XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch
The XPARTCO WH12X955 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units (including GE spacemaker and stacked laundry models). The lid switch is a safety component mounted inside the washer lid — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and signals the control that it's safe for the machine to start, agitate, and spin. When the lid closes, the switch activates and the washer can run through its full cycle. If the lid switch fails, the washer typically won't spin or drain, may not start or agitate at all, and clothes are left sitting in water.
This is a complete lid switch assembly with an integrated wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wire harness that routes from the lid down into the washer cabinet). It directly replaces WH12X955, WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363. Installation involves accessing the lid itself — the switch mounts inside the lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units where the washer won't spin, won't drain, won't start, or won't agitate — leaving clothes sitting in water. Complete lid switch assembly with wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions 1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D. Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, OEM6137363. Classic symptom: washer won't spin or drain.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom
Washer won't drain — clothes left sitting in water at the end of the cycle
Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid
Washer won't agitate — the machine won't advance past the fill phase
Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is
Lid switch body cracked from the lid being closed hard over time
Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling that the lid is closed
Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position
Broken or frayed lid switch wiring harness
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH12X955, 278666, AGE25981, AH270219, EA270219, PD00030733, EAP270219, PS270219, AP2045786, WH12X0955, EXPWH12X955
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select washer/dryer combo units (spacemaker and stacked laundry models) from the following brands:
GE washer/dryer combo units — spacemaker and stacked laundry center models
GE Spacemaker washers — select models
Hotpoint washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
RCA washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
Kenmore / Sears washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
Note: This lid switch is specific to GE washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units — it is NOT the same switch used on standalone GE top-load washers, which use different lid switch part numbers. Always search by your appliance model number to confirm this part fits before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Lid switch safety assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and allows the washer to start, agitate, spin, and drain when the lid is shut
Resolves the classic "won't spin" and "won't drain" symptoms of lid switch failure
Complete assembly with integrated wiring harness and ground wire
Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wiring harness)
Mounts inside the washer lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw
Snap-in switch design with connector — no wiring modifications required
Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY-friendly repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH12X955
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Washer/Dryer Combo & Spacemaker Units (GE platform)
Dimensions
1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D
Includes
Lid switch, wiring harness, ground wire
Function
Prevents washer spin/agitation when lid is open
Location
Inside the washer lid
Mounting
Two screws + separate ground wire screw
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — The Lid Comes Off Disconnect power at the outlet or breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges. This repair requires removing the washer lid to access the switch. Open the lid, then push it toward the back of the machine to release the plastic clips at the front that hold the lid up. Slowly lift the lid at the front — you'll see the lid switch is the only thing still connecting the lid to the washer body. Confirm the power is off, then unclip the electrical connector that joins the lid switch harness to the washer's wiring (it's typically a molex-style connector). With the connector released, you can carry the lid to a workbench or flat surface to work on it comfortably. On the underside/inside of the lid, remove the two screws on the right-hand side that hold the switch in place, then remove the screw that secures the ground wire to the inside of the lid. Lift out the old switch. The new WH12X955 switch snaps into place — seat it, reinstall the two mounting screws, and reattach the ground wire with its screw. Route the new harness cable through the same path as the old one; you can gently lift the retaining clips with a flathead screwdriver to slide the new cable through. Reconnect the electrical connector, set the lid back into position, and press it down until the front plastic clips engage. Restore power and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer agitates, drains, and spins. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, flathead screwdriver, work gloves. (Tip: if you drop the ground wire nut inside the cabinet, a magnet on a stick makes retrieval easy.)
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't spin or drain — is the lid switch the cause?
Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body, worn internal contacts, or broken wiring), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin and drain phases as a safety measure — leaving your clothes sitting in water. On many GE washer/dryer combos, a failed lid switch will also prevent the machine from starting or agitating at all. If your washer fills but goes no further, or completes the wash but leaves clothes soaked, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is depressed.
Why is this switch 16" long?
The 16" dimension is the length of the wiring harness, not the switch body itself. The switch mounts inside the washer lid, and its harness has to route from the lid, through the hinge area, down into the washer cabinet to reach the main wiring connector. That's why the assembly comes with a long attached cable — and it's also why this repair involves removing the lid to access everything. The switch body itself is compact at roughly 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W.
Does this fit my standalone GE top-load washer?
Probably not. The WH12X955 is specifically used on GE washer/dryer combo units and spacemaker/stacked laundry models. Standalone GE top-load washers use different lid switch part numbers. Because the lid switch design and mounting vary significantly across GE's washer lineup, always search by your appliance model number to confirm the correct part before ordering. If your unit is a standalone top-loader, contact our support team with your model number and we'll identify the right lid switch for it.
Do I really have to take the lid off to install this?
On most compatible models, yes — the lid switch mounts inside the lid itself, so you'll need to release the lid from the washer body to reach the two mounting screws and the ground wire screw. The good news is that the lid comes off fairly easily: push it toward the back to release the front plastic clips, then lift it slowly, unclip the electrical connector, and carry the lid to a comfortable work surface. Working on the lid off the machine is far easier than trying to reach into a cramped laundry closet. Just be sure power is disconnected before unclipping the connector.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D), harness and ground wire configuration, connector, mounting, and lid-detection function of the original WH12X955 lid switch used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units.
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XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084
The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle.
Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers
Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid
Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement
Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models
Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal
Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage
Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut
Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position
Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands:
Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more)
Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series)
KitchenAid top-load washers (select models)
Roper top-load washers (select models)
Estate top-load washers (select models)
Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Amana top-load washers (select models)
Magic Chef top-load washers (select models)
Crosley top-load washers (select models)
Admiral top-load washers (select models)
Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open
Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure
Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction
Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP
Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H
3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire
Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer
One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models
Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61
Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
8318084
OEM Part Number
WP8318084
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load)
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform)
Voltage
125–250V
Frequency
50–60 Hz
Motor Rating
1/2 HP
Dimensions
3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H
Terminals
3 flat terminals + green grounding wire
Color
Gray / White
Material
Plastic housing
Location
Under the control panel, top rear left corner
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem?
Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated.
Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell?
This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician.
What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084?
These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch.
Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer?
No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
3W40025L Genuine LG OEM Dishwasher Micro Switch – Compatible with LG Dishwashers
Product Description
Restore proper operation to your dishwasher with the 3W40025L Genuine LG OEM Dishwasher Micro Switch. This small but essential component detects door position or button activations, ensuring cycles start and stop correctly. A failed micro switch can cause the dishwasher not to run, stop mid-cycle, or display error codes. Replacing it with this genuine LG part restores dependable performance and safety.
Replaces Part Numbers
3W40025L, D3V-16G-1C25, PD00035953, EAP5574491, AP5650845 PS5574491.
Compatibility
This micro switch is compatible with select LG dishwashers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): LG LDF7774ST, LDF8764ST, and LDF6810ST.
Always verify your dishwasher’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 OEM Replacement – Genuine LG part for reliable performance
🔒 Cycle Safety – Ensures proper door detection and cycle control
💰 Cost-Effective OEM Part – Built to last with factory-tested quality
🛠️ Easy to Install – Small component, quick replacement with basic tools
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves dishwashers not starting, stopping mid-cycle, or showing error codes
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: 3W40025L
Component Type: Dishwasher Micro Switch, 16A 125/250VAC
Material: High-durability plastic housing with electrical contacts
Mounting: Direct replacement switch with snap-in or screw mount
Operating Conditions: Designed for standard dishwasher use
Compliance: Genuine LG OEM certified
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, needle-nose pliers
⚠️ Safety First: Always disconnect the dishwasher from power before starting repairs.
Steps:
Disconnect power supply to dishwasher.
Access control panel or door latch assembly (depending on model).
Locate and remove the faulty micro switch.
Install the new 3W40025L switch and reconnect wiring.
Reassemble the control panel or door latch assembly.
Restore power and test dishwasher operation.
⏱️ Time Required: 15–20 minutes
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🛠️ Trusted Appliance Parts Supplier
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Get your dishwasher running properly again — Add to Cart Now for a genuine, factory-approved fix!
XPARTCO XPDC60X5-450R Dual Run Capacitor (60/5 MFD, 450V, Round)
The XPARTCO XPDC60X5-450R is a universal dual run capacitor for central air conditioners, heat pumps, and condensing units. A run capacitor works alongside a single-phase AC motor to keep it running efficiently once it's started, boosting torque and correcting the phase of the current feeding the motor's windings. This is a dual capacitor, meaning it combines two separate capacitors — one for the compressor, one for the condenser fan motor — into a single three-terminal can, which is why nearly every residential outdoor AC unit uses exactly this style of component to run both motors from one part.
Rated 60 MFD for the compressor circuit and 5 MFD for the fan motor circuit, at 450VAC, in a round aluminum can housing. Because a capacitor's voltage rating is a ceiling rather than a fixed match, this 450V-rated capacitor can safely replace an original capacitor rated 370V or 440V — going higher on voltage is always safe, going lower is not. Over time, the dielectric material inside a run capacitor breaks down from heat cycling and electrical stress, causing it to lose capacitance or fail outright. A failing dual capacitor produces a very recognizable set of symptoms: the outdoor unit hums but the compressor or fan won't start, the fan spins slowly or needs a manual push to get going, the system trips the breaker, or the capacitor can itself is visibly bulging, domed, or leaking oily residue at the top.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO XPDC60X5-450R Dual Run Capacitor fixes central air conditioners and heat pumps where the outdoor unit hums but won't start, the compressor or fan motor won't run, the fan spins slowly or needs a manual push, the breaker trips, or the capacitor can is visibly bulged or leaking. 60 MFD (compressor) + 5 MFD (fan) dual capacitor, 450VAC, round, 3-terminal. Universal fit for equipment originally speced at 370V or 440V, since a higher voltage rating is always a safe upgrade. Capacitors store a dangerous electrical charge even after power is disconnected — always discharge before handling.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Outdoor AC unit hums but the compressor won't start
Condenser fan won't spin, or spins slowly and needs a manual push to get going
System trips the breaker shortly after starting
AC blows warm air because the compressor isn't running
Repeated clicking sound from the contactor as it tries and fails to start the motor
Capacitor can visibly bulging, domed on top, or leaking oily residue
System that used to start slowly and has now stopped starting altogether
Burning smell from the outdoor unit's electrical compartment
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
XPDC60X5-450R
This is a universal component rather than a single-manufacturer part, so the specific OEM number your HVAC system's label references will vary by brand (Goodman, Trane, Carrier, Rheem, York, Lennox, Amana, and others). This capacitor is a correct replacement for any dual run capacitor matching the 60 MFD / 5 MFD rating with a voltage rating of 450V or lower. If you have your original part number, contact our support team and we will verify compatibility before you order.
Compatibility
This dual run capacitor is a universal replacement compatible with central air conditioners, heat pumps, and condensing units across all major HVAC brands, wherever the original capacitor is rated:
60 MFD (compressor) + 5 MFD (fan motor)
370V, 440V, or 450V (this capacitor's 450V rating exceeds and safely replaces either lower rating)
Round can shape with 3 terminals
Note: The MFD (microfarad) rating must match your original capacitor exactly on both sides — do not substitute a different MFD value for either the compressor or fan side. Voltage rating, on the other hand, can be equal to or higher than the original (450V safely replaces 370V or 440V), but never lower. Can shape (round vs. oval) affects only physical fit inside your unit's electrical compartment, not performance. If you're unsure of your original capacitor's specifications, they're printed directly on its can — contact our support team if you'd like help confirming compatibility.
Key Features
Universal dual run capacitor — supports both the compressor and condenser fan motor from one component
60 MFD compressor rating + 5 MFD fan motor rating in a single 3-terminal can
450VAC rating — a safe upgrade replacement for equipment originally speced at 370V or 440V
Round aluminum can construction
Resolves "hums but won't start," "fan spins slowly," "trips the breaker," and "bulging or leaking can" symptoms caused by capacitor failure
1/4" quick-connect terminals for a direct plug-on fit to standard HVAC wiring
50/60Hz rated
Safety approved: CQC, VDE, TÜV, and CL; built to GB/T 3667 and EN 60252 standards
Built to meet or exceed industry-standard specifications for this capacitor class
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPDC60X5-450R
Part Type
Dual Run Capacitor
Condition
New — Universal Replacement Part
Capacitance — Compressor
60 MFD (µF)
Capacitance — Fan Motor
5 MFD (µF)
Voltage Rating
450VAC
Shape
Round
Terminals
3 (1/4" quick-connect)
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Tolerance
±5%
Construction Type
Polypropylene film capacitor
Operating Temperature Range
-40°C to 70°C (-40°F to +158°F)
Safety Approvals
CQC, VDE, TÜV, CL
Approval Standard
GB/T 3667, EN 60252
Application
Central Air Conditioners, Heat Pumps, Condensing Units
Quantity
1 dual run capacitor
Compatible Brands
Universal — all major HVAC brands
Installation Notes
⚠️ Danger — Capacitors Store A Dangerous Electrical Charge Shut off power to the outdoor unit at the disconnect box and at the breaker before beginning. A capacitor stores an electrical charge even after power has been disconnected, and that charge can deliver a serious or fatal shock. Before touching any terminal, discharge the capacitor by shorting each pair of terminals together (C-to-Fan, C-to-Herm, and Fan-to-Herm) using an insulated-handle screwdriver, or by using a proper capacitor discharge tool with a resistor. Never short the terminals with a bare metal tool held with your bare hand. If you are not fully comfortable performing a capacitor discharge safely, have a qualified HVAC technician replace this part instead.
⚠️ Photograph The Wiring Before Disconnecting — Match Terminals Exactly Wear work gloves and safety glasses. After confirming the capacitor is fully discharged, photograph the wiring on the old capacitor's terminals before disconnecting anything — dual capacitors are labeled C (Common), Herm or Comp (compressor/hermetic), and Fan, and getting a wire on the wrong terminal can damage the new capacitor or the motor it feeds. Note which terminal each wire came from, or label them individually with tape. Remove the mounting strap or bracket holding the old capacitor in its housing, and disconnect each wire from its terminal. Install the new XPDC60X5-450R in the same mounting position, secure it with the strap or bracket, and reconnect each wire to the matching terminal (C, Herm, and Fan) exactly as labeled. Double-check every connection before restoring power. Restore power at the breaker and disconnect box, and confirm the compressor and fan both start promptly and run smoothly. Tools needed: insulated-handle screwdriver or capacitor discharge tool, nut driver, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My AC unit hums but won't start. Is this the capacitor?
It's one of the most common causes of exactly that symptom. A run capacitor gives the compressor or fan motor the extra push needed to start turning; without it, the motor can draw power and hum in place without ever actually starting to spin. If you can see the capacitor can and it looks bulged, domed on top, or is leaking a brown oily residue, that's strong visual confirmation of failure.
Can I use a 450V capacitor to replace my old 370V or 440V one?
Yes. Voltage rating is a ceiling, not an exact match requirement — a capacitor rated for a higher voltage than your original will work safely and often lasts longer under the same electrical stress. What you cannot do is go the other direction: never install a capacitor with a lower voltage rating than your original, since that risks premature failure or the capacitor breaking down under normal operating conditions.
Does the round vs. oval shape matter?
Only for physical fit inside your unit's electrical compartment — it has no effect on electrical performance. If your unit's mounting bracket or available space is sized for a round can, use a round capacitor; if it's sized for an oval can, use an oval one. The MFD and voltage ratings are what matter electrically, not the shape.
The fan spins if I give it a push, but won't start on its own. What does that mean?
This is a classic sign of a weak or failing capacitor — it may still have enough charge to keep the motor running once it's already spinning, but not enough to provide the initial starting torque. This is a strong signal to replace the capacitor before it fails completely and leaves you with no cooling at all.
Is this a genuine OEM part?
This is a universal replacement part rather than a brand-specific OEM part. Because dual run capacitors are a standardized component defined by their electrical specifications rather than their manufacturer, this capacitor is a correct replacement for any unit's original capacitor that shares the same 60/5 MFD, 450VAC, round dual run capacitor rating — regardless of which HVAC brand originally installed it.
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EBF61674802 Washer Genuine Lid Switch and Lock Assembly
Replaces Part Number: EBF61674802, EBF60665201, AP5785599, PS8751171
Description: The Lid Switch and Lock Assembly is a Genuine OEM parts for select Kenmore, LG washing machine models. It contains both the switch that detects when the lid is closed, as well as the metal lock mechanisms that securely engage the lid during active cycles.
XPARTCO XPDC45X5-450R Dual Run Capacitor (45/5 MFD, 450V, Round)
The XPARTCO XPDC45X5-450R is a universal dual run capacitor for central air conditioners, heat pumps, and condensing units. A run capacitor works alongside a single-phase AC motor to keep it running efficiently once it's started, boosting torque and correcting the phase of the current feeding the motor's windings. This is a dual capacitor, meaning it combines two separate capacitors — one for the compressor, one for the condenser fan motor — into a single three-terminal can, which is why nearly every residential outdoor AC unit uses exactly this style of component to run both motors from one part.
Rated 45 MFD for the compressor circuit and 5 MFD for the fan motor circuit, at 450VAC, in a round aluminum can housing. Because a capacitor's voltage rating is a ceiling rather than a fixed match, this 450V-rated capacitor can safely replace an original capacitor rated 370V or 440V — going higher on voltage is always safe, going lower is not. Over time, the dielectric material inside a run capacitor breaks down from heat cycling and electrical stress, causing it to lose capacitance or fail outright. A failing dual capacitor produces a very recognizable set of symptoms: the outdoor unit hums but the compressor or fan won't start, the fan spins slowly or needs a manual push to get going, the system trips the breaker, or the capacitor can itself is visibly bulging, domed, or leaking oily residue at the top.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO XPDC45X5-450R Dual Run Capacitor fixes central air conditioners and heat pumps where the outdoor unit hums but won't start, the compressor or fan motor won't run, the fan spins slowly or needs a manual push, the breaker trips, or the capacitor can is visibly bulged or leaking. 45 MFD (compressor) + 5 MFD (fan) dual capacitor, 450VAC, round, 3-terminal. Universal fit for equipment originally speced at 370V or 440V, since a higher voltage rating is always a safe upgrade. Capacitors store a dangerous electrical charge even after power is disconnected — always discharge before handling.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Outdoor AC unit hums but the compressor won't start
Condenser fan won't spin, or spins slowly and needs a manual push to get going
System trips the breaker shortly after starting
AC blows warm air because the compressor isn't running
Repeated clicking sound from the contactor as it tries and fails to start the motor
Capacitor can visibly bulging, domed on top, or leaking oily residue
System that used to start slowly and has now stopped starting altogether
Burning smell from the outdoor unit's electrical compartment
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
XPDC45X5-450R
This is a universal component rather than a single-manufacturer part, so the specific OEM number your HVAC system's label references will vary by brand (Goodman, Trane, Carrier, Rheem, York, Lennox, Amana, and others). This capacitor is a correct replacement for any dual run capacitor matching the 45 MFD / 5 MFD rating with a voltage rating of 450V or lower. If you have your original part number, contact our support team and we will verify compatibility before you order.
Compatibility
This dual run capacitor is a universal replacement compatible with central air conditioners, heat pumps, and condensing units across all major HVAC brands, wherever the original capacitor is rated:
45 MFD (compressor) + 5 MFD (fan motor)
370V, 440V, or 450V (this capacitor's 450V rating exceeds and safely replaces either lower rating)
Round can shape with 3 terminals
Note: The MFD (microfarad) rating must match your original capacitor exactly on both sides — do not substitute a different MFD value for either the compressor or fan side. Voltage rating, on the other hand, can be equal to or higher than the original (450V safely replaces 370V or 440V), but never lower. Can shape (round vs. oval) affects only physical fit inside your unit's electrical compartment, not performance. If you're unsure of your original capacitor's specifications, they're printed directly on its can — contact our support team if you'd like help confirming compatibility.
Key Features
Universal dual run capacitor — supports both the compressor and condenser fan motor from one component
45 MFD compressor rating + 5 MFD fan motor rating in a single 3-terminal can
450VAC rating — a safe upgrade replacement for equipment originally speced at 370V or 440V
Round aluminum can construction
Resolves "hums but won't start," "fan spins slowly," "trips the breaker," and "bulging or leaking can" symptoms caused by capacitor failure
1/4" quick-connect terminals for a direct plug-on fit to standard HVAC wiring
50/60Hz rated
Safety approved: CQC, VDE, TÜV, and CL; built to GB/T 3667 and EN 60252 standards
Built to meet or exceed industry-standard specifications for this capacitor class
Product Specifications
Part Number
XPDC45X5-450R
Part Type
Dual Run Capacitor
Condition
New — Universal Replacement Part
Capacitance — Compressor
45 MFD (µF)
Capacitance — Fan Motor
5 MFD (µF)
Voltage Rating
450VAC
Shape
Round
Terminals
3 (1/4" quick-connect)
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Tolerance
±5%
Construction Type
Polypropylene film capacitor
Operating Temperature Range
-40°C to 70°C (-40°F to +158°F)
Safety Approvals
CQC, VDE, TÜV, CL
Approval Standard
GB/T 3667, EN 60252
Application
Central Air Conditioners, Heat Pumps, Condensing Units
Quantity
1 dual run capacitor
Compatible Brands
Universal — all major HVAC brands
Installation Notes
⚠️ Danger — Capacitors Store A Dangerous Electrical Charge Shut off power to the outdoor unit at the disconnect box and at the breaker before beginning. A capacitor stores an electrical charge even after power has been disconnected, and that charge can deliver a serious or fatal shock. Before touching any terminal, discharge the capacitor by shorting each pair of terminals together (C-to-Fan, C-to-Herm, and Fan-to-Herm) using an insulated-handle screwdriver, or by using a proper capacitor discharge tool with a resistor. Never short the terminals with a bare metal tool held with your bare hand. If you are not fully comfortable performing a capacitor discharge safely, have a qualified HVAC technician replace this part instead.
⚠️ Photograph The Wiring Before Disconnecting — Match Terminals Exactly Wear work gloves and safety glasses. After confirming the capacitor is fully discharged, photograph the wiring on the old capacitor's terminals before disconnecting anything — dual capacitors are labeled C (Common), Herm or Comp (compressor/hermetic), and Fan, and getting a wire on the wrong terminal can damage the new capacitor or the motor it feeds. Note which terminal each wire came from, or label them individually with tape. Remove the mounting strap or bracket holding the old capacitor in its housing, and disconnect each wire from its terminal. Install the new XPDC45X5-450R in the same mounting position, secure it with the strap or bracket, and reconnect each wire to the matching terminal (C, Herm, and Fan) exactly as labeled. Double-check every connection before restoring power. Restore power at the breaker and disconnect box, and confirm the compressor and fan both start promptly and run smoothly. Tools needed: insulated-handle screwdriver or capacitor discharge tool, nut driver, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My AC unit hums but won't start. Is this the capacitor?
It's one of the most common causes of exactly that symptom. A run capacitor gives the compressor or fan motor the extra push needed to start turning; without it, the motor can draw power and hum in place without ever actually starting to spin. If you can see the capacitor can and it looks bulged, domed on top, or is leaking a brown oily residue, that's strong visual confirmation of failure.
Can I use a 450V capacitor to replace my old 370V or 440V one?
Yes. Voltage rating is a ceiling, not an exact match requirement — a capacitor rated for a higher voltage than your original will work safely and often lasts longer under the same electrical stress. What you cannot do is go the other direction: never install a capacitor with a lower voltage rating than your original, since that risks premature failure or the capacitor breaking down under normal operating conditions.
Does the round vs. oval shape matter?
Only for physical fit inside your unit's electrical compartment — it has no effect on electrical performance. If your unit's mounting bracket or available space is sized for a round can, use a round capacitor; if it's sized for an oval can, use an oval one. The MFD and voltage ratings are what matter electrically, not the shape.
The fan spins if I give it a push, but won't start on its own. What does that mean?
This is a classic sign of a weak or failing capacitor — it may still have enough charge to keep the motor running once it's already spinning, but not enough to provide the initial starting torque. This is a strong signal to replace the capacitor before it fails completely and leaves you with no cooling at all.
Is this a genuine OEM part?
This is a universal replacement part rather than a brand-specific OEM part. Because dual run capacitors are a standardized component defined by their electrical specifications rather than their manufacturer, this capacitor is a correct replacement for any unit's original capacitor that shares the same 45/5 MFD, 450VAC, round dual run capacitor rating — regardless of which HVAC brand originally installed it.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Quality Replacement Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO WR55X10942C Refrigerator Control Board
The XPARTCO WR55X10942C is an aftermarket replacement main control board for GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and select Kenmore refrigerators. This board is the central processor for the refrigeration system — it regulates temperature, manages the defrost cycle, and controls compressor operation, coordinating everything that keeps both the fresh food and freezer compartments at the correct temperature. Electrical surges and ordinary long-term wear are both common causes of this board failing.
Manufacturer part number 200D4850G022. A failing control board produces a wide range of symptoms because so many functions run through it: inconsistent or fluctuating temperatures, a refrigerator that runs too warm or too cold, the refrigerator not starting at all, unusual clicking noises as the board misfires relay signals, or ice that melts and refreezes as the defrost cycle malfunctions. It directly replaces WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, WR55X10942CT, WR49X10060, WR55X10024, WR55X10037, WR55X10045, WR55X10056, WR55X10065, WR55X10079, WR55X10083, WR55X10086, WR55X10090, WR55X10097, WR55X10109, WR55X10110, WR55X10151, WR55X10160, WR55X10171, WR55X10174, WR55X10177, WR55X10187, WR55X10188, AP7188100, and PS16729744.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WR55X10942C Refrigerator Control Board fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and select Kenmore refrigerators with inconsistent temperatures, a fridge running too warm or too cold, the unit not starting, clicking noises, or ice that melts and refreezes from a malfunctioning defrost cycle. Manufacturer part number 200D4850G022. Replaces WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, WR55X10942CT, WR49X10060, WR55X10024, WR55X10037, WR55X10045, WR55X10056, WR55X10065, WR55X10079, WR55X10083, WR55X10086, WR55X10090, WR55X10097, WR55X10109, WR55X10110, WR55X10151, WR55X10160, WR55X10171, WR55X10174, WR55X10177, WR55X10187, WR55X10188, AP7188100, PS16729744. GE has released many similar-looking control boards across its refrigerator generations — always confirm your exact model number before ordering, since boards that look alike are not always interchangeable.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator temperatures fluctuating or running inconsistently
Refrigerator running too warm or too cold
Refrigerator not starting at all
Unusual clicking noises from the refrigerator
Ice melting and refreezing due to a malfunctioning defrost cycle
Refrigerator or freezer section not cooling properly
Symptoms that began suddenly, potentially following an electrical surge
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator control board directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR55X10942C, WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, WR49X10060, WR55X10065, WR55X10160, WR55X10187, WR55X10328, WR55X10333, WR55X10335, WR55X10336, WR55X10339, WR55X10358, WR55X10366, WR55X10372, WR55X10379, WR55X10381, WR55X10385, WR55X10396, WR55X10413, WR55X10416, WR55X10426, WR55X10427, WR55X10432, WR55X10436, WR55X10456, WR55X10473, WR55X10474, WR55X10523, WR55X10524, WR55X10526, WR55X10529, WR55X10543, WR55X10552, WR55X10554, WR55X10558, WR55X10589, WR55X10597, WR55X10603, WR55X10606, WR55X10614, WR55X10616, WR55X10626, WR55X10656, WR55X10659, WR55X10699, WR55X10712, WR55X10715, WR55X10722, WR55X10942CT, WR55X11036, AP7188100, AGE29813 PD00074367, 200D2259G017, 200D4850G022, 200D4852G018, 200D4852G024, 200D4854G008, 200D4854G013, 200D6221G013, 200D6221G015, 200D6221G016, WKKT 1304-00-70A.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This control board is compatible with select GE and Hotpoint refrigerators, and also fits select RCA and Kenmore refrigerators built on the GE platform.
Note — many similar-looking boards exist: GE has produced numerous refrigerator main control boards across different generations that can look nearly identical to this one, and not all of them are interchangeable despite the resemblance. Always verify your full refrigerator model number before ordering, rather than matching by appearance alone. Contact our support team with your model number and we will confirm fitment before you order.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement main control board — regulates temperature, defrost, and compressor operation
Resolves "inconsistent temperatures," "won't start," "clicking noises," and "ice melting and refreezing" symptoms caused by control board failure
Includes built-in defrost controls
Manufacturer part number 200D4850G022
Direct drop-in replacement for the original board mounting and harness connectors
Replaces WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, WR55X10942CT, WR49X10060, and a wide range of earlier WR55X-prefix board numbers listed above
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and select Kenmore refrigerators
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Moderately difficult repair, typically 15 to 45 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR55X10942C
OEM Part Number
WR55X10942C (200D4850G022)
Part Type
Refrigerator Main Control Board
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Brand
GE
Function
Regulates temperature, defrost cycle, and compressor operation
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — 15 to 45 minutes
Quantity
1 control board
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Handle The Board By Its Edges Unplug the refrigerator or shut off power at the breaker before beginning to avoid electrical hazards. Wear work gloves. Access is typically through a rear cover panel: remove the screws securing the cover to reach the board. Photograph all harness connections before disconnecting anything — this board has multiple connectors, and reconnecting one in the wrong position will cause a malfunction or no-start symptom. Handle the new board by its edges rather than touching the components directly, and avoid working in conditions with static buildup, since these boards can be sensitive to static discharge. Remove the mounting screws, disconnect each harness connector from the old board, and lift it free. Position the replacement WR55X10942C board in the same location, secure it in place, and reconnect all harnesses firmly, matching the original connector locations exactly as photographed. Put the rear cover back on and tighten the screws, then restore power and confirm normal cooling and defrost operation, along with any dispenser or interior lighting behavior your model has. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My refrigerator temperature keeps fluctuating for no clear reason. Is this the control board?
It's a strong possibility, especially if you've already ruled out simpler causes like a door seal that isn't sealing properly or a condenser coil that needs cleaning. Since this board regulates both temperature and the defrost cycle together, a failing board can cause the refrigerator to swing between too warm and too cold as it struggles to manage the system correctly.
Could a power surge have caused this failure?
Yes, this is a documented and common cause of control board failure. Electrical surges, including those from storms or grid fluctuations, can damage the board's circuitry outright, leading to sudden symptom onset. If your refrigerator's issues started abruptly, especially after a storm or power event, this board is a reasonable first suspect.
There are so many similar GE control board part numbers. How do I make sure I'm ordering the right one?
This is a real and common point of confusion, since GE has released many visually similar boards across different refrigerator generations that are not all interchangeable. The safest approach is to match your refrigerator's full model number against this listing's compatibility rather than relying on how similar a board looks to your old one. If you're at all unsure, send us your model number and we'll confirm fitment before you order.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the processor, relay switching, defrost control circuitry, and harness connector configuration of the original WR55X10942C control board used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore refrigerators.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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CON-5-370-R HVAC ROUND MOTOR RUN CAPACITOR
Appli Parts Run Capacitor for ac 5 Mfd uF (microfarads) 370 VAC
Appli Parts Run Capacitor for ac 5 Mfd uF (microfarads) 370 VAC Round Universal fit for hvac and other applications 2-1/2 in High 1-1/2 in Wide CON-5-370Universal: Replaces any brand with the same capacitance capacity and voltage. Will work for 370V . 1/4 in Male Quick-connectSpecs: Tolerance is +/- 5 % of Capacity, Working temperature environment from -40F (-40C) to +185F (85C). Dimensions 2-5/8 in H, 1-1/2 in WProtection: Protected for 10,000AFC which means this product will not burst if by any reason is short circuitsReplaces: TRCF5 PRCF5A CAP-5-370Confirm that the dimensions and other attributes of the product closely match those of the original item being replaced
W10195039 Dishwasher Float Switch replaces WPW10195039 - Compatible with Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, Inglis, Kenmore Dishwashers
Product Description
Protect your dishwasher from overfilling with the replacement W10195039 Dishwasher Float Switch. This high-quality float switch, designed for Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, Inglis, and Kenmore dishwashers, monitors water levels and signals the water inlet valve to shut off when the water reaches the appropriate height, preventing overflows and potential water damage. Made from durable plastic and copper with a plunger actuator, this switch (6A, 125/250VAC) addresses issues like overfilling, under-filling, or water inlet valve malfunctions.
Note: Includes one float switch. Disconnect power before installation.
Replaces part numbers: WPW10195039, W10195039, W10734532, 1872053, MS10-06, PD00002753, EAP11750031, AP6016738, PS11750031.
Compatibility:
Compatible with models including but not limited to:
Whirlpool: ADB1500ADB1, ADB1500ADS1, ADB1500ADW1, 7WDF530PAYM2
Kenmore: 66512093K210, 66512413N410, 66512723K310, 66513002N510, 66514742N511
KitchenAid: KDFE204ESS0, KUDE20FXBL3, KUDE40FXWH5
Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, Inglis: Models requiring W10195039 or compatible float switches
Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance.
Key Features:
✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, Inglis, and Kenmore dishwasher models.
🔥 Specifications: replacement float switch, 6A, 125/250VAC, normally open, plunger actuator, plug-in connector, 2-way circuit, plastic/copper construction, 2" x 1" x 2", panel mount.
💰 Cost-Effective Alternative: replacement switch offers OEM-equivalent performance at a lower price.
🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires screwdriver, flashlight, work gloves; typically installed in 30–60 minutes.
🛡️ Reliable Fixes: Resolves issues like dishwasher overfilling, under-filling, water inlet valve not shutting off, or error codes related to water level.
Installation Notes:
Safety First: Disconnect the dishwasher from the power source before installation.
Shop Parts-O-Matic for high-quality replacement appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Keep your dishwasher running safely and efficiently today!
Add to cart now for a budget-friendly fix!
DA34-00041B Refrigerator Door Switch – Replacement for Samsung
Product Overview
The DA34-00041B Refrigerator Door Switch is an aftermarket replacement that controls interior lighting and signals the control board when the refrigerator or freezer door is open or closed. A malfunctioning switch can result in the light staying off or on, cooling fans not running correctly, or even door-related error codes. Replacing a faulty switch with this part helps restore normal operation and energy efficiency.
Replaces Part Numbers
This part replaces DA34-00041B, DA34-10110B, AP5957961, PS10061325.
It is designed to meet OEM specifications for reliable fit and performance in Samsung-built refrigerators.
Compatible Brands
This door switch is compatible with refrigerators manufactured by Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-built). It fits a wide range of French door, bottom freezer, and side-by-side models.
Fixes the Following Issues
Refrigerator light not turning on or off
Cooling fan not operating when door closes
Door-related error messages
Inconsistent temperature regulation
Why Buy from Parts‑O‑Matic
Affordable and reliable aftermarket solution
Fast and free U.S. shipping
Easy to install with no special tools required
Trusted by appliance repair professionals and DIYers
Genuine OEM Frigidaire / Electrolux Washer Part
134762010 Washer Genuine OEM Water Level Pressure Switch
Monitors air pressure from the washer tub and signals the control system when the correct water level has been reached.
Product Overview
The Frigidaire 134762010 Washer Water Level Pressure Switch senses changes in air pressure through the washer pressure hose to monitor the amount of water inside the tub. It signals the washer control system when the correct water level has been reached so the appliance can fill, wash, drain, and advance through the cycle correctly.
This is a new Genuine OEM Frigidaire / Electrolux replacement part manufactured to the original equipment specifications for proper fit, electrical connection, and operation in compatible washers.
Quick Answer
134762010 is a Genuine OEM water-level pressure switch for select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and Crosley front-load washers. It replaces 7134762010. This listing is for the pressure switch only; the pressure hose, clamp, wiring harness, and mounting hardware are not included unless specifically shown.
Common Problems This Part May Fix
Washer overfills with water
Washer does not fill or underfills
Incorrect or inconsistent water level
Cycle stops or will not advance
Washer does not drain or complete the cycle correctly
E35 or another water-level-related error on applicable models
Replaces and Cross-References
134762010, 1482962, 7134762010, AH2349296, AP4368525, AFR14413, EA2349296, PD00007813, PS2349296.
134762010 is the current manufacturer part number. Other numbers are previous manufacturer or retailer cross-references.
Compatibility
Designed for select front-load washers manufactured by Electrolux and sold under Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and Crosley brand names. Confirmed model examples include:
41741100000
41744130000
EIFLS55IRR0
EIFLS60JIW1
FAFS4473LN0
FAFW3921NW0
FFFW5000QW0
CFW4700LW0
CFW7400QW0
Important: This is a partial compatibility list. Pressure switches can look alike while using different settings, terminals, mounting tabs, or control calibration. Verify the complete washer model number before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM Frigidaire / Electrolux replacement part
Monitors the water level inside the washer tub
Signals the control system when the correct fill level is reached
Supports proper filling, washing, draining, and cycle operation
Snap-tab mounting design on compatible models
Designed for original fit and electrical connection
Product Specifications
Manufacturer Part Number
134762010
Brand
Frigidaire / Electrolux
Part Type
Washer Water Level Pressure Switch
Condition
New
Quality
Genuine OEM
Application
Front-Load Washing Machine
Primary Function
Senses and controls the washer water level
Included
One Water Level Pressure Switch
Installation Notes
Unplug the washer and shut off both water-supply valves.
Remove the washer top panel as required for your model.
Photograph the wire connector and pressure-hose connection before disconnecting them.
Disconnect the electrical connector without pulling on the wires.
Release the clamp and carefully remove the pressure hose.
Remove the old switch and install the replacement in the same position.
Reconnect the hose, clamp, and electrical connector, then reinstall the top panel.
Diagnostic tip: Inspect the pressure hose for cracks, pinholes, blockage, moisture, loose connections, or trapped debris. A damaged or obstructed hose can cause the same symptoms as a failed pressure switch.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is 134762010 a genuine OEM part?
Yes. It is a Genuine OEM Frigidaire / Electrolux washer water-level pressure switch.
What does the pressure switch do?
It monitors air pressure from the washer tub and signals the control system when the correct water level has been reached.
Which part number does it replace?
It replaces previous manufacturer part number 7134762010.
Does this include the pressure hose?
No. The listing is for the pressure switch only unless additional components are specifically shown and stated as included.
Will it fit every Frigidaire or Electrolux washer?
No. Verify the complete appliance model number and required manufacturer part number before purchasing.
Shop With Confidence
Purchase the correct Genuine OEM replacement part for dependable fit and operation. Verify your washer model number before ordering, and contact our parts team when compatibility assistance is needed.
Genuine OEM PartFast U.S. ShippingCompatibility SupportSecure Checkout
EXPFFSB Microwave Door Switch and Fuse Kit – Replaces FSSBA016KIT & 5303319559 – Compatible with Frigidaire & Electrolux Microwaves
Product Description
Restore proper microwave safety operation with the EXPFFSB Microwave Door Switch and Fuse Kit. This aftermarket repair kit includes the essential components needed to fix common microwave door and power issues, including one door switch and one ceramic fuse.
A faulty door switch or blown fuse can prevent the microwave from starting, cause intermittent power loss, or trigger safety shutdowns. Replacing both components together helps restore reliable microwave operation and prevents repeat failures.
This kit is engineered to match original fit and electrical performance while offering a cost-effective alternative to OEM parts.
This kit includes:
1 Microwave Door Switch
1 Microwave Fuse
Replaces Part Numbers
FSSBA016KIT, FFS-BA016/KIT, PS2422854, FFSBA016/KIT-R, FFSBA016/KIT, FFSBA016KIT, 5303319559, 634759, 75303319559, PD00026535, EAP466978, AH466978, EA466978, AP2148482, PS466978, 5304467695, 1467286, 75304467695, AH2339493, EA2339493, AP4357598, PS2339493, 5304461109, 1260958, 75304461109, AH1765534, EA1765534, AP4057424, PS1765534, 4313105, 565130, 8185302, AH358056, EA358056, AP3032745, PS358056, 5304479020, 1793730, AH3409702, EA3409702, AP4588054, PS3409702
Compatibility
This microwave door switch and fuse repair kit fits select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, and Kenmore (Frigidaire-manufactured) microwaves.
Common compatible models include (but are not limited to):
Frigidaire FFMV1645TS
Frigidaire FGMV176NTF
Always verify your microwave’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🔄 Complete Repair Kit – Includes door switch and microwave fuse
⚡ Restores Microwave Power – Fixes no-start and power loss issues
🔒 Door Safety Function – Ensures proper door interlock operation
🧩 Direct-Fit Components – Designed for straightforward installation
💰 Cost-Effective Repair – Replace two common failure parts at once
📐 Product Specification
Kit Number: EXPFFSB
Includes:
(1) Microwave Door Switch
(1) Microwave Fuse
Application: Microwave door interlock and circuit protection
Fuse Type: Ceramic microwave line fuse
Quality Level: Aftermarket replacement kit (not OEM)
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the microwave before servicing to avoid electrical shock. Microwaves contain high-voltage components—ensure the capacitor is discharged before handling internal parts.
Basic Steps:
Disconnect microwave power.
Remove the outer cabinet or control panel to access the door switch assembly.
Replace the faulty door switch.
Locate and replace the blown fuse.
Reassemble the microwave and restore power.
Test door operation and heating function.
⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes
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Restore microwave safety and reliable operation — Add to Cart Now for a complete repair solution!