WH02X10363 Genuine OEM GE Washer Hub Nut
The WH02X10363 is a genuine GE OEM hub nut for GE, Hotpoint, and select RCA and Kenmore top-load washers. This nut is what secures the wash basket to the transmission's drive spline, holding the entire tub assembly firmly attached to the drive system. Every time the washer agitates or spins, this single nut is what keeps the basket properly seated and aligned rather than shifting or working loose under that repeated mechanical load.
Over years of use, or from overloading the washer with oversized loads, this nut can loosen or wear enough that the basket no longer sits securely. A failed or loose hub nut typically shows up as a basket that wobbles or feels loose, unusual noise during agitation or spin, or in more advanced cases, a basket that isn't properly engaging with the drive system at all. It directly replaces AP5793681, 3029784, and PS8757009.
Quick Answer
The WH02X10363 Genuine OEM GE Washer Hub Nut fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore top-load washers with a wobbling or loose-feeling basket, unusual noise during agitation or spin, or a basket that isn't securely engaging with the drive system. Replaces AP5793681, 3029784, PS8757009. This nut requires a very specific torque — GE's own guidance calls for a 90 ft-lb torque-limiting extension and a 1-5/16" (33mm) impact socket. Using a standard impact wrench without the torque limiter can damage both the new nut and the transmission.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Wash basket that wobbles or feels loose
Unusual noise during agitation or spin
Basket that isn't properly engaging with the drive system
Missing or broken hub nut
Basket instability that worsens with larger or unbalanced loads
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer hub nut directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH02X10363, 3029784, AGE1396433, AP5793681, EAP8757009, PD00046649, PS8757009.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This hub nut is compatible with select GE top-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, Café, and Kenmore washers built on the GE platform, including model numbers such as GHWN8350D0WS and GTW465ASN2WW.
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since GE uses different hub nut sizes and thread designs across its washer lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified thread and torque rating
Secures the wash basket to the transmission drive spline
Resolves "wobbling basket," "loose feel," and "unusual noise during agitation or spin" symptoms
1-5/16" (33mm) nut size
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original thread and fit
Replaces AP5793681, 3029784, and PS8757009
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, Café, and Kenmore top-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH02X10363
Part Type
Washer Hub Nut
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE
Application
Top-Load Washers
Size
1-5/16" (33mm)
Function
Secures the wash basket to the transmission drive spline
Required Torque
90 ft-lb (torque-limiting extension required)
Thread Direction
Reverse-threaded — tightens counter-clockwise
Repair Difficulty
Moderate to Hard — specialized tools required
Quantity
1 hub nut
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, Café, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Critical — Correct Torque Tool Required, And This Nut Threads Counter-Clockwise Unplug the washer before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Remove the fabric softener dispenser to access the agitator/auger assembly. Use a screwdriver to puncture through the inner shaft of the auger, then twist clockwise until the auger releases — this step can be difficult, and you'll need to hold the basket steady to keep it from rotating while you work. Lift the auger out. Remove the 11mm bolt underneath, then lift out the base assembly to expose the hub nut. Per GE's own guidance, removing and installing this nut requires a 90 ft-lb torque-limiting extension (GE part WX05X10028) along with a 1-5/16" (33mm) impact socket (GE part WX05X10022). Using a standard impact wrench without the torque limiter risks over-torquing, which can damage both the new nut and the washer's transmission. Unthread the old 33mm hub nut — this can also be difficult, so be patient and keep the basket from rotating. To install the new WH02X10363, thread it on going counter-clockwise, since this nut is reverse-threaded — the opposite direction of a standard nut. Align the base with the spline shaft, set it into position, and reassemble in reverse order: reinstall the 11mm bolt, reinstall the auger, and reattach the fabric softener dispenser. Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm the basket is stable with no wobble or unusual noise. Tools needed: impact driver or wrench with 90 ft-lb torque-limiting extension, 1-5/16" (33mm) deep well or impact socket, 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, 11mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I really need a special torque tool, or can I use a regular impact wrench?
GE's own manufacturer guidance is explicit on this point: a 90 ft-lb torque-limiting extension must be used when removing or installing this hub nut to prevent damage to the nut and the transmission from over-torquing. A standard impact wrench alone can apply far more force than this nut and the transmission are designed to handle, so skipping the torque limiter risks turning a simple nut replacement into a much larger and more expensive transmission repair.
Which direction does this nut turn to tighten?
This nut is reverse-threaded, meaning it tightens by turning counter-clockwise — the opposite of a standard nut. This is an easy detail to miss if you're not expecting it, and turning it the wrong direction won't seat it correctly. Keep this in mind both when removing the old nut and installing the new one.
My basket feels wobbly. Is this definitely the hub nut?
It's a strong possibility, especially if the wobble has developed gradually or worsened after washing unusually large or unbalanced loads. Since this nut is what holds the entire basket assembly firmly attached to the transmission's drive spline, a loosened or worn nut directly translates into a basket that no longer sits securely.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original thread design, size, and torque rating of the hub nut originally installed in your washer.
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Genuine OEM WE04X24550 Dryer Timer
The Genuine OEM GE WE04X24550 is a mechanical dryer timer. It controls the dryer's cycle duration and its electrical components, advances the cycle through its stages, and shuts the dryer off at the end of the cycle. When the timer fails, the dryer may not start, tumble endlessly, shut off early, or have a timer knob that won't advance.
This is the original GE part, and it is a direct replacement for the earlier WE04X24549 timer. It is listed for select GE dryers, both gas and electric. Check your model number before ordering, since timers differ between dryer families.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WE04X24550 Dryer Timer fixes a GE dryer that tumbles endlessly, shuts off early, won't start, or has a timer knob that won't advance because the timer has failed. It replaces WE04X24549. Classic symptom: the dial doesn't advance, or the dryer runs without ever shutting off at the end of the cycle.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer tumbles endlessly and doesn't shut off
Dryer shuts off early
Timer knob won't advance
Dryer won't start, or starts and then stops
Controls that don't respond, or heat that doesn't come on
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dryer timer directly replaces the following part numbers:
WE04X24550, WE04X24549, 234D2377P003, 234D2377P004, 4546121, TMD14M30, TMD16M12, AGE25986, AP6031056, FIX11763064, OEM18093177, PD00039467, PS11763064
WE04X24549 is the earlier GE number, and WE04X24550 was designed as its direct replacement. Confirm against your dryer's parts diagram, or contact our support team, if your model calls out a different number.
Compatibility
This timer is listed for GE gas and electric dryers, including these examples:
GTD42GASJ0WW, GTD42GASJ1WW, GTD42GASJ3WW, GTX42GASJ1WW, GTX42GASJ3WW
GTD48GASW0WB, ETD48GASW0WB, GTD48EASW0WB
XTD72G8ST0WS, XTD72E8ST1WS
Note: The models above are a sample from one retailer, not a full list. The timer's fit depends on the dryer family, so confirm your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM GE mechanical dryer timer
Controls cycle duration and advances through the cycle stages
Handles end-of-cycle shutoff
Direct replacement for WE04X24549
Fits select GE gas and electric dryers
Product Specifications
Part Number
WE04X24550
OEM Part Number
WE04X24550
Part Type
Dryer Timer (Mechanical)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Dimensions
4" D x 3" H x 2" W
Application
GE Dryers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the dryer before beginning, and shut off the gas supply first on gas models. Wear work gloves, as the cabinet edges are sharp. Remove the console as shown in your model's service guide to reach the timer. Photograph the wiring, or note each wire's position, before disconnecting it, then move the connectors to the new timer, mount it, and refit the knob. Test every cycle selection before closing the dryer. This repair involves electrical components, so consult a qualified technician if you are not comfortable with it.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer won't shut off, or the knob won't advance. Is this the part I need?
A worn or stuck timer is a common cause of endless tumbling, early shutoff, and a knob that won't move. If the dryer won't start or heat, check the door switch, thermal fuse, and heating components too, then test the timer with a multimeter against your wiring diagram.
Is WE04X24550 the same as WE04X24549?
WE04X24550 was designed as the direct replacement for WE04X24549, and this timer covers both numbers.
Is this a hard repair?
Retailers rate it medium difficulty because it involves electrical components. Photograph the wiring before you start, and consult a technician if you are unsure.
Will this fit my dryer?
It is listed for select GE gas and electric dryers, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO W10730972 Washer Drain Pump Replaces WPW10730972
The XPARTCO W10730972 is an aftermarket replacement front-load washer drain pump and motor assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis, and KitchenAid front-load washers — including the Whirlpool Duet, Maytag 2000/3000/4000 series, and Kenmore HE2/HE2T Plus. The drain pump removes water from the washer tub during the drain and spin phases of each wash cycle. When the pump fails, the washer will not drain, will leave standing water in the tub, stop mid-cycle, display error codes F21, F33, or SD, or leak from the pump area.
This complete assembly includes the motor, pump housing, and integrated filter — these components are only available as a complete assembly and are not sold separately. Rated 120V, 60Hz, 78W, 1.2A (CL.F duty class). Assembly dimensions are 8-3/4"L x 7"W x 5-1/4"H in off-white plastic housing. Note: Whirlpool redesigned this pump — the replacement may look different from the original but fits and functions identically. It directly replaces WPW10730972, W10130913, W10130913-B, 8540024, 8540025, 8540027, 8540028, 8540996, W10117829, W10183434, W10190647, W10190648, W10201457, AP6023956, PS11757304, and additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10730972 Washer Drain Pump fixes Whirlpool Duet, Maytag 2000/3000/4000 series, and Kenmore HE2/HE2T Plus front-load washers that won't drain, leave standing water, or display error codes F21, F33, or SD. Complete assembly — motor, pump housing, and filter included. 120V/60Hz/78W/1.2A. 8-3/4"L x 7"W x 5-1/4"H. Note: redesigned — may look different from original but fits identically. Replaces WPW10730972, W10130913, 8540024, 8540996, W10117829, AP6023956, PS11757304.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not draining — standing water remaining in the tub after a cycle
Error code F21 displayed — long drain fault (washer unable to drain in allotted time)
Error code F33 displayed — pump motor fault
Error code SD displayed — suds detection or drain issue
Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a drain fault
Loud humming or grinding noise during the drain phase
Water leaking from the front lower area of the washer — pump seal failure
Pump motor running but water not being expelled from the tub
Replaces Part Numbers
This drain pump directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10730972, W10730972, W10130913, 4281917, 8540024, 8540025, 8540027, 8540028, 8540996, W10117829, W10183434, W10190647, W10190648, W10201457, WPW10730972VP, AP6023956, AWP50633, B40-3A01, EAP11757304, PD00025949, PS11757304
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drain pump is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands and series:
Whirlpool front-load washers — Duet series (WFW8300, WFW8400, WFW9050, WFW9150, WFW9200, WFW9250, WFW9400, WFW9450, WFW9500, WFW9550, WFW9600, WFW96HEA, WFW97HED, WFW98HEB and related models)
Maytag front-load washers — 2000 series (MHW2000AW, MHW2000BWW and related models)
Maytag front-load washers — 3000 series (MHW3000BW and related models)
Maytag front-load washers — 4000 series (MHW4000BW, MHW4200BW, MHW5100DW, MHW6000AW, MHW6000XW and related models)
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — HE2 and HE2T Plus series (110.45862400, 110.47532602 and related models)
Amana front-load washers (select models)
Inglis front-load washers (select models)
KitchenAid front-load washers (select models)
Note: Whirlpool redesigned this pump assembly — the replacement may look different from your original pump (larger in size on some versions) but is engineered to fit and function identically in all compatible models. Always verify your model number before ordering. Before replacing the pump, check and clear the coin trap/drain filter — a clogged filter is a common cause of F21/F33 errors that does not require pump replacement.
Key Features
Removes water from the tub during drain and spin cycles — essential for proper washer operation
Complete assembly — motor, pump housing, and integrated filter included; components are not sold separately
Rated 120V, 60Hz, 78W, 1.2A (CL.F) — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-family front-load washers
Dimensions: 8-3/4"L x 7"W x 5-1/4"H — off-white plastic housing
Resolves error codes F21 (long drain), F33 (pump motor fault), and SD (suds/drain) on compatible models
Redesigned assembly — may look different from original but fits and functions identically
Replaces WPW10730972, W10130913, 8540024, 8540996, W10117829, AP6023956, and over 20 additional cross-references
Compatible with Whirlpool Duet, Maytag 2000/3000/4000 series, Kenmore HE2/HE2T Plus, Amana, Inglis, and KitchenAid
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW10730972
OEM Part Number
WPW10730972
Part Type
Front-Load Washer Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Duet, Maytag 2000/3000/4000, Kenmore HE2/HE2T Plus)
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
60 Hz
Wattage
78W
Amperage
1.2A
Duty Class
CL.F
Dimensions
8-3/4"L x 7"W x 5-1/4"H
Color
Off-White
Material
Plastic housing
Includes
Motor, pump housing, and integrated filter — complete assembly
Design Note
Redesigned — may look different from original; fits identically
Error Codes Resolved
F21 (long drain), F33 (pump motor fault), SD (suds/drain)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis, KitchenAid
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Work Gloves Recommended Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning. Place towels on the floor — residual water will drain when the pump is disconnected. The drain pump is accessed through the lower front panel of the washer. Remove the screws on the lower kick panel or snap panel to expose the pump access area. Before removing the pump, drain residual water by removing the coin trap/filter cap from the filter housing (have a shallow pan ready — up to a quart of water may flow out). After draining, disconnect the pump wiring harness. Release the drain hose clamps and disconnect the hoses from the pump. Unscrew or unclip the pump mounting hardware and remove the old pump. Transfer the hoses and wiring to the new W10730972 pump, secure the mounting hardware, and reinstall the front panel. Restore power and water, run a drain/spin cycle, and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, Torx screwdriver (T20 on some models), pliers, shallow pan, towels, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do error codes F21, F33, and SD mean on Whirlpool Duet and Maytag washers?
F21 indicates a long drain fault — the washer was unable to drain within the expected time (typically 8 minutes). F33 indicates a pump motor fault — the control board is not detecting the pump motor operating correctly. SD is a suds detection code that can also appear when drain issues prevent the suds from clearing properly. All three codes point toward the drain pump or a drain obstruction. Before replacing the pump, check and clean the coin trap filter — a clogged filter is one of the most common causes of F21 errors and clearing it often resolves the code without needing a new pump.
Should I check the coin trap filter before replacing the pump?
Yes — always check the coin trap filter before replacing the pump. On Whirlpool Duet and Maytag front-load washers, the coin trap filter is located inside the lower front access panel, typically behind a small cap or cover. Removing the cap and clearing lint, coins, and debris from the filter restores drain flow and clears F21/F33 errors in many cases without any part replacement needed. If the filter is clear and the pump still humbles or fails to drain, the pump needs replacement.
Why does the replacement pump look different from the original?
Whirlpool redesigned this drain pump assembly during its production lifecycle — the WPW10730972 replacement is physically larger than some of the older 8540024-series pumps it supersedes. Despite looking different, the redesigned pump uses the same hose and electrical connection points and is a direct fit in all compatible models. The larger housing is an intentional design improvement to increase pumping capacity. If the pump looks bigger than what you removed, this is normal and expected — install it in the same way as the original.
What is the difference between W10730972 and WPW10730972?
These are the same drain pump assembly. WPW10730972 is the updated Whirlpool OEM part number that superseded the original W10730972. The W10130913 and 8540024 are also cross-references for earlier versions of this same pump. This aftermarket replacement is compatible with all of these numbers.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and performance of the original WPW10730972 drain pump assembly.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO 22003483 Washer Drive Belt
The XPARTCO 22003483 is an aftermarket replacement drive belt for Whirlpool-built Maytag Atlantis top-load washers. This belt is the mechanical link between the drive motor and the washer's drive system — it's what actually transmits the motor's rotation to spin the drum, so both agitation and spin depend entirely on this belt gripping its pulleys correctly and staying properly tensioned.
Made of black rubber, this belt measures 52 inches long. Over years of use, the belt material gradually hardens and glazes over, becoming smooth and "slick" rather than gripping the pulleys firmly — this degradation can cause the belt to slip under load even before it shows any visible cracking or damage. A worn belt produces a range of symptoms depending on how far the wear has progressed: the washer may pump water but fail to spin, fail to agitate at all, spin noticeably slower than normal, or produce a chirping or slipping noise, especially as the motor shifts between wash and spin modes. It directly replaces WP22003483, WP22003483VP, AP6006365, PS11739438, 22002709, 62608400, 62618130, and 824667.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 22003483 Washer Drive Belt fixes Maytag (Whirlpool-built) top-load washers that pump but won't spin, won't agitate, spin slowly, or make a chirping/slipping noise as the motor shifts modes. 52 inches long, black rubber. Replaces WP22003483, WP22003483VP, AP6006365, PS11739438, 22002709, 62608400, 62618130, 824667. A belt can slip and cause symptoms well before it looks visibly worn — years of use leave the rubber "slick" and unable to grip the pulleys properly, even without visible cracking.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer pumps water but won't spin
Washer won't agitate
Washer spins noticeably slower than it used to
Chirping or slipping noise, especially as the motor shifts between wash and spin modes
Belt that has become glazed, hardened, or "slick" from years of use
Visible cracking, fraying, or glazing on the belt surface
General noise or vibration during the wash or spin cycle
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer drive belt directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP22003483 22003483, 22002709, 62618130, 824667, AP6006365, EAP11739438, WP22003483VP, AWP47150, PD00002551, PS11739438
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This drive belt is compatible with select Maytag Atlantis top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as:
MAV4057AWQ, MAV4057AWW, MAV4500AWW
MAV5000AWQ, MAV5000AWW, MAV5057AWQ, MAV5057AWW, MAV5960AWW
MAV6000AWQ, MAV6000AWW, MAV6057AWQ, MAV6057AWW
MAV6200AWQ, MAV6200AWW, MAV6250AWQ, MAV6250AWW, MAV6257AWQ, MAV6257AWW
MAV6548AWQ, MAV6548AWW, MAV6601AWQ, MAV6601AWW, MAV6650AWW, MAV7000AWQ
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since Whirlpool and Maytag use different belt lengths and profiles across their washer lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement drive belt — transmits motor power to spin the washer drum
Resolves "pumps but won't spin," "won't agitate," "spins slowly," and "chirping/slipping noise" symptoms caused by belt wear
52 inches long, black rubber construction
Rides on three pulleys to transfer motor rotation to the drive system
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original length and profile
Replaces WP22003483, WP22003483VP, AP6006365, PS11739438, 22002709, 62608400, 62618130, and 824667
Compatible with Maytag Atlantis top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
22003483
OEM Part Number
WP22003483
Part Type
Washer Drive Belt
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Maytag Atlantis Top-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Length
52 inches
Material
Rubber
Color
Black
Function
Transmits motor rotation to the drive system to spin the drum
Quantity
1 drive belt
Compatible Brand
Maytag (Whirlpool-built)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically through the rear panel: remove the screws securing the panel to reach the motor and belt area. Loosen the motor's mounting screws so the motor can be pushed toward the drum, releasing tension on the old belt. Slide the old belt off its three pulleys and remove it. Route the new 22003483 belt over the same three pulleys, matching the original path. With the belt in place, gently push the motor away from the drum by hand to apply tension, then tighten the motor's mounting screws while continuing to check belt tightness — the belt should have firm, even tension across all three pulleys with no excess slack. Reinstall the rear panel, restore power, and run a full test cycle through both agitate and spin to confirm smooth, quiet operation with no chirping or slipping. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer makes a chirping noise when it shifts from agitate to spin. Is that the belt?
Yes, this is a documented symptom of a worn belt. One long-term owner traced this exact chirp to a 10-year-old belt that had become "slick" from age — smooth and hardened enough that it briefly slipped on the pulleys as the motor shifted between modes, rather than moving cleanly into position. Replacing the belt resolved the noise completely.
My belt doesn't look cracked or damaged. Could it still be the problem?
Yes. A belt can degrade in ways that aren't obvious at a glance — the rubber can harden and glaze over time, becoming slick and losing its grip on the pulleys even without visible cracking or fraying. If your washer is slipping, chirping, or spinning weakly and the belt has been in service for many years, age-related slickness is a reasonable explanation even if the belt still looks intact.
How do I know if I have the right belt length for my washer?
This belt is 52 inches long and specific to the Maytag Atlantis top-load platform. Whirlpool and Maytag use different belt lengths across other washer models, so always confirm your model number matches the compatibility list, or measure your old belt for comparison, before ordering.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the length, profile, and material of the original WP22003483 drive belt used in compatible Maytag Atlantis top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
Genuine OEM WH03X32217 Washer Motor Pulley
The WH03X32217 is a genuine OEM 1/2 HP motor pulley and nut from GE for GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore, and RCA washers. The pulley mounts on the motor shaft and carries the drive belt that transfers the motor's power to the drum, and the nut secures it to the shaft. A pulley that cracks, wears, or strips its threads can slip on the shaft, squeal, or stop driving the belt, so the drum turns poorly or not at all.
This is a genuine OEM part, not an aftermarket equivalent, so the fit and the shaft connection match the original. This pulley is for the 1/2 HP motor. Washers with the smaller 1/3 HP motor use a different pulley, so match the part before you order.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WH03X32217 Motor Pulley and Nut fixes a GE-built washer whose 1/2 HP motor pulley is cracked, worn, or has stripped threads, causing a loud squeal, belt slipping, or a drum that won't turn. Genuine OEM from GE Appliances. Classic symptom: the motor runs but the drum turns weakly or not at all, often with a squealing or slipping noise.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Loud squealing from the motor and belt area
Drum not turning, or turning weakly, while the motor runs
Cracked, worn, or damaged plastic pulley
Stripped pulley threads or a pulley loose on the motor shaft
Drive belt slipping or wearing quickly
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This motor pulley and nut replaces the following part numbers:
WH03X32217 replaces WH49X25377, WH07X24182, AGE25958, AP7018598, PD00069997, PS16554753
These are GE's earlier numbers for the 1/2 HP motor pulley and nut. If your old pulley or parts diagram shows either, match against this list.
Compatibility
This motor pulley is listed for washers from:
GE
Hotpoint
Kenmore (GE-built)
RCA
Note: This pulley is for washers with a 1/2 HP motor. Washers with a 1/3 HP motor, such as those using WH03X32218 or WH07X24695, use a different pulley. No model list is published for this part, so confirm fit by matching the number on your old pulley or your parts diagram against the Replaces list, or contact our support team with your model number and we'll verify before you order.
Key Features
Genuine OEM GE motor pulley and nut, not an aftermarket equivalent
For washers with a 1/2 HP motor
Mounts on the motor shaft to carry the drive belt to the drum
Restores a secure belt drive and eliminates pulley slipping and squeal
Simple replacement, typically 15–60 minutes with hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH03X32217
OEM Part Number
WH03X32217
Part Type
Washer Motor Pulley and Nut
Condition
Genuine OEM
Manufacturer
GE Appliances
Motor Size
1/2 HP
Application
Select GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore & RCA Washers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power Before Installing Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before starting. Following your model's service guide, remove the panel needed to reach the motor and drive belt. Release the belt from the old pulley, then remove the nut holding the pulley to the motor shaft and take the pulley off. Fit the new pulley on the shaft, secure it with the nut, and refit the belt. Check that the belt sits correctly and is not worn, since a worn belt or transmission pulley can cause the same symptoms. Replace the panel, restore power and water, and run a short cycle to confirm the drum turns smoothly. Common tools are pliers, screwdrivers, and a socket set.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer squeals and the drum won't turn. Is this the part I need?
It can be. A cracked or worn motor pulley can slip and squeal. Inspect the pulley for cracks, wear, or damaged threads, and check the belt and transmission pulley at the same time, since they can fail together.
Is this the right pulley for a 1/2 HP or a 1/3 HP motor?
This one is for the 1/2 HP motor. Washers with a 1/3 HP motor use a different pulley, so check your parts diagram or contact our support team with your model number.
Does it come with the nut?
GE lists this part as a motor pulley and nut. Contact us if you need to confirm what's in the package for your order.
Is this a genuine GE part?
Yes. This is a genuine OEM part from GE Appliances, not an aftermarket equivalent.
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XPARTCO W11168740 Washer Water Valve (Cold Side)
The XPARTCO W11168740 is an aftermarket replacement cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers, located on the top back of the cabinet where the hot and cold supply hoses connect. Unlike its companion hot-side valve (sold separately as W11168743, a single-solenoid design), this cold valve uses two internal solenoid coils in one blue-bodied housing. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes the appropriate solenoid to open the water path; once the correct level is reached, it closes again.
Because it's a dedicated cold-only valve, a failure here produces a distinctive symptom: cold-only fills stop working, slow down dramatically, or don't stop when they should, while hot fills (governed by the separate hot valve) continue working independently. Rated 120V, 60Hz, with push-on outlet connections sealed by rubber grommets. Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn seal at the outlet connection. It directly replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, and PS12348073.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11168740 Washer Water Valve (Cold Side) fixes Whirlpool-built top-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, keeps filling and won't stop, leaks, or throws a fill-related error code — while hot water fills normally. Blue-bodied, 2-solenoid cold-only valve, 120V, 60Hz, push-on outlet with rubber grommets. Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, PS12348073. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11168743.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally
Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to
Washer keeps filling with cold water and won't stop, leading to overfill
Water leaking at the cold connection point
Fill-related error code displayed on the control panel
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cold wash or cold rinse cycles specifically affected while other cycles run fine
Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11168740, WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, AWP43125, EAP12348073, PD00038781, PS12348073
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built top-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool top-load washers — WTW series
Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Select Kenmore top-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform
Verified model numbers include: WTW5500XL0, WTW5500XL2, and WTW5640XW3.
Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve, identifiable by its blue body and two internal solenoids. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11168743 — a single-solenoid design. The two are not interchangeable. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement dedicated cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built top-load washers
Two internal solenoid coils in one blue-bodied housing, identifiable at a glance from the single-solenoid hot valve
Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "won't stop filling," and "leaking at the connection" symptoms caused by valve failure
Rated 120V, 60Hz
Push-on outlet connections sealed with rubber grommets
Approximately 3-3/8"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-3/8"H
Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required
Replaces WPW10240949, W10240949, W10921514, 33390069, 4546379, AP6285450, PD00038781, and PS12348073
Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW11168740
OEM Part Number
W11168740
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold Side
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Top-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Voltage
120V
Frequency
60 Hz
Solenoids
2 (dedicated cold water function)
Color
Blue / Teal / Black
Material
Plastic and metal
Outlet Connection
Push-on with rubber grommets
Dimensions
Approx. 3-3/8"L x 3-1/2"W x 2-3/8"H
Companion Part
W11168743 (hot water valve, sold separately)
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply hose from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the screws securing the top panel (a 1/4" nut driver or socket handles most models), then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit next to each other and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the old cold valve, disconnect the push-on outlet hose (check the rubber grommet for wear and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked), remove the two mounting screws holding the valve, and pull it free — leave the hot valve (W11168743) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11168740 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, reconnect the electrical connector(s), and press the outlet hose back onto its fitting with the grommet properly seated. Reattach the cold water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm cold water fills at the normal rate, and stops when it should, with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part?
Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Since your washer uses separate hot and cold valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing while hot cycles are unaffected, this cold-side valve is the correct part to replace.
How can I tell this valve apart from the hot-side valve just by looking at it?
This cold valve has a blue body and two internal solenoid coils, while the companion hot-side valve (W11168743) is a single-solenoid design. If you're staring at the old valve trying to confirm which one you're removing, the color and solenoid count are a quick visual check.
Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time?
Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11168740 valve alone is sufficient. Some people choose to replace both while the top panel is already off, especially on an older washer, but it isn't required.
My washer keeps filling with cold water and won't stop. Is that dangerous?
It can lead to overflow and water damage if left unaddressed, so it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if this happens rather than waiting. A valve that won't stop filling usually means a worn internal seal is no longer sealing shut when the solenoid de-energizes, letting water continue flowing. This valve is the correct replacement for that symptom.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dual-solenoid design, connection type, and dimensions of the original W11168740 cold water valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-load washers.
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DC97-18682D Washer Genuine Drain Hose Assembly – Compatible with Samsung Washers
Product Description
Maintain proper water drainage with the DC97-18682D Washer Genuine Drain Hose Assembly. This OEM replacement hose is designed to channel used water safely from your washer to the household drain system. A damaged or clogged drain hose can cause leaks, standing water, or drainage errors. Replacing it with this genuine part restores dependable washer performance and prevents messy water issues.
Replaces Part Numbers
DC97-18682D, DC97-18682B, DC97-18682C, DC97-18682E, PD00070138, EAP16556783, AP7018854, PS16556783.
Compatibility
This genuine drain hose assembly is compatible with select Samsung front-load washers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): Samsung WF42H5000AW, WF45K6500AW, WF56H9100AW.
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Genuine OEM Replacement – Designed specifically for Samsung washers
💧 Reliable Drainage – Ensures proper water flow and prevents backup or leaks
💰 Cost-Effective Solution – Avoids costly water damage and washer breakdowns
🛠️ Easy Installation – Flexible design for quick fit with standard tools
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves leaks, clogs, or drain-related error codes
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DC97-18682D
Component Type: Washer Drain Hose Assembly
Material: Heavy-duty rubber and reinforced plastic fittings
Mounting: Direct fit replacement with factory connections
Operating Conditions: Standard residential washer use
Compliance: Genuine Samsung OEM part
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Pliers, screwdriver (if clamps are included)
⚠️ Safety First: Always disconnect power and water supply before beginning any washer repair.
Steps:
Turn off water supply and unplug washer.
Locate drain hose at the back of the washer.
Remove hose clamps securing the old drain hose.
Detach old hose from washer and household drain.
Connect new DC97-18682D drain hose to washer outlet.
Secure with clamps and ensure a snug fit into the drain standpipe.
Restore water, reconnect power, and test for leaks.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–20 minutes
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🛠️ Trusted Appliance Parts Supplier
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Prevent leaks and drainage problems — Add to Cart Now for a reliable, factory-approved repair!
WP3392519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse
The WP3392519 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing next to the blower fan. This fuse is a one-time safety device: as long as the dryer stays within its normal operating temperature, it does nothing at all, but the instant internal temperatures climb high enough — almost always from restricted airflow — the fuse permanently opens the circuit and cuts power to the dryer. That's why a blown thermal fuse produces such a specific symptom: the dryer won't start at all, with no lights, no tumble, and no response, even though the outlet has power.
This fuse opens at approximately 196°F (91°C) and terminates in two 3/16" wire terminals for a direct plug-in fit. Unlike a resettable thermostat, this thermal fuse cannot be reset once it blows — it must be replaced. A blown thermal fuse is almost always a symptom rather than a random failure: restricted exhaust venting is the leading cause, since trapped heat is exactly what the fuse is designed to react to. A shorted heating element or a failed regulating thermostat can also cause the dryer to run hot enough to blow the fuse. It directly replaces 3392519, WP3392519VP, AP6008325, 3388651, 694511, ET401, PS11741460, EAP11741460, AH11741460, EA11741460, PD00002311, G4AP0500, and 80005.
Quick Answer
The WP3392519 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Jenn-Air, and Amana dryers that won't start at all — no lights, no tumble, no response to any button. Opens at approximately 196°F (91°C). Two 3/16" wire terminals. Replaces 3392519, WP3392519VP, AP6008325, 3388651, 694511, ET401, PS11741460, EAP11741460, AH11741460, EA11741460, PD00002311, G4AP0500, 80005. Always inspect and clean the dryer venting when replacing this fuse — a blown fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and installing a new fuse without fixing the vent will likely blow it again.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dryer won't start at all — no lights, no tumble, no response to any button
Dryer that stopped working suddenly, especially after running unusually hot
Dryer runs a short time then shuts off completely and won't restart
Repeated blown fuses on a dryer with a known venting or airflow restriction
Clothes coming out extremely hot right before the dryer stopped working
Dryer that recently smelled like burning or overheating before failing
Continuity test shows an open circuit across the old fuse
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dryer thermal fuse directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
3392519, WP3392519, 3388651, WE4X857, G4AP0500, 6L4101, 6L4101091C, ET401, 3388651, 694511, 80005, AWP47582, PD00002311, EAP11741460, AP6008325, PS11741460
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This thermal fuse is compatible with select Whirlpool-built dryers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool electric and gas dryers — WED, WGD series
Maytag electric and gas dryers — MEDC, MGDC series (select Whirlpool-built models)
Kenmore dryers (select Whirlpool-built models)
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana dryers (select models)
Roper, Estate, Inglis, and Crosley dryers (select models)
Verified model numbers include: MEDC465HW0, MGDC465HW0, WED4850HW0, WED4950HW0, WED49STBW1, WET4024HW0, WET4124HW0, WGD4850HW0, WGD4950HW0, YMEDC465HW0, YWED4850HW0, and YWET4024HW0.
Note: This fuse also fits select commercial and stacked washer/dryer combination units on the Whirlpool platform. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified opening temperature and terminal configuration
One-time safety device that cuts power if the dryer overheats
Opens at approximately 196°F (91°C)
Resolves "won't start at all," "stopped working suddenly," and "clothes came out extremely hot before it died" symptoms caused by a blown fuse
Two 3/16" wire terminal connectors for a direct plug-in electrical fit
Mounts to the blower housing next to the blower fan
Replaces 3392519, WP3392519VP, AP6008325, 3388651, 694511, ET401, PS11741460, EAP11741460, AH11741460, EA11741460, PD00002311, G4AP0500, and 80005
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Jenn-Air, and Amana dryers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WP3392519
Part Type
Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cut-Off)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Opening Temperature
Approx. 196°F (91°C)
Location
Blower housing, next to the blower fan
Terminals
2 (3/16" wire terminals)
Resettable
No — one-time use, must be replaced once blown
Dimensions
Approx. 2" x 1/2"
Repair Difficulty
Medium — basic disassembly required
Quantity
1 thermal fuse
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Jenn-Air, Amana, Estate, Inglis, Crosley
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — Inspect And Clean The Venting Before Reassembling Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically through the rear panel: remove the screws securing the panel to reach the blower housing where the fuse is mounted. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the wire terminals from the old fuse. Remove the mounting screw holding the fuse in place and pull it free, disconnecting both wire terminals. Before installing the new fuse, test it for continuity with a multimeter to confirm it's good out of the box, and test the old one to confirm it's actually blown (no continuity) rather than assuming. This is the most important step: fully inspect and clean the dryer's exhaust vent, from the lint trap housing all the way to the exterior vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed sections, or excessive length. A blown thermal fuse is a symptom of restricted airflow, and skipping this step means the new fuse is likely to blow again. Install the new WP3392519 in the same mounting position, reconnect both wire terminals, and secure the mounting screw. Reinstall the rear panel, restore power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal heating and shutoff behavior. Tools needed: Phillips or nut driver (model-dependent), multimeter, vent brush or vacuum attachment for cleaning ductwork, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dryer has no power at all and the lights won't turn on. Is this the thermal fuse?
It's a strong possibility. When this thermal fuse blows, it cuts power broadly enough that the console lights and control panel can go completely dark, not just the heating function — that's a normal result of how this fuse is wired into the circuit. Before replacing it, confirm the outlet has power and the breaker hasn't tripped, then check the fuse for continuity with a multimeter. If it shows no continuity, this fuse is the correct fix, though it's also worth checking the exhaust ducting since that's the most common underlying cause.
I replaced the fuse and it blew again. What's going on?
This is a strong sign that the underlying cause — almost always restricted airflow — was never addressed. Thermal fuses don't fail from age; they blow because the dryer overheated. If a new fuse keeps blowing, thoroughly inspect and clean the entire exhaust path from the lint trap housing to the outside vent hood, checking for lint buildup, crushed or kinked ductwork, or a vent run that's too long. If airflow checks out and the fuse still blows, have the heating element and cycling thermostat checked as well, since a component stuck in the "on" position can also drive excess heat.
Can I just reset the thermal fuse instead of replacing it?
No. Unlike a cycling thermostat, this thermal fuse is a one-time safety device — once it blows, its internal circuit is permanently broken and it cannot be reset or repaired. Replacement is the only option.
My clothes came out extremely hot right before the dryer died. Is that related?
Yes, this is a classic warning sign. Clothes coming out unusually hot indicates the dryer was already running hotter than normal, which is exactly the condition that leads to a blown thermal fuse. If you noticed this before the dryer stopped working, it strongly points to a ventilation or airflow problem that should be fully addressed before running the dryer again.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original opening temperature, terminal configuration, and mounting position of the thermal fuse originally installed in your dryer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W11688994 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot)
The XPARTCO W11688994 is an aftermarket replacement hot water inlet valve compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers. The hot water inlet valve is mounted at the back of the washer where the hot water supply hose connects. When the washer's control board calls for hot water during a wash cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, letting hot water flow into the tub or detergent dispenser. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely as the correct fill level is reached.
When this valve fails, the washer may not fill with hot water at all, fill very slowly with hot water, fail to deliver hot or warm wash temperatures (even when selected), continuously drip water into the tub even when off, or display fill-related error codes. Construction is red and white plastic with a metal solenoid coil, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L, with 1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose. It directly replaces W11688994, W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, and AP7218602. Often replaced as a pair with the cold water inlet valve (W11688995, sold separately). Installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11688994 Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot) fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Kenmore front-load washers that aren't filling with hot water, fill slowly with hot water, can't reach hot or warm wash temperatures, or have continuous water dripping into the tub when off. Red/white plastic with metal coil, 1/2" NPT thread, ~3"H x 4"W x 3"L. Replaces W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, AP7218602. Often paired with the cold water valve (W11688995, sold separately).
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with hot water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Washer filling slowly with hot water — valve partially clogged or weak solenoid
No hot or warm water in selected wash temperatures — only cold water flowing in
Hot wash cycle running cool — hot valve not delivering normal flow
Water continuously dripping into the tub when the washer is off — hot valve stuck open or not fully closing
Water leaks at the hot valve body — internal seal failure
Wash cycles taking much longer than normal due to slow hot fill
Fill-related error codes when hot fill is required by the selected cycle
Replaces Part Numbers
This hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11688994, W11316255, W11036928, W11486360, 4983330, AP7218602, AWP46795, EAP17216729, FIX17216729, OEM21655815, PD00085626, PS17216729.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select front-load washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool front-load washers — 7MWFC9822HC1, 8TWFC6810LW0, WFC682CLW0, WFC6810LW0, WFC9820HC0, WFC9820HW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW560CHW3, WFW560CHW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5605MC0, WFW5605MW0 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW5620HW0, WFW5620HW1, WFW5620HW2, WFW5620HW3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW6620HC0, WFW6620HC1, WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW8620HC0, WFW8620HC1, WFW8620HC2, WFW8620HC3, WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0, WFW8620HW1, WFW8620HW2, WFW8620HW3, WFW8620HW4 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW862CHC0, WFW862CHC1, WFW862CHC2, WFW862CHC3 series
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW9620HBK1, WFW9620HBK2, WFW9620HBK3, WFW9620HC0, WFW9620HC1, WFW9620HC3, WFW9620HW0, WFW9620HW1, WFW9620HW2, WFW9620HW3 series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW5630HC0-HC3, MHW5630HW0-HW3, MHW6630HC0-HC3, MHW6630HW0-HW3, MHW8630HC0-HC4, MHW8630HW0-HW4 series
Amana front-load washers — NFW5800HW0, NFW5800HW1, NFW5800HW2, NFW5800HW3, NFW5800HW4 and related models
Inglis front-load washers — IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4 and related models
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Kenmore / Sears front-load washers — select Whirlpool-built models
Note: This is the hot water inlet valve (typically red). The matching cold water inlet valve is part number W11688995 (typically blue). When you replace one valve, it's a good practice to replace the other at the same time since they're the same age, both are accessible during the same repair, and the second valve will likely fail in the near term. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Controls the flow of hot water into the washer during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for hot water and closes the moment the call is dropped
1/2" NPT threaded inlet for standard washer supply hose connection
Dimensions: approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Red and white plastic body with metal solenoid coil — heat-resistant construction designed for hot water cycle pressure and temperature
Replaces W11036928, W11316255, W11486360, AP7218602, and PD00085626
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, and Kenmore front-load washers
Often replaced together with the cold water inlet valve (W11688995, sold separately) as a paired repair
Quick DIY repair — installs in 10–15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPW11688994
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (Hot)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool platform)
Water Type
Hot (paired cold valve is W11688995)
Inlet Thread
1/2" NPT
Dimensions
Approximately 3" H x 4" W x 3" L
Color
Red / White
Material
Plastic / Metal (heat-resistant)
Often Paired With
Cold Water Inlet Valve (W11688995, sold separately)
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Inglis, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power and shut off both the hot and cold water supplies at the wall before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply hoses and will spill when disconnected. Important: if the washer has just been running a hot cycle, allow the hot supply hose and valve to cool before handling — hot water can scald. Pull the washer out from the wall to access the back. Remove the three 1/4" screws securing the rear edge of the top cover, push the top cover slightly back, and lift it off. Locate the inlet valves at the back of the washer — the hot valve is typically red. Disconnect the hot water supply hose from the valve (water will drip — towels). Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting. Unplug the small electrical connector from the valve solenoid. Remove the single 3/16" mounting screw (or similar hardware, model-dependent) holding the valve in place, and disconnect any internal water hoses from the valve outlet (channel-lock pliers may help with hose clamps). Install the new W11688994 valve in the same position with the same orientation, reconnect the internal water hoses and electrical connector, and secure the mounting screw. Reconnect the hot supply hose at the wall, restore water and power, and run a test cycle on a hot or warm setting to confirm normal hot water fill with no leaks. Tip: while the top cover is off, this is the ideal time to also replace the cold water valve (W11688995) — they share the same access and lifespan. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver, 3/16" nut driver, adjustable wrench or pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer isn't filling with hot water — is the hot valve the problem?
Likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed hot water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the hot water supply at the wall is turned on and your home actually has hot water at that connection (test the faucet nearby); 2) check the supply hose for kinks or pinches; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the back of the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean, but the washer still won't get hot water, the W11688994 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue.
My washer fills but my hot wash isn't actually hot — could it still be this valve?
Yes — when the hot inlet valve is partially failed (opening but not fully, or opening only briefly), the washer may complete its fill cycle by drawing extra cold water to compensate, but the resulting mix is much cooler than the selected wash temperature should be. If you've confirmed your home's hot water is hot, the supply hose is good, and you're still ending up with lukewarm "hot" washes, the hot valve is a likely cause. Replacing it restores proper hot water delivery and accurate wash temperatures.
Should I replace the cold water valve at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The hot and cold inlet valves are essentially identical components installed side by side at the back of the washer — they're the same age, are exposed to the same wash cycle stress, and have the same expected service life. When one fails, the other is typically not far behind. Since the top cover is already off and both valves are accessible during the same repair, replacing both saves you a second teardown later. The matching cold water valve is part number W11688995 (blue, sold separately) and is also available as a paired kit.
My washer is dripping water into the tub even when it's off — could the hot valve be the cause?
Yes, that's a classic sign of a failed inlet valve. When the solenoid wears out or debris keeps the valve from sealing fully closed, water leaks past it at low rates and drips into the tub even with the washer powered off — especially noticeable as a slow puddle forming over a day or two. Since both the hot and cold valves feed into the tub, you'll want to identify which one is leaking: shut off the cold water supply at the wall and check if dripping continues. If it stops, the cold valve is at fault; if it continues, this hot valve is the cause. Replacing the W11688994 will resolve a leaking hot valve.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, electrical specifications, 1/2" NPT thread, and solenoid function of the original W11688994 hot water inlet valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, and Kenmore front-load washers.
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WPW10327249 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve
The WPW10327249 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers, mounted on the right-hand side of the dishwasher's interior behind the front kick plate. This valve regulates the flow of water into the appliance during each cycle, opening to admit water from the household supply and closing once the correct amount has entered, which is essential to proper filling and efficient operation.
Over time, mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve body, or general electrical wear in the solenoid, can cause the valve to fail. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the dishwasher not filling with water at all, water filling inconsistently or too slowly, leaking, or overfilling. It directly replaces AP6019618, W10316814, W10327249, W11130743, WPW10327249VP, 3015511, PS11752927, and W11669945.
Quick Answer
The WPW10327249 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Valve fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers that won't fill with water, fill inconsistently, leak, or overfill. Located on the right-hand side of the dishwasher interior. Replaces W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927. While the dishwasher is disassembled for this repair, consider also checking or replacing the water supply adapter (W10685193), since it's in the same area and easy to inspect at the same time.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with water at all
Water filling inconsistently or too slowly
Dishwasher leaking near the valve area
Dishwasher overfilling
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10327249, W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select Whirlpool dishwashers, and also fits select Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers built on the Whirlpool platform, including model numbers such as WDT750SAHZ, WDTA50SAHZ, WDT710PAYM, MDB4949SDM, and MDB4949SHZ.
Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since similar-looking dishwasher water valves can vary in size or shape between models. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow rate
Regulates water flow into the dishwasher during each fill cycle
Resolves "won't fill," "fills inconsistently," "leaking," and "overfilling" symptoms caused by valve failure
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces W10327249, W10316814, W11130743, 3015511, WPW10327249VP, AP6019618, AWP49829, PD00002758, PS11752927
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Maytag dishwashers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Novice-friendly repair with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10327249
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
Whirlpool
Location
Right-hand side of the dishwasher interior, behind the front kick plate
Color
Blue
Water Line Connections
Two 3/8" lines
Repair Difficulty
Medium — basic appliance repair skills
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher And Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the water supply at the shutoff valve located behind the dishwasher before beginning. Wear work gloves. Remove the bottom front kick plate by pulling outward on the two clips located at either side of the bottom panel. Locate the water inlet valve on the right-hand side of the dishwasher interior. Disconnect the two 3/8" water lines from the old valve. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the valve in place, and carefully pull the old valve away from the dishwasher. Insert the new WPW10327249 into the dishwasher, making sure it's securely positioned, and secure it with the mounting screws. Reconnect both water lines to the new valve. While you're in this area, it's worth inspecting the water supply adapter for wear, since it's a related part in the same location that's easy to check while everything is already accessible. Turn the water supply back on and plug the dishwasher back into the power source. Run a test cycle to confirm the dishwasher fills correctly with no leaks. Tools needed: multi-screwdriver, standard pliers, adjustable wrench, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water at all. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is the most direct symptom of a failed water inlet valve. Since this valve is what admits water from your household supply into the dishwasher, a solenoid failure or internal blockage can prevent any water from entering at all, stopping the wash cycle from proceeding.
Should I check or replace the water supply adapter while I have the dishwasher open?
It's a reasonable idea, since the water supply adapter is a related component located in the same general area and is easy to inspect while you already have access. It doesn't need to be replaced automatically, but checking its condition at the same time can save you from needing to open the dishwasher back up again soon after if it's also showing wear.
My dishwasher is leaking near the valve. Could hard water be a factor?
Yes, mineral and sediment buildup from hard water is a common contributor to valve failure over time, since it interferes with the valve's ability to seal and shut off properly. Using a dishwasher cleaner periodically to help reduce limescale buildup can support the longevity of the new valve, though it isn't a substitute for replacing a valve that has already failed.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and connection type of the water inlet valve originally installed in your dishwasher.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout