XPARTCO W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor
The XPARTCO W10613606 is an aftermarket replacement compressor start relay and capacitor assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Admiral, Crosley, Dacor, Hardwick, Inglis, Litton, and Magic Chef refrigerators. The start relay is a small but critical electrical component that plugs directly onto the compressor terminals and provides the initial power surge needed to start the compressor motor. Once the compressor reaches operating speed, the relay drops out — leaving the compressor to run on its own. The capacitor (rated 15µF ±5%, 250VAC) works alongside the relay to store and release the burst of electrical energy needed on startup.
When the start relay fails, the compressor cannot start — causing the refrigerator to stop cooling entirely. A failed relay typically produces a clicking sound every few minutes as the compressor tries and fails to start, followed by a short rest, then another attempt. This kit includes both the start relay and the CBB61 capacitor. It directly replaces W10416065, 8208290, 8208368, C8931605, 67003186, 67005560, 67005561, 67005562, 67003764, 8171210, and several additional cross-reference numbers. Installs in under 15 minutes — no tools required in most cases.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor fixes refrigerators that are not cooling, are too warm, or are making a repeated clicking sound every few minutes as the compressor tries to start. Plugs directly onto the compressor terminals. Kit includes start relay and 15µF 250VAC CBB61 capacitor. Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and more. Replaces W10416065, 8208290, C8931605, 67005560, and more. No tools required — installs in under 15 minutes.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Refrigerator not cooling — compressor not running
Freezer section too warm or not freezing
Both refrigerator and freezer compartments gradually warming up
Repeated clicking sound every 2–5 minutes from behind or underneath the refrigerator
Compressor hums briefly then shuts off without reaching operating temperature
Refrigerator runs but cannot maintain set temperature
Shaking the start relay reveals a rattling sound inside — confirms internal failure
Replaces Part Numbers
This start relay and capacitor kit directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W10613606, 67005560, 3023300, 67003186, 67003764, 67005561, 67005562, W10416065, 8171210, 8208290, 8208368, W10244032, 302TFBYY, SSP14R302TFR, AWP41206, C8931605, PD00004905, EAP8746522, AP5787784, PS8746522.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This start relay and capacitor is compatible with select refrigerators from the following brands:
Whirlpool refrigerators (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models)
Maytag refrigerators
KitchenAid refrigerators
Amana refrigerators
Jenn-Air refrigerators
Admiral refrigerators
Crosley refrigerators
Dacor refrigerators
Hardwick refrigerators
Inglis refrigerators
Litton refrigerators
Magic Chef refrigerators
Important: Always verify your refrigerator's model number and compare the old relay's shape and terminal configuration to the new part before installing. Some models may require trimming the wire connector tabs for a proper fit. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Key Features
Provides the initial electrical surge needed to start the compressor motor — without it, the compressor cannot run and the refrigerator cannot cool
Kit includes both the start relay and the CBB61 run capacitor (15µF ±5%, 250VAC) — everything needed in one package
Plugs directly onto the compressor terminals — no wiring or soldering required in most cases
Quick rattle test — shake the old relay; if it rattles, the internal contacts have failed and it needs replacement
Replaces W10416065, 8208290, C8931605, and over a dozen additional cross-reference part numbers
Compatible with 13 major appliance brands on the Whirlpool platform
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Fast DIY repair — installs in under 15 minutes, no tools required in most cases
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10613606
Part Type
Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor Kit
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerator Compressor (side-by-side, French door, bottom-freezer)
Capacitor Type
CBB61 Run Capacitor
Capacitor Rating
15µF ±5%, 250VAC
Kit Includes
1x Start relay, 1x CBB61 capacitor
Installation
Plug-in — no tools required in most cases
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Admiral, Crosley, Dacor, Hardwick, Inglis, Litton, Magic Chef
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting Unplug the refrigerator from the power outlet before beginning. Move the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear or lower back panel. Remove the rear access panel by unscrewing the retaining screws to expose the compressor. The compressor is a large black dome-shaped component — the start relay and capacitor assembly plugs onto the side terminals. Grip the old relay firmly and pull it straight off the compressor pins. Shake it — if it rattles, the internal contacts have failed and replacement is confirmed. Compare the old relay to the new W10613606 to confirm the terminal layout matches. Align the new relay with the compressor pins and press it firmly on. Reinstall the access panel, restore power, and listen for the compressor to start and run normally within a few minutes. Note: Some models may require trimming the wire connector tabs or reversing the connector orientation for a proper fit — do not force the connection. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver (for panel access only).
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the compressor start relay do?
The start relay plugs onto the compressor terminals and provides the brief but powerful surge of electrical current needed to start the compressor motor from a standstill. Once the compressor reaches operating speed — usually within a second or two — the relay drops out and the compressor runs on its own. Without a working start relay, the compressor cannot start at all, and the refrigerator stops cooling. The capacitor works alongside the relay to store and deliver the extra energy needed on startup.
How do I know if my start relay has failed?
The most reliable quick test is the rattle test: unplug the refrigerator, pull the start relay off the compressor, and shake it near your ear. A working relay is silent. A failed relay will rattle — the internal contacts have broken free and are loose inside the casing. Another sign is a repeated clicking sound every 2–5 minutes from the back of the refrigerator, where the compressor attempts to start, fails, trips the overload protector, rests, and tries again. If the fridge is warm and you hear clicking, check the relay first.
What is the difference between the start relay and the capacitor?
The start relay is the switching device that connects and disconnects the start winding of the compressor motor during startup. The capacitor stores a charge and releases it during startup to give the motor the additional torque it needs to get moving under load. Together they work as a startup system for the compressor. This kit includes both — replacing both at the same time ensures the complete startup circuit is fresh and reliable.
My fridge is still not cooling after replacing the start relay — what else could it be?
If replacing the start relay does not restore cooling, other possible causes include a failed compressor (the compressor runs but no longer builds pressure), a refrigerant leak in the sealed system, a failed start capacitor (if not replaced along with the relay), a bad overload protector, or a faulty main control board. Listen carefully after installing the new relay — if the compressor now starts and runs but the fridge still doesn't cool after several hours, a sealed system issue or refrigerant problem is likely and will require a certified technician.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications and terminal configuration of the original W10613606 start relay and capacitor assembly.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor Replaces WPW10350564
The XPARTCO W10350564 is an aftermarket replacement compressor run capacitor compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers. The run capacitor is a small but critical electrical component mounted near the compressor at the back of the refrigerator — it delivers a phase-shifted power boost that helps the compressor motor start at the beginning of each cooling cycle, and supports smooth, efficient motor operation while the compressor runs. When the capacitor fails — typically from dielectric breakdown, age, heat, or moisture intrusion — the compressor may fail to start, hum without starting, kick on and off repeatedly, or cause inconsistent cooling throughout the refrigerator.
Rated 12 µF (MFD) ±5% capacitance, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. This capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device — the two components are frequently replaced together, since a failed capacitor often stresses the relay and vice versa. It directly replaces WPW10350564, W10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570. This is one of the most cost-effective refrigerator repairs — a failed run capacitor mimics symptoms of a failed compressor (a far more expensive repair), so testing and replacing the capacitor first can save hundreds of dollars. Installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO W10350564 Refrigerator Run Capacitor fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers where the compressor won't start, hums without starting, kicks on and off, or the fridge/freezer is too warm with inconsistent cooling. 12 µF (MFD) ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz. Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, 2683570. Often replaced together with the compressor start relay. A 15-minute repair that can save you from misdiagnosing a "failed compressor."
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Compressor won't start — no power boost from the failed capacitor
Compressor hums or clicks but doesn't start running
Compressor kicks on and off repeatedly (short cycling)
Refrigerator and freezer too warm — cooling cycles not completing
Fridge too warm while freezer seems okay — weak compressor operation
Noticeable humming sounds from the back of the refrigerator
Inconsistent cooling and variable temperatures inside the refrigerator
Refrigerator will not start at all
Capacitor visibly bulged, leaking, or burned
Capacitance test reads significantly off from 12 µF
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This run capacitor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WPW10350564, W10350564, PD00030179, EAP11753490, AP6020176, AWP50050, PS11753490.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This run capacitor is compatible with select refrigerators and freezers from the following brands:
Whirlpool refrigerators — French door, side-by-side, and bottom-mount models (including WRX735SDBM00 and related WRX/WRF series)
Maytag refrigerators (select models)
KitchenAid refrigerators (select models)
Jenn-Air refrigerators (select models)
Amana refrigerators (select models)
Magic Chef refrigerators (select models)
Roper refrigerators (select models)
Admiral refrigerators (select models)
Ikea refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Whirlpool-built models)
Also fits compatible upright and chest freezers on the Whirlpool platform
Note: The run capacitor works together with the compressor start relay/start device. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events — many repair scenarios call for replacing both at the same time since both are accessible in the same location and the combined parts cost is still far below a service call. Always verify your model number before ordering.
Key Features
Compressor run capacitor — delivers the phase-shifted power boost that starts the compressor motor and supports smooth operation during cooling cycles
Rated 12 µF (MFD) capacitance with ±5% tolerance — precise match to OEM electrical specifications
180VAC, 50/60Hz rating for compatible refrigerator compressor circuits
Resolves "compressor won't start," "humming but not starting," "short cycling," and "too warm" symptoms when caused by capacitor failure
A cost-effective first repair — failed capacitors commonly mimic the symptoms of a far more expensive failed compressor
Replaces WPW10350564, AP6020176, PS11753490, EAP11753490, and 2683570
Compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers
Often replaced together with the compressor start relay/start device as a paired repair
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Quick DIY repair — installs in about 15 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W10350564
OEM Part Number
WPW10350564
Part Type
Refrigerator Compressor Run Capacitor
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Refrigerators and Freezers (Whirlpool platform)
Capacitance
12 µF (MFD)
Tolerance
±5%
Voltage
180V AC
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Mounting Location
Near compressor, rear of refrigerator
Often Paired With
Compressor Start Relay / Start Device
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Roper, Admiral, Ikea, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Capacitor Safety Warning — Stored Electrical Charge Capacitors store an electrical charge even after the refrigerator is unplugged. Before handling the old capacitor, discharge it safely: with the refrigerator unplugged, touch the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver across both capacitor terminals simultaneously to short them together (you may see or hear a small spark — that's the stored charge dissipating). Never touch the capacitor terminals with bare hands before discharging. If you're not comfortable with this step, have the repair done by a qualified appliance technician.
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall to access the rear. Safely store any food that could spoil if the repair takes longer than expected. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. The run capacitor is located near the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, typically behind a lower rear access panel. Remove the screws holding the access panel and set it aside. Locate the capacitor — a small rectangular or oval component connected to the compressor's start relay/start device by wire terminals. Photograph the wire connections before disconnecting anything. Discharge the old capacitor before touching the terminals (see the safety warning above). Disconnect the wire terminals from the old capacitor — note which wire goes to which terminal. Release the capacitor from its mounting clip or bracket. Install the new W10350564 capacitor in the same position, secure the mounting clip, and reconnect the wires to the same terminals as photographed. While the panel is open, inspect the start relay/start device on the side of the compressor — if it rattles when shaken, shows burn marks, or has corroded terminals, replace it at the same time. Reinstall the rear access panel, push the refrigerator back into place, plug it in, and listen for the compressor to start smoothly within a few minutes. Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its set temperature. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, insulated-handle flathead screwdriver (for discharging), needle-nose pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the run capacitor has failed and not the compressor?
This is the key question — because a failed $15–30 capacitor produces nearly identical symptoms to a failed $300+ compressor. Signs pointing to the capacitor: the compressor hums or clicks but won't start; the compressor tries to start, runs briefly, then shuts off (short cycling); or the refrigerator gradually stopped cooling with humming from the rear. To test: unplug the refrigerator, discharge the capacitor, disconnect it, and measure it with a multimeter that has a capacitance setting — a healthy capacitor reads close to 12 µF (within ±5%). A reading far off, zero, or infinite confirms the capacitor has failed. Visual signs like bulging, leaking, or burn marks also confirm failure. Given the low cost, replacing the capacitor (and start relay) first is the standard diagnostic approach before condemning the compressor.
Should I replace the start relay at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The run capacitor and the compressor start relay/start device work together in the compressor's starting circuit — the relay switches power to the start winding while the capacitor provides the phase-shifted boost. When one fails, the other has typically been stressed by the same electrical events (voltage spikes, overheating, repeated failed start attempts). Both components are inexpensive, mounted in the same location on or near the compressor, and accessible in the same repair session. A quick relay check: with the refrigerator unplugged, remove the relay and shake it — if it rattles, the internal components have failed and it needs replacement.
Why does the capacitor need to be discharged before handling?
Capacitors store electrical energy — that's their job. Even after the refrigerator is unplugged, the capacitor can hold a charge capable of delivering a painful (and potentially dangerous) shock when you touch both terminals. Before handling, always discharge the capacitor by shorting both terminals together with the blade of an insulated-handle screwdriver — touch the metal blade across both terminals at once and hold for a second or two. You may see a small spark as the charge dissipates; that's normal. After discharging, the capacitor is safe to handle. This takes five seconds and eliminates the shock risk entirely.
What's the difference between a run capacitor and a start capacitor?
Both assist the compressor motor but in different phases of operation. A start capacitor delivers a large, brief boost only during the initial moment of motor startup, then is switched out of the circuit. A run capacitor — like the W10350564 — stays in the circuit continuously while the motor runs, providing an ongoing phase shift that improves the motor's running efficiency and torque. Household refrigerators on the Whirlpool platform typically use a run capacitor working alongside the start relay/start device. Match the replacement to your original: the W10350564 is a 12 µF, 180VAC run capacitor, and the capacitance rating must match for correct compressor operation.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine Whirlpool OEM part, but is manufactured to match the electrical specifications (12 µF ±5%, 180VAC, 50/60Hz), terminal configuration, and compressor-support function of the original WPW10350564/W10350564 run capacitor used in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, and Kenmore refrigerators and freezers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Quality Aftermarket Parts ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
DA29-00020B Refrigerator Water
Description: This high-quality water filter, DA29-00020B, is compatible with the HAF-CIN/EXP model. It effectively removes impurities and contaminants, providing you with clean and safe drinking water. Trust in its superior filtration to protect your health and your refrigerator's efficiency.
Replaces Part Number: DA29-00020B, HAF-CIN/EXP, 2008145, DA29-00019A, AP5271937, PS4138224.
California Residents only
WARNING: Cancer and/or Reproductive Harm - www.p65warnings.ca.gov
WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve
The WH13X10029 is a genuine GE OEM water inlet valve for GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers. This is a 2-inlet, 3-outlet valve assembly built around three internal solenoids: two work together during the wash portion of the cycle, opening in different combinations depending on the wash temperature you select, while the third solenoid handles the dedicated cold-only rinse. Because three separate solenoids share one valve body, a failure in any single one of them can affect only part of your washer's fill behavior while the rest continues working normally.
Rated 120V, 60Hz, and measuring approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H, this valve ships as a complete 3-solenoid assembly with its mounting bracket included. Common failure symptoms include the washer continuing to fill after it should have stopped, slow filling, or a complete failure to fill on one specific water temperature setting while others work fine. It directly replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392. As a genuine OEM part, the WH13X10029 is manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Quick Answer
The WH13X10029 Genuine OEM GE Washer Water Valve fixes GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers that won't shut off after filling, fill slowly, or won't fill on a specific temperature setting (such as cold-only rinse) while other settings work fine. 2-inlet, 3-outlet, 3-solenoid valve assembly with mounting bracket, 120V, 60Hz, 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H. Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, PS1482392. Genuine OEM — manufactured by GE to factory specifications for guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer keeps filling and won't shut off, even after reaching the correct level
Washer fills much more slowly than it used to
Washer won't fill at all on one specific temperature setting while other settings work normally
Cold-only rinse cycle failing to fill while wash-cycle fills work fine (or vice versa)
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Water leaking or dripping near the valve connections
Washer stopping mid-cycle due to a fill-related fault
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH13X10029, 33090039, PD00001515, EAP1482392, AGE26067, AH1482392, EA1482392, AP4303282, PS1482392.
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers, including model families such as GFA, GFW, GMA, and WBV, and specific models such as GFWS1600H, GFWS1605H, GFWS1700H, and GFWS1705H.
Note: This valve is specific to GE's front-load washer platform. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified solenoid design and flow-rate calibration
Complete 3-solenoid water valve assembly — 2 inlets (hot and cold), 3 outlets
Two solenoids manage the wash-cycle fill combinations by temperature selection; a third handles cold-only rinse
Resolves "won't shut off," "fills slowly," and "won't fill on a specific temperature setting" symptoms caused by valve failure
Includes the mounting bracket — no need to transfer hardware from the old valve
Rated 120V, 60Hz
Approximately 5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces AP4303282, WV10029, 33090039, 1475762, AH1482392, EA1482392, EAP1482392, PD00001515, and PS1482392
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café front-load washers
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH13X10029
Condition
Genuine OEM
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve (2-In / 3-Out, 3-Solenoid)
Brand
GE
Application
Front-Load Washers
Voltage
120V
Frequency
60 Hz
Inlets
2 (hot and cold)
Outlets
3
Solenoids
3 (one double, one single, one dedicated cold-rinse)
Dimensions
5-3/8"L x 3-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H
Kit Contents
Valve assembly + mounting bracket
Quantity
1 valve assembly
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Stackable Units May Need A Second Person Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. If your washer is part of a stacked laundry center, the dryer sitting on top will need to be removed first to access the top of the washer — this is much easier with a second person helping to lift and support the dryer safely. Remove the screws securing the top panel of the washer, then slide the panel back and lift it off to access the valve assembly. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the back of the valve, keeping a towel handy for residual water. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything, since this valve has multiple solenoids and outlet hoses that must be reconnected in the correct positions. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the three outlet hoses from the old valve, then remove its mounting screws and pull it free along with its bracket. Install the new WH13X10029 assembly in the same position, reconnect all three outlet hoses to their original positions, reconnect the electrical connectors, and secure the mounting screws. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses, tightening securely. Reinstall the top panel, restore the water supply, and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings, including a cold-only rinse if your washer has one, to confirm each solenoid is filling and shutting off correctly. If this is a stackable unit, carefully reposition the dryer back on top once testing is complete. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, towel, work gloves, and a helper for stackable units.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer won't shut off and keeps filling. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is one of the most common symptoms of a failing valve on this platform. A worn internal seal on one of the three solenoids can fail to close fully, letting water continue flowing even after the correct fill level is reached. Since this could lead to overflow, it's worth shutting off the water supply at the wall if you notice this happening rather than waiting to address it.
Only my cold-only rinse doesn't fill, but regular wash cycles work fine. Do I need the whole valve?
Yes. This valve houses three separate solenoids in one assembly — two that combine for wash-cycle fills at different temperatures, and one dedicated specifically to the cold-only rinse. If just one of those three has failed, the others can continue working normally, which is exactly why a single-cycle fill problem can appear alongside otherwise normal operation. The three solenoids aren't sold or serviced individually, so replacing the complete assembly is the correct repair even if only one function is affected.
Do I really need to remove the dryer if this is a stacked unit?
On most stacked laundry centers, yes — the top panel of the washer sits underneath the dryer, so the dryer needs to come off first to get access. This is a heavier, more awkward step than the rest of the repair, so it's worth having a second person help lift and support the dryer safely rather than attempting it alone.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It includes the same 3-solenoid design, flow rate, and mounting configuration as the water valve originally installed in your front-load washer.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
✓ Genuine OEM Parts ✓ Fast US Shipping ✓ Compatibility Support ✓ Secure Checkout
WR49X25197 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Axial Evaporator Motor Replaces WR60X26866
The WR49X25197 is a genuine GE OEM axial evaporator fan motor for the fresh food evaporator on select GE French door refrigerators. Unlike a standard evaporator fan motor, this is an axial-design motor purpose-built for the fresh food side of the refrigeration system, using its blade geometry to move air efficiently and quietly through that compartment's evaporator coil for precise, consistent temperature control.
Rated 13.6VDC, 0.16A. Manufactured by Nidec, designation V80E14MS2A3-57A611. Over time, motor bearings wear out or the motor can fail electrically, and symptoms typically include the fresh food compartment running warm while the freezer remains unaffected, unusual noise from the fresh food evaporator area, or inconsistent cooling in that compartment specifically, since this motor doesn't serve the freezer side at all. It directly replaces WR60X26866, WR60X10341, WR60X24303, WR60X26033, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR60X26030, 239D1412P001, 239D1412P006, and AP6278228.
Quick Answer
The WR49X25197 Genuine OEM GE Axial Evaporator Motor fixes GE French door refrigerators where the fresh food compartment specifically runs warm, there's unusual noise from the fresh food evaporator area, or fresh food cooling is inconsistent while the freezer works fine. 13.6VDC, 0.16A axial motor. Replaces WR60X26866, WR60X10341, WR60X24303, WR60X26033, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR60X26030, 239D1412P001, 239D1412P006, AP6278228. If your refrigerator was manufactured between May 2014 and March 2015 (serial range HD–FF), the control software must also be updated by factory service or a Software Update Module (WR98R882802) for this motor to perform correctly.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Fresh food compartment running warm while the freezer stays normal
Unusual noise coming from the fresh food evaporator area
Inconsistent or fluctuating temperature in the fresh food section specifically
Fresh food evaporator fan not spinning or spinning intermittently
Reduced airflow affecting fresh food cooling performance
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This refrigerator axial evaporator motor directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WR49X25197, WR60X26866, WR02X13733, WR60X10341, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR60X24303, WR60X26030, WR60X26033, V80E14MS2A3-57A611, 8817V W1, 239D1412P006, PD00038765, FIX12172983, AGE29673, AP6278228, PS12172983
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This axial evaporator motor is compatible with select GE French door refrigerators.
Note — fresh food evaporator only, and a software caveat for certain units: This motor serves the fresh food evaporator specifically — a different application from a general freezer evaporator fan motor. Additionally, if your refrigerator was manufactured between May 2014 and March 2015 (serial range HD through FF), the refrigerator's control software must be updated by factory service, or with a Software Update Module (WR98R882802), for this motor to perform correctly after installation. Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine GE OEM part — factory-specified axial blade design for the fresh food evaporator
Resolves "fresh food running warm," "unusual noise from the fresh food evaporator," and "inconsistent fresh food cooling" symptoms
Rated 13.6VDC, 0.16A
Manufactured by Nidec, designation V80E14MS2A3-57A611
Direct drop-in replacement matching the original mounting and blade fitment
Replaces WR60X26866, WR60X10341, WR60X24303, WR60X26033, WR60X10356, WR60X10357, WR60X26030, 239D1412P001, 239D1412P006, and AP6278228
Compatible with GE French door refrigerators
Genuine OEM replacement — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance
Product Specifications
Part Number
WR49X25197
OEM Part Number
WR60X26866
Part Type
Axial Evaporator Fan Motor (Fresh Food)
Condition
Genuine OEM
Brand
GE
Application
French Door Refrigerators — Fresh Food Evaporator
Voltage
13.6VDC
Amperage
0.16A
Motor Manufacturer
Nidec (V80E14MS2A3-57A611)
Motor Type
Axial
Software Update Caveat
Required for units mfg. May 2014–March 2015, serial range HD–FF (WR98R882802)
Quantity
1 evaporator motor
Compatible Brand
GE
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator Before Starting — Check Your Manufacture Date For A Software Update Requirement Disconnect power at the outlet before beginning, and move perishable food to a cooler for the duration of the repair. Wear work gloves. Before starting, check your refrigerator's serial number/manufacture date sticker (typically inside the fresh food compartment) — if your unit was made between May 2014 and March 2015 with a serial range of HD through FF, plan for a control software update via factory service or a Software Update Module (WR98R882802) after installing this motor, since without it the new motor may not perform correctly. Access to the fresh food evaporator is typically through an interior panel in the fresh food compartment, separate from the freezer's evaporator access — check your model's service diagram. If there's frost or ice buildup around the fan or coil, let the unit sit unplugged with the door open for a few hours before continuing. Photograph the wiring harness connector and the fan blade's orientation before disconnecting anything. Unplug the wiring harness connector from the old motor, remove the mounting screws or clips holding the motor bracket in place, and pull the motor and fan blade assembly free. Mount the new WR49X25197 in the same position, reconnect the wiring harness connector fully, and confirm the blade spins freely by hand without contacting the housing before reassembling the panel. Restore power and monitor the fresh food compartment over the next 24 hours to confirm even, consistent cooling has returned. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
My fresh food section runs warm but the freezer is fine. Is this the right part?
Yes, this is exactly the symptom pattern this motor addresses, since it's dedicated specifically to the fresh food evaporator rather than serving both compartments. If your freezer is cooling normally and only the fresh food section is warm or inconsistent, this axial motor is a strong candidate for the cause.
Do I really need a software update after installing this motor?
Only if your refrigerator falls into a specific manufacturing window: units made between May 2014 and March 2015, identifiable by a serial range of HD through FF. For those units, GE's own guidance states the control software must be updated by factory service or with a Software Update Module (WR98R882802) for the new motor to perform correctly. If your refrigerator falls outside that date range, this step isn't necessary — check your serial number sticker to confirm which category your unit falls into.
Is this the same as a regular evaporator fan motor?
Not quite — this is an axial-design motor built specifically for the fresh food evaporator on GE French door refrigerators, distinct from general evaporator fan motors that serve the freezer side or both compartments together. Always confirm your model number and which compartment's fan has failed before ordering.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a genuine OEM part, manufactured by GE to factory specifications — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance. It matches the original axial motor design, blade fitment, and electrical rating of the fresh food evaporator motor originally installed in your refrigerator.
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Genuine Whirlpool OEM
Whirlpool WPW10184813 Refrigerator Genuine OEM Ice Dispenser Motor
Genuine OEM ice-dispenser door motor for select Whirlpool-built refrigerators.
Product Overview
The Whirlpool WPW10184813 Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Door Motor is a Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement part. It opens and closes the ice chute door during dispenser operation so ice can pass through the chute and the door can reseal afterward.
A failed motor can cause the dispenser door to remain stuck open or closed, prevent ice from dispensing correctly, or allow warm room air to enter the chute area.
Quick Answer
WPW10184813 is the Genuine Whirlpool OEM ice-dispenser door motor that replaces W10184813 and 2305262. Verify the complete refrigerator model number before purchase.
Common Problems This Part May Fix
Ice dispenser door will not open
Ice chute door will not close
Ice maker makes ice but ice will not dispense
Chute door sticks or operates intermittently
Warm air enters around the dispenser chute
Frost or moisture develops around the dispenser opening
Replaces and Cross-References
WPW10184813, 1489085, 2305262, AP6016508, EAP11749796, W10184813, AWP49407, OEM18049533, PD00006398, PS11749796
Cross-reference numbers are provided for identification. Always verify compatibility by complete refrigerator model number.
Compatibility
Used on select Whirlpool-built refrigerators sold under Whirlpool, KitchenAid, JennAir, Maytag, and Kenmore brand names. Compatible model examples include:
GI7FVCXWY00
KSCS25FTMS02
KSRS25FTSS01
KSCS23FVMS02
KSRS25RSBT01
KSCS25FVMS01
KSCS25FTSS00
GC3NHAXVA00
106.56702500
Important: This is only a partial model list. Confirm the complete model number from the refrigerator identification label before ordering.
Key Features
Genuine Whirlpool OEM part
Operates the ice dispenser chute door
Replaces W10184813 and 2305262
For select Whirlpool-built side-by-side and French-door refrigerators
Helps restore proper dispenser-door opening and closing
Product Specifications
Manufacturer Part Number
WPW10184813
Brand
Whirlpool
Part Type
Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Door Motor
Condition
New
Quality
Genuine OEM
Application
Ice Dispenser Chute Door
Package Quantity
1 Motor
Installation Notes
Disconnect refrigerator power before service.
Remove the dispenser trim and front components according to the appliance service procedure.
Photograph connector and mechanical linkage positions before disassembly.
Inspect the chute door, hinge, spring, and linkage for binding or damage before replacing the motor.
Transfer or reconnect the wiring and linkage exactly as originally installed.
Reassemble all dispenser parts and verify the chute door opens and fully closes before returning the refrigerator to service.
Diagnostic tip: A dispenser that will not release ice can also be caused by an actuator, dispenser switch, control board, auger motor, frozen chute, or mechanical obstruction. Diagnose the dispenser system before replacing parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is WPW10184813 a Genuine Whirlpool OEM part?
Yes. WPW10184813 is a Genuine Whirlpool OEM ice-dispenser door motor.
Does it replace W10184813?
Yes. Whirlpool lists WPW10184813 as the replacement for W10184813 and 2305262.
What does this motor do?
It opens and closes the dispenser chute door so ice can pass through the chute and the opening can reseal after dispensing.
Will it fit every Whirlpool refrigerator?
No. Verify the complete refrigerator model number before ordering because dispenser designs vary by model and production revision.
Shop With Confidence
Genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement part. Verify your complete refrigerator model and original part number before ordering.
Genuine OEMIce Dispenser MotorCompatibility SupportFast U.S. Shipping
W11205048 Washer Genuine OEM Water Valve
Fits select Kenmore, Maytag, Whirlpool top load washer models.
Replaces Part Numbers: W11205048, 4814041, W10843663, AP6327347, PS12349203.
Description: This Water Inlet Valve is a Genuine OEM part for specific Whirlpool washing machine models. This valve controls the flow of water into the washer, allowing it to fill with the correct amount of water during the wash and rinse cycles. Over time, the water inlet valve can become clogged with debris, develop electrical issues, or wear out, leading to problems with the water flow. Causes of a bad water inlet valve include mineral buildup from hard water, internal component failure, or damage to the valve body.
W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve
The W11434044 is a Genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement dishwasher water inlet valve assembly compatible with a wide range of Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, and Caloric dishwashers. The water inlet valve is mounted at the base of the dishwasher and connects to the household cold water supply line. When the control board calls for water during the fill cycle, the valve's internal solenoid opens, allowing water to flow into the tub. The valve closes the instant the control board cuts power, stopping flow precisely when the correct water level is reached. Without a properly functioning inlet valve, the dishwasher can't get water into the tub — meaning it can't wash, rinse, or complete a cycle.
Rated 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximate dimensions: 2.9" H x 2.3" W with a 0.9" threaded orifice for the water supply connection. The package includes the water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and two hose clamps — everything needed for the connection between the valve and the dishwasher's water divider. As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications, the W11434044 directly replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908. Important: the water inlet connection uses plastic threads, which are easily damaged by over-tightening or cross-threading — hand-tighten the water line carefully during installation. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The W11434044 Genuine OEM Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve fixes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Kenmore dishwashers that aren't filling with water, fill slowly, aren't washing properly, drain immediately after filling, or leak at the valve. 120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W. Approximately 2.9"H x 2.3"W. Genuine OEM. Includes inlet valve, water outlet pipe, and 2 hose clamps. Replaces W11187724, W11025972, W11025970, AWP44732, AP6987233, PS16217908. Compatible with WDT750SAKZ, KDTM404KPS, MDB4949SKZ, WDTA50SAKZ, KDTE204KPS, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024, WDT740SAL, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK series and related models. Plastic-thread inlet connection — hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Dishwasher not filling with water — valve solenoid not opening when commanded
Dishwasher filling too slowly — valve partially clogged with sediment or weak solenoid
Dishes not being washed properly due to insufficient water fill
Dishwasher fills but doesn't reach normal water level
Water leaking from the valve body or its connections
Dishwasher continuously running water even when the cycle should be complete — valve stuck open
Dishwasher won't advance past the fill phase due to insufficient water detection
Excessive cycle times as the dishwasher tries to fill from a partially clogged valve
Multimeter test on the valve solenoid shows no continuity
Replaces Part Numbers
This dishwasher water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
W11434044, W11025970, W11025972, W11187724, AP6987233, AWP44732, EAP16217908, PD00064823, PS16217908.
W11434044 is the current OEM production part superseding W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This water inlet valve is compatible with select dishwashers from the following brands:
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDPA70SAMZ0, WDPA70SAMZ2, WDPA70SAMZ3, WDPS7024RV0, WDPS7024RZ0 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT740SALB2, WDT740SALB3, WDT740SALW2, WDT740SALW3, WDT740SALZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT750SAKB0/B2/B3, WDT750SAKV0/V2/V3, WDT750SAKW0/W2/W3, WDT750SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT751SAPZ0, WDT751SAPZ1 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDT970SAKV2, WDT970SAKV3, WDT970SAKZ2, WDT970SAKZ3 series
Whirlpool dishwashers — WDTA50SAKB0/B2/B3, WDTA50SAKT0/T2/T3, WDTA50SAKV0/V2/V3, WDTA50SAKZ0/Z2/Z3 series
KitchenAid dishwashers — KDTM404KPS, KDTE204KPS and related models
Maytag dishwashers — MDB4949SKZ and related models
JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric — select Whirlpool-built dishwashers
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Controls the flow of water into the dishwasher during fill cycles
Solenoid-actuated — opens precisely when the control board calls for water and closes the moment the call is dropped
120V AC, 50/60Hz, 6/5W — correct electrical specifications for compatible Whirlpool-platform dishwashers
Dimensions: approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W · 0.9" threaded orifice diameter
Includes water inlet valve, water outlet pipe (inlet hose), and 2 hose clamps for a complete connection set
Current OEM production part — supersedes W11187724, W11025972, and W11025970
Also replaces AWP44732, AP6987233, and PS16217908
Compatible with Whirlpool WDT740SAL, WDT750SAK, WDT751SAP, WDT970SAK, WDTA50SAK, WDPA70SAMZ, WDPS7024 series and select KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers
DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
W11434044
Supersedes
W11187724, W11025972, W11025970
Part Type
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Dishwashers (Whirlpool platform)
Voltage
120V AC
Frequency
50/60 Hz
Wattage
6/5W
Dimensions
Approximately 2.9" H x 2.3" W
Threaded Orifice Diameter
0.9"
Inlet Thread Material
Plastic (hand-tighten carefully to avoid stripping)
Body Material
ABS Plastic / Stainless Steel
Includes
1x Inlet Valve, 1x Water Outlet Pipe, 2x Hose Clamps
Compatible Brands
Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, Roper, Admiral, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Ikea, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Norge, Modern Maid, Caloric
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Dishwasher and Shut Off Water Supply Before Starting — Wear Work Gloves — DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN PLASTIC THREADS Disconnect power at the breaker and shut off the household water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink before beginning. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Have towels ready — residual water remains in the supply line and will spill when disconnected. Critical: the W11434044's water supply connection uses plastic threads. Multiple installers have reported stripping the plastic threads by over-tightening or cross-threading the water line during installation — always hand-tighten the fitting carefully and align the threads squarely before tightening. If your dishwasher is installed under a counter, working through the lower access panel is possible but tight — many installers find it easier to pull the dishwasher partially out from the cabinet, or lay it on its side, to reach the inlet connection cleanly (this also lets you use a 90-degree hose fitting without cross-threading). Remove the lower access panel (typically 2 screws) at the front bottom of the dishwasher. Locate the water inlet valve. Photograph the wire harness and hose connections before disconnecting anything. Disconnect the household water supply line from the valve. Squeeze the hose clamps with pliers and slide them back to release the outlet hose from the valve, then disconnect the wire harness plug. Remove the mounting screws holding the valve in place. Install the new W11434044 valve, secure the mounting hardware, and reconnect the outlet hose and hose clamps. Push the electrical connector's fixing plate firmly into place before connecting the wire harness plug — this prevents the connector from falling out during operation. Reconnect the household water supply — hand-tighten the fitting carefully to avoid stripping the plastic threads. Restore water and power. Run a test cycle and check for leaks at all connections. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench (used lightly on plastic threads only!), channel-lock pliers, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
My dishwasher isn't filling with water — is the inlet valve the problem?
Very likely, yes — that's the most common symptom of a failed dishwasher water inlet valve. Before replacing, do a few quick checks: 1) confirm the household water supply to the dishwasher is turned on at the shutoff valve; 2) check the household water pressure at a nearby fixture (a nearby faucet) to make sure your home has normal pressure; 3) inspect the inlet screen on the valve for sediment buildup — a clogged screen can mimic a failed valve. If the supply is good and the screen is clean but the dishwasher still won't fill, the W11434044 valve solenoid has likely failed and replacing it will resolve the issue. You can also test the solenoid with a multimeter — no continuity means the solenoid has burned out.
What is the difference between W11434044 and W11025970/W11025972/W11187724?
These are the same water inlet valve across production revisions. W11025970 was the original OEM part number, W11025972 and W11187724 were mid-generation revisions, and W11434044 is the current OEM production version. All are physically and functionally interchangeable — if your dishwasher's parts diagram or the part on your appliance shows any of these numbers, the W11434044 is the correct current replacement, and this listing covers all of them.
Why is over-tightening the water line connection such a common issue?
The water supply inlet on the W11434044 has plastic threads to reduce cost and simplify manufacturing — but plastic threads are much less forgiving than brass or metal fittings. Cross-threading (starting the fitting at an angle instead of straight-in) or applying too much torque with a wrench will strip the plastic threads or split the fitting. Always align the water line fitting carefully by hand first, get several turns of engagement before applying any tool, and use only enough torque to snug the connection (typically hand-tight plus a very light quarter-turn with a wrench). If the threads are already stripped, the valve or a replacement plastic fitting will need to be ordered — the connection can't be repaired.
Should I lay the dishwasher on its side for this repair?
If you're finding it difficult to reach the water inlet connection cleanly through the lower access panel — which is a common complaint from installers — laying the dishwasher on its side (or pulling it partially out from the cabinet) makes the connection much easier to work with. This is especially helpful if your water supply line uses a 90-degree hose fitting that needs a straight approach for correct thread engagement. Before laying the dishwasher down, disconnect all connections and drain any residual water from the tub to avoid spills. Note that if the door has been damaged or bent, laying the unit on its side can worsen the damage — inspect first.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Whirlpool to factory specifications. It is the exact same water inlet valve installed in compatible Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Kenmore, Amana, and related Whirlpool-built dishwashers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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XPARTCO WH13X26535 Washer Water Valve
The XPARTCO WH13X26535 is an aftermarket replacement water inlet valve assembly for GE top-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café models. This valve controls the flow of hot and cold water into the tub during the fill portion of the cycle, ensuring each wash uses the correct amount of water at the right temperature blend. It's housed in durable gray plastic.
Common failure causes include mineral or sediment buildup inside the valve body, a burned-out internal solenoid coil, and general wear over years of use — five years is a commonly cited service life before this valve starts to show problems. A failing valve produces a clear set of symptoms: the washer not filling properly, water continuing to fill or drip even when the washer is turned off, or leaking near the valve area. It directly replaces WH13X26535, WH13X24386, 4931303, WH13X24392, AP6892695, AGE26261, EAP12726769, OEM20678094, PD00052736, PS12726769
Quick Answer
The XPARTCO WH13X26535 Washer Water Valve fixes GE top-load washers that aren't filling properly, are overfilling, or have water slowly dripping into the tub even when the washer is off. Housed in gray plastic. Replaces WH13X26535, WH13X24386, 4931303, WH13X24392, AP6892695, AGE26261, EAP12726769, OEM20678094, PD00052736, PS12726769. This replacement valve does not include a thermistor or gasket — if your old valve has a thermistor mounted in front of the solenoids, you'll need to transfer it (with its gasket) to the new valve. Also not the same as the similarly-numbered WH13X26534, which is a separate valve for other GE/Hotpoint models.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Washer not filling with water properly
Washer overfilling
Water slowly dripping or leaking into the tub even when the washer is turned off
Leaking near the valve connections
No hot water reaching the tub, or no cold water reaching the tub
Cycle stalling at the fill step and never advancing to wash
Cross Reference Information
Part numbers can change over a product's lifecycle as manufacturers update designs or release new appliance models. For your convenience, we've included any known superseded, alternate, or cross-reference part numbers that match this item.
Replaces Part Numbers
This washer water inlet valve directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
WH13X26535, WH13X24386, 4931303, WH13X24392, AP6892695, AGE26261, EAP12726769, OEM20678094, PD00052736, PS12726769
If your part number is not listed above, contact our support team before ordering and we will verify compatibility.
Compatibility
This water valve is compatible with select GE top-load washers, and also fits select Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café washers built on the GE platform, spanning model series GTW460, GTW465, GTW485, GTW490, GTW500, GTW525, GTW540, and VTW540, including specific model numbers such as 5TW4207ST0WS, 5TW4307SW0WS, ETW485ASW0WB, GTW460AMJ0WW, GTW460AMJ1WW, and GTW460AMJ2WW.
Note — thermistor transfer required, and not the same as WH13X26534: This valve does not include a thermistor or the rubber gasket that seats it. If your original valve has a thermistor mounted in front of the solenoids, you must transfer that thermistor and its gasket onto this new valve during installation. Separately, this part is not the same as the similarly-numbered WH13X26534, a distinct valve used on other GE/Hotpoint models with its own cross-reference set (PS12726768, AP6891106). Always verify your full model number before ordering. Contact our support team with your model number if you're unsure.
Key Features
Aftermarket replacement water inlet valve — controls hot and cold water flow into the tub
Resolves "won't fill properly," "overfilling," and "dripping into the tub when off" symptoms caused by valve failure
Durable gray plastic housing
Direct drop-in replacement — matches the original mounting and hose connections
Replaces WH13X26535, WH13X24386, 4931303, WH13X24392, AP6892695, AGE26261, EAP12726769, OEM20678094, PD00052736, PS12726769
Compatible with GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café top-load washers
Aftermarket replacement built to OEM-equivalent quality standards
Moderate DIY repair, typically 30 to 60 minutes
Product Specifications
Part Number
WH13X26535
OEM Part Number
WH13X26535
Part Type
Washer Water Inlet Valve
Condition
Aftermarket Replacement
Application
Top-Load Washers
Housing Material
Gray plastic
Includes Thermistor/Gasket
No — transfer from old valve if equipped
Repair Difficulty
Moderate — 30 to 60 minutes
Quantity
1 valve
Compatible Brands
GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, Café
Installation Notes
⚠️ Shut Off Water Supply And Unplug Washer Before Starting — Watch For The Thermistor O-Ring Disconnect power at the outlet or shut off the circuit breaker, and shut off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Wear work gloves. Access is typically behind the front control panel or top of the cabinet, depending on your model. The valve assembly is usually held in place with a metal plate and two screws. Photograph the wiring and hose connections before disconnecting anything. If your old valve has a thermistor (temperature sensor) mounted in front of the solenoids, it fits into a small hole in the bracket and uses an O-ring seal that's known to degrade and leak over time — this new valve does not include one, so you'll need to carefully transfer the thermistor and its gasket from the old valve to the new one. Disconnect the electrical connector and outlet hoses from the old valve, remove its mounting screws, and pull it free. Transfer the thermistor and gasket to the new WH13X26535 if applicable, then install it in the same position, reconnect all outlet hoses to their original positions, reconnect the electrical connector, and secure the mounting screws. Reattach the hot and cold supply hoses, tightening securely. Restore the water supply and check every connection for leaks before restoring power. Run a full test cycle across a few different temperature settings to confirm each fill function works correctly with no leaking. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers, work gloves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this valve come with the thermistor?
No. This valve no longer comes with the rubber gasket or thermistor that some GE washers use, mounted directly in front of the solenoids. If your old unit has one, you'll need to remove it from the old valve, along with its gasket, and transfer it onto this new valve during installation.
Water has been slowly leaking into my tub even when the washer is off. Is that this valve?
Yes, this is a documented cause. One customer traced over a year of slow leaking directly to this valve's thermistor O-ring, which is known to degrade over time and let water seep through even when the washer isn't running. Replacing the valve (and transferring a good thermistor and gasket if your model uses one) resolves this type of slow leak.
Is this the same as WH13X26534?
No, these are two separate GE valve part numbers with different cross-reference sets, despite the similar numbering. Always confirm the exact part number from your washer's parts diagram or the sticker on your old valve rather than assuming based on a close number match.
Is this an OEM or aftermarket part?
This is an aftermarket replacement part built to OEM-equivalent quality standards. It is not a genuine GE OEM part, but is manufactured to match the solenoid design, housing, and connection type of the original WH13X26535 valve used in compatible GE, Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café top-load washers.
Shop With Confidence
A U.S.-based appliance parts retailer specializing in genuine OEM and high-quality replacement parts. We stock components for all major appliance brands and offer fast shipping from our U.S. warehouse. Our team is available to help verify compatibility before you purchase.
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5304524953 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly
The 5304524953 is a Genuine OEM Frigidaire/Electrolux replacement defrost heater assembly compatible with select Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and upright freezers — including the popular Frigidaire Professional 19 cu. ft. single-door models in the FPRU19F8 and FPFU19F8 series. The defrost heater is mounted near the evaporator coils and periodically activates during the dishwasher's defrost cycle to melt frost buildup that accumulates on the coils. Without functioning defrost, frost continues to build up on the evaporator until it blocks airflow — causing the refrigerator or freezer to lose cooling efficiency, run continuously, and ultimately fail to maintain set temperatures.
As a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications, the 5304524953 directly replaces 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, and 4975045. Tip: when replacing the defrost heater, it's a good time to also inspect or replace the paired defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board — these three components form the defrost system and often fail in sequence. Addressing them together saves a future repair. Installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools.
Quick Answer
The 5304524953 Genuine OEM Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly fixes Frigidaire and related-brand refrigerators and upright freezers with excessive frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils, freezer or fresh food section too warm, refrigerator running continuously, or food spoiling faster than normal. Genuine OEM. Replaces 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, 4975045. Compatible with Frigidaire Professional FPRU19F8WF0/WF2/WF3/WF4/WF5 and FPFU19F8WF2/WF4/WF5 series, plus Crosley, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built models. Often paired with defrost thermostat replacement.
Common Problems This Part Fixes
Excessive frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils
Freezer section too warm — evaporator coils iced over and blocking airflow
Refrigerator section too warm — cold air not circulating because coils are frosted
Refrigerator/freezer running continuously without reaching set temperature
Food spoiling faster than normal due to inadequate cooling
Visible ice sheet on the rear interior wall of the freezer compartment
Defrost heater visibly burned through, broken, or showing arcing damage
Multimeter continuity test on the heater shows an open circuit (no continuity)
Replaces Part Numbers
This defrost heater assembly directly replaces the following OEM and cross-reference part numbers:
5304524953, 5304523833, 140223390018, 4975045, AFR19119, AP6997296, EAP16227227, PD00083605, PS16227227.
5304524953 is the current production part superseding 5304523833. Contact our support team with your model number if you need confirmation before ordering.
Compatibility
This defrost heater assembly is compatible with select refrigerators and upright freezers from the following brands:
Frigidaire Professional refrigerators — FPRU19F8WF0, FPRU19F8WF2, FPRU19F8WF3, FPRU19F8WF4, FPRU19F8WF5 series (19 cu. ft. single-door)
Frigidaire Professional upright freezers — FPFU19F8WF2, FPFU19F8WF4, FPFU19F8WF5 series
Frigidaire refrigerators — FPRU19F7WF0 and related FPRU/FPFU series models
Electrolux refrigerators and freezers — select Frigidaire-platform models
Crosley refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models)
Gibson refrigerators (select models)
Kelvinator refrigerators (select models)
Tappan refrigerators (select models)
Westinghouse refrigerators (select models)
Kenmore / Sears refrigerators (select Frigidaire-built models)
White-Westinghouse refrigerators (select models)
Always verify your appliance model number before ordering. Contact our support team if you're unsure.
Key Features
Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications — guaranteed fit and performance
Defrost heater assembly — periodically melts frost buildup on the evaporator coils to maintain proper airflow and cooling efficiency
Direct factory-original replacement — no modifications required
Current production part — directly supersedes 5304523833
Replaces AP6997296, PS16227227, and 4975045 (plus 5304523833)
Compatible with Frigidaire Professional FPRU19F8 and FPFU19F8 series, plus Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and upright freezers
Often replaced together with the defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board as a paired defrost-system repair
DIY repair — installs in 30–45 minutes with basic hand tools
Product Specifications
Part Number
5304524953
Supersedes
5304523833
Part Type
Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Heater Assembly
Condition
Genuine OEM
Application
Refrigerators and Upright Freezers (Frigidaire/Electrolux platform)
Location
Mounted near the evaporator coils
Approximate Weight
1.60 lbs
Often Paired With
Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Timer/Control Board
Compatible Brands
Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, Kenmore
Installation Notes
⚠️ Unplug Refrigerator and Move Perishable Food Before Starting — Don't Touch Heater with Bare Hands Unplug the refrigerator and safely store any food that could spoil while the power is off. Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes. Handle the new heater only by its mounting brackets or end terminals — do NOT touch the heating element directly with bare fingers; skin oils can cause hot spots and shorten the heater's life. The defrost heater is mounted near the evaporator coils, behind the rear interior access panel of the freezer compartment. Remove all freezer shelves, drawers, and the ice maker (if equipped) to clear access. If there's a heavy ice sheet covering the back wall, allow the freezer to thaw completely or carefully manually defrost the coils before continuing — never break ice off the coils, as this damages the aluminum fins. Once the area is clear, remove the screws securing the rear access panel and lift it away to expose the evaporator coils and the defrost heater. Photograph the wire connections and heater orientation before disconnecting. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the old heater, release the heater from its mounting clips or brackets, and lift it out. Install the new 5304524953 heater in the same position, ensuring it's properly seated in the mounting brackets, and reconnect the wire harness. While the panel is open, inspect the defrost thermostat for damage — if it's brittle, discolored, or shows visible defects, this is the ideal time to replace it as well. Reinstall the rear access panel, shelves, drawers, and ice maker. Plug the refrigerator back in and allow several hours for the unit to return to its set temperature before reloading with food. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, work gloves, safety glasses.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the defrost heater has failed?
The most reliable sign is heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils behind the freezer back panel — when the heater can't melt the frost as designed, ice accumulates until it blocks airflow and cooling efficiency drops. You may also notice the freezer or fresh food section running warm, the compressor running continuously, or food spoiling faster than normal. To confirm with the refrigerator unplugged: remove the rear freezer access panel, disconnect the heater's wire harness, and test the heater's terminals with a multimeter set to continuity mode. A working heater shows continuity (low resistance); a failed heater shows an open circuit (infinite resistance). If you measure no continuity, the heater has burned out and needs replacement.
Should I replace the defrost thermostat and timer at the same time?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and defrost timer/control board work together as a system — the timer (or control board on newer models) initiates the defrost cycle, the thermostat monitors the temperature at the coils and terminates the cycle when the coils are above freezing, and the heater provides the heat that melts the frost. When one component fails, the others have typically experienced similar age and stress, and a near-term failure of another defrost component is common. Since the rear access panel must already be off and the components are right next to each other, replacing all three in a single session prevents a repeat repair down the road.
Should I manually defrost my freezer before installing the new heater?
If there's significant ice buildup on the evaporator coils or rear wall, yes — you need to clear it before installing the new heater. Leave the freezer empty and unplugged with the door open for 12–24 hours (or longer for heavy ice) to let everything thaw naturally. Place towels at the base to catch melt water. Do NOT chip or pry ice off the evaporator coils with any tool — the aluminum fins damage easily and a damaged coil is a far more expensive repair. Once everything is fully thawed and dried, you can proceed with the heater replacement.
My refrigerator/freezer has multiple defrost heater-related part numbers — which one do I need?
Frigidaire/Electrolux uses different defrost heater part numbers across different generations and models. The 5304524953 is specifically used in the Frigidaire Professional 19 cu. ft. single-door FPRU19F8 series refrigerators and FPFU19F8 series upright freezers, plus a smaller set of related Frigidaire-platform models. Before ordering, confirm your refrigerator or freezer's model number is in the compatibility list above, or check your appliance's parts diagram to verify that 5304524953 (or one of its cross-references 5304523833, AP6997296, PS16227227, 4975045) is the correct part for your specific model. If your unit is a side-by-side, French door, or other style, you may need a different defrost heater.
Is this a Genuine OEM or aftermarket part?
This is a Genuine OEM part manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux to factory specifications. It is the exact same defrost heater assembly installed in compatible Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Westinghouse, White-Westinghouse, and Kenmore Frigidaire-built refrigerators and freezers from the factory — guaranteed fit, materials, and performance.
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DA31-00146E Genuine OEM Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor - Compatible with Samsung, Maytag
Product Description
Maintain optimal cooling with the DA31-00146E Genuine OEM Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor. This Samsung-manufactured motor is designed as a replacement for select Samsung and Maytag refrigerators. It powers the fan to circulate air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments, ensuring even temperature distribution and efficient cooling. This part addresses issues like fridge/freezer too warm, frost buildup, unusual noises, or the appliance not shutting off, often caused by a faulty or seized motor.
Note: Includes (1) evaporator fan motor (fan blade not included). Disconnect power before installation. Verify compatibility with your refrigerator model.
Replaces part numbers: DA31-00146E, 1486536, DA31-00146G, DREP3020LA/HAL, PD00002015, AP4136569, PS4138376.
Compatibility:
Compatible with select refrigerator models, including but not limited to:
Samsung: RFG238AABPXAA0000, RS25H5111BC/AA, RS265TDBP/XAA, RS267TDBP/XAA, RH25H5611BC/AA, RH25H5611WW/AA, DFSF9VKBABB, DFSS9VKBASS
Maytag: Various models (verify with model number)
Verify your model number or contact our support team for assistance.
Key Features:
✅ Brand and Models Compatibility: Fits select Samsung and Maytag refrigerators.
🔧 Specifications: Genuine OEM Samsung BLDC fan motor, 3.21W, 12VDC, 2520RPM, 1-1/2" shaft.
💪 Reliable Performance: Circulates air to maintain consistent temperatures and cool evaporator coils.
🛠️ Easy Installation: Requires screwdriver and pliers; typically installed in 30–60 minutes.
🛡️ Effective Fixes: Resolves warm fridge/freezer, frost buildup, noisy operation, or failure to shut off.
Product Specification
Part Number: DA31-00146E
Component Type: Refrigerator evaporator fan motor
Material: Metal and plastic
Electrical Specs: 3.21W, 12VDC, 2520RPM, 1-1/2" shaft
Compliance: UL-listed, Prop 65 warning for California
Installation Notes:
Safety First: Disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before installation.
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