Search results for "hvac Switch"

WB24T10029 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Control Switch The WB24T10029 is a genuine GE OEM surface burner control switch — also called an infinite switch — for the 6-inch surface element on GE, Hotpoint, and select Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops. This switch is what the burner knob actually turns: it doesn't have fixed positions like a light switch, but instead cycles the element's power on and off at varying ratios as you rotate the knob, which is why it's called an "infinite" switch — it lets you dial in a continuous range of heat levels rather than a handful of fixed steps. Turn the knob to a low setting and the switch feeds the element power only briefly out of every few seconds; turn it toward high and the element stays powered for most of that same window. This switch is rated for 1,500 watts and controls a 6-inch surface element, drawing 4.4–7.4A at 240V. Over years of use the internal contacts wear, pit, or weld from repeated on/off cycling, and moisture from boilovers or spills can corrode the switch body and cause it to short internally. A worn switch produces predictable symptoms: the burner won't turn on or off at all, it sticks at one heat level no matter where the knob is turned, or it works only intermittently. It directly replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, and PS236754. As a genuine OEM part, the WB24T10029 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The WB24T10029 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Control Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges where a surface burner won't turn on or off, stays at one heat level regardless of the knob setting, or works intermittently. This is the 6-inch element switch — 1,500W, 4.4–7.4A at 240V. Replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, PS236754. Not the same switch as the WB24T10025 used on the 8-inch element — check which burner is affected before ordering. Common Problems This Part Fixes Surface burner won't turn on at all when the knob is turned Burner won't turn off — stays hot even with the knob at the off position Burner stuck at one heat level regardless of where the knob is set No ability to adjust temperature — always full blast or always low Intermittent burner operation — works sometimes, not others Burner cycles unpredictably, on and off faster or slower than the knob setting suggests Knob feels loose, gritty, or doesn't click through its normal range of motion Burner failure that followed a boilover or liquid spill on the control panel Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This range surface burner control switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WB24T10029, 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, EAP236754, AGE22522, PD00008555, PS236754 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This surface burner control switch is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops using a 6-inch surface element, across a very wide range of model families, including: GE JB, JBP, JCBP, and JBS series electric ranges GE RB and RA series electric ranges Hotpoint RB series electric ranges (select GE-built models) Select Kenmore electric ranges built on the GE platform This switch fits several thousand model variants across GE's electric range lineup, including common families such as JB250, JB350, JB500, JB600 through JB870, JBP10 through JBP99, JCBP35 through JCBP85, JBS07, JBS27, JBS55, JBS60, JBS86, RA724, RB536, RB540, RB560, RB585, RB720, RB740, RB757, RB758, RB787, RB790, RB798, and RB800 — each spanning many color and revision suffixes. Because the model list is extremely long, always verify your full model number against your range's data label, located inside the storage drawer or along the back panel, before ordering. Note — 6-inch element switch only: GE ranges typically pair a smaller 6-inch element with a larger 8-inch element, and each uses its own dedicated infinite switch. The WB24T10029 is the switch for the 6-inch element. The larger 8-inch element on the same range uses the separate WB24T10025 switch (replaces 769692, AP2024072, AH236750, EA236750, PS236750) instead. The two switches look nearly identical and are easy to mix up when ordering — before you buy, confirm which specific burner has failed and measure or check the element size. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch you need. Key Features Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified contact design and heat-cycling calibration Infinite switch design allows continuous heat adjustment rather than a handful of fixed positions Rated for the 6-inch surface element — 1,500 watts, 4.4–7.4A at 240V Resolves "burner won't turn on," "burner won't turn off," "stuck at one heat level," and "intermittent operation" symptoms caused by worn or corroded switch contacts Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the same control panel bracket and wiring harness Replaces 769696, AP2024076, AH236754, EA236754, and PS236754 Compatible with a wide range of GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric range models Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number WB24T10029 Part Type Range Surface Burner Control Switch (Infinite Switch) Condition Genuine OEM Brand GE Element Size Controlled 6 in. Wattage Rating 1,500 W Amperage 4.4–7.4 A Voltage 240V Function Cycles element power to allow continuous (infinite) heat adjustment Mounting Control panel bracket, knob shaft, and wiring harness terminals Quantity 1 switch Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ 240V Circuit — Unplug Range Or Shut Off Breaker Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning — this switch operates on a 240V circuit, and working on it while powered presents a serious shock hazard. Wear work gloves. Access is from the front of the control panel: remove the burner knob (it typically pulls straight off, though some models use a small retaining clip or screw), then remove the screws securing the control panel or backsplash to reach the switch from behind. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting anything — this switch has multiple terminals and getting one out of order will affect either the wrong burner or its heat-cycling behavior. Disconnect the wire terminals from the old switch, noting or labeling each one, then remove the mounting screws or clips holding the switch to the panel and pull it free. Install the new WB24T10029 in the same orientation, reconnect each wire terminal exactly as labeled, and secure the mounting hardware. Reinstall the control panel or backsplash, press the knob back onto the shaft, restore power, and test the burner through its full range from low to high to confirm smooth, continuous heat adjustment. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, wire terminal pliers (helpful but optional), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if I need the WB24T10029 or the WB24T10025? It depends entirely on which burner has failed. Most GE ranges pair a smaller 6-inch element with a larger 8-inch element, and each has its own dedicated infinite switch. The WB24T10029 is for the 6-inch element; the WB24T10025 is for the 8-inch element. Look at your range and identify which specific burner is misbehaving, then measure that element's diameter if you're not sure — the two switches are not interchangeable even though they look nearly identical side by side. What does "infinite switch" mean, and why does mine only work at one setting? An infinite switch lets you dial in a continuous range of heat rather than a few fixed positions, by rapidly cycling the element's power on and off at a ratio set by the knob — low settings get short power pulses, high settings get long ones. When the internal contacts wear or weld together from years of cycling, the switch can get stuck feeding constant power (burner always hot) or stop switching at all (burner always off), regardless of where the knob is turned. That "stuck at one heat level" complaint is the classic symptom of a failing infinite switch. A spill got into the control panel and now the burner won't turn off. Is that the switch? Very likely, yes. Liquid boilovers and spills are one of the most common causes of infinite switch failure — moisture gets into the switch body, corrodes or bridges the internal contacts, and the switch can end up stuck feeding power continuously even with the knob turned to off. If you suspect this, shut off power to the range immediately at the breaker rather than relying on the knob, since a shorted switch may not respond to it at all. My burner works but only at high heat no matter where I turn the knob. Could it be something else? The infinite switch is the most common cause, but it's worth a quick visual check first. Make sure the knob itself is properly seated on its shaft — a knob that's been pushed on at the wrong angle, or whose shaft has worn round, can make it feel like the switch isn't responding even though it is. If the knob is properly seated and turns smoothly through its full range but the heat output doesn't change, the switch's internal contacts have failed and replacement is the correct fix. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original 1,500W, 4.4–7.4A, 240V electrical rating and the heat-cycling behavior of the infinite switch originally installed for the 6-inch element in your GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore range. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO W10195039 Dishwasher Float Switch The XPARTCO W10195039 is an aftermarket replacement float switch for Whirlpool-built dishwashers sold under the Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana and related brand names. The float switch is the safety device that shuts off the water fill valve if the water level gets too high before the timed fill cycle ends, so a failed float can mean overfilling or a dishwasher that won't fill properly. This is a direct-fit aftermarket replacement for the original Whirlpool float switch, which is sold as W10195039 and WPW10195039. Float problems can look like valve or control problems, so check the float for a stuck or damaged action before replacing it. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10195039 Float Switch fixes a Whirlpool-built dishwasher that overfills, leaks from too much water, or won't fill because the float is stuck, damaged, or no longer switching. It is also listed as WPW10195039. Classic symptom: water keeps filling past the normal level, or the dishwasher won't fill and the float looks stuck or cracked. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dishwasher overfills or the water level gets too high Water leaking from too much water in the tub Dishwasher won't fill because the float switch is stuck or failed Float is cracked, broken, or doesn't move freely Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This float switch directly replaces the following part numbers: WPW10195039, W10195039, W10734532, 1872053, MS10-06, AP6016738, AWP49215, EAP11750031, PD00002753, PS11750031 W10195039 is the older Whirlpool number and WPW10195039 is its current replacement. W10734532 comes from a single retailer cross-reference, so confirm against your dishwasher's parts diagram, or contact our support team, if your model calls out a different number. Compatibility This float switch is listed for Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Inglis dishwashers, including these examples: Kenmore 66513979K017, 66515049K111, 66513964K017, 66512776K310 ADB1100AWB0, CDBW4400SB0, KUDC10FBBL0, KUDS30FXSS0, MDB4709PAB0 Note: The models above are a sample of a much longer list, not a full list. A dishwasher that won't fill can also be caused by the inlet valve, so test the float and valve before ordering. Confirm your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit. Key Features Direct-fit aftermarket float switch for Whirlpool-built dishwashers Shuts off the fill valve if the water level gets too high Replaces both W10195039 and WPW10195039 Fits Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, Jenn-Air and related brands Product Specifications Part Number W10195039 OEM Part Number W10195039, WPW10195039 Part Type Dishwasher Float Switch Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Whirlpool-Built Dishwashers Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect Power and Shut Off the Water Unplug the dishwasher or switch off its circuit breaker, and turn off the water supply before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Follow your model's service guide to reach the float switch, and note the position of each wire connector before disconnecting it. Install the new float switch in the same position, reconnect the wires, and check that the float moves freely before closing the dishwasher. Run a cycle and check for leaks. Frequently Asked Questions What does the float switch do? It shuts off the water fill valve if the water level gets too high before the timed fill cycle ends. It is a safety device that helps prevent overflow. My dishwasher still won't fill. Will this fix it? Only if the float is the cause. A dishwasher that won't fill can also have a bad inlet valve, a clogged inlet screen, or a control problem. Check that the float moves freely and test the valve first. Is W10195039 the same as WPW10195039? Yes. W10195039 is the older Whirlpool number and WPW10195039 is its replacement. This float switch covers both. Will this fit my dishwasher? It is listed for many Whirlpool-built dishwashers, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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Genuine OEM WPW10446920 Dryer Push-To-Start Switch The Genuine OEM WPW10446920 is a factory-original push-to-start switch manufactured by Whirlpool for use in Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, Inglis, and other Whirlpool-built dryers that use a momentary push-button start control rather than a pull/rotary start knob. Pressing and releasing the button sends a signal to the timer or control board that begins the drying cycle; the switch itself does not stay latched, so the control electronics — not the switch — keep the dryer running after you let go. When this switch fails, the dryer typically has power (the display and drum lights, if equipped, still work) but pressing Start does nothing, or the button feels mushy and requires several presses to register. As the genuine Whirlpool part, it ships with the exact factory-specified contacts, housing, and three-terminal wiring connector used on original production, so there's no fit or function guesswork. It directly replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The Genuine OEM WPW10446920 Dryer Push-To-Start Switch fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Inglis dryers that won't start when the Start button is pressed, even though the dryer otherwise has power. This is the factory-original Whirlpool switch — not an aftermarket equivalent — with a 3-terminal wiring connector. Replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857. Classic symptom: display and lights work, but pressing Start produces no response at all. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dryer won't start when the Start button is pressed Start button feels loose, mushy, or requires multiple presses to register Dryer has power (lights/display work) but the motor never engages Intermittent starting — sometimes works, sometimes doesn't Audible click from the button with no response from the dryer Start switch visibly cracked, stuck, or not returning after being pressed Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This push-to-start switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WPW10446920, W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This push-to-start switch is compatible with select Whirlpool-built dryers from the following brands: Whirlpool dryers (including 7MWED1650EQ0, 7MWGD1750EQ0, 7MWGD1850EI0 and related models) Maytag dryers (select Whirlpool-built models, including MED4005SW0, MGD4005SW0) Amana dryers (select models, including NED4700YQ0, NGD4700YQ1) Kenmore dryers (select Whirlpool-built models, including 11062332511, 11072332510) Inglis, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Admiral dryers (select Whirlpool-built models) Note: This switch is specific to dryers with a push-to-start button. It is not used on models with a rotary or pull-to-start knob — those use a different start switch design. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM push-to-start switch — factory-original fit, form, and function Resolves "won't start," "mushy button," and "intermittent start" symptoms caused by switch failure Momentary contact design — signals the timer/control board to begin the cycle 3-terminal wiring connector matching original factory harness Direct-fit mounting to the original control panel opening Replaces W10446920, 4446934, AP6021533, AWP51175, EAP11754857, OEM18064608, PD00038667, PS11754857 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Inglis dryers Genuine OEM part — factory-specified materials and electrical rating Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WPW10446920 OEM Part Number WPW10446920 Part Type Dryer Push-To-Start Switch Condition Genuine OEM Replacement Switch Type Momentary Push Button Terminals 3-terminal wiring connector Application Push-To-Start Dryer Control Panels Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, Inglis Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Dryer Before Starting Disconnect power before beginning. Access the control panel — on most models this means removing a few screws along the top or rear of the console, or releasing spring clips, and tilting or lifting the panel to expose the back of the start switch. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the 3-terminal wiring connector from the old switch — note the connector orientation. Depress the retaining tabs or remove the mounting screw(s) holding the switch in the control panel and push it out from the back. Install the new WPW10446920 switch into the same opening until it snaps or seats into place. Reconnect the wiring connector, matching your photos. Reassemble the control panel and secure it with its screws or clips. Plug the dryer back in and test by pressing Start — confirm the dryer begins its cycle. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips, if applicable). Frequently Asked Questions My dryer has power but won't start when I press the button — is this the part? This is the classic symptom of a failed push-to-start switch. If the display and any lights still work but pressing Start produces no response — not even a click or hum from the motor — the start switch is the most common cause. If you do hear a hum or click but the drum still doesn't turn, also check the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat, since a tripped thermal fuse can sometimes present with similar no-start symptoms. Will this fit my dryer? WPW10446920 and its cross-reference numbers fit a range of Whirlpool-built dryers across several brands, but only models with a push-to-start button — not a rotary or pull-to-start knob. Confirm fit using your dryer's exact model number before ordering, since the two start mechanisms are not interchangeable. Is this a genuine Whirlpool part or an aftermarket equivalent? This is the genuine, factory-original Whirlpool part — not an aftermarket equivalent. It ships with the same contacts, housing, and 3-terminal connector used in original production, so there's no guesswork on fit, feel, or electrical rating. Do I need any special tools to install this? No — just a Phillips screwdriver and, on some models, a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the control panel's spring clips. No soldering or wire splicing is required; the switch connects via its original 3-terminal plug. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine Whirlpool OEM Part ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10420741 Genuine OEM Dryer Push To Start Switch - Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag Product Description Restore your dryer’s functionality with the WPW10420741 Genuine OEM Dryer Push To Start Switch. This Whirlpool-manufactured switch, featuring screw terminals, is designed as a replacement for select Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and other compatible dryers. It initiates the drying cycle with a simple button press, addressing issues like the dryer not starting or starting inconsistently. Built for durability, it ensures reliable performance under frequent use. Note: Includes (1) push to start switch. Disconnect power before installation. Verify compatibility with your dryer model. Replaces part numbers: WPW10420741, W10420741, PD00008413, EAP3632880, AP6021228, PS11754549. Compatibility: Compatible with select dryer models, including but not limited to: Whirlpool: WET4027HW0, WET4027HW1, WET4027HW2, YWET4027HW0, 7MWGT4027HW0 Kenmore: 110.97591420, 110.97591220, 110.97592420 Maytag: YNED4655EW, YIED4671EW Roper: RED4516FW0, RED4640YQ0, RED4640YQ1, RED4645EW0 Crosley: VDEW6511RW0, VED6505GW0 Amana: NED4655EW0 Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance. Key Features: ✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Roper, Crosley, Amana, and other dryers. 🔧 Specifications: Genuine OEM Whirlpool push to start switch with screw terminals, 120V, 2-terminal configuration. 💪 Reliable Performance: Initiates drying cycle with a button press, ensuring consistent operation. 🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires a screwdriver; typically installed in 10–20 minutes. 🛡️ Effective Fixes: Resolves dryer not starting or inconsistent starting issues. Product Specification Part Number: WPW10420741 Component Type: Dryer push to start switch Material: Plastic and brass/stainless steel Electrical Specs: 120V, 2-terminal, normally open, single-pole single-throw (SPST) Compliance: UL-listed, Prop 65 warning for California Installation Notes: Safety First: Disconnect the dryer from the power source before installation. Shop for high-quality appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Keep your dryer running smoothly today! Add to cart now for a reliable fix!

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XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch The XPARTCO WH12X955 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units (including GE spacemaker and stacked laundry models). The lid switch is a safety component mounted inside the washer lid — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and signals the control that it's safe for the machine to start, agitate, and spin. When the lid closes, the switch activates and the washer can run through its full cycle. If the lid switch fails, the washer typically won't spin or drain, may not start or agitate at all, and clothes are left sitting in water. This is a complete lid switch assembly with an integrated wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wire harness that routes from the lid down into the washer cabinet). It directly replaces WH12X955, WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363. Installation involves accessing the lid itself — the switch mounts inside the lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WH12X955 Washer Lid Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo units where the washer won't spin, won't drain, won't start, or won't agitate — leaving clothes sitting in water. Complete lid switch assembly with wiring harness and ground wire. Dimensions 1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D. Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, OEM6137363. Classic symptom: washer won't spin or drain. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom Washer won't drain — clothes left sitting in water at the end of the cycle Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — the machine won't advance past the fill phase Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is Lid switch body cracked from the lid being closed hard over time Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling that the lid is closed Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Broken or frayed lid switch wiring harness Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH12X955, 278666, AGE25981, AH270219, EA270219, PD00030733, EAP270219, PS270219, AP2045786, WH12X0955, EXPWH12X955 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select washer/dryer combo units (spacemaker and stacked laundry models) from the following brands: GE washer/dryer combo units — spacemaker and stacked laundry center models GE Spacemaker washers — select models Hotpoint washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) RCA washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears washer/dryer combo units (select GE-built models) Note: This lid switch is specific to GE washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units — it is NOT the same switch used on standalone GE top-load washers, which use different lid switch part numbers. Always search by your appliance model number to confirm this part fits before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Lid switch safety assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and allows the washer to start, agitate, spin, and drain when the lid is shut Resolves the classic "won't spin" and "won't drain" symptoms of lid switch failure Complete assembly with integrated wiring harness and ground wire Dimensions: 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D (the 16" depth is the wiring harness) Mounts inside the washer lid with two screws plus a separate ground wire screw Snap-in switch design with connector — no wiring modifications required Replaces WH12X0955, AP2045786, 278666, AH270219, EA270219, PS270219, and OEM6137363 Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY-friendly repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number WH12X955 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Washer/Dryer Combo & Spacemaker Units (GE platform) Dimensions 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W x 16" D Includes Lid switch, wiring harness, ground wire Function Prevents washer spin/agitation when lid is open Location Inside the washer lid Mounting Two screws + separate ground wire screw Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — The Lid Comes Off Disconnect power at the outlet or breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges. This repair requires removing the washer lid to access the switch. Open the lid, then push it toward the back of the machine to release the plastic clips at the front that hold the lid up. Slowly lift the lid at the front — you'll see the lid switch is the only thing still connecting the lid to the washer body. Confirm the power is off, then unclip the electrical connector that joins the lid switch harness to the washer's wiring (it's typically a molex-style connector). With the connector released, you can carry the lid to a workbench or flat surface to work on it comfortably. On the underside/inside of the lid, remove the two screws on the right-hand side that hold the switch in place, then remove the screw that secures the ground wire to the inside of the lid. Lift out the old switch. The new WH12X955 switch snaps into place — seat it, reinstall the two mounting screws, and reattach the ground wire with its screw. Route the new harness cable through the same path as the old one; you can gently lift the retaining clips with a flathead screwdriver to slide the new cable through. Reconnect the electrical connector, set the lid back into position, and press it down until the front plastic clips engage. Restore power and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer agitates, drains, and spins. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, flathead screwdriver, work gloves. (Tip: if you drop the ground wire nut inside the cabinet, a magnet on a stick makes retrieval easy.) Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin or drain — is the lid switch the cause? Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body, worn internal contacts, or broken wiring), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin and drain phases as a safety measure — leaving your clothes sitting in water. On many GE washer/dryer combos, a failed lid switch will also prevent the machine from starting or agitating at all. If your washer fills but goes no further, or completes the wash but leaves clothes soaked, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is depressed. Why is this switch 16" long? The 16" dimension is the length of the wiring harness, not the switch body itself. The switch mounts inside the washer lid, and its harness has to route from the lid, through the hinge area, down into the washer cabinet to reach the main wiring connector. That's why the assembly comes with a long attached cable — and it's also why this repair involves removing the lid to access everything. The switch body itself is compact at roughly 1-1/4" H x 2-1/4" W. Does this fit my standalone GE top-load washer? Probably not. The WH12X955 is specifically used on GE washer/dryer combo units and spacemaker/stacked laundry models. Standalone GE top-load washers use different lid switch part numbers. Because the lid switch design and mounting vary significantly across GE's washer lineup, always search by your appliance model number to confirm the correct part before ordering. If your unit is a standalone top-loader, contact our support team with your model number and we'll identify the right lid switch for it. Do I really have to take the lid off to install this? On most compatible models, yes — the lid switch mounts inside the lid itself, so you'll need to release the lid from the washer body to reach the two mounting screws and the ground wire screw. The good news is that the lid comes off fairly easily: push it toward the back to release the front plastic clips, then lift it slowly, unclip the electrical connector, and carry the lid to a comfortable work surface. Working on the lid off the machine is far easier than trying to reach into a cramped laundry closet. Just be sure power is disconnected before unclipping the connector. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions (1-1/4"H x 2-1/4"W x 16"D), harness and ground wire configuration, connector, mounting, and lid-detection function of the original WH12X955 lid switch used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built washer/dryer combo and spacemaker units. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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DC34-00025G Washer Genuine OEM Lid Switch and Lock Assembly – Fits Samsung Washers Product Overview The DC34-00025G Washer Lid Switch and Lock Assembly is a genuine OEM replacement part that ensures your washer lid stays securely locked during wash and spin cycles. This part detects when the lid is closed and locks it to prevent accidental opening, providing safety and proper cycle operation. A worn or broken lid lock can cause your washer to stop mid-cycle, display error codes, or fail to start. Replacing it restores dependable washer performance and safety compliance. Replaces Part Numbers This lid switch and lock assembly replaces DC34-00025G, AP6884125, PS12720530. Manufactured to original equipment specifications for a precise fit and long-term durability. Compatible Brands Compatible with select Samsung top-load washers manufactured by Samsung. Fits a variety of models using this specific lid lock assembly. Fixes the Following Issues Washer won’t start or stops mid-cycle Lid doesn’t lock properly Error codes related to lid switch or lock failure Washer won't enter spin or drain cycles Why Buy from Parts‑O‑Matic Factory-original genuine OEM part Fast and free U.S. shipping Trusted by appliance professionals and DIYers Backed by reliable customer support

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Genuine OEM EBF61674802 Washer Lid Switch and Lock Assembly The Genuine OEM LG EBF61674802 is the lid switch and lock assembly for select LG and Kenmore top-load washers. The assembly includes the switch mechanism and a connecting wire that links the lid latch to the washer's electrical system. The switch tells the washer the lid is latched so a cycle can start, and the lock keeps the lid closed during the cycle. When it fails, the washer may not start, the lid may not latch or lock, or the washer may show a DL error code. This is the original LG part, not an aftermarket equivalent. It is sold individually. Check your model number before ordering. Quick Answer The Genuine OEM EBF61674802 Lid Switch and Lock Assembly replaces the lid switch and lock on a compatible LG or Kenmore top-load washer when it has failed. Replaces EBF60665201, EBF61674801, EBF61674804 and TAW36158136. Classic symptoms: the washer won't start, the lid won't latch or lock, or a DL error code appears. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't start Lid won't close or latch Lid locking problems, including a lock stuck in the locked position DL error code Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This lid switch and lock assembly replaces or supersedes the following part numbers: EBF61674802, EBF60665201, EBF61674801, EBF61674804, TAW36158136, 2025745, 2703681, 4877523, ALG54727, AP5210199, EAP8751171, PD00023037, PS8751171 If your old assembly shows a different number, contact our support team and we'll check whether it matches. Compatibility This lid switch and lock assembly is listed for LG and Kenmore top-load washers, including these examples: LG 25667, 29002, 31553, 31623, WT5270CW, WT7700HVA LG WT7200CV/00, WT7300CW/00, WT7100CW/00 Kenmore 79629272001, 79629002000, 79629472000, 79631512210 Note: The models above are a sample of roughly 30 that retailers list, not a full list. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team to verify fit before ordering. Key Features Genuine OEM LG part, not an aftermarket equivalent Includes the switch mechanism and connecting wire to the lid latch Tells the washer the lid is latched so a cycle can start Sold individually Product Specifications Part Number EBF61674802 OEM Part Number EBF61674802 Part Type Washer Lid Switch and Lock Assembly Condition Genuine OEM Manufacturer LG Quantity 1 Assembly Application Select LG and Kenmore Top-Load Washers Installation Notes ⚠️ Disconnect Power And Water Before Installing Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before you begin. Remove the access panel per your model's service guide, note how the wire connector attaches, and disconnect it. Remove the old assembly, snap the new assembly into place, and reconnect the wire. Refit the panel, restore power and water, and test that the lid latches and the washer starts. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows a DL error or won't start. Is this the part I need? It can be. Check the wiring first, then the lid switch and lock. Other parts, such as the control board, can cause similar symptoms, so confirm the lock assembly is the problem before replacing it. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part from LG, not an aftermarket equivalent. Is this for top-load or front-load washers? It is listed for top-load washers. For any other washer type, match the part number and your model number, or contact our support team. Will this fit my washer? It is listed for about 30 LG and Kenmore models, but the model list above is only a sample. Check your full model number against your parts diagram, or contact our support team and we'll verify it before you order. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 3355806 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP3355806 The XPARTCO 3355806 is an aftermarket replacement stackable washer lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Magic Chef stacked washer/dryer laundry centers (thin twin and space-saver units). The lid switch is a safety component mounted near the top of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning while the lid is open. When you close the lid, a pin on the lid activates the lever on the switch, signaling the control that it's safe to spin. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer won't spin as a safety measure, even though it may still fill and agitate normally. The switch commonly fails in one of two ways: the plastic body cracks from the lid being slammed over time, or the internal switch contacts wear out and can no longer signal that the lid is closed. Features an 11" wiring harness with round plugs and a 7/8" block connector. It directly replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 3355806, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529, and PD00002599. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools and novice repair experience. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 3355806 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and KitchenAid stacked washer/dryer laundry centers where the washer won't spin but still agitates and fills, the machine doesn't detect the lid is closed, or the washer won't start. Stackable washer lid switch assembly — 11" harness with round plugs, 7/8" block. Replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529. Compatible with Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243, and Kenmore thin twin models. Classic symptom: won't spin but still agitates. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin but still agitates and fills — the classic lid switch failure symptom Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Machine doesn't recognize the lid is closed even when it is Lid switch body cracked from the lid being slammed over time Internal switch contacts worn out — no longer signaling lid closed Washer stops mid-cycle when it should transition to spin Clothes coming out sopping wet because the spin cycle never runs Intermittent operation — washer sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP3355806, ER3355806, 3355806, AP6008072, AWP47529, EAP11741201, PD00002599, PS11741201. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select stacked washer/dryer laundry centers (thin twin / space-saver units) from the following brands: Whirlpool laundry centers — LTE5243DQ0-DQ8, LTE5243DT2-DT7, LTE5243DZ0/DZ1/DZ2, LTE5243BN0/BN1, LTG5243DQ0-DQC, LTG5243DT3/DT4/DT7/DT8, LTG5243DZ1/DZ2, LTG5243BN0/BN1 series and related Whirlpool laundry centers — WET4024EW and related stacked models Roper laundry centers — RTE5243BL0, RTE5243BW0, RTG5243BL0, RTG5243BW0 series Kenmore / Sears laundry centers — thin twin models (110.9975820, 110088732791-11088754793, 11098573100-11098573800 series and related) Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef — select stacked washer/dryer models Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Stackable washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning when the lid is open Resolves the classic "won't spin but still agitates" symptom of lid switch failure Restores the safety interlock and allows the washer to complete its spin cycle Features an 11" wiring harness with round plugs and a 7/8" block connector Designed for thin twin, space-saver, and other stacked washer/dryer laundry centers Replaces WP3355806, WP3355806VP, 520880, AP6008072, AP2947199, AH11741201, EA11741201, EAP11741201, PS11741201, PS341529, and PD00002599 Compatible with Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243 series, and Kenmore thin twin laundry centers, plus Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, and Magic Chef stacked units Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 3355806 OEM Part Number WP3355806 Part Type Stackable Washer Lid Switch Assembly Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Stacked Washer/Dryer Laundry Centers (Whirlpool platform) Harness Length 11" with round plugs Block Connector 7/8" Function Prevents washer spin when lid is open Location Near top of washer, behind front panel Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, KitchenAid, Maytag, Admiral, Amana, Crosley, Inglis, Magic Chef Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the appliance (or shut off the house circuit breaker) and turn off the hot and cold water supplies before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. On these stacked laundry centers, the lid switch is accessed by removing the front panel or the top panel — unscrew the screws along the edge of the panel and set it aside. Note: on some Whirlpool space-saver units, the hardest part of the job is getting the washer lid off to access the switch, so take your time and consult a model-specific diagram or video. Once the panel is off, locate the lid switch assembly near the top of the machine. Photograph the wiring harness connections before disconnecting anything. Unscrew the retaining screws that hold the lid switch in place, then carefully disconnect the wiring harness from the switch. Connect the wiring harness to the terminals on the new 3355806 switch, following the diagram on the switch for proper installation. Secure the new switch in place with the retaining screws. Reinstall the panel and secure it with the screws. Turn the water supplies back on, plug the washer back in, and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — the machine should advance to spin when the lid is shut. Tools needed: Multi-screwdriver, socket wrench (some models), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer agitates and fills but won't spin — is the lid switch the cause? Yes — this is the single most common and telling symptom of a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents the drum from spinning while the lid is open. When the switch fails (cracked body or worn internal contacts), the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin cycle as a safety measure — but agitation and fill still work because those don't require the lid interlock. If your washer runs through wash and agitate normally but stops when it should spin, leaving clothes sopping wet, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed. What causes the lid switch to fail? There are two common failure modes. First, the plastic body of the switch can crack over time from the lid being closed hard or slammed repeatedly — the repeated impact stresses the housing until it fractures. Second, the internal electrical contacts wear out from thousands of open/close cycles and can no longer make a reliable connection to signal that the lid is closed. Either way, the fix is the same: replace the lid switch assembly. To extend the life of the new switch, close the lid gently rather than letting it slam. What's the difference between 3355806 and WP3355806? These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 3355806 was the original part number and WP3355806 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted) for the same switch. WP3355806VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your laundry center's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The cross-references 520880, AP6008072, and PS11741201 are additional catalog identifiers for the same part. Does this fit my thin twin or space-saver laundry center? This lid switch is specifically designed for stacked washer/dryer laundry centers — the "thin twin," space-saver, and similar stacked units from Whirlpool and its related brands. It fits the Whirlpool LTE5243/LTG5243 series, Roper RTE5243/RTG5243 series, and a wide range of Kenmore thin twin models, among others. Check your model number against the compatibility list above. If your unit is a standalone (non-stacked) top-load washer, it likely uses a different lid switch — contact our support team with your model number and we'll confirm the correct part. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the fit, 11" harness with round plugs, 7/8" block connector, terminal configuration, and lid-detection function of the original WP3355806 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, and related stacked washer/dryer laundry centers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WB24X25013 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch Replaces WB24X47186. The WB24X25013 is a genuine GE OEM infinite control switch for a dual (bridge) surface element on GE, Hotpoint, and select Kenmore electric ranges — the kind of burner with an inner coil and an outer coil that can be run together for a large pot or as the inner coil alone for a small pan. Because it's governing two coil zones instead of one, this switch uses six terminal connections rather than the three or four found on a standard single-element infinite switch, and it mounts to the control panel with a distinctive figure-8 style shaft and two female mounting holes. Like any infinite switch, it doesn't have fixed heat positions — instead it rapidly cycles power to the element(s) on and off at a ratio set by the knob, giving continuous heat adjustment from warm to high rather than a handful of steps. Rated for 240VAC at 15 amps. Over years of cycling, the internal contacts on a switch like this wear, pit, or weld together, and boilovers or spills can corrode the switch body and cause it to fail. A worn switch on a dual-element burner can produce an unusually wide symptom set: the whole burner may fail, or just the outer ring may stop responding while the inner coil still works, or the burner may stay on continuously regardless of the knob position. It directly replaces WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, and 4464832. As a genuine OEM part, the WB24X25013 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The WB24X25013 Genuine OEM GE Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch fixes GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges with a dual (bridge) element burner where the burner won't turn on or off, only the outer ring fails to work while the inner coil still heats, the burner stays on continuously, or heat can't be adjusted. Six-terminal switch, figure-8 shaft, 240VAC / 15A. Replaces WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, 4464832. Not the same switch as a standard single-element infinite switch — this one is specific to dual/bridge burners with an inner and outer coil. Common Problems This Part Fixes Dual-element burner won't turn on at all when the knob is turned Outer ring of a dual/bridge element won't activate while the inner coil still works Burner won't turn off — stays hot even with the knob at the off position Burner stuck at one heat level regardless of where the knob is set No ability to adjust temperature — always full blast or always low Intermittent burner operation — works sometimes, not others Knob feels loose, gritty, or doesn't turn smoothly through its range Burner failure that followed a boilover or liquid spill on the control panel Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This range surface burner infinite switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WB24X25013, WB24X47186, 191D4774P005, AGE1543754, AP7216136, PS11729102, PS17872685, EAP11729102, 4464832, 191D4774P005, MDSA-W767-GEM If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This dual-element infinite switch is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore electric ranges equipped with a dual (bridge) surface element, including model families such as: GE JB6, JB7, and JB8 series electric ranges (including JB630, JB640, JB645, and JB655) GE JBS series electric ranges GE JS6 and JS7 series electric ranges (including the JS760 series) GE GRS and GRF series electric ranges Hotpoint electric ranges (select GE-built models) Select Kenmore electric ranges built on the GE platform Verified model numbers include: JB645RK6SS, JS760EP6ES, JS760DP6WW, JS760SP7SS, JS760DP7WW, JS760SP6SS, JS760FP7DS, JS760FP6DS, JS760EP7ES, JB860EJAES, JB860FJADS, and GRS500PV1SS. Note: This is a six-terminal switch built specifically for a dual (bridge) element with a figure-8 style shaft and two female mounting holes — it is NOT interchangeable with a standard single-element infinite switch such as the WB24T10029 or WB24T10025, which use fewer terminals and a different shaft profile. Fitting a standard single-element switch to a dual-element burner circuit will not correctly control both coil zones. Always verify your full model number and confirm the affected burner is a dual/bridge element before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified contact design for dual-element switching Six-terminal design controls both the inner coil and outer ring of a dual (bridge) surface element Figure-8 style shaft with two female mounting holes matched to the original control panel bracket Infinite switch design allows continuous heat adjustment rather than a handful of fixed positions Rated 240VAC at 15 amps Resolves "burner won't turn on," "outer ring not working," "won't turn off," and "stuck at one heat level" symptoms caused by worn or corroded switch contacts Direct drop-in replacement — mounts to the same control panel bracket and wiring harness Replaces 191D4774P005, AP5999509, PS11729102, EAP11729102, and 4464832 Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number WB24X25013 Part Type Range Surface Burner Infinite Switch (Dual/Bridge Element) Condition Genuine OEM Brand GE Element Type Controlled Dual (bridge) surface element — inner coil + outer ring Terminal Connections 6 Shaft Style Figure-8 Mounting Two female mounting holes Voltage 240VAC Amperage 15A Function Cycles element power to allow continuous (infinite) heat adjustment across both coil zones Quantity 1 switch Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ 240V Circuit — Unplug Range Or Shut Off Breaker Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning — this switch operates on a 240V circuit, and working on it while powered presents a serious shock hazard. Wear work gloves. Remove the burner knob (it typically pulls straight off, though some models use a small retaining clip) then remove the screws securing the control panel or backsplash to reach the switch from behind. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting anything — this is a six-terminal switch, and getting even one wire out of place can miswire the inner coil, the outer ring, or both. Label each wire as you remove it. Disconnect all six terminal connections from the old switch, then remove the mounting screws from the two mounting holes and pull the switch free from its figure-8 shaft opening. Install the new WB24X25013 in the same orientation, reconnect each of the six wires exactly as labeled, and secure the mounting hardware. Reinstall the control panel or backsplash, press the knob back onto the shaft, restore power, and test the burner at every knob position — confirm the inner coil and outer ring both activate correctly (together and, if your model supports it, with the outer ring switched off independently) before considering the repair complete. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, wire terminal pliers (helpful but optional), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if my burner uses a dual-element switch like this one? Look at the burner element itself: a dual (bridge) element has two distinct coil rings — a smaller inner coil and a larger outer ring — usually with a separate control or a knob position that lets you activate just the inner coil for a small pan or both rings together for a large pot. A standard single-ring element has only one coil and uses a simpler switch with fewer terminals. If your range has this two-ring burner design, the WB24X25013 (or the exact switch behind it) is the correct type — but always confirm your model number, since dual-element switches vary by range generation. Only the outer ring of my dual burner doesn't work. Is it the switch or the element? It could be either, and it's worth narrowing down before ordering. If the inner coil heats normally but the outer ring never activates at any knob position, check the outer ring element itself first — a broken element coil is a common and cheaper fix than a switch. If the outer ring element tests fine but the switch's six-terminal wiring specific to the outer coil circuit has failed or corroded, the infinite switch is the correct replacement. Can I use a standard single-element infinite switch instead if this one is out of stock? No. A standard single-element switch has fewer terminals and cannot correctly control the two separate coil zones of a dual (bridge) burner. Wiring a single-element switch into a dual-element circuit will leave one coil zone permanently uncontrolled or non-functional. Always order the six-terminal dual-element switch specified for your model. What does "infinite switch" mean? An infinite switch lets you dial in a continuous range of heat rather than a few fixed positions, by rapidly cycling the element's power on and off at a ratio set by the knob — low settings get short power pulses, high settings get long ones. When the internal contacts wear or weld together from years of cycling, the switch can get stuck feeding constant power (burner always hot) or stop switching at all (burner always off), regardless of where the knob is turned. A spill got into the control panel and now the burner won't turn off. Is that the switch? Very likely, yes. Liquid boilovers and spills are one of the most common causes of infinite switch failure — moisture gets into the switch body, corrodes or bridges the internal contacts, and the switch can end up stuck feeding power continuously even with the knob turned to off. If you suspect this, shut off power to the range immediately at the breaker rather than relying on the knob, since a shorted switch may not respond to it at all. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original six-terminal wiring, figure-8 shaft, 240VAC/15A electrical rating, and dual-coil switching behavior of the infinite switch originally installed for the dual (bridge) element in your GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore range. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Replaces WP8318084 The XPARTCO 8318084 is an aftermarket replacement lid switch assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washing machines. The lid switch is a safety component located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer — it detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents the washer from spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the lid is closed, the switch signals the control that it's safe to operate. Without a functioning lid switch, the washer may refuse to start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, or stop advancing through its cycle. Gray and white plastic housing. Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. Features 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire. It directly replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61. This is one of the most widely used lid switches across the Whirlpool direct-drive platform, fitting hundreds of top-load washer models. Installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO 8318084 Washer Lid Switch fixes Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley direct-drive top-load washers that won't start, won't spin, won't agitate, won't drain, won't advance through the cycle, or have a burning smell from the motor. Gray/white, 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP. 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H. 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire. Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957. Classic symptom: won't spin but may still fill. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't spin — the classic lid switch failure symptom on direct-drive washers Washer won't start at all — control not detecting a closed lid Washer won't agitate — lid switch blocking motor engagement Washer won't drain — drain is tied to the spin/lid interlock on many models Wash cycle not advancing past fill — stuck waiting for lid-closed signal Burning smell from the motor area — motor stalling because the switch won't engage Lid won't close properly or switch doesn't activate when lid is shut Intermittent operation — washer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on lid position Lid switch visibly cracked, broken, or with a failed lever Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer lid switch directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WP8318084, 8318084, WP8318084VP, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, 045903691979, 11480-61, PN8318084, AWP48129, EAP11745957, 11480-61, PN8318084, PD00002474, AP6012742, PS11745957. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This lid switch assembly is compatible with select direct-drive top-load washing machines from the following brands: Whirlpool top-load washers — direct-drive models (including 1CLBR, 1CLSQ, 1CLSR, LSQ, LSR, LSW, WTW series and many more) Kenmore and Kenmore Elite top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models — 110-series) KitchenAid top-load washers (select models) Roper top-load washers (select models) Estate top-load washers (select models) Maytag top-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana top-load washers (select models) Magic Chef top-load washers (select models) Crosley top-load washers (select models) Admiral top-load washers (select models) Note: This lid switch is specific to direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. It is NOT the same switch used on stacked laundry centers, washer/dryer combos, or front-load washers — those use different lid switch or door lock part numbers. Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Direct-drive washer lid switch assembly — detects whether the lid is open or closed and prevents spinning, agitating, and draining when the lid is open Resolves "won't start," "won't spin," "won't agitate," "won't drain," "cycle not advancing," and "burning smell" symptoms caused by lid switch failure Gray and white plastic housing — durable construction Electrical rating: 125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP Dimensions: 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H 3 flat terminals that the wiring harness plugs onto, plus a green grounding wire Located under the control panel on the top rear left corner of the washer One of the most widely used lid switches on the Whirlpool direct-drive platform — fits hundreds of top-load washer models Replaces WP8318084, WP8318084VP, AP3180933, AP6012742, AH886960, EA886960, EAP11745957, ES8084, TJ90ES8084, PD00002474, PN8318084, PS886960, PS11745957, and 11480-61 Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, and Admiral direct-drive top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick DIY repair — installs in 15–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number 8318084 OEM Part Number WP8318084 Part Type Washer Lid Switch Assembly (Direct-Drive Top-Load) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Direct-Drive Top-Load Washing Machines (Whirlpool platform) Voltage 125–250V Frequency 50–60 Hz Motor Rating 1/2 HP Dimensions 3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H Terminals 3 flat terminals + green grounding wire Color Gray / White Material Plastic housing Location Under the control panel, top rear left corner Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Disconnect power before beginning. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The lid switch is located under the control panel at the top rear left corner of the washer. To access it, you'll need to remove the control panel: on most direct-drive washers, use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the bottom edge of the control panel (typically two clips), then flip the control panel up and back on its hinges to rest against the wall behind the washer. You should now see the lid switch mounted on the left side with two screws. Photograph the wiring before disconnecting. Unplug the wiring harness from the 3 flat terminals on the old lid switch — note how the harness connects. Remove the two mounting screws holding the old switch in place. Also disconnect the green grounding wire (it's attached separately with its own screw). Remove the old switch. Install the new 8318084 switch in the same position using the two mounting screws. Reconnect the green grounding wire with its screw. Plug the wiring harness back onto the 3 flat terminals, matching your photos. Flip the control panel back down and press it into place until the spring clips snap. Plug the washer back in and test by closing the lid and running a cycle — confirm the washer starts, agitates, spins, and drains. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver (for spring clips), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer won't spin but still fills — is the lid switch the problem? Very likely, yes. On direct-drive top-load washers, the lid switch is a safety interlock that prevents spinning and agitating when the lid is open. When the switch fails, the control never receives the "lid closed" signal, so it blocks the spin (and often the agitate and drain) as a safety measure — but filling still works because that doesn't require the lid interlock. If your washer fills but won't advance past that point, or agitates but refuses to spin, the lid switch is the prime suspect. You can confirm by testing the switch for continuity with a multimeter when the lever is pressed — a working switch shows continuity when activated. Why would a bad lid switch cause a burning smell? This happens when the motor tries to engage but the lid switch isn't signaling correctly, causing the motor to stall or repeatedly attempt to start without completing the cycle. A stalling direct-drive motor generates heat that produces a burning smell. If you notice a burning smell AND the washer isn't spinning or agitating properly, check the lid switch first — it's far more likely (and cheaper) than a motor failure. If the burning smell continues after replacing the switch, have the motor and motor coupling inspected by a technician. What's the difference between 8318084 and WP8318084? These are the same lid switch across production revisions. 8318084 was the original part number and WP8318084 is the Whirlpool-era part number (with the "WP" prefix Whirlpool adopted). WP8318084VP is a variant packaging code. All are physically and functionally identical — if your washer's parts diagram shows any of these numbers, this listing is the correct replacement. The many additional cross-references (AP3180933, AP6012742, ES8084, PS886960, PS11745957, etc.) are catalog identifiers from various parts distributors for the same switch. Does this fit my stacked laundry center or front-load washer? No — the 8318084 is specifically designed for standalone direct-drive top-load washers on the Whirlpool platform. Stacked washer/dryer laundry centers use different lid switch part numbers (such as the 3355806 for Whirlpool thin twin units), and front-load washers use door lock assemblies instead of lid switches. Always search by your appliance's model number to confirm the correct part. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which switch fits your machine. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (125–250V, 50–60Hz, 1/2 HP), dimensions (3"L x 2"W x 1-15/16"H), 3-flat-terminal configuration, grounding wire, and lid-detection function of the original WP8318084 lid switch used in compatible Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, and related direct-drive top-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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Genuine Whirlpool W10727360 Microwave Door Switch - Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Kenmore Product Description Ensure safe microwave operation with the Genuine Whirlpool W10727360 Microwave Door Switch. This OEM three-terminal switch is designed for select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, and Kenmore microwaves, preventing operation when the door is open to protect users from radiation exposure. Crafted for precise fit and reliable performance, it restores functionality, addressing issues like the microwave not starting or running with the door open. Note: Includes one three-terminal door switch. Disconnect power before installation. Professional installation is recommended due to microwave shielding requirements. Replaces part numbers: W10727360, W10269457, 3379124, PD00026511, EAP10057151, AP5950105, PS10057151, W10727360VP. Compatibility: Compatible with models including but not limited to: Whirlpool: WMH31017FB0, WMH31017HB0, WMH31017FS0, WMH31017FW0, WMH75021HZ0 Maytag: MMV4205FZ0, MMV6190FZ0 Amana: AMV2307PFS0 KitchenAid: KMHS120ESS0 Jenn-Air: JMV8208CS0 Kenmore: (select models, verify compatibility) Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance. Key Features: ✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, and Kenmore microwaves. 🔐 Specifications: OEM three-terminal door switch, approximately 1.5 inches with metal terminals, for precise safety control. 💪 Reliable Performance: Authentic Whirlpool part ensures long-lasting durability and safe operation. 🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires screwdriver and typically installed in 15–30 minutes by a professional. 🛡️ Effective Fixes: Resolves microwave not starting, intermittent stopping, running with door open, or unusual door noises. Product Specification Part Number: Genuine Whirlpool W10727360 Component Type: Microwave door switch (three-terminal) Material: Plastic housing with metal terminals Electrical: Compatible with 120V microwave circuits Mounting: Screw-mounted with spring mechanism, typically located behind the control panel Operating Conditions: Suitable for household microwave environments Compliance: Prop 65 warning for California Installation Notes: Safety First: Disconnect the microwave from the power source before installation. Shop for high-quality Genuine appliance parts with a 30-day return policy. Keep your microwave safe and functional today! Add to cart now for a reliable fix!

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XPARTCO DG34-00027B Range Membrane Switch (Touchpad) The XPARTCO DG34-00027B is an aftermarket replacement membrane switch touchpad for Samsung gas ranges. This is the keypad panel itself — the physical layer of touch-sensitive buttons you press to select temperature, set the time, and choose a cooking mode. Underneath a thin, durable overlay, this membrane switch reads each button press as a distinct signal and passes it along to the range's main control board, which then acts on the command. Unlike the main control board, this component doesn't process or execute anything on its own — it's purely the interface between your finger and the board. Because of that division of labor, a failing membrane switch produces a very specific pattern that's easy to distinguish from a control board failure: certain buttons stop responding, specific functions become impossible to select, or particular settings can no longer be adjusted, while the rest of the panel — including the clock, display, and other buttons — continues working normally. If instead the entire display goes blank or the whole panel stops responding at once, that points to the main control board rather than this touchpad. It directly replaces DG34-00027A, AP5986689, and PS11735749. Quick Answer The XPARTCO DG34-00027B Range Membrane Switch (Touchpad) fixes Samsung gas ranges where certain buttons don't respond, specific functions can't be selected, or particular settings won't adjust — while the rest of the control panel, including the clock and display, still works normally. Replaces DG34-00027A, AP5986689, PS11735749. If the entire display is blank or completely unresponsive, or the clock works but no heating functions operate at all, the problem is more likely the main control board (such as our DE92-02588G listing) rather than this touchpad. Common Problems This Part Fixes Certain buttons on the control panel don't respond when pressed Specific cooking functions or modes can't be selected Particular temperature or time settings can't be adjusted Some buttons work fine while others are unresponsive or intermittent Touchpad feels unresponsive or requires repeated presses to register Visible wear, cracking, or bubbling on the touchpad overlay surface Buttons that used to work reliably have become inconsistent over time Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This range membrane switch touchpad directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: DG34-00027B, DG34-00027A, AP5986689, ASM912846, EAP11735749, PD00027535, PS11735749 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This membrane switch touchpad is compatible with select Samsung gas ranges, including model numbers such as: NX58H5600SS NX58J5600SG NX58F5700WS NX58M5600SB Note: Samsung uses several similarly-numbered membrane switch touchpads across its range lineup — including DG34-00025A (for NX58F5300SS/NX58F5500SS/NX58F5500SB), DG34-00020A (for NE594R0/NE59J3420/NE59J3421), and DG96-00850H (for NE63A6511) — each for different model groups and not interchangeable with this one. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure which touchpad fits your range. Key Features Aftermarket replacement membrane switch touchpad — the touch-sensitive keypad interface for the control panel Resolves "certain buttons unresponsive," "can't select specific functions," and "settings won't adjust" symptoms caused by a worn or damaged membrane Durable overlay material designed for long-term wear resistance Smooth surface that's easy to clean and maintain Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original control panel mounting Replaces DG34-00027A, AP5986689, and PS11735749 Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair with basic tools Product Specifications Part Number XPDG34-00027B OEM Part Number DG34-00027B (also DG34-00027A) Part Type Range Membrane Switch (Touchpad) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Gas Ranges Color Black Function Touch-sensitive keypad interface; passes button signals to the main control board Quantity 1 membrane switch touchpad Compatible Brand Samsung Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Range Or Shut Off Breaker Before Starting — Small Parts, Keep Away From Children Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker before beginning to avoid electrical hazards. Wear work gloves. This part includes small components — keep them away from young children during installation. Access is typically through the front of the control panel: remove the screws or clips securing the panel trim, then carefully separate the old touchpad overlay from its mounting surface, since some models use an adhesive backing that may require gentle, even pressure to release cleanly without damaging the surrounding panel. Photograph the ribbon cable or connector routing before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the touchpad's ribbon cable or connector from the control board, and remove the old membrane switch fully. Position the new DG34-00027B so its buttons align correctly with the control panel cutout, press it into place evenly to seat any adhesive backing, and reconnect the ribbon cable or connector to the control board. Reinstall the panel trim and its screws or clips. Restore power and test every button on the touchpad to confirm each one now responds correctly. Tools needed: Phillips or flat-blade screwdriver (model-dependent), work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Some buttons work but others don't. Is this the right part? Yes, this is the classic symptom this touchpad addresses. Because the membrane switch is purely the physical button interface, individual sections of it can wear out or fail independently, leaving some buttons responsive while others stop working. If your clock, display, and some functions still work normally but specific buttons or settings don't respond, this touchpad — not the main control board — is the most likely cause. My whole display is blank and nothing on the panel responds. Do I need this part? Probably not. A completely blank or entirely unresponsive display points to the main control board rather than this touchpad, since the touchpad itself has no display and can't cause a total blackout on its own. Similarly, if your clock and timer work but no oven heating functions operate at all, that's also a control board symptom. This touchpad is the correct part specifically when some buttons or functions fail while the rest of the panel, including the display, continues working. How do I know which specific membrane switch touchpad my range needs? Samsung uses several different touchpads that look similar but serve different model groups — always check your full model number before ordering. This DG34-00027B fits NX58H5600SS, NX58J5600SG, NX58F5700WS, and NX58M5600SB specifically; other Samsung ranges use different part numbers such as DG34-00025A, DG34-00020A, or DG96-00850H. Contact our support team with your model number if you want to confirm before ordering. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Samsung OEM part, but is manufactured to match the button layout, overlay material, and mounting configuration of the original DG34-00027B touchpad used in compatible Samsung gas ranges. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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