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AAS73229402 Genuine OEM LG Washer Tub to Pump Hose The AAS73229402 is a Genuine OEM LG replacement tub-to-pump hose (also called a drain pump bellows assembly) compatible with a wide range of LG and Kenmore washing machines. This hose carries water from the outer tub to the drain pump, allowing the used wash and rinse water to properly empty from the tub during the drain cycle. It features flexible bellows that let the hose expand and contract as the tub moves during operation, while forming a watertight connection between the tub and the pump. When this hose cracks, splits, or develops porous areas, water leaks out during draining — typically showing up as a puddle under the washer. Made of durable rubber engineered to resist wear through years of flexing and water exposure. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by LG to factory specifications, the AAS73229402 directly replaces AP6973533, AGM76891101, AHA75673401, and AEM74073303. This is one of those repairs where using the exact OEM hose matters — the correct fit and internal diameter ensure proper drainage and a leak-free seal, which unverified substitute hoses can't always guarantee. Installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The AAS73229402 Genuine OEM LG Washer Tub to Pump Hose fixes LG and Kenmore washers that leak water under the machine during or after draining, don't fully drain the tub, leave standing water, or develop mold in the pump housing. Tub-to-pump hose / drain pump bellows assembly with flexible bellows — carries water from the outer tub to the drain pump. Genuine OEM. Replaces AP6973533, AGM76891101, AHA75673401, AEM74073303. Compatible with LG front-load and top-load washers plus select Kenmore models. Use the exact OEM hose for correct fit and diameter. Common Problems This Part Fixes Water leaking or puddling under the washer during or after the drain cycle Washer not fully draining — water left in the tub after the cycle Excess water left in the tub requiring additional emptying Drips or leaks from the tub-to-pump connection Standing water or mold growth inside the pump housing Hose visibly cracked, split, or showing porous/worn areas Hose no longer staying securely attached to the tub or pump Musty/moldy smell from water trapped by a leaking or sagging hose Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This tub-to-pump hose directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: AAS73229402, AAS73229405, AAS73229403, AGM76891101, AP6973533, PS12738715, ALG52189, PD00071151. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. For a proper leak-free seal, use the exact OEM hose rather than an unverified substitute — the correct fit and internal diameter matter. Compatibility This tub-to-pump hose is compatible with select LG and Kenmore washing machines, including front-load and top-load models: LG front-load washers — select WM-series models LG top-load washers — select WT-series models (including WT7305CV and related) LG washers using the AAS73229402 tub-to-pump bellows hose (verify with your parts diagram) Kenmore / Sears washers — select LG-built models Because LG uses several different tub-to-pump and drain hoses across its washer lineup, always verify your appliance model number before ordering to confirm the AAS73229402 is the correct hose for your machine. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by LG to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Tub-to-pump hose (drain pump bellows assembly) — carries water from the outer tub to the drain pump for proper draining Flexible bellows design — expands and contracts as the tub moves during operation while keeping a watertight seal Resolves "leaking under the washer," "won't fully drain," "standing water," and "mold in pump housing" symptoms when caused by a failed hose Durable rubber construction engineered to resist cracking, splitting, and porosity over years of use Correct OEM fit and internal diameter for proper drainage and a leak-free seal Replaces AP6973533, AGM76891101, AHA75673401, and AEM74073303 Compatible with LG front-load (WM-series) and top-load (WT-series) washers, plus select Kenmore LG-built models Genuine OEM — the exact part sourced from the manufacturer DIY repair — installs in 30–60 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number AAS73229402 Part Type Washer Tub-to-Pump Hose (Drain Pump Bellows Assembly) Condition Genuine OEM Application Front-Load & Top-Load Washing Machines (LG platform) Function Carries water from the outer tub to the drain pump Design Flexible bellows (expands/contracts with tub movement) Material Rubber Location Between the outer tub and the drain pump Compatible Brands LG, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — Drain the Tub First Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Drain any excess water from the washer before starting — the tub and hose still hold water that will spill out when you disconnect the hose, so have towels and a shallow pan ready. Pull the washer away from the wall to access the panels (on many models you can leave the water supply hoses connected and just unplug the electrical cord). The hose is accessed by removing the rear panel: remove the screws (often 4) securing the rear panel to the back of the washer and set the panel aside. On some front-load models, the top panel is removed instead — remove the top panel bracket screws, slide the top toward the rear, and lift it off. Locate the tub-to-pump hose connecting the outer tub to the drain pump. Photograph the hose routing and clamp positions before disconnecting. Use slip-joint pliers to squeeze and slide back the spring hose clamps at each end of the hose (and loosen any center clamp with a screwdriver). Pull the old hose straight off both connections. Note: on some models the clamp on the pump differs from other nearby hose clamps — mark them so you reinstall each in the right spot. Install the new AAS73229402 hose, seating it fully onto both the tub and pump fittings, and secure the clamps in their original positions using the existing clamps. Make sure the hose is seated all the way on and the clamps are secure — a hose that isn't fully seated will leak and make a large mess. Reinstall the panel, push the washer back into place, restore power and water, and run a rinse/spin cycle to test drainage and check for leaks. Tip: some people find it easier to tip the washer up a few inches on a couple of 2x4s for better access. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, slip-joint pliers, towels, shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions There's a puddle under my LG washer — is this hose the cause? It's one of the most common causes, yes. The tub-to-pump hose carries water under pressure from the tub to the drain pump, so when it cracks, splits, or develops a porous spot, water escapes during the drain cycle and puddles under the machine. Before ordering, inspect the hose and its connections: pull the washer out, remove the rear (or top) panel, and look for visible cracks, splits, or wet spots along the hose and at the clamps. Also check the drain pump itself and the other hoses, since a leak can come from several nearby points. If the tub-to-pump hose shows damage or the leak traces to it, this is the correct part. Many people replace the drain pump and hoses together as a "while you're in there" repair. What's the difference between the tub-to-pump hose and the drain hose? They're two different hoses. The tub-to-pump hose (this part, AAS73229402) is an internal hose that carries water from the outer tub to the drain pump inside the washer cabinet. The drain hose is the external hose that carries the water from the pump out of the washer to your standpipe, sink, or drain. If your leak is inside the cabinet or under the machine, it's often the internal tub-to-pump hose. If water is leaking where the external hose meets your drain, that's the drain hose. Make sure you're ordering the right one for your symptom. Can I use an aftermarket substitute hose instead? We recommend the exact OEM hose. Tub-to-pump hoses have to match the specific fit and internal diameter of your washer's tub and pump fittings to seal properly and drain correctly. Appliance technicians specifically caution against using unverified substitute hoses on LG washers because an incorrect fit or diameter can cause leaks or drainage problems. The AAS73229402 is the genuine OEM part with the correct dimensions for the models it fits, giving you a reliable, leak-free seal. If you're unsure whether this is the right hose for your model, send us your model number and we'll confirm. My washer won't drain fully and leaves standing water — is it this hose? It can be, though incomplete draining has a few possible causes. A tub-to-pump hose that has partially collapsed, kinked, or is leaking can reduce the water flow to the pump and leave water behind. But standing water is also commonly caused by a clogged pump, a blocked hose, or a failing drain pump. Inspect the tub-to-pump hose for kinks, sagging, cracks, and blockages first. Also check the drain pump inlet and clean out any debris. If the hose is damaged, replacing it with the AAS73229402 restores proper flow. If the hose is fine, the drain pump or a blockage is the more likely cause. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by LG to factory specifications. It is the exact same tub-to-pump hose (drain pump bellows assembly) installed in compatible LG and Kenmore LG-built washers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance, sourced directly from the manufacturer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 12138200000320 Dryer Door Catch The XPARTCO 12138200000320 is an aftermarket replacement dryer door catch compatible with select Midea and Insignia dryers. The door catch is a small plastic spring-clip mechanism mounted on the dryer door that snaps over the door strike o12138200000320 n the cabinet opening to hold the door firmly closed during operation. When the door is closed and latched, the door switch is activated — signaling the control board that it is safe to run. When the catch breaks, cracks, or loses its spring tension, the door will not stay closed, the door switch will not activate properly, and the dryer will either not start or will stop mid-cycle. This is a snap-in replacement catch — the color or exact finish may vary by production run. It directly replaces AP7152622 and PS18161385. Sold individually. Installs in under 5 minutes — no tools required in most cases. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 12138200000320 Dryer Door Catch fixes Midea and Insignia dryers where the door won't stay closed, pops open during a cycle, or where the dryer won't start because the door switch isn't being activated. Snap-in installation — no tools required, installs in under 5 minutes. Sold individually. Replaces AP7152622, PS18161385. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer door will not stay closed during the drying cycle Door pops open mid-cycle, stopping the dryer Dryer will not start — door switch not being activated by a worn or broken catch Door feels loose or does not click shut firmly when closed Door catch visibly cracked, broken, or missing Dryer requires the door to be held or pushed to stay running Replaces Part Numbers This door catch directly replaces the following part numbers: 12138200000320, AP7152622, PS18161385. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This door catch is compatible with select dryers from the following brands: Midea dryers (gas and electric — select models) Insignia dryers (select models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Holds the dryer door closed and activates the door switch so the dryer can run safely Snap-in installation — no tools required in most cases; installs in under 5 minutes Durable plastic construction — designed to withstand repeated opening and closing Sold individually — one door catch per order Replaces AP7152622 and PS18161385 Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number 12138200000320 Part Type Dryer Door Catch (Door Latch Clip) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Gas and Electric Dryers Material Plastic Installation Snap-in — no tools required Sold As Single door catch Compatible Brands Midea, Insignia Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting Disconnect power before beginning. Open the dryer door and locate the old door catch — it is a small plastic clip mounted on the inside of the door or on the cabinet opening around the door. Press the tabs on the old catch to release it from its mounting slot and pull it free. Note the orientation before removing. Insert the new 12138200000320 catch into the slot in the same orientation and press firmly until it snaps into place. Close the door to confirm it latches securely. Restore power and run a short cycle to verify the door stays closed and the dryer operates normally. Tools needed: None in most cases; a small flat-head screwdriver may help with removal. Frequently Asked Questions What dryers is the 12138200000320 compatible with? The 12138200000320 door catch is used on select Midea and Insignia dryer models. Insignia is a Best Buy house brand whose appliances are manufactured by Midea. Always verify your exact model number before ordering to confirm this catch fits your dryer's door latch assembly. Why won't my dryer start even though I'm closing the door? If the door catch is broken or worn, the door may not be engaging the door switch firmly enough to signal the control board that the door is closed. Most dryers will not run unless the door switch is fully activated. Replacing the 12138200000320 catch restores the firm snap needed to trigger the switch. If replacing the catch does not resolve the start issue, the door switch itself may also need to be checked. Do I need to replace the door strike as well? Not necessarily. In most cases only the door catch (the spring-clip on the door) needs replacement. The door strike (the post or tab on the cabinet that the catch snaps onto) is typically more durable. Inspect the strike for cracks or breakage before ordering — if it is intact, just the 12138200000320 catch is all you need. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Midea OEM part, but is manufactured from durable plastic to match the dimensions and function of the original 12138200000320 door catch. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WH11X39237 Genuine OEM GE Washer Drain Pump The WH11X39237 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement drain pump and filter assembly compatible with select GE, GE Profile, and GE 2-in-1 Washer/Dryer Combo front-load washers in the GFW510, GFW550, GFW650, GFW655, GFW850, PFW, and PFQ series. The drain pump is responsible for removing water from the washer drum during the drain and spin cycles — when it fails, the washer will not drain, will leave standing water in the drum, or will produce unusual noises during the drain cycle. This complete drain pump and filter assembly operates at 120V, 60Hz, 1.2A and includes the pump motor, impeller housing, and integrated filter. It directly replaces the discontinued WH11X29539 — WH11X39237 is the current manufacturer-approved updated part number. Also replaces AP6986715, 4962370, B25-3A04, and several additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The WH11X39237 Genuine OEM GE Washer Drain Pump fixes GE front-load washers that won't drain, leave standing water in the drum, display drain error codes, or make loud humming or grinding noises during the drain cycle. Complete pump and filter assembly. 120V/60Hz/1.2A. Replaces discontinued WH11X29539. Compatible with GE GFW510, GFW550, GFW650, GFW655, GFW850, PFW, and PFQ series. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not draining — standing water remaining in the drum after a cycle Drain error codes displayed on GE front-load washers (e.g. E23, E24, or pump-related codes) Loud humming, grinding, or buzzing noise during the drain cycle Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a drain fault Water leaking from around the drain pump area Drain pump running continuously but water not being expelled Pump impeller jammed by debris and motor burned out Replaces Part Numbers This drain pump directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH11X39237, WH11X29539, Hanyu B25-3A04, 9019841, PD00094541, AGE1260100, AP8054992, PS18351790. WH11X39237 is the current manufacturer-approved replacement for the discontinued WH11X29539. If your appliance documentation lists WH11X29539, this is the correct updated part. Compatibility This drain pump is compatible with select front-load washers and laundry combos from the following GE product lines: GE front-load washers — GFW510 series GE front-load washers — GFW550 series GE front-load washers — GFW650 series GE front-load washers — GFW655 series GE front-load washers — GFW850 series GE Profile front-load washers — PFW870, PFW950, PFW955 series GE Profile front-load washers — PFQ83 series GE 2-in-1 Washer/Dryer Combo (select models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Complete drain pump and filter assembly — pump motor, impeller housing, and integrated filter all included Removes water from the drum during drain and spin cycles for proper washer operation Integrated filter traps lint, coins, and debris to prevent pump impeller damage and clogs Electrical specs: 120V, 60Hz, 1.2A — correct for compatible GE front-load models WH11X39237 is the current manufacturer-approved replacement for discontinued WH11X29539 Direct replacement — installs into existing pump housing with no modification required Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Compatible with GFW510, GFW550, GFW650, GFW655, GFW850, PFW, and PFQ series DIY-friendly repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WH11X39237 Supersedes WH11X29539 (discontinued) Part Type Washer Drain Pump and Filter Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application GE Front-Load Washers and 2-in-1 Washer/Dryer Combos Voltage 120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Amperage 1.2A Includes Pump motor, impeller housing, and integrated filter Compatible Series GFW510, GFW550, GFW650, GFW655, GFW850, PFW870, PFW950, PFW955, PFQ83 Compatible Brands GE, GE Profile Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning any repair. Place towels and a shallow pan under the pump access area to catch residual water. Remove the front lower access panel of the washer. Before removing the pump, first clean the pump filter (WH23X38617) and check for a clogged filter or debris in the pump housing — a jammed impeller is sometimes mistaken for a failed pump. If the pump motor is confirmed failed, disconnect the wire harness and drain hoses from the old pump assembly, then unscrew or unclip the pump from the mounting bracket. Install the new WH11X39237 pump assembly, reconnect the drain hoses and secure with clamps, reconnect the wire harness, and reinstall the access panel. Restore power and water supply, then run a drain-only cycle to verify proper drainage and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, shallow pan or towels. Frequently Asked Questions What is the difference between WH11X39237 and WH11X29539? These are the same drain pump assembly — WH11X39237 is the current updated part number that GE issued to replace the discontinued WH11X29539. If your washer's documentation, parts diagram, or old pump label shows WH11X29539, the WH11X39237 is the correct replacement to order. Should I check the pump filter before replacing the drain pump? Yes — always check and clean the pump filter (WH23X38617) before replacing the drain pump. A heavily clogged filter can restrict water flow enough to mimic pump failure symptoms, and a foreign object jammed in the impeller can stall the pump motor without permanently damaging it. Remove the filter, clear any debris from the housing and impeller, and test the washer again. If the pump still fails to drain after cleaning, then pump replacement is the next step. How do I know if my drain pump has failed? A failed drain pump typically causes the washer to stop mid-cycle with a drain error code, or to finish a cycle with standing water in the drum. You may also hear a loud humming noise during the drain phase — this indicates the motor is running but the impeller is not turning (jammed or broken). A grinding noise suggests physical damage to the impeller or pump housing. If the pump is completely silent during the drain cycle despite power being delivered to it, the motor has likely burned out. Is the WH11X39237 compatible with GE Profile and GE 2-in-1 models? Yes — the WH11X39237 is compatible with select GE Profile front-load washers in the PFW870, PFW950, PFW955, and PFQ83 series, as well as select GE 2-in-1 Washer/Dryer Combo models. Always verify your specific model number before ordering to confirm compatibility. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same drain pump and filter assembly installed in compatible GE and GE Profile front-load washers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WR60X31522 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor The WR60X31522 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement evaporator fan motor compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Americana top-mount freezer refrigerators. The evaporator fan motor is located at the back of the freezer compartment and circulates air across the evaporator coils — converting the heat from the air into cool air that's then distributed throughout both the freezer and fresh food sections. Without a properly functioning evaporator fan, the refrigerator can't move cold air where it's needed, causing the fresh food and/or freezer sections to warm up, ice to build up on the coils, and the compressor to run continuously trying to compensate. This 115V AC motor is rated at 60Hz, 3.3W and uses a 2-pin connector plus ground wire. Dimensions are 3-1/4"L x 2-3/8"W x 3-3/8"H, with a harness and plug extending approximately 3-1/2" from the motor. Construction is plastic and metal in marbled white & gray. Note: this listing is for the motor with harness only — the fan blade may need to be transferred from the old motor. It directly replaces WR60X10045, WR60X10046, WR60X10072, WR60X10138, WR60X10141, WR60X10346, WR60X23584, WR60X27646, WR60X28783, WR60X28784, WR60X31122, WR60X31523, 4959523, 197D2038P031, AP6977246, EAP12741350, PD00062864, and PS12741350. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The WR60X31522 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Americana top-mount freezer refrigerators that aren't cooling properly, have heavy frost buildup on the evaporator coils, run continuously, or are noisy from the freezer compartment. 115V AC, 60Hz, 3.3W. 2-pin connector + ground wire. 3-1/4"L x 2-3/8"W x 3-3/8"H. Marbled white & gray. Replaces WR60X10045, WR60X10046, WR60X10072, WR60X10138, WR60X10141, WR60X10346, WR60X23584, WR60X27646, WR60X28783, WR60X28784, WR60X31122, WR60X31523, 4959523, 197D2038P031, AP6977246, EAP12741350, PD00062864, PS12741350. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator fresh food and/or freezer sections not cooling properly Heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils ("Antarctica" frost) Loud whining, grinding, or scraping noise from the freezer compartment Fan blade not spinning when checked by hand or stiff/seized rotation Refrigerator running continuously trying to maintain temperature Compressor running but cool air not being circulated Motor failing continuity test with a multimeter Visible damage to the fan motor or its harness Replaces Part Numbers This evaporator fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WR60X31522, WR60X23584, WR60X10141, WR60X10346, WR60X28783, WR60X10045, WR60X10046, WR60X10072, WR60X10138, WR60X27646, WR60X28784, WR60X31122, AGE29819, 115V-60Hz 3.3W, 197D2038P031, UDQR002GLL, FDQR002GSL, AGE29819, PD00062864, AP6977246, PS12741350. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This evaporator fan motor is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Americana refrigerators, typically top-mount freezer units: GE top-mount refrigerators (select models) GE Profile and Café refrigerators (select models) Hotpoint refrigerators (select models) RCA refrigerators (select GE-built models) Americana refrigerators (select GE-built models) Note: Some refrigerator models have two evaporator fan motors — one in the fresh food section and one in the freezer section. The WR60X31522 is typically the freezer-section evaporator fan motor on top-mount style refrigerators. Confirm the failed motor's location and that the WR60X31522 part number matches your refrigerator's parts diagram before ordering. Always verify your appliance model number first. Key Features Evaporator fan motor for the freezer compartment of compatible GE/Hotpoint top-mount refrigerators Pulls air through the evaporator coils to remove heat and circulate cool air throughout the refrigerator 115V AC, 60Hz, 3.3W — correct electrical specifications for compatible GE-platform refrigerators 2-pin connector plus ground wire — direct plug-in installation with the included harness Dimensions: 3-1/4"L x 2-3/8"W x 3-3/8"H; harness and plug extend approximately 3-1/2" from the motor Marbled white & gray plastic and metal construction Replaces 18 OEM and aftermarket cross-reference part numbers including WR60X10045, WR60X10141, WR60X23584, WR60X27646, WR60X28783, WR60X31122, and PS12741350 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Americana refrigerators (top-mount freezer units) Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WR60X31522 Part Type Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor (Freezer Section) Condition Genuine OEM Application Top-Mount Freezer Refrigerators (GE platform) Voltage 115V AC Frequency 60 Hz Wattage 3.3W Connector 2-pin connector plus ground wire Dimensions 3-1/4"L x 2-3/8"W x 3-3/8"H Harness Length Approximately 3-1/2" from motor Color Marbled White & Gray / Gray Material Plastic / Metal Includes Evaporator fan motor with harness and plug (fan blade may need to be transferred from old motor) Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Americana Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The evaporator fan motor is located at the back of the freezer compartment, behind an interior access panel. Remove the freezer shelves and any internal components blocking access to the rear panel. Remove the screws holding the rear access panel in place to expose the evaporator coils and fan motor. Photograph the wire connections and fan blade orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the 2-pin wire harness connector and the ground wire from the old motor. Note the orientation of the fan blade on the motor shaft — the blade typically presses onto the shaft and may need to be transferred to the new motor. Remove the mounting screws or release the motor from its mounting bracket, and pull the old motor free. Carefully transfer the fan blade to the new WR60X31522 motor in the same orientation (or use a new blade if you have one). Install the new motor in the same position, reconnect the wire harness and ground wire, and reinstall the access panel and shelves. Plug the refrigerator back in and allow several hours for the unit to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if the evaporator fan motor has failed? The most common symptoms are: the refrigerator or freezer is warmer than its set temperature even though the compressor sounds like it's running normally; heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils behind the freezer access panel ("Antarctica" frost); and loud whining, grinding, or scraping noise from the freezer area. To confirm: unplug the refrigerator, remove the rear freezer access panel, and try turning the fan blade by hand. If it doesn't spin freely or is stiff/seized, the motor bearing has failed. You can also test for motor continuity with a multimeter — no continuity confirms electrical failure. My refrigerator has two evaporator fans — which one does this replace? Some refrigerator models have two evaporator fan motors — one in the fresh food section and one in the freezer section. The WR60X31522 is typically the freezer-section evaporator fan motor on top-mount style GE and Hotpoint refrigerators. If your symptom is "freezer not cooling properly" or "frost on freezer coils," this is the correct part. If your symptom is specifically "fresh food section warm while freezer is fine" on a French door refrigerator, you may need a different fan motor — contact our support team with your model number to confirm. Does this motor come with the fan blade? No — the WR60X31522 listing is for the motor with harness and plug only. The fan blade is typically transferred from the old motor: carefully pull it off the old motor shaft (it presses on, no hardware needed), and press it onto the new motor shaft in the same orientation. If your old fan blade is damaged or cracked, it should be replaced separately. Installing the blade in the wrong direction will reverse the airflow and reduce cooling performance. What's the difference between the WR60X31522 (115V AC) and DC motors like the WR60X10209 or WR60X26866? GE refrigerators use different fan motor technologies across model generations. The WR60X31522 is a 115V AC motor with a 2-pin connector plus ground — used in many GE and Hotpoint top-mount freezer refrigerators. The WR60X10209 and WR60X26866 are DC voltage motors (around 11–14V DC) used in newer GE French door refrigerators with electronic control boards that supply variable DC voltage for energy-efficient variable-speed fan operation. These are not interchangeable — always verify the correct part number for your specific refrigerator model before ordering. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same evaporator fan motor installed in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Americana refrigerators from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10352973 Washer Genuine Dispenser Actuator Dispenser Drawer Switch Actuator for Washer Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10352973, W10352973, W10065190, W10163975, W10283468, 8183186, AP6020256, PS11753574. ✅ Product Description: Restore proper detergent dispensing with this genuine OEM WPW10352973 washer dispenser actuator. Designed to control the flow of detergent and fabric softener into your wash cycle, this part is a direct replacement for worn or non-functioning actuators in many Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Crosley top-load washing machines. Part Features: Genuine OEM quality – built to factory specs Replaces part numbers: WPW10352973, W10352973, W10065190, W10163975, W10283468, 8183186, AP6020256, PS11753574. Controls dispenser drawer movement for proper release timing Easy to install with basic tools Fixes the following symptoms: Dispenser drawer not opening Detergent or softener not dispensing Error codes related to actuator failure Inconsistent or incomplete wash cycles Compatible with:Many models from Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, and more.(Check model number before ordering or contact us for fitment help.) ✅ Why Buy from Parts-O-Matic? Guaranteed OEM-quality parts Always Fast and Free U.S. shipping Competitive pricing Expert support for part compatibility 🛒 Get your washer working like new – order the WPW10352973 Dispenser Actuator now at Parts-O-Matic.com, and enjoy fast, free shipping with no minimum.

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XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor Replaces WPW10350564 The XPARTCO W10350564 is an aftermarket replacement compressor run capacitor compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers. The run capacitor is a small but critical electrical component mounted near the compressor at the back of the refrigerator — it delivers a phase-shifted power boost that helps the compressor motor start at the beginning of each cooling cycle, and supports smooth, efficient motor operation while the compressor runs. When the capacitor fails — typically from dielectric breakdown, age, heat, or moisture intrusion — the compressor may fail to start, hum without starting, kick on and off repeatedly, or cause inconsistent cooling throughout the refrigerator. Rated 12 µF (MFD) ±5% capacitance, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. This capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device — the two components are frequently replaced together, since a failed capacitor often stresses the relay and vice versa. It directly replaces WPW10350564, W10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570. This is one of the most cost-effective refrigerator repairs — a failed run capacitor mimics symptoms of a failed compressor (a far more expensive repair), so testing and replacing the capacitor first can save hundreds of dollars. Installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers where the compressor won't start, hums without starting, kicks on and off, or the fridge/freezer is too warm with inconsistent cooling. 12 µF (MFD) ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, 2683570. Often replaced together with the compressor start relay. A 15-minute repair that can save you from misdiagnosing a "failed compressor." Common Problems This Part Fixes Compressor won't start — no power boost from the failed capacitor Compressor hums or clicks but doesn't start running Compressor kicks on and off repeatedly (short cycling) Refrigerator and freezer too warm — cooling cycles not completing Fridge too warm while freezer seems okay — weak compressor operation Noticeable humming sounds from the back of the refrigerator Inconsistent cooling and variable temperatures inside the refrigerator Refrigerator will not start at all Capacitor visibly bulged, leaking, or burned Capacitance test reads significantly off from 12 µF Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This run capacitor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WPW10350564, W10350564, PD00030179, EAP11753490, AP6020176, AWP50050, PS11753490. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This run capacitor is compatible with select refrigerators and freezers from the following brands: Whirlpool refrigerators — French door, side-by-side, and bottom-mount models (including WRX735SDBM00 and related WRX/WRF series) Maytag refrigerators (select models) KitchenAid refrigerators (select models) Jenn-Air refrigerators (select models) Amana refrigerators (select models) Magic Chef refrigerators (select models) Roper refrigerators (select models) Admiral refrigerators (select models) Ikea refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models) Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models) Also fits compatible upright and chest freezers on the Whirlpool platform Note: The run capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events — many repair scenarios call for replacing both at the same time since both are accessible in the same location and the combined parts cost is still far below a service call. Always verify your model number before ordering. Key Features Compressor run capacitor — delivers the phase-shifted power boost that starts the compressor motor and supports smooth operation during cooling cycles Rated 12 µF (MFD) capacitance with ±5% tolerance — precise match to OEM electrical specifications 180VAC, 50/60Hz rating for compatible refrigerator compressor circuits Resolves "compressor won't start," "humming but not starting," "short cycling," and "too warm" symptoms when caused by capacitor failure A cost-effective first repair — failed capacitors commonly mimic the symptoms of a far more expensive failed compressor Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers Often replaced together with the compressor start relay/start device as a paired repair Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number W10350564 OEM Part Number WPW10350564 Part Type Refrigerator Compressor Run Capacitor Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Refrigerators and Freezers (Whirlpool platform) Capacitance 12 µF (MFD) Tolerance ±5% Voltage 180V AC Frequency 50/60 Hz Mounting Location Near compressor, rear of refrigerator Often Paired With Compressor Start Relay / Start Device Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Capacitor Safety Warning — Stored Electrical Charge Capacitors store an electrical charge even after the refrigerator is unplugged. Before handling the old capacitor, discharge it safely: with the refrigerator unplugged, touch the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver across both capacitor terminals simultaneously to short them together (you may see or hear a small spark — that's the stored charge dissipating). Never touch the capacitor terminals with bare hands before discharging. If you're not comfortable with this step, have the repair done by a qualified appliance technician. ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall to access the rear. Safely store any food that could spoil if the repair takes longer than expected. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The run capacitor is located near the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, typically behind a lower rear access panel. Remove the screws holding the access panel and set it aside. Locate the capacitor — a small rectangular or oval component connected to the compressor's start relay/start device by wire terminals. Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting anything. Discharge the old capacitor before touching the terminals (see the safety warning above). Disconnect the wire terminals from the old capacitor — note which wire goes to which terminal. Release the capacitor from its mounting clip or bracket. Install the new W10350564 capacitor in the same position, secure the mounting clip, and reconnect the wires to the same terminals as photographed. While the panel is open, inspect the start relay/start device on the side of the compressor — if it rattles when shaken, shows burn marks, or has corroded terminals, replace it at the same time. Reinstall the rear access panel, push the refrigerator back into place, plug it in, and listen for the compressor to start smoothly within a few minutes. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, insulated-handle flathead screwdriver (for discharging), needle-nose pliers, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if the run capacitor has failed and not the compressor? This is the key question — because a failed $15–30 capacitor produces nearly identical symptoms to a failed $300+ compressor. Signs pointing to the capacitor: the compressor hums or clicks but won't start; the compressor tries to start, runs briefly, then shuts off (short cycling); or the refrigerator gradually stopped cooling with humming from the rear. To test: unplug the refrigerator, discharge the capacitor, disconnect it, and measure it with a multimeter that has a capacitance setting — a healthy capacitor reads close to 12 µF (within ±5%). A reading far off, zero, or infinite confirms the capacitor has failed. Visual signs like bulging, leaking, or burn marks also confirm failure. Given the low cost, replacing the capacitor (and start relay) first is the standard diagnostic approach before condemning the compressor. Should I replace the start relay at the same time? Yes, it's strongly recommended. The run capacitor and the compressor start relay/start device work together in the compressor's starting circuit — the relay switches power to the start winding while the capacitor provides the phase-shifted boost. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events (voltage spikes, overheating, repeated failed start attempts). Both components are inexpensive, mounted in the same location on or near the compressor, and accessible in the same repair session. A quick relay check: with the refrigerator unplugged, remove the relay and shake it — if it rattles, the internal components have failed and it needs replacement. Why does the capacitor need to be discharged before handling? Capacitors store electrical energy — that's their job. Even after the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor can hold a charge capable of delivering a painful (and potentially dangerous) shock when you touch both terminals. Before handling, always discharge the capacitor by shorting both terminals together with the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver — touch the metal blade across both terminals at once and hold for a second or two. You may see a small spark as the charge dissipates; that's normal. After discharging, the capacitor is safe to handle. This takes five seconds and eliminates the shock risk entirely. What's the difference between a run capacitor and a start capacitor? Both assist the compressor motor but in different phases of operation. A start capacitor delivers a large, brief boost only during the initial moment of motor startup, then is switched out of the circuit. A run capacitor — like the W10350564 — stays in the circuit continuously while the motor runs, providing an ongoing phase shift that improves the motor's running efficiency and torque. Household refrigerators on the Whirlpool platform typically use a run capacitor working alongside the start relay/start device. Match the replacement to your original: the W10350564 is a 12 µF, 180VAC run capacitor, and the capacitance rating must match for correct compressor operation. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (12 µF ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz), terminal configuration, and compressor-support function of the original WPW10350564/W10350564 run capacitor used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO DC96-00887C - DC47-00018A Dryer Thermostat Set The XPARTCO DC96-00887C / DC47-00018A is an aftermarket replacement 2-piece thermal protection set for Samsung and select Kenmore electric dryers. These two components sit in different locations along the same heating circuit and guard against overheating in different ways. The DC47-00018A is a true cycling high-limit thermostat — it opens at approximately 260°F to cut power to the heating element, then automatically closes again once the temperature drops to around 210°F, letting the dryer resume heating without any part replacement needed. The DC96-00887C, despite frequently being labeled a "thermostat" by third-party sellers, is actually a one-time thermal fuse mounted with its bracket on the blower housing — once it opens from excess heat, it stays open permanently and must be physically replaced. Because these two parts monitor different points in the same circuit, they tend to be replaced together when a dryer has been running hot: if the high-limit thermostat has been cycling excessively or failed to catch a temperature spike, the downstream thermal fuse can end up blowing as the last line of defense. Symptoms of failure in this circuit include no heat or insufficient heat, drying that takes too long, the dryer shutting off too soon, or the timer failing to advance. It directly replaces DC96-00887A, AP5966894, 2074129, AP4207819, PS4216838, EAP4216838, WP35001193, 35001193, PS11741822, PS11741829, AP6008689 (DC96-00887C); and 35001092, 1122485, AP4201898, PS4205217, EAP2430930, PS2430930, AP6008682, WP35001092 (DC47-00018A). Quick Answer The XPARTCO DC96-00887C - DC47-00018A Dryer Thermostat Set fixes Samsung and select Kenmore electric dryers with no heat or insufficient heat, drying that takes too long, premature shutoff, or a timer that won't advance. Set includes the DC47-00018A cycling high-limit thermostat (260°F open / 210°F reset) and the DC96-00887C thermal fuse with bracket. Replaces the full cross-reference sets listed below for both parts. Despite common marketplace labeling, the DC96-00887C is a one-time thermal fuse, not a resettable thermostat — it must be replaced once it blows, while the DC47-00018A resets itself automatically. What's In This Set Component Type Function DC47-00018A Cycling High-Limit Thermostat Opens at ~260°F to cut heat, automatically resets and closes again around 210°F. No replacement needed after each trip. DC96-00887C Thermal Fuse (with bracket) Mounted on the blower housing. Permanently opens if temperature exceeds safe limits. Cannot reset — must be replaced once blown. Common Problems This Set Fixes Dryer has no heat or insufficient heat Drying takes too long to complete a cycle Dryer shuts off too soon, before clothes are fully dry Timer will not advance through the cycle Dryer that stopped working suddenly after running unusually hot Dryer with a history of repeated thermal fuse failures Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This dryer thermostat/thermal fuse set directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: DC96-00887C, DC96-00887A, AP5966894, PS4276292, WP35001193, 35001193, AP6008689, PS11741829, DC47-00018A, AP4201898, PS4205217, 35001092, WP35001092 AP6008682, PS11741822, EXPDC47-00018A, L260-50F If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This set is compatible with select Samsung electric dryers, and also fits select Kenmore dryers built on the Samsung platform, including model numbers such as: DV5471AEW/XAA DV40J3000EW/A2, DV42H5000EW/A3, DV45H7000EW/A2, DV48H7400EW/A2 DV400EWHDWR/AA DVE50M7450W/A3 Note: Always verify your full model number before ordering, since Samsung uses several different thermal protection components across its dryer lineup. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features 2-piece set covering both the cycling high-limit thermostat and the blower housing thermal fuse DC47-00018A thermostat opens at approximately 260°F and resets automatically around 210°F DC96-00887C thermal fuse ships with its mounting bracket included Resolves "no heat," "insufficient heat," "takes too long to dry," and "shuts off too soon" symptoms Addresses two failure points in the same overheat-protection circuit at once No special tools required for installation Replaces the full cross-reference sets for both DC96-00887C and DC47-00018A listed above Compatible with Samsung and select Kenmore electric dryers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Set Contents 1x DC47-00018A high-limit thermostat, 1x DC96-00887C thermal fuse with bracket Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Samsung Electric Dryers DC47-00018A Type Automatically resetting, cycling high-limit thermostat DC47-00018A Open Temperature ~260°F DC47-00018A Reset Temperature ~210°F DC96-00887C Type One-time thermal fuse — non-resettable DC96-00887C Location Blower housing Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — no special tools required Compatible Brands Samsung, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting — Note Which Component Goes Where Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically through the rear panel, near the blower housing and heater duct assembly where both components are mounted. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the thermal fuse and thermostat can look similar at a glance and are easy to install in the wrong position. Test each old component with a multimeter for continuity if you want to confirm which has actually failed before replacing both — the DC47-00018A thermostat and DC96-00887C fuse can each be checked this way. Remove each old component from its mounting position, noting orientation and location, and disconnect its wiring. Install the DC47-00018A thermostat and the DC96-00887C fuse (with its bracket) from this set in the same positions as the parts they replace, reconnecting wiring exactly as photographed. Reassemble the panel, restore power, and run a full test cycle to confirm normal, consistent heating with no premature shutoffs. Tools needed: Phillips or nut driver (model-dependent), multimeter (recommended), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Is DC96-00887C really a thermostat, or something else? Different sellers call it different things. This is a genuinely common point of confusion in the marketplace, and it's worth clearing up: DC96-00887C is actually a one-time thermal fuse mounted with its bracket on the blower housing, even though many third-party listings label it a "thermostat." The distinction matters for how you diagnose and handle it — once this fuse blows from excess heat, it stays open permanently and must be physically replaced, unlike a true thermostat (like the DC47-00018A in this same set) which resets itself automatically once things cool down. Why replace both parts together instead of just the one that failed? These two components sit at different points in the same overheat-protection circuit, and a problem with one often puts stress on the other. If the high-limit thermostat has been cycling excessively or didn't catch a temperature spike in time, the downstream thermal fuse can end up blowing as the last line of defense. Replacing both together addresses the full circuit rather than risking a second failure and a second repair shortly after. My dryer shuts off before the load is fully dry. Is that this set? It's a strong possibility. If the high-limit thermostat is tripping prematurely — opening at a lower temperature than it should, or failing to reset properly — the dryer can cut heat and end the cycle early even though the load isn't actually dry yet. This is one of the more common symptoms this thermostat set addresses. Is this an OEM or aftermarket set? This is an aftermarket replacement set built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Samsung OEM set, but each component is manufactured to match the electrical specifications, opening/reset temperatures, and mounting configuration of the original DC96-00887C thermal fuse and DC47-00018A high-limit thermostat used in compatible Samsung and Kenmore electric dryers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10226427 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Power Supply Board Replaces Part Numbers:  WPW10226427, W10226427, 1551792, OEM18052172, AP6017389, PS11750687. Description: This is a Genuine OEM refrigerator power supply board. It's an internal component that is made to control the refrigerator functions. This part is made with small precision parts to help with timing defrost and cooling cycles. This part can be damaged or malfunction and stop operating correctly. This may prevent the refrigerator from running, cause strange sounds, or cause the refrigerator to run at the wrong temperature.If this part is damaged, it will need to be replaced. Before replacing the power supply board, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged from the wall. The process will require a flathead screwdriver and a nut driver. Use the tools to unthread the screws on the access cover. Depress the retaining tab to remove the inner cover and disconnect the wires. Press the tab to release the power supply board and snap in the new component. Make sure the wires are properly connected and reassemble.This genuine OEM replacement part is sold on an individual basis. It is directly acquired from the manufacturer and is designed to be compatible with specific refrigerator models made by Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid.    California Residents only WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov

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XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb 40W Replaces 8206232A, WB25X10030 The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 is an aftermarket replacement 40-watt T8 appliance light bulb compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, ovens, and other kitchen appliances from GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, and more. It uses the standard E17 intermediate screw base found on most over-the-range and built-in microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulb sockets. With a clear T8 glass envelope, warm white 2800K color temperature, and 280-lumen output, it matches the brightness and look of the original OEM bulbs it replaces. Specifications: 40W, 125V (AC 110-130V/60Hz), E17 intermediate screw base, T8 shape (1" diameter × 2-3/8" length), 280 lumens, warm white (~2800K), dimmable (compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings), 1000-hour rated life, working temperature High Temp Resistance 300℃. It directly replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 261201500480, 3015548, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, and PS8767095. Installs in under 5 minutes — no tools required for the bulb itself. Quick Answer The XPARTCO XPIBE1740 Microwave Light Bulb (40W) replaces burned-out interior microwave lights, range hood lights, and select appliance bulbs across GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, and Hotpoint. T8 shape, 40W, 125V, E17 intermediate screw base. 1" diameter × 2-3/8" length. 280 lumens warm white (~2800K). Dimmable. 1000-hour life. Replaces 8206232A, 8206232, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 1890433, AP4512653, R0712011, W10321375, W10598935, WB36X10003, WB25X10029, WB25X10030, WB25X10030-24PK, 6912W1Z004B, AP5809052, PS2376034, PS8767095. Make sure your appliance uses an E17 intermediate base — not E26 standard, E12 candelabra, or E14 European. Common Problems This Part Fixes Microwave interior light not working — bulb burned out Range hood light bulb burned out — under-cabinet area no longer illuminates when cooking Over-the-range microwave under-cabinet light not working Bulb flickering or dimming inconsistently — filament starting to fail Bulb visibly burned out, broken, or rattling when shaken (broken filament) Microwave light works only intermittently — bulb on the verge of failure Replacement after long service life — most appliance bulbs last about 2,000 hours Replaces Part Numbers This 40W appliance light bulb directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers from multiple brands: 8206232A, 8206443, 8183993, 0053437, 05200136, 05200137, 14209237, 14210453, 14210811, 14218311, 14218312, 14218318, 1890433, 2635-0004, 2635-0005, 2665-0003, 4158344, 4158365, 4158432, 4164062, 4166665, 4174608, 4338831, 4359625, 4393681, 53001372, 53422, 53437, 56001071, 56001089, 57001073, 7-47000, 7-47001, 747000, 747001, 8189961, 8204855, 8205422, 8205586, 8206232, R0712013, R0712015, R0713503, R9900310, W10321375, W10598935, Y0053422, Y0053437, Y05200136, Y05200137, Y747000, Y747001, AWP39609, PD00003046, AH2376034, EA2376034, AP4512653, PS2376034, WB25X10030, 261201500480, 3015548, AGE22225 PD00034740, AP5809052, PS8767095, 26QBP4093. If your bulb part number isn't listed above, check that the base is E17 intermediate and the bulb is 40W — most appliance bulbs in this category are interchangeable. Contact our support team if you need confirmation. Compatibility This 40W E17 appliance light bulb is compatible with a wide range of microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and ovens using E17 intermediate base sockets, including: GE over-the-range and countertop microwaves (interior lights) GE Profile, Café, and Monogram microwaves and range hoods Whirlpool microwaves and range hoods (over-the-range models) KitchenAid microwaves (built-in and over-the-range) Maytag microwaves (select models) Amana microwaves (select models) LG over-the-range microwaves Frigidaire microwaves and range hoods (select models) Kenmore / Sears microwaves (multi-brand-built models) Hotpoint microwaves and range hoods Corningware microwaves (select models) Also fits select refrigerator interior light sockets, oven lights, and lava lamps using the same E17 base Important — Check Your Base Type: This bulb uses an E17 intermediate screw base. It will NOT fit appliances designed for E26 (standard household), E12 (candelabra), or E14 (European) bases. The E17 base is the most common base for over-the-range microwaves and range hoods, but check your old bulb or appliance manual to confirm before ordering. Some newer LG microwaves use a 30W bulb instead of 40W — verify your wattage requirement as well. Key Features 40-watt T8 appliance incandescent bulb — replaces burned-out interior lights in microwaves, range hoods, refrigerators, and select ovens Standard E17 intermediate screw base — fits the most common appliance bulb socket T8 shape: 1" (25mm) diameter × 2-3/8" (62mm) length — matches OEM bulb dimensions for clear cover fit 125V (works on AC 110-130V / 60Hz household power) 400 lumens of warm white light (~2800K) — matches the brightness and color of original incandescent OEM bulbs Dimmable — compatible with microwave HIGH/LOW light settings without flicker 1000-hour rated lifetime — standard for appliance incandescent bulbs Working temperature range: High Temp Resistance 300℃.  — suitable for microwave and range hood heat environments Replaces 8206232A, 1890433, AP4512653, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, W10321375, W10598935, 6912W1Z004B, and many additional cross-references Multi-brand cross-compatibility: GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY replacement — installs in under 5 minutes Product Specifications Part Number XPIBE1740 Common OEM Replacements 8206232A, WB25X10030, WB36X10003, 6912W1Z004B Part Type Appliance Light Bulb (Incandescent) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Microwave, Range Hood, Refrigerator, Oven, Appliance Lights Wattage 40W Voltage 125V (operates AC 110-130V / 60Hz) Base Type E17 Intermediate Screw Base Bulb Shape T8 Dimensions 1" (25mm) D x 2-3/8" (62mm) L Brightness 280 lumens Color Temperature Warm White (~2800K) Cover Clear glass Dimmable Yes — compatible with HIGH/LOW microwave settings Lifetime over 2,000+ Working Temperature High Temp Resistance 300℃.  Compatible Brands GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, LG, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Corningware Installation Notes ⚠️ Let the Bulb Cool Completely Before Touching — Unplug Microwave Before replacing the bulb, unplug the microwave (or disconnect power at the breaker for hardwired range hoods) and allow the old bulb to cool completely — incandescent appliance bulbs run very hot, and the glass can stay hot for several minutes after the light is turned off. For an over-the-range microwave's interior light, the bulb is typically accessed through a small panel or by removing a screw-on cover inside the microwave cavity. For under-cabinet/exterior lights, access the bulb by removing the protective cover or vent grille on the bottom of the microwave or range hood. Unscrew the old bulb counterclockwise and dispose of it safely. Screw in the new XPIBE1740 bulb clockwise — hand-tight only, do not over-tighten. Avoid touching the glass envelope of the new bulb with bare fingers; skin oils on the glass can shorten bulb life. If you must touch the glass, wipe it down with a clean cloth before powering the appliance back on. Replace the cover, restore power, and confirm the light works. Tools needed: none for most models, or a small Phillips screwdriver if a panel/cover must be removed. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if I need an E17, E26, or E12 base bulb? The "E" number refers to the screw base diameter in millimeters. E17 (intermediate) is 17mm — the most common size for over-the-range microwave interior lights, range hood lights, and many appliance lights. E26 (medium/standard) is 26mm — typical household light bulbs (do NOT fit appliance sockets). E12 (candelabra) is 12mm — used for chandelier and decorative bulbs. E14 (European intermediate) is 14mm — common in Europe but rare in U.S. appliances. The XPIBE1740 is an E17 intermediate base. If your old bulb is noticeably smaller or larger than what you're holding, it's the wrong base — confirm by comparing dimensions or checking your appliance manual before ordering. Can I use an LED bulb instead of this incandescent one? In many appliances, yes — LED appliance bulbs with E17 intermediate bases are available and use significantly less power for similar brightness. However, LED bulbs sometimes have compatibility issues with the dimming/HIGH-LOW settings on microwaves, can flicker, or may not work with the appliance's lighting control circuit. The XPIBE1740 incandescent bulb is fully dimmable and a guaranteed direct match to the original appliance bulb's behavior. If you prefer LED for energy savings, confirm the LED is rated for appliance use, has an E17 base, and is dimmable for microwave applications before substituting. My LG microwave's bulb says 30W — does this 40W bulb fit? Physically, yes — both the 30W and 40W bulbs use the same E17 intermediate base and similar T8 shape. However, some LG microwave models specifically call for a 30W bulb (such as the 6912W1Z004B variant). Using a 40W bulb in a socket rated for 30W may cause the bulb to run hotter than designed, shortening its life or the surrounding socket components' life. Check your LG microwave's manual or the marking on the old bulb — if it specifies 30W, use a 30W bulb. The XPIBE1740 is 40W, suitable for the majority of microwaves that specify 40W bulbs. Why do appliance bulbs burn out faster than regular household bulbs? Appliance bulbs operate in harsher environments than typical household bulbs — high temperatures (microwaves and range hoods can hit 480°F nearby), heavy vibration from cooking appliances, repeated rapid on-off cycling, and frequent thermal shock from cooking steam. Even though they're rated for 1,000 hours of operation, real-world life in an appliance is often shorter than the same incandescent bulb in a household lamp. Buying multi-packs and replacing when one burns out is a common approach. Always allow the appliance to cool before swapping the bulb, and don't touch the new glass with bare fingers to maximize service life. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement bulb built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a branded GE, Whirlpool, or LG OEM bulb, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (T8, 1" × 2-3/8"), electrical specifications (40W, 125V, E17 base), brightness (400 lumens, warm white), and dimmable performance of the original appliance bulbs it replaces. Bulb spec compatibility (not brand) is what determines fit, so a properly specified aftermarket bulb performs identically to the OEM. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DC97-19289F Genuine OEM Samsung Washer Drain Pump Assembly The DC97-19289F is a Genuine OEM Samsung replacement washer drain pump assembly compatible with a wide range of Samsung top-load washers in the WA40, WA41, WA42, WA44, WA45, WA48, WA50, WA52, and WA54 series, as well as select Kenmore models built on the Samsung platform. The drain pump removes water from the washer tub during the drain portion of each wash cycle. When the pump fails, the washer will display error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5, leave standing water in the tub, stop mid-cycle, or produce unusual noise during draining. This complete drain pump assembly is rated 120V, 60Hz, 80W, 1.1A with a 30-minute on / 30-minute off duty cycle. It directly replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, and PX3516-01. Note: the wire plug on the new pump may differ slightly from the original — if the connector does not match your washer's harness, transfer the wiring harness from the old pump to the new one. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The DC97-19289F Genuine OEM Samsung Washer Drain Pump Assembly fixes Samsung top-load washers displaying error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5, not draining, leaving standing water, or making loud noise during the drain cycle. 120V/60Hz/80W/1.1A, 30 min on/30 min off duty cycle. Compatible with Samsung WA40 through WA54 series and Kenmore (Samsung-built). Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, PX3516-01. Note: if wire plug differs, transfer harness from old pump. Common Problems This Part Fixes Error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5 — washer cannot drain within the allotted time Washer not draining — standing water remaining in the tub after a cycle Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a drain fault Loud humming, grinding, or rattling noise during the drain cycle Water draining very slowly — worn pump motor below rated performance Water leaking from the drain pump area at the bottom of the washer Pump running continuously but water not being expelled from the tub Replaces Part Numbers This drain pump directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: DC97-19289F, DC97-17349B, DC97-19289B,DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, DC97-19289A,ASM772133, AP6806651, EAP12592631, PD00049911, PX3516-01, PS12592631. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This drain pump is compatible with select top-load washers from the following brands and series: Samsung top-load washers — WA40 series (WA400PJHDWR and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA41 series (WA41A3000AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA42 series Samsung top-load washers — WA44 series (WA44A3205AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA45 series (WA45H7000AW, WA45M7050AW, WA45N3050AW, WA45T3200AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA48 series (WA48H7400AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA50 series (WA50F9A7DSP, WA50M7450AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA52 series (WA52M7750AW, WA52M8650AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA54 series (WA54M8750AV and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA456DRHDSU series Kenmore / Sears top-load washers (select Samsung-built models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Removes water from the tub during the drain and spin cycles for proper washer operation Resolves Samsung error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, and E5 caused by drain pump failure Rated 120V, 60Hz, 80W, 1.1A — correct electrical specifications for compatible Samsung top-load models 30-minute on / 30-minute off duty cycle — matches the operational requirements of compatible models Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, and PX3516-01 Wire plug may differ from original — transfer harness from old pump if connector does not match Compatible with Samsung WA40 through WA54 series and Kenmore Samsung-built top-load washers Genuine OEM part manufactured by Samsung to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number DC97-19289F Also Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B (prior versions) Part Type Washer Drain Pump Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Application Samsung Top-Load Washers Voltage 120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Wattage 80W Amperage 1.1A Duty Cycle 30 minutes on / 30 minutes off Error Codes Resolved 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, E5 Connector Note Wire plug may differ — transfer harness from old pump if needed Compatible Brands Samsung, Kenmore (Samsung-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning. Tilt the washer back or lay it on its side to access the drain pump at the bottom of the machine. Place towels and a shallow pan to catch residual water when the pump is disconnected. Note the wiring connector orientation before disconnecting — take a photo if needed. If the new pump's connector does not match the washer's harness, carefully transfer the wiring harness from the old pump to the new pump. Disconnect the drain hoses from the pump using pliers to loosen the clamps. Unscrew the pump mounting screws and remove the old pump. Install the new DC97-19289F pump in the same position, reconnect drain hoses and secure with clamps, and reconnect the wiring harness. Restore water supply and power, then run a drain cycle to verify proper drainage and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, shallow pan, towels. Frequently Asked Questions What error codes indicate a drain pump failure on Samsung washers? Error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, and E5 on Samsung top-load washers all indicate a drain fault — the washer was unable to drain within the expected time. These codes can also be caused by a clogged drain filter, blocked hose, or kinked drain line, so check those first. If the filter and hose are clear and the error persists after clearing them, the drain pump is the most likely cause. What is the difference between DC97-19289F, DC97-19289A, and DC97-19289B? These are successive revisions of the same Samsung drain pump assembly. DC97-19289A was the original version, DC97-19289B was an update, and DC97-19289F is the current version. Samsung issues revised part numbers when minor production changes are made — all three perform the same function and the DC97-19289F is the correct current replacement for any of the earlier versions. The DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, and DC97-17366J are additional older cross-references for this pump used on earlier Samsung top-load models. Why might the wire plug on the new pump differ from the original? Samsung revised the wiring connector on this drain pump across different production runs. If the DC97-19289F pump you receive has a different connector than your washer's harness, do not force the connection. Instead, carefully remove the wiring harness from the old pump and transfer it to the new pump — both versions use the same internal terminals and the harness swap is straightforward. This is a known and documented step for this part and does not affect performance or safety. Should I check the drain filter before replacing the pump? Yes — always check and clean the drain filter and inspect the drain hose for kinks or blockages before replacing the pump. A clogged filter or blocked hose can cause the same error codes as a failed pump and clearing the blockage may resolve the problem without needing a new part. On Samsung top-load washers the drain filter is typically located at the bottom front of the machine. If the filter and hose are clear and the error persists, the pump needs replacement. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Samsung to factory specifications. It is the exact same drain pump assembly installed in compatible Samsung and Kenmore top-load washers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WB02X10646 Hood Line Fuse The replacement WB02X10646 Hood Line Fuse is designed for select GE range hood models. This fuse protects the hood’s electrical system (e.g., fan or light circuits) from power surges or faults. Ideal for restoring functionality to GE appliances experiencing hood-related power issues, such as fan or light failures. Note: Disconnect power before installation. Verify voltage and amperage compatibility with your appliance model. Replaces part numbers: WB02X10646, 873971, AH223926, EA223926, WB02X10584, WB2X10584, WB2X10646, AP3423517, PS223926. Compatibility (WB02X10646): Compatible with select GE microwave and range hood models, including but not limited to: GE: JVM series, Profile, Cafe, Monogram (specific models pending verification) Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance. Key Features (WB02X10646): ✅ Brand Compatibility: Fits select GE microwave and range hood models. 🔥 Specifications: Replacement hood line fuse, specifications vary by model (typically 125V–250V, verify amperage), heat-resistant. 💰 Cost-Effective Alternative: Offers OEM-equivalent performance at a lower price. 🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires basic tools (e.g., screwdriver, pliers); typically installed in 10–15 minutes. 🛡️ Reliable Fixes: Addresses hood-related issues like fan or light not working. Installation Notes (WB02X10646): Safety First: Disconnect the appliance from the power source before installation. Shop Parts-O-Matic for high-quality replacement appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Get your microwave or hood running today! Add to cart now for a budget-friendly fix!

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WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor The WR60X10209 is a Genuine OEM GE replacement DC condenser fan motor compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, and Café refrigerators in the GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE, and related series. The condenser fan motor is located near the compressor at the rear bottom of the refrigerator. It circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the hot refrigerant before it returns to the evaporator — this is an essential step in the refrigeration cycle. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and condenser coils, causing the refrigerator to run continuously, cool inefficiently, or trip the compressor's thermal overload protection. This Genuine OEM part is manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is a DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W with a 4-pin plastic connector and four color-coded wires (white, blue, red, and yellow). It directly replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, WR60X10209-24PK, 1195784, AP4265957, AH1483567, EA1483567, and PS1483567. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The WR60X10209 Genuine OEM GE Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor fixes GE refrigerators that are not cooling properly, running continuously, making unusual noise from the back, or where the compressor is overheating. 11.3V DC, 2.2W, 4-pin connector (white/blue/red/yellow wires). Genuine OEM. Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, AP4265957, PS1483567. Compatible with GE GSS, GSL, HSS, PSS, PSC, GCE, PCE series and Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café. Common Problems This Part Fixes Refrigerator not cooling properly — condenser fan not circulating air across coils Refrigerator running continuously without reaching set temperature Compressor overheating — heat not being dissipated from condenser area Unusual noise or grinding from the back or bottom of the refrigerator Condenser fan motor visibly not spinning when compressor is running Refrigerator cycling off frequently on thermal overload protection Food spoilage — refrigerator unable to maintain safe temperatures Replaces Part Numbers This condenser fan motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WR60X10209, 1195784, WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, 045900390950, 197D2407P013, AGE29194, AH1483567, EA1483567, EAP1483567, AP4265957, PD00001176, PS1483567. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This condenser fan motor is compatible with a wide range of refrigerators from the following GE product lines: GE refrigerators — GSS series (GSS22, GSS23, GSS25, GSS26 and related side-by-side models) GE refrigerators — GSL series (GSL22, GSL25 and related models) GE refrigerators — GCE series (GCE21, GCE23 and related models) GE refrigerators — PCE and PSS series (PCE23, PSS25, PSS26 and related Profile models) GE refrigerators — PSC series (PSC23, PSC25 and related Profile models) GE Monogram refrigerators — ZIS, ZISB series (select models) GE Café refrigerators (select models) Hotpoint refrigerators — HSS series (HSS22, HSS25 and related models) RCA refrigerators (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select GE-built models) Haier refrigerators (select GE-platform models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance Circulates air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the refrigerant and maintain efficient refrigeration cycle operation DC voltage motor rated at 11.3V DC, 2.2W — runs on DC voltage supplied by the refrigerator's control board 4-pin plastic connector with color-coded wires (white, blue, red, yellow) — direct plug-in installation on compatible models Replaces WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10065, WR60X10080, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216, WR60X24483, and AP4265957 Compatible with GE GSS/GSL/GCE/PCE/PSS/PSC, Hotpoint HSS, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café, and RCA refrigerators DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WR60X10209 Part Type Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor Condition Genuine OEM Application Refrigerators (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer) Voltage 11.3V DC Wattage 2.2W Connector 4-pin plastic plug Wire Colors White, Blue, Red, Yellow Location Near compressor at rear bottom of refrigerator Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore, Haier, Monogram, Café Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator before beginning. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear lower back panel. Remove the screws securing the back panel to expose the compressor, condenser coils, and condenser fan assembly. The condenser fan motor is mounted on a bracket near the compressor with the fan blade facing the condenser coil. Take a photo of the wire connector orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the 4-pin wire connector from the motor. Remove the mounting screws securing the motor to the bracket and slide the old motor out. Note the orientation of the fan blade on the motor shaft — the blade must be reinstalled in the same direction on the new motor (or transferred from the old motor if the new motor does not include a blade). Install the new WR60X10209 motor, reconnect the wire connector, reinstall the back panel, restore power, and confirm the condenser fan spins when the compressor starts. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver. Frequently Asked Questions What does the condenser fan motor do in a refrigerator? The condenser fan motor drives a fan blade that circulates ambient air across the condenser coils at the rear of the refrigerator. The condenser coils carry hot high-pressure refrigerant that has just been compressed — the fan removes heat from the refrigerant so it can cool, condense, and return to the evaporator to absorb heat from inside the refrigerator. Without the condenser fan running, heat builds up around the compressor and coils, causing the refrigerator to lose cooling efficiency, run continuously, or — in severe cases — trip the compressor's thermal overload and shut down entirely. Why does this motor use DC voltage instead of AC? Modern GE refrigerators use DC motors for the condenser fan because they are more energy-efficient, quieter, and easier to speed-control by the refrigerator's electronic control board than traditional AC motors. The refrigerator's main control board converts household 120V AC power to 11.3V DC to supply the condenser fan motor. This DC motor runs at a variable speed under board control, which allows GE's refrigerators to optimize fan speed based on cooling demand. How do I confirm the condenser fan motor has failed? Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug it, and remove the rear lower panel. Spin the condenser fan blade by hand — if it is stiff, wobbles, or seizes, the motor bearing has failed. If the blade spins freely but the motor does not run when the refrigerator is plugged in and the compressor starts, check for DC voltage at the motor connector using a multimeter. If the board is supplying approximately 11–12V DC to the motor but the motor is not running, the motor has failed electrically. If no voltage is present, the control board may not be supplying power — a less common but possible failure mode. Does this motor come with the fan blade? The WR60X10209 is the motor only — the fan blade is typically not included and should be transferred from the old motor. When removing the old motor, carefully pull the fan blade off the motor shaft (it presses on — no hardware is typically needed). Press the blade onto the new motor shaft in the same orientation. If the fan blade is cracked or damaged, it should be replaced separately. Installing the blade in the wrong direction will reverse the airflow direction and reduce cooling efficiency. Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part? This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by GE to factory specifications. It is the exact same DC condenser fan motor installed in compatible GE, Hotpoint, and related brand refrigerators from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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