Genuine OEM WPW10140917 Washer Water Inlet Valve with Vacuum Break
The Genuine OEM Whirlpool WPW10140917 is the water inlet valve with vacuum break for select Whirlpool-built washers, including Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis and other brands. The valve regulates water intake for wash cycles and delivers water into the washer drum, and the vacuum break helps keep wash water from backing up into the supply. When the valve fails, the washer may leak, and fill problems can follow.
This is the original Whirlpool part, not an aftermarket equivalent. Check your model number before ordering.
Quick Answer
The Genuine OEM WPW10140917 Water Inlet Valve replaces the water inlet valve on a compatible Whirlpool-built washer when it leaks or no longer controls water intake correctly. Replaces W10140917. Classic symptom: water leaking at the valve.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Water leaking at the inlet valve
Water inlet valve not controlling water intake correctly
Washer not filling or filling incorrectly because of a failed valve
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve replaces or supersedes the following part numbers:
WPW10140917, W10140917, OEM18047055, AP6015682, AWP49689, EAP11748963, PD00003949, PS11748963
Whirlpool sells similar valves under nearby numbers, such as WPW10140918, which are not interchangeable by number alone. If your old valve shows a different number, contact our support team and we'll check whether it matches.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is listed for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Amana, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef and Crosley washers, including these examples:
WTW5100VQ1, WTW5100VQ2, WTW5300SQ2, 1CWTW5100VQ1
CAWS9234VQ0, ETW4400VQ3, NTW4500VQ1
ITW4300SQ3, IV45001, IV4500X0
Note: The models above are a small sample, not a full list. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine OEM Whirlpool part, not an aftermarket equivalent
Water inlet valve with vacuum break
Regulates water intake and delivers water into the washer drum
Sold as one complete valve
Product Specifications
Part Number
WPW10140917
OEM Part Number
WPW10140917
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve with Vacuum Break
Condition
Genuine OEM
Manufacturer
Whirlpool
Application
Select Whirlpool-Built Washers
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Power And Shut Off Water Before Installing Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before you begin, and wear protective gloves. Access to the valve is typically through the back panel or the control panel, depending on the model. Note where each hose and wiring connector goes, disconnect them, remove the old valve, and fit the new valve in the same position. Reconnect everything, restore water and power, and run a short cycle while checking for leaks.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer is leaking at the valve. Is this the part I need?
If the leak is coming from the water inlet valve itself, replacing the valve is the repair. Check the supply hoses and their connections first, since a loose or worn hose can leak in the same area.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part from Whirlpool, not an aftermarket equivalent.
Can I use a valve with a similar part number?
Not by number alone. Whirlpool sells several water inlet valves with similar numbers for different washers. Match the part number and your model number, or contact our support team and we'll check for you.
Will this fit my washer?
It is listed for many Whirlpool-built washers, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order.
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DC34-00025G Washer Genuine OEM Lid Switch and Lock Assembly – Fits Samsung Washers
Product Overview
The DC34-00025G Washer Lid Switch and Lock Assembly is a genuine OEM replacement part that ensures your washer lid stays securely locked during wash and spin cycles. This part detects when the lid is closed and locks it to prevent accidental opening, providing safety and proper cycle operation. A worn or broken lid lock can cause your washer to stop mid-cycle, display error codes, or fail to start. Replacing it restores dependable washer performance and safety compliance.
Replaces Part Numbers
This lid switch and lock assembly replaces DC34-00025G, AP6884125, PS12720530.
Manufactured to original equipment specifications for a precise fit and long-term durability.
Compatible Brands
Compatible with select Samsung top-load washers manufactured by Samsung. Fits a variety of models using this specific lid lock assembly.
Fixes the Following Issues
Washer won’t start or stops mid-cycle
Lid doesn’t lock properly
Error codes related to lid switch or lock failure
Washer won't enter spin or drain cycles
Why Buy from Parts‑O‑Matic
Factory-original genuine OEM part
Fast and free U.S. shipping
Trusted by appliance professionals and DIYers
Backed by reliable customer support
W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve
The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it.
Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle
Washer fills much more slowly than normal
Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for
Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles
F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum
Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091
W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including:
Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series
Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models)
KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models)
Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models)
Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models)
Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0.
Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design
Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure
Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes
Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve
Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710
Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10599356
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built)
Actuation
Solenoid-operated
Connections
Hot and cold water supply inlets
Supersedes
W10509710
Repair Difficulty
Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad?
It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause.
Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve?
Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting.
Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve?
Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair.
Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there?
It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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WP8181651 Washer Genuine OEM Door Striker
Replaces Part Numbers: WP8181651, 8181651, 906446, AP6011711, PS11744910.
Description: This Door Strike is a Genuine part for specific Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool washing machine models. This component is responsible for providing a secure and proper closure for the washer door, ensuring it seals tightly during operation.
DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve – Compatible with Samsung & Kenmore Washers
Product Description
Restore proper water flow and dependable washer operation with the DC62-00311F Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve. This factory-approved inlet valve precisely controls water entering the washer during fill cycles. A defective valve may cause no-fill issues, slow filling, water leaks, or error codes. Installing this Genuine OEM water valve ensures exact fit, correct water pressure, and long-lasting performance as designed by the manufacturer.
Replaces Part Numbers
DC62-00311F, PD00043649, EAP11719654, AP5966624, 3992244, PS11719654.
Compatibility
This Genuine OEM washer water inlet valve fits select Samsung and Kenmore (Samsung-manufactured) washers.
Example compatible models include (but are not limited to):Samsung WF203ANS, WF206ANS, WF209ANSKenmore 592.49003, 592.49005
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering.Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
✅ Key Features
🧩 Genuine OEM Replacement – Factory-certified for exact fit and performance
💧 Accurate Water Control – Ensures proper fill levels during wash cycles
🔧 Durable Solenoid Construction – Designed for reliable long-term use
🛠️ Direct-Fit Installation – No modifications required
🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves no-fill, slow fill, leaking, or error codes
📐 Product Specification
Part Number: DC62-00311F
Component Type: Washer Water Inlet Valve
Voltage: 120V AC
Water Connections: Hot & Cold
Material: OEM-grade reinforced plastic with metal solenoids
Mounting: Rear cabinet direct-fit
Compliance: Genuine OEM certified
🛠️ Installation Notes
Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel or shallow pan
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before servicing.
Steps:
Disconnect power and turn off water supply.
Remove the rear access panel.
Disconnect inlet hoses and wiring harness from the old valve.
Remove mounting screws and take out the old valve.
Install the new DC62-00311F water valve and secure it.
Reconnect hoses and wiring, restore water and power, and test for leaks.
⏱️ Time Required: 20–30 minutes
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🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders
⚙️ Genuine OEM Replacement Part
🔄 30-Day Return Policy
Restore proper washer filling with confidence — Add to Cart Now for a factory-quality repair!
WH23X28418 Washer Genuine GE OEM Drain Pump
The WH23X28418 is a Genuine GE OEM replacement drain pump and motor assembly compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, Haier, RCA, and Kenmore top-load and front-load washers. The drain pump removes water from the washer drum during the drain and spin cycles — expelling water and detergent through the drain hose so that clothing comes out clean and free of excess water. When the pump fails, the washer will not drain, may leave standing water in the tub, or may produce loud noises during the drain cycle.
This complete drain pump and motor assembly is rated at 120V, 60Hz, 1.25A with a duty cycle of 10 minutes on and 50 minutes off. It includes the pump and motor with harness — the harness and plug extend approximately 10 inches from the motor. The pump measures 5-1/4" L x 5-1/8" W x 5-1/2" H and includes a drain pump seal. It directly replaces WH23X24178 and WH23X27574, as well as several additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in 20–40 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The WH23X28418 Washer Genuine GE OEM Drain Pump fixes GE, Hotpoint, Haier, and RCA washers that won't drain, leave standing water in the tub, are noisy during draining, or leak around the pump area. Complete pump and motor with harness and drain pump seal. 120V/60Hz/1.25A. Dimensions 5-1/4" L x 5-1/8" W x 5-1/2" H; harness extends approx. 10". Replaces WH23X24178 and WH23X27574.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not draining — standing water remaining in the tub after a cycle
Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a drain fault or drain-related error code
Loud humming, grinding, or buzzing noise during the drain cycle
Washer pumps but will not spin — pump failure preventing cycle completion
Water leaking from around the drain pump area
Clothes not clean or coming out soaking wet due to incomplete drainage
Pump impeller jammed by debris causing motor burnout
Replaces Part Numbers
This drain pump directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH23X24178, WH23X28418, WH23X27574, 290D1201G001, 290D1201G002, 290D1201G003, AGE26155, B40-3A01, B30-3A02, PD00055680, EAP12723115, AP6889136, PS12723115.
WH23X28418 is the current updated part number replacing the discontinued WH23X24178 and WH23X27574. If your washer documentation or old pump label shows either of those numbers, this is the correct replacement.
Compatibility
This drain pump is compatible with select washers from the following brands and series:
GE top-load washers — GTW220, GTW330, GTW335, GTW460, GTW465, GTW485, GTW490, GTW500, GTW680, GTW720, GTW725, GTW750 series and others
GE front-load washers — select GFW series models
Hotpoint top-load washers — HTW200, HTW240 series and others
Haier top-load washers — select models
RCA top-load washers — select models
Kenmore / Sears washers — select GE-built models
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Removes water and detergent from the washer drum during drain and spin cycles
Complete assembly — includes pump motor, harness, and drain pump seal
Rated 120V, 60Hz, 1.25A with a 10-minute on / 50-minute off duty cycle
Dimensions: 5-1/4" L x 5-1/8" W x 5-1/2" H; harness and plug extend approximately 10" from motor
Plastic and metal construction rated CL.A — durable and chemical resistant
Includes drain pump seal to prevent leaks at the pump connection
Current updated replacement for discontinued WH23X24178 and WH23X27574 — direct fit
Note: The drain pump motor has been redesigned by the manufacturer — the replacement may look different from the original but fits and functions identically
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-exact fit, materials, and specifications
DIY-friendly repair — installs in 20–40 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH23X28418
Supersedes
WH23X24178, WH23X27574 (both discontinued)
Part Type
Washer Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, RCA Top-Load and Front-Load Washers
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
60 Hz
Amperage
1.25A
Rating
CL.A
Duty Cycle
10 minutes ON / 50 minutes OFF
Dimensions
5-1/4" L x 5-1/8" W x 5-1/2" H
Harness Length
Approximately 10 inches from motor
Color
White / Black / Gray
Material
Plastic / Metal
Includes
Pump and motor with harness, drain pump seal
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, RCA, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning any repair. Have towels and a shallow pan ready to catch residual water. For top-load GE washers, the drain pump is typically accessed from the bottom of the machine — carefully tilt the washer back onto a support or lay it on its side to reach the pump from underneath. Disconnect the outlet hose by loosening the hose clamp and pulling it free. Disconnect the electrical harness connector. Remove the mounting screws (typically three) securing the pump to the washer base. Twist and firmly pull the old pump out. Install the new WH23X28418 pump in reverse order — connect the hose, tighten the clamp, reconnect the harness, and secure the mounting screws. Restore power and water supply and run a test cycle to verify proper drainage and no leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, slip-joint pliers, shallow pan.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the relationship between WH23X28418, WH23X24178, and WH23X27574?
All three are GE washer drain pumps — WH23X28418 is the current updated part number that replaced both the discontinued WH23X24178 and WH23X27574. GE redesigned the pump motor during its production cycle, so the replacement may look slightly different from the original, but it fits and functions identically. If your washer uses either of the older numbers, order WH23X28418.
How do I know if my washer drain pump has failed?
The most common signs are standing water in the tub after a cycle, the washer stopping mid-cycle with a drain error, or loud humming during the drain phase — which indicates the motor is running but the impeller is not moving. A grinding or rattling noise suggests debris in the pump or physical damage. If the pump is completely silent during what should be the drain cycle, the motor has likely burned out and the pump needs replacement.
Does the WH23X28418 fit both top-load and front-load GE washers?
The WH23X28418 is primarily used in GE and Hotpoint top-load washers — the GTW and HTW series make up the majority of compatible models. It also fits select GE front-load models. Always verify your specific model number before ordering to confirm compatibility for your washer type.
What is the duty cycle rating and why does it matter?
The duty cycle of 10 minutes on / 50 minutes off means the pump motor is rated for up to 10 consecutive minutes of operation before requiring a 50-minute rest period. In normal washer operation this is never an issue — drain cycles are brief. However, if a drain fault causes the pump to run continuously without successfully draining, the motor can overheat. If you replace the pump due to burnout and the new pump also fails quickly, check for a drain hose blockage or control board fault that may be causing the pump to run without limit.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — the exact same drain pump and motor assembly installed in compatible models from the factory, with guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve
The WH13X10029 is a genuine GE OEM water inlet valve for GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers. This is a 2-inlet, 3-outlet valve assembly built around three internal solenoids: two work together during the wash portion of the cycle, opening in different combinations depending on the wash temperature you select, while the third solenoid handles the dedicated cold-only rinse. Because three separate solenoids share one valve body, a failure in any single one of them can affect only part of your washer's fill behavior while the rest continues working normally.
Rated 120V, 60Hz, and measuring approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H, this valve ships as a complete 3-solenoid assembly with its mounting bracket included. Common failure symptoms include the washer continuing to fill after it should have stopped, slow filling, or a complete failure to fill on one specific water temperature setting while others work fine. It directly replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392. As a genuine OEM part, the WH13X10029 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve fixes GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers that won't shut off after filling, fill slowly, or won't fill on a specific temperature setting (such as cold-only rinse) while other settings work fine. 2-inlet, 3-outlet, 3-solenoid valve assembly with mounting bracket, 120V, 60Hz, 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H. Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, PS1482392. Genuine OEM — manufactured by GE to factory specifications for guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer keeps filling and won't shut off, even after reaching the correct level
Washer fills much more slowly than it used to
Washer won't fill at all on one specific temperature setting while other settings work normally
Cold-only rinse cycle failing to fill while wash-cycle fills work fine (or vice versa)
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Water leaking or dripping near the valve connections
Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a fill-related fault
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH13X10029, 33090039, PD00001515, EAP1482392, AGE26067, AH1482392, EA1482392, AP4303282, PS1482392.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers, including model families such as GFA, GFW, GMA, and WBV, and specific models such as GFWS1600H, GFWS1605H, GFWS1700H, and GFWS1705H.
Note: This valve is specific to GE's front-load washer platform. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration
Complete 3-solenoid water valve assembly — 2 inlets (hot and cold), 3 outlets
Two solenoids manage the wash-cycle fill combinations by temperature selection; a third handles cold-only rinse
Resolves "won't shut off," "fills slowly," and "won't fill on a specific temperature setting" symptoms caused by valve failure
Includes the mounting bracket — no need to transfer hardware from the old valve
Rated 120V, 60Hz
Approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH13X10029
Condition
Genuine OEM
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (2-In / 3-Out, 3-Solenoid)
Brand
GE
Application
Front-Load Washers
Voltage
120V
Frequency
60 Hz
Inlets
2 (hot and cold)
Outlets
3
Solenoids
3 (one double, one single, one dedicated cold-rinse)
Dimensions
5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H
Kit Contents
Valve assembly + mounting bracket
Quantity
1 valve assembly
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Stackable Units May Need A Second Person Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. If your washer is part of a stacked laundry center, the dryer sitting on top will need to be removed first to access the top of the washer — this is much easier with a second person helping to lift and support the dryer safely. Remove the screws securing the top panel of the washer, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve, keeping a towel handy for residual water. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything, since this valve has multiple solenoids and outlet hoses that must be reconnected in the correct positions. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the three outlet hoses from the old valve, then remove its mounting screws and pull it free along with its bracket. Install the new WH13X10029 assembly in the same position, reconnect all three outlet hoses to their original positions, reconnect the electrical connectors, and secure the mounting screws. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses, tightening securely. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings, including a cold-only rinse if your washer has one, to confirm each solenoid is filling and shutting off correctly. If this is a stackable unit, carefully reposition the dryer back on top once testing is complete. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves, and a helper for stackable units.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't shut off and keeps filling. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing valve on this platform. A worn internal seal on one of the three solenoids can fail to close fully, letting water continue flowing even after the correct fill level is reached. Since this could lead to overflow, it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if you notice this happening rather than waiting to address it.
Only my cold-only rinse doesn't fill, but regular wash cycles work fine. Do I need the whole valve?
Yes. This valve houses three separate solenoids in one assembly — two that combine for wash-cycle fills at different temperatures, and one dedicated specifically to the cold-only rinse. If just one of those three has failed, the others can continue working normally, which is exactly why a single-cycle fill problem can appear alongside otherwise normal operation. The three solenoids aren't sold or serviced individually, so replacing the complete assembly is the correct repair even if only one function is affected.
Do I really need to remove the dryer if this is a stacked unit?
On most stacked laundry centers, yes — the top panel of the washer sits underneath the dryer, so the dryer needs to come off first to get access. This is a heavier, more awkward step than the rest of the repair, so it's worth having a second person help lift and support the dryer safely rather than attempting it alone.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same 3-solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration as the water valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
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XPARTCO 8181651 Washer Door Striker
Replaces Part Numbers: WP8181651, 8181651, 906446, AP6011711, PS11744910.
Description: This Door Strike is a replacement part for specific Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool washing machine models. This component is responsible for providing a secure and proper closure for the washer door, ensuring it seals tightly during operation.
This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.
XPARTCO 3355806 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP3355806
The XPARTCO 3355806 is an aftermarket replacement stackable washer lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Magic Chef stacked washer/dryer laundry centers (thin twin and space-saver units). The lid switch is a safety component mounted near the top of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning while the lid is open. When you close the lid, a pin on the lid activates the lever on the switch, signaling the control that it's safe to spin. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer won't spin as a safety measure, even though it may still fill and agitate normally.
The switch commonly fails in one of two ways: the plastic body cracks from the lid being slammed over time, or the internal switch contacts wear out and can no longer signal that the lid is closed. Features an 11" wiring harness with round plugs and a 7/8" block connector. It directly replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 3355806, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529, and PD00002599. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools and novice repair experience.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO 3355806 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and KitchenAid stacked washer/dryer laundry centers where the washer won't spin but still agitates and fills, the machine doesn't detect the lid is closed, or the washer won't start. Stackable washer lid switch assembly — 11" harness with round plugs, 7/8" block. Replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529. Compatible with Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243, and Kenmore thin twin models. Classic symptom: won't spin but still agitates.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't spin but still agitates and fills — the classic lid switch failure symptom
Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid
Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is
Lid switch body cracked from the lid being slammed over time
Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling lid closed
Washer stops mid-cycle when it should transition to spin
Clothes coming out sopping wet because the spin cycle never runs
Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WP3355806, ER3355806, 3355806, AP6008072, AWP47529, EAP11741201, PD00002599, PS11741201.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select stacked washer/dryer laundry centers (thin twin / space-saver units) from the following brands:
Whirlpool laundry centers — LTE5243DQ0-DQ8, LTE5243DT2-DT7, LTE5243DZ0/DZ1/DZ2, LTE5243BN0/BN1, LTG5243DQ0-DQC, LTG5243DT3/DT4/DT7/DT8, LTG5243DZ1/DZ2, LTG5243BN0/BN1 series and related
Whirlpool laundry centers — WET4024EW and related stacked models
Roper laundry centers — RTE5243BL0, RTE5243BW0, RTG5243BL0, RTG5243BW0 series
Kenmore / Sears laundry centers — thin twin models (110.9975820, 110088732791-11088754793, 11098573100-11098573800 series and related)
Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef — select stacked washer/dryer models
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Stackable washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning when the lid is open
Resolves the classic "won't spin but still agitates" symptom of lid switch failure
Restores the safety interlock and allows the washer to complete its spin cycle
Features an 11" wiring harness with round plugs and a 7/8" block connector
Designed for thin twin, space-saver, and other stacked washer/dryer laundry centers
Replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529, and PD00002599
Compatible with Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243 series, and Kenmore thin twin laundry centers, plus Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Magic Chef stacked units
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
3355806
OEM Part Number
WP3355806
Part Type
Stackable Washer Lid Switch Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Stacked Washer/Dryer Laundry Centers (Whirlpool platform)
Harness Length
11" with round plugs
Block Connector
7/8"
Function
Prevents washer spin when lid is open
Location
Near top of washer, behind front panel
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the appliance (or shut off the house circuit breaker) and turn off the hot and cold water supplies before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. On these stacked laundry centers, the lid switch is accessed by removing the front panel or the top panel — unscrew the screws along the edge of the panel and set it aside. Note: on some Whirlpool space-saver units, the hardest part of the job is getting the washer lid off to access the switch, so take your time and consult a model-specific diagram or video. Once the panel is off, locate the lid switch assembly near the top of the machine. Photograph the wiring harness connections before disconnecting anything. Unscrew the retaining screws that hold the lid switch in place, then carefully disconnect the wiring harness from the switch. Connect the wiring harness to the terminals on the new 3355806 switch, following the diagram on the switch for proper installation. Secure the new switch in place with the retaining screws. Reinstall the panel and secure it with the screws. Turn the water supplies back on, plug the washer back in, and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — the machine should advance to spin when the lid is shut. Tools needed: Multi-screwdriver, socket wrench (some models), work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer agitates and fills but won't spin — is the lid switch the cause?
Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body or worn internal contacts), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin cycle as a safety measure — but agitation and fill still work because those don't require the lid interlock. If your washer runs through wash and agitate normally but stops when it should spin, leaving clothes sopping wet, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed.
What causes the lid switch to fail?
There are two common failure modes. First, the plastic body of the switch can crack over time from the lid being closed hard or slammed repeatedly — the repeated impact stresses the housing until it fractures. Second, the internal electrical contacts wear out from thousands of open/close cycles and can no longer make a reliable connection to signal that the lid is closed. Either way, the fix is the same: replace the lid switch assembly. To extend the life of the new switch, close the lid gently rather than letting it slam.
What's the difference between 3355806 and WP3355806?
These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 3355806 was the original part number and WP3355806 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted) for the same switch. WP3355806VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your laundry center's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The cross-references 520880, AP6008072, and PS11741201 are additional catalog identifiers for the same part.
Does this fit my thin twin or space-saver laundry center?
This lid switch is specifically designed for stacked washer/dryer laundry centers — the "thin twin," space-saver, and similar stacked units from Whirlpool and its related brands. It fits the Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243 series, and a wide range of Kenmore thin twin models, among others. Check your model number against the compatibility list above. If your unit is a standalone (non-stacked) top-load washer, it likely uses a different lid switch — contact our support team with your model number and we'll confirm the correct part.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the fit, 11" harness with round plugs, 7/8" block connector, terminal configuration, and lid-detection function of the original WP3355806 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and related stacked washer/dryer laundry centers.
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A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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XPARTCO W11220230 Washer Water Inlet Valve
The XPARTCO W11220230 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve designed to control the flow of hot and cold water into your washing machine during each cycle. This Water Inlet Valve is a replacement part compatible with specific Maytag, Whirlpool washing machine models. This valve controls water flow into the tub by opening at predetermined points in the cycle. Proper water regulation is necessary for optimum cleaning performance..
Over time, inlet valves can fail due to mineral buildup, electrical issues, or worn internal seals — leading to slow filling, no fill, or continuous water flow. Replacing the valve restores proper water control and helps prevent leaks or cycle errors.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W11220230 Washer Water Valve fixes washers that won’t fill, fill too slowly, or won’t stop filling with water. It controls incoming water flow and restores proper wash cycle operation.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water
Slow water fill during cycles
Water continuously flowing into washer
Incorrect water temperature
Washer stopping due to fill errors
Leaking or stuck inlet valve
Replaces Part Numbers
This water inlet valve replaces the following part numbers:
W11220230, W10853296, 4591408, W10632527, W10758829, W11096268, AWP43504, EAP12349461, PD00042661, AP6329544, PS12349461
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select washers from the following brands:
Whirlpool washers
Maytag washers
Amana washers
Kenmore / Sears washers (select models)
Always verify your washer’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure.
Key Features
Three coil hot and cold water valve.
OEM-equivalent fit, performance, and durability
Restores proper water fill levels and cycle operation
Durable construction resists mineral buildup and wear
Prevents leaks and overfilling issues
Direct replacement for W11220230 valve assembly
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11220230
Part Type
three coil hot and cold water inlet valve.
Application
Top Load / Front Load Washers
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Function
Controls Water Flow
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Safety First — Disconnect Power & Water Supply Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before servicing. Remove the rear or top panel to access the inlet valve. Disconnect water hoses and electrical connectors, then remove the mounting screws to replace the valve. Reconnect hoses securely to avoid leaks and test for proper operation after installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a washer water inlet valve do?
It controls the flow of hot and cold water into the washer. When the valve fails, the washer may not fill properly or may overfill.
Will this fix a washer that won’t fill?
Yes, a faulty inlet valve is one of the most common causes of no-fill or slow-fill issues.
Is this an OEM part?
This is a high-quality aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent standards for performance and durability.
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XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch
The XPARTCO WH12X955 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units (including GE spacemaker and stacked laundry models). The lid switch is a safety component mounted inside the washer lid — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and signals the control that it's safe for the machine to start, agitate, and spin. When the lid closes, the switch activates and the washer can run through its full cycle. If the lid switch fails, the washer typically won't spin or drain, may not start or agitate at all, and clothes are left sitting in water.
This is a complete lid switch assembly with an integrated wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wire harness that routes from the lid down into the washer cabinet). It directly replaces WH12X955, WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363. Installation involves accessing the lid itself — the switch mounts inside the lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units where the washer won't spin, won't drain, won't start, or won't agitate — leaving clothes sitting in water. Complete lid switch assembly with wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions 1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D. Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, OEM6137363. Classic symptom: washer won't spin or drain.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom
Washer won't drain — clothes left sitting in water at the end of the cycle
Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid
Washer won't agitate — the machine won't advance past the fill phase
Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is
Lid switch body cracked from the lid being closed hard over time
Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling that the lid is closed
Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position
Broken or frayed lid switch wiring harness
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH12X955, 278666, AGE25981, AH270219, EA270219, PD00030733, EAP270219, PS270219, AP2045786, WH12X0955, EXPWH12X955
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This lid switch assembly is compatible with select washer/dryer combo units (spacemaker and stacked laundry models) from the following brands:
GE washer/dryer combo units — spacemaker and stacked laundry center models
GE Spacemaker washers — select models
Hotpoint washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
RCA washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
Kenmore / Sears washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models)
Note: This lid switch is specific to GE washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units — it is NOT the same switch used on standalone GE top-load washers, which use different lid switch part numbers. Always search by your appliance model number to confirm this part fits before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Lid switch safety assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and allows the washer to start, agitate, spin, and drain when the lid is shut
Resolves the classic "won't spin" and "won't drain" symptoms of lid switch failure
Complete assembly with integrated wiring harness and ground wire
Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wiring harness)
Mounts inside the washer lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw
Snap-in switch design with connector — no wiring modifications required
Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
DIY-friendly repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH12X955
Part Type
Washer Lid Switch Assembly
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Washer/Dryer Combo & Spacemaker Units (GE platform)
Dimensions
1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D
Includes
Lid switch, wiring harness, ground wire
Function
Prevents washer spin/agitation when lid is open
Location
Inside the washer lid
Mounting
Two screws + separate ground wire screw
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built)
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — The Lid Comes Off Disconnect power at the outlet or breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges. This repair requires removing the washer lid to access the switch. Open the lid, then push it toward the back of the machine to release the plastic clips at the front that hold the lid up. Slowly lift the lid at the front — you'll see the lid switch is the only thing still connecting the lid to the washer body. Confirm the power is off, then unclip the electrical connector that joins the lid switch harness to the washer's wiring (it's typically a molex-style connector). With the connector released, you can carry the lid to a workbench or flat surface to work on it comfortably. On the underside/inside of the lid, remove the two screws on the right-hand side that hold the switch in place, then remove the screw that secures the ground wire to the inside of the lid. Lift out the old switch. The new WH12X955 switch snaps into place — seat it, reinstall the two mounting screws, and reattach the ground wire with its screw. Route the new harness cable through the same path as the old one; you can gently lift the retaining clips with a flathead screwdriver to slide the new cable through. Reconnect the electrical connector, set the lid back into position, and press it down until the front plastic clips engage. Restore power and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer agitates, drains, and spins. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, flathead screwdriver, work gloves. (Tip: if you drop the ground wire nut inside the cabinet, a magnet on a stick makes retrieval easy.)
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't spin or drain — is the lid switch the cause?
Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body, worn internal contacts, or broken wiring), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin and drain phases as a safety measure — leaving your clothes sitting in water. On many GE washer/dryer combos, a failed lid switch will also prevent the machine from starting or agitating at all. If your washer fills but goes no further, or completes the wash but leaves clothes soaked, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is depressed.
Why is this switch 16" long?
The 16" dimension is the length of the wiring harness, not the switch body itself. The switch mounts inside the washer lid, and its harness has to route from the lid, through the hinge area, down into the washer cabinet to reach the main wiring connector. That's why the assembly comes with a long attached cable — and it's also why this repair involves removing the lid to access everything. The switch body itself is compact at roughly 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W.
Does this fit my standalone GE top-load washer?
Probably not. The WH12X955 is specifically used on GE washer/dryer combo units and spacemaker/stacked laundry models. Standalone GE top-load washers use different lid switch part numbers. Because the lid switch design and mounting vary significantly across GE's washer lineup, always search by your appliance model number to confirm the correct part before ordering. If your unit is a standalone top-loader, contact our support team with your model number and we'll identify the right lid switch for it.
Do I really have to take the lid off to install this?
On most compatible models, yes — the lid switch mounts inside the lid itself, so you'll need to release the lid from the washer body to reach the two mounting screws and the ground wire screw. The good news is that the lid comes off fairly easily: push it toward the back to release the front plastic clips, then lift it slowly, unclip the electrical connector, and carry the lid to a comfortable work surface. Working on the lid off the machine is far easier than trying to reach into a cramped laundry closet. Just be sure power is disconnected before unclipping the connector.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D), harness and ground wire configuration, connector, mounting, and lid-detection function of the original WH12X955 lid switch used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
Genuine Whirlpool OEM
Whirlpool WP8577376 Washer Genuine OEM Transmission Shaft Seal
Factory replacement transmission stem / agitator shaft seal for select Whirlpool-built top-load washers.
Product Overview
WP8577376 is a Genuine Whirlpool OEM washer shaft seal. Whirlpool describes it as a washing machine transmission stem seal, while Sears identifies it as an agitator shaft seal.
The seal helps prevent wash water from leaking between the tub mounting stem and the agitator drive shaft, protecting the transmission/drive area from moisture.
Quick Answer
WP8577376 is the current Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement for several older washer shaft and center-post seals. It is commonly used on older Whirlpool-built direct-drive top-load washers.
Common Problems This Part May Fix
Water leaking around the agitator or center-post area
Moisture reaching the transmission or drive system
Worn, cracked, hardened, or missing shaft seal
Leak discovered during tub or transmission service
Replaces and Cross-References
WP8577376, WP91938, 8577376, 91938, 1181094, 356934, 356934BULK, 356934D, 99404, J27-500, J27-661, LP630, LP631, AP6013521, AWP49388, PD00005095, PS11746747
Cross-reference numbers are provided for identification. Always verify the complete appliance model number before ordering.
Compatibility
Fits select Whirlpool-built washers sold under Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Admiral, Amana, Magic Chef, Maytag and related brands. Compatible model examples include:
LSR7233DZ1
LSQ8243HQ0
LSQ8512KQ0
LSQ8543JQ0
LSQ9110PW3
LSQ9544KQ0
LSQ9549LG1
110.10502990
110.16602690
110.73875800
110.71770610
110.73775200
Important: This is only a partial compatibility list. Verify the full washer model number and original seal number before purchase.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement part
Transmission stem / agitator drive shaft sealing function
Helps prevent water intrusion into the drive area
Updated replacement for multiple older shaft-seal numbers
Designed for select Whirlpool-built top-load washers
Product Specifications
Manufacturer Part Number
WP8577376
Brand
Whirlpool
Part Type
Transmission Stem / Agitator Shaft Seal
Condition
New
Part Quality
Genuine OEM
Application
Washer Tub / Transmission Shaft Sealing
Package Quantity
1 Shaft Seal
Installation Notes
Unplug the washer and shut off both water-supply valves before service.
Drain any remaining water and follow the appliance service procedure for tub/drive-system access.
Remove the old shaft seal without damaging the mounting surface or drive shaft.
Clean the sealing surface before installing the replacement.
Install the new seal in the correct orientation and reassemble the washer.
Run a test cycle and inspect carefully for leaks.
Service note: A leak in this area can also involve worn tub seals, a damaged mounting stem, corrosion, or transmission/shaft wear. Inspect related components while the washer is disassembled.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is WP8577376 a Genuine Whirlpool OEM part?
Yes. WP8577376 is a Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement shaft seal.
What does this seal do?
It helps prevent water from leaking between the tub mounting stem and agitator drive shaft.
Does WP8577376 replace 8577376 and 91938?
Yes. Those are among the earlier part numbers superseded by WP8577376.
Is this the complete transmission?
No. This listing is for the shaft seal only. The transmission/gearcase and other seals are not included.
Shop With Confidence
Use your washer's complete model number to confirm fitment before ordering.
Genuine Whirlpool OEM Factory Replacement Compatibility Support Fast U.S. Shipping