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XPARTCO W11168740 Washer Water Valve (Cold Side) The XPARTCO W11168740 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers, located on the top back of the cabinet where the hot and cold supply hoses connect. Unlike its companion hot-side valve (sold separately as W11168743, a single-solenoid design), this cold valve uses two internal solenoid coils in one blue-bodied housing. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes the appropriate solenoid to open the water path; once the correct level is reached, it closes again. Because it's a dedicated cold-only valve, a failure here produces a distinctive symptom: cold-only fills stop working, slow down dramatically, or don't stop when they should, while hot fills (governed by the separate hot valve) continue working independently. Rated 120V, 60Hz, with push-on outlet connections sealed by rubber grommets. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn seal at the outlet connection. It directly replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, and PS12348073. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11168740 Washer Water Valve (Cold Side) fixes Whirlpool-built top-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, keeps filling and won't stop, leaks, or throws a fill-related error code — while hot water fills normally. Blue-bodied, 2-solenoid cold-only valve, 120V, 60Hz, push-on outlet with rubber grommets. Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, PS12348073. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11168743. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer keeps filling with cold water and won't stop, leading to overfill Water leaking at the cold connection point Fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Cold wash or cold rinse cycles specifically affected while other cycles run fine Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11168740, WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built top-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers — WTW series Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Select Kenmore top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Verified model numbers include: WTW5500XL0, WTW5500XL2, and WTW5640XW3. Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve, identifiable by its blue body and two internal solenoids. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11168743 — a single-solenoid design. The two are not interchangeable. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement dedicated cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers Two internal solenoid coils in one blue-bodied housing, identifiable at a glance from the single-solenoid hot valve Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "won't stop filling," and "leaking at the connection" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 120V, 60Hz Push-on outlet connections sealed with rubber grommets Approximately 3-3/8"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-3/8"H Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, and PS12348073 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number XPW11168740 OEM Part Number W11168740 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold Side Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Top-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Solenoids 2 (dedicated cold water function) Color Blue / Teal / Black Material Plastic and metal Outlet Connection Push-on with rubber grommets Dimensions Approx. 3-3/8"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-3/8"H Companion Part W11168743 (hot water valve, sold separately) Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the screws securing the top panel (a 1/4" nut driver or socket handles most models), then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit next to each other and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the old cold valve, disconnect the push-on outlet hose (check the rubber grommet for wear and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked), remove the two mounting screws holding the valve, and pull it free — leave the hot valve (W11168743) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11168740 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, reconnect the electrical connector(s), and press the outlet hose back onto its fitting with the grommet properly seated. Reattach the cold water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm cold water fills at the normal rate, and stops when it should, with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Since your washer uses separate hot and cold valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing while hot cycles are unaffected, this cold-side valve is the correct part to replace. How can I tell this valve apart from the hot-side valve just by looking at it? This cold valve has a blue body and two internal solenoid coils, while the companion hot-side valve (W11168743) is a single-solenoid design. If you're staring at the old valve trying to confirm which one you're removing, the color and solenoid count are a quick visual check. Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time? Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11168740 valve alone is sufficient. Some people choose to replace both while the top panel is already off, especially on an older washer, but it isn't required. My washer keeps filling with cold water and won't stop. Is that dangerous? It can lead to overflow and water damage if left unaddressed, so it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if this happens rather than waiting. A valve that won't stop filling usually means a worn internal seal is no longer sealing shut when the solenoid de-energizes, letting water continue flowing. This valve is the correct replacement for that symptom. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dual-solenoid design, connection type, and dimensions of the original W11168740 cold water valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11414076 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Circulation Pump Motor Assembly The W11414076 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement circulation pump and motor assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, and Ikea dishwashers. The circulation pump is the heart of the wash system — it pressurizes and delivers water to the spray arms, driving the jets that blast food and residue off your dishes throughout the wash and rinse cycles. When the circulation pump fails, cleaning performance collapses: dishes come out dirty or unrinsed, water pressure at the spray arms drops, and the machine may make loud droning or grinding noises. This is a complete circulation pump and motor assembly. Common causes of failure include worn motor bearings (which produce a continuous drone that gets louder over time), deteriorated impellers, and seal breakdowns. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11414076 is the current production part that supersedes W11122133. It also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, and OEM20940317. Note: this assembly does not include the drain pump — your existing drain pump transfers over to the new assembly during installation. Installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools (the dishwasher must be pulled out and laid on its back to access the pump). Quick Answer The W11414076 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Circulation Pump Motor Assembly fixes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, and Amana dishwashers where dishes come out dirty or unrinsed, water pressure at the spray arms is weak, water pools in the tub, or the motor makes a loud droning/grinding noise. Complete circulation pump + motor assembly. Genuine OEM. Current part superseding W11122133; also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, OEM20940317. Before ordering: if the motor runs but water is weak, try cleaning the impeller filter screen first — see the FAQ. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishes coming out dirty or unrinsed — circulation pump not delivering water to the spray arms Weak water pressure at the spray arms — impeller worn or motor failing Loud droning noise that gets louder over time — worn motor bearings Grinding or unusual noise during operation Water retention/pooling in the bottom of the tub Leaks from the pump housing — seal breakdown Motor humming but spray arms barely turning Reduced cleaning performance overall Motor not running at all — failed pump motor windings Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This circulation pump motor assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11414076, W11122133, AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, OEM20940321, AWP45352, PD00070783 W11414076 is the current OEM production part superseding W11122133. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This circulation pump motor assembly is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands: Whirlpool dishwashers — select models (verify with your parts diagram) KitchenAid dishwashers — select models Maytag dishwashers — select models Jenn-Air dishwashers — select models Amana dishwashers — select models Magic Chef dishwashers — select models Admiral dishwashers — select models Norge dishwashers — select models Roper dishwashers — select models Kenmore / Sears dishwashers — select Whirlpool-built models Ikea dishwashers — select Whirlpool-built models This assembly may comprise several parts — refer to your specific parts diagram to verify included items. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Circulation pump and motor assembly — pressurizes and delivers water to the spray arms for effective cleaning and rinsing Resolves "dirty dishes," "weak water pressure," "loud droning motor," "grinding noise," and "water pooling" symptoms when caused by pump failure Addresses the common failure modes: worn motor bearings, deteriorated impellers, and seal breakdowns Current OEM production part — directly supersedes W11122133 Also replaces AP6980104, EAP12745416, PS12745416, 4958907, and OEM20940317 Motor separates from the pump case with 3 Torx screws — some customers replace only the motor if the pump case is fine Drain pump is not included — your existing drain pump transfers to the new assembly Compatible with Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, and Ikea dishwashers DIY repair — installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W11414076 Supersedes W11122133 Part Type Dishwasher Circulation Pump & Motor Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform) Function Delivers water to the spray arms for washing and rinsing Motor Attachment Separates from pump case with 3 Torx screws Drain Pump Not included — transfer your existing drain pump Location Bottom of dishwasher (access by laying unit on its back) Compatible Brands Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — Major Access Required Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. This is a more involved repair because the circulation pump is on the bottom of the dishwasher. Throw the circuit breaker, remove the lower access panel, and open the electrical box to completely disconnect the electrical from the dishwasher. Disconnect the water supply line and the drain line. Remove the anchor screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, then pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet. Have a large towel ready — rotate the dishwasher and lay it on its back to access the pump on the bottom. Photograph everything before disconnecting. Disconnect all connections to the main circulation pump: the drain pump, the electrical connections, the leak-detection plate and circuit, and the water lines. Undo all clamps to the circulation pump. Remove the old circulation pump assembly. Transfer your existing drain pump to the new W11414076 assembly — it is not included. (If you're only replacing a noisy motor and the pump case is good, the motor separates from the case with 3 Torx screws and can be swapped on its own.) Install the new assembly, reconnect the drain pump, electrical connections, leak-detection plate, water lines, and all clamps, matching your photos. Stand the dishwasher back up, slide it into the cabinet, reconnect water/drain/electrical, and secure the anchor screws. Run a short test cycle and check for leaks. Note: use your dishwasher's onboard diagnostic function to confirm the pump was the issue — light/error codes vary by model, so check the quick guide that came with your specific dishwasher rather than relying on codes listed online for other models. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, Torx driver (T-set), nut driver, pliers, large towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions The motor runs but water barely reaches the spray arms — do I definitely need a new pump? Maybe not — try this first, because it could save you the entire repair. On many KitchenAid/Whirlpool-platform dishwashers, there's a fine filter screen INSIDE the circulation pump on the impeller. This screen can clog with microplastics and fine food particles over time (sometimes after a surprisingly small number of wash cycles), which chokes off water flow even though the motor is running perfectly. The screen can look clean but still be blocked — a real-world test is to hold water in the mesh cup: if it holds water like a cup instead of draining freely, it's clogged. Cleaning it with a toothbrush restores full flow. To access it you do have to pull the pump (the same disassembly as replacing it, then 2 Torx screws to open the pump), so if you're already this far in, disassemble and inspect the screen BEFORE installing a new pump — you may find the old pump is perfectly good. Running a dishwasher-safe cleaning product through the machine first is also worth a try. My dishwasher motor is loud and getting louder — is that the pump? Yes, that's a classic sign of worn circulation pump motor bearings. The motor bearings wear out over time, and as they degrade they produce a continuous drone that steadily gets louder. Once the bearings have failed, the noise won't go away on its own and the motor should be replaced. On this assembly, the motor separates from the pump case with 3 Torx screws — some customers who only have a bearing/noise problem (and an otherwise good pump case) simply swap the motor and reuse the case. If you order the full assembly, you get both, and you can decide during the repair whether to swap just the motor or the whole thing. Does this come with the drain pump? No — the W11414076 is the circulation pump and motor assembly, and it does not include the drain pump. During installation, you'll transfer your existing drain pump from the old assembly to the new one (it detaches and reattaches). This is normal for this repair. If your drain pump is also failing (separate symptoms: won't drain, water left standing after the cycle), that's a different part you'd order separately. The circulation pump handles washing/spray pressure; the drain pump handles emptying the tub. What's the difference between W11414076 and W11122133? These are the same circulation pump assembly across production revisions. W11122133 was the earlier OEM part number, and W11414076 is the current production version that Whirlpool issued as its direct replacement. Both are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram shows W11122133, the W11414076 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers both. The cross-references AP6980104, PS12745416, and 4958907 are additional catalog identifiers for the same part. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same circulation pump and motor assembly installed in compatible Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W11168743 Washer Water Valve (Hot Side) The XPARTCO W11168743 is an aftermarket replacement hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers. This is a single-solenoid valve dedicated to the hot water supply — it has one hose fitting inlet and one water outlet, and its only job is to open when the control calls for hot water and close again once the correct fill level is reached. This platform pairs the hot valve with a separate two-solenoid cold valve (sold separately as W11168740), so the hot and cold sides are independent components rather than one combined valve body. Because it's a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here produces a distinctive symptom: hot-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while cold fills (governed by the separate cold valve) continue working normally on their own. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing fully, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn rubber grommet or gasket at the push-on outlet connection. It directly replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, and EAP12348074. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11168743 Washer Water Valve (Hot Side) fixes Whirlpool-built top-load washers where hot water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or fails to stop filling. Single-solenoid hot-only valve, 120V, 60Hz, standard hose fitting inlet with push-on outlet connection. Replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, EAP12348074. This is the hot-side valve only — the companion cold-side valve is sold separately as W11168740. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with hot water while cold water fills normally Hot water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer overfills or won't stop filling Water leaking or trickling into the drum on the hot side when the washer is off Washer not washing properly due to insufficient hot water reaching the drum Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water reaching the washer despite the water heater and supply line working correctly Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the hot supply connection Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11168743, WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, AWP43142, PD00040928, PS12348074, EAP12348074 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built top-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana top-load washers (select models) Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric top-load washers (select models) Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, and Estate top-load washers (select models) Select Kenmore and Ikea top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Note — hot side only, and a different platform than our front-load valves: This is the hot water valve for Whirlpool's top-load platform. The matching cold water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11168740 — the two are not interchangeable. This part is also a different valve family entirely from the front-load W11688994 (hot) / W11688995 (cold) valves elsewhere in our catalog; those fit a different washer platform and will not work here. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which valve fits your washer. Key Features Aftermarket replacement single-solenoid hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers Standard hose fitting inlet with a single push-on water outlet and rubber grommet seal Resolves "won't fill with hot water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "won't stop filling" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 120V, 60Hz Approximately 3-1/2"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-1/4" deep Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required Replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, and EAP12348074 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Roper, and Kenmore top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number XPW11168743 OEM Part Number W11168743 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Hot Side Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Top-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Solenoids 1 (dedicated hot water function) Inlet Connection Standard hose fitting Outlet Connection Push-on with rubber grommet Dimensions Approx. 3-1/2"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-1/4" deep Companion Part W11168740 (cold water valve, sold separately) Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot water supply hose from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit next to each other and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old hot valve, disconnect the push-on outlet hose (check the rubber grommet for wear and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked), remove the mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the cold valve (W11168740) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11168743 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, reconnect the electrical connector, and press the outlet hose back onto its fitting with the grommet properly seated. Reattach the hot water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm hot water fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Hot water won't fill but cold water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Since your washer uses separate hot and cold valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the hot side only affects hot fills while the cold valve keeps working independently. If hot-specific cycles are the ones failing while cold cycles are unaffected, this hot-side valve is the correct part to replace. Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time? Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that's actually failed. If only hot fills are affected, replacing this W11168743 valve alone is sufficient. Some people choose to replace both while the top panel is already off, especially on an older washer, but it isn't required. Is this the same valve used on your front-load washer listings? No. This valve is built for Whirlpool's top-load platform. The front-load hot/cold valve pair in our catalog (W11688994 and W11688995) is a completely different part family for a different washer design, and the two are not interchangeable. Always check whether your washer is a top-load or front-load model, and verify your exact model number, before ordering either. My washer has no hot water at all, but the water heater is working. What should I check first? Before assuming the valve has failed, confirm the hot water supply valve at the wall behind the washer is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris that could be restricting flow, and make sure the hot supply hose isn't kinked. If those check out and hot water still isn't reaching the drum, the valve itself is the likely cause. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the single-solenoid design, connection type, and dimensions of the original W11168743 hot water valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and related top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DD31-00016B Dishwasher Drain Pump Motor - Compatible with Samsung Dishwashers Product Description Restore your dishwasher’s performance with the DD31-00016B Dishwasher Drain Pump Motor. This genuine OEM replacement pump ensures efficient water drainage during wash and rinse cycles, preventing water pooling and error codes. Designed for Samsung dishwashers. Replaces part numbers: DD31-00016B, AP7244901, PS17504318, EAP17504318, PD00089738. Verify your model number or contact support for assistance. Key Features: ✅ Brand Compatibility: Fits select Samsung dishwasher models. 💧 Specifications: OEM drain pump motor, 120V, 60Hz, 3.5" x 3.5" x 2.5", with plastic impeller and electrical connector for reliable drainage. DD31-00016B Motor Bldc PUMP; BD15-3C, 2800-3400RPM, 230 💰 Cost-Effective: OEM performance at a competitive price. 🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires a screwdriver, pliers, work gloves; typically installed in 20–40 minutes. 🛡️ Reliable Fixes: Resolves water pooling, poor drainage, or 5E/SE error codes. Safety First: Unplug the dishwasher and turn off the water supply before installation to avoid shock or leaks. Shop Parts-O-Matic for high-quality replacement appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Keep your dishwasher running smoothly today! Add to cart now for a budget-friendly fix!

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W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve The W11434044 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher water inlet valve assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher and connects to the household cold water supply line. When the control board calls for water during the fill cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely when the correct water level is reached. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't get water into the tub — meaning it can't wash, rinse, or complete a cycle. Rated 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximate dimensions: 2.9" H x 2.3" W with a 0.9" threaded orifice for the water supply connection. The package includes the water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and two hose clamps — everything needed for the connection between the valve and the dishwasher's water divider. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11434044 directly replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908. Important: the water inlet connection uses plastic threads, which are easily damaged by over-tightening or cross-threading — hand-tighten the water line carefully during installation. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, aren't washing properly, drain immediately after filling, or leak at the valve. 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximately 2.9"H x 2.3"W. Genuine OEM. Includes inlet valve, water outlet pipe, and 2 hose clamps. Replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, PS16217908. Compatible with WDT750SAKZ, KDTM404KPS, MDB4949SKZ, WDTA50SAKZ, KDTE204KPS, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024, WDT740SAL, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK series and related models. Plastic-thread inlet connection — hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher not filling with water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded Dishwasher filling too slowly — valve partially clogged with sediment or weak solenoid Dishes not being washed properly due to insufficient water fill Dishwasher fills but doesn't reach normal water level Water leaking from the valve body or its connections Dishwasher continuously running water even when the cycle should be complete — valve stuck open Dishwasher won't advance past the fill phase due to insufficient water detection Excessive cycle times as the dishwasher tries to fill from a partially clogged valve Multimeter test on the valve solenoid shows no continuity Replaces Part Numbers This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11434044, W11025970, W11025972, W11187724, AP6987233, AWP44732, EAP16217908, PD00064823, PS16217908. W11434044 is the current OEM production part superseding W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands: Whirlpool dishwashers — WDPA70SAMZ0, WDPA70SAMZ2, WDPA70SAMZ3, WDPS7024RV0, WDPS7024RZ0 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT740SALB2, WDT740SALB3, WDT740SALW2, WDT740SALW3, WDT740SALZ3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT750SAKB0/B2/B3, WDT750SAKV0/V2/V3, WDT750SAKW0/W2/W3, WDT750SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT751SAPZ0, WDT751SAPZ1 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT970SAKV2, WDT970SAKV3, WDT970SAKZ2, WDT970SAKZ3 series Whirlpool dishwashers — WDTA50SAKB0/B2/B3, WDTA50SAKT0/T2/T3, WDTA50SAKV0/V2/V3, WDTA50SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series KitchenAid dishwashers — KDTM404KPS, KDTE204KPS and related models Maytag dishwashers — MDB4949SKZ and related models JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric — select Whirlpool-built dishwashers Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-platform dishwashers Dimensions: approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W · 0.9" threaded orifice diameter Includes water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and 2 hose clamps for a complete connection set Current OEM production part — supersedes W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970 Also replaces AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908 Compatible with Whirlpool WDT740SAL, WDT750SAK, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK, WDTA50SAK, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024 series and select KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W11434044 Supersedes W11187724, W11025972, W11025970 Part Type Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 120V AC Frequency 50/60 Hz Wattage 6/5W Dimensions Approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W Threaded Orifice Diameter 0.9" Inlet Thread Material Plastic (hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping) Body Material ABS Plastic / Stainless Steel Includes 1x Inlet Valve, 1x Water Outlet Pipe, 2x Hose Clamps Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN PLASTIC THREADS Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply line and will spill when disconnected. Critical: the W11434044's water supply connection uses plastic threads. Multiple installers have reported stripping the plastic threads by over-tightening or cross-threading the water line during installation — always hand-tighten the fitting carefully and align the threads squarely before tightening. If your dishwasher is installed under a counter, working through the lower access panel is possible but tight — many installers find it easier to pull the dishwasher partially out from the cabinet, or lay it on its side, to reach the inlet connection cleanly (this also lets you use a 90-degree hose fitting without cross-threading). Remove the lower access panel (typically 2 screws) at the front bottom of the dishwasher. Locate the water inlet valve. Photograph the wire harness and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve. Squeeze the hose clamps with pliers and slide them back to release the outlet hose from the valve, then disconnect the wire harness plug. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place. Install the new W11434044 valve, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the outlet hose and hose clamps. Push the electrical connector's fixing plate firmly into place before connecting the wire harness plug — this prevents the connector from falling out during operation. Reconnect the household water supply — hand-tighten the fitting carefully to avoid stripping the plastic threads. Restore water and power. Run a test cycle and check for leaks at all connections. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench (used lightly on plastic threads only!), channel-lock pliers, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions My dishwasher isn't filling with water — is the inlet valve the problem? Very likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed dishwasher water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the household water supply to the dishwasher is turned on at the shutoff valve; 2) check the household water pressure at a nearby fixture (a nearby faucet) to make sure your home has normal pressure; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean but the dishwasher still won't fill, the W11434044 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue. You can also test the solenoid with a multimeter — no continuity means the solenoid has burned out. What is the difference between W11434044 and W11025970/W11025972/W11187724? These are the same water inlet valve across production revisions. W11025970 was the original OEM part number, W11025972 and W11187724 were mid-generation revisions, and W11434044 is the current OEM production version. All are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram or the part on your appliance shows any of these numbers, the W11434044 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers all of them. Why is over-tightening the water line connection such a common issue? The water supply inlet on the W11434044 has plastic threads to reduce cost and simplify manufacturing — but plastic threads are much less forgiving than brass or metal fittings. Cross-threading (starting the fitting at an angle instead of straight-in) or applying too much torque with a wrench will strip the plastic threads or split the fitting. Always align the water line fitting carefully by hand first, get several turns of engagement before applying any tool, and use only enough torque to snug the connection (typically hand-tight plus a very light quarter-turn with a wrench). If the threads are already stripped, the valve or a replacement plastic fitting will need to be ordered — the connection can't be repaired. Should I lay the dishwasher on its side for this repair? If you're finding it difficult to reach the water inlet connection cleanly through the lower access panel — which is a common complaint from installers — laying the dishwasher on its side (or pulling it partially out from the cabinet) makes the connection much easier to work with. This is especially helpful if your water supply line uses a 90-degree hose fitting that needs a straight approach for correct thread engagement. Before laying the dishwasher down, disconnect all connections and drain any residual water from the tub to avoid spills. Note that if the door has been damaged or bent, laying the unit on its side can worsen the damage — inspect first. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W11130359 Washer Suspension Rod Kit – Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, and Roper Washers Product Description Reduce vibration and restore smooth, stable operation with the XPARTCO W11130359 Washer Suspension Rod Kit. This high-quality aftermarket replacement supports the washer tub and absorbs movement during wash and spin cycles. Worn or broken suspension rods can cause loud banging noises, excessive shaking, or unbalanced loads. Replacing them with this reliable XPARTCO kit ensures balanced performance and extends the life of your washer. Replaces Part Numbers W11130359, W11027215, 4813873, W10594082, W10785954, W10821704, W10901060, W11033536, W11226784, AP6261901, PD00042502, EAP12347544, PS12347544. Compatibility This replacement suspension rod kit fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, and Roper top-load washers. Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): Whirlpool WTW5000DW1, Maytag MVWC565FW0, and Amana NTW4516FW3. Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. ✅ Key Features 🔄 Aftermarket Replacement – Built to match OEM performance and stability 🌀 Reduces Vibration – Keeps washer tub balanced during spin cycles 💰 Cost-Effective Solution – High-quality kit at a lower cost than OEM parts 🛠️ Complete Kit – Includes four suspension rods, bushings, and suspension springs 🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Solves excessive shaking, banging, or unbalanced load problems 📐 Product Specification Part Number: W11130359 Component Type: Washer Suspension Rod Kit Includes: 4 suspension rods with springs and mounting bushings Material: Heavy-duty steel with corrosion-resistant coating Mounting: Direct-fit installation under washer tub Compliance: Built to OEM-equivalent quality standards (not OEM) 🛠️ Installation Notes Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, socket wrench ⚠️ Safety First: Always unplug the washer before performing repairs to prevent electrical shock or injury. Steps: Disconnect power and remove the washer lid or top panel. Support the washer tub with a sturdy object or strap. Remove the old suspension rods from their mounting holes. Install the new XPARTCO W11130359 rods one by one, attaching springs and bushings. Reassemble panels, plug in the washer, and run a test cycle to confirm smooth operation. ⏱️ Time Required: 30–40 minutes 📦 Shop With Confidence 🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders ⚙️ Trusted Appliance Parts Supplier 🔄 30-Day Return Policy Eliminate noise and vibration — Add to Cart Now for a stable, long-lasting repair!

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XPARTCO WE03X32037 Dryer Drum Belt Replaces WE12M24 The XPARTCO WE03X32037 is an aftermarket replacement drum drive belt for GE, Hotpoint, and RCA portable, compact, and unitized stack dryers. The belt is a long, slender loop that wraps all the way around the outside of the drum, passes around the idler tension pulley, and finishes around the small drive motor pulley. That belt is the only mechanical link between the motor and the drum — there are no gears and no direct coupling — so when it breaks, the dryer behaves in a very specific way: the console lights up, the motor runs, the blower moves air, and the drum simply sits there. Open the door and spin the drum by hand and it coasts freely with no resistance at all. This belt measures approximately 79 inches long and about 1/4 inch wide, with a 4-rib multi-groove profile molded into the inner face. The 79" length is the defining specification here — GE uses several visually similar 4-rib dryer belts across its lineup, and the difference between them is length. Belts fail from heat and age: the rubber hardens, the ribs glaze and begin slipping under a heavy wet load, and eventually the belt cracks through or snaps. Fraying edges, a squeal at startup, a rhythmic thump timed to drum rotation, or black rubber dust in the bottom of the cabinet all point to a belt nearing the end of its life. It directly replaces WE12M24, WE12M9, WE12X79, WE12X0079, AP3418890, AP7186820, PS755943, and related numbers. Installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WE03X32037 Dryer Drum Belt fixes GE, Hotpoint, and RCA portable, compact, and stack dryers where the motor runs but the drum won't turn, the drum spins freely by hand, or the dryer squeals, thumps, or rumbles during a cycle. Approximately 79" long, 1/4" wide, 4 ribs, black rubber. Fits DDP1370/DDP1375/DDP1380 portable and DSKP333/DSKS333/DSKS433 stack models. Replaces WE12M24, WE12M9, WE12X79, WE12X0079, AP3418890, AP7186820, PS755943. Not the same belt as the 89-1/2" full-size GE WE12M29 — length is what separates them. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer runs and hums but the drum does not turn — the classic broken belt symptom Drum spins freely by hand with no resistance when the door is open Loud squealing or screeching that begins as soon as the cycle starts Rhythmic thumping or slapping noise timed to drum rotation — cracked or split belt Grinding or rumbling from inside the cabinet as a frayed belt drags Drum turns slowly, intermittently, or stalls under a heavy wet load — glazed belt slipping Clothes not drying because the drum isn't tumbling to expose them to airflow Black rubber dust or belt fragments in the bottom of the cabinet Visible cracking, fraying, glazing, or stretching on the old belt Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dryer drum belt directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WE03X32037, WE12M24, WE12M9, WE12X79, WE12X0079, AP3418890, AP7186820, PS755943, PS16729246, EAP16729246, AH755943, EA755943, 943874, AGE25647, PD00074729 WE03X32037 is the current GE part number; WE12M24 is the long-running legacy number that most service diagrams and older belts still carry. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This drum belt is compatible with select portable, compact, and unitized stack dryers from the following brands: GE portable and compact electric dryers — DDP1370, DDP1375, and DDP1380 series GE unitized stack and Spacemaker laundry centers — DSKP333, DSKS333, and DSKS433 series Hotpoint compact and stack dryers (select GE-built models) RCA compact and stack dryers (select GE-built models) Select Kenmore compact dryers built on the GE platform Verified model numbers include: DDP1370GAM, DDP1370SAM, DDP1370SBM, DDP1375GAM, DDP1375GBM, DDP1375GCM, DDP1375GDM, DDP1375GEM, DDP1375SAM, DDP1375SBM, DDP1380GAM, DDP1380GBM, DDP1380GCM, DDP1380GDM, DDP1380GFM, DDP1380SAM, DDP1380SBM, DDP1380SCM, DDP1380SDM, DDP1380TAM, DSKP333EC0WH, DSKP333EC0WW, DSKP333EC2WW, DSKP333EC3WW, DSKP333EC4WW, DSKP333EC5WW, DSKP333EC6WW, DSKS333EC0WH, DSKS333EC0WW, DSKS333EC2WW, DSKS333EC3WW, DSKS333EC4WW, DSKS333EC5WW, DSKS333EC6WW, DSKS433EA0AA, DSKS433EB3WW, DSKS433EB5WW, DSKS433EB6WW, and DSKS433EB7WW. Note — 79" portable/compact belt only: GE uses several visually identical 4-rib dryer belts that differ only in length, and they are NOT interchangeable. This belt is approximately 79 inches, for portable, compact, and stack units. It is NOT the WE12M29 / WE03X29897 belt (89-1/2") used on full-size GE dryers, NOT the WE12X10009 belt (87"), and NOT the WE12X10014 / WE12X42 belt (87-13/16"). Fitting a longer belt leaves slack the idler cannot take up, and the belt will slip or walk off the pulley within minutes. Measure your old belt end to end, or verify your full model number, before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement drum drive belt — transfers motor rotation to the dryer drum Approximately 79" long, the correct length for GE portable, compact, and unitized stack dryers 4-rib multi-groove profile molded into the inner face for positive grip on the motor pulley 1/4" width matched to the original belt track and idler pulley Durable black rubber construction that resists heat hardening and cracking Resolves "motor runs but drum won't turn," "squealing," "thumping," and "drum spins freely by hand" symptoms Multi-rib design prevents slipping under heavy wet loads where a worn belt would stall Direct drop-in replacement — no cutting, splicing, or modification required Replaces WE12M24, WE12M9, WE12X79, WE12X0079, AP3418890, AP7186820, PS755943, AH755943, EA755943, and 943874 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and select Kenmore compact and stack dryers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair — installs in 45–90 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number XPWE03X32037 OEM Part Number WE03X32037 (formerly WE12M24) Part Type Dryer Drum Drive Belt Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application GE Portable, Compact, and Unitized Stack Dryers Length Approx. 79 in. Width 1/4 in. Ribs 4 ribs / 3 grooves Material Rubber Color Black Rib Orientation Ribbed side faces the drum Routing Around drum → idler tension pulley → drive motor pulley Fuel Type Electric and gas dryers Quantity 1 belt Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — Photograph Belt Routing First Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. On a gas model, also close the gas shutoff valve before moving the cabinet. Wear work gloves — the sheet metal edges inside the cabinet are sharp. Before removing anything, photograph how the old belt routes around the drum, around the idler tension pulley, and around the motor pulley. If the belt is already broken and the routing isn't visible, note that the ribbed side of the belt faces toward the drum, with the smooth back riding against the idler pulley. Access on these compact and stack units is generally from the front: remove the top panel, then the control panel and front panel, which frees the drum enough to lift or tilt it forward. Vacuum out accumulated lint while the cabinet is open — restricted airflow and lint packed around the motor are what cook belts prematurely. Slip the new belt around the drum roughly one-third of the way back from the front lip, ribbed side against the drum, and seat it in the polished wear track the old belt left behind. Reach underneath, route the belt around the idler pulley, then loop it around the small motor pulley. Useful trick: tape the belt loosely to the drum with a strip of masking tape before you reach underneath, so it can't slide off while you work the idler into position. Many GE idler arms have a locked or pre-loaded position — if yours does, remember to release it after the belt is seated, or the belt will have no tension and the drum will stall under load. Once routed, rotate the drum several full turns by hand and confirm the belt tracks straight and stays centered without walking toward an edge. While you're in there, spin the idler pulley and each drum roller by hand; if any is noisy, gritty, or has side-to-side play, replace it now, because a seized idler or flat-spotted roller will destroy the new belt quickly. Reassemble, restore power, and run a short empty cycle listening for squeal or thump before loading it. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver or socket set, putty knife, masking tape, flashlight, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I confirm the belt is broken and not the motor? With the dryer unplugged, open the door and try to spin the drum by hand. An intact belt gives firm resistance, because you're turning the motor and idler through the belt. If the drum coasts freely like a bicycle wheel, the belt is broken or has jumped off its pulleys. Sound is the other tell: with a broken belt the motor hums and the blower whooshes normally, so the dryer sounds like it's running perfectly while the drum sits still. A failed motor usually buzzes and does nothing, or trips the breaker outright. What's the difference between WE03X32037 and WE12M24? They are the same belt across production revisions. WE12M24 was the long-running legacy GE number and WE03X32037 is the current number that supersedes it. If your dryer's parts diagram or the old belt itself shows WE12M24, WE12M9, WE12X79, or WE12X0079, this listing is the correct replacement. The remaining cross-references (AP3418890, AP7186820, PS755943, AH755943, EA755943, 943874) are catalog identifiers used by various parts distributors for the same belt. Can I use a longer GE belt if this one is out of stock? No. GE's 4-rib dryer belts look nearly identical and differ mainly in length, which is precisely why they get substituted by mistake. This belt is about 79"; the full-size GE belt WE12M29 is 89-1/2", and WE12X10009 and WE12X10014 are around 87". On a compact or portable drum, that extra 8 to 10 inches is far more slack than the idler arm can absorb, so the belt runs loose, slips on the motor pulley, and typically walks off within minutes. If you're unsure, lay your old belt flat in a loop and measure its circumference before ordering. Which way do the ribs face? On this GE platform the ribbed side faces toward the drum, so the ribs grip the drum surface while the smooth back of the belt rides against the idler pulley. This is worth stating plainly because rib orientation is not universal across manufacturers — some other platforms run the grooves against the motor pulley instead. Whenever possible, photograph the old belt before removing it. The polished wear track on the drum will also show you exactly where the belt is meant to sit. The dryer squeals but the drum still turns. Belt or something else? Could be either, and it's worth diagnosing before you order. A glazed or hardening belt squeals as it slips on the motor pulley, usually loudest at startup and under a heavy wet load. But a dry idler pulley bearing makes a very similar squeal, and worn drum rollers add a low rumble underneath. With the cabinet open, spin the idler and each roller by hand — they should turn smoothly and silently. If they're gritty, noisy, or have play, replace them along with the belt, since they share the same teardown and you'd otherwise be opening the dryer twice. Why did my belt fail in the first place? Usually heat and age — rubber hardens over years of thermal cycling until it cracks. Two things accelerate it sharply. Restricted airflow from a lint-clogged vent makes the whole cabinet run far hotter than designed, which cooks the belt. And a seized idler pulley or a flat-spotted drum roller forces the belt to drag against a stationary surface, shredding it in short order. If your belt failed unusually early, clean the vent ducting end to end and inspect the idler and rollers rather than assuming the new belt will simply last longer. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (approximately 79" length, 1/4" width), 4-rib profile, rubber construction, and drum-drive function of the original WE03X32037 / WE12M24 belt used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and related portable, compact, and unitized stack dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11230103 Dishwasher Sump Pump and Motor Replaces Part Numbers:  W11230103, W10620220, 4591207, AP6329759, PS12349660.  Description: This Pump & Motor is an OEM part for Whirlpool dishwasher models. It serves as the heart of the wash system by providing water circulation and spray throughout all cycles. The pump circulates water mixed with detergent to clean dishes effectively.    California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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W11087376 Dishwasher Genuine OEM Pump and Motor Assembly Fits specific Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore Dishwasher models Description: This Dishwasher Pump & Motor is an OEM replacement part for specific Whirlpool dishwasher models. As the main component for water circulation, it contains both the water pump and motor required to power it. Replaces Part Numbers:W11087376, W10917114, 4534143, AP6237961, PS12074533. California Residents only WARNING: California’s Proposition 65 

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XPARTCO WH13X26637 Washer Water Valve The XPARTCO WH13X26637 is an aftermarket replacement quad water inlet valve for GE top-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, and Kenmore models. This valve controls the flow of water into the washer from the household supply line, using two internal valves — each with its own wire terminals — to manage water flow and temperature blending for the wash cycle. When the control calls for a fill, the corresponding solenoid opens to admit water and closes once the correct level is reached. Rated 120V, 6/5W. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve body, a burned-out internal solenoid coil, and general wear over years of use. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the washer not starting, an error code related to water fill, or — one of the most common complaints — water continuing to drip into the tub between cycles even when the washer isn't running, since a worn internal seal can fail to shut off completely. It directly replaces WH13X24058, 4546358, AP5999608, AP6282070, EAP11729480, EAP12171559, PS11729480, PS12171559, WH13X26637-25PK, AGE26282, and PD00037665. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WH13X26637 Washer Water Valve fixes GE top-load washers (and select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, and Kenmore models) that won't start, show a water-fill error code, or have water dripping into the tub between cycles. Quad valve design — 2 valves, each with its own wire terminals. 120V, 6/5W. Replaces WH13X24058, 4546358, AP5999608, AP6282070, EAP11729480, EAP12171559, PS11729480, PS12171559, WH13X26637-25PK, AGE26282, PD00037665. Dripping into the tub between cycles, even with the washer off, is a classic sign of a worn valve seal that isn't shutting off completely. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't start Error code related to water fill displayed on the control panel Water dripping into the tub between cycles, even when the washer isn't running Washer filling slowly or only partially No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH13X26637, 4546358, AGE26282, AP6282070, EAP11729480, EAP12171559, PS11729480, PS12171559, WH13X24058, WH13X26637-25PK, PD00037665 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water valve is compatible with select GE top-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, and Kenmore washers built on the GE platform, including model numbers such as: GTW680BSJ3WS, GTW680BSJ4WS, GTW680BSJ5WS, GTW680BSJ6WS GTW685BPL0DG, GTW750CPL1DG, GTW720BSN0WS PTW605BPR1DG, PTW605BSR0WS, PTW605BSR1WS PTW700BPT0DG, PTW700BST0RS, PTW700BST0WS PTW705BPT0DG, PTW705BST0RS, PTW705BST0WS Note: This is a top-load washer valve, distinct from GE's front-load valves used on other GE washer platforms. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement quad water inlet valve — two valves, each with its own wire terminals Resolves "won't start," "water fill error code," and "dripping into the tub between cycles" symptoms caused by valve failure Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections Rated 120V, 6/5W Replaces WH13X24058, 4546358, AP5999608, AP6282070, EAP11729480, EAP12171559, PS11729480, PS12171559, WH13X26637-25PK, AGE26282, and PD00037665 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, and Kenmore top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY-friendly repair, typically 15 to 30 minutes Product Specifications Part Number XPWH13X26637 OEM Part Number WH13X26637 Part Type Washer Quad Water Inlet Valve Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Top-Load Washers Voltage 120V Wattage 6/5 W Valve Design Quad — 2 valves, each with separate wire terminals Repair Difficulty Easy — 15 to 30 minutes Quantity 1 valve assembly Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves. Unscrew the hot and cold supply lines from the bottom of the old valve, then carefully pull the valve assembly away from the wall for access. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything, since this valve has two separate wire terminal sets and multiple outlet hoses. Remove the cover securing the valve in place, disconnect the electrical connectors and outlet hoses, and take out the old valve — the entire assembly typically comes out in one piece. Insert the new WH13X26637 into the same opening, making sure it fits tightly and securely, and secure it with screws. Reconnect all outlet hoses to their original positions, reconnect the electrical connectors fully, and put the cover back on. Reconnect the hot and cold supply lines, tightening securely. Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings to confirm each fill function works correctly with no leaking. Tools needed: screwdriver, spanner, pliers or adjustable wrench, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Water keeps dripping into my washer tub even when it's not running. Is this the valve? Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing valve, and a well-documented one for this exact part. If you've already checked the hoses and confirmed they're not the source of the leak, a worn internal seal in the valve is the most likely remaining cause — the seal fails to shut off completely, letting a small amount of water continue dripping through even between cycles. Shutting off the water supply is a temporary workaround, but replacing the valve is the permanent fix. Why does this valve have two sets of wire terminals? This is a quad valve design, meaning it houses two separate internal valves in one assembly, each with its own electrical connection. This allows the washer to independently control different water functions — such as hot and cold fill — from a single combined unit rather than requiring two completely separate valve housings. Is this a top-load or front-load washer valve? This is a top-load washer valve, compatible with GE's GTW and PTW model series. It's a different valve design from the ones used on GE's front-load washer platforms, so confirm your washer type and model number before ordering. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the quad valve design, wattage, and connection type of the original WH13X26637 valve used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, RCA, Café, and Kenmore top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11612327 Dishwasher Genuine Circulation Pump Circulation pump and motor assembly Replaces Part Numbers: W11612327, W11024423, W10805387, W11521436, AP7194668, PS16744935. Description: This Pump is a Genuine component for specific Whirlpool dishwasher models. It refers to the water pump component that circulates water throughout the dishwasher during cycles. Common cause of a faulty pump can include normal wear over many uses. The continuous motor operation puts strain on internal seals and impellers. Mineral deposits from hard water can also clog pump parts over time.

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XPARTCO MFG63099101 Washer Door Strike (Door Lock Hook) The XPARTCO MFG63099101 is an aftermarket replacement washer door strike — also called a door lock hook or door latch hook — compatible with a wide range of LG front-load washers and Kenmore 796-series washing machines. The door strike is the metal hook component mounted on the inside edge of the washer door. When the door closes, the hook enters the door lock switch on the front panel and engages the electromagnetic lock mechanism, signaling the control board that the door is closed and locking it for safe operation during wash and spin cycles. Without an intact door strike, the lock can't grip anything, and the washer will not start. When the strike breaks — typically from repeated use, sudden impact, or stress over thousands of door cycles — the washer will not start, may stop mid-cycle, may display DE1 or DE2 error codes, leak water around the door, or fail to lock altogether. It directly replaces MFG63099101, AGF77417823, AP5787149, 2759645, PS8752721, EAP8752721, and PD00046132. Important: replacing the strike requires removing the inside door panel to access the hook — note that the inner glass insert is loose during disassembly and must be handled carefully. Often replaced alongside the matching door lock switch (EBF61315802, sold separately). Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO MFG63099101 Washer Door Strike fixes LG and Kenmore 796-series front-load washers where the door won't lock, won't start, stops mid-cycle, displays DE1 or DE2 errors, or leaks at the door. Metal hook attaches to the inside of the washer door — engages the lock switch when the door closes. Replaces MFG63099101, AGF77417823, AP5787149, 2759645, PS8752721, EAP8752721, PD00046132. Often paired with the door lock switch (EBF61315802, sold separately). Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer door not latching properly — strike broken or worn down Washer not starting because the door isn't detected as locked Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a door fault DE1 or DE2 error codes displayed on the control panel Minor water drips or leaks around the door during operation — door not sealing because the strike isn't fully engaging Door strike visibly broken, chipped, or missing on the inside edge of the door Door not staying closed — strike worn from repeated impact Washer not powering on Replaces Part Numbers This washer door strike directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: MFG63099101, 2759645, AGF77417823, PD00046132, EAP8752721, AP5787149, PS8752721. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Note: the number printed on your original door hook may be a production batch code rather than the OEM part number — this does not affect fit. Compatibility This door strike is compatible with select LG and Kenmore 796-series front-load washers, including: LG front-load washers — WM1388HW, WM1455HWA series LG front-load washers — WM3050CW, WM3080CW, WM3170CW, WM3170CW/00, WM3180CW series LG front-load washers — WM3250HVA, WM3250HWA, WM3270CW series LG front-load washers — WM3370HRA, WM3370HVA, WM3370HVA/01, WM3370HWA, WM3370HWA/01, WM3370HWA/00 series LG front-load washers — WM3400CW, WM3500CW, WM3500CW/00, WM3555HWA, WM3555HWA/00 series LG front-load washers — WM3570HVA, WM3570HVA/00, WM3575CW series LG front-load washers — WM3600HVA, WM3600HWA, WM3600HWA/00, WM3670HRA, WM3670HRA/00, WM3670HVA, WM3670HWA series LG front-load washers — WM3700HVA, WM3700HWA, WM3770HVA, WM3770HWA series LG front-load washers — WM3900HBA, WM3900HWA series LG front-load washers — WM4000HBA, WM4000HWA, WM4270HVA, WM4270HVA/00, WM4370HKA, WM4370HWA series Kenmore / Sears washers — 796-series (79641162410, 79641162411, 79641262610, 79641283310, 79641283311, 79641302610, 79641303610, 79641382410, 79641382411, 79641383410, 79641383411, 79641482410, 79641482411, 79641483410, 79641483411, 79641582410, 79641582411, 79641583211, 79641583410, 79641583411, 79641962610, 79641963610 and many related models) Note: If both the door strike (MFG63099101) and the door lock switch (EBF61315802) have failed or are worn, replacing them together as a matched set ensures reliable door locking and prevents premature wear on the new strike. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features Metal door strike (door lock hook) — mounts to the inside edge of the washer door and engages the door lock switch when the door closes Resolves DE1 and DE2 error codes when caused by a broken door strike on compatible LG and Kenmore washers Restores the proper engagement between the door and latch assembly for a firm, consistent connection every cycle Durable metal construction — designed to withstand repeated opening and closing impact Replaces MFG63099101, AGF77417823, AP5787149, 2759645, PS8752721, EAP8752721, and PD00046132 Compatible with LG WM1388, WM3050, WM3170, WM3270, WM3370, WM3500, WM3570, WM3600, WM3670, WM3700, WM3770, WM3900, WM4000, WM4270, WM4370 series and Kenmore 796-series front-load washers Often replaced together with the door lock switch (EBF61315802, sold separately) Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number MFG63099101 Part Type Washer Door Strike (Door Lock Hook / Latch Hook) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (LG / Kenmore LG-built platform) Location Inside edge of washer door Material Metal Often Paired With Door Lock Switch (EBF61315802, sold separately) Error Codes Resolved DE1, DE2 (when caused by broken strike) Compatible Brands LG, Kenmore (LG-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Don't Drop the Inner Glass Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Open the washer door — if the door is stuck locked because of a broken strike, use a putty knife to pry the white latch on the door lock through the bottom service opening to release the door. With the door open, locate the screws around the perimeter of the inner door panel. Remove the screws to release the inner door panel from the outer frame. Important: the inner glass insert is loose once the panel is unscrewed — support the glass with one hand as you pry the panel away to prevent it from falling out and breaking. Note the orientation of the old door strike (the direction it points and how it's seated). Use needle-nose pliers or tweezers to pull out the retaining pin holding the old strike in place, then remove the broken strike. Install the new MFG63099101 strike in the same direction and orientation as the old one — installing it backwards will prevent the lock from engaging. Reinsert the retaining pin to secure it. Carefully reposition the glass insert into the door, reinstall the inner door panel, and tighten the screws. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm the door locks properly and there are no leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers or tweezers, putty knife (for stuck doors), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What's the difference between the door strike and the door lock switch? These are two separate parts that work together to lock the washer door. The door strike (MFG63099101) is the metal hook attached to the inside edge of the washer door — when the door closes, the hook is what physically enters the lock assembly. The door lock switch (EBF61315802) is the assembly mounted on the front panel just inside the door opening — it contains the electromagnetic mechanism that grips and locks the strike, and the electrical sensor that tells the control board the door is closed. If the strike is broken, the lock has nothing to grip and the washer won't start. If the switch is broken, the strike can still enter the slot but the lock won't engage or send the right signal. Both can fail independently, and often wear together — many repairs call for replacing both at the same time. My washer door is stuck closed — how do I get it open to install this? If the door is stuck in the locked position because the existing strike has broken off inside the lock or the lock won't release, you can use a putty knife or thin flat tool to manually release the door lock through the bottom service opening of the washer. Reach in through the access panel at the lower front of the unit and locate the white plastic latch on the back of the door lock assembly — gently push or pry it to release the mechanism. The door should then open. Once open, you can proceed with the strike installation. Always disconnect power from the washer first. The number on my old strike doesn't match — is it still compatible? In many cases, yes. LG sometimes prints production batch codes on door strikes that look like part numbers but don't match the official OEM part number. As long as your washer's parts diagram lists MFG63099101 (or one of its cross-references: AGF77417823, AP5787149, 2759645, PS8752721, EAP8752721, PD00046132), this strike is the correct fit. If you're unsure, contact our support team with your washer model number and we'll verify before you order. Should I replace the door lock switch (EBF61315802) at the same time? Not always, but often. The strike and the lock switch work together as a pair — if one is worn, the other has typically experienced the same load over thousands of cycles and is approaching the end of its service life. When a broken strike is the cause of the failure, examine the lock switch when the panel is open: if the lock mechanism shows visible wear, doesn't grip the new strike firmly, or has corroded contacts, replace it at the same time. Since the door is already partially disassembled and you have the washer apart, doing both at once saves a second repair session. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from durable metal to match the dimensions, mounting configuration, and lock-engagement function of the original MFG63099101 door strike used in compatible LG and Kenmore 796-series front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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