual noise.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it really dangerous to work on this even with the microwave unplugged?
Yes, genuinely. This is one of the most dangerous repairs a person can attempt on a household appliance, because this capacitor is specifically capable of retaining a lethal electrical charge long after the microwave has lost power. Unplugging the microwave is a necessary first step, but it does not make the capacitor safe to touch on its own — proper discharge with an insulated tool, verified with a multimeter, is required every time before any contact with this component.
My microwave runs completely normally — light, turntable, fan — but food doesn't heat. Is this the capacitor?
It's one of the most common causes of exactly that symptom. Since the capacitor is part of the circuit that generates the high voltage the magnetron needs, a failed capacitor can leave every other function of the microwave working normally while the actual cooking power is missing entirely.
Can I use a capacitor with a slightly different µF rating than my original?
Some tolerance is generally acceptable here — a modest increase over your original rating, often cited as up to roughly 10-20% higher, typically works fine, since the capacitance value isn't as tightly critical to the magnetron's operation as some assume. That said, always aim to match your original rating as closely as possible, and never substitute a different voltage rating; the voltage must match your original capacitor exactly.
Should I replace the high-voltage diode at the same time?
It's worth considering. The capacitor and diode work together in the same high-voltage circuit, and a failure in one can sometimes stress or damage the other. If your capacitor failed and you're already taking the precautions needed to safely access this compartment, it may be a reasonable time to inspect or replace the diode as well, particularly if the microwave shows signs of a more significant electrical fault.
Is this a genuine OEM part?
This is a universal replacement part rather than a brand-specific OEM part. Because high voltage capacitors of this type are a standardized component defined by their electrical specifications, this capacitor is a correct replacement for any microwave's original capacitor sharing the same 2100VAC, 0.95µF rating — regardless of which brand originally installed it.
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XPARTCO DA32-10105X Refrigerator Temperature Sensor – Compatible with Samsung and Kenmore Refrigerators
Product Description
Maintain consistent cooling performance with the XPARTCO DA32-10105X Refrigerator Temperature Sensor. This high-quality replacement monitors internal refrigerator temperature and communicates with the control board to regulate cooling cycles. A faulty sensor can cause temperature fluctuations, frost buildup, or over-cooling. Installing this reliable XPARTCO sensor helps restore accurate temperature readings and energy-efficient operation.
Replaces Part Numbers
DA32-10105X, 2030345, PD00002045, EAP4138686, AP4338786, PS4138686
Compatibility
This replacement temperature sensor fits select Samsung and Kenmore refrigerators.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): Samsung RF28HMEDBSR/AA, RF23HCEDBSR/AA, and Kenmore 795.72053.112.
Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Designed to match OEM accuracy and reliability
❄️ Precision Cooling Control – Ensures stable refrigerator and freezer temperatures
💰 Budget-Friendly Fix – Provides OEM-level performance at a lower cost
🛠️ Easy Installation – Plug-in design for fast and simple replacement
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Solves cooling inconsistencies, frost buildup, or warm compartment problems
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DA32-10105X
Component Type: Refrigerator Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)
Material: Plastic sensor probe with insulated wiring harness
Mounting: Clip-in or taped to evaporator wall depending on model
Compliance: Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers
⚠️ Safety First: Always unplug the refrigerator before performing any repairs to prevent electrical shock.
Steps:
Disconnect power and remove interior shelves for access.
Locate the existing temperature sensor near the evaporator coil or rear wall.
Unplug the old sensor from its wiring harness.
Install the new XPARTCO DA32-10105X sensor and reconnect the harness.
Secure the sensor in place with clips or adhesive as applicable.
Reassemble interior panels and restore power.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–20 minutes
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W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
The W11434044 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher water inlet valve assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher and connects to the household cold water supply line. When the control board calls for water during the fill cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely when the correct water level is reached. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't get water into the tub — meaning it can't wash, rinse, or complete a cycle.
Rated 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximate dimensions: 2.9" H x 2.3" W with a 0.9" threaded orifice for the water supply connection. The package includes the water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and two hose clamps — everything needed for the connection between the valve and the dishwasher's water divider. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11434044 directly replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908. Important: the water inlet connection uses plastic threads, which are easily damaged by over-tightening or cross-threading — hand-tighten the water line carefully during installation. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, aren't washing properly, drain immediately after filling, or leak at the valve. 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximately 2.9"H x 2.3"W. Genuine OEM. Includes inlet valve, water outlet pipe, and 2 hose clamps. Replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, PS16217908. Compatible with WDT750SAKZ, KDTM404KPS, MDB4949SKZ, WDTA50SAKZ, KDTE204KPS, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024, WDT740SAL, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK series and related models. Plastic-thread inlet connection — hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Dishwasher filling too slowly — valve partially clogged with sediment or weak solenoid
Dishes not being washed properly due to insufficient water fill
Dishwasher fills but doesn't reach normal water level
Water leaking from the valve body or its connections
Dishwasher continuously running water even when the cycle should be complete — valve stuck open
Dishwasher won't advance past the fill phase due to insufficient water detection
Excessive cycle times as the dishwasher tries to fill from a partially clogged valve
Multimeter test on the valve solenoid shows no continuity
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11434044, W11025970, W11025972, W11187724, AP6987233, AWP44732, EAP16217908, PD00064823, PS16217908.
W11434044 is the current OEM production part superseding W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDPA70SAMZ0, WDPA70SAMZ2, WDPA70SAMZ3, WDPS7024RV0, WDPS7024RZ0 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT740SALB2, WDT740SALB3, WDT740SALW2, WDT740SALW3, WDT740SALZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT750SAKB0/B2/B3, WDT750SAKV0/V2/V3, WDT750SAKW0/W2/W3, WDT750SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT751SAPZ0, WDT751SAPZ1 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT970SAKV2, WDT970SAKV3, WDT970SAKZ2, WDT970SAKZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDTA50SAKB0/B2/B3, WDTA50SAKT0/T2/T3, WDTA50SAKV0/V2/V3, WDTA50SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
KitchenAid dishwashers — KDTM404KPS, KDTE204KPS and related models
Maytag dishwashers — MDB4949SKZ and related models
JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric — select Whirlpool-built dishwashers
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped
120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-platform dishwashers
Dimensions: approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W · 0.9" threaded orifice diameter
Includes water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and 2 hose clamps for a complete connection set
Current OEM production part — supersedes W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970
Also replaces AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908
Compatible with Whirlpool WDT740SAL, WDT750SAK, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK, WDTA50SAK, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024 series and select KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers
DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11434044
Supersedes
W11187724, W11025972, W11025970
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform)
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Wattage
6/5W
Dimensions
Approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W
Threaded Orifice Diameter
0.9"
Inlet Thread Material
Plastic (hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping)
Body Material
ABS Plastic / Stainless Steel
Includes
1x Inlet Valve, 1x Water Outlet Pipe, 2x Hose Clamps
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN PLASTIC THREADS Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply line and will spill when disconnected. Critical: the W11434044's water supply connection uses plastic threads. Multiple installers have reported stripping the plastic threads by over-tightening or cross-threading the water line during installation — always hand-tighten the fitting carefully and align the threads squarely before tightening. If your dishwasher is installed under a counter, working through the lower access panel is possible but tight — many installers find it easier to pull the dishwasher partially out from the cabinet, or lay it on its side, to reach the inlet connection cleanly (this also lets you use a 90-degree hose fitting without cross-threading). Remove the lower access panel (typically 2 screws) at the front bottom of the dishwasher. Locate the water inlet valve. Photograph the wire harness and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve. Squeeze the hose clamps with pliers and slide them back to release the outlet hose from the valve, then disconnect the wire harness plug. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place. Install the new W11434044 valve, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the outlet hose and hose clamps. Push the electrical connector's fixing plate firmly into place before connecting the wire harness plug — this prevents the connector from falling out during operation. Reconnect the household water supply — hand-tighten the fitting carefully to avoid stripping the plastic threads. Restore water and power. Run a test cycle and check for leaks at all connections. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench (used lightly on plastic threads only!), channel-lock pliers, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water — is the inlet valve the problem?
Very likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed dishwasher water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the household water supply to the dishwasher is turned on at the shutoff valve; 2) check the household water pressure at a nearby fixture (a nearby faucet) to make sure your home has normal pressure; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean but the dishwasher still won't fill, the W11434044 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue. You can also test the solenoid with a multimeter — no continuity means the solenoid has burned out.
What is the difference between W11434044 and W11025970/W11025972/W11187724?
These are the same water inlet valve across production revisions. W11025970 was the original OEM part number, W11025972 and W11187724 were mid-generation revisions, and W11434044 is the current OEM production version. All are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram or the part on your appliance shows any of these numbers, the W11434044 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers all of them.
Why is over-tightening the water line connection such a common issue?
The water supply inlet on the W11434044 has plastic threads to reduce cost and simplify manufacturing — but plastic threads are much less forgiving than brass or metal fittings. Cross-threading (starting the fitting at an angle instead of straight-in) or applying too much torque with a wrench will strip the plastic threads or split the fitting. Always align the water line fitting carefully by hand first, get several turns of engagement before applying any tool, and use only enough torque to snug the connection (typically hand-tight plus a very light quarter-turn with a wrench). If the threads are already stripped, the valve or a replacement plastic fitting will need to be ordered — the connection can't be repaired.
Should I lay the dishwasher on its side for this repair?
If you're finding it difficult to reach the water inlet connection cleanly through the lower access panel — which is a common complaint from installers — laying the dishwasher on its side (or pulling it partially out from the cabinet) makes the connection much easier to work with. This is especially helpful if your water supply line uses a 90-degree hose fitting that needs a straight approach for correct thread engagement. Before laying the dishwasher down, disconnect all connections and drain any residual water from the tub to avoid spills. Note that if the door has been damaged or bent, laying the unit on its side can worsen the damage — inspect first.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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XPARTCO WB2K101 Burner Grate Rubber Foot (Pack of 4)
The XPARTCO WB2K101 is an aftermarket replacement burner grate rubber foot for GE gas ranges, and also fits select Hotpoint and Kenmore models. This pack of 4 rubber feet secures to the bottom of the burner grate, keeping the grate level for even cooking, preventing cookware from tipping due to unstable placement, and protecting the cooktop surface from scratches.
Each foot has a center vent hole, a shaft diameter of approximately 4.5mm (0.18"), and a shaft length of approximately 5.5mm (0.22"), sized for a 3/16" mounting hole. Made of rubber. Over time, these feet wear down, crack, or fall off from heat exposure and the repeated lifting and setting down of grates during cleaning. A worn or missing foot typically shows up as a grate that wobbles, sits unevenly, or scratches the cooktop underneath. It directly replaces WB02K0101, WB02T10461, WB02T10101, 247410, AP2622260, PS241358, EAP241358, and AP4411611.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WB2K101 Burner Grate Rubber Foot (Pack of 4) fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore gas ranges with a wobbling, uneven, or scratching burner grate from cracked, broken, or missing feet. Fits a 3/16" mounting hole. This pack includes 4 feet. Replaces WB02K0101, WB02T10461, WB02T10101, 247410, AP2622260, PS241358, EAP241358, AP4411611. For a more secure fit, it's recommended to apply a small amount of glue or heat-resistant silicone to each foot during installation.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Burner grate wobbling or sitting unevenly
Grate scratching the cooktop surface underneath
Cracked, torn, or worn rubber feet
Missing feet on one or more grate legs
Cookware tipping due to unstable grate placement
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
Each foot in this pack directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WB2K101, WB02K0101, 247410, AP2622260, AGE1353527, AH241358, EA241358, ERWB2K101, PD00023189, PS241358
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This grate foot is compatible with select GE gas ranges, and also fits select Hotpoint and Kenmore ranges built on the GE platform, including model numbers such as:
EGR2000, EGR3000, EGR3001
J2B900, J2B912, J2B918, P2B912, P2B918
JGB282, JGB285, JGB296, JGB500, JGB600, JGB605, JGB650, JGB750, JGB760, JGB810, JGB840, JGB850, JGB870, JGB908, JGB910, JGB916, JGB918, JGB920
JGBP28, JGBP29, JGBP32, JGBP33, JGBP35, JGBP40, JGBP79, JGBP85, JGBP86, JGBP87, JGBP88, JGBP99, JGBS23DEM1SS
PGB908, PGB910, PGB916, PGB918, PGB975SEM
Hotpoint RGB845BEC1WH, RGB845BEC2WH, RGB845BEC3WH, RGB845WEC1WW, RGB845WEC2WW, RGB845WEC3WW, RGB845WEC4WW, RGB845WEC5WW
Kenmore 36275521000, 36275528000, 36275701001, 36275701002, 36275702001, 36275702002, 36275707001, 36275707002, 36275708001, 36275708002, 36275990001, 36275990002
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since range manufacturers use several different grate foot sizes across their lineups. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement burner grate rubber foot — pack of 4
Resolves "wobbling grate," "scratching cooktop," and "cracked or missing foot" symptoms
Center vent hole design
Shaft diameter approx. 4.5mm (0.18"), shaft length approx. 5.5mm (0.22")
Sized for a 3/16" mounting hole
Rubber construction
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original size and mounting
Replaces WB02K0101, WB02T10461, WB02T10101, 247410, AP2622260, PS241358, EAP241358, and AP4411611
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore gas ranges
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPWB2K101
OEM Part Number
WB2K101
Part Type
Range Burner Grate Rubber Foot
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Material
Rubber
Mounting Hole Size
3/16"
Shaft Diameter
Approx. 4.5mm (0.18")
Shaft Length
Approx. 5.5mm (0.22")
Design
Center vent hole
Repair Difficulty
Easy
Quantity
4 feet (pack of 4)
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Range Should Be Cool And Unplugged Before Starting Make sure the range is cool and disconnected from power before beginning. Remove the burner grates and turn each one over to access the mounting holes for the old feet. Remove any old, worn, or broken feet from each grate leg. For a more secure fit, it's recommended to apply a small amount of glue or heat-resistant silicone to each new foot before installation. Press each new foot firmly into its mounting hole. Allow any adhesive used to cure per its instructions before using the range. Reinstall the grates and confirm each one sits level and stable with no wobble. Tools needed: none required, though glue or heat-resistant silicone is recommended.
Frequently Asked Questions
My grate wobbles and scratches the cooktop. Is this the part I need?
Yes, this is the most common symptom of worn or missing grate feet. Once the rubber foot cracks, wears thin, or falls off, the metal grate leg can sit directly against the cooktop surface, causing wobbling, uneven seating, and scratches — and an unstable grate can also cause pans to tip.
Do I need glue to install these feet?
It's recommended but not always strictly required, depending on how snug the fit is on your specific grate. For a more secure, long-lasting fit, apply a small amount of glue or heat-resistant silicone to each foot before pressing it into the mounting hole.
Do I need to replace all 4 feet on a grate, or can I just replace one?
You can replace just the feet that are damaged, but since this pack includes 4, it conveniently covers a full grate (which typically uses 4 feet) in one purchase, or lets you replace the worst feet across more than one grate if a full-grate replacement isn't needed.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the size, shaft dimensions, and mounting fit of the original WB2K101 burner grate foot used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore gas ranges.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPMTC-70 Microwave Thermal Fuse 70 ℃ (158 °F) Normally Closed – Universal Microwave Safety Cutoff
Product Description
Protect your microwave from overheating with the XPMTC-70 Microwave Thermal Fuse 70 ℃ (158 °F). This high-quality aftermarket safety fuse is designed to permanently interrupt power when internal temperatures exceed safe operating limits. A blown thermal fuse can cause the microwave to lose power, stop heating, or shut down entirely. Replacing it with this reliable XPMTC-70 fuse restores safe operation and helps prevent damage to internal components.
Replaces Part Numbers
XPMTC-70, MTC-70, Microwave Thermal Fuse 70C, 158F Thermal Cutoff, KSD201 70C, KSD-40LC 70,
Compatibility
This universal microwave thermal fuse is compatible with many GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Panasonic, Sharp, and Kenmore microwave ovens that require a 70 ℃ (158 °F) thermal cutoff.
Commonly used in countertop, over-the-range, and built-in microwave models.
Always verify temperature rating and fuse style before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Matches OEM temperature cutoff performance
🌡️ 70 ℃ (158 °F) Safety Rating – Activates at unsafe temperature levels
🛡️ Critical Safety Component – Helps prevent overheating and fire risk
💪 Durable Construction – Designed for long-term reliability
💰 Cost-Effective Repair – Affordable alternative to OEM thermal fuses
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: XPMTC-70
Component Type: Microwave Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cutoff
Temperature Rating: 70 ℃ (158 °F)
Function: One-time safety cutoff
Material: Heat-resistant metal body
Application: Microwave cavity or magnetron temperature protection
Quality Level: Aftermarket replacement (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, insulated pliers
⚠️ Safety First:Unplug the microwave before servicing. Microwaves contain high-voltage components—allow time for capacitors to discharge before handling internal parts.
Basic Steps:
Disconnect microwave power.
Remove the outer cabinet or access panel.
Locate the thermal fuse near the magnetron or cavity.
Disconnect wiring and remove the blown fuse.
Install the new XPMTC-70 thermal fuse in the same position.
Reassemble the unit and restore power.
Test microwave operation.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–25 minutes
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🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore microwave safety and functionality — Add to Cart Now for a dependable, budget-friendly repair!
XPARTCO W11165546 Washer Water Inlet Valve
The XPARTCO W11165546 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve assembly compatible with Maytag Bravos XL, Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore 700-series, and related Whirlpool-platform HE top-load washers. This 4-solenoid assembly controls the flow of hot and cold water from the household supply lines into the washer tub and dispenser compartments. It includes an integrated thermistor on the center outlet that monitors incoming water temperature and communicates it to the control board so the washer can achieve the correct wash temperature. When the valve fails — or when a single solenoid coil burns out — the washer may not fill, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong temperature, overfill, or display error codes F8E1, LF, or LO FL.
Rated 120V, 60Hz, with 2 inlet ports and 3 outlet ports, this assembly measures 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H. The valve body may be blue or green in color depending on production run — both are functionally identical. It is compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses. It directly replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, W11165546VP, WV5546, 33090105, 4545980, AP6284346, EAP12348013, PD00037668, and PS12348013. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11165546 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Maytag Bravos XL and Whirlpool Cabrio/WTW HE top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, overfill, or display error codes F8E1, LF, or LO FL. 4-solenoid valve with thermistor. 120V/60Hz. 2 inlet / 3 outlet ports. 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H. Compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses. Replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, W11165546VP, 33090105, 4545980, AP6284346, PS12348013.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water — error code F8E1, LF, or LO FL displayed
Washer filling very slowly — taking much longer than normal to reach water level
Washer filling with only cold water on a warm or hot cycle — hot solenoid failed
Washer filling with only hot water on a cold cycle — cold solenoid failed
Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open
Water temperature incorrect despite correct cycle selection — thermistor failed
Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve not closing completely
Water leaking from the back of the washer near the valve
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10839828, 33090105, 4545980, W10599423, W10758828, W11096267, W11165546VP, AP6284346, AWP43457, EAP12348013, PD00037668, PS12348013.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select HE top-load washers from the following brands and series:
Maytag top-load washers — Bravos XL series (MVWB765FW0, MVWB765FW1, MVWB765FW2, MVWB765FW3, MVWB765FC1, MVWB765FC2, MVWB766FW0, MVWB766FW1, MVWB835DW1, MVWB835DW2, MVWB835DW3, MVWB835DW4, MVWB855DC2, MVWB855DC3, MVWB865GC0, MVWB865GW0, MVW6230HW2, MVW7230HW0, MVW7232HW0 and related models)
Whirlpool top-load washers — Cabrio / WTW series (WTW7500GC0, WTW7500GW0, WTW8500DC2, WTW8500DC4, WTW8500DC5, WTW8500DR4, WTW8500DR5, WTW8500DW4, WTW8500DW5, WTW8700EC1, 7MWTW8500EC2 and related models)
Kenmore / Sears top-load washers — 700 series (11028132410, 11028132411, 11028132412, 11028132413, 11028133410, 11028133411, 11029132411, 11029133410 and related models)
Crosley top-load washers (select models)
Note: The valve body color may be blue or green depending on production run — both are functionally identical. This valve is for HE top-load washers only. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
4-solenoid valve assembly — controls hot water, cold water, and additional dispenser/recirculation ports to fill the tub with the correct temperature water for each cycle
Integrated thermistor on center outlet — monitors incoming water temperature and communicates with the control board to achieve the correct wash temperature
Resolves F8E1, LF, and LO FL error codes on compatible Maytag and Whirlpool HE top-load washers
Rated 120V, 60Hz — correct electrical specifications for compatible models
Dimensions: 5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H
2 inlet ports, 3 outlet ports — compatible with 1/2" ID supply hoses
Valve body color (blue or green) varies by production run — functionally identical
Replaces W10599423, W10758828, W10839828, W11096267, and W11165546VP
Compatible with Maytag Bravos XL MVWB series, Whirlpool WTW7xxx/WTW8xxx, Kenmore 700 series, and Crosley top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11165546
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (4-Solenoid with Thermistor)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
HE Top-Load Washers — Bravos XL, Cabrio, WTW series
Solenoids
4-coil (hot, cold, and additional ports)
Thermistor
Integrated on center outlet — monitors water temperature
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
60 Hz
Dimensions
5-3/8"L x 4-1/4"W x 3"H
Inlet Ports
2 (hot and cold)
Outlet Ports
3
Supply Hose ID
1/2 inch
Color
White / Blue or Green (production run dependent — functionally identical)
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LF, LO FL
Compatible Brands
Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Crosley
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve is mounted on the upper rear of the washer. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose routing before disconnecting. Disconnect the two external supply hoses from the valve inlet ports using pliers to loosen any stuck connections. Disconnect the internal outlet hoses by squeezing the retaining clips and pulling free. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from all solenoid coils and the thermistor. Unscrew the mounting hardware and remove the old valve. Install the new W11165546 valve in the same position, reconnect all internal hoses, wire harnesses, and external supply hoses in the same positions as documented. Restore water supply and power, then run a fill cycle to verify normal filling and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, channel-lock pliers for stubborn hose connections.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1, LF, and LO FL mean on Maytag and Whirlpool washers?
F8E1 (also displayed as LF or LO FL on some models) indicates a long fill fault — the washer was unable to fill to the required water level within the expected time. The most common causes are a failed water inlet valve (solenoid coil burned out or valve seat clogged), low household water pressure, or kinked supply hoses. Before replacing the valve, confirm both supply valves are fully open, the supply hoses are not kinked, and household water pressure is adequate. If all supply conditions are good and the error persists, the water inlet valve is the most likely cause.
What is the difference between W11165546 and W11096267?
These are the same water inlet valve assembly. W11096267 was an earlier version, and W11165546 is the current updated part number. The W10599423 and W10758828 are also cross-references to earlier versions of this same valve. The W11165546VP is the Whirlpool factory-packaged version. All of these are covered by this aftermarket replacement.
Why does this valve have 4 solenoids?
Modern HE top-load washers like the Maytag Bravos XL and Whirlpool Cabrio use multiple water paths for different wash functions — hot water inlet, cold water inlet, a bleach dispenser port, and a fabric softener/recirculation port. Each path is controlled by its own independent solenoid coil on the same valve assembly. This allows the control board to independently open any combination of ports needed for a given cycle phase. When any single solenoid coil fails, only the function controlled by that coil is affected — which is why the washer might fill normally with cold water but not hot, or fail to activate only one dispenser.
Does the valve color (blue vs green) matter?
No — the blue and green valve body colors are simply the result of different production runs at the factory. Both colors are the same part number (W11165546) with identical electrical specifications, port configuration, thermistor, and dimensions. Either color will function correctly in your washer. There is no functional difference between the two.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured with 4 solenoid coils and an integrated thermistor to match the electrical specifications and port configuration of the original W11165546 water inlet valve assembly.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout