Search results for "Gas Valves"

WH13X26535 Washer Genuine Water Valve 120V, two coil with diffuser outlet.  Fits GE top load washers. Replaces Part Numbers: WH13X26535, WH13X24386, 4931303, WH13X24392, AP6892695, PS12726769, B08V22431T Description: This Water Inlet Valve is a Genuine part for specific GE washing machine models. This crucial component is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the washer. It operates via electrical solenoids that open and close to admit hot and cold water based on the selected wash temperature and cycle.  

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WH13X10024 Genuine OEM Washer Water Valve Replaces Part Numbers: WH13X10024, WH13X0086, WH13X0087, WH13X10004, WH13X10019, WH13X86, WH13X87, AH1155105, EA1155105, OEM15444478, AP3861119, PS1155105. Description: This Water Inlet Valve is a Genuine OEM part for select GE washing machine models. This component is crucial for controlling the flow of water into the washer during the wash and rinse cycles. It works by opening and closing the solenoids to allow the appropriate amount of hot or cold water to enter the washing machine, based on the selected settings.   California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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WD15X26078 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve The WD15X26078 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement dishwasher water inlet valve compatible with a wide range of GE, GE Profile, Café, Haier, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher behind the lower access panel, connecting the household water supply line to the dishwasher's fill circuit. When the control board calls for water during the fill phase, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub — and it closes the instant the call is dropped, stopping flow precisely at the correct fill level. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't fill correctly — leading to poor cleaning performance, error codes, or no wash at all. Rated 120V, 60Hz. Approximate dimensions: 3.75" H x 3.25" W x 3.00" L. Silver/multi-color metal and plastic construction with a deep-threaded, high-quality water inlet for a tight supply-line connection and a secure outlet design that keeps the internal fill hose firmly attached. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications, the WD15X26078 directly replaces 4959029, AP6986683, PS16217027, EAP16217027, and PD00064270. Hard water sediment is a leading cause of inlet valve clogging and failure on GE dishwashers — if your old valve is restricted by mineral buildup, replacement (not cleaning) is the recommended fix, as the internal components are easily damaged during cleaning attempts. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The WD15X26078 Genuine OEM GE Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes GE, GE Profile, Café, Haier, Hotpoint, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, display the H2O error code, make strange noises or vibration during fill, won't stop filling, or leak from the valve area. 120V, 60Hz. Approx 3.75"H x 3.25"W x 3.00"L. Genuine OEM GE. Replaces 4959029, AP6986683, PS16217027, EAP16217027, PD00064270. Compatible with GDF, GDT, GDP, PDT, PDP, QDP, ZDT, DDT, and Café CDT series dishwashers. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher not filling with water at all — valve solenoid not opening Dishwasher filling slowly or not getting enough water — valve clogged with hard water sediment H2O error code displayed — insufficient water intake detected Strange noises or vibration during the fill phase — worn valve diaphragm Dishwasher won't stop filling — valve stuck open (overfill/flood risk) Water leaking from the valve area or its connections Dishes not being cleaned properly due to insufficient water fill Wash cycle interrupted or extended due to fill timeouts Valve inlet screen visibly clogged with mineral deposits Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WD15X26078, AGE846049, AP6986683, EAP16217027, PD00064270, PS16217027 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Note: some similar-looking GE valves (such as WD15X24213 or WD15X26140) are different parts — verify your original valve's part number or your dishwasher model number before ordering. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands: GE dishwashers — GDF series (GDF510PGM4BB/WW, GDF510PSM4SS/5SS, GDF511PSM5SS, GDF511PGM5WW, GDF530PGM4BB/CC/WW/5WW, GDF530PSM4SS/5SS, GDF530PMM4ES, GDF565SSN3SS, GDF630PFM4DS/5DS, GDF630PGM4BB/WW/5BB, GDF630PMM4ES/5ES, GDF630PSM4SS, GDF640HFM4DS, GDF640HGM4WW/5BB, GDF640HMM4ES, GDF645SGN2BB/WW/3BB/3WW, GDF645SMN2ES/3ES, GDF645SSN2SS/3SS and related) GE dishwashers — GDT series (GDT530PGP5BB, GDT530PSP5SS, GDT535PSMASS, GDT535PSM5SS, GDT565SSN2SS, GDT605PSM5SS, GDT630PFM4DS, GDT630PMM4ES/5ES, GDT630PYM4FS, GDT635HMM4ES, GDT635HSM4SS/5SS, GDT645SGN2BB/WW/3WW, GDT645SMN3ES, GDT645SSN2SS, GDT645SYN2FS, GDT665SBN2TS/3TS, GDT665SFN3DS, GDT665SGN2WW/3WW, GDT665SMN2ES, GDT665SSN3SS and related) GE dishwashers — GDP series (GDP615HFM4DS, GDP645SYN3FS/4FS/8FS, GDP665SYN2FS/3FS/4FS/8F7S and related) GE Profile dishwashers — PDT series (PDT715SBN2TS/3TS, PDT715SFN3DS, PDT715SMN2ES/3ES, PDT715SYN3FS, PDT775SYN2FS/3FS, PDT785SBN2TS, PDT785SYN2FS/3FS/5FS and related) GE Profile dishwashers — PDP series (PDP715SBN3TS, PDP715SYN3FS and related) GE dishwashers — QDP series (QDP555SBN4TS, QDP555SYN4FS and related) GE Monogram dishwashers — ZDT series (ZDT925SIN2II/3II/5II, ZDT925SPN2SS/3SS, ZDT925SSN2SS/3SS/5SS, ZDT985SIN3II, ZDT985SPN5SS, ZDT985SSN5SS and related) GE dishwashers — DDT series (DDT700SBN2TS/3TS, DDT700SFN2DS/3DS, DDT700SGN2BB/WW, DDT700SMN2ES and related) Café dishwashers — CDT series (CDT800P2N2S1-N5S1, CDT805M5N2S5-N4S5, CDT805P2N2S1-N5S1, CDT845M5N2S5-N5S5, CDT845P2N2S1-N5S1, CDT845P3N2D1-N5D1, CDT845P4N2W2-N5W2, CDT855M5N2S5/N3S5/N5S5, CDT855P2N2S1/N3S1/N5S1, CDT875M5N2S5-N7S5, CDT875P2N2S1-N5S1, CDT875P3N5D1 and related) Haier dishwashers (select models using the GE-platform valve) Hotpoint and RCA dishwashers (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears dishwashers (select GE-built models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles — precise fill for optimal cleaning performance Solenoid-actuated — opens when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped Rated 120V, 60Hz — correct electrical specifications for compatible GE-platform dishwashers Approximate dimensions: 3.75" H x 3.25" W x 3.00" L Deep-threaded water inlet for a tight, leak-free supply line connection Secure outlet design keeps the internal fill hose firmly attached Resolves H2O error codes, no-fill, slow-fill, overfill, and fill-noise symptoms Replaces 4959029, AP6986683, PS16217027, EAP16217027, and PD00064270 Compatible with GE GDF/GDT/GDP series, GE Profile PDT/PDP series, QDP series, Monogram ZDT series, DDT series, Café CDT series, plus Haier, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built dishwashers DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WD15X26078 Part Type Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Dishwashers (GE platform) Voltage 120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Dimensions Approximately 3.75" H x 3.25" W x 3.00" L Color Silver / Multiple Colors Material Metal / Plastic Error Codes Resolved H2O (insufficient water intake) Compatible Brands GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Haier, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels and a shallow dish ready — residual water remains in the supply line and hoses and will spill when disconnected. Remove the lower access panel (baffle) at the front bottom of the dishwasher — typically 2–4 screws. Locate the water inlet valve where the household supply line enters the dishwasher. Photograph the hose and wire connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve inlet (use pliers for the larger ingress connection — place the dish underneath to catch leftover water). Disconnect the internal fill hose from the valve outlet (needle-nose pliers help with the smaller egress hose clamp). Unplug the electrical connector that snaps onto the valve solenoid. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve bracket to the frame and lift the old valve out. Install the new WD15X26078 valve in the same position, secure the mounting screws, reconnect the internal fill hose with its clamp, and snap the electrical connector back on. Reconnect the household water supply line to the valve inlet — align the threads carefully and tighten snugly without over-torquing. Turn the water supply back on and use a flashlight to inspect all connections for leaks BEFORE reinstalling the access panel. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm proper filling with no leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, needle-nose pliers, shallow dish, towels, flashlight, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What does the H2O error code mean on my GE dishwasher? The H2O error code on GE dishwashers indicates the control board is not detecting sufficient water intake during the fill phase. Common causes are: a failed or clogged water inlet valve (the most frequent culprit), the household water supply shutoff valve partially closed, a kinked supply line, or low household water pressure. First verify the supply valve under the sink is fully open and the line isn't kinked. If the supply checks out, the WD15X26078 inlet valve is the standard fix — hard water sediment gradually clogs the valve's internal screen and passages, restricting flow until the dishwasher can't fill within its expected time window. Can I clean the old valve instead of replacing it? It's not recommended. While the inlet screen on some valves can be carefully brushed clean, the internal passages and solenoid diaphragm of a sediment-clogged valve are easily damaged during cleaning attempts — a common outcome is a valve that leaks or sticks open after being "cleaned," which risks flooding. Real-world experience (including customer stories with this exact part) shows that attempting to clean a hard-water-clogged valve often breaks it. Given the moderate cost of the OEM replacement versus the flood risk of a compromised valve, replacement is the reliable repair. If your area has hard water, consider this a maintenance item that may need periodic replacement. My dishwasher won't stop filling — is that also this valve? Yes — a valve stuck in the open position is the other failure mode. When sediment or a worn diaphragm prevents the valve from sealing fully closed, water continues to flow into the tub even when the control board has cut power to the solenoid. This can lead to overfilling and potentially flooding through the door or float overflow. If your dishwasher keeps filling past its normal level, or you find water accumulating in the tub between cycles, shut off the water supply at the sink immediately and replace the valve before running the dishwasher again. How do I know this is the right valve for my GE dishwasher? Check your dishwasher's model number (on a label along the door frame or tub edge) against the compatibility list above — the WD15X26078 covers a broad range of GE GDF, GDT, GDP, Profile PDT/PDP, QDP, Monogram ZDT, DDT, and Café CDT series dishwashers. Be aware that some similar-looking GE valves (such as WD15X24213 or WD15X26140) are different parts used on other model groups — they are not interchangeable with the WD15X26078. If your model isn't in the list or your original valve shows a different part number, contact our support team with your model number and we'll verify the correct valve before you order. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible GE, GE Profile, Café, Monogram, Haier, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WR57X25917 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Water Valve Fits Specific GE Refrigerator Models. Double Water inlet Valve Replaces part Numbers: WR57X25917, 4547034, AP5999527, PS11729575. Description:  The Water Valve is a Genuine OEM component specifically designed for GE refrigerators with ice makers. Located inside the freezer compartment, it controls the flow of water to the icemaker assembly.

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285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The 285805 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold supply hoses connect, and it controls every drop of water entering the tub — energizing to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together when the control calls for a fill, and closing again once the correct level is reached. It's one of the longest-running, most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, the same platform that our 8318084 lid switch listing also serves. This is a complete kit: it ships with the mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions, and it accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 threaded NHT ports. Depending on production run, the valve body may arrive blue or green — both are correct and function identically. Over years of use, mineral and sediment buildup (especially calcium deposits from hard water) can restrict or block the valve, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber seals can simply wear out with age. A blocked or failing valve commonly shows up as slow filling, no fill on one side, continuous filling that won't stop, or leaking after the cycle ends. It directly replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517. Quick Answer The 285805 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes direct-drive top-load washers and Whirlpool-built washer/dryer laundry centers that won't fill, fill slowly, won't stop filling, leak after the cycle, or have no hot or no cold water. Complete kit with mounting bracket, screws, and instructions. Dual-port valve for a 1/2" ID hose, two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections, approximately 5.7" tall. Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, W10110517. The included bracket may be shaped differently than your original integrated bracket — you may need to test a couple of orientations to get the hose connections positioned correctly. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer won't stop filling — overfilling past the normal level Water leaking or dripping from the washer after the cycle has ended No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub Washer not washing properly due to insufficient or incorrect-temperature water Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Hot water inlet blocked by calcium or mineral deposits after years of hard-water use Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 285805, 285805VP, AP3094541, 21026, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, W10110517, AH334646, EA334646, AWP39626, PD00002373, PS334646. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washers and washer/dryer laundry centers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers and laundry centers Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana top-load washers (select models) Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, and Estate top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric top-load washers (select models) Select Kenmore and Ikea top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's direct-drive top-load platform, including stackable washer/dryer laundry centers — the same general platform used by our 8318084 lid switch listing. It is not intended for front-load washers, which use a different valve design. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Complete kit — includes mounting bracket, screws, and installation instructions Dual-port design accepts a 1/2" ID hose through two 3/4"-11 NHT threaded connections Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "won't stop filling," and "leaking after cycle" symptoms caused by valve failure One of the most widely used inlet valves on the Whirlpool direct-drive top-load platform Approximately 5.7" tall, metal and plastic construction Replaces AP3094541, 21026, 285805VP, 292197, 3349451, 3354565, 3360387, 3360388, 3360389, 3360391, 3360392, 3429537, 358992, 370067, 388328, 3952163, 3952164, 3955673, 8228, 868761, 99989697, AH334646, EA334646, PS334646, and W10110517 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, and related direct-drive top-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number 285805 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Kit Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washers / Laundry Centers Kit Contents Water inlet valve, mounting bracket, screws, instructions Ports 2 (hot and cold) Hose Compatibility 1/2" ID Thread Specification Two 3/4"-11 x 1/2" NHT hose threads Height Approx. 5.7 in. Material Metal and plastic Color Blue or green (both correct — varies by production run) Quantity 1 valve kit Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Bracket Orientation May Take Trial And Error Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Pull the washer away from the wall for access, then disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve — have a towel ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the screws securing the rear or top cabinet panel (on some stackable laundry centers, the entire top enclosure lifts off as one piece, which also disconnects the lid switch wiring harness at the rear — note this connector's location before pulling the panel free). Photograph the wiring and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Unplug the wiring harness from the old valve, remove its mounting screws, and pull it free along with its bracket. Some original valves used an integrated bracket, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to fit different configurations — you may need to test a couple of orientations before the hose connections line up correctly with your existing hoses. Mount the new 285805 to the bracket, secure it in the cabinet in the same general position as the old valve, and reconnect the wiring harness. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the cabinet panel, reconnecting the lid switch harness if applicable, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My valve is blue but the old one was green (or vice versa). Did I get the wrong part? No — this is normal. The 285805 has shipped with either a blue or a green valve body depending on the production run, and both are the correct, fully functional part. The color has no effect on fit or performance. The new valve's bracket doesn't match my old one. What do I do? This is a known and expected difference. Many original valves used a bracket integrated directly into the valve body, while this replacement kit ships with a separate bracket that has multiple mounting holes to accommodate different washer configurations. It may take a little trial and error to find the orientation that positions the valve correctly for your existing hose connections — this is a bracket design difference, not a sign that the wrong part was sent. Only hot water won't fill, but cold works fine. Is that this valve? Yes, likely — and often it's specifically mineral or calcium buildup rather than outright failure. Hot water tends to accelerate scale buildup inside the valve port compared to cold, so after many years of hard water use, the hot side can become restricted or fully blocked while the cold side continues working normally. Replacing the valve resolves this since the internal ports aren't designed to be cleaned out once heavily scaled. My washer won't stop filling. Is that dangerous, and is it this valve? It can lead to overflow and water damage if left unaddressed, so it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if this happens rather than waiting. A valve that won't stop filling usually means a worn internal seal or diaphragm is no longer sealing shut when the solenoid de-energizes, letting water continue flowing. This valve is the correct replacement for that symptom. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same dual-port solenoid design, thread specifications, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your direct-drive top-load washer or laundry center. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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AJU34125552 Genuine OEM LG Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve The AJU34125552 is a genuine LG OEM water inlet valve for LG refrigerators, supplying water to both the ice maker and the door water dispenser from a single valve assembly. Mounted at the rear of the refrigerator where the household water supply line connects, this valve opens on command from the control board to admit water for either feature, and closes again once the request is satisfied. Common causes of failure include mineral and sediment buildup from hard water interfering with the internal solenoid over time, and general electrical wear. A failing valve typically shows up as the ice maker no longer producing ice, the water dispenser slowing down or stopping entirely, or both symptoms appearing together since one valve serves both functions. Quick Answer The AJU34125552 Genuine OEM LG Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve fixes LG refrigerators where the ice maker stopped making ice, the water dispenser isn't working, water flow is slow, or there's a leak near the valve at the back of the refrigerator. Supplies both the ice maker and dispenser from one valve. Common Problems This Part Fixes Ice maker has stopped making ice, or is producing less ice than usual Water dispenser on the refrigerator door isn't working or has slowed down Both the ice maker and water dispenser affected together Slow water flow at the dispenser Water leaking near the valve at the back of the refrigerator No water or ice production at all Valve failure following known hard water conditions at the home Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers AJU34125552, EAP10066440, FIX10066440, OEM17872815, PS10066440, AP5957602, ALG1274937, PD00053838. We were not able to confirm additional cross-reference or superseding part numbers for this specific part number from reliable sources at the time this page was built, so none are listed here rather than guessed. If you have a cross-reference number for your appliance, contact our support team and we will verify compatibility before you order. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select LG refrigerators. Note: A specific verified compatible model list was not available at the time this page was built. LG has used several visually similar water inlet valve part numbers across different refrigerator platforms, and parts that look identical can have small but important differences. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number and we will confirm fitment before you purchase. Key Features Genuine LG OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration Single valve assembly supplies water to both the ice maker and door water dispenser Resolves "ice maker not making ice," "dispenser not working," "slow water flow," and "leak near the valve" symptoms caused by valve failure Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance DIY-friendly repair — typically 15 to 30 minutes Product Specifications Part Number AJU34125552 Part Type Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve (Ice Maker + Dispenser) Condition Genuine OEM Brand LG Location Rear of refrigerator, at the household water line connection Function Supplies water to the ice maker and door water dispenser Repair Difficulty Easy — 15 to 30 minutes Quantity 1 valve assembly Compatible Brand LG Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Store Perishable Food Separately Shut off the water supply and unplug the refrigerator before beginning, and move perishable food to a cooler for the duration of the repair. Wear work gloves. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall for access, then locate the valve at the rear of the cabinet where the water supply line connects. Photograph the wiring harness and water line connections before disconnecting anything. On some installations, the wiring harness has been routed between water supply lines, which can make the connector difficult to reach and unplug — if this is the case, gently reposition or loosen a water line first rather than forcing the connector. Disconnect the water supply line from the old valve, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place, then pull it free. Install the new AJU34125552 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully — route the wiring the same way the original was routed, avoiding pinch points against the water lines if possible. Reattach the water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Restore the water supply and check for leaks before restoring power. Push the refrigerator back into place and test both the ice maker and water dispenser over the following day to confirm normal operation. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My ice maker and dispenser both stopped working at the same time. Is that normal for a valve failure? Yes, this is actually a very telling symptom. Because one valve assembly supplies water to both the ice maker and the door dispenser, a failure inside the valve itself commonly affects both functions simultaneously. If only one of the two has stopped working while the other functions normally, it's worth double-checking the water filter and supply line for a localized restriction before assuming the valve has failed, but a simultaneous failure of both points strongly toward this valve. The wiring harness on my old valve was hard to reach. Is that normal? It can be, depending on how the original installation routed the wiring. Some installations run the harness between two water supply lines, which can make the connector awkward to access and unplug. If you find yourself in this situation, gently repositioning or loosening a nearby water line first — rather than forcing the connector — makes it much easier to disconnect without damaging anything. Could hard water be why my valve failed? Yes, this is a common and well-documented cause. Mineral deposits from hard water can build up inside the valve over time and interfere with the internal solenoid's ability to open and close properly, eventually leading to failure. If you know your home has hard water and this valve has failed, it may be worth considering a water softener or more frequent filter changes to extend the life of the replacement. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by LG to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design and dual-function (ice maker and dispenser) configuration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your refrigerator. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve The XPARTCO W10599356 is an aftermarket replacement water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for hot and cold supply connections Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 OEM Part Number W10599356 (formerly W10509710) Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration of the original W10599356 / W10509710 valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WR57X30890 Refrigerator Genuine Water Valve Water inlet valve assembly with Wire Harness Replaces Part Numbers: WR57X30890, WR57X26569, WR57X30891, AP6891693, PS12727426. Description: This water inlet valve is a Genuine OEM part for select GE Refrigerator models, responsible for controlling the flow of water into the refrigerator's ice maker and water dispenser. It is typically located at the back of the appliance, near the water supply line. The water inlet valve features quick-connect fittings for easy installation and ensures a reliable and steady supply of water for ice production and dispensing.  

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XPARTCO W11168743 Washer Water Valve (Hot Side) The XPARTCO W11168743 is an aftermarket replacement hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers. This is a single-solenoid valve dedicated to the hot water supply — it has one hose fitting inlet and one water outlet, and its only job is to open when the control calls for hot water and close again once the correct fill level is reached. This platform pairs the hot valve with a separate two-solenoid cold valve (sold separately as W11168740), so the hot and cold sides are independent components rather than one combined valve body. Because it's a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here produces a distinctive symptom: hot-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while cold fills (governed by the separate cold valve) continue working normally on their own. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing fully, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn rubber grommet or gasket at the push-on outlet connection. It directly replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, and EAP12348074. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11168743 Washer Water Valve (Hot Side) fixes Whirlpool-built top-load washers where hot water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or fails to stop filling. Single-solenoid hot-only valve, 120V, 60Hz, standard hose fitting inlet with push-on outlet connection. Replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, EAP12348074. This is the hot-side valve only — the companion cold-side valve is sold separately as W11168740. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with hot water while cold water fills normally Hot water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer overfills or won't stop filling Water leaking or trickling into the drum on the hot side when the washer is off Washer not washing properly due to insufficient hot water reaching the drum Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water reaching the washer despite the water heater and supply line working correctly Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the hot supply connection Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11168743, WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, AWP43142, PD00040928, PS12348074, EAP12348074 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built top-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana top-load washers (select models) Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric top-load washers (select models) Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, and Estate top-load washers (select models) Select Kenmore and Ikea top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Note — hot side only, and a different platform than our front-load valves: This is the hot water valve for Whirlpool's top-load platform. The matching cold water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11168740 — the two are not interchangeable. This part is also a different valve family entirely from the front-load W11688994 (hot) / W11688995 (cold) valves elsewhere in our catalog; those fit a different washer platform and will not work here. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which valve fits your washer. Key Features Aftermarket replacement single-solenoid hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers Standard hose fitting inlet with a single push-on water outlet and rubber grommet seal Resolves "won't fill with hot water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "won't stop filling" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 120V, 60Hz Approximately 3-1/2"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-1/4" deep Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required Replaces WPW10240948, W10240948, W10921515, 33390068, 4585634, AP6327638, PS12348074, and EAP12348074 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Roper, and Kenmore top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number XPW11168743 OEM Part Number W11168743 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Hot Side Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Top-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Solenoids 1 (dedicated hot water function) Inlet Connection Standard hose fitting Outlet Connection Push-on with rubber grommet Dimensions Approx. 3-1/2"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-1/4" deep Companion Part W11168740 (cold water valve, sold separately) Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, Magic Chef, Crosley, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot water supply hose from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit next to each other and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old hot valve, disconnect the push-on outlet hose (check the rubber grommet for wear and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked), remove the mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the cold valve (W11168740) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11168743 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, reconnect the electrical connector, and press the outlet hose back onto its fitting with the grommet properly seated. Reattach the hot water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm hot water fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Hot water won't fill but cold water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Since your washer uses separate hot and cold valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the hot side only affects hot fills while the cold valve keeps working independently. If hot-specific cycles are the ones failing while cold cycles are unaffected, this hot-side valve is the correct part to replace. Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time? Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that's actually failed. If only hot fills are affected, replacing this W11168743 valve alone is sufficient. Some people choose to replace both while the top panel is already off, especially on an older washer, but it isn't required. Is this the same valve used on your front-load washer listings? No. This valve is built for Whirlpool's top-load platform. The front-load hot/cold valve pair in our catalog (W11688994 and W11688995) is a completely different part family for a different washer design, and the two are not interchangeable. Always check whether your washer is a top-load or front-load model, and verify your exact model number, before ordering either. My washer has no hot water at all, but the water heater is working. What should I check first? Before assuming the valve has failed, confirm the hot water supply valve at the wall behind the washer is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris that could be restricting flow, and make sure the hot supply hose isn't kinked. If those check out and hot water still isn't reaching the drum, the valve itself is the likely cause. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the single-solenoid design, connection type, and dimensions of the original W11168743 hot water valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and related top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO AJU75152601 Washer Water Inlet Valve Replaces 5221EA1008F, AJU73213301 The XPARTCO AJU75152601 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve assembly compatible with select LG and Kenmore top-load washers in the WT1, WT4, WT5, WT6, and WT7 series. This is a multi-port valve assembly that controls water flow from the household supply lines into the washer tub and dispenser compartments. The assembly contains multiple solenoid-operated valve ports: hot water inlet, cold water inlet, bleach dispenser valve, fabric softener dispenser valve, and jet spray valve — all integrated into a single assembly that connects to the washer's control board via wiring harnesses. When the water inlet valve fails — or when one individual port fails — the washer may not fill at all, fill too slowly, fill with the wrong temperature, overfill, fail to dispense bleach or fabric softener, or leak from the valve body. The valve solenoids operate at 12V DC. This kit includes the complete valve assembly and two AGM73269501 inlet screens. It directly replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AGF76283896, AP6308239, TAW35618287, AH3527446, AJU75152603, EA3527446, PS3527446, and PS12374721. Installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO AJU75152601 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes LG and Kenmore top-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, fill with wrong temperature, won't dispense bleach or fabric softener, overfill, or leak from the valve. Multi-port assembly with hot, cold, bleach, fabric softener, and jet spray valves. 12V DC solenoids. Includes 2 AGM73269501 inlet screens. Compatible with LG WT1xxx–WT7xxx and Kenmore 796-series. Replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AP6308239, TAW35618287, PS12374721. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling with water at all when a cycle is started Washer filling very slowly — one or more valve ports partially blocked or failing Washer filling with only hot or only cold water — one temperature solenoid has failed Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve port stuck open Bleach dispenser not dispensing during the wash cycle Fabric softener not dispensing at the correct rinse cycle point Jet spray not activating during fill Water dripping into the tub between cycles — valve port not closing completely Water leaking from the valve body or connection points at the back of the washer Replaces Part Numbers This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: 5221EA1008F, AJU73213301, AJU75152601, AH3527446, AJU75152603, EA3527446, PS3527446, ALG53778, AP6308239, PD00042814, PS12374721, TAW35618287. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select LG and Kenmore top-load washers from the following series: LG top-load washers — WT1 series (WT1101CW, WT1201CW, WT1201CV, WT1301CW, WT1501CW, WT1701CW, WT1701CV, WT1801HVA, WT1801HWA and related models) LG top-load washers — WT4 series (WT4801CW, WT4870CW, WT4970CW and related models) LG top-load washers — WT5 series (WT5001CW, WT5070CW, WT5101HV, WT5101HW, WT5170HV, WT5270CW, WT5480CW, WT5680HVA, WT5680HWA and related models) LG top-load washers — WT6 series (select models) LG top-load washers — WT7 series (WT7200CW, WT7200CV, WT7500CW, WT7600HKA and related models) Kenmore / Sears top-load washers — 796-series (79631512210, 79631512211, 79631522211, 79631502210, 79631502211 and related models) Note: Always verify your exact model number before ordering. Newer LG WT7100/WT7150/WT7400/WT7405 series models use the AJU75152602 valve instead. Contact our support team with your model number to confirm the correct valve for your washer. Key Features Multi-port valve assembly — controls hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser, and jet spray from a single replaceable assembly 12V DC solenoid operation — responds to signals from the washer's control board to deliver the correct water to each compartment Resolves fill, dispenser, overfill, and drip-when-off symptoms in a single replacement Kit includes complete valve assembly and 2x AGM73269501 replacement inlet screens ABS plastic and stainless steel construction — durable and resistant to mineral buildup Replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F, 5221EA1008P, AP6308239, TAW35618287, and over 10 additional cross-reference numbers Compatible with LG WT1xxx through WT7xxx and Kenmore 796-series top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 15–25 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number AJU75152601 Also Replaces AJU73213301, 5221EA1008F (current supersession) Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (Multi-Port) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application LG and Kenmore Top-Load Washers Valve Ports Hot water, cold water, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser, jet spray Solenoid Voltage 12V DC Material ABS plastic / Stainless steel Kit Includes Valve assembly + 2x AGM73269501 inlet screens Compatible Series LG WT1xxx, WT4xxx, WT5xxx, WT6xxx, WT7xxx; Kenmore 796-series Compatible Brands LG, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve assembly is mounted on the upper rear of the washer — the external supply hoses connect to the hot and cold inlet ports. Photograph all wire harness connections and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Before installing, install the new inlet screens (AGM73269501) included in the kit into the hot and cold inlet ports of the new valve. Disconnect the old valve's external supply hoses, internal hoses, and wire harness connectors. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the old valve. Install the new AJU75152601 valve, reconnect all hoses and wire harnesses in the same positions as documented in your photos, and secure the mounting screws. Reconnect the external supply hoses, restore water supply and power, and run a fill cycle to verify proper filling, confirm all dispenser ports activate at the correct cycle points, and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers. Frequently Asked Questions What is the difference between AJU75152601, AJU73213301, and 5221EA1008F? These are all part numbers for the same LG washer water inlet valve assembly used across different production runs. 5221EA1008F was the original part number, AJU73213301 was an updated version, and AJU75152601 is the current part number. All three are interchangeable. If your washer's documentation, parts diagram, or old valve label shows any of these numbers, this replacement is the correct current part to order. My washer won't dispense fabric softener — is this the right part? Yes — the fabric softener dispenser solenoid is one of the ports integrated into the AJU75152601 valve assembly. When the fabric softener dispenser fails to activate at the right point in the rinse cycle, it is almost always because the solenoid valve controlling that port has failed. Since it is part of the same multi-port valve assembly, replacing the AJU75152601 resolves fabric softener, bleach, and jet spray dispenser issues in the same repair. Individual ports cannot be replaced — the complete assembly must be replaced when any one port fails. What are the AGM73269501 inlet screens included in the kit? The AGM73269501 screens are small mesh filters that install inside the hot and cold water inlet ports of the valve. They trap mineral deposits and debris from the household water supply before they can reach the valve seats and solenoid mechanisms. The kit includes two screens — one for the hot inlet and one for the cold inlet. Installing these fresh screens with the new valve helps extend valve life, especially in areas with hard water. If the old valve failed due to mineral clogging rather than solenoid failure, cleaning the supply hoses before installation is also recommended. How do I know if the water inlet valve has failed vs. the control board? You can test the valve solenoids with a multimeter. Disconnect the harness from a solenoid coil and probe both terminals — a working solenoid coil shows a resistance reading (typically 200–500 ohms); an open circuit confirms the solenoid has failed. If all solenoid coils test good but the valve still does not operate, the control board may not be sending the correct 12V DC signal to the solenoids — this requires checking voltage at the solenoid connectors with the washer powered and in a fill cycle, which is a more advanced diagnostic step. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine LG OEM part, but is manufactured from ABS plastic and stainless steel to match the port configuration, solenoid specifications, and dimensions of the original AJU75152601 water inlet valve assembly. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W11590294 Gas Oven Igniter The XPARTCO W11590294 is an aftermarket replacement flat-style silicon carbide gas oven igniter compatible with select Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, KitchenAid, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore gas ranges in the WFG, AGR, VRGW, and related series. The oven igniter is a silicon carbide heating element mounted next to the oven burner tube. When a bake or broil cycle is started, the igniter draws electrical current through the gas safety valve, which holds the valve open — and simultaneously heats to ignition temperature to light the gas. The igniter must draw at least 3.2 amps to hold the gas valve fully open; as the silicon carbide element ages and weakens, it draws progressively less current, causing the oven to take too long to light, not light at all, or glow without ever opening the gas valve. This flat-style igniter is rated 3.3–3.6 amps at 120V and measures approximately 4" wide x 1" high. It features a silicon carbide element, high-temperature ceramic housing, and metal bracket. The current part number W11590294 directly supersedes W11208965, W11613927, and W11506321 — all four are the same igniter across successive production revisions. It also replaces 4977065, AP7193166, PS16744629, and EAP16744629. Pre-attached wire connectors included. Note: do not touch the silicon carbide element with bare hands — skin oils cause premature burnout. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W11590294 Gas Oven Igniter fixes Whirlpool-family gas ovens that won't heat, where the igniter glows but the burner never lights, or where preheat takes too long. Flat silicon carbide igniter, 3.3–3.6A, 120V, approx. 4"W x 1"H. Do not touch element with bare hands. Replaces W11208965, W11613927, W11506321, 4977065, AP7193166, PS16744629. Compatible with Whirlpool WFG320/WFG505, Amana AGR4203/AGR6303, Crosley VRGW, Maytag, KitchenAid, and more. Common Problems This Part Fixes Oven not heating — igniter not reaching operating temperature or gas valve not opening Igniter glows orange or red but the oven burner never lights Oven takes more than 90 seconds to ignite — igniter too weak to fully open the gas valve Oven preheats very slowly — weakened igniter limiting gas valve opening Gas smell when oven is turned on but burner does not light Igniter visibly cracked, broken, or burned out Bake or broil function not working on compatible models Replaces Part Numbers This oven igniter directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11590294, W11208965, W11506321, W11613927, AP7193166, AWP45526, EAP16744629, PD00083398, PS16744629. W11590294 is the current production part number superseding W11208965, W11613927, and W11506321 — all four are the same igniter. If your parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this replacement is correct. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This oven igniter is compatible with select gas ranges and ovens from the following brands and series: Whirlpool gas ranges — WFG320 series (WFG320M0MB0, WFG320M0MS0, WFG320M0MW0 and related models) Whirlpool gas ranges — WFG505 series (WFG505M0BS4, WFG505M0BW3, WFG505M0MB0, WFG505M0MS0, WFG505M0MW0 and related models) Amana gas ranges — AGR4203 series (AGR4203MNB0, AGR4203MNW0 and related models) Amana gas ranges — AGR6303 series (AGR6303MMB0, AGR6303MMW0 and related models) Crosley gas ranges — VRGW series (VRGW3150RB0, VRGW3150RW0, VRGW3162RB0, VRGW3162RS0, VRGW3162RW0 and related models) Maytag gas ranges (select models) KitchenAid gas ranges (select models) Jenn-Air gas ranges (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore gas ranges (select models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Flat-style silicon carbide oven igniter — heats to ignition temperature and draws current through the gas safety valve to hold it open so gas can flow to the burner Draws 3.3–3.6 amps at 120V — correct amperage range to reliably open the oven gas safety valve on compatible models Dimensions: approximately 4" wide x 1" high Silicon carbide element, high-temperature ceramic housing, metal mounting bracket Pre-attached wire connectors included — direct plug-in installation on compatible models Current production part superseding W11208965, W11613927, and W11506321 Do not touch the silicon carbide element with bare hands — skin oils cause premature burnout Compatible with Whirlpool WFG320/WFG505, Amana AGR4203/AGR6303, Crosley VRGW, Maytag, KitchenAid, and related brands Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number XPW11590294 Supersedes W11208965, W11613927, W11506321 Part Type Gas Oven Flat Igniter (Hot Surface Igniter) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Gas Ranges and Ovens Igniter Style Flat silicon carbide element Amperage Draw 3.3 – 3.6 Amps Voltage 120V AC Dimensions Approximately 4" W x 1" H Material Silicon carbide / Ceramic / Metal / Plastic Color White / Silver Connector Pre-attached wire connectors Handling Note Do not touch element — skin oils cause premature burnout Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, KitchenAid, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Gas Appliance Safety Warning This part is installed in a gas range. Always unplug the range and shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve before beginning any repair. If you smell gas at any point during or after installation, leave the area immediately and contact your gas utility provider. Do not restore power or gas until the repair is fully complete and all connections are confirmed secure. ⚠️ Handle With Care — Do Not Touch the Igniter Element The silicon carbide igniter element is fragile and sensitive to skin oils. Handle only by the bracket and wiring — never touch the silicon carbide element itself. To install: unplug the range and shut off gas. Remove the oven racks and oven bottom panel to expose the burner assembly. Locate the old igniter mounted next to the oven burner tube. Disconnect the igniter's wire connectors and remove the two mounting screws securing the bracket. Note the wire routing inside the range cavity before removing — be careful not to let the burner wires fall back into the range body. Connect the new W11590294 igniter's pre-attached connectors to the matching wires from the range. Mount the new igniter in the same position with the two bracket screws. Reinstall the oven bottom panel and racks. Restore gas and power, then run a bake cycle and confirm the igniter glows and the burner lights within 60–90 seconds. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions What is the relationship between W11590294, W11208965, W11613927, and W11506321? These are all part numbers for the same gas oven igniter across successive production revisions by Whirlpool. W11506321 was an earlier version, W11613927 and W11208965 were subsequent updates, and W11590294 is the current production number. All four are the same flat silicon carbide igniter with the same specifications, dimensions, and function. If your range's parts diagram or old igniter shows any of these numbers, this replacement covers all of them. My oven igniter glows but the burner never lights — is this the right part? Yes — an igniter that glows but fails to light the burner is the most common symptom of a weakened igniter. The gas safety valve requires at least 3.2 amps of current draw through the igniter to hold it open. As the silicon carbide element ages, it draws less current — eventually reaching a point where it glows visibly but no longer draws enough current to fully open the gas valve. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without the burner lighting, it needs replacement. The W11590294 is rated 3.3–3.6 amps, which is the correct range to reliably activate the safety valve on compatible models. What is the difference between W11590294 and W11176454? Both are flat silicon carbide oven igniters for Whirlpool-family gas ranges, but for different model series. The W11590294 is used on the WFG320, WFG505, and related entry-level Whirlpool and Amana gas ranges. The W11176454 (which replaces W10914411) is used on higher-end Whirlpool, Amana, and Maytag models across a broader range of WFG, MGR, and related series. They have the same amperage rating and igniter style but are not always interchangeable — always verify your model number before ordering to confirm which igniter is correct for your range. How do I test if the oven igniter has failed? The most practical test is observation: if the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without the burner lighting, the igniter is too weak. For a more precise test, use a multimeter in resistance mode — disconnect the igniter and measure resistance across the element. A working W11590294-style igniter typically reads between 40–100 ohms at room temperature. An open circuit (infinite resistance) means the element has burned through completely. You can also test in operation by measuring current draw at the igniter circuit — a reading below 3.2 amps indicates the igniter is too weak to reliably open the gas valve. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured from silicon carbide, ceramic, metal, and plastic to match the amperage draw, dimensions, and performance of the original W11590294 gas oven igniter. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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