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316490000 Oven Genuine OEM Temperature Sensor Product Overview The 316490000 Oven Genuine OEM Temperature Sensor is designed to accurately monitor oven temperature and ensure proper heating performance.  This Oven Sensor Assembly is a Genuine OEM part for select Frigidaire oven models, designed to accurately measure the oven's internal temperature and communicate it to the control board. This ensures that the oven maintains the desired temperature setting during baking or roasting, providing consistent cooking results.  Quick Answer If your oven is overheating, not heating properly, or showing incorrect temperature readings, the 316490000 temperature sensor may be faulty. Replacing it restores accurate temperature control and consistent cooking results. Replaces Part Numbers Replaces OEM part number: 316490000, 316490003, 1197392, 316490002, 612058426864, 7316490000, AH1528542, EAP1528542, AFR16190, PD00000483, OEM15854618, AP3963654, PS1528542. Compatibility This oven temperature sensor is compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and other compatible ranges and ovens. Frigidaire Ranges & Ovens Electrolux Appliances Kenmore Ranges Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven overheating or under-heating Inaccurate temperature readings Uneven cooking results Error codes related to temperature sensor Key Features Genuine OEM temperature sensor Accurate temperature monitoring Reliable and durable construction Restores proper oven performance Product Specifications Part Number: 316490000 Part Type: Oven Temperature Sensor Brand: OEM Condition: New OEM / Aftermarket: Genuine OEM Application: Ovens & Ranges Troubleshooting Guide Oven too hot or too cold → Faulty temperature sensor Food overcooking or under-cooking → Incorrect temperature readings Error codes displayed → Sensor failure likely When Should You Replace This Sensor? Replace this sensor if your oven temperature is inconsistent, inaccurate, or if error codes indicate a sensor issue. Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect power before installation. Remove mounting screws, disconnect wiring, and install the new sensor securely. Refer to your appliance manual if needed. Related Parts Oven Control Board Heating Element Thermostat Components Frequently Asked Questions Will this sensor fit my oven?This sensor fits many Frigidaire and compatible models. Always verify your model number. What does an oven temperature sensor do?It monitors oven temperature and sends signals to maintain accurate heat levels. What are signs of a bad sensor?Inconsistent temperatures, error codes, or improper cooking results. Is this OEM?Yes, this is a genuine OEM temperature sensor. Shop With Confidence Parts-O-Matic is a U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We offer fast shipping, reliable products, and expert support. Fast Shipping Genuine OEM Parts Compatibility Support  

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XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb 40W Replaces 8206232A, WB25X10030 The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 is an aftermarket replacement 40-watt T8 appliance light bulb compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, ovens, and other kitchen appliances from GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, and more. It uses the standard E17 intermediate screw base found on most over-the-range and built-in microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulb sockets. With a clear T8 glass envelope, warm white 2800K color temperature, and 280-lumen output, it matches the brightness and look of the original OEM bulbs it replaces. Specifications: 40W, 125V (AC 110-130V/60Hz), E17 intermediate screw base, T8 shape (1" diameter × 2-3/8" length), 280 lumens, warm white (~2800K), dimmable (compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings), 1000-hour rated life, working temperature High Temp Resistance 300℃. It directly replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 261201500480, 3015548, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, and PS8767095. Installs in under 5 minutes — no tools required for the bulb itself. Quick Answer The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb (40W) replaces burned-out interior microwave lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulbs across GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, and Hotpoint. T8 shape, 40W, 125V, E17 intermediate screw base. 1" diameter × 2-3/8" length. 280 lumens warm white (~2800K). Dimmable. 1000-hour life. Replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, PS8767095. Make sure your appliance uses an E17 intermediate base — not E26 standard, E12 candelabra, or E14 European. Common Problems This Part Fixes Microwave interior light not working — bulb burned out Range hood light bulb burned out — under-cabinet area no longer illuminates when cooking Over-the-range microwave under-cabinet light not working Bulb flickering or dimming inconsistently — filament starting to fail Bulb visibly burned out, broken, or rattling when shaken (broken filament) Microwave light works only intermittently — bulb on the verge of failure Replacement after long service life — most appliance bulbs last about 2,000 hours Replaces Part Numbers This 40W appliance light bulb directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers from multiple brands: 8206232A, 8206443, 8183993, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, 14209237, 14210453, 14210811, 14218311, 14218312, 14218318, 1890433, 2635-0004, 2635-0005, 2665-0003, 4158344, 4158365, 4158432, 4164062, 4166665, 4174608, 4338831, 4359625, 4393681, 53001372, 53422, 53437, 56001071, 56001089, 57001073, 7-47000, 7-47001, 747000, 747001, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 8205586, 8206232, R0712013, R0712015, R0713503, R9900310, W10321375, W10598935, Y0053422, Y0053437, Y05200136, Y05200137, Y747000, Y747001, AWP39609, PD00003046, AH2376034, EA2376034, AP4512653, PS2376034, WB25X10030, 261201500480, 3015548, AGE22225 PD00034740, AP5809052, PS8767095, 26QBP4093. If your bulb part number isn't listed above, check that the base is E17 intermediate and the bulb is 40W — most appliance bulbs in this category are interchangeable. Contact our support team if you need confirmation. Compatibility This 40W E17 appliance light bulb is compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and ovens using E17 intermediate base sockets, including: GE over-the-range and countertop microwaves (interior lights) GE Profile, Café, and Monogram microwaves and range hoods Whirlpool microwaves and range hoods (over-the-range models) KitchenAid microwaves (built-in and over-the-range) Maytag microwaves (select models) Amana microwaves (select models) LG over-the-range microwaves Frigidaire microwaves and range hoods (select models) Kenmore / Sears microwaves (multi-brand-built models) Hotpoint microwaves and range hoods Corningware microwaves (select models) Also fits select refrigerator interior light sockets, oven lights, and lava lamps using the same E17 base Important — Check Your Base Type: This bulb uses an E17 intermediate screw base. It will NOT fit appliances designed for E26 (standard household), E12 (candelabra), or E14 (European) bases. The E17 base is the most common base for over-the-range microwaves and range hoods, but check your old bulb or appliance manual to confirm before ordering. Some newer LG microwaves use a 30W bulb instead of 40W — verify your wattage requirement as well. Key Features 40-watt T8 appliance incandescent bulb — replaces burned-out interior lights in microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and select ovens Standard E17 intermediate screw base — fits the most common appliance bulb socket T8 shape: 1" (25mm) diameter × 2-3/8" (62mm) length — matches OEM bulb dimensions for clear cover fit 125V (works on AC 110-130V / 60Hz household power) 400 lumens of warm white light (~2800K) — matches the brightness and color of original incandescent OEM bulbs Dimmable — compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings without flicker 1000-hour rated lifetime — standard for appliance incandescent bulbs Working temperature range: High Temp Resistance 300℃.  — suitable for microwave and range hood heat environments Replaces 8206232A, 1890433, AP4512653, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, W10321375, W10598935, 6912W1Z004B, and many additional cross-references Multi-brand cross-compatibility: GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY replacement — installs in under 5 minutes Product Specifications Part Number XPIBE1740 Common OEM Replacements 8206232A, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, 6912W1Z004B Part Type Appliance Light Bulb (Incandescent) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Microwave, Range Hood, Refrigerator, Oven, Appliance Lights Wattage 40W Voltage 125V (operates AC 110-130V / 60Hz) Base Type E17 Intermediate Screw Base Bulb Shape T8 Dimensions 1" (25mm) D x 2-3/8" (62mm) L Brightness 280 lumens Color Temperature Warm White (~2800K) Cover Clear glass Dimmable Yes — compatible with HIGH/LOW microwave settings Lifetime over 2,000+ Working Temperature High Temp Resistance 300℃.  Compatible Brands GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware Installation Notes ⚠️ Let the Bulb Cool Completely Before Touching — Unplug Microwave Before replacing the bulb, unplug the microwave (or disconnect power at the breaker for hardwired range hoods) and allow the old bulb to cool completely — incandescent appliance bulbs run very hot, and the glass can stay hot for several minutes after the light is turned off. For an over-the-range microwave's interior light, the bulb is typically accessed through a small panel or by removing a screw-on cover inside the microwave cavity. For under-cabinet/exterior lights, access the bulb by removing the protective cover or vent grille on the bottom of the microwave or range hood. Unscrew the old bulb counterclockwise and dispose of it safely. Screw in the new XPIBE1740 bulb clockwise — hand-tight only, do not over-tighten. Avoid touching the glass envelope of the new bulb with bare fingers; skin oils on the glass can shorten bulb life. If you must touch the glass, wipe it down with a clean cloth before powering the appliance back on. Replace the cover, restore power, and confirm the light works. Tools needed: none for most models, or a small Phillips screwdriver if a panel/cover must be removed. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if I need an E17, E26, or E12 base bulb? The "E" number refers to the screw base diameter in millimeters. E17 (intermediate) is 17mm — the most common size for over-the-range microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and many appliance lights. E26 (medium/standard) is 26mm — typical household light bulbs (do NOT fit appliance sockets). E12 (candelabra) is 12mm — used for chandelier and decorative bulbs. E14 (European intermediate) is 14mm — common in Europe but rare in U.S. appliances. The XPIBE1740 is an E17 intermediate base. If your old bulb is noticeably smaller or larger than what you're holding, it's the wrong base — confirm by comparing dimensions or checking your appliance manual before ordering. Can I use an LED bulb instead of this incandescent one? In many appliances, yes — LED appliance bulbs with E17 intermediate bases are available and use significantly less power for similar brightness. However, LED bulbs sometimes have compatibility issues with the dimming/HIGH-LOW settings on microwaves, can flicker, or may not work with the appliance's lighting control circuit. The XPIBE1740 incandescent bulb is fully dimmable and a guaranteed direct match to the original appliance bulb's behavior. If you prefer LED for energy savings, confirm the LED is rated for appliance use, has an E17 base, and is dimmable for microwave applications before substituting. My LG microwave's bulb says 30W — does this 40W bulb fit? Physically, yes — both the 30W and 40W bulbs use the same E17 intermediate base and similar T8 shape. However, some LG microwave models specifically call for a 30W bulb (such as the 6912W1Z004B variant). Using a 40W bulb in a socket rated for 30W may cause the bulb to run hotter than designed, shortening its life or the surrounding socket components' life. Check your LG microwave's manual or the marking on the old bulb — if it specifies 30W, use a 30W bulb. The XPIBE1740 is 40W, suitable for the majority of microwaves that specify 40W bulbs. Why do appliance bulbs burn out faster than regular household bulbs? Appliance bulbs operate in harsher environments than typical household bulbs — high temperatures (microwaves and range hoods can hit 480°F nearby), heavy vibration from cooking appliances, repeated rapid on-off cycling, and frequent thermal shock from cooking steam. Even though they're rated for 1,000 hours of operation, real-world life in an appliance is often shorter than the same incandescent bulb in a household lamp. Buying multi-packs and replacing when one burns out is a common approach. Always allow the appliance to cool before swapping the bulb, and don't touch the new glass with bare fingers to maximize service life. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement bulb built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a branded GE, Whirlpool, or LG OEM bulb, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (T8, 1" × 2-3/8"), electrical specifications (40W, 125V, E17 base), brightness (400 lumens, warm white), and dimmable performance of the original appliance bulbs it replaces. Bulb spec compatibility (not brand) is what determines fit, so a properly specified aftermarket bulb performs identically to the OEM. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11210459 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The W11210459 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper models. This valve controls the flow of hot and cold water into the tub during the fill portion of each cycle — an electrical solenoid opens and closes the valve to admit exactly the right amount of water for the selected wash setting. Over time, mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve, or general wear in the solenoid coil, can cause the valve to fail. A failing valve typically shows up as the washer not filling with water, filling very slowly, or water continuing to leak into the tub after the wash has completed. It directly replaces AP6329217, W10701459, W10838319, W11038711, 4591321, PS12349267, W10869799, W11025984, and W11210459VP. Quick Answer The W11210459 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper top-load washers that won't fill, fill very slowly, or continue leaking water into the tub after the wash has finished. Replaces AP6329217, W10701459, W10838319, W11038711, 4591321, PS12349267, W10869799, W11025984, W11210459VP. The control panel can be removed more easily with a putty knife slid under each end to release the clips, rather than removing the back panel first. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling with water Washer filling very slowly Water continuing to leak into the tub after the wash cycle has completed No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11210459, W10701459, W10838319, W11038711, 4591321, W10869799, W11025984, 33190189, 33190190, W10423122, W10423124, W10868380, W10868381, AP6329217, AWP43369, EAP12349267, OEM18987660, PD00042885, PS12349267 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper washers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WTW5000DW1 and WTW4816FW2. Note — not the same as W11210463: A similarly-numbered valve, W11210463 (also cross-referenced as W11101906), is a separate part with its own cross-reference set (W10701461, W10883458, W10869803, W11038696, AP6329219), used on other Whirlpool washer models. The two are easy to confuse given how close the numbers are — always confirm you have the exact part number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate Regulates hot and cold water flow into the washer tub Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," and "leaks after cycle completes" symptoms caused by valve failure Factory Certified Part built to Whirlpool's engineering specifications Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections Replaces AP6329217, W10701459, W10838319, W11038711, 4591321, PS12349267, W10869799, W11025984, and W11210459VP Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Roper top-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Moderate DIY repair Product Specifications Part Number W11210459 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Top-Load Washers Function Controls hot and cold water flow into the tub Repair Difficulty Moderate Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Roper Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Use A Putty Knife To Release The Control Panel Disconnect power at the outlet, or shut off the house circuit breaker for the appliance, and shut off both hot and cold water supplies before beginning. Wear work gloves. The top control panel can be removed more easily by sliding a putty knife under the panel on each end to release the retaining clips, rather than removing the back panel first — one customer specifically noted this trick saved considerable time after trying the back-panel approach without success. With the panel released, locate the water inlet valve and photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector and the hot/cold water lines from the old valve, remove its mounting screws, and pull it free. Install the new W11210459 in the same position, reconnect the water lines and electrical connector fully, and secure the mounting screws. Reinstall the control panel. Restore the water supply and power, then run a full test cycle across a few temperature settings to confirm correct fill behavior with no leaking. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, putty knife, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer isn't filling with water. Is this the right part? Yes, this is the most direct symptom of a failed water inlet valve. Since this valve is what admits water from your household supply into the washer, a solenoid failure or internal blockage can prevent any water from entering at all, stopping the wash cycle from proceeding. What's the easiest way to access the control panel for this repair? Try sliding a putty knife under the panel at each end to release the retaining clips, rather than removing the back panel of the washer first. One customer specifically learned this trick after trying the back-panel approach with no luck, then found the putty knife method worked cleanly after watching an online tutorial. Is this the same as W11210463? No, these are two separate Whirlpool valve part numbers with different cross-reference sets, despite the similar numbering. Always confirm the exact part number from your washer's parts diagram or the sticker on your old valve rather than assuming based on a close number match. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the water inlet valve originally installed in your washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 297259515 Refrigerator Start Relay & 297286803 Capacitor The XPARTCO 297259515 kit bundles the compressor start relay and the matching run capacitor for Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, and Westinghouse refrigerators and freezers. These two components mount together at the compressor and work as a team every time the compressor cycles on: the start relay delivers the initial electrical boost needed to get the compressor's start winding moving, and the run capacitor helps the compressor motor start and run efficiently once it's going. Because they sit side by side on the same compressor terminals and tend to be diagnosed together, replacing both at once is the standard, most reliable fix rather than gambling on which single component has failed. The classic failure symptom for this pair is unmistakable: a repeated clicking sound from the compressor area as the relay tries and fails to start the compressor, paired with a refrigerator and freezer that are both running too warm because the compressor never actually starts. Real-world repair accounts back this up — technicians troubleshooting a clicking-but-not-starting compressor commonly find both the start relay and run capacitor bad at the same time, which is exactly why they're sold together as a kit. It directly replaces, for the relay: 297259502, 297259510, PS11728176, 4378266, AP5986809, EAP11728176; and for the capacitor: AP5306470, 216985001, 297286804, 1465079, 1940424, 215329902, 218909915, 7216985001, 7218909915, AH3495561, EA3495561, PS3495561, and EAP3495561. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 297259515 Refrigerator Start Relay & Capacitor Kit fixes Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, and Westinghouse refrigerators and freezers that won't start cooling, run too warm in both compartments, or make a repeated clicking sound from the compressor area. Includes start relay (297259515) and run capacitor (297286803). Capacitors store a dangerous electrical charge even after power is disconnected — always discharge before handling. What's In The Kit Component Part Number Function Compressor Start Relay 297259515 Delivers the initial electrical boost that kickstarts the compressor's start winding, then switches out once the compressor is running. Compressor Run Capacitor 297286803 15 µF, helps the compressor motor start and run efficiently once the relay has engaged it. Common Problems This Kit Fixes Refrigerator won't start cooling at all Fresh food and freezer compartments both running too warm Repeated clicking sound coming from the compressor area Compressor hums but never actually starts running Refrigerator cycling on and off repeatedly without ever cooling properly Refrigerator that stops suddenly during normal operation No cooling despite the refrigerator otherwise appearing to have power Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This start relay and capacitor kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 297259515, 297259502, 297259510, 4378266, AP5986809, EAP11728176, AFR15446, PD00029384, PS11728176, 297286803, AP5306470, 216985001, 297286804, 1465079, 1940424, 215329902, 218909915, 7216985001, 7218909915, 28PRC250150UFEX, AH3495561, EA3495561, EAP3495561, FIX3495561, AFR15479, PD00027525, PS3495561 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This kit is compatible with select Frigidaire refrigerators and freezers, and also fits select Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, and Westinghouse refrigerators and freezers built on the same platform, including model numbers such as: CFUFH21TW, CFUMC17QW, CCFU17M1TW FFSS2315T, FFSS2315TS0, FFSS2615T, FFSS2615TD0, FFSS2625T, FGSS2335T LFSS2312T, LFSS2612T FFFC22M6QW, FFFC22M6QWG, FFFH17F2QW, FFFH20F2QW, FFFU17M1QW FFVU17F2SC, FFVU17F4QW, FFVU17F4QWE LFFH17F3QW, LFFH20F3QM, LFFH20F3QW TFFU20F2QW, TFFU21M1QW, WWFC22M1SW Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, and check the printed rating on your original run capacitor before installing the new one — see the capacitor voltage note in Product Specifications below. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Complete 2-piece kit — compressor start relay and matching run capacitor in one purchase Addresses the two components most commonly found bad together on a clicking-but-not-starting compressor Resolves "won't start cooling," "runs too warm," and "clicking sound from the compressor" symptoms Run capacitor rated 15 µF Both components mount directly to the compressor terminals Direct drop-in replacement for both original components Replaces the full cross-reference set for 297259515 and 297286803 listed above Compatible with Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, and Westinghouse refrigerators and freezers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Kit Part Number 297259515 Kit Contents 1x Compressor Start Relay (297259515), 1x Run Capacitor (297286803) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Capacitor Rating 15 µF Mounting Both components mount directly to the compressor terminals Repair Skill Level Experienced DIYer Quantity 1 kit (1 relay + 1 capacitor) Compatible Brands Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, Westinghouse Note on capacitor voltage: Manufacturer-facing sources disagree on this capacitor's voltage rating — some list it as 15µF/120V, others as 15µF/250V. Before installing, check the voltage printed directly on your original capacitor's body and confirm the new capacitor's printed rating matches or exceeds it. We're not publishing a single voltage figure here rather than risk stating the wrong one — contact our support team if you'd like help confirming the correct rating for your model. Installation Notes ⚠️ Danger — The Run Capacitor Stores A Dangerous Electrical Charge Shut off power to the refrigerator at the outlet before beginning. The run capacitor stores an electrical charge even after power has been disconnected, and that charge can deliver a serious shock. Before touching the capacitor's terminals, discharge it by shorting the two terminals together using an insulated-handle screwdriver, or a proper capacitor discharge tool with a resistor. Never short the terminals with a bare metal tool held with your bare hand. ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Both Components Mount To The Compressor Disconnect power at the outlet before beginning, and move perishable food to a cooler for the duration of the repair. Shut off the water supply as well if your model has an ice maker or water dispenser. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Have an assistant help pull the refrigerator away from the wall for access to the rear panel. Locate the compressor in the machine compartment at the back or bottom of the unit, and find the start relay and run capacitor mounted directly to its terminals. Photograph the wiring and orientation of both components before removing anything. After confirming the capacitor is fully discharged, disconnect the old relay and capacitor from the compressor terminals, noting each terminal position. Install the new 297259515 relay and 297286803 capacitor from this kit in the same orientation, seating each firmly onto the correct compressor terminals. Reassemble any panels or retainers you removed, restore the water supply if applicable, and push the refrigerator back into place. Restore power and monitor the refrigerator over the next few hours to confirm the compressor starts reliably and both compartments begin cooling. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, 1/2" wrench or adjustable wrench, needle nose pliers, flat-head screwdriver, insulated-handle screwdriver or capacitor discharge tool, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions Do I really need both the relay and the capacitor, or could just one be bad? Either could technically be the sole cause, but in practice, technicians troubleshooting a compressor that clicks but won't start commonly find both the start relay and run capacitor have failed together — they sit on the same terminals under the same electrical stress every time the compressor cycles. Replacing both at once avoids having to open the compressor compartment a second time if the remaining original part fails shortly after. I hear a repeated clicking sound from the back of my refrigerator, but it's not cooling. Is this the kit I need? Yes, this is a textbook symptom for this exact pair of components. The clicking is the sound of the relay repeatedly attempting to engage the compressor's start winding and failing, often because the run capacitor isn't providing the boost the compressor needs to actually get moving. If both compartments are also warm, that confirms the compressor isn't starting at all. Why doesn't this listing state a single voltage rating for the capacitor? We found genuinely conflicting information across manufacturer-facing sources for this specific capacitor — some list it at 120V, others at 250V — and we'd rather flag that honestly than publish a number we can't fully verify. Before installing, check the rating printed directly on your original capacitor's body, and contact our support team if you'd like help confirming the correct value for your model. My refrigerator stopped suddenly during normal operation. Could this kit be the cause? Yes, a failing run capacitor or start relay can cause a refrigerator to stop suddenly, not just fail to start from cold. If your unit was running fine and then abruptly stopped cooling, checking these two components at the compressor is a reasonable next step alongside checking for tripped breakers or other obvious causes. Is this an OEM or aftermarket kit? This is an aftermarket replacement kit built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Frigidaire OEM kit, but each component is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and terminal fit of the original 297259515 start relay and 297286803 run capacitor used in compatible Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan, and Westinghouse refrigerators and freezers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084 The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle. Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands: Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more) Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series) KitchenAid top-load washers (select models) Roper top-load washers (select models) Estate top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef top-load washers (select models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Admiral top-load washers (select models) Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61 Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 8318084 OEM Part Number WP8318084 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 125–250V Frequency 50–60 Hz Motor Rating 1/2 HP Dimensions 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H Terminals 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire Color Gray / White Material Plastic housing Location Under the control panel, top rear left corner Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem? Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated. Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell? This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician. What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084? These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch. Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer? No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WR60X26866 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor The XPARTCO WR60X26866 is an aftermarket replacement axial evaporator fan motor for the fresh food section of select GE French door refrigerators, including the CFE28, CFE29, CWE23, CYE22, CYE23, DFE28, DFE29, GFD28, GFE26, GFE27, GFE28, GFE29, GFS26, GFS28, GNE26, GNE29, GYE22, GYS22, PFD28, PFE28, PFE29, PWE23, PYD22, PYE22, PYE23, and ZWE23 series. The evaporator fan motor pulls air through the evaporator coils to remove heat from the circulating air inside the refrigerator. Without a functioning evaporator fan, the refrigerator compartment cannot maintain its target temperature even when the compressor and condenser are running normally — the cold air generated at the evaporator simply isn't being circulated to the food storage areas. The WR60X26866 is a DC motor rated at 13.6V DC, 0.16A, with a fan housing measuring 3-4/7"L x 2"W x 3-1/8"H, plus a multi-color wire harness and plug approximately 11-1/2" long. It includes the axial fan blade and harness as a complete assembly. It directly replaces WR60X26033, WR60X26030, WR60X24303, WR60X10341, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR02X13733, 239D1412P006, V80E14MS2A3-57A611, 8817V-W1, 4546026, AP5985039, AP6278228, EAP12172983, PD00038765, PS11721915, and PS12172983. Important: if your refrigerator was built between May 2014 and March 2015 with serial range FF–HD, the unit's software must be updated before installing this fan motor — see FAQ below. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WR60X26866 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor fixes GE French door refrigerators where the fridge isn't cooling but the freezer is cold, the evaporator coils are frosted over, the ice maker isn't working due to insufficient cooling, or there's loud humming or grinding from the freezer area. Axial fan motor, 13.6V DC, 0.16A. Fan housing: 3-4/7"L x 2"W x 3-1/8"H; harness ~11-1/2"L. Replaces WR60X26033, WR60X26030, WR60X24303, WR60X10341, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR02X13733, 239D1412P006, V80E14MS2A3-57A611, 8817V-W1, 4546026, AP5985039, AP6278228, EAP12172983, PD00038765, PS11721915, PS12172983. Note: May 2014 – Mar 2015 build refrigerators (serial range FF–HD) require a software update before installation. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator not cooling properly while the freezer remains cold — classic evaporator fan failure Freezer cold but fridge warm — fresh food compartment air not being circulated Frosty or frozen evaporator coils due to insufficient air circulation Ice maker failure caused by inadequate cooling in the compartment Loud humming, grinding, or buzzing noise from the freezer or fresh food compartment Refrigerator running continuously without reaching set temperature Fan blade not spinning freely or seized when checked by hand Multimeter shows no continuity through the motor windings Replaces Part Numbers This evaporator fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WR60X26866, WR02X13733, WR60X10341, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR60X24303, WR60X26030, WR60X26033, V80E14MS2A3-57A611, 8817V W1, 239D1412P006, PD00038765, FIX12172983, AGE29673, AP6278228, PS12172983. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This evaporator fan motor is compatible with select GE French door refrigerators, including: GE refrigerators — CFE28, CFE29, CWE23, CYE22, CYE23 series (CFE28TP2MBS1, CFE28USHNSS, CWE23SP2MBS1, CYE22TP2MBS1 and related) GE refrigerators — DFE28, DFE29 series (DFE28JELCDS and related) GE refrigerators — GFD28, GFE26, GFE27, GFE28, GFE29 series (GFD28GBLBTS, GFE26GGHEBB and related) GE refrigerators — GFS26, GFS28, GNE26, GNE29 series GE refrigerators — GYE22, GYS22 series (GYE22HMKEES and related) GE refrigerators — PFD28, PFE28, PFE29 series (PFE28KELFDS and related) GE refrigerators — PWE23 series (PWE23KSKDSS and related) GE refrigerators — PYD22, PYE22, PYE23 series (PYE22KSKBSS and related) GE refrigerators — ZWE23 series and select related Café and Profile French door models Important — Software Update Requirement: If your GE refrigerator was manufactured between May 2014 and March 2015 with a serial number in the range FF–HD, the refrigerator's control software must be updated by GE factory service (or via Software Update Module WR98R882802) before installing this fan motor. Installing the new motor without the software update on these affected units may result in improper performance. Check your refrigerator's serial number plate before ordering. Key Features Axial evaporator fan motor for the fresh food section of GE French door refrigerators Pulls air through the evaporator coils to remove heat and circulate cold air through the refrigerator compartment DC motor — rated 13.6V DC, 0.16A — runs on DC voltage from the refrigerator control board Includes the axial fan blade and pre-attached multi-color wire harness with plug Fan housing dimensions: 3-4/7"L x 2"W x 3-1/8"H; harness and plug approximately 11-1/2" long Quiet operation — engineered to minimize hum and vibration in the refrigerator cabinet Plastic and metal construction, black housing with multi-color harness Replaces an extensive list of GE part numbers including WR60X26033, WR60X26030, WR60X24303, WR60X10341, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, and additional cross-references Compatible with GE, GE Café, and GE Profile French door refrigerators in the CFE, CWE, CYE, DFE, GFD, GFE, GFS, GNE, GYE, GYS, PFD, PFE, PWE, PYD, PYE, and ZWE series Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WR60X26866 Part Type Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor (Fresh Food / Axial) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application GE French Door Refrigerators Voltage 13.6V DC Amperage 0.16A Fan Type Axial Fan Housing Dimensions 3-4/7"L x 2"W x 3-1/8"H Harness Length Approximately 11-1/2 inches Color Black housing with multi-color harness Material Plastic / Metal Includes Axial fan motor assembly with harness Software Update Required For May 2014 – Mar 2015 builds (serial range FF–HD) — use WR98R882802 Compatible Brands GE, GE Café, GE Profile Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The evaporator fan motor for the fresh food section is mounted on the back wall of the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment, behind an access panel. Take a photo of the existing fan position and wire harness routing before disconnecting. Remove the shelves and any internal components blocking access to the back wall, then remove the screws holding the rear access panel in place. Disconnect the fan motor's wire harness connector and remove the mounting screws securing the old motor. Note the fan blade orientation on the motor shaft. Install the new WR60X26866 motor assembly in the same position with the blade facing the same direction, reconnect the wiring harness, and reinstall the mounting screws and access panel. Replace the shelves and other internal components, restore power, and confirm the fan spins and the refrigerator cools properly. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My fridge is warm but my freezer is cold — is the evaporator fan motor the problem? Yes — this is one of the most recognizable symptoms of evaporator fan motor failure on GE French door refrigerators with a separate fresh food evaporator. The freezer side has its own cooling circuit and remains cold, while the fresh food side relies on this fan to circulate air across its evaporator coils. When the fan fails, the freezer continues working but the fresh food compartment loses its cold air supply, warming up while the freezer stays at temperature. If you also notice frost building up on the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the fresh food compartment, the fan failure is confirmed. What is the software update requirement for May 2014 – March 2015 refrigerators? GE issued a software update for certain refrigerators manufactured between May 2014 and March 2015 (serial range FF–HD) before they could properly support newer revisions of the WR60X26866 evaporator fan motor. If your refrigerator falls in this date and serial range, the control software must be updated before installing this fan motor — either by GE factory service or by using the Software Update Module part WR98R882802. Installing the new fan on an unupdated unit can result in improper performance. Check the serial number plate inside your refrigerator (typically on the left side wall) to confirm whether your unit is affected. Refrigerators built outside this range do not require the update. How do I test if the evaporator fan motor has failed? Unplug the refrigerator, then access the fan behind the rear panel of the fresh food compartment. First, try turning the fan blade by hand — if it doesn't spin freely, is stiff, or seizes, the motor bearing has failed. Next, listen during normal operation — if the motor is unusually noisy or makes a grinding sound, the bearings are worn even if it still spins. Finally, with the unit unplugged and the motor disconnected, use a multimeter on the motor windings to check for continuity. If the windings show no continuity, the motor has failed electrically. Also check for approximately 11–14V DC at the connector when the refrigerator is running — if voltage is present but the motor doesn't spin, the motor has failed. My fridge has two evaporator fans — which one does this replace? Some GE French door refrigerators have separate evaporator fan motors for the freezer and the fresh food sections. The WR60X26866 is the fresh food evaporator fan motor — it's the axial fan located behind the rear panel of the fresh food compartment, not in the freezer. If your symptom is "freezer cold, fridge warm," this is the correct part. If your symptom is "freezer warm" or "ice maker not making ice but fridge is fine," the freezer evaporator fan motor (a different part number) is more likely the cause. Confirm which compartment has the cooling problem before ordering. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, fan housing, electrical specifications, and pre-attached wire harness configuration of the original WR60X26866 evaporator fan motor. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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EXP652 Dryer Belt and Idler Pulley Replaces WPW10112954, 279640 The EXP652 is an aftermarket replacement drum belt and idler pulley kit for Whirlpool and Maytag electric and gas dryers, and also fits select KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models. These two components work together: the drum belt circles the drum and attaches to the motor pulley to transmit rotation, while the idler pulley rides against the belt to maintain proper tension so it doesn't slip or sag during operation. Because these two parts share the same drive path and tend to wear on a similar timeline, they're commonly sold and replaced together. Symptoms of failure include the dryer not starting, the drum not tumbling or spinning, and noise issues such as squealing or rubbing during operation. It directly replaces W10112954, WPW10112954, AP6015116, PS11748388 (drum belt), and AP3094197, PS334244, 279640, and 3388674 (idler pulley). Quick Answer The EXP652 Dryer Belt and Idler Pulley fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore electric and gas dryers that won't start, won't tumble or spin, or make squealing/rubbing noise. Includes drum belt and idler pulley. Replaces W10112954, WPW10112954, AP6015116, PS11748388, AP3094197, PS334244, 279640, 3388674. These two parts wear together — replacing both at once, rather than just the one that failed, helps avoid reopening the dryer again soon after. What's In The Kit Component Replaces Function Drum Belt WPW10112954 / W10112954 Circles the drum and attaches to the motor pulley to transmit rotation and keep the drum tumbling. Idler Pulley 279640 Rides against the belt to maintain proper tension so it doesn't slip or sag. Common Problems This Kit Fixes Dryer won't start Drum won't tumble or spin Squealing or rubbing noise during operation Belt slipping or sagging, causing inconsistent tumbling Extended or inconsistent drying times Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dryer belt and idler pulley kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: Belt Replaces Part Numbers WPW10112954, W10112954, 1447719, AP6015116, AWP48873, EAP11748388, PD00003553, PS11748388 Idler Pulley Replaces Part Numbers 279640, 279640VP, 2958, 3388672, 697692, TJ279640, W10468057, AH334244, EA334244, ER279640, AWP39098, PD00002356, EAP334244, AP3094197, PS334244. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This kit is compatible with select Whirlpool electric and gas dryers, and also fits select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore dryers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as MED8000AG0, MED8000AW0, MGD6000XW0, MGD6000XW1, MGD6000XW2, MGD8000AG0, MGD8000AG1, MGD8000AW0, MGD8000AW1, 4KMEDC300BW0, 7MMGD0100TQ1, and MGD5500FC0. Note: Whirlpool also uses a different idler pulley, W10837240, on other dryer models — this kit specifically pairs the WPW10112954 belt with the 279640 idler pulley. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement kit — drum belt and idler pulley in one purchase Resolves "won't start," "won't tumble or spin," and "squealing/rubbing noise" symptoms Restores smooth drum rotation with proper belt tracking and tension Reduces noise and vibration from a worn belt or pulley Direct drop-in replacement matching the original belt length and pulley mounting Replaces W10112954, WPW10112954, AP6015116, PS11748388, AP3094197, PS334244, 279640, and 3388674 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore electric and gas dryers Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number EXP652 Set Contents 1x Drum Belt (replaces WPW10112954), 1x Idler Pulley (replaces 279640) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Whirlpool / Maytag Electric and Gas Dryers Belt Length Approx. 92-1/2" Belt Profile Flat, 5 ribs, 4 grooves Related Idler Pulley W10837240 (for other models, sold separately) Repair Difficulty Moderate — front/top panel and drum removal required Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — This Is A Bigger Repair Requiring Significant Disassembly Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the top and front panels of the dryer, then the drum, to access the belt and idler pulley. Remove the old drum belt from around the drum and motor pulley. Remove the old idler pulley from its mounting bracket. Install the new EXP652 idler pulley in the same position, making sure it spins freely by hand before continuing. Route and install the new drum belt correctly around the drum and motor pulley, matching the original path exactly, and re-tension it through the idler pulley. Reinstall the drum, then reassemble the front and top panels. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm quiet, smooth operation with the drum tumbling normally and no squealing or rubbing noise. Tools needed: nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My dryer's motor runs but the drum won't turn. Is this the right kit? Yes, this is the classic symptom addressed by a worn or broken drum belt, and since the idler pulley works together with the belt to maintain proper tension, replacing both at once addresses the most common causes of this problem in one repair. Do I need to replace both parts, or just the one that failed? You can replace just the failed component if you've confirmed which one is actually bad, but these two parts share the same drive path and tend to wear out around the same time — a worn pulley can accelerate belt wear, and a worn belt puts extra strain on the pulley. Replacing both together, since you'll already have the dryer largely disassembled for access, helps avoid a second teardown soon after. Is this the same idler pulley as your other Whirlpool dryer belt kits? Not necessarily — Whirlpool uses more than one idler pulley design across its dryer lineup. This kit specifically pairs the WPW10112954 belt with the 279640 idler pulley. Other kits may pair the same belt with a different pulley, such as W10837240, used on other models. Always confirm your full model number before ordering. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement kit built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the belt length, rib pattern, and pulley design of the original WPW10112954 belt and 279640 idler pulley used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, and related electric and gas dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WE4M137 Dryer High Limit Thermostat The XPARTCO WE4M137 is an aftermarket replacement high limit thermostat for GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryers. Mounted on the upper right side of the heater housing, this safety thermostat monitors the temperature of the heating circuit and cuts power to the heating element (and in some conditions the motor) if the dryer runs hotter than it should — typically from restricted airflow, a clogged vent, or a failing cycling thermostat. Unlike a one-time thermal fuse, this is an auto-resetting high limit thermostat (rated L315-65F): it opens at approximately 315°F to stop overheating, then automatically closes again once the unit cools down, without needing to be replaced after each trip. This is a direct-fit aftermarket replacement built to the same temperature rating and mounting as the original thermostat. If this component trips repeatedly, it's worth checking the underlying cause of the overheating at the same time — a clogged lint trap or restricted exhaust vent is the most common root cause. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WE4M137 High Limit Thermostat fixes a GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore dryer that shuts off a few minutes into a heat cycle, stops early and won't restart until it cools down, or cycles on and off intermittently. Auto-resetting, rated to open at approximately 315°F. Classic symptom: dryer runs fine for a few minutes then quits on heat, and won't restart again until it's had time to cool. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer shuts off a few minutes into a heat-dry cycle Dryer stops early and won't restart until it cools down Intermittent shutdowns during the drying cycle Clothes coming out damp because the cycle keeps cutting short Dryer won't start at all if the thermostat has failed in an open position Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This thermostat directly replaces the following part numbers: WE4M137, WE4M457, 276438, WE04M0137, WE04X25197, 559C131G04, AGE25626, AH267900, AP2042565, EAP267900, EA267900, PD00001228, PS267900 These numbers span several generations of GE's own part numbering for this thermostat as model lines and sub-assemblies were updated — all are the correct replacement for this component regardless of which number appears on your dryer's parts diagram. Compatibility This thermostat is compatible with 28+ GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer models, including: Kenmore 2661532110, GE 2661532210 Numerous additional GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer and washer-dryer combo models Note: This thermostat has also been referenced for some Fisher & Paykel dryer applications in sourcing, though we were not able to confirm a specific Fisher & Paykel model list. Confirm your model number against your dryer's parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering. Key Features Direct-fit aftermarket high limit thermostat for GE-built dryers Auto-resetting design — no need to replace after each trip, unlike a one-time thermal fuse Rated to open at approximately 315°F to prevent overheating damage Resolves early-shutoff, won't-restart-until-cool, and intermittent cycling symptoms Fits 28+ GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dryer and washer-dryer combo models Straightforward swap — typically 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number XPWE4M137 OEM Part Number WE4M137 Part Type Dryer High Limit Thermostat (Auto-Reset) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Temperature Rating L315-65F (Opens ~315°F, Auto-Resets on Cooling) Location Upper Right Side of Heater Housing Application GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore Dryers Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the dryer or switch off its circuit breaker before beginning. Remove the dryer's rear or front panel per your model's service guide to access the heater housing — the thermostat is mounted on its upper right side. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old thermostat, noting their positions, and remove the mounting screw holding it in place. Install the new thermostat in the same position and reconnect the wire terminals. Before closing the dryer back up, clean out the lint trap and check the exhaust vent for restrictions — a clogged vent is the most common cause of this thermostat tripping repeatedly, and clearing it now can prevent a repeat failure. Frequently Asked Questions My dryer shuts off a few minutes into the cycle and won't restart — is this the part I need? Yes, this is a classic symptom of a failing high limit thermostat. It's designed to cut power when the dryer overheats and automatically reset once things cool down, so if your dryer won't restart until it's had time to sit, this thermostat is a likely cause. Is this a one-time fuse like the thermal fuse, or does it reset itself? This is an auto-resetting thermostat, not a one-time thermal fuse. It opens to cut power when the dryer overheats, then closes again automatically once the unit cools — it doesn't need to be replaced every time it trips. If yours has failed and won't reset or close again, that's when replacement is needed. Why does my dryer keep tripping this thermostat? Repeated tripping is usually caused by restricted airflow — a clogged lint trap, a crushed or blocked exhaust duct, or a bird's nest or lint buildup in the outside vent hood — or a failed cycling thermostat elsewhere in the heating circuit. Clear the airflow path when you replace this thermostat, or the new one may trip again. How do I test if this thermostat has failed? With the dryer unplugged, you can test the thermostat with a multimeter for continuity across its terminals at room temperature. No continuity when it should be closed (cool) is a sign it has failed and needs replacement. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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