Appliance Parts

2092 products

  • Sale -20%Last stock! ERP EAU61524007 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor Exact Replacement Parts

    XPARTCO XPARTCO EAU61524007 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

    XPARTCO EAU61524007 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor 13V, 1.5 W, 0.118A. 1-1/2" shaft. Has quick disconnect. Fits specific LG Refrigerator Models. Description:  This ERP EAU61524007 Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor is designed for reliable and efficient cooling performance. It features the EAU61524007 model, providing optimal airflow and preserving freshness in your refrigerator. Upgrade your appliance with this high-quality fan motor and enjoy the benefits of improved cooling and longer-lasting food. Replaces Part Numbers:EAU61524007, AP5950081, EAU60694510, PS10058947   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.

    $48.40 $38.96

  • Sale -52%Last stock! ERP W10006355 Washer Shift Actuator Replaces WPW10006355 Exact Replacement Parts

    XPARTCO XPARTCO W10006355 Washer Shift Actuator Replaces WPW10006355

    XPARTCO W10006355 Washer Shift Actuator  Fits specific Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool top-load machine models. Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10006355, W10006355, AP6014711, PS11747977. Description: This Shift Actuator is a replacement part for specific Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool washing machine models. It is an electronic component located inside the transmission that controls the shifting between wash cycles. The shift actuator receives signals from the washer control board to change modes, initiating proper movements to advance the cycle.   This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part.

    $56.00 $26.95

  • Sale -48% XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084

    XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084 The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle. Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands: Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more) Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series) KitchenAid top-load washers (select models) Roper top-load washers (select models) Estate top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef top-load washers (select models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Admiral top-load washers (select models) Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61 Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 8318084 OEM Part Number WP8318084 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 125–250V Frequency 50–60 Hz Motor Rating 1/2 HP Dimensions 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H Terminals 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire Color Gray / White Material Plastic housing Location Under the control panel, top rear left corner Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem? Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated. Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell? This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician. What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084? These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch. Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer? No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

    $22.80 $11.95

  • Sale -34%Last stock! W10683603 Washer Water Valve Replaces WPW10683603  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO W10683603 Washer Water Valve Replaces WPW10683603

    XPARTCO W10683603 Washer Water Inlet Valve Replaces WPW10683603 The XPARTCO W10683603 is an aftermarket replacement washer water inlet valve and vacuum break assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool-family top-load washers including Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Inglis, and Admiral. The water inlet valve is a dual solenoid valve mounted on the back of the washer that controls the flow of hot and cold water into the tub. When the washer calls for water, the control board energizes one or both solenoid coils to open the valve and allow water to flow through. A thermistor sensor on the valve monitors incoming water temperature to ensure proper wash temperatures are achieved. When the water inlet valve fails, the washer may not fill at all, fill too slowly, fill only with hot or only with cold water, overfill continuously, or drip water into the tub when it should be closed. This complete valve and vacuum break assembly measures 9-1/4" L x 6-1/4" W x 2" H and is rated 110/120V, 60Hz. It directly replaces WPW10683603, W10423125, W10501149, W10683680, 3451320, and a large number of additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10683603 Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-family top-load washers that won't fill, fill too slowly, fill with only hot or only cold water, overfill, or drip water into the tub between cycles. Dual solenoid hot/cold valve with thermistor and vacuum break assembly. 110/120V, 60Hz. 9-1/4"L x 6-1/4"W x 2"H. Replaces WPW10683603, W10423125, W10501149, W10683680, 3451320. Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Crosley, Inglis, and Admiral top-load washers. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling with water at all when a cycle is started Washer filling very slowly — taking much longer than normal to reach the correct water level Washer filling with only cold water even when a warm or hot wash cycle is selected Washer filling with only hot water even when a cold or warm cycle is selected Washer overfilling or filling continuously — valve stuck open Water dripping or trickling into the tub when the washer is not running — valve not closing completely Water leaking from the back of the washer near the valve body Replaces Part Numbers This water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WPW10683603, W10423125, W10501149, W10683603, W10683680, 3451320, AWP51354, EAP11757114, AP6023768, PD00008561, PS11757114. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select top-load washers from the following brands: Whirlpool top-load washers (WTW, 1CW, CAW, ATW series and more) Maytag top-load washers (MVW series and more) Kenmore / Sears top-load washers (110 series and Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (NTW series and more) KitchenAid top-load washers Roper top-load washers Crosley top-load washers Inglis top-load washers Admiral top-load washers Note: This valve is designed for top-load washers. It is not compatible with Whirlpool front-load washer models. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features Dual solenoid hot and cold water inlet valve — controls water flow into the tub for fill, rinse, and wash cycles Integrated thermistor temperature sensor — monitors incoming water temperature so the control board can achieve the correct wash temperature Includes vacuum break assembly — prevents backflow of wash water into the household water supply Rated 110/120V, 60Hz — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-family top-load washers Dimensions: 9-1/4" L x 6-1/4" W x 2" H Color: White / Red / Blue — hot and cold ports color-coded for correct hose connection Replaces WPW10683603, W10423125, W10501149, W10683680, 3451320, and over 25 additional cross-reference numbers Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Inglis, and Admiral top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–20 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W10683603 OEM Part Number WPW10683603 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve and Vacuum Break Assembly Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Top-Load Washers Valve Type Dual solenoid (hot and cold) with thermistor sensor Voltage 110/120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Dimensions 9-1/4" L x 6-1/4" W x 2" H Color White / Red / Blue (hot/cold color-coded) Includes Water inlet valve and vacuum break assembly Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Inglis, Admiral Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Move the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. The water inlet valve is mounted on the upper rear of the washer cabinet — two supply hoses connect to the back of the valve (red for hot, blue for cold) and internal hoses route water into the tub. Photograph the wire harness connections and hose routing before disconnecting anything. Use pliers to loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the internal hoses. Unscrew the two mounting screws holding the valve to the washer cabinet. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the solenoid coils and thermistor. Remove the old valve and install the new W10683603 in the same position. Reconnect the wire harnesses, internal hoses, and mounting screws. Reconnect the external supply hoses (red to hot, blue to cold), restore water supply and power, and run a fill cycle to check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers. Frequently Asked Questions What does the water inlet valve do? The water inlet valve is a dual solenoid valve that controls the flow of hot and cold water from your household supply lines into the washer tub. When the control board calls for water during a fill or rinse cycle, it sends voltage to one or both solenoid coils — hot, cold, or both — to open the appropriate valve port and allow water to flow in. When the correct water level is reached, the board cuts voltage to the solenoids, closing the valve. The thermistor sensor on the valve monitors incoming water temperature and sends data to the control board to ensure the correct wash temperature is achieved. What is the difference between W10683603 and WPW10683603? These are the same water inlet valve. WPW10683603 is the updated Whirlpool OEM part number that superseded the original W10683603. The W10423125, W10501149, and W10683680 are also cross-references for this same valve from earlier production runs. This aftermarket replacement is compatible with all of these numbers. My washer fills with only cold water — is the water inlet valve the cause? Filling with only cold water when a warm or hot cycle is selected usually means the hot water solenoid coil on the valve has failed. Each solenoid coil controls one valve port independently — a failed hot solenoid means only the cold port opens. You can confirm with a multimeter: test each solenoid coil for continuity — a working coil shows resistance (typically 200–500 ohms), while a failed coil reads open circuit. Before blaming the valve, also check that your household hot water supply is fully open and that hot water is actually reaching the washer's supply hose. Why is water dripping into the tub when the washer is off? A slow drip or trickle of water into the tub when the washer is not running is almost always caused by a water inlet valve that is not closing completely. This can be caused by mineral deposits from hard water partially blocking the valve seat and preventing it from fully sealing, or by a worn valve diaphragm that no longer makes a watertight seal when the solenoid de-energizes. Replacing the water inlet valve resolves this in most cases. If the dripping persists after replacing the valve, check whether the household water pressure is excessively high — very high pressure can force open even a healthy valve. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured from durable plastic and metal to match the dimensions and electrical specifications of the original WPW10683603 water inlet valve assembly. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

    $44.00 $29.00

  • Sale -24% XPARTCO 694089 Dryer Blower Wheel Replaces WP694089  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO XPARTCO 694089 Dryer Blower Wheel Replaces WP694089

    XPARTCO 694089 Dryer Blower Wheel Replaces WP694089 The XPARTCO 694089 is an aftermarket replacement dryer blower wheel compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Caloric, Hardwick, and Glenwood 29-inch dryers with a lint filter on top. The blower wheel works together with the drive motor to create the airflow that makes drying possible — it draws heated air through the heating element, pushes it into and through the drum to evaporate moisture from your clothes, and exhausts it out through the vent system. Without a properly functioning blower wheel, airflow drops, drying times increase dramatically, and the dryer may overheat. Measures 8-5/8" in diameter. Mounts on the motor's blower shaft with left-hand threads — to remove the old blower wheel, turn it clockwise (the reverse of standard threading). This blower wheel fits dryers where the motor is mounted in the rear of the cabinet, not the front. Common causes of failure: the internal sleeve wears out over time, allowing the wheel to wobble on the motor shaft; lint, socks, or small clothing articles escape past the lint filter and jam the wheel; or the plastic fins crack and break from age or debris impact. It directly replaces WP694089, WP694089VP, AP6010602, 279500, 279711, 299678, 338840, 343939, 343941, 686172, 695499, DE601, PS11743785, AH383953, EA383953, and PS383953. Installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 694089 Dryer Blower Wheel fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Estate, and Admiral 29" dryers that take too long to dry, make loud thumping/rattling/scraping noises, have weak airflow, or won't tumble. 8-5/8" diameter. Left-hand threads (turn clockwise to remove). Fits rear-mounted motor dryers with lint filter on top. Replaces WP694089, WP694089VP, AP6010602, 279500, 279711, 299678, 338840, 343939, 343941, 686172, 695499, DE601, PS11743785. Check for trapped lint, socks, or debris before replacing — a jammed wheel may not be broken. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer takes too long to dry clothes — reduced airflow from a worn or damaged blower wheel Loud thumping, rattling, or scraping noise during operation — debris caught in the wheel or broken fins Weak or no airflow from the exhaust vent — wheel wobbling or not spinning properly Clothes still damp at the end of the cycle — inadequate air circulation Dryer overheating — restricted airflow causing heat buildup Blower wheel wobbling on the motor shaft — worn internal sleeve Sock, small garment, or lint clump jammed in the blower wheel Blower wheel fins cracked or broken from debris impact or age Dryer running but drum not turning — severely damaged wheel preventing motor from spinning Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dryer blower wheel directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP694089, 694089, 279500, 279711, 299678, 338840, 343939, 343941, 695499, DE601, PD00002470, EAP11743785, AP6010602, AWP48132, OEM18031815, PS11743785 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Note: some Whirlpool dryers use a different blower wheel (such as the 697772) — verify your original part number or model number before ordering. Compatibility This blower wheel is compatible with select 29-inch dryers with a lint filter on top from the following brands: Whirlpool dryers — 29" models with lint filter on top and rear-mounted motor (WED, LER, LEQ, LE series and related) Kenmore / Sears dryers — select Whirlpool-built models (110-series) Maytag dryers (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid dryers (select models) Jenn-Air dryers (select models) Amana dryers (select models) Magic Chef dryers (select models) Admiral dryers (select models) Roper dryers (select models) Estate dryers (select models) Crosley, Inglis, Caloric, Hardwick, Glenwood dryers (select Whirlpool-built models) Note: This blower wheel fits dryers where the motor is mounted in the rear of the cabinet (not the front). If your dryer has the motor in the front, this is not the correct blower wheel. Confirm your dryer model number before ordering. Also: before replacing the blower wheel due to noise, check for trapped lint, socks, or small garments caught in the wheel — clearing the debris may resolve the noise without needing a new part. Key Features Dryer blower wheel — draws heated air through the heating element, circulates it through the drum, and exhausts it through the vent system Resolves "takes too long to dry," "loud noise," "weak airflow," "overheating," and "clothes still damp" symptoms when caused by a worn or damaged blower wheel 8-5/8" diameter — matches the original OEM dimensions Left-hand threads — mounts on the motor's blower shaft (turn clockwise to remove, counterclockwise to install) Designed for 29" Whirlpool-built dryers with lint filter on top and rear-mounted motor Replaces WP694089, WP694089VP, AP6010602, 279500, 279711, 299678, 338840, 343939, 343941, 686172, 695499, DE601, PS11743785, AH383953, EA383953, and PS383953 Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, and more Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 694089 OEM Part Number WP694089 Part Type Dryer Blower Wheel Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application 29" Dryers with Lint Filter on Top (Whirlpool platform) Diameter 8-5/8" Threading Left-hand threads (clockwise to remove) Motor Position Rear-mounted motor (not front-mounted) Function Circulates heated air through the drum and out the exhaust vent Location Attached to the motor's blower shaft inside the blower housing Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Caloric, Hardwick, Glenwood Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect Power Before Starting — 240V Circuit (Electric) or Gas Line (Gas) — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power at the breaker before beginning — electric dryers operate on a 240V circuit. For gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. Wear work gloves and safety glasses. Pull the dryer away from the wall. Access the blower wheel by removing the dryer's back panel — remove the screws securing the rear panel and set it aside. Locate the blower housing at the bottom rear of the dryer, connected to the motor. The blower wheel is inside this housing, mounted on the motor's blower shaft. Remove the blower housing cover or clamp to expose the wheel. Important: the blower wheel has left-hand threads. To remove the old blower wheel, turn it clockwise (the opposite of standard threading). If the wheel is stuck on the shaft, hold the motor pulley on the other end of the shaft to prevent it from turning while you unscrew the wheel. If the old wheel's plastic hub has seized on the shaft from age, you may need to use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry it — some customers report the old wheel breaks apart during removal, which is fine since you're replacing it. Before installing the new wheel, clean out any lint, debris, socks, or clothing articles from the blower housing. Thread the new 694089 blower wheel onto the motor shaft counterclockwise (remember: left-hand threads — counterclockwise tightens). Tighten firmly by hand. Reassemble the blower housing, reinstall the rear panel, push the dryer back into place, and restore power. Run a test cycle and check airflow at the exhaust vent. Tools needed: Nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, flat-blade screwdriver, work gloves, safety glasses. Frequently Asked Questions My dryer is making a loud thumping or rattling noise — is the blower wheel the cause? It's one of the most common causes of dryer noise, yes. There are two main ways the blower wheel causes noise: first, lint, socks, or small clothing articles can escape past the lint filter and get caught in the wheel, where they hit the housing with each rotation — producing a rhythmic thumping or scraping sound. Second, the wheel's internal sleeve can wear out over time, allowing the wheel to wobble loosely on the motor shaft, which creates a rattling or vibrating noise. Before ordering a new wheel, check for trapped debris first — pull the back panel and inspect the blower housing. Clearing a stuck sock may solve the problem immediately. If the wheel wobbles freely on the shaft or has cracked/broken fins, it needs replacement. Why does the blower wheel have left-hand threads? The left-hand (reverse) threading is by design. The motor shaft spins in a direction that would naturally loosen a standard right-hand threaded wheel over time. By using left-hand threads, the motor's rotation actually tightens the wheel onto the shaft during operation, preventing it from working loose while the dryer runs. This means: turn clockwise to remove the old wheel (opposite of what you'd expect), and turn counterclockwise to tighten the new wheel onto the shaft. Many customers get stuck at this step because they instinctively turn counterclockwise to loosen — so if the wheel seems stuck, try turning it the other way first. My dryer takes forever to dry — is the blower wheel the issue? It can be, but check the easier things first. Long drying times are usually caused by restricted airflow, and the most common culprit is a clogged or kinked exhaust vent hose — clean the entire vent path from the dryer to the outside wall first. Also clean the lint filter and check the lint trap housing for buildup. If the vent system is clear and drying times are still long, the blower wheel is a strong candidate: a worn sleeve that lets the wheel wobble reduces its ability to move air efficiently, and cracked fins reduce airflow even if the wheel still spins. You can test by running the dryer and checking the airflow at the outside exhaust vent — weak or no airflow with a clear vent path points to the blower wheel. Does this fit dryers with the motor in the front? No — the 694089 blower wheel is designed for 29" Whirlpool-platform dryers where the motor is mounted in the rear of the cabinet. If your dryer has the motor in the front, it uses a different blower wheel. The easiest way to confirm: look at the back of the dryer — if you can see the motor and blower housing when the rear panel is removed, the motor is in the rear and this wheel fits (verify your model number too). If the motor is accessible from the front, this is not the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number and we'll confirm. The old blower wheel is stuck on the shaft — how do I get it off? First, make sure you're turning it the right direction — this has left-hand threads, so turn clockwise to loosen (the opposite of normal). If it's truly stuck from age or corrosion: hold the motor pulley on the other end of the shaft with one hand (or use pliers wrapped in a cloth) to keep the shaft from spinning, then turn the blower wheel clockwise with the other hand. If the plastic hub has seized, a flat-blade screwdriver can help gently pry it. In many cases, an old seized blower wheel will crack and break apart during removal — that's perfectly fine since you're replacing it anyway. Just make sure all the old pieces are cleared from the blower housing before installing the new wheel. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the 8-5/8" diameter, left-hand threading, sleeve, fin design, and airflow function of the original WP694089 blower wheel used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and related 29" dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

    $22.00 $16.65

  • Sale -40%Last stock! 3387134 - 3392519 Thermostat and Thermal Fuse Kit Replaces WP3387134, WP3392519

    XPARTCO 3387134 - 3392519 Dryer Thermostat and Thermal Fuse Kit Replaces WP3387134, WP3392519

    XPARTCO 3387134 - 3392519 Dryer Cycling Thermostat and Thermal Fuse Set - Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag Product Description Maintain safe and efficient dryer operation with the XPARTCO 3387134 - 3392519 Dryer Cycling Thermostat and Thermal Fuse Set. This replacement kit includes one cycling thermostat (3387134, L155-25) and one thermal fuse (3392519), designed as a replacement for select Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and other compatible dryers. The cycling thermostat regulates drum temperature, while the thermal fuse prevents overheating by cutting power if temperatures exceed safe limits. This set addresses issues like overheating, insufficient heat, no heat, or prolonged drying times. Test the thermal fuse first if the dryer won't heat, as it typically fails before the thermostat. Note: Includes (1) cycling thermostat and (1) thermal fuse. Disconnect power before installation. Verify compatibility with your dryer model. Replaces part numbers: Cycling Thermostat: WP3387134, 3387134, 3387135, 3387139, 3-6910, 306910, 326801, 661512, L150-15F, L155-25F, AP6008270, PS11741405. Thermal Fuse: 3392519, WP3392519, 3388651, WE4X857, G4AP0500, 6L4101091C, ET401, 3388651, 694511, 80005, PS11741460, AP6008325. Compatibility: Compatible with select dryer models, including but not limited to: Whirlpool: LE5700XKW0, LE5920XKW0, WED4815EW1, WED4910XQ1, WED5300SQ0 Kenmore: 110.97591420, 110.97591220, 110.97592420, 110.60072990 Maytag: MDE5500AYW, MDE6000AYW, MDE7600AYW Roper: RED4440VQ1, REX5634KQ1 Amana: NED4655EW0 KitchenAid: KEYE760WWH0 Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance. Key Features: ✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Roper, Amana, KitchenAid, and other dryers. 🔧 Specifications: Replacement kit with one cycling thermostat (L155-25 SPST, 120V, 2W) and one thermal fuse (250°F limit, non-resettable). 💪 Reliable Performance: Regulates drum temperature and prevents overheating for safe, efficient drying. 🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires a screwdriver and pliers; typically installed in 15–30 minutes. 🛡️ Effective Fixes: Resolves overheating, insufficient heat, no heat, or prolonged drying times. Product Specification Part Number: XPARTCO 3387134 - 3392519 Component Type: Dryer cycling thermostat and thermal fuse kit Material: Plastic and metal Electrical Specs: Cycling Thermostat: 120V, 2W; L155-25 SPST, opens at 155°F, closes at 130°F  Thermal Fuse: 250°F limit, 125/250V, non-resettable Compliance: Prop 65 warning for California Installation Notes: Safety First: Disconnect the dryer from the power source before installation. Shop for high-quality appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Keep your dryer running safely and efficiently today! Add to cart now for a reliable fix!

    $20.00 $11.96

  • Sale -55% XPARTCO 3355806 Washer lid Switch Replaces WP3355806  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch

    XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch The XPARTCO WH12X955 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units (including GE spacemaker and stacked laundry models). The lid switch is a safety component mounted inside the washer lid — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and signals the control that it's safe for the machine to start, agitate, and spin. When the lid closes, the switch activates and the washer can run through its full cycle. If the lid switch fails, the washer typically won't spin or drain, may not start or agitate at all, and clothes are left sitting in water. This is a complete lid switch assembly with an integrated wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wire harness that routes from the lid down into the washer cabinet). It directly replaces WH12X955, WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363. Installation involves accessing the lid itself — the switch mounts inside the lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units where the washer won't spin, won't drain, won't start, or won't agitate — leaving clothes sitting in water. Complete lid switch assembly with wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions 1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D. Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, OEM6137363. Classic symptom: washer won't spin or drain. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom Washer won't drain — clothes left sitting in water at the end of the cycle Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — the machine won't advance past the fill phase Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is Lid switch body cracked from the lid being closed hard over time Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling that the lid is closed Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Broken or frayed lid switch wiring harness Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH12X955, 278666, AGE25981, AH270219, EA270219, PD00030733, EAP270219, PS270219, AP2045786, WH12X0955, EXPWH12X955 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select washer/dryer combo units (spacemaker and stacked laundry models) from the following brands: GE washer/dryer combo units — spacemaker and stacked laundry center models GE Spacemaker washers — select models Hotpoint washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) RCA washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) Note: This lid switch is specific to GE washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units — it is NOT the same switch used on standalone GE top-load washers, which use different lid switch part numbers. Always search by your appliance model number to confirm this part fits before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Lid switch safety assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and allows the washer to start, agitate, spin, and drain when the lid is shut Resolves the classic "won't spin" and "won't drain" symptoms of lid switch failure Complete assembly with integrated wiring harness and ground wire Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wiring harness) Mounts inside the washer lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw Snap-in switch design with connector — no wiring modifications required Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY-friendly repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WH12X955 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Washer/Dryer Combo & Spacemaker Units (GE platform) Dimensions 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D Includes Lid switch, wiring harness, ground wire Function Prevents washer spin/agitation when lid is open Location Inside the washer lid Mounting Two screws + separate ground wire screw Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — The Lid Comes Off Disconnect power at the outlet or breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges. This repair requires removing the washer lid to access the switch. Open the lid, then push it toward the back of the machine to release the plastic clips at the front that hold the lid up. Slowly lift the lid at the front — you'll see the lid switch is the only thing still connecting the lid to the washer body. Confirm the power is off, then unclip the electrical connector that joins the lid switch harness to the washer's wiring (it's typically a molex-style connector). With the connector released, you can carry the lid to a workbench or flat surface to work on it comfortably. On the underside/inside of the lid, remove the two screws on the right-hand side that hold the switch in place, then remove the screw that secures the ground wire to the inside of the lid. Lift out the old switch. The new WH12X955 switch snaps into place — seat it, reinstall the two mounting screws, and reattach the ground wire with its screw. Route the new harness cable through the same path as the old one; you can gently lift the retaining clips with a flathead screwdriver to slide the new cable through. Reconnect the electrical connector, set the lid back into position, and press it down until the front plastic clips engage. Restore power and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer agitates, drains, and spins. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, flathead screwdriver, work gloves. (Tip: if you drop the ground wire nut inside the cabinet, a magnet on a stick makes retrieval easy.) Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin or drain — is the lid switch the cause? Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body, worn internal contacts, or broken wiring), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin and drain phases as a safety measure — leaving your clothes sitting in water. On many GE washer/dryer combos, a failed lid switch will also prevent the machine from starting or agitating at all. If your washer fills but goes no further, or completes the wash but leaves clothes soaked, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is depressed. Why is this switch 16" long? The 16" dimension is the length of the wiring harness, not the switch body itself. The switch mounts inside the washer lid, and its harness has to route from the lid, through the hinge area, down into the washer cabinet to reach the main wiring connector. That's why the assembly comes with a long attached cable — and it's also why this repair involves removing the lid to access everything. The switch body itself is compact at roughly 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W. Does this fit my standalone GE top-load washer? Probably not. The WH12X955 is specifically used on GE washer/dryer combo units and spacemaker/stacked laundry models. Standalone GE top-load washers use different lid switch part numbers. Because the lid switch design and mounting vary significantly across GE's washer lineup, always search by your appliance model number to confirm the correct part before ordering. If your unit is a standalone top-loader, contact our support team with your model number and we'll identify the right lid switch for it. Do I really have to take the lid off to install this? On most compatible models, yes — the lid switch mounts inside the lid itself, so you'll need to release the lid from the washer body to reach the two mounting screws and the ground wire screw. The good news is that the lid comes off fairly easily: push it toward the back to release the front plastic clips, then lift it slowly, unclip the electrical connector, and carry the lid to a comfortable work surface. Working on the lid off the machine is far easier than trying to reach into a cramped laundry closet. Just be sure power is disconnected before unclipping the connector. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D), harness and ground wire configuration, connector, mounting, and lid-detection function of the original WH12X955 lid switch used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

    $36.90 $16.50

  • Sale -37%Last stock! (5 Pack) EXP15A Ceramic Microwave Fuse, Fast Blow 15A Exact Replacement Parts

    Exact Replacement Parts (5 Pack) EXP15A Ceramic Microwave Fuse, Fast Blow 15A

    (5 Pack) EXP15A Ceramic Microwave Fuse Fast Blow 15A, 250V Replaces Part Numbers: WB27X7, 14QBP15CFB, AP2626454, PS240270, M0805102, AP6014670, WPM0805102, 3601-001197, PS4131368, AP4046099, PS239596, AP3189379, WB08T10027, WB2X8151, WB27X10454. This is an aftermarket part that can be used as a replacement for the OEM part. California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

    $13.50 $8.50

  • Sale -38%Last stock! XPARTCO WR57X33326 (OE) Refrigerator Water Valve  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO XPARTCO WR57X33326 (OE) Refrigerator Water Valve

    XPARTCO WR57X33326 Refrigerator OE Water Valve – Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, and Crosley Refrigerators Product Description Restore proper water and ice dispensing with the XPARTCO WR57X33326 Refrigerator OE Water Valve. This high-quality OE (Original Equipment) replacement regulates water flow from your home supply to the ice maker and dispenser. A worn or leaking valve can cause reduced ice production, no water dispensing, or unwanted drips. This OE-grade part delivers the same performance, fit, and reliability as the factory original — at a better value. What is OE ?: “OE (Original Equipment) parts are manufactured to meet the same specifications, materials, and performance standards as the original factory-installed components. XPARTCO parts are engineered to provide equivalent fit and function to OEM components while offering reliable quality at a competitive price.” Replaces Part Numbers WR57X33326, WR57X10032, WR32X10032, WR57X10040, WR57X10064, PD00063637, AP6995571, PS16226572, WR57X10051, WR57X10012, 1032629, IMV-513, IMV513, WR02X10105, WR2X10105, WR57X0092, WR57X0098, WR57X0099, WR57X0104, WR57X0111, WR57X0119, WR57X10010, WR57X10018, WR57X10018E, WR57X10051-25PK, WR57X104, WR57X111, WR57X119, WR57X92, WR57X98, WR57X99, AH901314, EA901314,  AP3672839, PS901314. Compatibility This OE water valve is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Crosley refrigerators. Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): GE GSS25GSHRCSS, GE GFE29HSDASS, and Hotpoint HSS25IFMDWW. Always verify your refrigerator’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. ✅ Key Features 🔄 OE Replacement – Matches the performance and fit of the original factory part 💧 Consistent Water Flow – Controls water supply to the dispenser and ice maker 💰 Reliable Value – OE quality at a lower cost than OEM retail pricing 🛠️ DIY Installation – Installs easily with standard household tools 🛡️ Fixes Common Issues – Resolves leaks, no-ice, or water-dispensing failures 📐 Product Specification Part Number: WR57X33326 Component Type: Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Material: Reinforced plastic with dual solenoid control Mounting: Direct-fit replacement located on rear refrigerator panel Operating Conditions: Designed for standard household water pressure Compliance: OE (Original Equipment) quality – same form, fit, and function as OEM 🛠️ Installation Notes Tools Needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench, pliers ⚠️ Safety First: Unplug refrigerator and turn off water supply before beginning repairs. Steps: Disconnect refrigerator from power and shut off water supply. Remove rear access panel to expose the valve assembly. Detach inlet tubing and wiring connectors from the old valve. Unscrew and remove the defective valve. Mount the new XPARTCO WR57X33326 valve in place, reconnect wiring and hoses. Reinstall the access panel, turn on water and power, then test dispenser and ice maker. ⏱️ Time Required: 20–25 minutes 📦 Shop With Confidence 🚚 Free Shipping on All Orders 🛠️ Trusted Appliance Parts Supplier 🔄 30-Day Return Policy Bring your refrigerator’s water system back to life — Add to Cart Now for an OE-quality replacement built to last!

    $88.90 $55.10

  • Sale -31%Last stock! XPARTCO W11175771 Dishwasher Water Valve  Parts-O-Matic

    XPARTCO XPARTCO W11175771 Dishwasher Water Valve

    XPARTCO W11175771 Dishwasher Water Valve Product Overview The XPARTCO W11175771 Dishwasher Water Valve controls the flow of water into your dishwasher during the fill cycle. This high-quality aftermarket inlet valve ensures the proper amount of water enters the unit, allowing for efficient and effective cleaning performance. Quick Answer If your dishwasher is not filling with water, filling too slowly, or not cleaning properly, the W11175771 water valve may be faulty. Replacing it restores proper water flow and washing performance. Replaces Part Numbers Replaces OEM part number: W11175771, W10195047, W10327250, W10872255, W11130744, EAP12578165, AWP43823, PD00052484, AP6339872, PS12578165, WPW10327249, W10327249, W10316814, 3015511, W11130743, PD00052484, EAP12578165, AP6019618, PS11752927. Compatibility This dishwasher water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and other compatible dishwashers. Example compatible models include (but are not limited to): Whirlpool WDF520PADM7, WDT750SAKZ0 KitchenAid KDFE204KPS0 Maytag MDB4949SHZ0 Kenmore 665.13242K701 Always verify your dishwasher’s model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you’re unsure. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher not filling with water Slow or weak water fill Dishes not cleaning properly Water flow issues during wash cycle Key Features Controls water intake during fill cycle Ensures proper water flow High-quality aftermarket replacement Durable and reliable construction Product Specifications Part Number: XPW11175771 Part Type: Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Brand: XPARTCO Condition: New OEM / Aftermarket: Aftermarket Application: Dishwasher Water Fill System Troubleshooting Guide No water entering → Faulty valve Slow fill → Clogged or weak valve Poor cleaning → Insufficient water supply When Should You Replace This Valve? Replace this valve if your dishwasher fails to fill with water, fills too slowly, or does not clean dishes effectively. Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect power and water supply before installation. Access the inlet valve from the bottom or rear of the unit and install securely according to your dishwasher model. Related Parts Dishwasher Float Switch Circulation Pump Drain Pump Frequently Asked Questions Will this valve fit my dishwasher?This valve fits many Whirlpool and compatible models. Always verify your model number. What does a water inlet valve do?It controls the amount of water entering the dishwasher. What are signs of a bad valve?No fill, slow fill, or poor cleaning performance. Is this OEM or aftermarket?This is a high-quality aftermarket replacement part. Shop With Confidence Parts-O-Matic is a U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We offer fast shipping, reliable products, and expert support. Fast Shipping Quality Tested Parts Compatibility Support  

    $33.00 $22.65

  • Sale -45%Last stock! WR50X10068 Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

    XPARTCO XPARTCO WR50X10068 Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

    WR50X10068 Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat – Replacement for GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore Product Overview This Defrost Thermostat is a replacement part designed for use in select GE refrigerator models. This component acts as a safety device in the refrigerator's defrost system, preventing the freezer from overheating during the defrost cycle. It works by monitoring the temperature of the evaporator coil and turning off the defrost heater when the coil gets warm enough, thus safeguarding the freezer from getting too hot.  Defrost thermostat for refrigerator or freezer L140-30F. 6" long wire, wire connectors not included. Replaces Part Numbers This thermostat replaces WR50X10068, WR50X10015, WR50X10017, WR50X10018, WR50X10028, WR50X10051, WR50X10052, WR50X10053, WR50X10054, WR50X10074, WR50X10075, WR50X10079, L140-30F, AH1017716, EA1017716, AP3884317, PS1017716.  It is designed to match OEM performance and fit in a wide range of GE and GE-built refrigerator models. Compatible Brands Compatible with refrigerators from GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore models manufactured by GE. Suitable for top-freezer and side-by-side configurations that use a defrost thermostat with this part number. Fixes the Following Issues Frost or ice buildup in freezer Refrigerator not defrosting Poor airflow and cooling performance Defrost cycle not activating Why Buy from Express Parts Direct Cost-effective aftermarket alternative Fast and free shipping across the U.S. Trusted by appliance technicians and DIY users Easy to install and reliable in performance

    $20.00 $10.95

  • Sale -23% 4342528 Gas Oven Genuine Round Igniter  Parts-O-Matic

    Whirlpool 4342528 Gas Oven Genuine Round Igniter

    4342528 Gas Oven Genuine Round Igniter – OEM Replacement for Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, KitchenAid 🔥 Product Overview Restore reliable ignition to your gas oven with the 4342528 Genuine Round Igniter, an OEM replacement designed to provide fast and consistent heating. Compatible with many gas ovens from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Maytag, and KitchenAid, this part is essential for proper bake and broil function. This igniter replaces most round style oven igniters. Includes two high temp wire connectors. Range: 2.5 to 3.0 amps. Does not replace flat style igniters. Caution: the dark grey coil is very fragile, handle with care. Igniter fits Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, Maytag, Magic Chef, Kenmore, and others. If your oven isn’t heating or takes too long to ignite, a worn igniter is a common cause. This round-style igniter is manufactured to original specifications for dependable performance and long service life. 🔧 Key Features Replaces OEM part number: 4342528, 300259, 3196447, 321342, 327617, 337263, 337389, 337390, 3422, 4157446, 4322910, 4332948, 4338008, 4338037, 4342528VP, 4389493, 8053999, AH360921, EA360921, F16-569, GR403, K16866, AP3104565, PS360921. 🔥 Genuine round-style gas oven igniter ⚡ Provides quick and steady ignition for bake/broil functions 🧰 Includes connector plug and mounting bracket ✅ Designed to meet or exceed OEM performance and safety standards 🏷️ Compatible Brands Whirlpool Kenmore Roper KitchenAid Estate Maytag 💡 Tip: Always match your oven’s model number to confirm compatibility before purchase. 💡 Why Buy from Parts-O-Matic 🚚 Free shipping across the U.S. 🛠️ OEM-quality parts — not aftermarket knockoffs 🧑🔧 Trusted by homeowners and appliance repair techs ✅ Satisfaction guaranteed

    $63.20 $48.50

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