Search results for "washer board"

WH12X10527 Washer Genuine OEM Timer Replaces Part Numbers: WH12X10527, AP5645215, PS4704240. Description: This washer timer is a Genuine OEM part for select GE washing machine models. This timer controls the various cycles of the washing machine, including wash, rinse, and spin cycles. By regulating the duration and sequence of each cycle, the timer ensures that the washing machine operates smoothly and efficiently.

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XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob The XPARTCO WE01X30638 is an aftermarket replacement control knob compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer combination units). The control knob mounts on the timer or cycle selector shaft on the laundry center's control panel — it's what you grip and turn to choose wash cycles, dry cycles, and timer settings on both the washer and dryer sections of the unit. Because a stacked laundry center's knobs get twice the daily use of a standalone appliance (one control panel serving both washer and dryer functions), cracked and stripped knobs are one of the most common repairs on these units. Constructed from durable black ABS plastic with a polished silver edge ring and an internal metal plate insert that grips the D-shaped control shaft — allowing precise detent positioning so you land exactly on your desired cycle setting. Approximately 2" in diameter with thick inner walls to resist the cracking that plagues aging original knobs. Snap-on installation — pulls straight off, pushes back on, no tools required. This is the current production version, directly superseding WE01X24776. It also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089. Installs in under 1 minute — no tools required. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WE01X30638 Laundry Center Control Knob replaces a cracked, stripped, or missing control knob on GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built stacked laundry centers. Black ABS plastic with polished silver edge, ~2" diameter, internal metal plate for a firm shaft grip. Snap-on — no tools required. Current part superseding WE01X24776; also replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, EAP16226089. Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG, GUD27ESPM1DG, GUD27GSPM0DG, GUD27GSPM1DG and related GUD27 series laundry centers. Common Problems This Part Fixes Control knob cracked or split from age and repeated use — the most common failure on GUD27-series laundry centers Knob spinning freely on the shaft — internal grip stripped, no longer changing settings when turned Knob difficult to turn or not responding — worn internal metal plate no longer engaging the shaft Knob missing entirely from the control panel Knob loose and wobbling on the shaft — imprecise cycle selection Hairline cracks visible around the knob's shaft opening — early-stage failure that will soon strip Knob damaged from impact or overtightened grip Replacing multiple aging knobs at once — original knobs from the same production era tend to crack around the same time Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This laundry center control knob directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WE01X30638, WE01X24776, AGE25575, AP6996856, EAP16226089, PD00068517, PS16226089. WE01X30638 is the current production part superseding WE01X24776. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering. Compatibility This control knob is compatible with select laundry centers (stacked washer/dryer units) from the following brands: GE laundry centers — GUD27ESPM0DG (electric dryer) and GUD27ESPM1DG series GE laundry centers — GUD27GSPM0DG (gas dryer) and GUD27GSPM1DG series GE laundry centers — related GUD27 series models (verify with parts diagram) Hotpoint laundry centers (select GE-built models) RCA laundry centers (select GE-built models) Kenmore / Sears laundry centers (select GE-built models) Tip: If one knob on your laundry center has cracked, inspect the others — knobs from the same production era typically develop cracks around the same time. Since the replacement takes seconds and the knobs are identical, many customers order two or more at once and replace them all in a single session, avoiding a repeat order a few months later. This knob is approximately 2" in diameter — confirm your original knob's size matches before ordering. Key Features Control knob for laundry center timer and cycle selection — installs on the control panel shaft Durable black ABS plastic construction with thick inner walls — resists the cracking common on aging original knobs Polished silver edge ring for a clean, modern look that matches GE laundry center styling Internal metal plate insert grips the D-shaped control shaft firmly — precise detent positioning for accurate cycle selection Approximately 2" diameter with smooth mirror-polished surface for a comfortable grip Snap-on installation — pulls straight off the shaft, pushes back on; no tools or hardware required Current production part — directly supersedes WE01X24776 Replaces 4961358, AP6996856, PS16226089, and EAP16226089 Compatible with GE GUD27ESPM0DG/1DG and GUD27GSPM0DG/1DG laundry centers, plus Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built models Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Quick replacement — installs in under 1 minute Product Specifications Part Number XPWE01X30638 Supersedes WE01X24776 Part Type Laundry Center Control Knob (Timer / Cycle Selector) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Laundry Centers / Stacked Washer-Dryer Units (GE platform) Diameter Approximately 2" Color Black with polished silver edge Material ABS plastic with internal metal plate insert Shaft Type D-shaped shaft receiver Installation Snap-on — no tools required Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Kenmore (GE-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Laundry Center Before Starting — Quick Toolless Replacement Disconnect power before beginning as a general safety precaution. Locate the old control knob on the laundry center's control panel. Grip the knob firmly and pull it straight off the control shaft — it should come off with a moderate pull (no tools required). If the knob is cracked and spinning without releasing, wrap a soft cloth around it for extra grip, or gently pry it off with a plastic tool (avoid metal tools that could scratch the control panel). Once the old knob is off, inspect the metal control shaft — note the D-shape (flat side) of the shaft. If the shaft itself is damaged, worn round, or the timer behind it feels loose, the underlying timer or switch may also need attention. Align the new WE01X30638 knob's internal D-shaped receiver with the flat side of the shaft and push it firmly straight on until it seats fully. Rotate the knob through its full range to confirm it clicks into each detent position cleanly and the indicator lines up with the panel markings. Restore power and run a quick test cycle. If replacing multiple knobs, repeat for each position — they're all identical on compatible GUD27-series units. Tools needed: None (soft cloth optional). Frequently Asked Questions Why do the knobs on my GE laundry center keep cracking? The original knobs on GUD27-series laundry centers are subject to constant rotational stress concentrated at the D-shaped shaft opening — and on a stacked laundry center, one control panel serves both the washer and dryer, so the knobs see roughly double the daily turning of a standalone appliance's controls. Over years of use, hairline cracks form at the shaft opening and gradually spread until the knob's grip strips and it spins freely. The replacement knob's thick inner walls and internal metal plate insert are designed to resist this failure pattern. If one of your knobs has cracked, check the others — knobs from the same production era typically crack around the same time, and replacing them together saves a repeat order. What's the difference between WE01X30638 and WE01X24776? These are the same control knob across production revisions. WE01X24776 was the earlier GE part number, and WE01X30638 is the current production version that GE issued as its direct replacement. Both are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your laundry center's parts diagram shows WE01X24776, the WE01X30638 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers both numbers. There may be a very slight color variation between the new knob and your aged originals, but the fit and function are identical. How do I remove the old knob if it's cracked and just spins? When the internal grip has stripped, the knob spins on the shaft instead of pulling off cleanly. Wrap a soft cloth around the knob for extra grip and pull firmly straight out while wiggling slightly. If that doesn't work, gently work a plastic pry tool (a plastic putty knife or old credit card) behind the knob's base and lever it outward evenly around its circumference. Avoid metal tools, which can scratch the control panel. If the knob is badly cracked, you can also carefully break away the remaining plastic to free it from the shaft. Once removed, the new knob pushes straight on. Does this knob work for both the washer and dryer controls on my laundry center? Yes — on compatible GUD27-series laundry centers, the control knobs across the panel are the same part, whether they operate washer cycle selection, dryer timer, or other rotary controls that use the same D-shaped shaft. If you're replacing more than one knob, a single part number covers all matching positions. Just confirm each position's knob is the same ~2" diameter style before ordering multiples — if your unit has a visibly different-sized knob at any position, verify against the parts diagram first. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured from durable ABS plastic with an internal metal plate insert to match the dimensions (~2" diameter), D-shaped shaft receiver, snap-on installation, and appearance of the original WE01X30638/WE01X24776 control knob used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore GE-built laundry centers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WH10X29537 Front Load Washer Door Fits specific GE Washer models. Description: This Washer Door is a Genuine OEM replacement part for GE washing machines. It is the main access point to the washer drum, allowing you to load and unload your laundry with a secure and tight seal during operation. 

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XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve The XPARTCO W10599356 is an aftermarket replacement water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. Quick Answer The XPARTCO W10599356 Washer Water Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for hot and cold supply connections Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 OEM Part Number W10599356 (formerly W10509710) Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration of the original W10599356 / W10509710 valve used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO DC97-19289F Washer Drain Pump Assembly The XPARTCO DC97-19289F is an aftermarket replacement washer drain pump assembly compatible with a wide range of Samsung top-load washers in the WA40, WA41, WA42, WA44, WA45, WA48, WA50, WA52, and WA54 series, as well as select Kenmore models built on the Samsung platform. The drain pump removes water from the washer tub during the drain portion of each wash cycle. When the pump fails, the washer will display error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5, leave standing water in the tub, stop mid-cycle, or produce unusual noise during draining. This complete drain pump assembly is rated 120V, 60Hz, 80W, 1.1A with a 30-minute on / 30-minute off duty cycle. It directly replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, and PX3516-01. Note: the wire plug on the new pump may differ slightly from the original — if the connector does not match your washer's harness, transfer the wiring harness from the old pump to the new one. Installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools. Quick Answer The XPARTCO DC97-19289F Washer Drain Pump Assembly fixes Samsung top-load washers displaying error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5, not draining, leaving standing water, or making loud noise during the drain cycle. 120V/60Hz/80W/1.1A, 30 min on/30 min off duty cycle. Compatible with Samsung WA40 through WA54 series and Kenmore (Samsung-built). Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, PX3516-01. Note: if wire plug differs, transfer harness from old pump. Common Problems This Part Fixes Error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, or E5 — washer cannot drain within the allotted time Washer not draining — standing water remaining in the tub after a cycle Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a drain fault Loud humming, grinding, or rattling noise during the drain cycle Water draining very slowly — worn pump motor below rated performance Water leaking from the drain pump area at the bottom of the washer Pump running continuously but water not being expelled from the tub Replaces Part Numbers This drain pump directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: DC97-19289F, DC97-17349B, DC97-19289B,DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, DC97-19289A,ASM772133, AP6806651, EAP12592631, PD00049911, PX3516-01, PS12592631. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This drain pump is compatible with select top-load washers from the following brands and series: Samsung top-load washers — WA40 series (WA400PJHDWR and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA41 series (WA41A3000AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA42 series Samsung top-load washers — WA44 series (WA44A3205AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA45 series (WA45H7000AW, WA45M7050AW, WA45N3050AW, WA45T3200AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA48 series (WA48H7400AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA50 series (WA50F9A7DSP, WA50M7450AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA52 series (WA52M7750AW, WA52M8650AW and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA54 series (WA54M8750AV and related models) Samsung top-load washers — WA456DRHDSU series Kenmore / Sears top-load washers (select Samsung-built models) Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure. Key Features Removes water from the tub during the drain and spin cycles for proper washer operation Resolves Samsung error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, and E5 caused by drain pump failure Rated 120V, 60Hz, 80W, 1.1A — correct electrical specifications for compatible Samsung top-load models 30-minute on / 30-minute off duty cycle — matches the operational requirements of compatible models Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B, DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, DC97-17366J, and PX3516-01 Wire plug may differ from original — transfer harness from old pump if connector does not match Compatible with Samsung WA40 through WA54 series and Kenmore Samsung-built top-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards DIY repair — installs in 20–30 minutes with basic hand tools Product Specifications Part Number DC97-19289F Also Replaces DC97-19289A, DC97-19289B (prior versions) Part Type Washer Drain Pump Assembly Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application Samsung Top-Load Washers Voltage 120V AC Frequency 60 Hz Wattage 80W Amperage 1.1A Duty Cycle 30 minutes on / 30 minutes off Error Codes Resolved 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, E5 Connector Note Wire plug may differ — transfer harness from old pump if needed Compatible Brands Samsung, Kenmore (Samsung-built) Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer and Shut Off Water Before Starting Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before beginning. Tilt the washer back or lay it on its side to access the drain pump at the bottom of the machine. Place towels and a shallow pan to catch residual water when the pump is disconnected. Note the wiring connector orientation before disconnecting — take a photo if needed. If the new pump's connector does not match the washer's harness, carefully transfer the wiring harness from the old pump to the new pump. Disconnect the drain hoses from the pump using pliers to loosen the clamps. Unscrew the pump mounting screws and remove the old pump. Install the new DC97-19289F pump in the same position, reconnect drain hoses and secure with clamps, and reconnect the wiring harness. Restore water supply and power, then run a drain cycle to verify proper drainage and check for leaks. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, shallow pan, towels. Frequently Asked Questions What error codes indicate a drain pump failure on Samsung washers? Error codes 5C, SE, nd, 5E, FO2, and E5 on Samsung top-load washers all indicate a drain fault — the washer was unable to drain within the expected time. These codes can also be caused by a clogged drain filter, blocked hose, or kinked drain line, so check those first. If the filter and hose are clear and the error persists after clearing them, the drain pump is the most likely cause. What is the difference between DC97-19289F, DC97-19289A, and DC97-19289B? These are successive revisions of the same Samsung drain pump assembly. DC97-19289A was the original version, DC97-19289B was an update, and DC97-19289F is the current version. Samsung issues revised part numbers when minor production changes are made — all three perform the same function and the DC97-19289F is the correct current replacement for any of the earlier versions. The DC97-17349B, DC97-17366A, and DC97-17366J are additional older cross-references for this pump used on earlier Samsung top-load models. Why might the wire plug on the new pump differ from the original? Samsung revised the wiring connector on this drain pump across different production runs. If the DC97-19289F pump you receive has a different connector than your washer's harness, do not force the connection. Instead, carefully remove the wiring harness from the old pump and transfer it to the new pump — both versions use the same internal terminals and the harness swap is straightforward. This is a known and documented step for this part and does not affect performance or safety. Should I check the drain filter before replacing the pump? Yes — always check and clean the drain filter and inspect the drain hose for kinks or blockages before replacing the pump. A clogged filter or blocked hose can cause the same error codes as a failed pump and clearing the blockage may resolve the problem without needing a new part. On Samsung top-load washers the drain filter is typically located at the bottom front of the machine. If the filter and hose are clear and the error persists, the pump needs replacement. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Samsung OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and performance of the original DC97-19289F drain pump assembly. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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WPW10435242 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve Description: The Water inlet valve assembly is an OEM part for specific Whirlpool washing machine models. This valve assembly controls the flow of water entering the washing machine. It regulates water levels during different wash cycles like filling, rinsing, and draining. Replaces Part Numbers: WPW10435242, W10435242, W10435236, AP6021375, PS11754698.   California Residents only WARNING: California’s Proposition 65

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W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve The W10599356 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers, including full-size and compact models. This valve sits at the back of the washer where the hot and cold water supply hoses connect, and it's the gatekeeper for every drop of water that enters the drum. When the control calls for water, it energizes the valve's solenoid coils to open the hot side, the cold side, or both together, and closes them again once the correct fill level is reached. A valve that won't open leaves you with no fill at all; a valve that won't fully close can let water trickle or flow into the drum even when the cycle isn't calling for it. Over time, mineral deposits and sediment from the water supply can build up inside the valve body and prevent it from sealing fully, the internal solenoid coil can burn out electrically, and the rubber diaphragm or seal inside can simply wear out with age. A failing valve on this platform commonly triggers an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code, since the control expects water to reach the correct level within a set time and flags it when that doesn't happen. It directly replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710. As a genuine OEM part, the W10599356 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The W10599356 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers that won't fill, fill slowly, overfill, leak water into the drum when the cycle isn't running, or throw an F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code. Solenoid-actuated water inlet valve for the hot and cold supply connections. Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, W10509710. Consider replacing the fill hoses at the same time — they wear on a similar schedule and share the same access point. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with water at the start of the cycle Washer fills much more slowly than normal Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum when the washer is off or between cycles F8 E1 or similar fill-related error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash No hot water, no cold water, or neither reaching the drum Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the supply connections Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W10599356, W10509710, AP5692067, 3023192, 33090084, C-022/16-B21, EAP8689091, AWP41165, PD00022876, PS8689091 W10509710 was the immediately preceding number that Whirlpool revised to W10599356. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW series (select Whirlpool-built models) KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and Amana front-load washers (select models) Magic Chef, Admiral, and Norge front-load washers (select models) Roper and Kenmore front-load washers (select Whirlpool-built models) Verified model numbers include: WFW70HEBW0, WFW70HEBW1, WFW70HEBW2, WFW72HEDW0, WFW7590FW0, WFW75HEFW0, WFW80HEBC0, WFW80HEBC1, WFW80HEBC2, WFW80HEBW0, WFW80HEBW1, WFW80HEBW2, WFW81HEDW0, MHW3000BG0, MHW3000BG1, MHW3000BG2, MHW3000BW0, MHW3000BW1, MHW3000BW2, MHW3100DW0, MHW4000BW1, MHW4000BW2, MHW4100DW0, MHW5100DC0, MHW5100DW0, NFW5700BW0, NFW5700BW1, NFW5800DW0, 7MWFW72HEDW0, 7MWFW80HEBW0, and 7MWFW81HEDW0. Note: This valve fits Whirlpool's front-load washer platform. It is not intended for top-load washers, which use a different valve design and mounting configuration. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and similar fill-related error codes Direct drop-in replacement for the superseded W10509710 valve Replaces AP5692067, 3023192, PS8689091, and W10509710 Compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Straightforward DIY repair — typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes Product Specifications Part Number W10599356 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Actuation Solenoid-operated Connections Hot and cold water supply inlets Supersedes W10509710 Repair Difficulty Easy to Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old valve, remove the mounting screw or bracket (often a T-20 Torx screw), and pull the valve free from its mounting position. Install the new W10599356 in the same orientation, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection you touched for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. While everything is accessible, consider replacing the fill hoses as well, since they wear on a similar schedule. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions My washer shows an F8 E1 error. Does that mean the valve is definitely bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. F8 E1 and similar fill-related codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm both hot and cold supply valves at the wall are fully open, check the inlet screens inside the valve ports for sediment or debris, and make sure the fill hoses aren't kinked. If those check out and the washer still won't fill properly, the inlet valve itself is the likely cause. Water keeps trickling into the drum even when the washer is off. Is that the valve? Yes, this is one of the classic symptoms of a valve that isn't sealing fully closed. Mineral deposits, sediment, or a worn internal diaphragm can prevent the valve from shutting off completely, letting a slow trickle of water continue into the drum between cycles. This can eventually lead to an overfill or water pooling at the front of the washer, so it's worth addressing promptly rather than waiting. Only hot or only cold water isn't coming in. Do I need to replace the whole valve? Usually yes. Most washer inlet valves use two separate solenoid coils in one housing — one for hot, one for cold — but they're not typically sold as separately replaceable coils. If just one side has stopped working while the other functions normally, that still points to a failure inside this valve assembly, and replacing the complete unit is the standard repair. Should I replace the fill hoses while I'm in there? It's a good idea. The fill hoses connect right at the same point you'll already have exposed, wear on a similar timeline as the valve, and are a common source of slow leaks that get blamed on the valve. Since you're already accessing this area, replacing hoses that show any cracking, bulging, or stiffness saves you from repeating the disassembly later. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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XPARTCO WH01X20826 Washing Machine Shock Absorber The XPARTCO WH01X20826 is an aftermarket replacement shock absorber (damper) for GE front-load washers. The wash tub inside a front-load washer hangs suspended inside the cabinet, and a set of these shock absorbers is what controls that movement — dampening the tub's vibration and motion during spin so it doesn't bang against the cabinet or shake the whole machine. These washers typically use four shock absorbers working together around the tub, and this listing is for a single individual shock absorber. Over time the internal damping material in these shocks wears out, or the shock can physically separate from its mounting point — something that can also happen if the washer is moved or shifted without the tub properly secured first. Because all four shocks on a given washer are typically the same age and under the same stress, if one has failed the others are often not far behind — many technicians recommend ordering four of this same part and replacing the full set together as a preventative measure. A worn or detached shock absorber produces a very recognizable symptom: excessive vibration, shaking, or banging noise during the spin cycle, sometimes strong enough that the washer visibly moves or "walks" across the floor. It directly replaces WH01X20826, AGE25988, AP5982139, AGE25988, EAP11701130, PD00037528, PS11701130. Quick Answer The XPARTCO WH01X20826 Washing Machine Shock Absorber fixes GE front-load washers (and select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café, and Kenmore models built on the GE platform) that vibrate, shake, or bang excessively during spin, or seem to "walk" across the floor. Sold as a single individual shock absorber. Replaces WH01X20826, AGE25988, AP5982139, AGE25988, EAP11701130, PD00037528, PS11701130. These washers use four shock absorbers total — if one has failed, order four of this part to replace the full set, since they wear on the same schedule. Common Problems This Part Fixes Excessive vibration or shaking during the spin cycle Loud banging or knocking noise from inside the cabinet during spin Washer that seems to "walk" or move across the floor during operation Tub striking the cabinet frame or nearby panels Shock absorber that has visibly separated or detached from its mounting point Noise or vibration that started or worsened after the washer was moved or relocated Visible wear, cracking, or looseness in the shock absorber material Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washing machine shock absorber directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: WH01X20826, AGE25988, AP5982139, AGE25988, EAP11701130, PD00037528, PS11701130 If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This shock absorber is compatible with select GE front-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers built on the GE platform. Note: GE uses several different shock absorber part numbers across its washer lineup, including separate parts such as WH01X10727 and WH03X29516 for other platforms. This WH01X20826 shock is specific to the front-load models listed above and is not interchangeable with those other GE shocks. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Aftermarket replacement shock absorber — dampens tub vibration and movement during spin Sold individually — order four to replace the full set on a typical front-load washer Resolves "excessive vibration," "banging or knocking noise," and "washer walking across the floor" symptoms caused by worn or detached shocks Durable plastic and rubber construction for long-term damping performance Direct drop-in replacement — no modification required Replaces WH01X20826, AGE25988, AP5982139, AGE25988, EAP11701130, PD00037528, PS11701130. Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café, and select Kenmore front-load washers Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards Product Specifications Part Number XPWH01X20826 OEM Part Number WH01X20826 Part Type Washing Machine Shock Absorber (Damper) Condition Aftermarket Replacement Application GE Front-Load Washers Material Plastic and rubber Function Dampens tub vibration and movement during spin Typical Quantity Per Washer 4 (this listing is for 1 individual shock) Quantity 1 shock absorber Compatible Brands GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café, Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Unplug Washer Before Starting — Consider Replacing All Four Shocks Together Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access to the shock absorbers typically requires removing the top and/or front panel of the washer to reach the tub suspension points — check your model's service diagram, since access varies. Photograph how each old shock absorber connects to the frame and the tub before removing anything, since these components are symmetrical around the tub and easy to reverse or mismatch. Disconnect the old shock absorber from its mounting point at both the frame and tub ends, and remove the mounting pin. Install the new shock absorber in the same position with its mounting pin, matching the original orientation. If you're only replacing one shock, be aware the remaining three original shocks are the same age and under the same stress — many technicians recommend ordering three more of this same part and replacing all four together to avoid reopening the washer again soon after. Once installed, gently rock the tub by hand to confirm even resistance at each corner before reassembling the panels. Restore power and run a full spin cycle to confirm the vibration, shaking, or banging noise has resolved. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Do I need to order more than one of these? This listing is for a single shock absorber, but GE front-load washers use four of them working together around the tub. If one has failed, it's strongly worth ordering four total and replacing the full set, since all four are typically the same age and have been under the same stress — replacing just one risks having to reopen the washer again soon after for the next one. My washer started shaking right after I moved it to a new spot. Is that related? Yes, this is a documented cause of shock absorber problems on this platform. If the tub wasn't properly secured or the washer was tilted significantly during a move, one or more shock absorbers can separate from their mounting point. Check that all four shocks are still properly connected at both ends before assuming a shock itself has failed — sometimes reseating a separated shock is all that's needed, though if it shows wear it's worth replacing regardless. How much vibration is normal, and how do I know it's actually the shocks? Some vibration during high-speed spin is normal, especially with an unbalanced load. But vibration strong enough to move the washer across the floor, or accompanied by a banging or knocking noise from inside the cabinet, points to a suspension problem rather than a simple unbalanced load. Try redistributing the laundry evenly in the drum and running the spin cycle again — if the shaking persists with a balanced load, inspect the shock absorbers for wear, cracking, or separation. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the dimensions, mounting configuration, and damping performance of the original WH01X20826 shock absorber used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café, and Kenmore front-load washers. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W10919003 Washer Genuine OEM Drain Pump Replaces Part Numbers: W10919003, 4461359, W10775446, AP6038235, PS11770076. Description: This Water Pump is a Genuine OEM replacement part for specific Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool washing machine models. It plays a crucial role in circulating water throughout the wash cycles and draining the used water from the tub.

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W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve The W11168743 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM hot water inlet valve for Whirlpool top-load washers. This is a single-solenoid valve dedicated specifically to hot water, with a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. When the wash cycle calls for hot water, the valve's solenoid opens to admit it from your home's hot water supply line; once the correct fill level is reached, it closes again. Rated 120V, 60Hz. Common causes of failure include wear and tear over time, clogging from mineral deposits or sediment in the water supply, and electrical faults that prevent the valve from opening or closing properly. A failing hot water valve typically shows up as the washer not filling properly or not filling at all, slow or irregular water flow even when the inlet screens are clear of obstruction, no hot water reaching the tub, or water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. It directly replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068. Quick Answer The W11168743 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool top-load washers (and select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore washers) that won't fill, fill slowly, have no hot water reaching the tub, or leak water inside the drum when not running. 1-solenoid, 1-inlet, 1-outlet hot water valve. 120V, 60Hz. Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, 33390068. This is the hot valve — the matching cold valve for the same platform is a separate part, W11168740. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer not filling properly, or not filling at all Water flow slow or irregular even when inlet screens are clear No hot water reaching the tub during the wash cycle Water dripping or leaking inside the tub when the washer isn't running Washer not washing properly due to insufficient hot water Washer that won't start because it's stuck waiting for water Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer hot water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11168743, 1873019, 33390068, 4585634, W10240948, W10921515, WPW10240948, AP6017592, AP6327638, EAP11750891, EAP12348074, PS11750891, AWP43142, OEM18982923, PD00040928, PS12348074. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This hot water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool top-load washers, and also fits select Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, and Ikea washers built on the Whirlpool platform. Note — hot valve, not cold: This is the hot water valve. The matching cold water valve for the same Whirlpool top-load platform is a separate part, W11168740 (blue body, 2-solenoid). The two are not interchangeable, so replace the correct one for the symptom you're seeing — or both if you're unsure which is causing the issue. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration Dedicated hot water valve — standard hose fitting inlet, single water outlet Resolves "won't fill," "fills slowly," "no hot water," and "leaking inside the tub" symptoms caused by valve failure Rated 120V, 60Hz Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections Replaces AP6327638, WPW10240948, W10240948, 4585634, PS12348074, W10921515, and 33390068 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, and Kenmore top-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number W11168743 Part Type Washer Hot Water Inlet Valve Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Top-Load Washers Voltage 120V Frequency 60 Hz Solenoids 1 Inlets 1 (standard hose fitting) Outlets 1 Companion Part W11168740 (cold water valve, 2-solenoid, sold separately) Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Hardwick, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric, Kenmore, Ikea Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off the hot water supply valve before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically from the rear of the washer: remove the screws securing the top or rear panel to reach the valve. Have a towel handy for residual water when you disconnect the supply hose. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the hot water supply hose, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place, then pull it free. Install the new W11168743 in the same position, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the hot water supply hose, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. While you're in there, it's also worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a loose or damaged hose at that connection can produce similar fill or leak symptoms. Restore the water supply and check for leaks before restoring power. Run a test cycle to confirm the washer fills normally with hot water. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions How do I know if it's the hot valve or the cold valve that's failed? Pay attention to which water temperature is affected. If the washer isn't getting hot water but cold-water fills work fine, this hot valve (W11168743) is the likely cause. If the opposite is true, the cold valve (W11168740) is more likely the issue. If both hot and cold fills are affected, or you're not sure, it's worth checking both valves before ordering. I have water dripping inside the tub when the washer isn't running. Is this the valve? Yes, likely one of the two inlet valves. A worn internal seal can let water seep through even when the valve should be fully closed, causing exactly this symptom. Since there are two valves (hot and cold) on this platform, you may need to inspect both to determine which one is leaking, or replace both if you're unable to isolate it. The valve and hoses look fine but water flow is still irregular. What else should I check? If the inlet screens are clear of obstruction and water flow is still weak or inconsistent, it's worth checking the hoses that run from the valve into the detergent dispenser drawer, since a kink, clog, or loose connection there can produce similar symptoms to a failing valve. Household water pressure and any inline filter screens are also worth ruling out. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original solenoid design, flow rate, and hose connection configuration of the hot water inlet valve originally installed in your washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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W11307244 Genuine OEM Washer Lid Lock Assembly for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana Fix your washing machine with the W11307244 Genuine OEM Lid Lock Assembly, designed for top-loading washers from trusted brands like Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, and more. Ensure safety and seamless operation with this high-quality, manufacturer-approved replacement part. Fix issues like a washer that won’t start, stops mid-cycle, or displays lid lock errors with this reliable solution. Product Features 🔒 Genuine OEM Quality: Engineered by Whirlpool for perfect compatibility and long-lasting performance. 🔄 Universal Fit: Replaces part numbers W10682535, W10838613, W10838613VP, W11253733. Compatible with models like Whirlpool WTW5000DW1, Maytag MVWC565FW1, Amana NTW4516FW0, Kenmore 110.2024251, and more (verify with your model number). 🛠️ Easy Installation: Comes with a 3-wire harness for quick setup. Basic tools (screwdriver, putty knife, wrench) needed for DIY repair. ✅ Enhanced Safety: Securely locks the washer lid during cycles to prevent accidents and ensure smooth operation. Why Choose This Lid Lock Assembly? The W11307244 is the ideal solution for common washer issues like: 🚫 Washer failing to start or fill. 🔴 Lid not locking properly, triggering error codes. ⏸️ Machine pausing mid-cycle or during spin. ⚙️ Inconsistent agitation or cycle completion. Unlike generic alternatives, this OEM part guarantees precise fit and durability, saving you time and money on repairs. Compatibility Fits a wide range of top-load washing machines, including: Whirlpool: WTW5000DW1, MVWX655DW1 Maytag: MVWC565FW1, ATW4516HW0 Amana: NTW4516FW0 Kenmore: 110.2024251 Crosley, Roper, Inglis: Various models (check your manual for compatibility). Pro Tip: Confirm your washer’s model number to ensure a perfect fit. Contact us for help verifying compatibility! Installation Guide 🔌 Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply for safety. 🔧 Use a putty knife to release clips and lift the top panel. 🔌 Disconnect the old harness and remove the faulty lock. 🔩 Install the W11307244 assembly, ensuring proper alignment of the bezel. ✅ Reconnect the harness, reassemble, and test the lock before full use. Note: The part may arrive locked; manually unlock it during installation. Watch our installation video for step-by-step guidance. Why Shop With Us? 🚚 Fast, Free Shipping: Same-day dispatch on orders before 2 PM EST. 😊 100% Satisfaction Guarantee: 30-day hassle-free returns. 🧑🔧 Expert Support: Our team is here to assist with compatibility and installation questions. 💸 Competitive Pricing: Get OEM quality at an affordable price. Customer Reviews ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ "Fixed my Whirlpool washer in 20 minutes! Easy to install and works perfectly." – Sarah T.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ "OEM part made all the difference. My Maytag is back to normal!" – John R.⭐⭐⭐⭐ "Arrived quickly, but needed to unlock it before install. Great product!" – Lisa M. Add to Cart Now! Don’t let a faulty lid lock disrupt your laundry routine. Order the W11307244 Genuine OEM Lid Lock Assembly today and restore your washer’s performance. Limited stock—grab yours now!

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W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) The W11688995 is a genuine Whirlpool OEM cold water inlet valve for Whirlpool-built front-load washers. Whirlpool's newer front-load platforms use two separate single-function valves instead of one combined hot/cold valve body — this cold-side valve handles only the cold water supply, while a matching hot-side valve (sold separately as W11688994) handles the hot side. When the control calls for a cold fill, it energizes this valve's solenoid coils to open the water path; when the correct level is reached, the valve closes again. If this valve fails to open, the washer won't take on cold water; if it fails to seal fully closed, water can trickle into the drum even when the washer isn't running. Because this is a dedicated single-function valve, a failure here shows up in a very specific way: cold-only fills stop working or slow down dramatically, while hot-only fills (governed by the separate W11688994 valve) continue working normally. Whirlpool's own service guidance links this valve to F8 E1 and LO FL fill-related error codes. Common failure modes include mineral or sediment buildup that prevents the valve from sealing, a burned-out solenoid coil, or a worn internal diaphragm. It directly replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730. As a genuine OEM part, the W11688995 is manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. Quick Answer The W11688995 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve (Cold) fixes Whirlpool-built front-load washers where cold water won't fill, fills slowly, overfills, leaks into the drum when off, or throws an F8 E1 or LO FL error code. 120V, 50/60Hz, two-coil cold-only valve, 1/2" NPT threaded connections. Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, EAP17216730. This is the cold-side valve only — the companion hot-side valve is sold separately as W11688994. Common Problems This Part Fixes Washer won't fill with cold water while hot water fills normally Cold water fills much more slowly than it used to Washer overfills or takes on more water than the cycle calls for Water trickling or leaking into the drum on the cold side when the washer is off F8 E1 or LO FL error code displayed on the control panel Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash Cold-wash or cold-rinse cycles specifically affected while warm/hot cycles run fine Water pooling underneath or behind the washer near the cold supply connection Cross Reference Information Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item. Replaces Part Numbers This washer cold water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers: W11688995, W11316256, W11036930, W11486361, 4983050, PD00086086, FIX17216730, EAP17216730, OEM28874414, AP7218603, AWP46809, PS17216730. W11486361 and W11316256 were earlier Whirlpool numbers for this same valve, with W11036930 preceding those. If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility. Compatibility This cold water inlet valve is compatible with select Whirlpool-built front-load washers across the Whirlpool family of brands, including: Whirlpool front-load washers — WFW series Maytag front-load washers — MHW and MFW series (select Whirlpool-built models) Amana front-load washers (select models) Inglis front-load washers — IFW series (select models) Select Kenmore front-load washers built on the Whirlpool platform Verified model numbers include: 8TWFC6810LW0 (laundry center), IFW5900HW0, IFW5900HW1, IFW5900HW2, IFW5900HW3, IFW5900HW4, MFW7020RF0, MFW7020RU0, MFW7020RW0, MHW5630HC0, MHW5630HC1, MHW5630HC2, MHW5630HC3, MHW5630HW0, MHW5630HW1, MHW5630HW2, MHW5630MBK0, MHW6630HC0 through MHW6630HC3, MHW6630HW0 through MHW6630HW3, MHW6630MBK0, MHW8630HC0 through MHW8630HC3, MHW8630HW0 through MHW8630HW3, WFW560CHW0, WFW560CHW1, WFW560CHW2, WFW5620HW0 through WFW5620HW3, WFW6620HC0 through WFW6620HC2, WFW6620HW0, WFW6620HW1, WFW8620HC0 through WFW8620HC4, WFW8620HW0 through WFW8620HW4, WFW862CHC0, and WFW862CHC1. Note — cold side only: This is the cold water valve. The matching hot water valve for these same washers is sold separately under part number W11688994. The two are not interchangeable — each is a dedicated single-function valve, and installing this cold valve in place of the hot valve (or vice versa) will not correctly control water temperature. If both valves need replacement, order both part numbers. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure. Key Features Genuine Whirlpool OEM part — factory-specified solenoid, seal, and flow-rate design Dedicated cold-only water inlet valve — two internal coils control flow to the cold supply Resolves "won't fill with cold water," "fills slowly," "overfills," and "leaking into the drum" symptoms caused by valve failure Commonly resolves F8 E1 and LO FL error codes 1/2" NPT threaded connections for standard supply line hookups Direct drop-in replacement for W11036930, W11316256, and W11486361 Replaces W11036930, W11316256, W11486361, AP7218603, PS17216730, and EAP17216730 Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, and select Kenmore front-load washers Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance Product Specifications Part Number W11688995 Part Type Washer Water Inlet Valve — Cold Condition Genuine OEM Brand Whirlpool Application Front-Load Washers (Whirlpool-Built) Voltage 120V Frequency 50/60 Hz Coils 2 (dedicated cold water function) Connection 1/2 in. NPT threaded Companion Part W11688994 (hot water valve, sold separately) Supersedes W11036930, W11316256, W11486361 Quantity 1 valve Compatible Brands Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Inglis, select Kenmore Installation Notes ⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Have A Towel Ready Unplug the washer or shut off its circuit breaker, and shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Disconnect the cold water supply line from the back of the valve first — have a towel or shallow pan ready, since residual water will spill out. Remove the rear screws securing the top panel, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly from inside the cabinet. Photograph the wiring connections before disconnecting anything, since the hot and cold valves sit side by side and it's easy to cross a wire. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old cold valve, remove its mounting screw or bracket, and pull the valve free — leave the hot valve (W11688994) undisturbed if it isn't also being replaced. Install the new W11688995 in the same position, secure the mounting screw, and reconnect the electrical connector fully. Reattach the cold water supply line, tightening securely by hand plus a partial turn with pliers — avoid overtightening plastic threaded fittings. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check the connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a short cycle set to a cold wash and confirm the tub fills at the normal rate with no leaking underneath or behind the washer. Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or socket, T-20 Torx bit, pliers, towel or shallow pan, work gloves. Frequently Asked Questions Cold water won't fill but hot water works fine. Is this the right part? Yes — that's exactly the symptom pattern this valve addresses. Because your washer uses two separate single-function valves rather than one combined valve, a fault on the cold side only affects cold fills while the hot valve (W11688994) keeps working independently. If cold-specific cycles are the ones failing, this cold valve is the correct part to replace. Do I need to replace both the hot and cold valves at the same time? Not necessarily. Since these are independent single-function valves, you only need to replace the one that has actually failed. If only cold fills are affected, replacing this W11688995 valve alone is sufficient. If both hot and cold fills are having problems, or if the valves are original and quite old, some people choose to replace both at once since they're already accessing the same area — but it's not required. My washer shows an F8 E1 or LO FL error. Does that mean this valve is bad? It's a strong indicator, but check the basics first. These codes generally mean the control didn't see water reach the expected level within its allotted fill time. Before replacing the valve, confirm the cold supply valve at the wall is fully open, check the inlet screen inside the valve port for sediment or debris, and make sure the cold fill hose isn't kinked. If those check out and cold water still won't fill properly, this valve is the likely cause. Can I use this valve on the hot water side instead? No. This is a dedicated cold-water valve, and the hot-water side uses a separate part number, W11688994. The two are built and calibrated for their specific supply line and are not interchangeable — installing the cold valve on the hot side (or vice versa) will not properly control water temperature during the cycle. Is this an OEM or aftermarket part? This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same two-coil solenoid design, seal, and flow-rate calibration as the cold water inlet valve originally installed in your front-load washer. Shop With Confidence A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase. ✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout

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