XPARTCO MEE61841401 Gas Oven Igniter
The XPARTCO MEE61841401 is an aftermarket replacement oven burner igniter compatible with select LG and Kenmore gas ranges in the LDG, LRG, LSG, LSS, LTG, and LSR series. The igniter is a flat glow bar hot surface igniter made from silicon carbide that draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it, then heats to ignition temperature to light the gas burner. When the igniter weakens or fails, the oven will not heat, will take too long to preheat, or the igniter will glow without ever lighting the burner.
This igniter draws 3.3–3.8 amps at 120V AC and reaches operating temperatures of 1,800°F–3,100°F within approximately 60 seconds. The igniter body measures 3-1/2 inches long x 1-3/4 inches wide x 7/8 inches high, with a lead/plug assembly extending approximately 10-3/4 inches from the igniter. It includes a 2-wire harness/plug, mounting bracket, and 2 porcelain wire connectors to accommodate direct plug-in or spliced installation. Directly replaces OEM part numbers MEE61841401, MEE61841403, and MEE63084901.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO MEE61841401 Gas Oven Igniter fixes LG and Kenmore gas ovens that won't heat, take too long to preheat, display error codes F9 or F11, or have an igniter that glows but never lights the burner. Flat glow bar style, silicon carbide. Draws 3.3–3.8A at 120V. Igniter body 3-1/2" L x 1-3/4" W x 7/8" H with 10-3/4" lead. Includes bracket and 2 porcelain wire connectors. Replaces MEE61841403 and MEE63084901.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven not heating at all — gas is not igniting
Oven takes excessively long to preheat
Igniter glows orange or red but never lights the gas burner
Error codes F9 or F11 displayed on LG gas ranges
Gas smell when oven is turned on but burner does not light
Oven heats inconsistently or shuts off mid-cycle
Igniter burned out or visibly cracked or broken
Replaces Part Numbers
This oven igniter directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
MEE61841401, MEE63084901, 1599783, MEE61841403, EAP3535362, ALG1385007, PD00001851, 095225468650, AH3535362, EA3535362, AP5214765, PS3535362.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This igniter is compatible with select gas ranges from the following brands and series:
LG gas ranges — LRG series (freestanding)
LG gas ranges — LDG series (freestanding)
LG gas ranges — LSG series (slide-in)
LG gas ranges — LSS series
LG gas ranges — LTG series
LG gas ranges — LSR series
Kenmore / Sears gas ranges (select LG-built models)
Compatible with both single and double oven models. Always verify your model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Flat glow bar hot surface igniter — draws current through the oven safety valve to open it, then ignites the gas burner
Silicon carbide construction — superior heat resistance, high melting point, corrosion and oxidation resistant
Draws 3.3–3.8 amps at 120V AC — correct amperage range to open the LG gas safety valve
Operating temperature: 1,800°F – 3,100°F with approximately 60-second heat-up time
Igniter body: 3-1/2" L x 1-3/4" W x 7/8" H; lead/plug assembly: approximately 10-3/4" from igniter body
Plug-in installation — includes 2-wire harness/plug, mounting bracket, and 2 porcelain wire connectors for splicing if needed
Compatible with single and double oven models
Directly replaces MEE61841401, MEE61841403, and MEE63084901 — no modification required in most cases
Resolves error codes F9 and F11 on compatible LG gas ranges
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–20 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
MEE61841401
Also Replaces
MEE61841403, MEE63084901
Part Type
Gas Oven Burner Igniter (Flat Glow Bar Hot Surface Igniter)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Gas Ranges and Ovens (single and double oven)
Igniter Style
Flat glow bar, cageless
Material
Silicon Carbide / Metal / Ceramic / Porcelain / Plastic
Colors
White / Black / Gray
Amperage Draw
3.3 – 3.8 Amps
Voltage
120V AC
Operating Temperature
1,800°F – 3,100°F
Heat-Up Time
Approximately 60 seconds
Igniter Body Dimensions
3-1/2" L x 1-3/4" W x 7/8" H
Lead / Plug Length
Approximately 10-3/4 inches from igniter body
Includes
Igniter, mounting bracket, 2-wire harness/plug, 2 porcelain wire connectors
Error Codes Resolved
F9, F11
Compatible Brands
LG, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Gas Appliance Safety Warning This part is used in gas ranges. Working with gas appliances carries risk of gas leaks, fire, and explosion if installed incorrectly. Always shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve and unplug the range before beginning any repair. If you smell gas at any point during or after installation, leave the area immediately and contact your gas utility provider. If you are not confident working on gas appliances, have this part installed by a qualified appliance technician.
⚠️ Handle With Care — Fragile Igniter Element The silicon carbide igniter element is extremely fragile and sensitive to contamination. Do not touch the ceramic bar with bare hands under any circumstances — oils from skin will damage the element and significantly shorten its lifespan. Handle only by the bracket, wires, and plug. To install: unplug the range and shut off the gas. Remove the oven racks and oven bottom panel. Disconnect the old igniter's wire connector. Secure the new MEE61841401 igniter to the burner bracket with the mounting screws. If the plug is a direct match to your range's harness, plug it in. If not, cut the wires and use the included porcelain wire connectors to splice the new igniter to the existing wiring. Reinstall the oven bottom panel, restore gas supply and power, and run a test cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between MEE61841401, MEE61841403, and MEE63084901?
These are all part numbers for the same LG flat glow bar oven igniter used across different model ranges and production runs. MEE63084901 is the earlier part number; MEE61841401 and MEE61841403 are updated versions. All three are interchangeable, and this aftermarket replacement is compatible with all of them.
How do I know if my oven igniter needs to be replaced?
The most common signs are the oven not heating at all, taking much longer than normal to preheat, or the igniter glowing orange but never lighting the gas burner. A healthy igniter glows bright orange and ignites the burner within about 60 seconds. If it glows dimly or stays on indefinitely without the burner lighting, the igniter has weakened and is no longer drawing enough current to open the gas safety valve. Error codes F9 or F11 on LG ranges can also indicate a failed igniter.
Do I need to splice the wires or does it plug straight in?
This igniter includes a 2-wire harness/plug for direct plug-in installation on most compatible LG models. If the connector does not match your range's existing harness, cut the old connector off and use the 2 porcelain wire connectors included in the kit to splice the new igniter to the existing wiring. Do not use standard plastic wire nuts — only porcelain connectors should be used near the oven burner due to the high heat involved.
What do error codes F9 and F11 mean on an LG range?
On compatible LG gas ranges, error code F9 typically indicates an oven heating failure, and F11 can indicate a shorted or failed igniter circuit. Both codes can be triggered by a weak or failed oven igniter. Replacing the MEE61841401 igniter resolves these error codes in many cases — though other causes such as a failed gas safety valve or control board issue should also be ruled out if the problem persists after replacement.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from silicon carbide, metal, ceramic, and porcelain to match the electrical specifications and physical dimensions of the original MEE61841401 igniter.
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XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The XPARTCO W11688995 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve designed as a direct fit for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The cold water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the cold water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for cold water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with cold water at all, fill very slowly, fail to dispense fabric softener, continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display F8E1 or LO FL error codes. Construction is blue and white plastic with metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688995, W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737. Often replaced as a pair with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688995 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers displaying F8E1 or LO FL error codes, not filling with cold water, filling slowly, failing to dispense fabric softener, or continuously dripping into the tub. Blue/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, AP6835737. Often paired with the hot water valve (W11688994, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with cold water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with cold water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
F8E1 error code displayed — cold water inlet valve fault
LO FL (low flow) error code — valve unable to deliver normal water flow
Fabric softener not being dispensed — cold water flush to dispenser failing
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow fill
Replaces Part Numbers
This cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630MBK0 series and related
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW, IFW5900HW1 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the cold water inlet valve (typically blue). The matching hot water inlet valve is part number W11688994 (typically red). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Controls the flow of cold water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for cold water and closes the moment the call is dropped
Resolves F8E1 and LO FL error codes when caused by a failed cold inlet valve
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Blue and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — designed for long-term reliability against wash cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, EAP12711564, PD00086086, PS12711564, 4929298, and AP6835737
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the hot water inlet valve (W11688994, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW11688995
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Cold (paired hot valve is W11688994)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Blue / White
Material
Plastic / Metal
Error Codes Resolved
F8E1, LO FL (when caused by cold valve fault)
Often Paired With
Hot Water Inlet Valve (W11688994, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the cold valve is typically blue. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688995 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the cold supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal cold water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the hot water valve (W11688994) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F8E1 and LO FL mean on Whirlpool washers?
Both codes indicate a water fill problem. F8E1 appears when the control board doesn't detect normal water flow during a fill cycle — typically caused by a failed inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, kinked supply hose, or restricted water supply. LO FL (low flow) appears when the washer detects that water is flowing in, but at a rate too low to complete the fill within the expected time window. When the cold water inlet valve has failed or is partially clogged, both codes can appear together. Before replacing the valve, check that the household cold water supply is on and the supply hose isn't kinked, and inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup. If those check out, replacing the W11688995 typically resolves the codes.
My washer isn't dispensing fabric softener — could this be the cold valve?
Yes — this is actually a common symptom that's often misdiagnosed. The cold water inlet valve also feeds the detergent dispenser tray on most Whirlpool front-load washers, including the fabric softener compartment. If the cold valve is clogged or failing to fully open at the right moment in the cycle, water doesn't flow through the fabric softener compartment to flush it into the tub, leaving softener pooled in the tray at the end of the cycle. If you've already cleaned the dispenser tray and water lines and the problem persists, replacing the cold inlet valve (W11688995) often resolves the issue.
Should I replace the hot water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The cold and hot inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching hot water valve is part number W11688994 (red, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — is this the valve?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the hot water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the hot valve is at fault; if it continues, this cold valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688995 will resolve a leaking cold valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688995 cold water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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WH13X26637 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Inlet Valve
The WH13X26637 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement quad water inlet valve assembly compatible with select GE and GE Profile top-load washers in the GTW, GTV, GTN, PTW, and related series. This is a quad (4-solenoid) valve assembly that controls the flow of hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser water, and fabric softener dispenser water from the household supply lines into the washer tub and dispenser compartments. Each solenoid port is independently controlled by the washer's control board. When any port fails, the washer may not fill, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong temperature, overfill, fail to dispense bleach or fabric softener, or drip water between cycles.
As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications, the WH13X26637 is a direct current-production replacement for the earlier WH13X24058. It measures approximately 7"L x 3"W x 3"H with multi-colored ports (blue, green, red, tan, silver, and gold) for easy identification of each solenoid's function. It directly replaces WH13X24058, WH13X26637-25PK, 4546358, AP6282070, EAP12171559, PD00037665, and PS12171559. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The WH13X26637 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes GE top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, won't dispense bleach or fabric softener, overfill, or drip water between cycles. Quad (4-solenoid) valve. Approx. 7"L x 3"W x 3"H. Multi-color port identification. Genuine OEM. Replaces WH13X24058, WH13X26637-25PK, 4546358, AP6282070, EAP12171559, PS12171559. Compatible with GE GTW, GTV, GTN, PTW series top-load washers.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water at all when a cycle is started
Washer filling very slowly — one or more solenoid ports partially blocked or failing
Washer filling with only cold or only hot water — one temperature solenoid has failed
Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open
Bleach not dispensing during the wash cycle
Fabric softener not dispensing at the rinse cycle point
Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve port not sealing completely
Water leaking from the back of the washer near the valve body
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH13X26637, WH13X24058, AGE26282, AP6282070, EAP12171559, PD00037665, PS12171559.
WH13X26637 is the current updated part number superseding WH13X24058. If your washer's parts diagram shows WH13X24058, the WH13X26637 is the correct current replacement. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select GE and GE Profile top-load washers from the following series:
GE washers — GTW680 series (GTW680BPL0DG, GTW680BPL1DG, GTW680BPL2DG, GTW680BSJ0WS, GTW680BSJ1WS, GTW680BSJ3WS, GTW680BSJ4WS, GTW680BSJ5WS, GTW680BSJ6WS and related models)
GE washers — GTW685 series (GTW685BPL0DG, GTW685BPL1DG, GTW685BSL1WS, GTV685BSL0WS and related models)
GE washers — GTW720 series (GTW720BPN0DG, GTW720BSN0WS and related models)
GE washers — GTW725 series (GTW725BPN0DG, GTW725BSN0WS and related models)
GE washers — GTW750 series (GTW750CPL0DG, GTW750CPL1DG, GTW750CSL0DG, GTW750CSL0WS, GTW750CSL1WS and related models)
GE washers — GTW755 series (GTW755CPM0DG, GTW755CSM0WS, GTW755CSM1WS and related models)
GE Profile washers — PTW600, PTW605, PTW700, PTW705 series and related models
GE washers — GTN755 series (GTN755CPM1DG and related models)
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Quad (4-solenoid) valve assembly — independently controls hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser, and fabric softener dispenser ports
Multi-colored ports for easy solenoid identification during installation
Dimensions: approximately 7"L x 3"W x 3"H
Current updated part number — directly supersedes WH13X24058
Compatible with GE GTW680, GTW685, GTW720, GTW725, GTW750, GTW755, PTW600, PTW605, PTW700, PTW705, GTN755 series top-load washers
DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH13X26637
Supersedes
WH13X24058
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (Quad / 4-Solenoid)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
GE and GE Profile Top-Load Washers
Solenoids
4 (hot, cold, bleach, fabric softener)
Dimensions
Approximately 7"L x 3"W x 3"H
Port Colors
Multi-color (blue, green, red, tan, silver, gold)
Material
Plastic / Metal
Compatible Brands
GE, GE Profile
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel and remove it to expose the valve assembly. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose routing — the multi-color ports make this straightforward. Disconnect the two external supply hoses from the hot and cold inlet ports. Disconnect the internal outlet hoses by releasing the retaining clips. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from each solenoid terminal. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the old valve. Install the new WH13X26637 valve in the same position, reconnect all hoses and wire harnesses in the documented positions, and secure the mounting bolts. Reconnect the external supply hoses, restore water supply and power, and run a fill cycle to verify normal filling and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, socket wrench, needle-nose pliers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between WH13X26637 and WH13X24058?
These are the same quad water inlet valve assembly — WH13X26637 is the current updated part number that GE issued to supersede the earlier WH13X24058. If your washer's documentation, parts diagram, or old valve label shows WH13X24058, the WH13X26637 is the correct current replacement to order. Both are quad (4-solenoid) valve assemblies with the same port configuration and function.
What does each solenoid port on this quad valve control?
The WH13X26637 quad valve has four independently operated solenoid ports. The hot water port opens to supply hot water from the household supply line. The cold water port supplies cold water. The bleach dispenser port delivers cold water through the bleach compartment at the appropriate point in the wash cycle. The fabric softener port delivers water through the softener compartment during the rinse cycle. When any single solenoid fails, only the function it controls is affected — the rest of the valve continues to work normally.
My washer won't fill and shows an error code — is it the water inlet valve?
A fill error code on compatible GE models commonly points to the water inlet valve. Before replacing the valve, confirm that both supply valves behind the washer are fully open, neither supply hose is kinked, and the household water pressure is adequate. You can test each solenoid coil with a multimeter — a working coil shows resistance (typically 200–500 ohms); an open circuit confirms that coil has failed and the valve needs replacement. If all coils test good but the washer still won't fill, the issue may be with the control board or water pressure.
My washer fills fine but won't dispense fabric softener — could it be the valve?
Yes — if only the fabric softener dispenser function is affected, the solenoid coil controlling that specific port has likely failed. Since it is part of the same quad valve assembly, replacing the entire WH13X26637 assembly resolves the failed port. Individual solenoid ports cannot be replaced — the complete quad valve assembly must be replaced when any port fails.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same quad water inlet valve assembly installed in compatible GE and GE Profile top-load washers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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W11645245 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Dual Water Valve
The W11645245 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM dual water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built refrigerators. Mounted at the rear of the refrigerator where the household water line connects, this single valve is the central control point for water flow to two separate features: the ice maker and the door-mounted water dispenser. When either feature calls for water, this valve's solenoids open to admit it and close again once the request is satisfied — since one valve handles both jobs, a failure here can affect the ice maker, the dispenser, or both at the same time.
Common causes of failure include mineral and sediment buildup from the household water supply interfering with the valve's internal operation over time, and electrical faults either in the valve itself or in the refrigerator's electronic control board that signals it. A failing dual water valve produces a recognizable set of symptoms: the door dispenser stops delivering water, the ice maker slows down, stops producing ice, or fails intermittently, water leaking around the valve area, or an audible electronic buzzing or humming sound coming from the back of the refrigerator. It directly replaces AP7208917, W11546685, W11446818, W11563296, and PS16875686. As a genuine OEM part, the W11645245 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W11645245 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Refrigerator Dual Water Valve fixes Whirlpool-built refrigerators where the door water dispenser stops working, the ice maker slows down or stops making ice, there's a leak near the valve at the back of the refrigerator, or you hear an electronic buzzing or humming sound. Controls water flow to both the ice maker and water dispenser from a single valve. Replaces AP7208917, W11546685, W11446818, W11563296, PS16875686. Before replacing, rule out a simple mineral clog and a faulty control board signal — both can produce identical symptoms to a failed valve.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Water dispenser on the refrigerator door has stopped working
Ice maker has slowed down, stopped producing ice, or is malfunctioning intermittently
Both the ice maker and water dispenser affected at the same time
Water leaking around the valve area at the back of the refrigerator
Electronic buzzing or humming sound coming from behind the refrigerator
Reduced water flow or pressure at the dispenser
Valve that hums but doesn't appear to be passing water through
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator dual water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11546685, W11446818, W11563296, AP7208917, AWP46513, K-79524K, N-86-QC N, PD00080446, PS16875686
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This dual water valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built refrigerators across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool refrigerators — WRS series (including WRS321SDHZ08)
Maytag, Jenn-Air, and Amana refrigerators (select models)
KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge refrigerators (select models)
Roper refrigerators (select models)
Select Kenmore and Ikea refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform
Note: This is a dual-function valve serving both the ice maker and water dispenser from a single unit — it is not a hot/cold laundry-style valve pair. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration
Dual water inlet valve — controls water flow to both the ice maker and door water dispenser
Resolves "dispenser not working," "ice maker slow or not making ice," "leak near the valve," and "buzzing or humming noise" symptoms caused by valve failure
Single central valve simplifies diagnosis and replacement compared to separate dedicated valves
Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the original rear connection point
Replaces W11546685, W11446818, W11563296, AP7208917, and PS16875686
Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore refrigerators
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Straightforward DIY repair using basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11645245
Part Type
Refrigerator Dual Water Inlet Valve (Ice Maker + Dispenser)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Rear of refrigerator, at the household water line connection
Function
Controls water flow to the ice maker and door water dispenser
Connection Type
1/2" water line inlet, NPT threaded
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Disconnect power at the outlet, and shut off the water supply valve behind or below the refrigerator before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall for access, then locate the valve at the rear or bottom of the cabinet where the water supply line connects. Have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out when you disconnect the line. Photograph the wiring and water line connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the water supply line from the old valve, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding it in place, then pull the valve free. Install the new W11645245 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Restore the water supply and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Push the refrigerator back into place, then test both the ice maker and water dispenser over the next day to confirm normal operation has returned. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench or pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dispenser stopped working but the ice maker still works. Is this the right part?
It's possible, but worth checking a couple of things first, since this valve serves both features from one unit. Confirm the water supply line isn't kinked or restricted, and check the inline water filter for a clog, since a blocked filter can starve the dispenser specifically while the ice maker (which may draw from a different point in the flow path depending on your model) keeps working. If the filter and supply line are clear and the dispenser still won't deliver water, the valve itself is the likely cause.
I hear a buzzing or humming sound from the back of the fridge. What does that mean?
This is a common symptom of a valve that's receiving an electrical signal to open but isn't passing water through correctly — the solenoid coil energizes and hums, but water flow is restricted or absent, often due to internal mineral buildup or a failing internal mechanism. If you hear this sound whenever the ice maker or dispenser is called on, the valve is a strong suspect.
Could the problem actually be my water filter instead of this valve?
Yes, it's worth ruling out first. A clogged inline water filter can produce very similar symptoms to a failing valve — reduced dispenser flow, slow ice production, or both. Try replacing the water filter first if it's been a while since the last change; if symptoms persist afterward, the dual water valve is the more likely cause.
Could this be a control board issue instead of the valve?
It's possible. This valve is triggered electrically by the refrigerator's control board, so a fault there can produce symptoms that look identical to a failed valve — no water reaching the ice maker or dispenser even though the valve itself is fine. If replacing the valve doesn't resolve the issue, the control board is the next component worth investigating.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same dual-function solenoid design and connection configuration as the valve originally installed in your refrigerator.
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XPARTCO 5304509706 Gas Oven Igniter
Product Overview
The XPARTCO 5304509706 Gas Oven Igniter is designed to ignite the gas burner and ensure consistent oven heating performance. This Oven Igniter is a replacement part for select Frigidaire, Kenmore, GE gas oven models, designed to ignite the gas in the oven burner to start the heating process. This part is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the gas, providing the heat needed to cook and bake food. Over time, the oven igniter can wear out or become damaged, which can prevent the oven from heating.
Quick Answer
If your gas oven is not heating, takes too long to preheat, or the burner does not ignite, the 5304509706 igniter may be weak or faulty. Replacing this igniter restores proper ignition and consistent oven performance.
Replaces Part Numbers
Replaces OEM part number: 5304509706, 316489402, 316489408, 316119301, 4545981, 012505482182, EAP12071409, AFR18015, PD00035904, AP6230715, PS12071409, WB2X10016, WB02X10016, 1704, EAP241804, AGE826644, PD00042950, AH241804, EA241804, AP2009619, PS241804.
Compatibility
This gas oven igniter is compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and other compatible gas ranges and ovens.
Frigidaire Gas Ranges
Electrolux Ovens
GE Gas Ranges
Kenmore Gas Ovens
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven not heating
Slow or delayed ignition
Burner not lighting
Gas smell due to ignition failure
Key Features
Designed for gas oven ignition
Provides fast and reliable burner ignition
High-quality aftermarket replacement
Durable construction for long-lasting performance
Product Specifications
Part Number: XP5304509706
Part Type: Gas Oven Igniter
Brand: XPARTCO
Condition: New
OEM / Aftermarket: Aftermarket
Application: Gas Ovens & Ranges
Troubleshooting Guide
Oven not igniting → Faulty igniter
Long preheat time → Weak igniter
No flame despite gas flow → Igniter failure
When Should You Replace This Igniter?
Replace this igniter if your oven fails to heat, takes too long to preheat, or does not ignite the gas burner properly.
Installation Notes
⚠️ Disconnect power and shut off gas before installation. Remove mounting screws, disconnect wiring, and install the new igniter carefully. Avoid touching the igniter surface with bare hands.
Related Parts
Gas Oven Safety Valve
Oven Temperature Sensor
Control Board
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this igniter fit my oven?This igniter fits many Frigidaire and compatible gas ovens. Always verify your model number.
What does an oven igniter do?It ignites the gas burner and allows the oven to heat properly.
What are signs of a bad igniter?Oven not heating, delayed ignition, or no flame during operation.
Is this OEM or aftermarket?This is a high-quality aftermarket replacement part.
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WH23X29538 (OE) Washer Water Valve
The WH23X29538 is an OE (Original Equipment) water inlet valve for GE front-load washers. This valve regulates the flow of water into the wash tub from the household supply line, with two water inlets (each with its own filter), four solenoid coils, and five water outlets working together to precisely control flow, temperature blending, and fill level throughout the cycle.
Rated 120V, 60Hz. Built with a stainless steel-reinforced, high-quality ABS plastic body for corrosion resistance and long-term sealing. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve body and general electrical wear in the solenoid coils. A failing valve produces a range of symptoms: leaking or overflowing water, slow or irregular water filling, the washer filling non-stop or not filling at all, incorrect water temperature, or unusual noise during the fill cycle. It directly replaces WH23X29538, C-163/21-A13, 33090201, PD00071094, EAP16217225, AP6990115, AGE26158, PS16217225.
Quick Answer
The WH23X29538 (OE) Washer Water Valve fixes GE front-load washers with water leaking or overflowing, slow or irregular filling, non-stop filling, no water filling at all, incorrect water temperature, or unusual fill-cycle noise. 120V, 60Hz, 2 inlets with filters, 4 solenoid coils, 5 outlets. Replaces WH23X29538, C-163/21-A13, 33090201, PD00071094, EAP16217225, AP6990115, AGE26158, PS16217225. This valve is specific to the GFW550 series — it is a separate part from our WH23X29553 listing, which fits the GFW650/850 and PFW870/950 series.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Water leaking or overflowing from the valve area
Slow or irregular water filling
Washer filling non-stop and not shutting off
Washer not filling with water at all
Incorrect water temperature during fill
Unusual noise during the water fill cycle
Error code related to water fill or temperature
What Is an OE Part?
OE (Original Equipment) means this part is manufactured by the same original supplier that produces the Genuine OEM version — identical fit, materials, and performance. The only difference is packaging: OE parts ship under our XPARTCO brand rather than the appliance manufacturer's branded box, which is why they can't be listed as Genuine OEM. You get factory-original quality at a more affordable price.
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH23X29538, C-163/21-A13, 33090201, PD00071094, EAP16217225, AP6990115, AGE26158, PS16217225
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select GE front-load washers, including model numbers such as:
GFW550SPN0DG, GFW550SPN1DG, GFW550SPN2DG, GFW550SPN3DG
GFW550SPR0RS, GFW550SPR3RS, GFW550SPR4RS, GFW550SPR5RS
GFW550SSN0WW, GFW550SSN1WW, GFW550SSN2WW, GFW550SSN3WW, GFW550SSN4WW, GFW550SSN5WW
Note — not the same as WH23X29553: This valve is specific to the GFW550 series. It is a separate part from our WH23X29553 listing, which fits the GFW650/850 and PFW870/950 series and has a completely different cross-reference set. The two are easy to confuse given the similar numbering — always confirm your exact part number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
OE (Original Equipment) water inlet valve — manufactured by the same supplier as the Genuine OEM version
Two water inlets with filters, four solenoid coils, five water outlets for precise fill control
Resolves "leaking/overflowing," "slow or irregular fill," "non-stop filling," "won't fill," and "wrong temperature" symptoms
ABS plastic body with stainless steel reinforcement for corrosion resistance
Rated 120V, 60Hz
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces WH23X29538, C-163/21-A13, 33090201, PD00071094, EAP16217225, AP6990115, AGE26158, PS16217225
Compatible with GE front-load washers in the GFW550 series
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH23X29538-OE
Designation
OE (Original Equipment)
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve
Brand
GE
Application
Front-Load Washers (GFW550 Series)
Voltage
120V
Frequency
60 Hz
Inlets
2, each with a filter
Outlets
5
Solenoid Coils
4
Body Material
ABS plastic with stainless steel reinforcement
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brand
GE
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access to this valve is typically behind the front control panel or top of the cabinet, depending on your model. Have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out when you disconnect the lines. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything — this valve has multiple inlets and outlets, and reconnecting one in the wrong position can cause a fill or temperature issue. Disconnect the water supply lines from the old valve, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding it in place, then pull the valve free. Install the new WH23X29538 in the same position, reconnect all outlet hoses to their original positions exactly as photographed, reconnect the electrical connector, and secure the mounting screws. Reattach the hot and cold supply lines, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Restore the water supply and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings to confirm correct fill behavior and water temperature. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't stop filling. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing valve. A worn internal seal on one of the four solenoid coils can fail to close fully, letting water continue flowing even after the correct fill level is reached. Since this could lead to overflow, it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if you notice this happening rather than waiting to address it.
My water temperature seems off during the wash. Could this valve be the cause?
Yes. Because this valve has two separate inlets (hot and cold) and multiple solenoid coils that blend water to reach the correct temperature for each cycle setting, a fault in one of those coils can throw off the temperature blend even while the washer otherwise fills normally. This is a documented symptom this valve resolves.
Is this the same as WH23X29553? The numbers are very close.
No, these are two separate GE valve part numbers with completely different cross-reference sets and different compatible model series — this WH23X29538 serves the GFW550 series, while WH23X29553 serves the GFW650/850 and PFW870/950 series. Always confirm the exact part number from your washer's parts diagram rather than assuming based on a close number match.
Is this a genuine OEM part?
This is an OE (Original Equipment) part sold under our XPARTCO brand. OE parts are manufactured by the same original supplier that produces the Genuine OEM part, so the fit, materials, and performance are identical — the difference is that OE parts ship in XPARTCO packaging rather than the appliance manufacturer's branded box, which is why we can't list them as Genuine OEM. This gives you factory-original quality at a more affordable price than the branded version.
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XPARTCO AJU75152602 Washer Water Inlet Valve
The XPARTCO AJU75152602 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve assembly compatible with select LG and Kenmore top-load washers in the larger-capacity WT7 series — including the WT7060, WT7100, WT7150, WT7155, WT7250, WT7300, WT7305, WT7400, WT7405, WT7800, WT7880, and WT7900 series. The water inlet valve is a multi-port solenoid valve mounted on the back of the washer that controls the flow of hot and cold water into the tub and dispenser compartments during fill and rinse cycles. When any valve port fails, the washer may not fill at all, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong water temperature, overfill, or leak from the valve body.
This valve assembly directly replaces 5221EA1008S, 4873914, AP6335382, EAP12580369, PS12580369, and PD00060681. It includes two integrated inlet screens to filter debris from the supply lines. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools. Note: the AJU75152602 is for the WT7xxx larger-capacity LG top-load series — it is not the same valve as the AJU75152601, which is used on the earlier and smaller-capacity WT1xxx through WT5xxx series. Verify your model number before ordering.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO AJU75152602 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes LG WT7xxx-series top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, overfill, or leak from the valve. Includes 2 inlet screens. Replaces 5221EA1008S, 4873914, AP6335382, EAP12580369, PS12580369, PD00060681. Compatible with LG WT7060, WT7100, WT7150, WT7300, WT7305, WT7400, WT7405, WT7800, WT7880, WT7900 series and Kenmore (LG-built). Note: not the same as AJU75152601 — different model series.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water at all when a cycle is started
Washer filling very slowly — taking much longer than normal to reach water level
Washer filling with only cold water on a warm or hot cycle — hot solenoid failed
Washer filling with only hot water on a cold cycle — cold solenoid failed
Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open
Water temperature incorrect despite correct cycle selection
Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve not sealing completely
Water leaking from the back of the washer near the valve body
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
AJU75152602, 4873914, 5221EA1008S, U8EONG(9F), IV-248-103, PD00060681, FIX12580369, ALG53788, AP6335382, PS12580369, DC12V 6W, IV-248-103, U8EONG(9F).
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select LG WT7 series top-load washers and related Kenmore models:
LG WT7060CV, WT7060CW
LG WT7100CW
LG WT7150CW, WT7155CW
LG WT7250CW
LG WT7300CV, WT7300CW
LG WT7305CV, WT7305CW
LG WT7400CV, WT7400CW
LG WT7405CV, WT7405CW
LG WT7800CV, WT7800CW
LG WT7880HWA
LG WT7900HBA
Kenmore 31452 and select LG-built Kenmore models
Important — AJU75152602 vs AJU75152601: These are two different valves for different LG washer generations. The AJU75152602 is for the larger-capacity WT7xxx series. The AJU75152601 is for the earlier and smaller-capacity WT1xxx through WT5xxx series. They are not interchangeable. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Multi-port solenoid valve — controls hot water, cold water, and dispenser ports to deliver the correct water temperature and volume for each cycle phase
Includes two integrated inlet screens — filter debris and mineral deposits from the supply lines before they reach the valve seat
ABS plastic and stainless steel construction — durable and resistant to mineral buildup and corrosion
Replaces 5221EA1008S, 4873914, AP6335382, EAP12580369, PS12580369, and PD00060681
Compatible with LG WT7060, WT7100, WT7150, WT7300, WT7305, WT7400, WT7405, WT7800, WT7880, WT7900 series and Kenmore LG-built models
For WT7xxx series only — not the same as AJU75152601 (WT1xxx–WT5xxx series)
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
AJU75152602
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (Multi-Port)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
LG WT7xxx Series Top-Load Washers
Material
ABS plastic / Stainless steel
Kit Includes
Valve assembly + 2 integrated inlet screens
Note
WT7xxx series only — not interchangeable with AJU75152601 (WT1xxx–WT5xxx)
Compatible Brands
LG, Kenmore (LG-built)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve is mounted on the upper rear of the washer. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose positions before disconnecting. Disconnect the two external supply hoses from the valve inlet ports. Disconnect the internal outlet hoses by squeezing the retaining clips and pulling free. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from each solenoid port. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the old valve. Install the new AJU75152602 valve in the same position, reconnect all internal hoses, wire harnesses, and external supply hoses in the documented positions. Restore water supply and power, then run a fill cycle to verify normal filling and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between AJU75152602 and AJU75152601?
These are two different water inlet valve assemblies for different generations of LG top-load washers. The AJU75152601 (which also replaces AJU73213301 and 5221EA1008F) is used on LG's earlier and smaller-capacity top-load washers in the WT1xxx, WT4xxx, and WT5xxx series. The AJU75152602 (which replaces 5221EA1008S) is for LG's larger-capacity WT7xxx series. Despite appearing similar, they have different port configurations and are not interchangeable. Always verify your specific model number before ordering.
How do I know if the water inlet valve has failed?
Common signs are the washer not filling, filling only on one temperature setting, overfilling, dripping between cycles, or leaking from the valve area. Before replacing the valve, check that both supply valves are fully open and the hoses are not kinked. You can test each solenoid coil with a multimeter — a working coil shows resistance (typically 200–500 ohms); an open circuit confirms that coil has failed. Also inspect and clean the inlet screens inside the supply port openings — mineral-clogged screens can restrict flow enough to cause the same symptoms as a failed valve.
What are the two inlet screens included with the valve?
The two mesh screens that come with the AJU75152602 install inside the hot and cold water inlet ports of the valve. They catch sediment, mineral particles, and debris from the household water supply before they can reach the solenoid valve seats. Installing fresh screens along with the new valve helps extend the valve's service life, especially in areas with hard water. If the previous valve failed due to mineral buildup rather than an electrical fault, cleaning the supply hoses before installation is also recommended.
My LG WT7300CW is only filling with cold water — is this the valve?
Filling with only cold water on a warm or hot cycle is a classic sign that the hot water solenoid coil on the inlet valve has failed. Each temperature port is controlled by its own independent solenoid — when the hot solenoid fails, only the cold port opens. Before replacing the valve, also confirm that the household hot water supply valve is fully open and that hot water is reaching the back of the washer in the supply hose. If hot water supply is confirmed and the cold-only fill persists, replace the AJU75152602 valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from ABS plastic and stainless steel to match the port configuration and specifications of the original AJU75152602 water inlet valve assembly.
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W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold)
The W11688995 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers. Whirlpool's newer front-load platforms use two separate single-function valves instead of one combined hot/cold valve body — this cold-side valve handles only the cold water supply, while a matching hot-side valve (sold separately as W11688994) handles the hot side. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes this valve's solenoid coils to open the water path; when the correct level is reached, the valve closes again. If this valve fails to open, the washer won't take on cold water; if it fails to seal fully closed, water can trickle into the drum even when the washer isn't running.
Because this is a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here shows up in a very specific way: cold-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while hot-only fills (governed by the separate W11688994 valve) continue working normally. Whirlpool's own service guidance links this valve to F8 E1 and LO FL fill-related error codes. Common failure modes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn internal diaphragm. It directly replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730. As a genuine OEM part, the W11688995 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or throws an F8 E1 or LO FL error code. 120V, 50/60Hz, two-coil cold-only valve, 1/2" NPT threaded connections. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, EAP17216730. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11688994.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally
Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to
Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for
Water trickling or leaking into the drum on the cold side when the washer is off
F8 E1 or LO FL error code displayed on the control panel
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cold-wash or cold-rinse cycles specifically affected while warm/hot cycles run fine
Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730.
W11486361 and W11316256 were earlier Whirlpool numbers for this same valve, with W11036930 preceding those. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW and MFW series (select Whirlpool-built models)
Amana front-load washers (select models)
Inglis front-load washers — IFW series (select models)
Select Kenmore front-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform
Verified model numbers include: 8TWFC6810LW0 (laundry center), IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4, MFW7020RF0, MFW7020RU0, MFW7020RW0, MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HC1, MHW5630HC2, MHW5630HC3, MHW5630HW0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630HW2, MHW5630MBK0, MHW6630HC0 through MHW6630HC3, MHW6630HW0 through MHW6630HW3, MHW6630MBK0, MHW8630HC0 through MHW8630HC3, MHW8630HW0 through MHW8630HW3, WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW5620HW0 through WFW5620HW3, WFW6620HC0 through WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1, WFW8620HC0 through WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0 through WFW8620HW4, WFW862CHC0, and WFW862CHC1.
Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11688994. The two are not interchangeable — each is a dedicated single-function valve, and installing this cold valve in place of the hot valve (or vice versa) will not correctly control water temperature. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
Dedicated cold-only water inlet valve — two internal coils control flow to the cold supply
Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure
Commonly resolves F8 E1 and LO FL error codes
1/2" NPT threaded connections for standard supply line hookups
Direct drop-in replacement for W11036930, W11316256, and W11486361
Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, and select Kenmore front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11688995
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Voltage
120V
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Coils
2 (dedicated cold water function)
Connection
1/2 in. NPT threaded
Companion Part
W11688994 (hot water valve, sold separately)
Supersedes
W11036930, W11316256, W11486361
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, select Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply line from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit side by side and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old cold valve, remove its mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the hot valve (W11688994) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11688995 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the cold water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle set to a cold wash and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part?
Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Because your washer uses two separate single-function valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve (W11688994) keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing, this cold valve is the correct part to replace.
Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time?
Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11688995 valve alone is sufficient. If both hot and cold fills are having problems, or if the valves are original and quite old, some people choose to replace both at once since they're already accessing the same area — but it's not required.
My washer shows an F8 E1 or LO FL error. Does that mean this valve is bad?
It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. These codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm the cold supply valve at the wall is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris, and make sure the cold fill hose isn't kinked. If those check out and cold water still won't fill properly, this valve is the likely cause.
Can I use this valve on the hot water side instead?
No. This is a dedicated cold-water valve, and the hot-water side uses a separate part number, W11688994. The two are built and calibrated for their specific supply line and are not interchangeable — installing the cold valve on the hot side (or vice versa) will not properly control water temperature during the cycle.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same two-coil solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the cold water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
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XPARTCO 8573713 Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Replaces WP8573713
The XPARTCO 8573713 is an aftermarket replacement thermal cut-off fuse for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers. This fuse is mounted on top of the burner funnel, directly under the drum, and it's a one-time safety device: as long as the dryer stays within its normal operating temperature, it does nothing at all, but the instant temperatures near the burner climb high enough — almost always from restricted airflow — the fuse permanently opens the circuit and cuts power. That's why a blown fuse produces such a specific symptom: the dryer won't heat, even though the drum may still tumble and the rest of the dryer seems to run normally.
Because this fuse sits on the burner funnel underneath the drum rather than on the more accessible blower housing, replacing it is a more involved repair than a typical thermal fuse swap — the drum has to come out of the cabinet to reach it. Unlike a resettable thermostat, this fuse cannot be reset once it blows; it must be replaced. A blown thermal fuse is almost always a symptom rather than a random failure: restricted exhaust venting is the leading cause, since trapped heat near the burner is exactly what this fuse is designed to react to. It directly replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, and PS11746693.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 8573713 Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers that won't heat, even if the drum still tumbles normally. Mounted on the burner funnel under the drum. Replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, PS11746693. Always inspect and clean the dryer venting when replacing this fuse — a blown fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and installing a new fuse without fixing the vent will likely blow it again.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer runs and tumbles but produces no heat
Dryer that stopped heating suddenly, especially after running unusually hot
Drying times that have gotten noticeably longer or clothes coming out damp
Repeated blown fuses on a dryer with a known venting or airflow restriction
Dryer that recently smelled like burning or overheating before losing heat
Continuity test shows an open circuit across the old fuse
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This gas dryer thermal cut-off fuse directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP8573713, 1180872, 8573713, AP3866211, EAP990558, PS990558, AWP49233, PD00006618
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This thermal cut-off fuse is compatible with select Whirlpool gas dryers, and also fits select Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, and Sears Canada gas dryers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WGD8500SR0, and Kenmore 11070372710 and 11071112020.
Note: This fuse is specific to gas dryers, mounted on the burner funnel. It is not the same fuse used on electric dryer platforms. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement thermal cut-off fuse — one-time safety device that cuts power if the dryer overheats
Mounted on top of the burner funnel, directly under the drum
Resolves "runs but won't heat," "drying takes too long," and "clothes coming out damp" symptoms caused by a blown fuse
Replaces WP8573713, AP6013467, and PS11746693
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, and Sears Canada gas dryers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
8573713
OEM Part Number
WP8573713
Part Type
Gas Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Gas Dryers
Location
Top of the burner funnel, under the drum
Resettable
No — one-time use, must be replaced once blown
Material
Plastic housing
Dimensions
Approx. 1"H x 1"W
Repair Difficulty
Moderate to Hard — drum removal required for access
Quantity
1 thermal cut-off fuse
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Kenmore Elite, Crosley, Amana, Inglis, Sears Canada
Installation Notes
⚠️ Gas Safety — Shut Off The Gas Supply Before Starting This fuse sits directly on the burner funnel, close to the gas burner assembly. Before beginning, close the gas shutoff valve behind the dryer in addition to unplugging the dryer or shutting off its circuit breaker. If at any point you smell gas, stop immediately, leave the area, and do not operate any switches — contact your gas utility or a qualified technician. Do not attempt this repair if you are not comfortable working safely around a gas appliance's burner assembly; a qualified technician can complete it instead.
⚠️ Drum Removal Required — Inspect And Clean The Venting Before Reassembling Wear work gloves. This repair requires removing the drum from the dryer cabinet to access the burner funnel, so budget more time and disassembly than a typical thermal fuse swap. Remove the top and front panels according to your model's service diagram, disconnect the drive belt from the idler pulley, and lift the drum out of the cabinet to expose the burner funnel underneath. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the old fuse's connectors. Test the old fuse for continuity with a multimeter to confirm it's actually blown (no continuity) rather than assuming, and test the new fuse to confirm it's good out of the box. This is the most important step: fully inspect and clean the dryer's exhaust vent, from the lint trap housing all the way to the exterior vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed sections, or excessive length. A blown thermal fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and skipping this step means the new fuse is likely to blow again. Install the new 8573713 fuse on the burner funnel in the same mounting position, reconnect the wiring, and reassemble the drum, belt, and panels in reverse order. Restore the gas supply and power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal heating and shutoff behavior. Tools needed: Phillips or nut driver (model-dependent), multimeter, vent brush or vacuum attachment for cleaning ductwork, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer tumbles fine but there's no heat. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the classic symptom of a blown gas dryer thermal cut-off fuse. Because this fuse only interrupts the heating circuit and not the drive motor, the drum can continue tumbling completely normally while the dryer produces no heat at all. If you've confirmed the burner isn't igniting and the fuse tests as an open circuit, this is very likely the fix.
Why does this repair require removing the drum? My other dryer's fuse didn't need that.
This particular fuse is mounted on the burner funnel underneath the drum rather than on the blower housing at the back of the cabinet, which is where many thermal fuses on other platforms are located. Reaching the burner funnel requires taking the drum out of the cabinet, which is why this repair involves more disassembly than some other thermal fuse replacements.
I replaced the fuse and it blew again. What's going on?
This is a strong sign that the underlying cause — almost always restricted airflow — was never addressed. Thermal fuses don't fail from age; they blow because the dryer overheated. If a new fuse keeps blowing, thoroughly inspect and clean the entire exhaust path from the lint trap housing to the outside vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed or kinked ductwork, or a vent run that's too long.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and mounting configuration of the original WP8573713 thermal cut-off fuse used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley, Amana, and Inglis gas dryers.
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242252702 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve
The 242252702 is a genuine Frigidaire OEM triple-solenoid water inlet valve assembly for Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, and White-Westinghouse side-by-side refrigerators. This valve is the central control point where your home's water supply connects to the refrigerator, and it manages water flow to both the ice maker and the door-mounted water dispenser through three separate solenoids housed in one assembly, each opening independently depending on what's being called for.
Rated 120V, 50/60Hz per solenoid (20W maroon, 20W yellow, 35W green — each solenoid's wire is color-coded), this valve has 4 outlets total: one 1/4" tube inlet, three 5/16" tube outlets, and one 1/4" tube outlet. It measures approximately 7-1/8"L x 3-3/4"W x 3-1/4"H and ships as a complete assembly with mounting bracket and installation instructions. This valve directly replaces the older 241734302 design and uses updated quick-connect fittings in place of the older screw-on style. A failing valve typically shows up as the ice maker or dispenser not working, slow water flow, or — notably — an overflowing ice maker caused by the valve not shutting off completely if household water pressure is too low. It directly replaces 240321801, 240505101, 240505102, 240508101, 240508102, 240531101, 241734301, 241734302, 7241734301, WV2702, 2692163, AP5671757, EAP7784018, PD00000153, PS7784018, and K-76150.
Quick Answer
The 242252702 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve fixes Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, and White-Westinghouse side-by-side refrigerators where the ice maker or water dispenser isn't working, water flow is slow, or the ice maker is overflowing. Triple-solenoid, 4-outlet valve assembly with bracket. Replaces 240321801, 240505101, 240505102, 240508101, 240508102, 240531101, 241734301, 241734302, 7241734301, WV2702, 2692163, AP5671757, EAP7784018, PD00000153, PS7784018, K-76150. This valve needs at least 20 psi of household water pressure to shut off completely — if pressure is too low, the valve can leak and cause the ice maker to overflow even when the valve itself is functioning correctly.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Ice maker has stopped making ice, or is producing less ice than usual
Water dispenser on the refrigerator door isn't working or has slowed down
Ice maker overflowing or leaking
Slow water flow at the dispenser
Water leaking near the valve at the back of the refrigerator
Error code related to the water system displayed on some models
Cracked or physically damaged valve housing
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
242252702, 240321801, 240505101, 240505102, 240508101, 240508102, 240531101, 241734301, 241734302, 2692163, 7241734301, PD00000153, EAP7784018, AP5671757, AFR15932, PS7784018
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select Frigidaire side-by-side refrigerators, and also fits select Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, and White-Westinghouse refrigerators built on the same platform, including model numbers such as:
BFHS2611LM, BFHS2611LM0
BGHS2634KE0, BGHS2634KE1, BGHS2634KP0, BGHS2634KP1, BGHS2644KF0, BGHS2644KF1
FFSS2615TS0, FFSS2615TE4, FFHS2611PFEA, FFHB2750TD5, FRSS26L3AF0
FRS26H5ASB4, FRS26H5ASB5, FRS26H5ASB8, FRS26H5ASBA, FRS26R2AW6, FRS26R4AW5, FRS26R4CB1, FRS26RLECS0, FRS26LF7DS7
FRS6LR5EB3, FRS6LR5EB6, FRS6LR5EM2, FRS6LR5EM8, FRS6R5ESB4
PLHS69EESS2, PLHS69EGSS1, PLHS269ZCB4, PHSC39EGSS0
Crosley CRSE234FB2
Note: This valve's fitting style has been updated to quick-connect fittings, replacing the older screw-on style used on some earlier units — this may cause the appearance to differ slightly from your original part, but it is a correct functional replacement. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Frigidaire OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration
Triple-solenoid assembly supplies water to both the ice maker and door water dispenser
Resolves "ice maker not working," "dispenser not working," "slow water flow," and "ice maker overflowing" symptoms
Color-coded solenoid wiring (maroon, yellow, green) for straightforward reconnection
4 outlets: 1x 1/4" tube inlet, 3x 5/16" tube outlets, 1x 1/4" tube outlet
Updated quick-connect fittings for easier installation than older screw-on designs
Ships complete with mounting bracket and installation instructions
Replaces the full cross-reference list above, including the older 241734302 design
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
242252702
Part Type
Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve (Triple Solenoid)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Frigidaire
Application
Side-by-Side Refrigerators
Voltage
120V per solenoid
Frequency
50/60 Hz per solenoid
Wattage
20W (maroon), 20W (yellow), 35W (green)
Outlets
1x 1/4" tube inlet, 3x 5/16" tube outlets, 1x 1/4" tube outlet
Dimensions
7-1/8"L x 3-3/4"W x 3-1/4"H
Weight
Approx. 1.08 lbs.
Minimum Water Pressure
20 psi (required to shut off fully)
Kit Contents
Valve assembly, mounting bracket, installation instructions
Color
Gray / Blue / Green / Yellow / Maroon
Material
Plastic / Metal
Quantity
1 valve assembly
Compatible Brands
Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Crosley, White-Westinghouse
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall for access, then locate the valve at the rear of the cabinet. Remove the two hex screws securing the old valve. Before disconnecting anything, note or photograph which plastic tube connects to which port on the multi-port valve assembly — with three solenoids and multiple outlets, getting a hose on the wrong port will send water to the wrong place. Disconnect the water supply hose, the electrical connectors (which are color-coded to their matching solenoids on the new valve), and the outlet hoses, then remove the old valve. Install the new 242252702 in the same position with its included mounting bracket, secure it with the hex screws, and reconnect each outlet hose to its correct port exactly as noted. Reconnect the color-coded electrical connectors to their matching solenoid wires. Reattach the water supply hose, tightening securely. While the back of the refrigerator is accessible, it's also a good opportunity to clean the condenser coils and surrounding area. Restore the water supply and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Push the refrigerator back into place, then test both the ice maker and water dispenser over the following day. Tools needed: hex screwdriver or nut driver, pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My ice maker is overflowing. Is this the valve?
Possibly, but check your household water pressure first. This valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off fully — if your home's water pressure is below that, the valve may not close completely even though it's functioning correctly, letting water leak through and overflow the ice maker. If your water pressure tests below 20 psi, that's the underlying cause rather than a defective valve, and addressing the pressure issue (or installing a pressure-boosting solution) is the correct fix.
The new valve looks different from my old one. Is that normal?
Yes. This valve has been updated to use quick-connect fittings in place of the older screw-on style used on earlier units, so the connection points may look different from what you're used to. It's still a correct, direct functional replacement — the new fittings just make installation somewhat easier.
How do I know which hose goes where? This valve has multiple outlets.
Note or photograph the hose routing on your old valve before disconnecting anything — with three solenoids and four total outlets, it's easy to reverse a connection if you're not careful. The electrical connectors are color-coded (maroon, yellow, green) to help you match them to the correct solenoid on the new valve, which makes the wiring side more foolproof than the hose routing.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Frigidaire to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original triple-solenoid design, wattage per solenoid, and outlet configuration of the water valve originally installed in your refrigerator.
Shop With Confidence
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XPARTCO W11176454 Gas Range Oven Igniter
The XPARTCO W11176454 is an aftermarket replacement oven burner igniter compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana gas ranges. The igniter is a hot surface igniter made from silicon carbide that draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it, then heats to ignition temperature to light the gas burner. When the igniter weakens or fails, the oven will not heat, will take too long to preheat, or the igniter will glow without lighting the burner.
This igniter draws 3.3–3.6 amps at 120V AC and reaches operating temperatures of 1,800°F–3,100°F with a heating time of approximately 17 seconds. The igniter body measures 3-7/10 inches (Length A) with 9-1/2 inch leads and two separate connectors. It directly replaces OEM part numbers W11176454 and W10914411, and is compatible with Whirlpool WFG and WFG505 series, Amana AGR and AGG series, and select Maytag gas range models. Installs in 10–20 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11176454 Gas Range Oven Igniter fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana gas ovens that won't heat, take too long to preheat, or have an igniter that glows but never lights the burner. Silicon carbide construction. Draws 3.3–3.6A at 120V. Igniter body 3-7/10" with 9-1/2" leads and 2 separate connectors. Replaces W10914411.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Oven not heating at all — gas is not igniting
Oven takes excessively long to preheat (weak igniter not reaching ignition temperature)
Igniter glows orange or red but never lights the gas burner
Smell of gas when oven is turned on but burner does not light
Oven heats inconsistently or shuts off mid-cycle
Clicking sounds from the oven without successful ignition
Oven element will not heat despite other components functioning normally
Replaces Part Numbers
This oven igniter directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11176454, 4547416, W10914411, EAP12348439, AWP43029, PD00044759, AP6327293, PS12348439.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This igniter is compatible with select gas ranges from the following brands:
Whirlpool gas ranges — WFG320 and WFG505 series (freestanding)
Amana gas ranges — AGR and AGG series
Maytag gas ranges — select AGR series models
Always verify your model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Hot surface igniter — draws current through the oven safety valve to open it, then ignites the gas burner
Silicon carbide construction — superior heat resistance vs. standard ceramic igniters
Draws 3.3–3.6 amps at 120V AC — correct range to open the Whirlpool gas safety valve
Operating temperature: 1,800°F – 3,100°F with approximately 17-second heat-up time
Igniter body length: 3-7/10 inches; lead length: 9-1/2 inches
Two separate connectors for easy plug-in installation
Directly replaces W11176454 and W10914411 — no modification required
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–20 minutes with a screwdriver
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11176454
Also Replaces
W10914411
Part Type
Oven Burner Igniter (Hot Surface Igniter)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Gas Ranges and Ovens
Material
Silicon Carbide
Amperage Draw
3.3 – 3.6 Amps
Voltage
120V AC
Resistance
40 – 800 Ohms
Operating Temperature
1,800°F – 3,100°F
Heat-Up Time
Approximately 17 seconds
Igniter Body Length (A)
3-7/10 inches
Lead Length
9-1/2 inches
Connectors
2 separate connectors
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag
Installation Notes
⚠️ Gas Appliance Safety Warning This part is used in gas ranges. Working with gas appliances carries risk of gas leaks, fire, and explosion if installed incorrectly. Always shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve and unplug the range before beginning any repair. If you smell gas at any point during or after installation, leave the area immediately and contact your gas utility provider. If you are not confident working on gas appliances, have this part installed by a qualified appliance technician.
⚠️ Installation Instructions Unplug the range and shut off the gas supply before beginning. Open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Lift and remove the oven bottom panel by unscrewing the retaining screws. Remove the heat shield (if present) to expose the burner and igniter assembly. Unscrew the igniter mounting screws — typically one or two — and carefully disconnect the wire connector. Connect the new W11176454 igniter to the wire harness using the two separate connectors, secure it to the burner bracket with the mounting screws, then reinstall the heat shield and oven bottom panel. Restore gas supply and power and run a test cycle to confirm the oven lights correctly. Important: Do not touch the silicon carbide igniter element with bare hands — oils from skin reduce its lifespan. Handle only by the bracket and leads. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between W11176454 and W10914411?
The W11176454 is the updated part number that directly supersedes the older W10914411. Both are the same hot surface igniter for compatible Whirlpool, Amana, and Maytag gas ranges. This aftermarket replacement is compatible with both part numbers.
How do I know if my oven igniter needs to be replaced?
The most common signs are the oven not heating at all, taking much longer than usual to preheat, or the igniter glowing orange but never lighting the burner. A working igniter reaches ignition temperature within about 30–90 seconds and glows bright orange. If it glows dimly or stays on indefinitely without the burner lighting, the igniter has weakened and is no longer drawing enough current to open the gas safety valve.
Why does my igniter glow but the oven still won't heat?
This is the classic symptom of a weak igniter. The gas safety valve requires a minimum amperage draw — typically around 3.2 amps — to open and allow gas to flow to the burner. As the igniter ages, its resistance increases and amperage drops below this threshold. The igniter still glows because it has some current, but not enough to open the valve. Replacing the igniter resolves this in nearly all cases.
Is the W11176454 compatible with my Amana or Maytag range?
Yes — the W11176454 is compatible with select Amana AGR and AGG series gas ranges and select Maytag AGR series models in addition to Whirlpool WFG320 and WFG505 series ranges. Always verify your specific model number before ordering to confirm compatibility.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is made from silicon carbide to match the electrical specifications and performance of the original W11176454 igniter.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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Choice WR57X10098 Refrigerator Water Valve
The Choice WR57X10098 is a Choice-brand replacement dual water inlet valve for GE refrigerators, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café models. Located in the left door on many GE refrigerator platforms, this single valve supplies water to both the ice maker and the door water dispenser. When either feature calls for water, this valve's solenoids open to admit it and close again once the request is satisfied — since one valve handles both jobs, a failure here can affect the ice maker, the dispenser, or both at once.
Common causes of failure include mineral and sediment buildup from the household water supply interfering with the valve's internal operation, and electrical faults either in the valve itself or in the refrigerator's control board that signals it. A failing dual water valve produces a recognizable set of symptoms: the door dispenser stops delivering water, the ice maker slows down or stops producing ice, water leaking around the valve area, or the valve failing to shut off water flow completely. It directly replaces AP5656686, 3033225, and PS6011774.
Quick Answer
The Choice WR57X10098 Refrigerator Water Valve fixes GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators where the door water dispenser stops working, the ice maker slows down or stops making ice, water is leaking near the valve, or the valve won't shut off completely. Located in the left door on many models. Replaces AP5656686, 3033225, PS6011774. Before replacing, rule out a clogged water filter and check the control board signal — both can produce identical symptoms to a failed valve.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Water dispenser on the refrigerator door has stopped working
Ice maker has slowed down, stopped producing ice, or is malfunctioning intermittently
Both the ice maker and water dispenser affected at the same time
Water leaking or dripping around the valve area
Valve that won't shut off completely, causing continued water flow
Reduced water flow or pressure at the dispenser
What Is a Choice Part?
Choice parts are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications for fit, materials, and performance, giving you reliable quality at a more affordable price than the genuine branded part. Choice is one of our trusted replacement part lines, offering the same function and durability you'd expect from an OEM component.
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator dual water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR57X10098, AP5656686, AGE29764, EAP6011774, PD00025096, PS6011774
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This dual water valve is compatible with select GE refrigerators, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators built on the same GE platform.
Note: This is a dual-function valve serving both the ice maker and water dispenser from a single unit. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Choice-brand replacement dual water inlet valve — controls water flow to both the ice maker and door water dispenser
Resolves "dispenser not working," "ice maker slow or not making ice," "leak near the valve," and "won't shut off" symptoms caused by valve failure
Single central valve simplifies diagnosis and replacement compared to separate dedicated valves
Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the original connection point
Replaces AP5656686, 3033225, and PS6011774
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators
Choice-brand replacement — built to meet or exceed OEM specifications
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR57X10098CM
OEM Part Number
WR57X10098
Part Type
Refrigerator Dual Water Inlet Valve (Ice Maker + Dispenser)
Condition
Choice Replacement
Brand
GE
Location
Left door on many GE refrigerator platforms
Function
Controls water flow to the ice maker and door water dispenser
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Danger — Authorized Service Part Required For Flammable Refrigerant Systems GE's own service guidance carries an explicit warning for this component: it is a manufacturer-authorized service part intended for use in refrigerator models that use a flammable refrigerant, such as R600a. Using an unauthorized or incorrectly rated service part in a unit that uses a flammable refrigerant could lead to a risk of fire or explosion. Before ordering or installing, confirm your refrigerator's refrigerant type and verify this part is correct for your specific model. If you have any doubt about your refrigerant type or the correct part for your unit, contact our support team with your model number before proceeding, or have a qualified appliance technician perform this repair.
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet, and shut off the water supply valve behind or below the refrigerator before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically through the left door on models where this valve is door-mounted, or at the rear of the cabinet on others — check your model's service diagram. Have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out when you disconnect the line. Photograph the wiring and water line connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the water supply line from the old valve, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding it in place, then pull the valve free. Install the new WR57X10098 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Restore the water supply and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Test both the ice maker and water dispenser over the next day to confirm normal operation. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench or pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is there a fire/explosion warning on this part?
Some refrigerators use a flammable refrigerant, such as R600a (isobutane), instead of older non-flammable refrigerants. Electrical components like this water valve are near refrigerant lines and can be a source of ignition if a leak were ever present, which is why GE requires an authorized, correctly rated service part for these systems rather than a generic substitute. Confirming your model and refrigerant type before ordering is the appropriate precaution.
My dispenser stopped working but the ice maker still works. Is this the right part?
It's possible, but worth checking a couple of things first, since this valve serves both features from one unit. Confirm the water supply line isn't kinked, and check the inline water filter for a clog, since a blocked filter can starve the dispenser specifically while the ice maker keeps working depending on your model's plumbing. If the filter and supply line are clear and the dispenser still won't deliver water, the valve itself is the likely cause.
Could the problem actually be my water filter instead of this valve?
Yes, it's worth ruling out first. A clogged inline water filter can produce very similar symptoms to a failing valve — reduced dispenser flow, slow ice production, or both. Try replacing the water filter first if it's been a while since the last change; if symptoms persist afterward, the dual water valve is the more likely cause.
Is this a genuine OEM part?
This is a Choice-brand replacement part. Choice parts are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications for fit, materials, and performance, giving you reliable quality at a more affordable price than the genuine branded part.
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